For replacement bearings, I used bearingboys.co.uk part OB081220 metric oilite plain bearing and cut/filed to the correct length. Initial size was 8mm ID, 12OD and length 20mm. It was a long time ago, but I see they still have them £1.61 +£3.95pp. Also known as AM0812-20. Cheaper on eBay 99p each free pp and choice of length 8/12/16/20mm.

If the motor is stuck it maybe that the (zinc?) casting joining the motor to the pump has fractured. I guess you need to open the casing to confirm. An epoxy resin glue and reinforcement might fix it. But why did break…. defect, misalignment, worn gear, lubrication ?

Ps I have not opened this pump.

A comment that was given to me was that if the casing was made of ABS (or some other plastic) it could be solvent welded with acetone - so called solvent welding. I don't know what the material was made of, but it's worth checking.

The Turkish above auto-translates as “The device works but does not heat. Resistance is solid. It may cause malfunction”

I’m guessing from this that the thermal fuse may have blown or a switching component (triac?) may have failed.

Item no 282639524834 on ebay.co.uk

Sold by clicksuperstore_ltd

Thanks for pointing that out Andy, it was my fault. It should work now.

The timer adjustment screw may have unscrewed itself as the locking glue may have failed after more than 30 years. I used a tiny ball of blutack pushed into the cavity to lock the screw head.

The touch lamp I repaired had a slightly different lighting control box labelled MT-1009A (perhaps it was just an off/on). Anyway I followed the same procedure as above and soldered in a new 3 pin triac (BT134 PH600E) and all worked well. Good pictures, thanks

Three LG strips for a 32" TV for example cost £25. It is possible to replace the failed led. My led's were in series, so if one fails open-circuit, all the led lamps in the strip go out. If one strip goes out so do the other strips). You have to be careful when testing them to ensure you don't put too much current through them or the led's will fail. You can buy special led testers and soldering stations, but they are not absolutely necessary. Pry off the plastic lens then modify a soldering iron (I used a 25W). I undid the screw on the soldering iron to remove the tip, and used the screw to attach a piece of metal with a flat area of size of the lens , bending the metal to get the best thermal contact with the iron. Then I lay the copper side of the strip opposite the failed led on the hot flat metal. It took about 5mins to melt the solder and slide the failed led away. The led must be replaced by a new led or one melted off another scrap strip. Re-glue on the lens. Used led's will have shorter life.

With a hand lens I can see the the plastic coils, which are otherwise in good condition, have worn flats at their edges where the taper on the slider pushes the coils together. Is there similar or worse wear on the metal slider? Seems unlikely. Do replacement sliders have a slightly narrower taper to allow for the worn plastic? If the replacement metal slider is the same size as the original I can't see why it would solve the problem of poor meshing of the coils when under slight load.