Introducción
Sigue esta guía para sustituir la batería pegada de tu MacBook Pro con un kit iFixit con removedor de adhesivos. El removedor de adhesivo ayuda a debilitar el pegamento que asegura la batería vieja, haciendo que sea más fácil de remover.
El removedor de adhesivos iFixit es inflamable. Siga este procedimiento en un área bien ventilada. No fume ni trabaje cerca de una llama abierta.
Para minimizar el riesgo de daños, enciende tu MacBook y deja que la batería se descargue por completo antes de empezar este procedimiento. Si se perfora accidentalmente una batería de iones de litio cargada, puede producirse un incendio peligroso e incontrolableSi tu batería se ve hinchada, toma precauciones adicionales.
Nota: El disolvente utilizado para disolver el adhesivo de la batería puede dañar ciertos plásticos. Sigue todas las instrucciones y ten cuidado al aplicar el removedor de adhesivo.
Qué necesitas
-
-
Enciende tu Mac y ejecuta Terminal.
-
Copia y pega el siguiente comando (o escríbelo exactamente) en la Terminal:
-
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
-
Presiona [return]. Si se te solicita, introduce tu contraseña de administrador y vuelve a pulsar [return]. Nota: La tecla de retorno también puede estar etiquetada como ⏎ o "enter".
-
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
-
-
-
Utiliza un controlador P5 Pentalobe para quitar los seis tornillos que sujetan la carcasa inferior:
-
Dos tornillos de 6.2 mm.
-
Cuatro tornillos de 3.4 mm.
Sur le mien A1708 EMC3164 j’ai 4 vis de 6,2 (les coins) et 2 vis de 3,4 celles au milieu en bas
Ce tutoriel n’est pas dans la bonne section !
c’est le 13” avec touch bar et non celui avec les touches de fonction .
l’autre tuto nommé “écran complet” est le bon
Bonjour Vincent,
Si vous cherchez le même tutoriel pour le MacBook 13” non Touch Bar, le voici : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...
Before you start I suggest you get magnifier eyeware as screws and connectors are very small and good lightning are a big PLUS
Completed whole steps in over 4 hours….but worth it. Works back perfect and battery error message is gone….
-
-
-
Aplica un asa de succión a la caja inferior cerca del área central delantera del MacBook Pro.
-
Levanta el asa de succión para crear una ligera grieta entre la carcasa inferior y el chasis.
-
-
-
Inserta una esquina de una púa de apertura en el espacio entre la caja inferior y el chasis.
-
Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina más cercana y hasta la mitad del lado del estuche.
The instruction implies that sliding the pick up to the side of the case releases the clip. This is far from the truth; it takes a pretty strong force to pop the clip open. The plastic pick is a good start, but you need to reach in and pull the middle of that side of the case pretty hard.
-
-
-
Inserta tu púa de apertura una vez más debajo del borde frontal de la caja inferior, cerca de uno de los dos orificios de los tornillos más centrales.
-
Dale a la púa un giro firme para liberar el tercer clip que sujeta la carcasa inferior al chasis.
-
Repite este procedimiento cerca del otro de los dos orificios para tornillos más lejanos, liberando el cuarto clip.
Look at Step 8 pics 2 and 3 to see exactly where the clips are that need to be released. Taking the bottom cover off my MBP took for ever because I didn’t realize the clips were not right around the edges as the wording suggests. Once I realized this, it came off quickly and easily.
-
-
-
Tira de la caja inferior firmemente hacia la parte frontal del MacBook (lejos del área de la bisagra) para separar el último de los clips que aseguran la carcasa inferior.
-
Tira de una esquina y luego de otra.
On the 2018 model, there are two more clips that need to be popped on the sides in the middle. Then it slides out easily.
-
-
-
Retira la caja inferior.
-
Colócala en su lugar y alinea los clips deslizantes cerca de la bisagra de la pantalla. Presiona hacia abajo y desliza la cubierta hacia la bisagra. Debería dejar de deslizarse cuando las pinzas se enganchen.
-
Cuando los clips deslizantes estén totalmente acoplados y las minúsculas parezcan estar correctamente alineadas, presione firmemente sobre las minúsculas para acoplar los cuatro clips ocultos que hay debajo. Deberías sentir y escucharlos encajar en su lugar.
-
-
-
Con cuidado despega el trozo grande de cinta que cubre el conector de la batería en el borde de la placa lógica más cercano a la batería.
-
Remueve la cinta.
Please be VERY careful, I torn up my battery cable and had to replace all the battery.
-
-
-
Con cuidado despega el pequeño trozo de cinta que cubre el conector del cable de datos de la placa de la batería.
-
-
-
Usa la punta de un spudger para dar vuelta la pequeña lengüeta negra de bloqueo que sujeta el cable en su conector.
Be very careful here. I had to repeat this procedure several times on my MacBook Pro to replace faulty monitors. Eventually, after being opened and closed so many times, the small black locking tab came right off of the connector. Now my battery connection is broken and I can only use my MacBook when it is plugged into the power supply. I’m trying to find a way to securely connect the battery cable without this little locking tab (maybe with tape or something), but so far no luck. Does anyone at iFixit have any advice for me?
Like Jamie said, use mass amounts of caution here. The lever is very fragile, and mine came off as well - and I’m not exactly a muscular guy. Without it, the connection cannot be made to the data connector, and the computer will not think that a battery is installed. I had to finagle my connector with tweezers and a spudger back into place (and the picture above makes it look normal sized. The picture lies. It is TINY! We’re talking smaller than a small eyelash tiny), and then used some of the adhesive battery strip to hopefully keep it in place.
The previous comments are not exaggerated. There ain’t NOTHIN’ to that locking bar. I found it helpful to zoom in with my phone to work on it. It really requires no force to move, I imagine the tape is there to hold it down.
-
-
-
Usa un spudger para levantar con cuidado el conector de alimentación de la batería desconectando la batería.
-
Levanta el conector de forma quede separado de su zócalo. Si hace contacto accidentalmente durante la reparación, podría dañar tu MacBook Pro.
Dies ist kein Stecker sondern eine Kontaktplatte, die nur leicht angehoben werden muss. Dann am besten mit etwas Tesafilm isolieren.
(Translation for myself and others; Thanks for the nice tip by the way!) This is not a plug but a contact plate that only needs to be lifted slightly. Then it is best to isolate with some scotch tape.
S Woo -
-
-
-
Usa un destornillador Torx T3 para remover los dos tornillos de 1.8 mm que aseguran el bracket conector del cable del trackpad.
-
-
-
Usa una spudger para desconectar el cable plano del trackpad haciendo palanca gentilmente en su conector directamente de la tarjeta lógica.
-
-
-
Prepara un iOpener y colócalo sobre el cable plano del trackpad cerca de un minuto, en orden de aflojar el adhseivo que asegura el cable plano del trackpad al superior de la batería.
-
Si no tienes un iOpener, usa un secador de cabello para calentar el cable. El cable debería estar cálido pero no tan caliente para ser tocado. Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar la batería.
I was able to extremely gentle peel (just applying a little bit of continuous tension and waiting for the adhesive to release) the cable off without heating. It came off relatively easy, probably due to age or heavy usage in the past.
-
-
-
Con cuidado despega el cable plano de la batería, y empujarla fuera del camino.
-
-
-
Usa un desarmador Torx T5 para remover los diez tornillos que aseguran el conjunto del trackpad.
-
Dos tornillos de 4.3 mm
-
Ocho tornillos de 5.8 mm
-
-
-
Balancea el display abierto ligeramente para acceder al trackpad.
-
Con cuidado enrosca el cable plano del trackpad a través del agujero en el marco de la MacBook Pro.
-
-
-
Retira el conjunto del trackpad.
-
Asegúrate de no perder los seis pequeños anillos (dos circulares y cuatro rectangulares) que descansan en el lado inferior del trackpad.
-
-
-
Usa un destornillador T3 Torx para remover los dos tornillos de 1.9 mm del soporte del conector del teclado.
-
-
-
Usa un spudger para desconectar el conector del teclado levantándolo directamente de la placa lógica.
-
-
-
Remueve los dos tornillos Torx T3 de 2,9 mm que aseguran la cubierta de aluminio en la parte superior del cable de la pantalla principal.
-
Remueve la cubierta.
-
-
-
Con un destornillador T3 Torx:
-
Retira dos tornillos de 1.4 mm del soporte del conector del puerto Thunderbolt a la izquierda.
-
Retira otros dos tornillos de 1.4 mm del soporte del conector del puerto Thunderbolt a la derecha.
If you are trying to replace the Thunderbolt port boards, you have to finish removing the entire logic board in order to get to the 2 screws holding each board in place. You can leave the battery and track pad in place though.
Apple used poor quality boards for the thunderbolt boards so they will definitely wear out over time. Make sure you replace them with metal boards and your USB C cable will click in nice and tight for a really long time.
-
-
-
-
Usa un spudger para desconectar el conector del puerto Thunderbolt del lado izquierdo empujándolo directamente hacia arriba desde la tarjeta lógica.
-
Empuja suavemente el conector hacia un lado para que no interfiera con la extracción de la placa lógica
-
-
-
Repite el procedimiento con el conector del puerto Thunderbolt del lado derecho, empujándolo desde el borde interior y empujándolo cuidadosamente hacia un lado.
-
-
-
Usa un destornillador Torx T3 para quitar los dos tornillos de 1.9 mm del soporte de la cubierta que sujeta el Touch ID y los conectores de audio de 3.5 mm.
-
-
-
Usa un spudger para desconectar el cable flexible de la toma de audio de 3.5 mm levantándolo de la placa lógica.
-
Empuja suavemente el cable flexible hacia un lado.
-
-
-
Desconecta el cable flexible del Touch ID y del botón de encendido empujándolo directamente hacia arriba desde la placa lógica.
-
-
-
Aplica calor moderado con un iOpener, una pistola de calor o un secador de pelo para ablandar el adhesivo bajo el botón de encendido/cable flexible Touch ID.
-
-
-
Desliza con cuidado una púa de apertura debajo del cable flexible para separarlo de la placa lógica, y empújalo con cuidado hacia un lado.
-
Si tienes problemas, no lo fuerces, aplica un poco más de calor y vuelve a intentarlo.
First let me thank you for this AMAZING guide which helped me a lot to achieve an almost successful battery replacement… I’m saying “almost” because, as you write in red letters, I wasn’t careful enough and my Touch ID cable got damaged.
Do you have any idea on how much should such a repair cost?
I know that only apple stores or authorized service providers can perform such a repair…
Thanks again!
Boy that’s a tough one :( It’s among the most problematic of all components to replace, because the fingerprint sensor is cryptographically paired to the logic board. The best option might be to get in touch with a skilled microsolderer and ask if they can take a look at the cable and try to repair the traces. Apart from that, the only options I’m aware of would be to pay Apple whatever they demand for a repair (no idea, but most likely a lot), or replace both the sensor and the entire logic board with another set that is already paired and undamaged. Wish I could be more help. Good luck!
Difficult though it may be, as a retired fixer, and amazed at the new tiny tiny parts, I am even more amazed at this new cooperative culture of fixers. The depth of helpful detail is amazing. The new environment of cheap special tools, and amazingly detailed hires pics is a powerful new repair meme. I used i-fixit for my first MBAir, but haven’t the skills for this, my current mac. But this addition, the carefully inserted comments of users, and the skills and cooperative attitude of you all, is quite amazing. And I watch and admire. Well done, you.
This cable has a metal plate that is PART OF THE CABLE. It is initially invisible, and can easily be mistaken for part of the logic board upon which it is adhered. As you begin to try to peel it up, make certain that your tool is also making its way beneath that integral thin metal plate. There are chip components that will delaminate from the cable if you attempt to lift it, or if your prying tool happens to not make it under the plate.
-
-
-
Usa un destornillador del T3 Torx para remover el tornillo de 1.9 mm del soporte del conector del digitalizador de Touch Bar.
-
-
-
Usa un spudger para desconectar el digitalizador de Touch Bar levantando el conector directamente de la placa lógica.
-
-
-
Usa el destornillador T3 Torx para remover los dos tornillos de 1.9 mm del soporte del conector de la pantalla de Touch Bar.
-
-
-
Usa un spudger para desconectar el conector de pantalla de Touch Bar levantándola directamente de la placa lógica.
-
-
-
Despega cualquier cinta que cubra el zócalo del conector del micrófono.
-
-
-
Abre la tapa de bloqueo del conector ZIF del cable del micrófono empujándola directamente hacia arriba desde la placa lógica.
-
-
-
Desconecta el cable del micrófono tirando hacia atrás del ventilador hasta que se deslice fuera de su zócalo.
-
Si es posible, tira de la cinta adjunta, en lugar de tirar del cable en sí.
-
-
-
Abre la tapa de bloqueo del conector ZIF del altavoz de agudos del lado izquierdo empujándola directamente hacia arriba desde la placa lógica.
-
-
-
Retira cualquier cinta que cubra el zócalo del altavoz principal izquierdo.
For me, the main speaker tape on both sides tore loose, which is a real shame, because those are the two hardest to get back in - they're very short and stiff.
Important safety tip: On my laptop, the cables have two semicircular notches near the end. You can tell when they're fully-inserted when the notches are inside the connector.
-
-
-
Abre la tapa de bloqueo del conector ZIF del altavoz principal izquierdo empujándola directamente hacia arriba desde la placa lógica.
-
-
-
Repite los seis pasos anteriores para desconectar el altavoz de agudos y el altavoz principal opuestos, a la derecha.
-
Empieza despegando cualquier cinta que cubra el conector del altavoz de agudos.
This step seems redundant as those six steps get repeated in detail anyway after this step.
-
-
-
Abre la tapa de bloqueo del conector ZIF del altavoz de agudos del lado derecho empujándola directamente hacia arriba desde la placa lógica.
-
-
-
Abre la tapa de bloqueo del conector ZIF del altavoz principal derecho empujándola directamente hacia arriba desde la placa lógica.
-
-
-
Desconecta el primer cable de la antena empujándolo directamente hacia arriba desde el zócalo.
-
Desliza cuidadosamente tus pinzas o el extremo plano de tu spudger por debajo del cable hasta que esté cerca del enchufe, y luego gíralo suavemente o haz palanca para desconectarlo.
-
-
-
Repite el paso anterior para desconectar los dos cables de antena restantes.
Reconnecting is very tricky. It doesn't take much force to push down, but the connectors have to be perfectly aligned. You won't really feel it snap into place, but it will stay put and resist wiggling.
Agreed, very tricky step. I found the two slightly longer leads easier to reattach. Then I used them as a visual guide to attach the small lead. It helped to slightly bend the lead. Glenn is correct, it doesn’t take much pressure to attach but the leads have to be perfectly aligned. Be careful if you test the fit, very easy to pry back off.
-
-
-
Utiliza un destornillador Torx T5 para quitar el tornillo de 2. 9 mm que fija el conjunto de cables de la antena.
-
-
-
Remueve los diez tornillos que sujetan el ensamblaje de la placa lógica.
-
Tres tornillos Torx T3 de 2.5 mm
-
Cinco tornillos Torx T5 de 2.9 mm
-
Dos tornillos Torx T5 de 3.0 mm
-
-
-
Despega (pero no retirar) las dos bandas amortiguadoras de vibración de goma del adhesivo que las sujeta a los ventiladores.
-
Si es necesario, aplica calor suave con un iOpener, un secador de pelo o una pistola de calor para suavizar el adhesivo y hacer que los amortiguadores sean más fáciles de separar.
Mine had no adhesive on them at all. You only need to make sure they are loosened from the fan shroud. They come out with the logic board assembly.
-
-
-
Levanta desde el lado izquierdo para retirar el conjunto de la placa lógica.
Wichtig !!
Vorher den Display Anschluß (hinten mitte) Abschrauben und lösen.
2x bleche mit jeweils 2 Scxhrauben
Ist nachgetragen. Danke!
What just happened… While I was removing the logic board one of the small black boxes from the bottom right just fell off. I am not sure but I think it is a capacitor - it says KO 336 16K 723. It just fell, I did not even touch this part… Maybe it was broken when I opened up the case in the beginning, but I did not notice it then.
Did I just break my laptop?
Translation
Important !!
First unscrew and loosen the display connection (rear center).
2x plates with 2 screws each
@Glendstone You are absolutely right. This is a key feature they forgot to explain.
The feedbacis has possibly already been addressed in step 27 as it was already fully disconnected when I got to this step.
-
-
-
Comprueba la alineación de los amortiguadores de vibraciones de goma y ajústalos según sea necesario.
-
Pasa el conjunto de cables de la antena a través del espacio entre la placa lógica y el disipador de calor, y asegúrate de que se alinee correctamente cuando bajes la placa a su lugar.
-
Verifica que no queden cables atrapados debajo de la placa mientras la instalas. Revisa cuidadosamente cada uno de los lugares marcados.
-
-
-
Usa un destornillador T5 Torx para remover los dos tornillos de 3.2 mm de la placa de la batería.
Terrible time to lose screws, but that is exactly what ended up happening to me. I lost the battery board screws and ended up crazy glueing down.
-
-
-
Para proteger tu pantalla, coloca una hoja de papel de aluminio entre la pantalla y el teclado y déjala allí mientras trabajas.
-
Además, usa cinta adhesiva y/o papel de aluminio para sellar el área debajo del trackpad. Opcionalmente, también puedes poner una toalla absorbente directamente debajo del área del trackpad para absorber el exceso de adhesivo.
From here onward I just used the plastic cards provided without the adhesive. It just cut through the tape and took them off in 2-3 mins without any issue. I tried the floss and it just kept breaking and I didn't want to use the adhesive remover liquid if I could find another way. Using the cards was the best for me.
-
-
-
Corta un trozo de cinta de embalaje o cinta de pintor y desliza un borde entre la batería y el altavoz del lado izquierdo.
I didn’t have packing tape or painter’s tape so I tried to use some of the packing materials, but that was a bad idea. What ended up working for me was to elevate one side and used the plastic card to to direct the acetone away from the speaker. Worked a-ok.
-
-
-
Repite los dos pasos anteriores en el lado opuesto para sellar el otro altavoz de la batería.
Note that no matter how well you tape off the speakers and elevate the sides of the laptop, there is not a lot of space between the battery and the speaker, and adhesive remover WILL wick under the speakers. Yay for capillary action, I guess? . . ..
-
-
-
Para controlar el flujo del removedor de adhesivo y alejarlo del altavoz, levanta el borde derecho de tu MacBook Pro unos centímetros con un libro o un bloque de espuma.
The Fix Kit box is the perfect size for this job. I stuck a little packing tape from the metal case to the box to stop it accidentally sliding off.
-
-
-
Ahora que tu MacBook Pro está totalmente preparado, es el momento de prepararte
-
Usa protección para los ojos cuando manipules y apliques el removedor de adhesivos. (La protección ocular está incluida en su kit.)
-
No uses lentes de contacto sin protección ocular.
-
Los guantes de protección también están incluidos en tu kit. Si estás preocupado por una posible irritación de la piel, coloca los guantes ahora.
-
-
-
Retira el tapón de goma negra de tu botella de removedor de adhesivo.
-
Usa tijeras para cortar la punta sellada del aplicador.
-
Cortar cerca de la punta estrecha le dará un mejor control para que pueda aplicar el removedor de adhesivo en pequeñas cantidades.
-
-
-
Aplica unas gotas de removedor de adhesivo debajo de la celda de la batería del extremo derecho.
-
Espera unos dos minutos para que el removedor de adhesivo penetre y ablande el adhesivo de la batería antes de continuar con el siguiente paso.
It REALLY IS strong solvent! I accidentally got some on the rubber strip between the battery and the logic board compartment and it peeled right off! I had to replace this with some spare rubber feet I had for another device.
-
-
-
Después de un par de minutos, inserta una esquina de una tarjeta de plástico debajo de la celda de la batería del extremo derecho, empezando por el borde frontal.
-
Mueve la tarjeta de un lado a otro y deslízala hasta el fondo debajo de la celda de la batería.
-
Levanta para separar completamente el adhesivo, pero no trates de retirar la celda de la batería todavía.
-
Deja la tarjeta de plástico temporalmente debajo de la celda para evitar que se vuelva a adherir mientras continúas.
-
-
-
Si tienes dificultades para colocar la tarjeta debajo de cualquiera de las celdas de la batería, intenta usar un trozo de hilo dental o cable debajo de la celda de la batería. Tirar de lado a lado con un movimiento de aserrado para separar el adhesivo.
Bei der Entfernung der Akkus mit Zahnseide oder Maurerschnur jeden Akku seperat lösen.
Wie im Bild gezeigt von hinten einfädeln und dann zwischen den beiden Akkus nach vorne lösen.
Dabei die Zahnseide wie eine Säge nach rechts und Links bewegen.
Bei den kleineren Akkus sind die Klebestreifen von hinten nach vorne. Somit ist das auch die Richtung wie man sie einfach lösen kann.
Der Mittlere Akku ist von links nach rechts verklebt. Somit sollte man dort die Richtung ändern.
Danke für die Erläuterungen!
Translation (Google) : When removing the batteries with dental floss or masonry cord, loosen each battery separately. Thread it in from the back as shown in the picture and then release it to the front between the two batteries. Move the floss to the right and left like a saw. On the smaller batteries, the adhesive strips are from back to front. So this is also the direction how to solve them easily. The middle battery is glued from left to right. So you should change direction there.
-
-
-
Repita los últimos pocos pasos para separar la celda de la batería en el extremo izquierdo.
-
Empieza elevando el lado izquierdo del MacBook Pro para dirigir el flujo del removedor de adhesivo lejos del altavoz.
-
-
-
Aplica unas gotas de removedor de adhesivo debajo de la celda de la batería del extremo izquierdo y espera unos dos minutos para que penetre.
-
-
-
Desliza una esquina de una tarjeta de plástico debajo de la celda de la batería del extremo izquierdo y separa cuidadosamente el adhesivo que la mantiene en su lugar.
-
Deja la tarjeta de plástico temporalmente debajo de la celda para evitar que se vuelva a adherir mientras continúas.
-
-
-
A continuación, levanta el borde trasero de tu MacBook Pro para dirigir el flujo del removedor de adhesivo fuera del área del teclado/tarjeta lógica.
-
-
-
Aplica unas gotas de removedor de adhesivo debajo de cada una de las tres celdas de batería restantes.
-
Ten cuidado con las fugas y aplica más removedor de adhesivo en los siguientes pasos si es necesario.
-
Espera unos dos minutos antes de continuar.
-
-
-
Desliza una tarjeta de plástico por debajo de la celda de la batería del extremo izquierdo, que ya has separado en los pasos anteriores, e introdúcela con cuidado entre la celda de la batería del lado izquierdo y el marco de aluminio del MacBook Pro.
-
-
-
Repita los dos pasos previos para separar la celda de de la batería restante en la derecha.
-
-
-
Desliza la esquina de una de tus tarjetas de plástico por debajo del borde superior de la celda de batería central grande.
-
Mueva la tarjeta de un lado a otro y deslízala por debajo de la celda de la batería para separar completamente el adhesivo que la mantiene en su lugar.
-
-
-
Remueve la batería.
-
Antes de instalar una batería nueva, retira todo el adhesivo restante de la carcasa del MacBook Pro.
-
Quita cualquier tira grande de adhesivo con pinzas o guantes.
-
Raspa los trozos restantes de adhesivo con una herramienta de plástico y limpia las áreas subyacentes con un removedor de adhesivo o alcohol isopropílico. Limpia en una dirección (no hacia adelante y hacia atrás) hasta que el chasis esté limpio y listo para su nueva batería.
-
Cuando termines, retira cuidadosamente la cinta protectora de los altavoces.
-
-
-
Ten en cuenta el cable de datos de la batería y asegúrate de que no se pellizque ni quede atrapado debajo de la placa de la batería.
-
Si la batería viene con adhesivo preinstalado en la parte inferior, voltéala y despega cuidadosamente el revestimiento para exponer el adhesivo. Si tu batería no viene con adhesivo, aplica una fina cinta adhesiva de doble cara comoTesa 61395 para mantenerla en su lugar.
-
Coloca la batería con cuidado y colócala en su sitio.
-
Presiona y mantén cada celda firmemente durante 5-10 segundos para asegurarla a la caja inferior.
Step 88 is a bit . . . . sparse. “Carefully position the battery and set it into place.“ Ha! Be prepared for mass amounts of swearing (and I don’t usually swear). iFixIt sends you a battery that has the adhesive strips covered with one long very thick piece of plastic. And by “battery” I mean five discreet sections held together with thin ribbon cables that make the entire thing as wriggly as a toddler and as unstable as my girlfriend in college. If you take it off the thick plastic and try to maneuver the battery into its very specific places while the battery’s strong adhesive strips stick to everything but what it should you will rue the day. Rue, I tell you! I cut the top piece of thinner plastic into three sections (middle, left side, right side) so I was able to place one section at a time, and it made it much easier (well, “much” may be a stretch. How about, “only slightly less-sweary”).
I feel sorry for Wayne though happy for his comment. I got my battery pack delivered with 5 separate plastic covers on the adhesive strips under, and one long plastic sheet holding the five parts together at the top. Thanks to the latter, I could easily position the 5-pack, remove the cover from the bottom parts one by one, and the holding sheet at last.
Thank you Wayne and thank you iFixit :-)
Thank YOU for this comment to Wayne because I too was confused about the purpose and proper use of the aligning plastic and adhesive pads. I originally thought it was meant to be the tape/pads to hold the new battery in place in the macbook, albeit they were a lot thicker and the way they were arranged etc made no sense for how to use it that way. Once I read your comment it all made sense and with the addition of some 3M double-sided I was all set. Thanks Paul!
-
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos arriba en orden inverso.
Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje certificado.
¿La reparación no salió como planificaste? Consulta nuestra página de [[Troubleshooting Problems After a Repair|resolución de problemas] o busca en la comunidad de respuestas para ayuda.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos arriba en orden inverso.
Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje certificado.
¿La reparación no salió como planificaste? Consulta nuestra página de [[Troubleshooting Problems After a Repair|resolución de problemas] o busca en la comunidad de respuestas para ayuda.
Cancelar: No complete esta guía.
40 personas más completaron esta guía.
Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:
100%
Estos traductores nos están ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›
25 comentarios
You can remove the battery without removing the logic board, took me 45mins all in.
I did up to step 23 then jumped to 64, only a tiny bit of the battery cable is under the board and isnt glued down so can be removed/inserted easily.
i also didnt turn off autoboot as once the battery is disconnected it wont boot.
Darren - thanks for the hint! I was also wondering (and wouldn’t want to do) why to extract the whole logic board.
Overall took me an hour or so and I used the “thread” method to actually remove the batteries instead of the glue remover. Worked fine for me. The only issue was with getting the battery cable from und the board because of the tight fitting with the separator “wall” between the logic board and the main battery cell. I ended up breaking the glued little wall from the case, then you can easily slide the cable under the board and afterwards gluing it back into place.
All good now :-)
I exactly what Kerry did. You can break that “wall” and then you can easily slide the cable in under the logic board. Not sure what that wall does other than provide a stop from the bottom case pushing on battery. I glued it back and didn’t seem to have any problems. I did not use the double side tape to secure the batteries so it would be easier to change the next time. Don’ t know why apple has to put so much glue. Scraping off the batteries is the hardest part!
Here is a link to a picture of the batter “wall” that you can break off and then glue back. This will save you from removing the logic board:
I replaced the battery and it started up at first but when I went to unplug the mac it shut off, the next time I started it up it said that the battery wasn’t charging and shut off when I unplugged it even though the battery had 73% of charge. I opened the mac and made sure I did all the steps and make sure the battery was plugged in correctly, but now it won’t even startup at all.
Yes this also happened to me too! I think many of these batteries are older and will lose their charge over time, so if the new battery has a very low charge on it then there is a protection circuit on the board and it will not charge. Many lithium battery chargers have this as a safety precaution in case the battery is defective. This is what worked for me:
Remove the battery and the two gold tabs on the right that make contact with the logic board contacts (the ones that you but a screw in between) can be used to view how much voltage the battery is putting out. Just use a volt meter and you can also tell which contact is positive and which is negative. To add so voltage to the battery directly I just hooked this battery to a 12v trickle charger overnight. Be careful here! You do not want to overcharge the battery as this is very dangerous. Continued below….
I can’t guarantee this will work for you, but this is what I did and was happy it worked out for me. This is another reason why not to use the double sided tape (or use sparingly) until you know your battery is good. I had to take my battery out at least 3 times and I became an expert at changing the battery. It is easy if you don’t tape and you break that plastic wall to get the cables under the logic board. Good Luck!
Ian
The next morning the battery voltage did not change (I think it was really low to start with - I recall less than 3v) so I was a bit disappointed but I put it back into the Mabookpro and did not start right away. Instead I plugged in the charger and left the charger on the MacBook Pro for the rest for the day (about 18 hours). Then I booted up the MacBook Pro and it worked! The battery was fully charged and would hold its charge and recharge no problem.Â
Your initial 73% charge reading was probably wrong, my did this too the first time I installed and when I unplugged because it wasn’t uncharging the computer went off like it had no battery power. Continued below…
@Ian Jeffreys, so what did you do in the end, the 12v trickle charger or the 18h MBP charger?
Having the same issue myself now that the install is complete.
It boots same as ever when plugged in and all peripherals are functional (fingerprint, speakers, trackpad, TouchBar, etc), just no battery indicator anywhere, it's like it's not connected?
I'll try leaving it plugged in overnight before a full retracing of steps, hopefully it's just a serious low voltage making it fail to register with the system?
Thanks all who came before for the posting!
~MP
Update: removed the back cover and re-tightened the battery connection pancake screww et voilá!
I followed the suggestion of Darren and followed the ifixit guide to step 23 and then skipped to 64. There is no way I wanted to disassemble most of my Mac to swap the battery., Thanks Darren! When I swapped the battery, I gently slid the battery cable under the logic board without breaking the battery wall. Patience and gentleness is critical, force nothing at that step. My computer fired up and the new battery seems to operate normally. I spent about an hour and half for the whole swap, I had the Ifixit instructions on my iPad so I could reference them as I went through each step. I also watched several yourtube videos in preparation for the swap.
Thanks. Great tutorial. Worked like a charm, including the shortcut.
My Battery-Set that I bought had all the tools except the T3 Torx included. Also included was a plastic push thingy with a handle to scrap underneath the battery packs and “cut” the glue-stickers/tape. A bit scary, since the batteries did bend a little. But 2 Minutes later I had the batterie in my hand. Much better than risking to ruin the display and/or keyboard and everything stays dry. Glue remover on an ear-bud does the rest.
Another hint: In step 23 watch out for the 6 tiny washers on the touchpad. They are loosely placed. I turned the touchpad around to put it away and all washers fell to the ground. Now I am missing a small one…
Everybody out there: Good luck !
I was going through the steps and got to step 33 by the time I realized I didn’t have to gut the whole laptop just to remove the battery! Shame on you iFixit!
I put the hot iOpener on top of the palm rest, since the touchpad was out by then, and used the plastic card to slowly scrape at the adhesive. Worked like a champ even without the liquid treatment. The battery didn’t even blow up in my face even though it was puffed up.
But, I got a DOA battery, not from iFixit, and had already stuck it in place using the provided adhesive. I’ve receive about the same amount of DOA batteries for Apple products than Windows products, if that accounts for anything. Apple batteries purchase since 2012, about 10. Windows laptop batteries purchased since 2012, too many to even try to count.
OK, für die deutschen Benutzer ein paar Ergänzungen:
Die Schritte zwischen 23 und 64 sind definitiv nicht notwendig. Man kann das Kabel der Akku-Platine auch entfernen, ohne dass das Mainboard ausgebaut ist. Am einfachsten ist es, wenn man zuerst den rechten Teil des Kabels entfernt beziehungsweise beim Einbau einfügt. Dann muss man auch nicht das kleine Kunststoffstückchen ausbrechen.
Am schwierigsten empfand ich das Lösen der Verklebung des Akkus. Man kann dazu langsam Plastikkarten unterschrieben, die die Akkuteile leicht nach oben drücken. Wenn man dann einige Zeit wartet, hat sich der Akku ein wenig gelöst und man kann die Plastikkarte etwas nachschieben. Das wiederholt man einfach, bis der ganze Akku gelöst ist.
Die Klebstoffreste kann man sehr gut mit Brennspiritus einlösen und entfernen, ohne dass man Gefahr läuft, durch Aceton Kunststoffteile zu beschädigen.
Noch ein Hinweis zu Schritt 15: den Akkustromstecker braucht man nur leicht anzuheben, um die Stromversorgung zu unterbrechen. Zur Sicherheit ein kleines Stück Tesafilm unterkleben.
Bei meinem ersten Zusammenbau ist es mir nicht gelungen, das Trackpad 100-prozentig mittig auszurichten.
Ich bin dann so vorgegangen:
1. Ich habe die zehn Befestigungsschrauben des Trackpads leicht gelöst.
2. Dann habe ich an allen vier Seiten zwei Papierstreifen zwischen Trackpad und Gehäuse geklemmt.
3. Anschließend habe ich die Befestigungsschrauben wieder angezogen.
Das Trackpad ist nun wunderbar mittig ausgerichtet.
Noch etwas zu Schritt 15:
Ich war zuerst etwas verwirrt, weil ich den Stecker beim besten Willen nicht heraus bekam. Tatsächlich handelt es sich auch gar nicht um einen Stecker, sondern nur um eine Kontaktplatte, die mit der Befestigungsschraube angedrückt wird und so den Kontakt zum Akku herstellt. Also nicht wie ich an diesem Ding herumrupfen!
Es wäre sinnvoll, die Beschreibung entsprechend zu ändern.
Merci pour ce tutoriel tres precis qui m’a permis de changer la batterie de mon MacBook !! :)
I did the full teardown replacement, went smoothly, just be careful of your ziff sockets and tape tabs, you really want them to survive. This really takes a solid 3 hours! Not my first mac battery replacement but this one you go deep. Thanks for the photos, saved a whole lot of time! Adhesive from !&&*!!!
Plus 1 for removing the battery without taking the logic board out. With a bit of care the flat flex can babe slid out from under on removal and back under on installation.
Hallo hab gerade in 3 Stunden meine MacBook Pro Batterie gewechselt, die alte(n) haben das Gehäuse gebläht und die Kapazität war kleiner eine Stunde. Hatte erst Angst das Digitalboard komplett raus zu nehmen, ging aber nach Anleitung sehr gut. Die Akkus habe ich mit einem stumpfen Spachtel rausgelöst, wenn mans mal gemacht hat kein Problem.
Wichtig ist vorher wirklich tiefentladen, ansonsten sind Akkus halt schon keile Bomben.
Also gerne wieder, das Akku Kit ist klasse, der Mac sofort wieder hochgefahren und jetzt lädt er (-:
Definitely jump from Step 23 to Step 67. As others noted, just break the small piece blocking the battery board (actually it’s not breaking, it’s only a glued piece).
Instead of the adhesive remover liquid provided in the pack and the floss I used the plastic cards to remove the battery. The floss kept breaking and I didn't want to risk with the adhesive remover. With the plastic cards I did it in 3-5 min.
Replaced the batteries and I was so glad to see the MBP start again, after it was completely dead for a few weeks! I thank God for your work. God bless
Like others, I skipped the whole section on removing the logic board in the fixit guide, followed it up to step 23 and then skipped to 67.
Used the adhesive remover and the battery came out with some tugging, then used the fluid to clean it any residue.
The old battery was so dead that the Mac wouldn't even switch on when power was plugged in, so it was good to see the Mac booting up straight away as soon as I powered it up on battery. Battery reported to be at 33% with health warning, but after a reboot, the warning disappeared and it's now charging up nicely.
Very good instructions and kit supplied was brilliant.
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - Contestar
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Contestar
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Contestar
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Contestar
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Contestar
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Contestar
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Contestar
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Contestar
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Contestar
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - Contestar
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - Contestar
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - Contestar
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - Contestar
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - Contestar
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - Contestar
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - Contestar
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - Contestar
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - Contestar
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - Contestar
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - Contestar
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - Contestar
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - Contestar
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - Contestar
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - Contestar
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - Contestar
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -
Read the comments section at the bottom of the article before proceeding with the repair. It is unnecessary to remove the logic board. I actually removed the 45mm plastic bar to enable the cables to slip out then in. It is only there to frustrate repairers!
Jack - Contestar