The copper tape is really not a connector. It is a heat shield that spreads heat. Just try to attach it so it overlaps. It does not affect any connection.

Be aware that the LCD is extremely fragile. I have done this many times and it took some time for me to understand why when I tested the screen before installation it was perfect. Then when I glued it and had put some pressure on it to stay fit, I ended up with a defective screen. Be ultra carefull when you press the screen into place. Only press on the very edges! Or else you easily damage the LCD. I have tested both cold and hot adhesive and both make a good fit. They say the adhesive that needs heat can make the device waterproof but I would not even try to get the device waterproof again. You just have to accept that maybe some spill-proof, but nobody can guarantee the Z phones will ever be waterproof when you have opened them, removed seals for camera etc. I always tell my customers that.

What do you mean by "LCD strip"? Connector?

It usually is the foam is missing from the digitizer cable (step 13). Important to move that over from the old digitizer since it helps to assure a good connection, presses and holds the connector in place. I would check that again.

You can install OS X 10.7 LION and no later version. Although LION runs ok with 2GB RAM it does help to get 1GB + 2GB = 3GB. Even if you install 2 X 4GB you will only utilize 3GB. Installing a SSD seems to make no difference since the SATA bus is only 1.5GB/s. A good 5400rpm disk is good enough. I even run BootCamp and Windows 7. Works fine. Not fast but fine. My A1212 refuses to die :-)

Yes, damaged mine too. It is better to take it out of the LCD and install it carefully on the logic board, then install it to the LCD.

It is fine to remove the cable from the logic board when when you remove the screen. But when when assembling back together I found it better to take the LVDS cable out of the LCD and install it carefully on the logic board. Then connect it to the top of the LCD. Also the connector to the LCD is much more solid and not so easy to bend.

Please note that there are guides here to replace the CPU with a i7 2.93GHz on the iMac. This is specifically for the iMac 27" 2010 and NOT the 21.5". Even though the CPU has the same socket and fits in the ZIF socket there is a big difference between the 27" which uses a 95watt CPU and the 21.5" that only supports 74watt. So your only choice is to upgrade to a i5 3.6GHZ.

Position the home button and push the panel onto it. Remove the portion of film from the digitizer, adhesive from the home button, then push down in place the bottom of the screen so the home button sticks to the digitizer. If you position the home button on the digitizer it will be more trial and error.

When closing the digitizer it is essential that you have tucked the digitizer cable into the opening between the frame and the LCD. Or else you can experience a small raise on the digitizer where the cable goes down.

- Be careful that the adhesive along the panel does not stick to the cable

- Position to close the side of the panel where the cable is

- Use the plastic opening tool to fold in the cable underneath the LCD. This cable is more robust than e.g. the iPad Mini digitizer cable. There is an opening between the frame and the LCD where the cable runs down to the logic board

- Make sure the cable is running downward into the iPad. There should be no folded cable on the frame but into the gap.

Close the side and adjust the panel to the other side and position it in place. This way you avoid any bulge on that side of the digitizer and it will sit perfectly.