Hallo. Ich las dass es beim Surface Book 2 das Problem geben kann, dass ein Akku nicht mehr lädt, dann bei 0% steht, und...

First, the hand flies away more and more. Then, the hand disappears completely. No more tracking. Knocking on the unmoved...

Zuerst fliegt die Hand immer öfter weg, dann verschwindet die Hand ganz. Kein Tracking mehr. Klopfen auf den unbewegt...

Laut Hersteller gar nicht mehr, seit jetzt CV1 aktuell ist: "Die DK2 ist/war ein Entwicklerkit und ist nicht mehr erhältlich. Einen Reperaturservice bzw. Ersatzteileverkauft gibt es nicht." Sagt "Sigmund" vom Oculus Support. Ich habe den Eindruck hier geht es auch nur um zerlegen und Einzelteile ersetzen. Dabei wäre eine Fehlerdatenbank auf Basis zu suchender Fehlerbilder sehr wichtig. So dass man auch einen Lötkolben etc. einsetzen kann. Und auch nicht vor dem Wechsel von Chips zurück schreckt. Wie bei der XBox360, wo es auch schon Menschen gibt, die daheim mit der Heißluft-Pistole BGA-Chips austauschen.

Is it true that the battery in the Surface Book 2 has frequently failed completely?

No charging possible, always 0%.

When a battery ages, you can still charge it to 100%.

Very fast (bad), but “full”.

A total failure would rather be the battery management system.

I wonder if there were also failures of the charging current to the battery, i.e. a defect on the circuit board of the tablet screen.

That would be annoying, of course, because you can't just fix the fault by replacing the battery.

But replacing the entire battery would also be annoying if only the BMS is defective.

All you need is a replacement with comparable values and size, which you solder into the center of the battery.

And what about the assembly?

Are there adhesive strips in this form?

Or should you just use BT-7000 liquid glue?

I bought this for a Samsung Galaxy Note-9 to seal it watertight again after replacing the USB port.

Is it waterproof with new adhesive film? Isn't it better to use a liquid glue like B-7000 or T-7000?

Ist es wasserdicht mit neuer Klebefolie? Ist es nicht besser, einen flüssigen Kleber wie B-7000 oder T-7000 zu verwenden?

Hello.

Where can I find motherboard repair instructions? First the tracking had dropouts, then the controller completely and permanently lost the pairing.

This is the second controller where this has happened.

That must be a lack of series. So someone has to know the reason. Has nobody really solved this problem with soldering iron etc.? Or do professionals keep the cause of the error secret (greed)?

Unfortunately there are only disassembly instructions on this website.

But no real repair instructions. Details of the real cause of the error.

Maybe it helps to bake the motherboard at a certain temperature?

I see the broken copper foil everywhere (in tutorials). Does this have no purpose?

Below it seems to be a kind of graphite coating.

Why is not the copper foil replaced?

The copper foil does not appear to fulfill a true purpose of attachment. Otherwise, the copper foil would have to be firmly connected to the back of the display. I do not recognize any benefit in the adhesive "M".

I have removed the demolished parts from the adhesive "M", and fixed it (with fine gaps) again with tape in the "hole". Now it crackles something when I press on the not yet newly glued screen.

Ich sehe überall in Anleitungen die defekte Kupferfolie. Hat diese keinen Zweck?

Darunter scheint eine art Graphit-Belag zu sein. Warum wird die Kupferfolie nicht ersetzt?

Die Kupferfolie scheint keinen echten Zweck der Befestigung zu erfüllen. Sonst müsste die Kupferfolie fest mit der Displayrückseite verbunden sein. Ich erkenne keinen Nutzen im Klebe-"M".

Ich habe die abgerissenen Teile vom Kleber-"M" entfernt, und es (mit feinen Lücken) wieder mit Klebeband im "Loch" befestigt. Nun knistert es etwas, wenn ich auf den noch nicht neu fest geklebten Bildschirm drücke.

Is there a tutorial for more professional tools?

Exact temperatures and times for the chip surface and the down side of the board (with K-Type thermo couppler under kapton tape) with a IR-Rework-Station, perhaps also for hot air.

With a liquid flux, a dual digital thermometer etc..

That is not "High-End" stuff, this is possible for normal people.

I think, a liquid flux is the minimum for better results.

I have this stuff, but not a "recipe".

I think, it could also useful for "cardboard" (Google) experiments.

I will order some lense, but I am indecisive which diameter etc..

For cardboard the Google guys says 1" (25,4mm), But this is only the durovis dive lens kit.

that must not be the best. At SurplusShed I can decide between many diameters and focal points.

If we had the diameter, focal pint, and if possible the other data like lens (middle) distance to screen, Eye distance to lens (middle) etc. we could "tinker" a cardboard version for Android based on the oculus rift measurments.

"What's the lens diameter and focal length and approximate magnification?"

I am also interested in this information.

Diameter and focal lenght. And perhaps the distance between the middle of the lens and the surface of the screen.