Where it says

“2015 models have a silver grounding clip with two foam pads directly under this screw“

I have a 2015 MacBook & the grounding clip is not there!

I’m using this guide to investigate why there are lines on screen or darker screen at certain angles of opening it. Also a background ghosting effect on screen too.

No obvious damage or loose connectors so wondered if the lack of grounding clip can cause these symptoms?

Anybody out there know?

Never managed to get it off. But Lucky to have a screwdriver with a pull out flexible end which made unscrewing the T8 screws on the bracket the easiest option.

Then lift drive up at bracket side, leaving bracket in place.

Didn’t seem any reason for the fiddly de-routing of the cables so I just left them which caused no problems.

To confirm (uk) T7 for the retaining post screws.

To confirm - no need for a spacer for a 7mm drive the retaining post keep it in place, then there is just a bit extra 2mm “space” above (or below , depending on your perspective) the drive :-)

With no SATA connector to clone straight to the new drive before removing, which would be simplest way IMO.

I cloned to an external usb drive > fitted new drive > started up while holding alt key, choose the external usb clone as the startup OS > cloned that usb drive to the new internal drive> shut dow> unplug usb > startup > bingo!

Used trail version of “Carbon Copy Cloner” to do this.

Q to O line of keyboard keys intermittently functional & no joy following other suggested steps on iFixit or else where so last resort to resolve was get a new Uppercase with keyboard keyboard/backlight/speakers/mic still attached - grabbed a good deal on eBay for £25.

Looks a scary job but with patience & reading comments it’s all sorted & working now.

Watch out for the Philips screws on the trackpad - see comments on that stage.

Thanks

I recommend for the two speakers & mic connectors place thumb nail on top while prying up so you can gauge the upwards pressure better.

I recommend for the two speakers & mic connectors place thumb nail on top while prying up so you can gauge the upwards pressure better.

also generally before trying anything scary double click the picture & zoom in so you can see better what you’re dealing with. Or even get your phone magnifier to zoom in on to your tricky parts.

In replacing the palmrest / top case with keyboard & speakers already attached, undoing these 6 screws off the trackpad were by far the most difficult step. Mine were sooo tight in.

Tips to avoid stripping the heads & not being able to get them out without drilling them out :-

1 use the magnifier on your phone in one hand while gently testing the size & capability of your screw driver. I ended up using one I had for an iPhone 4s -don’t no size but it looked small enough to be 00 or 000.

2 while still using magnifier go gently but firmly while looking for it slipping out then release & apply pressure on the turn & repeat this until it starts to turn.

3 if really tight like mine I did the old mechanics trick of using a “Manchester Spanner” (hammer) to dislodge rusty bolts/screws. While the tip of driver is in the cross correctly (use a magnifier) tap the top of driver with something as form as you dare - I used an egg cup as that was to hand!. My screen was not attached at this point!

4 still use magnifier when replacing screws

To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

also

P4 = 0.8

P6 = 1.5

Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2