Isaac

I was hoping someone might help me find a troubleshooting breadcrumb to follow. I don’t want to have to take it entirely...

First, ensure your paper stock is compatible with the printer. If it is, then try to determine where it is jamming. Most often dirty or worn rollers and/or fuser units are the culprit.

Do you see the part on this diagram? If so, this site should help identify it and may offer it for sale It appears that that is part of the magazine assembly. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/ryobi-p320-cordless-brad-nailer-parts-c-7931_8022_289668.html

If you are sure the chips are not getting too hot, then the issue could be a bad thermal sensor. Now if you are judging it’s “heat” from outside the unit, it may actually be having an issue. A lot of PS4’s have had fans that fail or improper thermal paste. The fan is, by far, the cheapest thing to replace. The thermal sensors are built into the motherboard. About Booters: Booters find the WAN IP address of your network and flood it with garbage data. Essentially, it is a Denial of Service attack. This alone does not change anything inside your PS4, so the current issue is unrelated and the timing coincidental. To protect your IP address, you could use a VPN service. Once they have your real-world IP, there is not much you can do to stop the DoS attack. If you have a dynamic IP address with your ISP, you could try leaving your modem offline for several hours to see if it gets a different IP address when powered back on. Also, you can ask your ISP to assign a new IP address, just explain what is happening.

The TI 84 has battery-backed storage. If you replaced the backup battery, or it has died, you may not have any data to recover. You can’t chip-swap it, since that would also lose the battery power. It seems that, to get inside the device, you’d end up disconnecting all batteries. Here is a video that may help revive it, but would still lose any data on it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxHstNp9...

Both graphical processing units (GPU) are on the motherboard. One is part of the Intel Chipset and is not hardware accelerated. The more powerful GPU is usually an AMD or NVidia GPU. When you had them replaced previously, the mainboard was likely replaced to do so. These units have a poor design where the GPU and CPU share a thermal pipe. If the CPU is running hot at the same time as the GPU, the GPU does not cool adequately and it’s Ball Grid Array (BGA) solder can melt. This sounds like what you have experienced. The only real solution to replace the GPU is to replace the mainboard or send it to a repair technician that can re-flow the BGA chip (not guaranteed to work, and may recur later). If you attempt this yourself, you will want the correct tool. Don’t stick it in an oven, get a BGA reflow. station

The type of solder is not very important. Lead-free solder can be harder to work with and requires a higher temp. Leaded solder is not environmentally friendly, but is much easier to work with. To start with in soldering, you want to remove the old solder and apply flux before re-tinning and soldering the part. This video series is quite old, but is really the best tutorial series I have ever found for soldering. I know it is a bit boring, but it is well laid out. They don’t go into lead-free solder, as it was a new concept when these videos were made. Lead-free has a different luster to it and a bit higher temps required to melt, so a ‘Good’ joint with lead free will not be as shiny as with leaded solder and this is normal. PACE - Basic Soldering Lesson 1 - "Solder & Flux" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6M... My personal favorite solder: Kester 24-6337-0010 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020

It comes down to a couple of determining factors. If you need the data loaded into RAM swiftly, you will want it on the SSD. If the item is read occasionally, or only at start-up (example Excel document when opened loads to RAM and works in RAM until saved. It does create backups in the OS drive, though) then the platter drive is best. If you are a gamer, you could benefit from storing your most RAM intensive games on the SSD, as well. If you are a creative, things like Adobe Scratch Disk files would be best on the SSD. IMHO: SSD: OS, Apps, Games, Scratch Files (Virtual memory files) for some apps HDD: Long-term storage, items that are small, backups, archives, etc.

Related post may help you Won't power up and only 1 diagnostic LED

This is definitely a hardware issue, however it could be any of: (1) A problem with the display (2) A problem with the cables (3) A problem with the Thunderbolt-out from the computer Start with the easiest/cheapest to check, then move on. Try manipulating the cable when it is connected to see if it exacerbates the issue or, as @Danj said, try a different cable (In case your replacement cable was defective as well). You don’t need to buy the official cable until you have troubleshot the issue. The official one is just a normal thunderbolt cable with a power-side chain. If you have any other known-good cable, you can test the function with it before buying yet another replacement. If you have another computer to test with that display, or another display to test with that computer, it would help to rapidly narrow things down. FWIW, I have worked on several thunderbolt displays and I have only encountered 2 issues: # Broken glass # Bad cable Replacement cables can be found in various places, including Amazon:...

If you are talking about the gear-looking part on the drive shaft that meets with the bottom of the blade assembly, it is called a coupler or coupling. I haven't found one for Ninja, but there are a lot for kitchen aid and waring around. I would wonder if one of these is 'compatible'. Example: https://www.ereplacementparts.com/coupli...-p-2142318.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwrKr8BRB_EiwA7... Update (10/17/2020): Similar question: The flexable rubber coupler has broken.. In that, this guide is referenced which includes a rebuild of the planetary gear assembly. I see now this is what you really needed https://sites.google.com/site/dgeake51/h...-blender-repair

Note: The Brown/Black pair highlighted in the picture is for the AC connector. For the MagSafe power, you want to disconnect the double-black wire connection. Another way to distinguish if colors differ is that the MagSafe connection has a much larger connector on it.