Dificultad
Moderado
Pasos
65
Tiempo Requerido
45 minutos - 2 horas
- Back Panel 8 Pasos
- Shield Plate 2 Pasos
- Nintendo Switch Lite Battery Disconnection 3 Pasos
- Heat Sink 3 Pasos
- Game Card Reader and Headphone Jack 3 Pasos
- Motherboard Assembly 14 Pasos
- Right Joystick 2 Pasos
- Left Joystick 16 Pasos
- Screen 14 Pasos
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Introducción
Follow this guide to replace a faulty or damaged screen on the Nintendo Switch Lite.
The Switch Lite uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.
Note: Removing the joysticks and buttons isn’t required, but it makes this repair much easier.
Note: If the display glass is cracked or shattered, but the screen still works, you’ll need to replace the digitizer instead.
Note: This procedure requires removing the shield plate and heat sink. The thermal paste will need to be cleaned off of both components—as well as the CPU—and reapplied before reinstalling the shield plate and heat sink.
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Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the back panel.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the back panel:
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Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the top of the device
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Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the bottom of the device
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Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of the device.
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Twist the opening tool to release the clips securing the back panel.
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Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device.
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Insert an opening tool into the right speaker grille on the bottom of the device.
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Twist the opening tool to release the clips.
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Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device.
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Lift the bottom edge of the back panel, opening it like a book.
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Remove the back panel.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
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Three 3.1 mm screws
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One 4.5 mm screw
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
I turned the unit off beforehand, I used tweezers just like the instructions said (ifixit branded) , my device sparked and now it won’t turn back on
The flap came off is it important or is there a way t fix it?
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
Caution the connector may not be properly soldered onto the motherboard. For me it snapped off the pins and now have to find a place to get that fixed if even possible. may have bricked it.
Yup, broke the connector right off the motherboard. Thanks, ifixit -_-
I backed out when I reached this point. I couldn't risk damaging it. Do u just need to pull it up? Did you mean that it might have been soldered shut below?
You should just need to pull straight up, but make sure you’re pulling on the wires or the gray plug—do not pull on the black socket or it can snap off of the motherboard.
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Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan.
When reassembling, the foam may fold down between the fan and heatsink, blocking airflow. Gently lift the foam back up on top of the fan. The adhesive film should hold the foam together.
Is removing the heat sink absolutely necessary?
It’s not necessary, but it makes it much easier to remove and replace the game card reader, since the heat sink partially covers the connector.
Not really…….. I never remove it. It slides out quite easily once disconnected.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the right trigger button assembly to the motherboard.
I think a whole step to remove the game card reader and speaker jack was skipped here…
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.
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Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard.
There’s a step missing after this to remove the screws that hold the orange game cartridge slot. Those 7 screws have to be undone and the ribbon unclipped first before moving on to the next step.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable's ZIF connector.
skipped a step or two about removing the golden piece in the photo above, and the other little board
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following six screws securing the motherboard:
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Three 3.1 mm screws
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Three 4.5 mm screws
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the joystick.
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Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to pull the left speaker cable straight up and out of its socket on the daughterboard.
pulled from the connector, not the wires, and ended up ripping them off the connector anyways since it encountered tension from the other end (the gray chamber on the left)
consider doing step 15 before pulling the wire, just in case.
Why even disconnect this cable. Not worth the risk leave it connected to daughter board.
while doing this I ripped the pad on the circuit board off. Should i risk trying to repair it or should i just try to go without the speaker???
I also accidentally ripped off the connector, disabling the left speaker. However, that will not break any functionality of the switch. The right speaker works just fine on its own (just remember to turn the audio to mono in system settings) and I was successfully able to replace the joystick. Although the audio quality is a little bit depleted, you barely notice it if you turn up the volume a little, and I think being able to actually MOVE FORWARD in my games is a better plus than having louder, stereo, audio.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flaps on the two ribbon cable ZIF connectors.
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Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the volume buttons.
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Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the left joystick cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide the left joystick cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.
The connector for my left joystick broke. Is there a way to fix it?
How badly did it broke?
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the left trigger button assembly.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
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Two 4.5 mm screws
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Two 6 mm screws
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Use your fingers to lift the daughterboard up and out of its recess to remove it.
Stop here if repairing Switch Lite for joycon drift. After removing daughter card you can see the bottom of the joystick. This thin metal actually bends during use causing bad connection of joystick. If you cut out a business card the same size as the joycon and put it on the bottom of the joystick it gives the metal enough backing to fix the issue. I used two layers with just a small bit of glue stick to adhere it. Put it all back together and you will find your issue is fixed.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the left joystick.
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Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
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Three 2.5 mm screws
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One 6 mm screw
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At this point in the repair, remove all of the buttons if you haven't done so already, to prevent them from falling out and getting lost.
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Heat an iOpener and place it on the back side of the screen along the top edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Lite Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Lite Answers community for help.
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11 comentarios
Followed the guide to replaced a cracked screen on a Switch Lite, all good, guide was easy to follow and refitting wasn't too hard either, just a reversal of the disassembly
Fantastic guide, exactly what I was looking for! Unfortunately I managed to make the tape unusable and I need tape to connect the lcd to the digitizer and the digitizer to the case. I will likely use 2-3mm tape for the lcd to digitizer but I'm unsure what to use to connect the digitizer to the case. Any suggestions?
Thanks for taking the time to type this up. Really appreciate the effort that went in to this guide.
Great guide, I wish it would mention some of the procedures to tape the screen back in. After that, reversing the process was easy.
For gluing the screen and digitizer back in, I would strongly recommend liquid glue, like Zhanlida T-8000 for example. You can apply it very precisely and you can also correct/remove it if needed pretty easily. I used this stuff to repair around 200 phones and tablets in the last couple of years and were never disappointed.
Also I would remove the digitizer AND the screen together, before removing the screen first from the digitizer… This will make the process of removing the screen from the digitizer a lot easier and safer.
I have ordered a crystal replacement case and a used lite with a scratched digitizer.. Have glued in the replacement digitizer so far, the console should arrive tomorrow.
Gluing in the digitizer was a breeze, just applied some glue all around (be careful not to use too much) and then just pressed down the digitizer all around and put a book on the top… Let the glue harden for around 24 hours and you are good to go.
Will leave some feedback how the screen removal went tomorrow. ;)
Yeah.. The display was actually glued completely together with the digitizer! So not just only on the sides, but on the whole display with an UV reactive transparent glue, like with most smartphones nowadays…
This way this whole tutorial obsolete, because there is almost no way you can remove the digitizer from the display an vise versa…
Also my suggestion was totally right to remove the digitizer and display together.. The way it is shown here is absolutely over complicated.
Maybe the UV glue is used in a new revision ifixit wasn't aware of, but this has to be updated!!!
So I Need to replace Just the glass over the screen but I cant find a replacement or a guide
I just did this repair the other day. You would still need to follow this guide because of the ribbon cable you need to plug in. You just need to take the digitizer off in the end. I would buy an lcd just incase it breaks while trying to get it separated which there is a good chance that will happen.
I was wondering if 99% IPA could be an issue to a screen, I am definitely an amateur at this but originally I was going to replace the joysticks and wanted to clean the console.
In a moment of carelessness I spilled IPA on the midframe assembly and some on the side, which seeped to the screen. I had accidentally doused the screen with a relatively small amount of IPA but I dried off what I could and turned on the screen successfully but there was a light colored splotch on the screen. After a couple of days the splotch on the screen is much smaller but it doesn’t seem like it will go away, is this permanent damage? I am wondering if it is possible to clean or fix this, if I get under the screen is it possible to clean, fix it or do I need a new LCD?
Thank you for any guidance in advance.
What about the outer screen part of the switch lite?
All my screws got stripped any ideas on how to remove?
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