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Introducción

Sigue los pasos en esta guía para reemplazar el cable flexible del conector Lightning en un iPhone. Este cable flexible incluye el conector Lightning, conector de auriculares, micrófonos dobles y los contactos para el motor táptico y el altavoz.

  1. Inserta la herramienta de expulsión del SIM o un clip de papel en el pequeño agujero en la bandeja del SIM. Presiona para expulsar la bandeja.
    • Inserta la herramienta de expulsión del SIM o un clip de papel en el pequeño agujero en la bandeja del SIM.

    • Presiona para expulsar la bandeja.

    • Esto puede requerir un cantidad significativa de fuerza.

    Anyone ever have the lever on these break? I’m in the process of removing logic board to remove a stuck SIM card

    aburningstariv - Contestar

    I am baffled by the representation that this task requires 1-2 hours. I’ve spent at least 16 hours so far, and I’ve just gotten to the point of applying the adhesive around the perimeter of the case. I’ve done DIY with many gadgets, with cars, electricity, plumbing, painting, carpentry, masonry, and so forth, so it’s not a matter of inexperience, incompetence, or my having ten thumbs. While I am being very deliberate in this work, since this is the first time I’ve opened up a smartphone, and even tiny errors can seriously damage the phone, that doesn’t begin to account for the enormous discrepancy regarding the time this takes. Are other commenters being boastful, afraid to admit how long this is taking them, or what?

    Robin Nerode - Contestar

  2. Retira la bandeja del SIM del iPhone.
    • Retira la bandeja del SIM del iPhone.

    • Cuando vuelvas a insertar la tarjeta SIM, asegúrate que lo haces en la orientación correcta conforme a la bandeja.

  3. Antes de desarmar su iPhone, descarga la batería por debajo del 25%. Una batería de litio-ion cargada puede generar fuego o explotar si es perforada accidentalmente.
    • Antes de desarmar su iPhone, descarga la batería por debajo del 25%. Una batería de litio-ion cargada puede generar fuego o explotar si es perforada accidentalmente.

    • Apaga tu iPhone antes de empezar a desarmar.

    • Remueve los dos tornillos Pentalobe P2 de 3.4 mm que se encuentran cerca del conector Lightning en el borde inferior de su iPhone.

    Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

    Janet Monaghen - Contestar

    @beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

    alexanderbrix1987 - Contestar

    Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

    Keith Hockenbeck - Contestar

    Is it ok to replace the battery if the phone screen is broken?

    Reem - Contestar

    Of course! As long as the screen and battery are disconnected from the motherboard, you can replace anything!

    Charles Bejarano -

    is it possible to change my battery on my iphone 6s and use a battery that has been already used in another 6s

    morgan durnford - Contestar

    Yeah it would work, but if the battery heath on the 2nd battery is bad, just get a new one.

    Charles Bejarano -

    @moe6802 Removing the battery can damage it, and it shouldn’t be used afterward. It may seem fine, but even minor battery damage can lead to a fire hazard. Not worth it for such a cheap part. If you need a battery, just get a new one.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you discharge a battery? Do you just let the battery drain or is there something less time consuming that you can do?

    Matthew Petts - Contestar

    There is no easy way to discharge the battery in “less time”. Perhaps the fastest way is to play a visually-complex modern game or otherwise make your phone do a lot of work.

    Lance J -

    So my phone screen is completely black causing me to see nothing that is on my screen. And the battery is above 25%, near 100%. What do I do??

    Jessica I - Contestar

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Seizure Salad -

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Seizure Salad - Contestar

    I can’t the screws with the P2, seems that the screws are stuck, what can i do?

    Alberto Jabiles - Contestar

    My kit came with 3 screws. Are those to replace these 2 P2 screws? And what’s the third one for?

    Daniel Morse - Contestar

    If it came with 3 screws, then it’s an extra one just in case if a replacement screw gets lost.

    Charles Bejarano -

    My display is cracked/broken and not functioning. The slide bar doesn’t work. How do I shut down my phone?

    Timothy Huss - Contestar

    i have replaced several ipod batteries and laptop work, but these screws seem to loose but do not come out. how am i to remove them.shake the iphone?it seems the ioen is not in my kit, is that how to remove them?

    this seems idiotic but i remember some other system magnets that firt make your screws easier to keep, but this might be changed….any video? this seems 1st step blues!!!!

    makinfilms - Contestar

    never ind ishook it… is that in the guide?….iopener is not in the kit……never was before is this an upsell? do i skip it? i dont have it

    makinfilms - Contestar

    My screws aren’t coming out either. I’ve loosened them, but they aren’t coming out. I’ve shaken the phone, given it some slight bangs…nothing.

    Jesse Fisher -

    The following info is not given until step 21 in the instructions, and probably too late at that.

    DO NOT disconnect or reconnect any of the cables in this device until the battery itself has been disconnected!

    Don’t skip that step, intending to do it at the end, as you may damage the phone.

    ffissk - Contestar

    2 thoughts:

    1) Really? Steps 14-17 are about disconnecting the battery first, and step 17 notes “so it doesn’t get reconnected while you work.” How’d you get to step 21 and miss 14-17?

    2) These pages are user-editable. (Probably (hopefully) “curated” by iFixit staff.) You should add a warning to step 17 (or step 24).

    Bass Clef -

    NOW THAT YOU’VE REMOVED 2 SCREWS, and

    BEFORE YOU SNEEZE them into oblivion, or under the refrigerator (which is the same in many houses)

    MAY I suggest:

    1) Obtain:

    — a piece of paper, such as normal printer paper (not too much writing on one side)

    — a piece of tape, not too sticky, like masking tape (duct tape would be bad)

    ——— 1-1.5 inches (2.5-4 cm) wide

    ——— 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) long

    — a pencil (or pen)

    2) Put the paper on the side of your work area

    3) Lay the tape, sticky side up, on the paper

    4) Fold each end of the tape (~1 inch/2.5cm) back under itself, so the folded part faces the paper. Press the folded-back tape onto the paper

    You now have Sneeze & Wind Insurance for your tiny bits!

    5) Put the 2 pentalobes end down on the top end of the tape, next to each other. Push them a little onto the tape so they stick

    6) Use your pencil to note on the paper next to the screws: “1. Pentalobes”

    Now you may proceed with dissassembly, without worrying about telling the 1.5mm from the 1.6mm screws.

    or about sneezing!

    Bass Clef - Contestar

    My phone has a bad battery and a bad connector and I wasn’t able to get all of my photos before it died. Is there any chance I won’t lose them when I replace the battery? Or, is there any way to charge a 6s battery with a bad connector?

    Liz R - Contestar

    There is a great chance that photos, which are stored to flash memory, which is solid state memory, which is not affected when power is lost, will be there, right where you left them, once you restore power to your device. You could install a partially charged battery into your phone and then retrieve the important things, like your photos, if you don’t intend to continue using the phone. Else look at replacing the lightning connector assembly. Here: Reemplazo del ensamblaje del conector Lightning en iPhone 6s

    TimD -

    The P2 is not getting the screws loose at all. I have tried this several times and no budge on my iPhone 6s.

    Cassandra Vigil - Contestar

    To avoid to be screwed by lost or mixed screws:

    - Use magnetic pad, wipeable

    - Write the ifixit- steps next to the screws (maybe even with their sizes) and other bits removed

    with a non-permanent marker

    - When finished, simply wipe the pad, and it’s ready for the next repair

    Hope that helps.

    Ulrich Janßen - Contestar

    I found a pentalobe 1 driver to work much better.

    joelkevinjones - Contestar

    The suction cup didn’t hold at all. I tried Windex and then hospital grade alcohol, but nothing worked. Finally had to use two exacto knife blades to begin lifting the screen. As soon as I got a little gap, used the spudger tool the rest of the way, The small philips driver didn’t fit the screws exactly, but with a little effort they came out. My battery adhesive strips snapped immediately and I had to remove the original battery the “hard way”. The kit came with replacement display adhesive but no explanation how to use it. I got some on - so better than nothing. Overall I’m happy with the results, and the new battery is charging now.

    Daniel Wolf - Contestar

    First step problem? Couldn’t get the screws out. I checked my other iPhone and realized the screws were missing!Just started prying it apart.

    Hoyt Smith - Contestar

    I went through the whole procedure, replaced the battery and got the screen back on. Then the 2 pentalope screws would not go into their sockets. They sink in all the way and spin, but it appears there are no threads to grab. The screen seems to be in position since I can insert a plug into the headphone jack without trouble. Did anyone else have this problem. Using the phone now with no screws. Yikes.

    Walter Plante - Contestar

    Hi Walter, in case you’re still dealing with this or anyone else has the same problem, check that the screw bosses on the bottom of the screen are straight and line up with the screw holes on the case. They should be at a 90° angle to the screen, but they’re easy to accidentally bend and could’ve gotten flattened against the screen.

    Adam O'Camb -

  4. Opcionalmente, aplica calor suave en el borde inferior del iPhone usando un iOpener o un secador de pelo durante aproximadamente un minuto.
    • Opcionalmente, aplica calor suave en el borde inferior del iPhone usando un iOpener o un secador de pelo durante aproximadamente un minuto.

    • El calor suaviza el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, lo que facilita su apertura.

    What about specifying the hot air temperature?

    Nicola Centrone - Contestar

    The glue softens pretty easily, so the exact temperature isn’t critical. Get it slightly too hot to touch. If you have trouble, heat it a little more and try again.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    What temperature on the screen separator lcd machine and for how long?

    Manraj Gulati - Contestar

    This is the first time I opened my 6s since it was purchased new four years ago. Even without heat, constant and firm works enough to be able to squeeze the flat edge of the spudger. From that point and without any additional pulling from the suction, twist the spudger gently to “walk” it open on both sides.

    Family Juinio - Contestar

    I used a hand towel folded in half and a clothes iron on the cotton setting (med-high heat, no steam). Placing the doubled towel between the phone and the iron, I would set the iron down for about 20 seconds (my iron has a timer that beeps when left horizontal for too long). Lift the iron, check the temperature (aiming for just too hot to touch), reposition as needed, repeat. It took me a while, but that’s because I took my time not knowing how fast this would heat. All-in-all, about 2 minutes to reach the right temperature to loosen the adhesive (it IS tenacious).

    Sarah Wruck - Contestar

    Holy. Redii eirhejbrd

    Andy Carson - Contestar

    just been given a 6s to repair, for this stage would a hot water bottle work ??

    Steven James - Contestar

    I used a hot-water bottle to keep the iPhone warm while prying patiently, though the moving surface added to the challenge.

    Before that, I put the iPhone - screen facing down - to warm on the coffee cup heater (45°C) of an espresso coffee machine. Half an hour seemed more than enough.

    A hot-water bottle filled with water at 60°C would do the job I think.

    Later repeated the same heating before removing the adhesive strips under the battery (allowed me to extract each strip successfully, rolling it on the body of the spudger).

    And also before putting the new display assembly adhesive under heavy book weight.

    Aubin -

    I heated a stone pestle in the air fryer, wrapped in a cloth.

    Ark - Contestar

    I didn’t have any of the heating tools listed here so I improvised:

    To soften the glue I heated water in a pan (not boiling but quite hot).

    I put the phone in a thick plastic bag in the water for about 20 - 30 seconds. (I checked the bag was properly watertight first by dipping it in water – minus the phone). Maybe I was lucky but the screen came away easily doing it this way.

    Henrik Dahle - Contestar

  5. La apertura de la pantalla en los 6s separa una tira delgada de adhesivo alrededor del perímetro de la pantalla . Es posible completar la reparación sin tener que reemplazar el adhesivo  y probablemente no notarás  ninguna diferencia en la funcionalidad.
    • La apertura de la pantalla en los 6s separa una tira delgada de adhesivo alrededor del perímetro de la pantalla . Es posible completar la reparación sin tener que reemplazar el adhesivo y probablemente no notarás ninguna diferencia en la funcionalidad.

    • Aplica una ventosa en la esquina inferior izquierda del ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    • Ten cuidado de no colocar la ventosa sobre el botón de inicio.

    • Si tu pantalla está demasiado agrietada, cubriéndolo con una capa de cinta adhesiva podría permitir que la ventosa se adhiera. Alternativamente, puedes usar cinta adhesiva super fuerte en vez de la ventosa. Si todo lo anterior falla, puedes aplicar pegamento fuerte y pegar la ventosa a la pantalla rota.

    Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

    Pablo Reyes - Contestar

    The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

    johnmurphyjr - Contestar

    Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

    Nick Stine -

    Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

    Peter Bovey - Contestar

    For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

    Frank Terence - Contestar

    Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

    Joe Koffee - Contestar

    The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

    Mandy Ng - Contestar

    Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

    Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

    Any info would be appreciated.

    https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

    Michael - Contestar

    I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

    jeffreyleung2002 - Contestar

    I can only suggest to use a hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive underneath the display. Mine was stuck so hard it wouldn't barely move. After warming ist up I could softly pull ist up with way less power

    olonetzky - Contestar

    A question, has anyone had success removing a cracked (not shattered) screen? My phone has a single diagonal crack from the top right corner down to the left side. Will the suction cup still work?

    goblazers - Contestar

    The suction cup material was very stiff and wouldn’t adhere well even after thoroughly cleaning the screen. Applying heat from a hair dryer helped with that, too.

    Karleen Smith - Contestar

    A packing tape handle worked well for me instead of the suction cup. I folded a piece of packing tape in half leaving two ends to stick to the part of the screen indicated for the suction cup placement and used the center fold as a handle.

    Diana Riddle - Contestar

    I found that a 3rd hand helped here. Lots of heat and as others say, a strong, steady pull, but you are only creating a gap to get the spludger in, not ripping the screen away from the body. Once I created the teeny gap I had someone else get the spludger in to hold it open while I shifted my grip.

    Steve - Contestar

    I’ll throw in here for other noobs as someone who just read ALL the comments and had things go pretty well without a hitch.

    Adhesive here goes ALL the way around edge. I think think many people’s frustration comes from in adequate heating and/or only heating the inferior edge area. I went with 5 min of a rice/shoulder thingy, (uniform rectangle folded in half on a plate, 3 min in the microwave) Plate side was hot potato hot and stayed so.

    Other inference and comment curating:

    a. Use pointy spudger end inserted slightly into headphone jack to hold down phone while pulling up;

    b. 2mm lift MAX the insert something to hold while you bring the flat end of the spudger around (I just used the flesh of my finger;

    c. Twist spudger ONLY zero -20 degrees when inserted;

    d. Avoid spudgering above or between the pentab screw holes.

    e. Avoid sticking the spudger in more than 2 mm as you slide up the left and right edges. If you catch, back it out a bit until you can keep sliding.

    Aaron - Contestar

    Also all props to Ifixit for addressing many issues with earlier versions of this and their replacement kit! A lot of complaints are clearly obsolete now.

    And if this your first time block out an afternoon and be glad if it only takes 20-30 minutes. Rushing causes breakage more often than not.

    Aaron - Contestar

  6. Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa con una presión firme y constante para crear un pequeño espacio entre el panel frontal y la caja trasera. Toma tu  tiempo y aplica fuerza firme y constante. El ensamblaje de la pantalla tiene un ajuste más ceñido que la mayoría de los dispositivos y se mantiene presionado con adhesivo.
    • Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa con una presión firme y constante para crear un pequeño espacio entre el panel frontal y la caja trasera.

    • Toma tu tiempo y aplica fuerza firme y constante. El ensamblaje de la pantalla tiene un ajuste más ceñido que la mayoría de los dispositivos y se mantiene presionado con adhesivo.

    • Tirar demasiado fuerte puede dañar el ensamblaje de la pantalla . Aplica suficiente presión para crear un pequeño espacio entre el ensamblaje de la pantalla y la caja trasera.

    • Si tienes algún problema, calienta la parte frontal de iPhone utilizando un iOpener, secador de pelo, o una pistola de aire caliente hasta que esté ligeramente demasiado caliente para tocar. Esto ayudará a ablandar el adhesivo que sujeta los bordes de la pantalla.

    No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

    chuymatt - Contestar

    Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

    plisi - Contestar

    If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

    Bryan - Contestar

    I got a fingernail on the metal edge and that did the trick.

    David Heinbach -

    On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

    scentaur - Contestar

    My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

    Heidi Moser - Contestar

    Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

    amylofton - Contestar

    What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

    Jaredrett - Contestar

    hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

    David Althaus - Contestar

    Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

    Goodluck!!

    -J

    Jaredrett - Contestar

    The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

    Jeff - Contestar

    Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

    Todd Leach - Contestar

    Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

    Mary Blocher - Contestar

    Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

    Tyler Brady - Contestar

    The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

    greghabiby - Contestar

    Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

    Carolann Parran - Contestar

    Me too! Be gentle!

    Matthew Simoenau -

    Me as well, I went very slowly, was working the spudger around the edge and then it shattered. Just going to buy a replacement phone and I was replacing the battery to gift this to my sister as a hand-me-down and now it’s not worth it. Perhaps I can sell the kit second hand…

    kpederso -

    Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

    Eric Olson - Contestar

    Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

    emaneht - Contestar

    Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

    Steve Esson - Contestar

    Yes, I used the tip of a sharp knife as a pry tool to get me started. Since the screen was cracked anyway I figured I had nothing to lose. It went fine.

    David Heinbach -

    Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)

    Christian Woelk - Contestar

    My glass was broken and the suction cup wouldn’t hold on the tape. I used a very thin knife an slowly worked between the glass and the phone frame. Please keep in mind that my phone had been run over by a Ford F150, so I really had nothing to lose.

    Michael Cleveland - Contestar

    What is unfortunately unclear is just how to 1. apply sufficient force and keeping the phone secure with only one hand, 2. whether this is best done on a table to use its opposing surface to secure the phone.

    The suction cup is a worthless tool because flexes too much to provide a good hold. Mine slipped and popped away three times. -The last time causing a crack in the screen.

    ffissk - Contestar

    Glad I read these comments about the screen cracking because I was really trying to force this thing open (with some heat applied already), but it wasn’t budging. Kept applying heat and light force and eventually it started coming apart. The suggestion for placing the pointed end of the spudger in the headphone jack while prying up worked for me and an extra set of hands would have been ideal.

    In the end, with the spudger in the headphone jack, placed a guitar pick in between the screen and the backing and slid it along the bottom left. Left the tip of the guitar pick in to hold the gap and then was able to use the spudger to complete the process as shown.

    Nicholas Anchor - Contestar

    Beware! I cracked the screen. Used iOpener, iFixit spudger etc. I managed to get the spudger into the gap by the headset socket and worked my way up the left, when I came to do the right the screen was cracked. I was taking it slow and steady but clearly that wasn’t enough. Be VERY careful.

    James - Contestar

    Heat is essential, and take it very slowly. Also take seriously the instruction to open just enough to get the spudger in there—then do the real work with that. The suction is just to get started. I had my son insert the spudger as soon as there was any gap at all, then worked it according to the guide.

    I did this on a card table with a vinyl surface so I could lay the phone down. Then I held the metal frame on both sides while pulling the suction cup—my son having the spudger at the ready. Definitely be patient! I had to restart several times when the suction cup popped off and I accidentally reengaged the clips pressing it back on.

    Matt Burleson - Contestar

    I didn’t have any of the heating tools listed here so I improvised:

    To soften the glue I heated water in a pan (not boiling but quite hot).

    I put the phone in a thick plastic bag in the water for about 20 - 30 seconds. (I checked the bag was properly watertight first by dipping it in water – minus the phone). Maybe I was lucky but the screen came away easily doing it this way.

    Henrik Dahle - Contestar

    I did the hair dryer three or four times and applied all of the pressure i could on the suction cup and it just wouldn’t budge. My phone is old and i had a waterproof case on it for a long time that really pressed down on the glass so it would seal. I think having that on for three or more years really sealed the glass!!!! Didn’t want to break it so will live with my battery as is…..it last most of the day and i am usually around a car charger or home. Just thought i would add a comment that said man i gave it my best shot and opted not to do it. I really liked the kit though and the tool will come in pretty handy to repair other small things.

    David Petr - Contestar

    This was waaaaay the hardest bit for me. Took ages Almost gave up. Allow AT LEAST twenty minutes. Endless patience pulling, then resting for a bit then pulling again. S.T.E.A.D.Y Keep at it long after your inner voice is saying ‘why did you think you could do this. You have never mended anything in your life.’ Then you see the gap and like a steady bomb disposal expert you quietly winkle it apart.

    Cindy Clarke - Contestar

    Used heat from a hairdryer, gentle pulling to lift the glass at the position above the headphone jack one to 2 millimetres with the suction cup, then put my thumbnail in the gap and pulled up gently a bit more to fit the spudger, and mainly slid the spudger as indicated around the glass, bottom first, and then sides to within about a centimetre of the top at most, to release the display. I found very little prying is needed. Once a gap of about a millimetre or 2 is created, that is enough to release the display from the adhesive.

    Nando - Contestar

  7. Hay una pequeña muesca en la parte inferior de la pantalla, justo por encima de la toma de auriculares. Este es el lugar más seguro para comenzar a hacer palanca para abrir el teléfono. Coloca el borde plano de la herramienta spudger en el espacio entre la pantalla y la caja trasera, justo encima de la toma de auriculares.
    • Hay una pequeña muesca en la parte inferior de la pantalla, justo por encima de la toma de auriculares. Este es el lugar más seguro para comenzar a hacer palanca para abrir el teléfono.

    • Coloca el borde plano de la herramienta spudger en el espacio entre la pantalla y la caja trasera, justo encima de la toma de auriculares.

    WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

    As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

    Jason - Contestar

    If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had a badly cracked screen. Packing tape helped the suction cup stick. Heating the phone helped soften the adhesive, and in the end I pried the screen up at the headphone jack with a sharp pointy knife. That helped me get the spudger underneath. Not recommended if the screen is ok, like for a battery replacement, but mine was cracked so I figured I had nothing to lose. Great guide.

    David Heinbach - Contestar

    There are two relatively delicate brackets that the two P2 Pentalobe screws screw into. They can be easily bent during this prying open process. I ruined one on my phone and I’m hoping the phone will function with just one bracket.

    dougdalglish - Contestar

    +1 on the pointy knife to get the screen pried up. I couldn’t get the suction cup or tape to adhere well enough due to the glass being so shattered. I heated it for quite a while with the hair dryer on high, got a very sharp knife tip under the glass where the “notch” is, and used that to pry upward while another person slid the end of the spudger into the gap I was holding open with the knife. This one step was basically a three-handed job.

    johnjustinirvine - Contestar

  8. Tuerce el spudger para ensanchar la brecha entre el panel frontal y el resto del teléfono. Tuerce el spudger para ensanchar la brecha entre el panel frontal y el resto del teléfono.
    • Tuerce el spudger para ensanchar la brecha entre el panel frontal y el resto del teléfono.

    No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

    Martin Born - Contestar

    should have a warning to be very gentle when doing this as the screen is glass - i shattered my screen following this guide

    Martin McAnespie - Contestar

    Do not twist spudger! Broke my screen. Thanks, iBrokeIt.

    Trevor Snow - Contestar

    As others have said, do not twist the spudger. To release the display, you only need to create a gap of a few millimetres. Better to slide the spudger as directed to release the adhesive, bottom left and right.

    Nando - Contestar

  9. Inserta el extremo plano del spudger en el lado izquierdo del teléfono , entre la pantalla y la caja trasera. Desliza el spudger por el costado del teléfono para separar el adhesivo y hacer saltar los clips.
    • Inserta el extremo plano del spudger en el lado izquierdo del teléfono , entre la pantalla y la caja trasera.

    • Desliza el spudger por el costado del teléfono para separar el adhesivo y hacer saltar los clips.

    I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

    Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

    Martin Born - Contestar

    Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

    Bryan Solo -

    Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

    Kevin - Contestar

    Your phone died

    Ipod Touchh0 - Contestar

    ok but where js the oart about puttung ut back together? mine diesnt snapinto place,……

    makinfilms - Contestar

    Use two spudgers.

    One placed in the original breech position to be used as a wedge.

    The other to get worked around the unit.

    These spudgers are going to get destroyed in the process and will not likely be great for another repair.

    ffissk - Contestar

  10. Retira el spudger y vuelve a introducirlo en el borde inferior, en  donde esta ya el teléfono abierto. Desliza el spudger hacia la derecha, a lo largo del borde inferior del teléfono.
    • Retira el spudger y vuelve a introducirlo en el borde inferior, en donde esta ya el teléfono abierto.

    • Desliza el spudger hacia la derecha, a lo largo del borde inferior del teléfono.

  11. Desliza el spudger por todo el lado derecho para seguir separando el adhesivo y hacer saltar los clips de la pantalla del teléfono . Desliza el spudger por todo el lado derecho para seguir separando el adhesivo y hacer saltar los clips de la pantalla del teléfono .
    • Desliza el spudger por todo el lado derecho para seguir separando el adhesivo y hacer saltar los clips de la pantalla del teléfono .

    This is some important step here I reckon. I didn’t release the clips individually and gradually, so when I pulled, the two halves of the phone separated quite suddenly and the cables ripped in half. Had to order a screen.

    Neil Bass - Contestar

    How do I release the clips individually? Is there a good explanation?

    Dan Schwartz - Contestar

    i personally use a utility knife and it helps separate the metal bracket that's on the screen from the phone housing

    Andre G. Bashore -

  12. Utiliza la ventosa para abrir la pantalla y separar todo el adhesivo. No abras la pantalla más de 90º , ya que todavía está conectada por dentro, en la parte superior, por tres cables que se podrían romper si se tira demasiado.
    • Utiliza la ventosa para abrir la pantalla y separar todo el adhesivo.

    • No abras la pantalla más de 90º , ya que todavía está conectada por dentro, en la parte superior, por tres cables que se podrían romper si se tira demasiado.

    Prop it up on something

    Nick Stine - Contestar

    an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

    Christa - Contestar

    You could use a clock weight with 2 socks wrapped around it and an elastic band to keep the screen at a 90 degree angle.

    AudiRo808 - Contestar

  13. Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa  para sacar el panel frontal. Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa  para sacar el panel frontal.
    • Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa para sacar el panel frontal.

    Pulling up on the “nub” is a futile waste of time.

    ffissk - Contestar

  14. Agarra suavemente el ensamblaje de la pantalla y tira de él hacia arriba para abrir el teléfono , utilizando los clips en la parte superior del panel frontal como una bisagra. Abre la pantalla en un ángulo de 90º , e inclínala  contra algo para mantenerla apoyada mientras se está trabajando en el teléfono. Añadir una banda de goma para mantener la pantalla en su lugar mientras se trabaja . Esto evita la tensión indebida en los cables de la pantalla .
    • Agarra suavemente el ensamblaje de la pantalla y tira de él hacia arriba para abrir el teléfono , utilizando los clips en la parte superior del panel frontal como una bisagra.

    • Abre la pantalla en un ángulo de 90º , e inclínala contra algo para mantenerla apoyada mientras se está trabajando en el teléfono.

    • Añadir una banda de goma para mantener la pantalla en su lugar mientras se trabaja . Esto evita la tensión indebida en los cables de la pantalla .

    • En caso de necesidad , se puede utilizar una bebida en lata sin abrir para mantener la pantalla.

    Smart idea :)

    x226 - Contestar

    on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

    Mirza Zohaib - Contestar

    It said about 90 degrees

    Nick Stine -

    Actually it literally says, “Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.”

    David -

    In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

    jonl - Contestar

    Be careful when separating the halves not to pull off the black tape on the back of the screen half. Mine was stuck to the two halves and I thought it was double sided tape to holding the halves together. It was shredded in separating the 2 halves. It turns out it covers up some kindof of silver paste (purpose unknown) on the back of the screen so I cut a put a piece of plastic film to match it and taped it in place. We’ll see what happens…

    Jamey Gerlaugh - Contestar

    can of soup and rubber band did the trick.

    Big Al - Contestar

    this is bs as they do not tell you reverse how to snap the fuker back on…..putting it in back on!,!!! the guy asks for points for writing thus? why not make a video you dirk….and how to put it back on….what about the other adhesive?..? you moron it says mothing…anyone else have a link? oi could barely put the screws back in..

    takimg the fuker apart is easy….putting the $@$* together again? humpty dumpty!”!!!

    makinfilms - Contestar

    When replacing the screen, make sure to get the top (camera side) lip in first, then work downward along the sides, getting the edge with the home button in last.

    johnjustinirvine - Contestar

    i normally use the long pick as a prop like that on a vehicle

    Andre G. Bashore - Contestar

    It should be noted that to camera end of the screen body needs to hook under the edge of the body…..the hooks of the screen frame need to be under the rim of the main body and snugged toward the camera end to easily close the cover and have it properly clip. These hooks are not really a proper hinge but clasps that need to be under the rim of the main phone frame/edge!! This way the screen easily will return to its closed state nicely gently snapping into place!!

    BRIAN Lee - Contestar

    EVERYONE read this comment. It is KEY.

    Also reverse order for getting screen clipped back in means pressing along the right side top to bottom corner. Then the left. Between that and this comment sandwiches back in like a cinch.

    Aaron -

  15. Retira los dos tornillos Phillips 000 que fijan el soporte de conector de la batería:
    • Retira los dos tornillos Phillips 000 que fijan el soporte de conector de la batería:

    • Un tornillo de 2.9 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.2 mm

    • Durante esta reparación, mantén un registro de cada tornillo y asegúrate que vuelvan exactamente de donde vinieron para evitar dañar tu iPhone.

    In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

    lionno1 - Contestar

    Please! Please! Please! Invest in a Magnetic Project Mat or its equivalent from fixit. It will assist you with completing your repair.

    Ian Baldwin - Contestar

    I just taped down a 8.5 x 11 white piece of paper on my desk and drew a rough image of it, then ‘taped’ the screw I removed to the “image” on paper. It worked just fine. (My first time ever opening an iphone, so give it a shot!)

    italianchick99 - Contestar

    If you missed it from the beginning (like I did) it’s the #000 Philips for all screws except the Pentalobes.

    Max Cox - Contestar

    if you get a plastic ice cube tray, and a fine marker pen, text the sizes on each cube compartment as you follow the guide, also stops the screws getting lost

    Brendan Cranny - Contestar

    used sheet of A4 paper and bluetak - stick screw in bluetak, write location & size on paper

    Kev Salmon - Contestar

    mine is missing a screw!!! this is bs! this was mynmithers ohone nonone ooened it….one screw only…im liesed offf

    makinfilms - Contestar

    For some odd reason the screw “One 2.2 mm screw “ orange circled seems to be stuck and can not be unscrewed.

    Ahitagni Mandal - Contestar

    that could be because of the threaded part might have been broken (i've run into that a few times) never fun but pretty easy to work around it if needed

    Andre G. Bashore -

    Take a picture of the opened phone. Print it out. Put double sided clear tape over the picture of each screw. Stick the screws to the tape on the picture where they belong.

    Jeffrey Smith - Contestar

    Rounded corner, both here and Display cover, takes the Longest screw.

    David.

    David - Contestar

  16. Retira el soporte del conector de la batería del iPhone. Retira el soporte del conector de la batería del iPhone.
    • Retira el soporte del conector de la batería del iPhone.

    Little bit of adhesive holds this down- you do have to use the tiniest bit of force.

    Edward Coe - Contestar

    Pay careful attention to the orientation of this plate so that when it comes to re-installation you put it back the correct way. Sounds obvious but I’ve found it inverted in one customer’s phone, which led symptoms of charging failures and repeated spontaneous restarts.

    Jonathan Bradley - Contestar

    that's something i've never heard happening before wow

    Andre G. Bashore -

    The replacement battery’s connector is just slightly thicker vs the original. When I put the screen back on (also a replacement part from Ifixit) I get a blue shadow because the battery connector is putting pressure on the screen.

    steven pruchniewski - Contestar

  17. Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el conector de la batería haciendo palanca hacia arriba de la placa lógica . Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el conector de la batería haciendo palanca hacia arriba de la placa lógica . Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el conector de la batería haciendo palanca hacia arriba de la placa lógica .
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el conector de la batería haciendo palanca hacia arriba de la placa lógica .

    Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

    Andrew spoelstra - Contestar

    Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

    William Turner -

    It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

    Frank - Contestar

    Thanks for the tip, Frank.

    William Turner -

    SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

    enoughstatic - Contestar

    It sounds like several people, including myself, had trouble charging the new replacement battery past about 10%. This ended up being due to the new battery not having a non-conductive insulator. The way to solve this is by adding a small piece of electrical tape to cover the battery connector before screwing in the battery connector bracket over it. You may want to do this on the first go-around.

    If you do experience that problem, I found the answer here and it worked perfectly: iPhone battery not charging after DIY battery replacement. Why?

    Heather Pastushok - Contestar

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Contestar

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Contestar

    To reduce risk of battery arcing , as soon as the old battery connector was detached, I wrapped it with insulation from connection all the way to the battery body. Did the same with the new battery to eliminate concerns about shorts while checking fit position to assure the connector would match up with the receiver. Only removed the insulation after all other connections had been restored, so plugging in the battery was the last step before closing the case.

    Robert Dering - Contestar

  18. Empuja el conector de la batería lejos de la placa base hasta que se quede separada de su zócalo , a fin de evitar cualquier conexión accidental a la batería mientras trabaja. Empuja el conector de la batería lejos de la placa base hasta que se quede separada de su zócalo , a fin de evitar cualquier conexión accidental a la batería mientras trabaja.
    • Empuja el conector de la batería lejos de la placa base hasta que se quede separada de su zócalo , a fin de evitar cualquier conexión accidental a la batería mientras trabaja.

    If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

    If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

    Edward Dziuk - Contestar

    Amazing tip Edward, I followed your tip exactly and agree to definitely remove the “TAPTIC”

    italianchick99 -

    Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

    Rajendra - Contestar

    How in the world does one reapply the edge adhesive without making a mess?

    gary - Contestar

    I misread the directions and pulled off the whole large sheet first. I was able to align the bottom of the smaller sheet into the edge of the phone and get the adhesive into the right area. It was a little tricky but once it dropped down it was in the right place. I would have liked an indication of which was top and which was the bottom of the adhesive. The corners seemed slightly different and I aligned the bottom ones carefully.

    Diana Riddle -

    the new battery from ifixit came with a dented connector and wont connect to the logic board. What do I do?

    Adam Frederick - Contestar

    are you suuuuuure you didn’t dent the connector? i know if i had received a battery with a dented connector, i’d immediately contact the seller so you probably dented it yourself and now you’re trying to trick all us but we’re on to you.

    unibody deluxe -

  19. Retira los cuatro tornillos Phillips que fijan el soporte de cable de la pantalla
    • Retira los cuatro tornillos Phillips que fijan el soporte de cable de la pantalla

    • Tres tornillos de 1.2 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.8 mm

    Thank you for this great guide!

    I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

    So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

    scentaur - Contestar

    You need to remove the screen completely if you want to replace the adhesive gasket around the outer phone edge.

    Glen Paetz -

    The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

    Harry Allinson - Contestar

    I’m also having this issue now, what did you do to get the screw out?

    Belmin Husanovic -

    Sounds common but no solution? I keep working at it but no luck. Anyone find a way in the last few years?

    Kurt Mickelson -

    There’s no trick… Make sure you’ve got the right driver, press down HARD, and crank it. If it’s stripping, check your driver and consider moving up one size. Resources: Screwdriver Best Practices & How to Remove a Stripped Screw - Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

    robertdjclark - Contestar

    Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

    David Shaddock - Contestar

    The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

    anujfolsom - Contestar

    I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

    GiovanniB - Contestar

    You need to remove the screen completely if you want to replace the adhesive gasket around the phone’s outer edge.

    Glen Paetz -

    I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

    Anyone have the same issue?

    Evander Lorenz - Contestar

    A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

    Peter Bovey - Contestar

    what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

    mshary alzhrany - Contestar

    The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

    Matthias Wagner - Contestar

    I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

    Scott Young - Contestar

    @scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

    Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

    Thomas Kintigh - Contestar

    I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

    Peter Bovey -

    The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

    laffinbuz - Contestar

    I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

    Alex Mufatti - Contestar

    @alexmufatti I had the same exact issue and luckily came across the same solution by trial and error. However a few weeks later Touch ID suddenly stopped working again and I think it’s the same issue. I was hoping somebody came across a more permanent solution.

    Michel Chemas -

    I was nervous not following this guide step-by-step, but as others mentioned I did not have the correct ‘bit’ size to remove the 3 screws circled in ‘red’ in the above diagram. I skipped steps 17, 18, 19 BUT used the ‘tip’ in step 11 to prop the front screen without removing the front display completely and I was still able to replace battery.

    italianchick99 - Contestar

    how to measure the screw? from the head or from under the head?

    Balieltello - Contestar

    Measurements in the guide are for the entire length of the screw, including the head, as measured with an ordinary digital caliper.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I was unable to remove the display cable bracket. Therefore I was unable to remove the display, which meant I couldn’t replace the screen seal. ☹️ The small Phillips bit seemed too pointed so it couldn’t get into the screw deep enough to grip. The second Phillips bit was too big. It makes me wonder if I got the correct tool kit with my battery replacement kit.

    Mark Morris - Contestar

    The display does not have to be removed! If you secure it in place with a rubber band as advised (actually one at the top and one at the bottom works best - stops the bottom half of the phone sliding towards you) , it will quite happily sit there while the battery is replaced. It’s definitely better not to have to remove and reconnect those display connectors!

    J-P jpfromadelaide - Contestar

    I’ve done this with an iPhone 5 and an iPhone 6S. I did not remove the display either time; I was afraid of damaging something unnecessarily. It’s definitely not necessary to remove it! I had an extra set of hands and eyes to help me be careful, but if you get the battery adhesive strips off cleanly, it’s easy to leave the display on.

    Matt Burleson - Contestar

  20. Retira el soporte del cable de la pantalla. Retira el soporte del cable de la pantalla.
    • Retira el soporte del cable de la pantalla.

    What can I do if one of the screws get stripped?

    Zoe Shadzad - Contestar

  21. Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger, o una uña , para desconectar el cable de la cámara de flexión delantera haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde la base correspondiente en la placa lógica. Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger, o una uña , para desconectar el cable de la cámara de flexión delantera haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde la base correspondiente en la placa lógica.
    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger, o una uña , para desconectar el cable de la cámara de flexión delantera haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde la base correspondiente en la placa lógica.

    Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

    David Rogers - Contestar

    I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

    Kenneth Hilstan - Contestar

    pad under earspeaker is lost, where to buy?

    Balieltello - Contestar

    For me, both the camera flex cable and the digitizer cable from step 20 came out together. Made me wonder in step 20 where was the cable I needed to release :-)

    Jean-François Schmitz - Contestar

    Are there any tips for plugging the connectors back in, besides don’t push on the center of the digitizer? It felt like I could really mess up the pins if they weren’t aligned correctly and I tried to push them in too firmly.

    Diana Riddle - Contestar

  22. Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger, o una uña , para desconectar el cable digitalizador haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde la base correspondiente en la placa lógica. Cuando vuelvas a conectar el cable del digitalizador, no presiones el centro del conector. Presiona un extremo del conector y después presiona el extremo opuesto. Al presionar el centro del conector puede doblar el componente y causar daños al digitalizador.
    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger, o una uña , para desconectar el cable digitalizador haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde la base correspondiente en la placa lógica.

    • Cuando vuelvas a conectar el cable del digitalizador, no presiones el centro del conector. Presiona un extremo del conector y después presiona el extremo opuesto. Al presionar el centro del conector puede doblar el componente y causar daños al digitalizador.

    I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

    gbmazur - Contestar

    Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

    David Shaddock - Contestar

    Patience. I had trouble but after some time got it back in. Didn’t have to rearrange anything like above ^. Maybe the design was changed.

    Cbirdsey - Contestar

    I have no audio through the earpiece after completing the process. I have removed and reseated all cables several times. What’s wrong?

    Tobin Antpusat - Contestar

    Same problem…. any suggestions?

    Antonio Sacchet -

    My touch id does not work anymore after battery replacement. Can it be that its due to badly connected digitizer cable to connector? Everything else seems to work perfectly. Thanks

    cyp - Contestar

    I can get one end of the thing to fit in to place, and then when I move over to push the other side down, the first side pops back out.

    Samuel Martin - Contestar

    I've got the reassembly order backwards and installed the battery first, and the digitizet seccond. I think I fried something, because smoke came out of the socket. Can anyone tell me what needs to be replaced?

    Christiaan Erkelens - Contestar

  23. Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o reconectar el cable es este paso. Desconecta el cable de pantalla haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o reconectar el cable es este paso.

    • Desconecta el cable de pantalla haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

    Bailey Duncan - Contestar

    There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

    Scott Young - Contestar

    My replacement screen had only two connectors while the old screen had 3. I sent it back for replacement. Not sure what went wrong here, because everything else fit perfectly. So what model could this replacement screen have been intended for?

    Martijn Vos -

    I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

    Amanda Cooper (Doula) - Contestar

    Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

    Alex Tanner -

    I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

    Dennis Gagomiros - Contestar

    You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?

    goesprotocall -

    My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

    cellabella1 - Contestar

    The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The important warning about making sure that the battery is disconnected may be more beneficial at the BEGINNING of these instructions.

    ffissk - Contestar

    I mean if you follow the guide it literally says to disconnect it first. Step 15

    Nick -

    There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process. My replacement only got 3, what should i do?

    Vincent Ladida - Contestar

  24. Retira el ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

    cdinger - Contestar

    There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

    Ira Goldman - Contestar

    Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

    Ira Goldman - Contestar

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

    Bryan Solo - Contestar

    My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

    Ben - Contestar

    When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

    Joep Willemsen - Contestar

    be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

    Christa - Contestar

    If reapplying adhesive, I would strongly recommend that you wait until you are reassembling the phone. Otherwise, trust me, it gets really sticky and limits your mobility around the phone. I had it all over my fingers by the time I finally got the old battery out and the new one in.

    Justin Tilghman - Contestar

    Removing the battery was a challenge as the old adhesive snapped before it came out so I had to use a hair dryer to warm the adhesive before slowly peeling the battery off. I still manage to puncture the batter and nearly had a fire. When inserting the new battery I didn’t leave enough room for the connector to fit beside it so I had to pull it off, plug the connector into its port, then insert the battery. I think the instructions should warn you to leave enough room for the connector to tuck in beside it.

    The kit came with a new adhesive gasket but I could not find the instructions on how to install it. But after 45 minutes I had it done and my iPhone 6S is back in working order. Don’t forget to ‘hard’ reset the phone on start up, run the new battery all the way down. Otherwise this is a very good value time and money wise.

    Ramon Pabalan - Contestar

  25. Usa la punta de una espátula para levantar y desconectar el cable de la antena de la parte inferior de la placa lógica. Para reconectar cables de antena como estos al zócalo, alinea con cuidado el conector al zócalo, después usa la parte plana de una spudger para empujarlo hacia abajo. Debe hacer click cuando entre en su sitio. Si no, comprueba la alineación. No uses fuerza excesiva.
    • Usa la punta de una espátula para levantar y desconectar el cable de la antena de la parte inferior de la placa lógica.

    • Para reconectar cables de antena como estos al zócalo, alinea con cuidado el conector al zócalo, después usa la parte plana de una spudger para empujarlo hacia abajo. Debe hacer click cuando entre en su sitio. Si no, comprueba la alineación. No uses fuerza excesiva.

    Do not remove the isolation on top of the antenna or it will stop working. If you already removed it, use a piece of isolation tape to isolate it again.

    Jan - Contestar

    There is no instruction on how to reconnect this antenna cable, and it is proving extremely difficult, at least for myself… Please help!

    Brennan Lutkewitte - Contestar

    To reconnect antenna cables like these to the socket, carefully align the connector to the socket, then use the flat end of a spudger to press down. It should click in place. If not, check for alignment. Do not use excessive force.

    Arthur Shi -

    What does this cable do?

    Because accidentaly broke mine, but everything working fine, just want to be sure , what does it for!

    I broke at the end, when the gold round is. Somehow i placed the cable with that round ring , just to be sure , thst there is some contact with it, and pluged in!

    I know, i need to change the whole bracket with charging port etc., to fix the cable, cause i cant solder the conector back. But maybe i can just ignore the cable?

    sekuent - Contestar

    Hi Sekuent,

    That cable attaches to possibly cellular antennas. It may be that certain bands are impacted by the break.

    Arthur Shi -

    Some more research may indicate that it may instead be the 2.4GHz Wi-Fi bands.

    Arthur Shi -

    Can i solder the wire with the plug round myself? Is it safe to do that?

    sekuent - Contestar

    If you have soldering skills, definitely! Note that you have to solder the wire to wire. You can’t solder the wire to the round plug as it’s ground and not signal.

    Arthur Shi -

    When installing my new lightning port board, I had to rescue the isolation from my previous one. It came off fairly easily with tweezers.

    Edward Coe - Contestar

    When reassembling, this is where I’m spending most of my time. Really tedious to reconnect. Ended up using a loop to precisely set the connector.

    step inthelight - Contestar

  26. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar y desconectar la tira del cable del conector Lightning de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar y desconectar la tira del cable del conector Lightning de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar y desconectar la tira del cable del conector Lightning de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    new ribbon cable doesn’t fit!

    Allen Grant - Contestar

    I am having the same issue…

    Colin McCornack - Contestar

  27. Si estas siguiendo esta guía para reemplazar el conector Lightning, puedes elegir mantener el cable de la antena conectado y saltarte este paso y el  siguiente. Ten mucho cuidado para no deformar el cable de la antena cuando muevas el altavoz. Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar y desconectar el cable de la antena de su zócalo cerca de la parte de arriba de la placa lógica.
    • Si estas siguiendo esta guía para reemplazar el conector Lightning, puedes elegir mantener el cable de la antena conectado y saltarte este paso y el siguiente. Ten mucho cuidado para no deformar el cable de la antena cuando muevas el altavoz.

    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar y desconectar el cable de la antena de su zócalo cerca de la parte de arriba de la placa lógica.

    Do not remove the isolation on top of the antenna or it will stop working. If you already removed it, use a piece of isolation tape to isolate it again.

    Jan - Contestar

    The note here should read “you can choose to keep the antenna cable connected and skip this step and the next one” (steps 27 and 28). The way it reads now, “you can choose to keep the antenna cable connected and skip the next two steps”, makes it seem that you should skip steps 27, 28, and 29, which is clearly incorrect.

    Bom Tomdabil - Contestar

    Hi Bom,

    That’s a great suggestion! Thanks! I will update the step.

    Arthur Shi -

    What is this antenna for?

    Daniel Gyabaah - Contestar

    Hi Daniel,

    This should be the Wi-Fi diversity antenna, which improves Wi-Fi performance.

    Arthur Shi -

    Ah alright, on mine I've got this black foam on on top of it, is it true that if I remove it will stop working?

    Daniel Gyabaah -

    It might! The foam acts as an electrical insulator. Keep it on the connector.

    Arthur Shi -

  28. Levanta con cuidado el cable de la antena y sácalo a lo largo del borde del teléfono. Usa la punta de una espátula para ayudar a levantar el cable para liberarlo de los clips de sujeción. Si el cable no tiene demasiado espacio para ser levantado, afloja el tornillo Philips que sujeta la placa lógica para que ésta de mas espacio para menear el cable. Asegúrate de volver a apretar este tornillo durante la reinstalación.
    • Levanta con cuidado el cable de la antena y sácalo a lo largo del borde del teléfono. Usa la punta de una espátula para ayudar a levantar el cable para liberarlo de los clips de sujeción.

    • Si el cable no tiene demasiado espacio para ser levantado, afloja el tornillo Philips que sujeta la placa lógica para que ésta de mas espacio para menear el cable.

    • Asegúrate de volver a apretar este tornillo durante la reinstalación.

    • Durante la reinstalación. asegúrate de poner el cable de la antena por debajo de la esquina de la placa lógica.

    • Durante la reinstalación. también puedes reinsertar la bandeja de la tarjeta SIM después de recolocar el cable de la antena.

    • Si notas cualquier resistencia, para y asegúrate de que la bandeja no esté enganchando el cable de la antena.

    Why would it be necessary to remove the antenna cable from the top for this repair? I did it whilst leaving it in.

    Edwin - Contestar

    The antenna cable is taped to the speaker module in an inaccessible location. While it is possible to pull the cable out of the tape binding, doing so may break the cable. We opted to remove the cable with the speaker as a workaround.

    Arthur Shi -

    is it necessary to somehow try to get the antenna back into the retaining clips? I can’t say I can even see where they are.

    Tonya - Contestar

    Hi Tonya,

    It is not necessary for the general operation of the phone. Keeping the antenna in the clips may help with grounding and keeps it in place so that you can easily insert/remove the SIM tray without snagging it. Wherever the antenna cable turns silver on the strand, there should be a corresponding clip underneath it.

    Arthur Shi -

    What if when taking the antenna out, it looks to have removed a tiny section of the black shielding? Do I need to replace the antenna?

    Martin - Contestar

    HI Martin,

    The antenna has specific areas where the shielding is intentionally missing. These areas snap into corresponding clips on the phone frame.

    Arthur Shi -

    It’s not where the clips are, it’s right where it goes under the motherboard, so I am worried it might short the motherboard.

    Martin -

    You are most likely fine. You can use some electrical tape on the cable to help prevent any accidental contact.

    Arthur Shi -

    Same here - I replaced the speaker without taking the antenna cable out (which would have had me break the cable for sure).

    Richard Guenther - Contestar

    I ended up snapping the antenna cable. What do I do now?

    Nolan Ferox - Contestar

  29. Quita los siguientes tornillos Philips que sujetan el altavoz a la carcasa trasera.
    • Quita los siguientes tornillos Philips que sujetan el altavoz a la carcasa trasera.

    • Dos tornillos de 2.6 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.3 mm

    • Este tornillo podría estar cubierto con algo de cinta aislante.

    • Un tornillo de 2.3 mm

    • Este tornillo es diferente del anterior. Asegúrate de no mezclarlos juntos

    • Un tornillo de 3.0 mm

    I did not realize there was film over the screw and thought my phone just didn’t have the screw, which caused me to bend the speaker bracket; it would be very helpful to include this information.

    Matthew Dessem - Contestar

    Hi Matthew,

    Thanks for the feedback! I’ll add that in.

    Arthur Shi -

    So, there’s a hidden screw, anyone know what the tape/film is called? Mine ripped and I want to replace it.

    Samuel Creel - Contestar

    Orange 2.3mm screw has a broader head than the yellow one.

    Mark Slaughter - Contestar

  30. Inserta el lado plano de una espátula entre el borde largo del módulo del altavoz y la pared de la carcasa. Haz palanca suavemente para aflojar el módulo del altavoz. Una vez que el módulo del altavoz este suelto, levanta y quita el módulo del altavoz del teléfono.
    • Inserta el lado plano de una espátula entre el borde largo del módulo del altavoz y la pared de la carcasa.

    • Haz palanca suavemente para aflojar el módulo del altavoz.

    • Una vez que el módulo del altavoz este suelto, levanta y quita el módulo del altavoz del teléfono.

    I could not completely remove the antenna cable (attached to the speaker) without removing other components. I just left the speaker and antenna cable dangling while I replaced the lightning connector.

    Tyler Clayton - Contestar

  31. Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips de 1.5 mm que sujetan el Motor Táptico a la caja trasera. Remueve el Motor Táptico.
    • Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips de 1.5 mm que sujetan el Motor Táptico a la caja trasera.

    • Remueve el Motor Táptico.

  32. Remueve los siguientes ocho tornillos Phillips:
    • Remueve los siguientes ocho tornillos Phillips:

    • Dos tornillos de 2.9 mm sobre la toma de auriculares.

    • Un tornillo de 3.7 mm sobre el soporte de la toma de auriculares.

    • Dos tornillos de 1.4 mm en el borde del iPhone.

    • Dos tornillos de 1.9 mm en ambos lados del conector Lightning.

    • Un tornillo de 3.0 mm a la izquierda del conector.

    Make sure you separate the “blue” (3.0mm) screw from the “red”(2.9mm) screws—they are next to impossible to tell apart by eye.

    Alexander Anderson - Contestar

    As you remove the 3.7 mm screw(orange) be careful of the bracket(Step 51) as it sometimes lifts with the screw and you will need it for re-installation.

    Bryan Solo - Contestar

    Don’t get these 2.9 mm screws mixed up with the 2.9 mm screws holding in the battery connector bracket from step 15. Unlike those, the ones in this step are not threaded along the whole shaft(?). This does make them pretty easy to tell apart, though.

    Bom Tomdabil - Contestar

  33. Quita el soporte de plástico del micrófono.
    • Quita el soporte de plástico del micrófono.

  34. Calienta un iOpener y aplícalo en la parte trasera del teléfono cerca del borde inferior por un minuto.
    • Calienta un iOpener y aplícalo en la parte trasera del teléfono cerca del borde inferior por un minuto.

  35. Insertar una púa de apertura de plástico entre el borde de la caja trasera y el cable flexible. Presiona suavemente la púa por debajo del cable flexible para romper el adhesivo que lo sujeta en su lugar. Presiona suavemente la púa por debajo del cable flexible para romper el adhesivo que lo sujeta en su lugar.
    • Insertar una púa de apertura de plástico entre el borde de la caja trasera y el cable flexible.

    • Presiona suavemente la púa por debajo del cable flexible para romper el adhesivo que lo sujeta en su lugar.

  36. Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger entre el ensamblaje del conector Lightning y la caja trasera para romper el adhesivo restante. Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger entre el ensamblaje del conector Lightning y la caja trasera para romper el adhesivo restante. Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger entre el ensamblaje del conector Lightning y la caja trasera para romper el adhesivo restante.
    • Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger entre el ensamblaje del conector Lightning y la caja trasera para romper el adhesivo restante.

    The replacement lightning assembly has a factory plastic seal over the new adhesive—be sure to remove it before installing the new one.

    Alexander Anderson - Contestar

    Well spotted, thanks!

    NMranchhand - Contestar

  37. Usa el extremo puntiagudo de un spudger para sacar la toma de auricular de su zócalo en la caja trasera. Usa el extremo puntiagudo de un spudger para sacar la toma de auricular de su zócalo en la caja trasera. Usa el extremo puntiagudo de un spudger para sacar la toma de auricular de su zócalo en la caja trasera.
    • Usa el extremo puntiagudo de un spudger para sacar la toma de auricular de su zócalo en la caja trasera.

    There’s a rubber “o-ring” type gasket that goes between the plastic tube of the 3.5 mm housing and the bottom of the iphone where it leads out. Carefully remove it and replace it on the new lighting connector/3.5 mm housing tube before installing.

    Alexander Anderson - Contestar

  38. Usa la punta de un spudger para separar el jack de cascos del borde inferior de la caja trasera. Usa la punta de un spudger para separar el jack de cascos del borde inferior de la caja trasera.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para separar el jack de cascos del borde inferior de la caja trasera.

    Theres a little buffer/washer thing on the back of this piece. Make sure to pull it off and re-use it on the replacement piece! The microphone won't work well without it.

    Jeff - Contestar

    On the replacement lightning assembly, this microphone has a factory plastic seal—remove it before putting on the buffer/washer thing mentioned above.

    Alexander Anderson - Contestar

  39. Quita el ensamblaje del conector Lightning. Si tu pieza de recambio no trae una junta de goma, usa unas pinzas para quitarla de la pieza antigua y ponla en la pieza nueva. Antes de instalar o reemplazar el ensamblaje del conector Lightning, usa una herramienta de plástico para eliminar cualquier resto de residuo adhesivo de la carcasa trasera detrás del cable.
    • Quita el ensamblaje del conector Lightning.

    • Si tu pieza de recambio no trae una junta de goma, usa unas pinzas para quitarla de la pieza antigua y ponla en la pieza nueva.

    • Antes de instalar o reemplazar el ensamblaje del conector Lightning, usa una herramienta de plástico para eliminar cualquier resto de residuo adhesivo de la carcasa trasera detrás del cable.

    There is a small plastic spacer for the microphone that might come off with Lightning connector assembly. If it does you can simply pull it off and apply it to the new assembly.

    Huntster - Contestar

    The lightning connector does not have a gasket but instead some adhesive. You will need to replace this as it creates a seal between the connector and the frame.

    Bryan Solo - Contestar

    Putting it back together, I did Step 38 first, then put the yellow, green and blue screws from Step 32 to hold everything in the right place. This forced the microphone ribbon cables to flex, moving the microphones into exactly the right place - I could then remove the film to expose the adhesive on the microphones and be confident they were sticking to the right spot. I then put in the spacer as in Step 33 and then the remaining three screws from Step 32. Somebody might point out a problem with this - but it seemed to work out ok for me. I could still take the film off the main adhesive backing for the whole assembly and stick it down in the right place.

    Quintin Cutts - Contestar

Conclusión

Compara tu nueva pieza de repuesto con la pieza original. Quizás necesites transferir otros componentes o quitar respaldos adhesivos de la nueva pieza antes de la instalación.

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue las instrucciones en orden inverso.

Lleva tu basura electrónica a un R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

¿La reparación no fue como esperabas? Mira nuestra iPhone 6s Answers community para la resolución de problemas.

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Arthur Shi

Miembro Desde 03/01/18

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the reason is the antenna is connected to the loud speaker but you can lay it out of the way, remember do not rip the cable that is attached to the speaker

Wilson Gilley - Contestar

Can you just plug the new assembly in to check it, before going through the whole installation?

cropcord76 - Contestar

ya man, just be careful, make sure battery is disconnected before connecting or disconnecting anything

Andrew -

I did this repair and everything went fine. The user now has issues with callers hearing them. Is there a cover/sticker over the microphone on the ifixit replacement part? Speaker works and he can talk on speaker phone with no issues. Any ideas?

bofootball57 - Contestar

Did you pull the old adhesive off before reinstalling using the new adhesive? Did you align each mic correctly?

chamilton89@gmail.com -

Had no problems, swapped out the port. I also skipped 21-47 but found there were one or two small things in there that needed to be done to remove the lightning port. Uncovering the screw was one one of them, but I forget the other. The hardest part for me was getting the screen up, but a little heat from a hair dryer helped loosen the adhesive. After that, pretty smooth sailing. Anyway, easy enough to do and the phone works again. Nice.

Pete - Contestar

Followed the guide, didn't encounter a problem with skipping from 21-47 - but now i get a really weak cellular signal (changing from searching or no network to just no mobile data or no reception at all), even after ordering 2 more Lightning Port Assemblies and giving them a try...

I'm not sure if it's a grounding problem or because i didn't wear gloves, but i've read that there are more people with the same problem under the discussion of the iPhone 6 Lightning port change. Is there anyone who could help me?

Jan Hiebert - Contestar

is there a way to check the new part, i completed everything and still is not working?

Ryan - Contestar

did anyone have issues reattaching the antenna cable to the socket for reassembly in step 35? how do i line it up correctly? i can't seem to get it to stay.

also, perhaps related, the headphone jack and microphone do not work after i completed the switch. bluetooth calls work fine, and the speaker works but not the headphone jack or the microphone.

kapluni - Contestar

Hi Kapluni, Did you get an answer to this? I don’t seem to have any damage but it just doesn’t seem to “click” into place.

Ronan Kenneally -

Skipped 21-47. Put back together, had issues with putting antenna back (step 35). Now the phone will not even turn on. Plugged to a power source, says to plug in to iTunes. Plug in to iTunes...nothing. Says it's in recovery mode. No clue what to do. Did not back up the phone, as my MacBook air is late 2011 and the iTunes will not recognize the phone anymore since last update. My fault for not backing up on new computer,,,about to lose all information. Any ideas?

Jason Schroeder - Contestar

SKipped 21-47, only trouble was plugging antennae back in but stayed patient. Did the lightning headphone, battery and screen all together. Took about an hour or so.

joshuabogage - Contestar

Hi, I tried to repair the Lightning. No problem exept that the power source is not recognize. I can’t charge the battery. I think the piece is a bad one…. I put the old Lightning and the charge is OK but i have to put back the wire with a tool.

Chacal - Contestar

Everything went smooth, however something weird is happening now. When recording a video everything works fine, but when recording a video on Instagram, there is a very loud noise (like rain) and the sound is barely audible, you can’t hear pretty much nothing. Any idea of what the problem might be?

kraki - Contestar

OK that was really hard! Yes, it pains me to admit it but I am at a point in my life where the ability to repair a phone doesn’t really serve my ego. I did all the steps because I didn’t notice the comments section until I got to step 56. Had I to do it over I would have made little trays for each type of screw and not tried to store them with associated parts during disassembly. This alone is why reassembly alone took me 3 hours! I keep swapping out screws to cover for bad guessing. Phone seems to work fine on day one. Here’s hoping for another two years of service!

Eric Anderson - Contestar

Regarding the little antennae terminals. These require patience. I had convinced myself that I had bent the tiny little male prong and that was why it wouldn’t seat. It was fine. The design is not that weak. It just takes a steady pressure while every angle is tried.

Eric Anderson - Contestar

Great guide and pictures, except you dont need to remove the logic board! I wish i had read these comments before starting :( Also a good idea to sort the screws!

Gabe Vacaliuc - Contestar

As others have remarked, removing the logic board is totally unnecessary, and makes this repair so much more complicated (and risky). The speakerbox does not have to be disconnected at all, you can just put it aside carefully. Apple included extra length of cable to allow for that.

Even though it’s well made (and no doubt well intended) I think this tutorial should be revised or removed to correct this wrong approach.

In the mean time, a better video is this one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J41KaLOR...

Manon Schuitema - Contestar

This worked perfectly. Thank you.

Mark D Flannery - Contestar

First full teardown of a clients device! Only been doing this for about a week. THANK YOU SO MUCH for the great guide! Didn’t miss a screw!

Brandon Tuey - Contestar

Question- does the lightning connector cable adhesive not come in this kit? It wants me to buy it separately but then is out of stock. I would think that a kit would have everything I need so I’m confused. Thanks.

ElleT - Contestar

Thank you so much for the great explanations and wonderful pictures - I wouldn’t be able to do this repair without it. It took me a while, and I took my time, but it ended on a very happy note with a fully functioning phone with a lightning port that will actually charge my phone! This was a great repair guide

Tim Griffin - Contestar

This was an easy and complete/successful repair without taking out the logic board. Just be careful not to completely take out the speaker assembly; just move it up enough to pull up the ribbon cable below it. For my replacement part, I used one from another phone so I did this twice.

Breadman - Contestar

Did anyone have a headphone jack problem where you turn the volume up and you can’t hear anything?

Neo_Tech - Contestar

Had same issue with the headphone jack! The phone recognizes headphones are plugged in, and volume controls / pause and play work, but I don’t hear any sounds out of it. Did anyone find a solution to this problem?

Jake Liu - Contestar

Merci pour ce tutoriel parfaitement illustré de magnifiques photos. Merci au traducteur, les photos ne suffisent pas toujours !

Réparation effectuée avec succès. C’est quand même réellement difficile et il faut absolument prendre son temps, surtout si c’est votre première réparation de ce type. Il faut être particulièrement délicat avec les connecteurs, surtout ceux de l’écran. Perso un des trois était abimé d’un côté (assemblage d’origine mal fait) et j’ai dû reformer le téton central écrasé d’un côté pour dégager un des minuscules connecteurs. Opération sous loupe binoculaire, ça aide ! :)

Les antennes sont les plus difficiles à rebrancher. Deux minuscules prises coaxiales qu’il faut aligner parfaitement pour les connecter et c’est pas évident car à l’œil nu on ne voit pas bien ce qui ce passe. Regarder à la loupe comment ces prises sont faites aide beaucoup à comprendre comment les positionner avant d’appuyer pour les connecter. Soyez très prudent.

Philippe Galmel - Contestar

Did the whole thing, managed to get it done, but charging was still iffy, and both the haptic engine and speakers stopped responding

Simply re-opened and re-seated everything, while being extra careful, and boom. It all worked perfectly!! Thanks :)

Naysan Jones (NaysWindu) - Contestar

So elaborately explained. Thank you!

hizburrahmanjibon - Contestar

Ciao! Io faccio il tutto senza rimuovere la scheda madre dell'iPhone. Questo comporta dei problemi?

Grazie.

Michelangelo - Contestar

Nessun problema!

Arthur Shi -

Step 28 tells me to complete remove the antenna cable, although I didn’t do this and was able to complete the rest of the procedure.

DARWINLAM - Contestar

My iPhone did not charge anymore, so I changed the Lighting Connector and the battery. After the repair, I connected it to my Macbook. It turned on again, but it still does not load. Did someone have a similar problem and maybe a solution for me? Many Thanks! Best regards, Felix

Doc Brown - Contestar

did you allow your computer to access the iphone?

Sam Tang -

Giuda molto dettagliata, ma credo ci siano molti più passaggi del necessario (ho trovato una guida in cui estraeva il flex di ricarica in circa 15 minuti, senza togliere né batteria né scheda madre)

jack91.7 - Contestar

The yellow screws in Step 32 is sooo tight, I found it so hard to remove.

Sam Tang - Contestar

Replaced the lighting connector. After reassembly, everything fine except the phone says “No SIM”. Ideas?

Jim .B - Contestar

If nothing was broken inside, try removing, cleaning it with a soft cloth and place it again. Hope it works

Angel -

This is one of those guides where just saying reverse the steps at the end really isn’t adequate. This was especially true in regards to how to reposition the microphones, when to pull adhesive backing, and how to place the screen adhesive. If a reference to a another guide is needed (such as with replacing the screen adhesive and closing the case) it should be linked directly. Please don't make us go hunting for the correct guide.

Michael Clark - Contestar

Overall…It was very straight forward and I was able to remove and install the new charge/headphone jack in about 30min. However, there are three things that were different and/or not mentioned: 1) Step 29 - the screw that has the orange circle around it may be under a thin piece of adhesive…just lift up the corner and you’ll see it; 2) Step 38 - directly to the right of the headphone jack is a small black piece of plastic that may come out when you remove the entire assembly - this piece needs to be separated from the ribbon and placed back into the case next to the headphone jack area. You’ll see that the in the new ribbon, there’s a tab next to the grey jack that folds at a right angle and presses against this black plastic piece; and 3) Step 27 - when you install the new ribbon, plugging the antenna cable back into the board is not easy…take your time to line it up correctly and try to push straight down and not at an angle. Good luck!

Reet Das - Contestar

Hey, what are the foam pads and adhesives needed for and in which steps are explained how I have to assemble them? In other videos I don’t see anyone using those… I’m confused.

Alex - Contestar

If you are comfortable with repairs and are carefull during the procedure, you don’t need to disconnect the display. Use an elastic band to hold it straight against a box, see last picture in step 14, it saves some time. I managed to do it in 45 minutes.

Gilian Mischker - Contestar

So I went through the steps and my phone is working great except… the speaker isn’t working. Before I go checking all of the antenna connectors and guessing which one might be the issue can anyone tell me what could have potentially caused this issue? Thank you in advance!

Calum Johnson - Contestar

Hi Calum!

The loudspeaker has two spring contacts that push against two pads on the Lightning assembly cable. Sometimes these are covered by a protective liner that should be peeled off. Make sure that the spring contacts are aligned and that they are long enough to touch the pads. I would also re-seat the Lightning assembly cable connector.

Arthur Shi -

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