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Introducción

Follow this guide to replace a faulty or damaged screen on the Nintendo Switch Lite.

The Switch Lite uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.

Note: Removing the joysticks and buttons isn’t required, but it makes this repair much easier.

Note: If the display glass is cracked or shattered, but the screen still works, you’ll need to replace the digitizer instead.

Note: This procedure requires removing the shield plate and heat sink. The thermal paste will need to be cleaned off of both components—as well as the CPU—and reapplied before reinstalling the shield plate and heat sink.

    • Before beginning this repair, make sure that the device is completely turned off.

    • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the back panel.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

    All my screws got stripped any ideas on how to remove?

    Almost A Mammal - Contestar

  1. Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the back panel: Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the top of the device
    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the back panel:

    • Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the top of the device

    • Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the bottom of the device

    • To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try a different screwdriver if the screws won't come out.

  2. Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of the device. Twist the opening tool to release the clips securing the back panel.
    • Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of the device.

    • Twist the opening tool to release the clips securing the back panel.

    • Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

  3. Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device. Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device.
    • Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device.

  4. Insert an opening tool into the right speaker grille on the bottom of the device. Twist the opening tool to release the clips.
    • Insert an opening tool into the right speaker grille on the bottom of the device.

    • Twist the opening tool to release the clips.

    • Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

  5. Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device. Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device.
    • Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device.

  6. Continue sliding and prying the opening tool along the gap on the top of the device to release the clips. Continue sliding and prying the opening tool along the gap on the top of the device to release the clips.
    • Continue sliding and prying the opening tool along the gap on the top of the device to release the clips.

  7. Lift the bottom edge of the back panel, opening it like a book. Remove the back panel. Remove the back panel.
    • Lift the bottom edge of the back panel, opening it like a book.

    • Remove the back panel.

  8. Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:

    • Three 3.1 mm screws

    • One 4.5 mm screw

    There are four screws instead of three mentioned

    Khurram Chaudry - Contestar

  9. Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the shield plate up and out of the device. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste. Remove the shield plate.
    • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the shield plate up and out of the device.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • Remove the shield plate.

    • Clean off the old thermal paste from the shield plate and heat sink using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the heat sink before reassembly.

    You may need to replace the thermal paste on the heat sink.

    ahoz28 - Contestar

  10. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.

  11. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

    I turned the unit off beforehand, I used tweezers just like the instructions said (ifixit branded) , my device sparked and now it won’t turn back on

    User Service - Contestar

    The flap came off is it important or is there a way t fix it?

    Jose Cruz R Rangel Cordero - Contestar

  12. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

    Caution the connector may not be properly soldered onto the motherboard. For me it snapped off the pins and now have to find a place to get that fixed if even possible. may have bricked it.

    Craig Osman - Contestar

    Yup, broke the connector right off the motherboard. Thanks, ifixit -_-

    Justin Kerr - Contestar

    I backed out when I reached this point. I couldn't risk damaging it. Do u just need to pull it up? Did you mean that it might have been soldered shut below?

    Jannalyzer - Contestar

    You should just need to pull straight up, but make sure you’re pulling on the wires or the gray plug—do not pull on the black socket or it can snap off of the motherboard.

    Adam O'Camb -

  13. Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan.

    • The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

    When reassembling, the foam may fold down between the fan and heatsink, blocking airflow. Gently lift the foam back up on top of the fan. The adhesive film should hold the foam together.

    Kean Stump - Contestar

    Is removing the heat sink absolutely necessary?

    Clark Aulden - Contestar

    It’s not necessary, but it makes it much easier to remove and replace the game card reader, since the heat sink partially covers the connector.

    Craig Lloyd -

    Not really…….. I never remove it. It slides out quite easily once disconnected.

    Alan Sears - Contestar

  14. Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.
    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

  15. Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off of the motherboard to remove it. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste. Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.
    • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off of the motherboard to remove it.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

    • Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

    16.5 remove cartridge / headphones jack……….

    Calvin Martin - Contestar

    I've read that there are different ways to apply thermal paste, which should I use?

    Kai B - Contestar

  16. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable's ZIF connector.

  17. Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the seven 3.1 mm screws securing the game card reader and headphone jack.
    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the seven 3.1 mm screws securing the game card reader and headphone jack.

  18. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to carefully lift the game card reader and maneuver it to the left to slide the cable out of its connector. Remove the game card reader and headphone jack. Remove the game card reader and headphone jack.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to carefully lift the game card reader and maneuver it to the left to slide the cable out of its connector.

    • Remove the game card reader and headphone jack.

  19. Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the right trigger button assembly to the motherboard.
    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the right trigger button assembly to the motherboard.

    I think a whole step to remove the game card reader and speaker jack was skipped here…

    ConfusedAzn Random - Contestar

  20. Remove the right trigger button assembly. Remove the right trigger button assembly.
    • Remove the right trigger button assembly.

  21. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the right trigger button assembly's rubber pad if it didn't stay attached to the button assembly. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the right trigger button assembly's rubber pad if it didn't stay attached to the button assembly.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the right trigger button assembly's rubber pad if it didn't stay attached to the button assembly.

  22. Use the point of a spudger to pry the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard. Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable. Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable.

  23. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.

  24. Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard.

    There’s a step missing after this to remove the screws that hold the orange game cartridge slot. Those 7 screws have to be undone and the ribbon unclipped first before moving on to the next step.

    Heather Thrasher - Contestar

  25. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable's ZIF connector.

    skipped a step or two about removing the golden piece in the photo above, and the other little board

    Eddy Whitaker - Contestar

  26. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

  27. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.

  28. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

  29. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable's ZIF connector.

  30. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the right joystick cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the right joystick cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the right joystick cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

  31. Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following six screws securing the motherboard:
    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following six screws securing the motherboard:

    • Three 3.1 mm screws

    • Three 4.5 mm screws

    how to get the c port off

    Dustin Cronk - Contestar

  32. Insert a spudger in the gap between the frame and the motherboard and lift the motherboard up and out of its recess. Remove the motherboard assembly. Remove the motherboard assembly.
    • Insert a spudger in the gap between the frame and the motherboard and lift the motherboard up and out of its recess.

    • Remove the motherboard assembly.

  33. Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the joystick.
    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the joystick.

  34. Use your fingers to remove the joystick. There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.
    • Use your fingers to remove the joystick.

    • There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.

    Where are parts for the right joystick?

    John - Contestar

  35. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to pull the left speaker cable straight up and out of its socket on the daughterboard. Do not pull from the wires, or else you risk ripping the wires off the connector.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to pull the left speaker cable straight up and out of its socket on the daughterboard.

    • Do not pull from the wires, or else you risk ripping the wires off the connector.

    pulled from the connector, not the wires, and ended up ripping them off the connector anyways since it encountered tension from the other end (the gray chamber on the left)

    consider doing step 15 before pulling the wire, just in case.

    Phillipe Legenda - Contestar

    Why even disconnect this cable. Not worth the risk leave it connected to daughter board.

    Michael McNally - Contestar

    while doing this I ripped the pad on the circuit board off. Should i risk trying to repair it or should i just try to go without the speaker???

    sarah.carney203 - Contestar

    I also accidentally ripped off the connector, disabling the left speaker. However, that will not break any functionality of the switch. The right speaker works just fine on its own (just remember to turn the audio to mono in system settings) and I was successfully able to replace the joystick. Although the audio quality is a little bit depleted, you barely notice it if you turn up the volume a little, and I think being able to actually MOVE FORWARD in my games is a better plus than having louder, stereo, audio.

    Jonathan Maye - Contestar

  36. Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 4.5 mm screw securing the left speaker module.
    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 4.5 mm screw securing the left speaker module.

  37. Use your fingers to lift the speaker module up and out of its recess to remove it. Part of the speaker module sits underneath a delicate ribbon cable. Take care not to snag the speaker module on the cable as you remove it. Part of the speaker module sits underneath a delicate ribbon cable. Take care not to snag the speaker module on the cable as you remove it.
    • Use your fingers to lift the speaker module up and out of its recess to remove it.

    • Part of the speaker module sits underneath a delicate ribbon cable. Take care not to snag the speaker module on the cable as you remove it.

    Pulling the lower screw on the speaker assembly gave me a little more wiggle room to get it out without damaging the flat cable.

    Spacer - Contestar

  38. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.

  39. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the motherboard interconnect cable out of its connector on the daughterboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the motherboard interconnect cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the motherboard interconnect cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

  40. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flaps on the two ribbon cable ZIF connectors. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flaps on the two ribbon cable ZIF connectors.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flaps on the two ribbon cable ZIF connectors.

  41. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the daughterboard screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Repeat this procedure for the volume buttons cable. Repeat this procedure for the volume buttons cable.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the daughterboard screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

    • Repeat this procedure for the volume buttons cable.

  42. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the volume buttons. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the volume buttons.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the volume buttons.

  43. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the left joystick cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the left joystick cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the left joystick cable's ZIF connector.

  44. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the left joystick cable out of its connector on the daughterboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the left joystick cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the left joystick cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

    The connector for my left joystick broke. Is there a way to fix it?

    Christopher Shackelford - Contestar

    How badly did it broke?

    Daniele Carminati -

  45. Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the left trigger button assembly.
    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the left trigger button assembly.

  46. Remove the left trigger button assembly. Remove the left trigger button assembly.
    • Remove the left trigger button assembly.

  47. Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:

    • Two 4.5 mm screws

    • Two 6 mm screws

  48. Use your fingers to lift the daughterboard up and out of its recess to remove it. Use your fingers to lift the daughterboard up and out of its recess to remove it.
    • Use your fingers to lift the daughterboard up and out of its recess to remove it.

    Stop here if repairing Switch Lite for joycon drift. After removing daughter card you can see the bottom of the joystick. This thin metal actually bends during use causing bad connection of joystick. If you cut out a business card the same size as the joycon and put it on the bottom of the joystick it gives the metal enough backing to fix the issue. I used two layers with just a small bit of glue stick to adhere it. Put it all back together and you will find your issue is fixed.

    Michael McNally - Contestar

  49. Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the left joystick.
    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the left joystick.

  50. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the joystick up and out of its recess. Use your fingers to remove the joystick. There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the joystick up and out of its recess.

    • Use your fingers to remove the joystick.

    • There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.

  51. Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:

    • Three 2.5 mm screws

    • One 6 mm screw

    Be careful not to get the upper far-left screw stuck on the digitizer cable.

    Hayden - Contestar

  52. Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the midframe assembly up and out of its recess. Remove the midframe assembly. Remove the midframe assembly.
    • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the midframe assembly up and out of its recess.

    • Remove the midframe assembly.

  53. At this point in the repair, remove all of the buttons if you haven't done so already, to prevent them from falling out and getting lost. Use these two photos for reference.
    • At this point in the repair, remove all of the buttons if you haven't done so already, to prevent them from falling out and getting lost.

    • Use these two photos for reference.

  54. Heat an iOpener and place it on the back side of the screen along the top edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.
    • Heat an iOpener and place it on the back side of the screen along the top edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

    • A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the screen if you plan on reusing it, as it's susceptible to heat damage.

  55. Insert an opening pick between the frame and the top edge of the screen to begin separating the two components. Make sure to insert the pick completely under the LCD panel so you don't split and damage it.
    • Insert an opening pick between the frame and the top edge of the screen to begin separating the two components.

    • Make sure to insert the pick completely under the LCD panel so you don't split and damage it.

  56. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.
    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

  57. Heat the back side of the screen along the right edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.
    • Heat the back side of the screen along the right edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

  58. Continue sliding the opening pick around the right edge of the screen, slicing the adhesive. The screen and digitizer cables are placed in a way to prevent them from easily snagging on the opening pick, but still use caution when sliding the opening pick along the gap. The screen and digitizer cables are placed in a way to prevent them from easily snagging on the opening pick, but still use caution when sliding the opening pick along the gap.
    • Continue sliding the opening pick around the right edge of the screen, slicing the adhesive.

    • The screen and digitizer cables are placed in a way to prevent them from easily snagging on the opening pick, but still use caution when sliding the opening pick along the gap.

  59. Heat the back side of the screen along the bottom edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.
    • Heat the back side of the screen along the bottom edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

  60. Continue sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to slice the adhesive. You'll need to remove and reinsert the opening pick at various points along the screen's edge to work around the frame. You'll need to remove and reinsert the opening pick at various points along the screen's edge to work around the frame.
    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

    • You'll need to remove and reinsert the opening pick at various points along the screen's edge to work around the frame.

  61. Heat the back side of the screen along the left edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.
    • Heat the back side of the screen along the left edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

  62. Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice the adhesive. Take care not to snag the screen's daughterboard cable on the opening pick.
    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

    • Take care not to snag the screen's daughterboard cable on the opening pick.

  63. Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to lift the screen up and out of the frame to remove it. If you're reusing the screen (or your new screen does not come with pre-installed adhesive), follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive around the perimeter before reassembly. If you're reusing the screen (or your new screen does not come with pre-installed adhesive), follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive around the perimeter before reassembly.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to lift the screen up and out of the frame to remove it.

    • If you're reusing the screen (or your new screen does not come with pre-installed adhesive), follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive around the perimeter before reassembly.

  64. If you're also replacing the digitizer, you can skip this step. Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the remaining adhesive around the perimeter of the digitizer. Prior to installing a new screen, use isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean and remove any residual adhesive from the back side of the digitizer. Wait several minutes for any remaining alcohol to evaporate before installing the screen.
    • If you're also replacing the digitizer, you can skip this step.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the remaining adhesive around the perimeter of the digitizer.

    • Prior to installing a new screen, use isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean and remove any residual adhesive from the back side of the digitizer. Wait several minutes for any remaining alcohol to evaporate before installing the screen.

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Lite Answers community for help.

23 personas más completaron esta guía.

Craig Lloyd

Miembro Desde 10/02/16

24,832 Reputación

82 Guías creadas

11 comentarios

Followed the guide to replaced a cracked screen on a Switch Lite, all good, guide was easy to follow and refitting wasn't too hard either, just a reversal of the disassembly

Luke Randall - Contestar

Fantastic guide, exactly what I was looking for! Unfortunately I managed to make the tape unusable and I need tape to connect the lcd to the digitizer and the digitizer to the case. I will likely use 2-3mm tape for the lcd to digitizer but I'm unsure what to use to connect the digitizer to the case. Any suggestions?

Sam Red - Contestar

Thanks for taking the time to type this up. Really appreciate the effort that went in to this guide.

Matthew D. H. - Contestar

Great guide, I wish it would mention some of the procedures to tape the screen back in. After that, reversing the process was easy.

Stephen Hotchkiss - Contestar

For gluing the screen and digitizer back in, I would strongly recommend liquid glue, like Zhanlida T-8000 for example. You can apply it very precisely and you can also correct/remove it if needed pretty easily. I used this stuff to repair around 200 phones and tablets in the last couple of years and were never disappointed.

Also I would remove the digitizer AND the screen together, before removing the screen first from the digitizer… This will make the process of removing the screen from the digitizer a lot easier and safer.

I have ordered a crystal replacement case and a used lite with a scratched digitizer.. Have glued in the replacement digitizer so far, the console should arrive tomorrow.

Gluing in the digitizer was a breeze, just applied some glue all around (be careful not to use too much) and then just pressed down the digitizer all around and put a book on the top… Let the glue harden for around 24 hours and you are good to go.

Will leave some feedback how the screen removal went tomorrow. ;)

mathiasludewig - Contestar

Yeah.. The display was actually glued completely together with the digitizer! So not just only on the sides, but on the whole display with an UV reactive transparent glue, like with most smartphones nowadays…

This way this whole tutorial obsolete, because there is almost no way you can remove the digitizer from the display an vise versa…

Also my suggestion was totally right to remove the digitizer and display together.. The way it is shown here is absolutely over complicated.

Maybe the UV glue is used in a new revision ifixit wasn't aware of, but this has to be updated!!!

mathiasludewig -

So I Need to replace Just the glass over the screen but I cant find a replacement or a guide

Jack Hadad - Contestar

I just did this repair the other day. You would still need to follow this guide because of the ribbon cable you need to plug in. You just need to take the digitizer off in the end. I would buy an lcd just incase it breaks while trying to get it separated which there is a good chance that will happen.

Derek Osmulski -

I was wondering if 99% IPA could be an issue to a screen, I am definitely an amateur at this but originally I was going to replace the joysticks and wanted to clean the console.

In a moment of carelessness I spilled IPA on the midframe assembly and some on the side, which seeped to the screen. I had accidentally doused the screen with a relatively small amount of IPA but I dried off what I could and turned on the screen successfully but there was a light colored splotch on the screen. After a couple of days the splotch on the screen is much smaller but it doesn’t seem like it will go away, is this permanent damage? I am wondering if it is possible to clean or fix this, if I get under the screen is it possible to clean, fix it or do I need a new LCD?

Thank you for any guidance in advance.

Helios - Contestar

What about the outer screen part of the switch lite?

Daniel Bumgardner - Contestar

Just a heads up, steps 34, 35 and 50, 51 are uneccessary as the joysticks don't obstruct anything being removed in this repair. They can be left in. Just saves an extra couple of steps :)

Tom - Contestar

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