Introducción
La mayoría de los aparatos electrónicos contienen un conjunto vertiginoso de conectores de cable de alimentación y de datos. Nada detiene un proyecto como romper accidentalmente un conector.
Usa esta guía para familiarizarte con los tipos de conectores más comunes y aprende sobre las herramientas y las técnicas que necesitarás para poder desconectarlos y conectarlos de forma segura.
Qué necesitas
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Para desconectar el cable, use un spudger, una herramienta de apertura o una uña limpia para levantar la solapa de bloqueo—esta es la posición desbloqueada.
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Una vez que la solapa esté en la posición desbloqueada, usa unas pinzas o los dedos para sacar suavemente el cable de su zócalo.
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Simplemente extrae estos cables planos "sin complicaciones" de su enchufe para desconectarlos.
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Usa un spudger para empujar suavemente hacia arriba los lados alternos de la pestaña de plástico hasta que encaje en su posición desbloqueada.
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Una vez que la pestaña esté desbloqueada, puedes tirar suavemente del cable para sacarlo de su zócalo.
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Hay muchos otros tipos de conectores de cable plano que pueden requerir que mezcle y combine métodos de desconexión. Algunas consolas de juegos Xbox tienen cables planos con una sección que rodea el conector y tienen una pestaña de bloqueo.
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Para desconectar este conector, usa un spudger o una uña limpia para levantar la pestaña en forma de bucle y separarla del conector.
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Luego, utiliza la punta del spudger para alejar la pestaña de bloqueo de plástico del casquillo; solo debe moverse entre 1 y 2 mm.
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Ahora puedes sacar el cable de su enchufe.
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Inserta completamente el cable en su zócalo debajo de la pestaña de bloqueo.
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Pasa la pestaña alrededor de la parte frontal del conector.
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Utiliza un spudger o una uña limpia para empujar la pestaña de bloqueo y asegurar el cable.
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Para desconectar conectores planos como este, usa una herramienta para levantar cada lado. Luego, levanta el conector directamente de su zócalo.
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Los conectores de parte superior plana también pueden tener una barra de bloqueo de metal que mantiene el conector en su lugar. Suelta y levanta la barra de bloqueo para desconectarla.
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Coloca un spudger o una herramienta de apertura debajo del borde del conector y haz palanca hacia arriba para desconectarlo.
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Aunque son más raros, algunos conectores estilo pop más grandes pueden tener una lengüeta incorporada para una fácil desconexión. Levanta hacia arriba para desconectarlos.
I have an idea,/Request that I'm sure would be worth the effort, and fit right into this subject. how about a step by step guide on fixing the mistake of fudging up the socket yes on the mother board Guilty, right now it's a 500 dollar paper weight!! ! And I'm sure there's a long line of us,right guys, since you guy's are Awesome at it! Where to source the female sockets that's go onto the board and the proper steps and tecniques , would be greatly appreciated, keep up the great work!!
Sorry to hear that! My usual advice would be to take it to a repair shop that performs board-level repairs (a.k.a. microsoldering). Replacing a damaged connector socket typically requires a lot of skill, practice, and tools that likely cost more than the full retail price of your device. So, it’s not exactly DIY-friendly! But if you’re interested, you can find a good introduction to board-level repairs on our YouTube channel.
Is there a specific name for this type of connector? (brand, etc).
Stack-type Board-To-Board connector. JAE is a big manufacturer. FPC (Flexible Printed Circuit), what we commonly know as flex cables usually - is considered a board in this context.
"To reconnect, align the connector carefully over its socket and press down with your fingertip—first on one side, then the other—until it clicks into place."
This is ambiguous because it isn't clear to readers which is the 'side' of the connector referred to. For example, with a long rectangular connector, do you mean one of the short sides, or one of the long sides? I fear I may have got it wrong - after replacing my iPhone XS battery the bottom speaker no longer worked.
I disassembled the phone and disconnected and reconnected the connectors, to no avail, so reassembled the phone and ordered a replacement speaker. After fitting that, the speaker still doesn't work but unfortunately my screen now has a very bright stripe a few millimetres wide down the RHS. I didn't apply any excessive forces while lifting the screen and working on the phone - in fact it was easier to remove than the first time I opened it. The only thing I can think of is I used excessive isopropyl alcohol when cleaning the seal off.
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Herramienta utilizada en este paso:Tweezers$3.99
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Para desconectar el cable, desliza una palanca delgada a prueba de ESD o unas pinzas curvadas debajo del cuello metálico del conector (lo más cerca posible de la cabeza) y levántalo hacia arriba desde la placa.
Hello, I am repairing a tablet and the head to my coaxial cable fell off. What do I do?
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Desconectar estos cables es un proceso de dos pasos. Primero, empuja suavemente la punta de un spudger debajo de la hebilla de metal para soltarla y luego gíralo sobre el encaje.
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A continuación, sujeta la hebilla y el cable y tira suavemente del conector para sacarlo de su zócalo.
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Sujeta el cable y abróchalo e inserta el conector completamente en su zócalo.
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Voltea la hebilla sobre el encaje y usa un spudger para presionar la hebilla hacia abajo hasta que encaje en su lugar.
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Para desconectarlo, usa la punta de un spudger para empujar lados alternos del conector para "sacarlo" de su zócalo.
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La mayoría de las veces, estos conectores tendrán un borde o una pestaña en la parte superior que se puede usar para sacar el conector de su zócalo.
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Si no hay un lugar claro para usar una herramienta, consulta los conectores de cables incluidos.
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Para desconectar, usa el extremo ancho de un spudger para presionar la pestaña del conector y sacarlo de su zócalo.
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Para desconectar el cable, primero intenta empujar en lados alternos del conector, como pequeños conectores deslizantes.
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Si eso no funciona, usa un par de pinzas para sujetar firmemente los lados del conector y tira hacia afuera del zócalo. Mantén las pinzas más cerca del conector para conseguir un mejor agarre.
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Si el zócalo del conector tiene recortes, puedes insertar los brazos de un par de pinzas afiladas en los recortes y empujar suavemente el conector fuera del zócalo.
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Presiona la pestaña contra el conector y tira hacia arriba para desconectarlo.
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Para volver a conectarlo, empuja el conector sobre el zócalo hasta que el clip encaje. Escucharás y sentirás un "clic" distintivo.
Hallo, ich habe genau wie auf dem Bild bei meiner PS3 Slim ein ähnliches Kabel von dem Laufwerk zu trennen versucht. Beim Ziehen ist nicht das Kabel abgerissen, sondern die Anschlusstelle an der Platine hat sich auf einer Seite gelöst. Muss man hier nun das Teil wieder dran löten oder kann man es irgendwie mit Klebern fixieren?
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Los conectores de cables agrupados tienen muchos cables pequeños que entran en ellos, a menudo envueltos en una funda. Es posible que no tengan ningún lugar donde empujar con un spudger o un lugar donde agarrarse con unas pinzas. Tirar de los cables podría ser la única opción.
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Este debería ser el último recurso si los métodos de desconexión del conector deslizante y del conector JST no funcionaron.
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Sujeta todos los cables a la vez lo más cerca posible del conector y extrae el conector lenta y constantemente de su zócalo.
Lijkt me dat je hier eerst vlak over het kunststofdeel van het kabelcontact, in het midden waar hij lager is, smalle dunne schroevendraaier steek zodat het kunststof iets omhoog buigt en het borgnokje vrij komt zodat je hem eruit kan trekken!
Terug gewoon insteken.
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Para quitarlo, desliza con cuidado un spudger o una púa de apertura debajo del cable para separar su adhesivo.
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Herramienta utilizada en este paso:FixHub | Power Series Soldering Toolkit$299.95
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¡No hay de qué preocuparse! Un soldador permite deshacernos rápidamente de estos pequeños aparatos.
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Inspecciona el conector con cuidado e intente determinar cómo se separa.
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Si aún tienes problemas, busca guías de dispositivos similares para ver si brindan alguna pista o solicita ayuda en nuestro foro de Respuestas.
Hi,
I've just been wrangling with a 25ish year old Kenwood stereo. There were some connectors on it that I couldn't work out - which led me to this guide. The specific connectors aren't shown here. It turns out theybare spring-loaded, and you have to push the upper part (that I initially thought was a plug) down into the board - and this releases the ribbon cable. On the stereo, there are some shorter ones (8-pin), and some longer ones (15pin). On the longer ones, if you look close enough, they helpfully say ‘push' on them.
I've taken some photos of you'd like to add them to this guide?
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Foto 1: Una cubierta metálica grande se cierra sobre el conector completo y lo bloquea en su lugar.
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Foto 2: Es necesario empujar una pestaña de metal hacia adentro—en lugar de sacarla, para desbloquear el cable plano.
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25 comentarios
Beautiful work. However, my modern LCD flat screen TV set uses the "No-Fuss Ribbon Cable Connectors" and I think they are fairly common in this application.
"Step 2 — No-Fuss Ribbon Cable Connectors
Occasionally, you'll find a ribbon cable that simply pulls out of its socket, with no retaining flap.
<snip>
These kinds of connectors are fairly rare, so check carefully for a way to release the connector before you resort to pulling on the ribbon cable."
This was great! thanks for the detailed pictures. I have a question though on a very specific port used on apple tv 1.
here's the link to my post
It's important to note that ZIF connectors often do require force to insert, for example the digitizer ribbon cable on the Nexus 6, which has a bit of negative tension from being curved. It has to be pushed in using the little raised portion with a fingernail, and held so the line on the cable matches the line on the PCB before closing the retention bracket or else it will not connect properly.
I have a visio T-con board that has two flat ribbon connectors the one to the screen as a flip open latch you can do with your finger nail the other has a thin metal strip that over hangs the end on both sides. And ideas on how this one opens up? Rowland
Great post!
Would be great if Jeff or someone could help me with my question, doesn't look as though that connector type is covered in the the post above. Its listed here - Need help with these Connector latches
TIA,
Norm
good page, but I was looking for the display connectors for ipad air 2. They seem to just push on, but the pressure is so light I am not confident that they are seating correctly. It won’t turn on at any rate though the screen briefly comes up at boot.
Those are pop connectors—see Step 4. Align them carefully, and press them down; you should feel them click into place.
I recently ran into a FFC (Flat Flex Connector) type I didn’t know how to open exactly, and this page only refers to the flip-lock type. Turns out it was a slide-lock connector and the diagrams on the page below were very helpful. I simply used my tweezers to push on the two tabs towards the cable, the actuator moved easily once you knew which way to apply force.
Doing ifixit versions of these diagrams would be VERY helpful.
Slide Lock Diagram: ''https://gct.co/Images/products/ffc-con...
Flip Lock Diagram: ''https://gct.co/Images/products/ffc-con...
Parent Page: ''https://gct.co/ffc-connector''
Googling to find these hints was VERY difficult not knowing the terminology. But this ifixit page was at the top of the stack, update to save the next guy half an hour googling?
(Updating to say you DO mention ‘sliding’ connectors… but the mechanism of the actuator is not very clear and/or the photos didn’t quite get me there, mine was a smaller pin-pitch I think too).
@clickykbd This is a great idea! I’d love to add it to the guide. Do you mind sharing the name of the device you were working on, so we can try to get some photos of that connector in the wild? Or do you have some photos of your own? For copyright reasons, we usually can’t borrow other people’s images or graphics for our guides without permission. Thanks for sharing!
Jeff, It was a Marshsall VLCD70MD-3G on-camera/field monitor. The connector was for the LCD ribbon flexible pcb cable.. I’ve still got it apart as I am trying to source a LCD, so I can try to get some half decent photos in a day or so. I’m pretty sure I’ve run into these before and they came apart with the “just pull” method… but reseating them without mangling the flat-flex was very difficult without knowing the trick if I recall. Thought I would do my homework this time.
Bonjour
Je voudrais retirer un câble nappe écran sur la carte mêre de mon téléviseur LG 47LE5510 il y a dessus un petit levier qui se lève à l’ongle mais le câble semble collé et je n’ose pas forcer. Sur le connecteur est indiqué FS60 et le câble est un EAD60974135.
Pouvez-vous m’aider car je ne voudrais rien casser et ces 2 câbles coûtent cher en piece détachée.
Merci d’avance
Thank you, thank you, thank you. My husband really needed this.
Some ZIF ribbon connectors I’ve found, have the latch on the side of the insertion of the cable, some others on the oposite side. So be sure to pull on the correct side, or you will damage the connector. Another tip is to pull them very gently and when closing it, also with not much pressure, I have spoiled some hinges in the process, what is left to do is replace the whole connector.
Great article, but just one question… WhatWhat happens if you break one of these? Can you suggest a fix for something like the ZIF connector.
Is it pretty much a write off if you snap the latch on some of these connectors?
I have a 3D printer from China, it is an Artillery Sidewinder X1 v4 model . It uses ribbon cables from the power supply to the heated nozzle and the heated print bed. It is my understanding that power is sent along a couple (or more) of the wires to distribute the load, and I get a good deal of heat at the connector site, on the ribbon cable itself. It is enough heat that I believe the connection and/or the ribbon cable itself will fail.
It is a friction fit connection and I imagine it is difficult to keep the connections inline at the connecting point. The printer uses 20 wire and 30 ribbon wire cables as can be seen at: https://www.amazon.com/Artillery-Ribbon-...
My question, and I do understand the value of your time, is – what can I do to better align the connections? Is there some sort of heavier gauge ribbon I can use and, perhaps, do so through some sort of adapter at the connection point?
Anything you can suggest is appreciated.
Hi,
i need the connector in step 10.
Where can i buy this?
Thank Manuel
Merci : très clair et complet. Je vais pouvoir aider un ami à rebrancher le connecteur de son GPS
Where may I purchase these zif ribbon connectors?
URL disabled
Hi Robin! Which URL is disabled? Can you point me to a specific step?
URL disabled on my phone.
How to fix it now
Why can't I ADD min
What if I break the ZIF connector itself (were the ribbon goes), is my tablet ruin?
elainegb27 - Contestar
Unless you are good with a soldering iron or hot air station I would suggest taking it to someone that can do it.
deswaite -
“…Be sure to pry up on the hinged flap, not the connector socket….” but we’re not going to provide any further information than this and good luck with that :-)
andyescribe - Contestar
That’s what the photos are for—providing a visual example. There are a million different implementations of ZIF connector out there, so it’s not possible to provide specific instructions for each one in a single guide. For that, you need to search for the guide for your specific device. Unfortunately, looking at your post history, it appears you attempted to do that, but the guide you were following (Nexus 6) mislabeled the battery connector as a ZIF connector. I’ve corrected the guide. Sorry for the trouble!
Jeff Suovanen -
You have provide awesome tips which is very helpful. I have issue with FPC that not connecting with Cable
Ralph Vale - Contestar
hola he intentado cambiar el cristal de mi apple watch 2 despues de conseguirlo me he dado cuenta que he retirado el cable sin bajar la pestaña o no se que he doblado los pines despues de intentar una y otra vez el conector zip de la derecha ha quedado inservible es posible comprar ese conector en algun lugar o sabrian que nombre de conector debo buscar ya que no viene en ninguna expecificacion gracias
Fran Ansio - Contestar
Great tutorial, thanks. Had I not seen it, I would have irreparably damaged my keyboard. Perhaps it lacks a bit more guidance on how to place the cables back. I found that part to be the hardest actually.
Juan Dueñas - Contestar