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Introducción

Utiliza esta guía para reemplazar la batería en su Google Pixel. Con el uso diario, una batería típica durará entre 18 y 24 meses antes de perder una capacidad significativa. Si el dispositivo no se carga, no será posible apagarlo o reemplazarlo.

Antes de desmontar el teléfono, descarga la batería por debajo del 25%. Una batería de iones de litio puede incendiarse y / o explotar si se perfora accidentalmente.

Si tu batería está hinchada, no caliente su teléfono. Si es necesario, puede usar una jeringa para inyectar alcohol isopropílico (90%) alrededor de los bordes de la cubierta posterior para debilitar el adhesivo. Las baterías inflamadas pueden ser muy peligrosas, por lo que debes usar protección para los ojos y hacer este proceso con precaución, o llevarlo a un profesional si no estás seguro de cómo proceder.

  1. Apaga el dispositivo
    • Apaga el dispositivo

    • Prepara un iOpener para calentar las esquinas de la pantalla y ablandar el adhesivo de debajo. También puedes usar una pistola de aire caliente o un secador

    • Las superficies cercanas al altavoz y al micrófono (partes superior e inferior respectivamente) tienen secciones con más adhesivo. Estas areas requieren mayor calor. La pantalla debería calentarse hasta que este demasiado caliente para tocarla, durante 2 minutos

    When reassembling, does the adhesive still hold the phone together when closed or do we need to apply more adhesive?

    Jess Haddow - Contestar

    Unfortunately also cracked my display on the way in. You have to go pretty deep under the top and bottom of the screen but BARELY in around the sides, especially the corners. If I had to do it over again, I would have either tried a playing card or put some type of depth limit/mark on my pick so I didn’t go more than a few millimeters in.

    Matthew Jastremski - Contestar

    Use plenty of heat here and take your time. Start from the top, then the sides. use a gentle prying motion with the picks but don’t go too deep.

    Richard Wood - Contestar

    It’s EXTREMELY easy to crack the screen. Just buy a new display module before fixing it. The old screen will be disposable.

    Buyi Yu - Contestar

    Don’t even waste your time with the iOpener. I went straight for the hair dryer and opening picks took 30 mins to get the screen off with no issues.

    eric duchene - Contestar

    If you haven’t purchased this kit yet then stop right here. The difficulty, as stated, is very difficult. This was my first attempted repair. I spent a good hour heating the adhesive and felt good about getting the display off. I even paused to boot the phone to make sure I didn’t damage the screen before flipping it over - it worked fine still! Then I went to pull the display from the top using the picks. Shattered the corner of the screen. $129 for a new screen. At this point, the Pixel 3 is $499. I bought a new phone. Just be prepared to break the screen. Many people mention it in the comments. I felt confident I could do it. I couldn’t.

    Michael Neil - Contestar

    do yourself a favor and purchase a replacement screen when you order a battery. it’s impossible to remove the screen without damaging it no matter how careful you are.

    Andrey Gerasenkov - Contestar

  2. En los siguientes pasos, separarás la pantalla cortando el adhesivo entre la pantalla y el chassis del Pixel Como referencia, la parte posterior del panel de visualización se muestra a la izquierda. Observe el estrecho espacio libre entre el lado de la unidad de pantalla y el panel OLED. Insertar una herramienta mas de 1.5 mm en los lados del dispositivo o 9 mm en la parte superior o inferior pude dañar permanentemente la pantalla
    • En los siguientes pasos, separarás la pantalla cortando el adhesivo entre la pantalla y el chassis del Pixel

    • Como referencia, la parte posterior del panel de visualización se muestra a la izquierda. Observe el estrecho espacio libre entre el lado de la unidad de pantalla y el panel OLED.

    • Insertar una herramienta mas de 1.5 mm en los lados del dispositivo o 9 mm en la parte superior o inferior pude dañar permanentemente la pantalla

  3. Usa una manija de succiónpara levantar la pantalla y crear un pequeño espacio entre la pantalla y el chasis del teléfono. Si tu pantalla está agrietada,   cúbrela con cinta de embalaje para ayudar a que la ventosa se adhiera y evitar que los fragmentos de vidrio se suelten.
    • Usa una manija de succiónpara levantar la pantalla y crear un pequeño espacio entre la pantalla y el chasis del teléfono.

    • Si tu pantalla está agrietada, cúbrela con cinta de embalaje para ayudar a que la ventosa se adhiera y evitar que los fragmentos de vidrio se suelten.

    the glass will have to be extremely hot to do this, i was able to achieve it by setting the phone of the heated bed of a 3d printer and setting it to 110 C .

    alex chargeer - Contestar

  4. Inserta un púa de apertura o una tarjeta de juego en el espacio entre el chasis y el ensamblaje de la pantalla. Comienza a deslizar la púa de apertura alrededor del borde de la pantalla, cortando el adhesivo que lo asegura. La pantalla es frágil. Si planeas reutilizarla, ten cuidado de insertar tu herramienta solo lo necesario para separar el adhesivo. Insertarla demasiado puede dañar el panel OLED debajo del vidrio.
    • Inserta un púa de apertura o una tarjeta de juego en el espacio entre el chasis y el ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    • Comienza a deslizar la púa de apertura alrededor del borde de la pantalla, cortando el adhesivo que lo asegura.

    • La pantalla es frágil. Si planeas reutilizarla, ten cuidado de insertar tu herramienta solo lo necesario para separar el adhesivo. Insertarla demasiado puede dañar el panel OLED debajo del vidrio.

    I needed a stronger tool than the provided guitar picks to actually get between the glass and the frame. Had to use a metal tool to get in there. Once I could get in, things went fairly smoothly.

    Only mistake after that was not getting a great seal on the glue when reassembling the phone so now the glass toward the bottom of the screen doesn’t completely stay in place. :(

    Steve Johnson - Contestar

    Dang! Metal is a scary choice, but I’m glad it worked out for the most part. That’s good to know. You could try re-heating the adhesive around the part of the screen that isn’t staying in place, and then putting the phone under a stack of books for an hour or so! That might get it to seal up completely.

    Taylor Dixon -

    I got the glass free by using plenty of heat, an x-acto knife to start the opening and playing cards under the glass to break the glue. I did not use the suction cup because it kept feeling like it would break the glass.

    Michael Hendricks - Contestar

    +1 to Michael Hendricks. I ended up putting mine in my toaster oven (which worked splendidly), and I did have to use an x-acto knife to get it started. After that, it was possible to continue using the picks, but DON’T EXPECT TO BE ABLE TO REUSE THE SAME DISPLAY. New displays are $35 on ebay. Just get a new one before you start the work or you’ll almost certainly be without a phone for a week.

    Kael Shipman - Contestar

    I was super careful based on all the comments to not even get close to touching the back of the screen. But when reassembled I get nothing but a vibration when turning the phone on.

    I used the suction cup, lotsa heat, started from the top and pried screen off towards the bottom just barely teasing the edges with a special pick that I had from previous battery replacements (special pick limits penetration). It seemed to come off unscathed. But the results say otherwise.

    GUNTIS CIRCENIS - Contestar

    Woof, like others have said, it’s incredibly easy to ruin the screen in this process. Kind of impossible to tell if you’re getting the adhesive or the screen with your tools.

    Definitely have a replacement if you really want to have a working phone after this step.

    Kris - Contestar

    I agree with what other have stated. I tried both the iOpener and a hair dryer but was never able to get the suction cup to pull the glass up at all. I saw other instructions that use a “Thin Metal Pry Tool” to get under the glass. I improvised with some very thin metal I found from some parts I have available and that is able to get under even without heating. You don’t use the metal to pry open at all, just to get under the glass enough to get some thin cards under to remove the seal. The picks are too thick for any of these steps it seems. Just sliding the picks under the glass as shown seemed to be enough bending that I saw some hairline cracks in the glass. But I also damaged the OLED in the process. So, as others have reported, I too ended up with a dead screen. Waiting for my new one to arrive soon.

    I think it would be good to show more information about how you expect this step to work as it doesn’t seem to work as shown here. Or, look up some of the other resources online that work better.

    William Buerger - Contestar

  5. Continúa cuidadosamente separando el adhesivo del dispositivo. Ten especial cuidado con los biseles laterales, que tienen solo 1.5 mm de profundidad. Ten especial cuidado con los biseles laterales, que tienen solo 1.5 mm de profundidad.
    • Continúa cuidadosamente separando el adhesivo del dispositivo.

    • Ten especial cuidado con los biseles laterales, que tienen solo 1.5 mm de profundidad.

    there should be two notes here - “while adhesive is still warm, REMOVE ALL OF IT or you would be fcked later.” additionally, “ensure you are not separating the OLED from the glass as this will somehow render the screen completely useless”

    Liz Zelnick - Contestar

    Agreed. I just removed the glass from the OLED display…oopss. I’m hosed.

    Joshua Brown - Contestar

    Removing the adhesive while it is warm is a great idea!

    Re: removing the glass from the OLED, as long as you aren’t inserting your opening pick deeper than Step 2 recommends, you should be safe from separating the glass and the display panel unless you are using a ton of heat, in which case you might be frying the display anyway!

    Taylor Dixon - Contestar

    I didn’t apply enough heat during this process and subsequently separated the digitizer from the glass, instead of the whole assembly from the case. I had 3/4 of the screen free from the case when I became impatient and just tried to muscle my way through the rest of the adhesive. It is important to stop and apply more heat during this process any time it starts feeling difficult to move the pick through the adhesive, otherwise you risk breaking the screen and having to get a whole new one.

    Britton Wickes - Contestar

    I got the glass off without cracking anything, but now that it’s back together it doesn’t seem to work. Could it have been damaged from the heat? It flickers green for an instant when plugging in to power or pressing the power button.

    Nicholas Cox - Contestar

    Any recommendations on adhesive when reinstalling? I see there is a pre-made adhesive for sale here for $5.99. Don’t know if 3m double-sided tape would work just as well, or what thickness to use. Any tips would be much appreciated.

    Phillip - Contestar

    Hey Phillip! I’d go with the pre-made adhesive to save yourself the headache of measurement, cutting, and having a whole roll of 3M tape you might not need. It would definitely work if that’s what you prefer though!

    Here’s a guide for applying the pre-made adhesive that you can follow, or just curb from if you use the 3M tape! Google Pixel Display Adhesive Installation

    Taylor Dixon - Contestar

  6. Con el corte adhesivo, levanta lentamente la pantalla desde la parte superior (el lado con el recorte de la rejilla del altavoz), gírala cuidadosamente verticalmente hacia la parte inferior del dispositivo y colócala sobre su cara, como se muestra. No intentes quitar completamente la pantalla todavía, ya que todavía está conectada por un cable plano frágil. Ten cuidado de no tensar el cable mientras colocas la pantalla. No intentes quitar completamente la pantalla todavía, ya que todavía está conectada por un cable plano frágil. Ten cuidado de no tensar el cable mientras colocas la pantalla.
    • Con el corte adhesivo, levanta lentamente la pantalla desde la parte superior (el lado con el recorte de la rejilla del altavoz), gírala cuidadosamente verticalmente hacia la parte inferior del dispositivo y colócala sobre su cara, como se muestra.

    • No intentes quitar completamente la pantalla todavía, ya que todavía está conectada por un cable plano frágil. Ten cuidado de no tensar el cable mientras colocas la pantalla.

    Ruined my Pixel following these instructions. Ribbon cable is at bottom (chin) of phone and not as shown in pictures. My advice take it somewhere and have them replace the battery, that way when they break it it’s their fault.

    John Simpson - Contestar

    I’m sorry the instructions weren’t clear, John! I’ve updated the guide to better illustrate where ribbon cable is and how to work around it.

    Taylor Dixon -

    And another note - I used the suction cup to lift the glass. Unfortunately the glass cracked at that point…bummer. I would update this to describe HOW to lift the glass. As in, LIGHTLY lift up with the suction cup while mostly lifting up on the guitar picks to help separate..

    Joshua Brown - Contestar

    DO NOT “flip it over vertically toward the bottom of the device, and rest it on its face, as shown. “ unless you want to spend your day getting adhesive off the screen. Instead get the screw driver ready (step 7) before you start this step.

    eric duchene - Contestar

  7. Usa un destornillador Torx T5 para quitar los dos tornillos negros T5 de 3.5 mm que sujetan el soporte del conector del cable de la pantalla.
    • Usa un destornillador Torx T5 para quitar los dos tornillos negros T5 de 3.5 mm que sujetan el soporte del conector del cable de la pantalla.

  8. Kits de Reparación de Android

    Estás a un kit de tu nueva pantalla o batería.

    Comprar Ahora

    Kits de Reparación de Android

    Estás a un kit de tu nueva pantalla o batería.

    Comprar Ahora
  9. Usa pinzas para quitar el soporte que sostiene el conector de la pantalla en su lugar.
    • Usa pinzas para quitar el soporte que sostiene el conector de la pantalla en su lugar.

    Using extreme care, another broken screen here. Instead of coming off together, the adhesive separated between the outer glass and the digitizer panel/screen. Both were damaged in the process. Waste of time and money.

    Chris Kahn - Contestar

    Yes, me too. I’d like advice as to how to vary the glue heating process for this to not occur. Does the heat need to be applied for longer so the deeper OLED panel releases without pulling from the glass?

    Joshua Brown - Contestar

  10. Usa un spudger para levantar el conector del cable de la pantalla, liberando la pantalla.

    (from other ifixit tutorial. Did not know this-and it is important!)

    To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    bgwong2476 - Contestar

  11. Quita la pantalla
  12. Usa un destornillador Torx T5 para remover los nueve tornillos de 3.5 que aseguran el marco medio.
    • Usa un destornillador Torx T5 para remover los nueve tornillos de 3.5 que aseguran el marco medio.

  13. El marco medio está retenido herméticamente en su lugar por cinco clips. Para liberar esos clips, aplica presión internamente con una herramienta de apertura como se muestra en los pasos de abajo.
    • El marco medio está retenido herméticamente en su lugar por cinco clips. Para liberar esos clips, aplica presión internamente con una herramienta de apertura como se muestra en los pasos de abajo.

    There’s also a clip at the top center (near the camera/ earpiece).

    When reassembling, snap the top clip in before you snap the sides. If you do the sides first, then you can’t snap the top in and will need to disassemble and try again.

    Mark Clementi - Contestar

    On the reassembly step, make sure that the little black wire on the right hand side of the phone is tucked away really well. It can prevent the clip on the bottom right from snapping into place.

    Casey Thimm - Contestar

    To add to Casey’s comment, the black wire needs to be routed along the gap between the battery and the back/left-hand edge of the rear casing.

    Roman Iwanczuk - Contestar

    I would keep a flat razor or an exact-o knife on hand when releasing the midframe from the clips. The tool provided by ifixit does not work well. Even the blue picks would work better.

    Ben Eisenberg - Contestar

  14. Introduce una púa de apertura dentro de la muesca que está localizada en el borde inferior derecho del teléfono.
    • Introduce una púa de apertura dentro de la muesca que está localizada en el borde inferior derecho del teléfono.

  15. Desliza la púa de apertura hacia arriba en ambos lados del dispositivo en el espacio pequeño entre el marco medio y la carcasa posterior para liberar los clips que lo mantienen en su lugar. Fíjate que los clips no se liberan deslizando a través de ellos, sino más bien lo hace la presión interna que crea la púa de apertura cuando entra en el espacio alrededor de ellos. Si los cierres fallan en salir, intenta presionar el borde que en que estás trabajando internamente con tu mano, o usando una herramienta más gruesa como un spudger.
    • Desliza la púa de apertura hacia arriba en ambos lados del dispositivo en el espacio pequeño entre el marco medio y la carcasa posterior para liberar los clips que lo mantienen en su lugar.

    • Fíjate que los clips no se liberan deslizando a través de ellos, sino más bien lo hace la presión interna que crea la púa de apertura cuando entra en el espacio alrededor de ellos.

    • Si los cierres fallan en salir, intenta presionar el borde que en que estás trabajando internamente con tu mano, o usando una herramienta más gruesa como un spudger.

    • ¡No intentes remover el marco medio aún! Hay un frágil cable de cinta debajo que conecta el auricular a la placa base.

    when removing the mid frame i damaged a ribbon cable at the bottom left. will that prevent my phone from turning on?

    Bryce Thoreson - Contestar

    I had no luck using the spudger (too blunt) or the opening picks (too weak). I used a straight blade as shown at about 2:35 in this video:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_conti...

    Todd Koenig - Contestar

  16. Usa un spudger para levantar el conector del cable del auricular hacia arriba, desconectándolo de la placa base. Remueve el marco medio del dispositivo.
    • Usa un spudger para levantar el conector del cable del auricular hacia arriba, desconectándolo de la placa base.

    • Remueve el marco medio del dispositivo.

    • Durante el rearmado, vuelve a enganchar el cable del auricular e inserta el lado superior del marco medio antes de poner los clips en su lugar.

    Rather than remove the midframe, I just propped it up a bit more than 90 degrees from the phone onto a box, just so there’d be one less of these fumbly connectors to redo during reassembly.

    James Ludden - Contestar

  17. Use un spudger para desconectar el cable plano de la batería de la placa base.
    • Use un spudger para desconectar el cable plano de la batería de la placa base.

  18. Con unas pinzas, despega la tira plateada que corre a lo largo de la batería para dejar al descubierto el conector que se encuentra debajo. Con unas pinzas, despega la tira plateada que corre a lo largo de la batería para dejar al descubierto el conector que se encuentra debajo.
    • Con unas pinzas, despega la tira plateada que corre a lo largo de la batería para dejar al descubierto el conector que se encuentra debajo.

  19. Usa un spudger para desconectar el cable plano del puerto de carga de la placa madre. Usa un spudger para desconectar el cable plano del puerto de carga de la placa madre. Usa un spudger para desconectar el cable plano del puerto de carga de la placa madre.
    • Usa un spudger para desconectar el cable plano del puerto de carga de la placa madre.

    This step can be skipped entirety. Don’t do more work than you have too. just be careful not to bend the cable.

    eric duchene - Contestar

  20. Acuna un spudger debajo de la batería para quitarlo del dispositivo. Haz todo lo posible para no deformar la batería durante este proceso. Las baterías de iones de litio de cubierta blanda pueden derramar sustancias químicas peligrosas, incendiarse o incluso explotar si están dañadas. No uses fuerza excesiva ni hagas palanca en la batería con herramientas metálicas.
    • Acuna un spudger debajo de la batería para quitarlo del dispositivo.

    • Haz todo lo posible para no deformar la batería durante este proceso. Las baterías de iones de litio de cubierta blanda pueden derramar sustancias químicas peligrosas, incendiarse o incluso explotar si están dañadas. No uses fuerza excesiva ni hagas palanca en la batería con herramientas metálicas.

    Don’t mess around here. Use the hair dryer, on the back of the phone for 30 seconds. Battery came out in seconds.

    eric duchene - Contestar

    be careful of the black antenna wire on the bottom and right side of the battery, i nearly ripped mine out while prying the battery out, i also recommend routing the cable slightly under the battery so it stays in place, this got me stuck trying to get the midframe to fit for almost half an hour.

    alex chargeer - Contestar

  21. Quita la bateria.
    • Quita la bateria.

    • Para instalar la nueva batería:

    • Retira el adhesivo restante del teléfono y limpie las áreas que tengan pegamento con alcohol isopropílico y un paño sin pelusa.

    • Asegura la nueva batería con adhesivo precortado o cinta adhesiva de doble cara. Aplica el nuevo adhesivo al teléfono, no directamente a la batería.

    • Presiona la nueva batería firmemente en su lugar durante 5-10 segundos.

    When wiping adhesive off the midframe, be careful not to get any alcohol on the foam with the little “X”s all over it. The alcohol will dissolve the foam.

    Casey Thimm - Contestar

Conclusión

Compara tu nueva pieza de repuesto con la pieza original, ya que es posible que tengas que transferir los componentes restantes o eliminar los soportes adhesivos de la nueva pieza antes de instalarla.

Para volver a montar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos anteriores en orden inverso.

Después de completar esta guía, calibrar la batería recién instalada.

Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje certificado.

¿La reparación no salió según lo planeado? Consulta nuestra comunidad de respuestas para obtener ayuda para la resolución de problemas.

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Taylor Dixon

Miembro Desde 26/06/18

20,459 Reputación

72 Guías creadas

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I doubt many people can get past step 1 without it being game over. Take special care, read the comments, and other guides as well.

Benjamin Knight - Contestar

I broke mine too. Not the glass but the display panel underneath.

For those who are going to try opening theirs: pay extreme attention to the fact that the display panel extends somewhat beyond the bottom edge of the visible part of the display where the cable connects and, if that wasn’t bad enough, the bottom bezel has a !&&* of a lot adhesive on it. Don’t insert plastic opening tools on the bottom corners - if you do that, you will damage one of the unprotected corners of the panel like I did. If I had to do that again, I’d probably start from the top edge instead.

The new screen ended up costing me the equivalent of $80, and I was surprised I was able to walk into a store and buy one at all in a country where Pixel was never officially available in the first place. They didn’t have white ones in stock so I went with a black one.

Gregory Klyushnikov -

Same. Even when being warned and trying to be super careful.

Joshua Campbell -

Another trashed screen. This phone is a difficult one if you have not done one before. I would recommend not even bothering with prying under the sides and just concentrate on the top and bottom. The edges only allow about 2mm at most before you run into the LCD.

Tyler -

+1. Don’t bother trying to save the screen. Just save yourself the stress and buy a new screen on ebay for $35 before you begin. I have never botched a repair and I still managed to break my display on this. Yes, I was super careful, it took me like 45 minutes to finally get the display loose, and when I put it all back together, the display was totally dead.

Kael Shipman -

At today’s pricing just buy a new screen and be done with it.

Jon -

Success! I was able to replace the battery in my pixel although it took much longer than expected. I highly recommend using a playing card (or several) to cut through the adhesive as it can fairly easily bend around the fragile components. Patience is needed as it took me nearly an hour to get the screen off, reheating, gently prying and cutting with the card. Once past the screen it was fairly straightforward despite the pre cut adhesive being too long. The adhesive comes back into play during the reassembly prep as it took at least half an hour to remove the old adhesive and prep for the new. Be aware that the foam on the mid frame is alcohol soluble and will dissolve on contact. The new adhesive for the screen took some gentle massaging to line up but ultimately went on without much fight. All back together, it works (hopefully with renewed battery life). I would say allocate at least 2 hours unless you’ve done it before.

josh9623 - Contestar

This took me about 2 hours. I was very, very careful, and it was a success! No broken screen.

jlteekell - Contestar

Worked like a charm! Don’t expect to breeze through this in 30 minutes though. I used a hair dryer rather than the I-opener and was able to easily pry the screen up from the bottom of the phone using the blue opening tool and the suction cup. From there I used the picks to completely release the adhesive from the bottom and the top of the screen. Once the top and bottom were loose I used a playing card to loosen the sides and the screen came right off. For step 14 the picks were too flexible to loosen the clips on the midframe but the spudger did the trick. Requires a bit a patience but it’s not nearly as scary as the comments make it seem. Great product

Anthony - Contestar

Took me 3 hours but I was successful. Be careful. Watch a couple of YouTube videos and read the instructions front to back twice before you get started.

Adhesive is !&&* and getting started is challenging. Use a playing card and a heat gun to release the adhesive. I started in the top right corner of the device, used the included replacement adhesive as your guide.

I used the included suction cup, heat gun and an xacto knife to catch that first gap on the corner. Use the included picks to hold the gaps as you work your way around. Pull the playing card through the top and bottom gently, the adhesive will stick to the card.

Take care on the long sides, the edge of the screen is VERY narrow, make a mark along the edge of the card at 1mm. Don’t pry, just slide. Use the heat gun constantly, get the screen hot to the touch.

Once I reassembled the phone the microphone didn’t work. I popped it open again and reattached the ribbon cable on the daughter board. Microphone works now — but it gave me a good scare.

Philip Van Drunen - Contestar

While this was definitely a difficult repair, I think that the guide is very thorough. I did this repair in about 3 and a half hours with 4 other friends all working together. We were very careful and cut very shallowly through the adhesive to ensure the safety of the display ribbon. We did however use a video guide to fill in a few of the small gaps not shown in the images here. In the end, everything worked out well, so I would definitely recommend this guide to fix your Pixel battery, as long as you have some help and a lot of time.

Afana Craft - Contestar

Broke the display trying to remove it, even after using a heat gun the display was hard to remove. Was successful with replacing the battery. The display I ordered to replace the the broken display I also broke trying to fit into the frame, but It did work for a short time. Have ordered another display and adhesive - have a better idea what to do.

Dale Slaughter - Contestar

Success! Used the iFixit heat pad

Took ~3 hours.

Patience working through getting the display unstuck is key I think.

Removing the glue before putting in the new one was a massive nuisance, unlike the photos the glue doesn’t simply peel off, every single pit had to be coaxed off with the spudger. The most effective technique seemed to be kind of pushing it from the edges with the tip of the spudger.

Paul Buxton - Contestar

Thanks for the guide. Did this in ~2 hours without breaking my screen (murphy’s law: I ordered a replacement screen to have on standby just in case). PATIENCE was the key word here. Used a heat gun, a heavy-duty suction cup, a guitar pick to maintain the initial gap, and then a playing card to gently cut the glue.

Just focus on the top and bottom of the screen - don’t even fool with the sides, unless you want a broken screen. Once you have the top (or bottom) carefully unseated/unglued, peel the screen back using the suction cup - this will take care of the sides - and then just focus on the other end.

Good luck

Derek - Contestar

I replaced the battery and charge port. Phone boots up but no display on the lcd so I guess I broke it. But I see no visible damage at all on the back or front of the screen and the digitizer senses touches. Ordered another screen. Hoping I didn’t break something else in the process or else could be a pain trying to diagnose it. Btw anyone know how to power off the phone without use of the lcd? Holding power button only reboots.

Vince - Contestar

Dang it, that’s a bummer. Even if the screen shows no damage, it’s possible that your opening pick went in just a little too far and messed up the display. That said, it’s also possible you could have a different problem! It sounds like you were really careful with the screen, so it could be that your display cable connector just didn’t fully snap into place, or it may have gotten some gunk on it that is interfering with the connection. Hopefully the new display works.

Without the display you can hold the power button + volume down to restart the phone, but I’m not sure there is a way to shut it down. You can always just disconnect the battery, if the phone is still semi-open!

Taylor Dixon -

i did the same - battery works fine and i can hear the phone boot; roommate did a test call and the phone works, but the screen is toast. i ordered a new screen, plugged it in (without attaching the adhesive!) and nada. idk what else to try

Liz Zelnick -

If a new display is still malfunctioning and you’re sure the display cable is properly seated, I’d say something probably short circuited during the repair. It’s hard be certain what happened, but a short circuits tend to happen when cables are unplugged while the phone is powered on. At this point a new motherboard will most likely take care of the issue. (Google Pixel G-2PW4100 Motherboard) I’m sorry things didn’t go well for you both, and I hope you can get everything working soon!

Taylor Dixon -

Vince - Way late but just attempted this and while I think the only issue is the display, I would like to verify it is before opening a $140 part that can’t be returned (Thx, iFixit)— Did the new display solve the problem?

I believe a soft reset can be done by just holding power button 20 s, but release immediately otherwise you’ll start it back up. I did this a few times and felt the vibration upon startup.

Robert Smithlin -

The new display worked like a charm. $140 sounds really steep for a pixel 5.0. Display. I got this one from eBay and it worked just fine. Still working months later. There are other sellers on eBay with comparable pricing.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=...

Vince -

This guide was great. The new battery makes me think my phone is brand new with the longevity it has now. I can echo the warning about getting the screen off. I bought the whole ifixit kit for this procedure and my only recommendation is that you use the warmer on both sides before you start to pry off the screen. It is extremely delicate and that cannot be understated. I ended up having to purchase a replacement screen and then dig out all the shards of glass before replacing the battery.

For those who are scared of this procedure, getting the glass off is the hardest part, the rest is easy.

Andrew Gordon - Contestar

Important to start the screen carefully. The sides are least sticky but the most difficult. This is because there is 1.9mm of space between edge of glass and the OLED display under the glass. If you keep your pry tool at 30° you will miss the Display. Once you have the screen off the hard part is behind you. Keep this guide close by. Watch videos and don't hurry. Good luck!

Donald Droga - Contestar

Excellent guide. Performed a successful replacement without damaging my screen and so far everything seems to work fine.

-Removal of the screen wasn’t as hard as they made it out to be, just gotta be careful.

-Removal of all old adhesive was more difficult

-It was difficult to keep the front camera lens cover clean during adhesive removal . Removal of the old adhesive was the most time consuming part of my battery replacement

-the thin wire that runs down the battery side of the bottom part of the phone got in the way of clipping in the middle frame. I noticed when I was removing the glue that it kinda “bulged” up on the side between the screws. I removed the middle frame again and I had to shift the battery over a millimeter or so in order to place the wire down out of the way.

-Also I have no idea how it was missed in the first place but one of the 9 screws in my middle frame was already loose! Screw # 4 if you count Left to Right, top to bottom in step #11

Henry Scharf - Contestar

apparently I screwed something up and missed more “tests” before I placed the screen on the device. 1: It won’t charge. 2: Vibration motor wasn’t working 3: speaker isn’t working. Now the phone is completely dead and I’m waiting on more screen adhesive before I take it apart again.

Henry Scharf -

Check your connection to the charging port module. My guess is that it wasn't plugged back in correctly. Otherwise get one of these. Very easy to replace once the phone is opened up. I had to change mine out because the port wouldn't charge. Mic, speaker,motor and charge port are in this module.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Google-Pixel-5-...

Vince -

Henry, that is a bummer! Vince is right, there’s probably something going on with your daughterboard. Make sure the long interconnect cable (the one you remove in step 18) is properly connected, and if all else fails, the replacement part he linked (sorry, ours is out of stock :( ) should do the trick!

Taylor Dixon -

Read all of the instructions thoroughly, read all of the comments, watch some videos, TAKE YOUR TIME. Its a great kit but I used a heat gun and it took me 3 hours start to finish. You’ll definitely want to start from the top when removing the glass. Wedge a few guitar picks in there, hit it with the heat again, and keep gently working that glass off.

Richard Wood - Contestar

My screen broke while removal, but no issues aside from that. No fault of the review, just be very careful if you are hoping to reuse the screen. They’re cheap on Amazon, just plan on breaking it unless you’re a pro.

My only recommendation regarding the directions is to really heat the screen up. I progressively heated it hotter and hotter and found that the adhesive really loosened up when an IR thermometer showed the screen to be ~190 F, which is in my opinion a higher than the guides recommended ‘slightly too hot to touch’.

Also, be careful to not get alcohol on the foam under screen liner - it will badly melt it and will make your screen sit wavy.

I found better luck with a wide, flat razor blade to make the initial gap. Be sure to go in at an angle rather than straight down, I went too far down and bent the mid-frame a little bit. A wide blade won’t scratch up the phone frame. But at this point my screen was already broken so take that for what it’s worth.

Jackson Schleich - Contestar

Hopefully this will help prevent others from accidentally breaking their screens. This back to back to show what you are dealing with in terms of dimensions. I would pay particular attention to the bottom of the screen where the lcd angles in and extends about a 1/8” beyond the what you are able to see from the front. I think this is where I may have damaged mine. I did not see any physical damage on mine but it definitely doesn’t power on.

https://imgur.com/wR4HUo6

Vince - Contestar

Just finished replacing the battery and it wasn’t too bad. Read the comments about other peoples’ mistakes, watch some Youtube videos, take your time, and you’ll be fine. If you’re not good at these things or very nervous, then just buy an extra screen to have on hand and return it if you end up not needing it.

Mark Clementi - Contestar

Just in the process of replacing battery…The prying part wasn’t so hard as I’ve imagined…took ~15 mins, and here is a photo of the back of the screen. https://i.imgur.com/W0C2JHl.jpg .See the red rectangle? I might have ‘damaged’ something so be really careful dealing with the lower half of the frame. I’ve re-powered on and display & touch are both good.

pizzamx - Contestar

Took me another ~30 mins to remove the midframe…AFAIC this part is more tricky then removing the screen…just remember to follow the instructions - i.e. apply inward pressure.

pizzamx -

I’m screwed. Screen doesn’t work after replacing the battery. No sure what went wrong…placing order for a replacement screen now :(

pizzamx -

does the phone power on when you hold the power button? ie, does the phone have that short vibration during boot? if not, maybe something isn’t plugged in correctly? if it does vibrate, then yeah, the screen went poop. the latter is what happened to me (it vibrated but and booted up but the screen never lit up) so i replaced the screen and all good (after $40).

Vince -

Hi Vince, unfortunately my phone did boot up, I felt the vibration and it rang when receiving incoming calls…After comparing it with the new replacement I think it was the display cable connector pins that I accidentally broke while plugging the cable. See https://imgur.com/a/SuItoIN and the two panels side by side: https://imgur.com/a/mL6UjGh . If you can see it clearly it might well be the top-right part of the pins that’ve gone missing…It’s really disaster…I’m just over-confident with myself :D Hope this post will help whoever doing this in the future and be reminded that anything can be broken.

pizzamx - Contestar

I followed this procedure to replace the power button. Everything seemed to go well, though I may have gone to far in on the bottom (I went basically until the white border turns to display).

When I press the power button, the screen flickers green for an instant. When I first plugged it into my computer, it recognized it as a Pixel, but did not pop up using “fastboot devices”. Now, it isn’t recognized at all by the computer, sometimes saying “the usb device you plugged in has malfunctioned…”.

If I hold the power button for 25-30 seconds, I get the vibration like the phone is powering on, but nothing on screen and still not recognized using fastboot.

Any ideas? Did I short something on the motherboard? There’s a fair chance I accidentally powered the phone on before plugging everything back in as I was testing the power button to make sure it was seated correctly.

Anyway, thanks for this write up and any help ya’ll can offer!

Nicholas Cox - Contestar

Nicholas, I’m sorry things didn’t work out! Yours certainly seems like a strange case. I’m going to optimistically guess that your problem is confined to the screen, and hope your computer isn’t recognizing it because of its own problems (you can never trust windows drivers too much haha). I think if I were you I would try a replacement screen, and then if that doesn’t work you can pick up a new motherboard. Hopefully only one of those two parts are the root of your problem. If you do only end up needing one of them, you can return the other! Sorry again about the complications, I hope you can get it worked out! Let us know how it goes!

Taylor Dixon -

Some of my notes:

1. Getting the phone open ( Steps 1-4 ) is the hardest part of this process.

Use a very thin blade or flat head. Must be real thin so you can make that gap.

Start at the top. You are going to create a chip in the frame regardless.

Use the tool opener to slide back and forth to cut the adhesive.

Take the time to heat the edges ( i used a hair dryer ) to soften the glue

2. With Step 12, I used a flat head to open.

Start from the bottom, where you have a small gap to pry up.

Run the flat head along and press the frame outward while lifting the mid section

The clip will naturally fall out and the mid section flip up.

3. Keep the mid section seperate and clean the adhesive. I used my fingernail.

With the LED screen part, be carefui not to touch the LED part too much or scratch too hard on the glass.

It does not have to be 100% clean, just smooth enough.

P.S. My LED screen came out perfect and only damaged on the glass part ( chipped paint work ) You can’t see it when fully assembled. :)

Good luck.

sadfad53 - Contestar

Another success here! This repair was a lot less scary than I read it to be. I spent a LOT of time on the top and bottom of the screen adhesive, and essentially didn’t even mess with the thin sides. Once I got the top free and heated the screen enough, the sides just peeled up with the rest of the screen. Taking the old adhesive off was the most time consuming part, as many people here have noted.

Christopher Guzy - Contestar

I read some of the above comments and figured that I would probably break the screen, so I ordered one in addition to the battery. Went through all the steps, put the phone together and booted it up. As it came up I was thinking I got ripped off because my new screen was all scratched up. Then I saw the new screen sitting there in the bag on the table—I had put back my original screen, which obviously works just fine. I’m ordering a new adhesive kit (cheap) and I’ll put the new screen on. The tool kit made the job much easier, battery life is excellent.

Michael Ciarochi - Contestar

Chiming in to say I just completed this repair and while the phone turns on normally, my screen is dead (not even a green flicker like one user mentioned). I have the new display on order— does anyone have a good way to be absolutely sure there isn’t some other issue with reassembly? I would hate to open up $135 display only to find it’s not my display after all…

Aside from this issue that I fully admit I knew was a risk because of all the great comments, this guide is very well done. I do have a few suggestions for little traps I found, like the black and white wire around the battery that I nearly pinched after reassembling the mid-board. Very glad I noticed it wasn’t sitting quite even, and found that the wire had been pushed to the side in the way of the support area.

Robert Smithlin - Contestar

OK this was my very first phone repair. In the first few steps of removing the screen I used the I-Opener and the pick method on the two ends with the most adhesive and once those were loosened used the “Jimmy” tool to get the thinner sides loose. I had low hopes of the screen working after this repair, but miraculously mine works on power up. 9 screws and 5 clips to hold in the mid frame, OMG is that overkill or what . Needless to say getting those darn clips back in was my biggest snafu. I was getting frustrated with it so I put it down and walked away for the day. Today they popped right in, go figure.

My completion of the 20 step breakdown took almost 45 minutes though, but when you add in the tutorial for cleaning/applying the new screen adhesive the total time is about right.

I bought the kit from Ifixit with everything I needed a good bit ago (doesn’t seem to be for sale anymore), except the screen, which as it turns out I didn’t need.

Confidence and tools to tackle another phone repair soon

colinbetzel - Contestar

You chose a really difficult guide for your first repair. Nice job getting it done!

Arthur Shi -

Just wanted to add to the “Success!” side of this repair, as my wife (who is very handy) was able to bang through this without too much difficulty (SO proud of her, I certainly couldn’t do it!), and she’s never repaired a phone before. Honestly, if we had looked at the “difficult” rating, we may not have picked it up, so I’m kind of glad we didn’t!

There is a LOT of adhesive, but she was able to leverage the screen off without a scratch. That was definitely the most difficult part, everything after that was pretty easy with the guide available.

I would definitely recommend taking your time with the display, and concentrate your heating to the top and bottom (the sides are pretty thin with adhesive), but otherwise, give it a shot!!

Jason Greenwood - Contestar

I successfully replaced the battery and the ear piece cover, without breaking my original screen. This was my first smartphone disassembly so it CAN be done if you're careful. Kudos to the instructions author as well as JerryRigEverything's teardown on YouTube!

Side note: Forego the iOpener and use a hairdryer instead. It's way better.

Tim Oakes - Contestar

You WILL break the screen. Nearly impossible not to do so. I was extremely careful and the display is completely dead. Good Luck

Philip Holyoak - Contestar

I used a heat gun instead of the headed bag thing. Took my time and slowly got the adhesive soft enough to get a suction cup to start raising the screen off. I went very, very slowly about all of this and was lucky enough to keep the screen fully intact and functional. There’s an awful lot of adhesive, and I’ll repeat others in saying not to let the screen fool you. The actual piece of screen extends lower than the visible area, which could get you in trouble.

James Ludden - Contestar

SUCCESS! (3 hours) - No scratches or damage. My first time disassembling a phone, but I’ve taken apart laptops.

- Skip the pad thing and use a hair dryer. Needs a lot of heat, like every 30 secs

- Start from the top, and use playing cards to get the adhesive out. I used the suction cup and a lot of heat to get a card in at the middle. Be very careful at the start. Adhesive will stick to the card as you work it through. Pull out the adhesive where you can. Don’t intrude into the screen area

- Only go 1mm in on the sides

- For the bottom: Use the black ribbon that runs through the back and sides of phone as a guide. Don’t go above the ribbon. You can use a card from the sides to get a start on a corner, or use a similar suction cup technique to get a card in. Use lots of heat, and take it slow, and you’ll be fine. Watch a few videos to get an idea of techniques.

Brian Jolie - Contestar

This is my first time taking apart a phone and I managed to swap the battery without too much trouble. I absolutely destroyed the screen unintentionally, but luckily I had a spare. My only issue now is that there is a little red light in the ear piece that is flashing. Google searches have told me to let the battery charge for 30 mins because it could be fully discharged. It has been an hour now and it is still flashing and unresponsive. Any ideas?

Jonny Weiss - Contestar

Jonny, that is a new one! Did you already seal up the phone? If not, I’d go back and check your work—unseat and reseat any connectors you touched, etc. If everything looks good on the inside, you can try booting to recovery mode (by holding the power+volume down buttons) or using a different charger. There is also always the possibility that you got a bad battery! If you purchased the battery from us and you can’t get it working, you can reach out to our customer service team and they can work something out with you.

Taylor Dixon -

No, fortunately I had enough foresight to not screw everything together and readhesive it. I just went back and reseated all of the connectors with no luck. Still same red flashing. Unfortunately I got this battery from someone in person and I’m not sure where they ordered it from. I wish could call them or message them…but all that info is on my phone haha. Thanks Taylor!

Jonny Weiss -

Great guide, used this to replace my battery successfully.

A note that would’ve saved me a lot of time: if you try to test your phone without fully reassembling it, be aware that the earpiece won’t work without being fully pressed down or screwed down. Also, if your digitizer stops working, it might not be the hardware - try turning the phone on and off (NOT rebooting, didn’t help in my case).

Kuhout - Contestar

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