Utilizar esta guía para reemplazar un panel de vidrio de la pantalla frontal roto. Se requiere la extracción del cristal de la pantalla frontal para acceder a la pantalla LCD.

  1. Retire los siguientes 10 tornillos que sujetan la caja inferior al MacBook Pro 13 "Unibody:
    • Retire los siguientes 10 tornillos que sujetan la caja inferior al MacBook Pro 13 "Unibody:

      • Siete tornillos Phillips de 3 mm.

      • Tres tornillos Phillips de 13,5 mm.

    It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.

    scott523 - Contestar

    The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!

    iphonetechtips -

    A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to "cam out" (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake "precision" screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake "precision" screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at "Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as "Phillips #00" or "Torx T5." These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a "Size 8" dress."

    In other words, the quality of many "precision" screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake "precision" Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a "precision screwdriver", it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    One of the best manufacturers of precision screwdrivers is Wiha ( cost more, but they're worth it. Or buy screwdrivers from iFixit, who seem to be selling JIS screwdrivers.

    Another article with some good info on screw and screwdriver types:

    Also keep in mind that some screws are tougher to remove and reinstall because they have a thread-locking compound on them, which is usually blue.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Phillips #00 is the correct screwdriver for the lower case. Maybe the one you have is worn or badly made.

    David Fear -

    Perfect man!Many thanks!:)

    wertaerte - Contestar

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    twisk - Contestar

    thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.

    BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.

    xitxit2 -

    i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big

    plins718 - Contestar

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover - Contestar

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone:

    Eric Sorenson - Contestar

    Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.

    danzeitlin -

    I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.

    jonathanmorgan - Contestar

    I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.

    john - Contestar

    Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?

    Igor - Contestar

    The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

    Some info here:

    "1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"

    "*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."

    Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.

    Winston -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh - Contestar

    I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.

    tarriojuan - Contestar

    Had no idea they were so expensive.

    Franklin - Contestar

    Phillips #00 is the right tool for all the steps (Except the 4 HD T6 screws). Maybe there is dirt in the notch.

    Luis Soto - Contestar

    There is any chance to use the Toshiba MQ01ABD 1 TB 2.5" Internal Hard Drive MQ01ABD100 , it has7200 rpm , shuold it work?

    Luis - Contestar

    If you are running OS X 10.11.2 or newer, battery provided by iFixIt will not work. I've already tried 2 batteries from iFixIt and neither worked. iFixIt needs to come clean on this unfortunate situation. I've already put 8 hours into this futile effort when it should have taken me 45 minutes.

    gkofga - Contestar

    What was your solution? I'm using 10.11.3 OS X. I may need a battery replacement very soon too.

    John Doe -

    <i>The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.</I>

    I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are <b>NOT</b> the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the "Give the author +30 points" button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together. :-)

    THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.

    Joseph King - Contestar

    It would be nice to remind fixers which length screws go back in which holes, in case they get mixed up...

    Mike - Contestar

    Wonderful guide

    Freda - Contestar

  2. Levante ligeramente la caja inferior y empuje hacia la parte posterior para liberar las lengüetas de montaje.
    • Levante ligeramente la caja inferior y empuje hacia la parte posterior para liberar las lengüetas de montaje.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc:

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike - Contestar

    • Por razones de precaución, le recomendamos que desconecte el conector de la batería de la placa lógica para evitar cualquier descarga eléctrica.

    • Utilice el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería hacia arriba fuera de su toma en la placa lógica.

    why is step 3 necessary?

    gansodesoya - Contestar

    Cita de gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane - Contestar

    Cita de gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.

    amiller770 - Contestar

    I'm thinking of ordering the spudger. I was thinking of order the heavy duty spudger... or should I just order the normal. Will either of the spudgers work for this DIY?

    shockaaa - Contestar

    Once you have a set of spudgers, you will wonder how you ever went without them. :-)

    Brian -

    $@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(

    Lukas Besch - Contestar

    You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.

    Logan Bean -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung - Contestar

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    Would it not be advisable to drain the battery completely before attempting to repair, if you want to be sure you don't get a spark when removing the battery connector?


    bduault - Contestar

    Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.

    amiller770 -

    I neglected step 3 and now my computer won't turn on. Could I have shorted out my logic board?

    Plamen - Contestar

    I had the same problem , my macbook doesn't switch on working

    marioluiggi -

    A very easy and fast update indeed! Using this guide and the tools indicated on top I replaced the two RAM cards (2GB each) with two 8GB RAM cards from OWC for a total of 16GB RAM in my MBP Middle 2010 Core 2 Duo (Officially not supported according to Apple).


    Make sure you select RAM with these specs: 16GB DDR3 PC8500 1066MHz Kit (8GBx2)


    Apps open much faster and I can run a virtual machine at a decent speed.

    Luis Soto - Contestar

    Removing the battery is not required, but in some instances can make installing ram much easier. If you plan on upgrading from 4GB (2X 2GB) to 8GB (2X 4GB) Removing the battery would be better. There are two levels of ram. If you are replacing both levels, then remove the battery. If you are just replacing the top, dont bother. Removing the battery for very long or even at all (depending on the CMOS battery age and health) could possibly reset settings, the clock, saved wifi passwords, and more.

    Everett Whiteman - Contestar

    It is beneficial to remove the battery at this stage.

    Knox Karima - Contestar

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond - Contestar

    Guys I just used my index finger nail. It’s the most useful nail to let grow a little bit for this type of procedure. Came off pretty easy when using both my right hand index and left hand index together to lift the plug up out. Found some plastic folded it and place it right over the socket so the plug would go back in and now the plug holds the plastic in place so I can focus on the main work.

    clsmithj - Contestar

    • Utilice el extremo plano de un spudger para mover el subwoofer / conector del cable del altavoz derecho hacia arriba fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

      • Tenga mucho cuidado de presionar debajo del conector como se muestra, y no debajo del enchufe en sí. De lo contrario, puede separar accidentalmente el zócalo de la placa lógica.

    You must first separate the little foam pad to see better how to pry the cable

    connector up. You must be

    careful not to root up also its socket

    stuck on the logic board

    ramonananos - Contestar

    My subwoofer/right speaker connection seemed to be soldered on the main board. Of course, I pried this off..realizing right after that there was no reconnecting it (&^$%^@!). There's really no reason to even disconnect this wire on the MacBook pro 13 mid-2009

    Glad this is my "project" Mac

    srlincoln - Contestar

    Please Be Carefully With This Step, Because I Had To Resolder It Back To The Logic Board. But There Is A Black Foam Piece Over The Cable You Have To Pry Up, Lift The Foam Piece And Then Try To CAREFULLY Pry Cable Connector

    BWilliams842 - Contestar

    A better description would have been worth a lot....

    I accidently pried off the socket aswell... gonna have to go to the computer/robotics lab at my college to resolder it -.-

    Juliane Aschenbrenner - Contestar

    I didn't have to do step 4 for my mid-2010 13" mbp.

    jonk2015 - Contestar

    CAUTION!! Note is required here! First off step is truly unnecessary! Secondly, just don't do it!

    Edward Turkovich - Contestar

    A real closeup photo of this small piece of hard plastic that prevents the connector from falling out would be a great help. !

    Peter Mayo - Contestar

    Don't follow this step!!!! It is complete unnecessary. I just riped of the socket....

    hilbert - Contestar

    Thank you for the warning not to perform this step. It is unnecessary to unplug that connector.

    Fill IP - Contestar

    Clearly I should have read this as well, popped the socket off even being gentle.


    cpt awesome - Contestar

    • Desconecte el cable de la cámara retirando el extremo macho directamente desde su socket.

      • Hay un pequeño pedazo de plástico duro pegado a la tabla lógica que para el cable de la cámara de caerse de su zócalo. Asegúrese de pelar esto primero o podría dañar los conectores.

    • Asegúrese de halar el conector paralela a la cara de la tabla lógica y hacia la unidad óptica, no directamente desde su zócalo.

    Be careful to the piece of plastic that prevents camera cable failing out its socket! Do not force connector! Look at plastic before attempting to remove connector Plastic is partially covered by cdrom flat connector at right of camera cable connector

    Silvio - Contestar

    that's not only the camera but the wifi and bluetooth too. Be extremely careful!

    Jose Luis Blas - Contestar

    So I unfortunately did not find this guide when I was replacing my keyboard. I did at first force this connection, didn't know I could peel that black plastic piece off, then was able to smoothly get it in. Now my Bluetooth/Wi-Fi/web cam isn't working. I'm looking at the connection now and it looks undamaged. How do I know for certain I damaged the cord and/or socket

    Vic - Contestar

    Does anybody knows how I can change the cable+connector, and where to buy it? Thanks

    Guillermo - Contestar

    It would be so helpful if a real closeup of the hard piece of plastic that keeps the connector in place were included. In the photo. it looks to be almost where

    Peter Mayo - Contestar

    the guys fingernail is in the photo and close to the screw near the top edge of the connector, is that correct ?

    Peter Mayo - Contestar

    This step is unnecessary. And the connector is very very fragile. Don't follow this step.

    hilbert - Contestar

    The comment above from hilberg is wrong. You should disconnect this plug, otherwise one can not detach the screen later.

    Fill IP - Contestar

    Please be VERY careful. I fixed my Macbook Pro A1278 Backlit Keyboard but lost my WiFi/Camera/Bluetooth…

    Caio Carvalho - Contestar

    • Desvíe el cable de datos de la cámara del canal de la unidad óptica.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retire los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el cable de datos de la cámara y el altavoz derecho a la caja superior:

      • Dos tornillos Phillips de 8 mm.

      • Un tornillo Phillips de 4mm.

    • Uno de los tornillos Phillips de 8 mm probablemente permanecerá cautivo en el bucle de tierra del cable de la cámara.

    • Resbala el soporte del cable de la cámara hacia afuera desde debajo del subwoofer y retírelo del la computadora.

    For my mid-2010 mbp, removing the 4mm screw is not enough as the camera cable bracket is under the black cover. I need to unscrew another screw (see the dark cover in step 6). However, the speaker (dark circle in step 6) is a strong magnet and the little screw flew onto it and crack the speaker slightly. You need to be very careful of this. The sound wasn't as clear when I turn on loud volume after that.

    jonk2015 - Contestar

    in my case the 8-mm screw was stuck. I needed to drill the head.

    Fill IP - Contestar

    Be careful when taking off the screws here. When I was taking apart the bracket, one of the screws became severely stripped (to the point where it was rounded. I had to wait to wait until my father got home so he can give me his screw extracting tools. The same can be said for the display cable bracket ( but that one wasn’t such a big deal for me since I didn’t severely strip it, a bigger screwdriver helped out for me.)

    Willie Narvaez - Contestar

    • Agarre la lengüeta de tracción de plástico asegurada al bloqueo del cable de datos de la pantalla y gírela hacia el lado DC-in del equipo.

    • retire el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla directamente de su toma.

    • Asegúrese de tirar del conector directamente y no hacia arriba de su toma.

    Well, my display ended up looking like this after the repair:

    As you can see, there was a light/dark banded pattern along the bottom of the screen, corresponding to the LCD's backlight. In my case it was also accompanied by a constant high pitched whistling noise. I swear to anything that's holy, it was not coming from the fan or the speaker, but rather the motherboard itself.

    Anyway, both these problems went away when I disconnected and reconnected the connector at this stage. I'm saying this on the off chance it helps someone else.

    Jonty Levine - Contestar

    I did what you said, disconnect and reconnect the display data cable but the problem didn't go away. Any idea how to fix this?

    jonk2015 -

    I also encountered the issue at the bottom of the screen. I can't get mine to go away. I can make it vary a bit or at least the whole display to vary by fluctuating the connection, but it just won't go away. I'm open to any other suggestions.

    I might have manhandled the bottom of my screen a bit. I didn't realize how to get the plastic u-shaped cover off, and I fudged around with it for a while before reading somewhere that it just slides down. I thought I had read that it snapped on, so I had been a little flustered on why it wouldn't snap off.

    Anyway, if anyone has suggestions I'd be all ears.

    Tim -

    It's not to clear but there is a piece of spring steel that rotates away from the main (circuit board side) of the connector....this piece sort of hugs the parameter of the screen cable locking it to the circuit board...both arms wrapped around your brother....looking closely (10x magnifier) at this cable one of the gold connections is slightly oxidized---my display arbitrarily flickers and this symptom is lessened as the temperature increases...I suspect this is the cuase of the screen flashing on/off

    brian62 - Contestar




    Spread the Fixmas cheer.


    Spread the Fixmas cheer.

    • Quite los dos tornillos siguientes que sujetan el soporte del cable de datos de la pantalla a la caja superior:

      • Un tornillo Phillips de 7 mm.

      • Un tornillo Phillips de 5 mm.

    • Levante el soporte del cable de datos de la pantalla fuera de la caja superior.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retire los dos tornillos Torx externos de 6,5 mm que sujetan cada uno de los dos soportes de pantalla a la caja superior (4 tornillos en total).

    This says t use a 6.5 mm Torx driver. In the required tools list it only mentions a 6 mm Torx driver. Where can we find a 6.5 mm Torx Driver?

    Matthew Shaw - Contestar

    The 6mm vs 6.5mm is the length of the screw. It is still a T6 head (although mine was a T7 for some reason). I think the middle screw on each side is 0.5mm longer.

    Dean Landry -

    lol… turns out mine is a mid-2012 model. That accounts for the different screw head. But the 6mm vs 6.5mm still use the same driver if they’re both T6.

    Dean Landry -

    In my case, i had to use a t8 screwdriver. My tools are not from Ifixit but i’m just sayin.

    Willie Narvaez - Contestar

    • Abra su MacBook para que la pantalla sea perpendicular a la mayúscula.

    • Coloque su MacBook abierto en una mesa como se ilustra.

    • Mientras sostiene la pantalla y la mayúscula junto con la mano izquierda, retire el tornillo Torx de 6.5 mm restante del soporte inferior de la pantalla.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Asegúrese de sujetar la pantalla y la mayúscula junto con la mano izquierda. Si no lo hace, la pantalla liberada / mayúscula puede caer, dañando potencialmente cada componente.

    • Retire el último tornillo Torx T6 de 6 mm que fija la pantalla en la parte superior.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Coge la parte inferior con la mano derecha y gírala ligeramente hacia la parte superior de la pantalla para que el soporte de la pantalla superior despeje el borde inferior.

    • Gire la pantalla levemente lejos de la parte inferior

    Agregar Comentario

    • Levante la pantalla hacia arriba y lejos de la parte superior, teniendo en cuenta los soportes o cables que pueden quedar atrapados.

    Re-assembly hint: Laying the base, keyboard down, on a table top with the hinge side over the edge about 1/2" toward you is a more stable position for re-assembly than trying to do this up on its edge. This has the added benefit of being able to reinsert the torn screws vertically.

    Pete H - Contestar

    May be in the wrong place but then please direct me. At this step, can I just take off the upper half (meaning the screen, LCD, and top housing shell in one) and simply replace it with another upper half of the same edition???

    cmackay13stmarys - Contestar

    Yes, you can. Thanks what I'm doing now. :)

    Mike Mayaka -

    • En los siguientes pasos, se utilizará una pistola de calor para suavizar el adhesivo que asegura el borde negro exterior alrededor de la parte inferior del panel de vidrio frontal a la pantalla. El área al que se aplica el adhesivo se muestra en rojo en la segunda imagen.

    • Con la pistola de aire caliente en posición baja, comience calentando el borde exterior negro cerca de la esquina superior derecha del panel de vidrio.

    • Siempre apunte la pistola de calor lejos de la tira de goma de alrededor del cristal de vidrio. Calentar el caucho hará que se derrita ligeramente, convirtiendo su acabado de mate a brillante. Si toca el caucho sobrecalentado puede causar que se deforme permanentemente.

    • Debido al calor aplicado, es normal que se desarrolle una capa de condensación en el interior del panel de vidrio y / o en el exterior de la pantalla LCD. Se puede quitar con un limpiador de vidrio una vez que el cristal se separa de la pantalla.

    Heating rubber strip it becomes glossy You can turn it to matte using ultrafine sandpaper (very ultrafine!!!) P2500

    Silvio - Contestar

    Great piece of advice. Thank you!

    Brian -

    With a lot of heating, for me, it was very hard to get the glass to separate from the case. I had better luck starting from the bottom right as I could grip better onto the case. Three mistakes I made:

    1. Once I got the glass separated, I probably didn't heat sufficiently as I was going around and the glass broke. That made the rest of the procedure miserable. Lesson: pull very gently.

    2. I must have touched one of the tiny bits of glass that fell on the LCD and it scratched the actual screen. :-(. Lesson: vacuum the pieces as you go and be very careful when touching the LCD.

    3. I somehow overheated the LCD screen at the top left and right corners and now the display is all wonky and faded at the corners. Not sure what the lesson is here.

    Athanassios Diacakis - Contestar

    First, if using a hair dryer, what setting should that be operated at? It would be much cooler than the heat gun, right?

    Second, the iFixit basic set comes with a small, clear suction cup. Would that be sufficient for this project, or does it require the stronger pull of the other cups?

    Finally, must I reapply adhesive to the case when replacing the glass? Does the original remain tacky and re-bond on assembly?

    contact - Contestar

    It's been a while since you asked, but since no one answered and someone else may have the same questions:

    Hair dryers vary a lot, depending on wattage. I would start on low or med, and work my way up to high if necessary. I'd keep the fan on the lowest setting.

    The little suction cup is for removing screens like the iMac, which just uses magnets, and possibly an iPad or iPhone. I would not want to use that for this project, get something about 2" wide with a decent handle.

    The screen should have the double sided glue tape already applied, just remove the backing. I wouldn't get glass that doesn't have the tape on it, big waste of time with little savings in cost.

    Jeff Kamis

    maccentric -

    ****EASIEST WAY TO REMOVE GLASS**** Instead of using this large heat gun, I used an Ancor Marine Grade Mirco Thermal Heat Gun (Ancor 702027) I picked up at West Marine. The tip is the exact width of the black trim and really concentrates the heat to the tape without heating outter rubber trim. No lie....I followed the heat gun all the way around the edge with a tiny pry tool and the glass was off in 5 min!!

    LKFitzgerald1 - Contestar

    what temperature did u have it set at? I have a digital rework station i want to use.

    Bradley -

    All I can say for this is don't be tempted to hold the heat gun too close. I ended up burning my LCD the first time I did it and having to replace that when all I was looking to do was replace the cable. I got the glass off holding it about 4/5 inches from the screen and being patient (it took about 5/10 minutes in the end).

    Nick - Contestar

    The tape is very sticky and the glass is very fragile but at the same time fairly flexible.....I ended up breaking the glass ans it turned out to be a mess picking up the shards....but in the end a new glass is not too costly. the implication is that heating melts the glue but it is really just double stick tape.....there are some "youtube" videos that are worth a look but I would suggest using guitar picks and not a putty knife which creates a point load that breaks the glass....wear safety glasses!!

    brian62 - Contestar

    Be ready to replace the glass (good thing mine was already broken, I ordered one). Wear surgery gloves and protective glasses. Trust your nose, if it smell melted plastic, it’s a good clue to stop the heat.

    Sebastien CHAPUIS - Contestar

    • Con el panel suficientemente caliente, fije una ventosa de servicio pesado cerca de la esquina superior derecha del cristal de la pantalla.

    • No fije la ventosa en la parte superior de la tira de goma alrededor del borde del cristal de la pantalla.

    • Para fijar las ventosas que vendemos, primero coloque la ventosa con el mango móvil paralelo a la cara del panel de vidrio. Mientras sostiene ligeramente la ventosa contra el cristal, levante el mango móvil hasta que esté paralelo con el otro mango.

    • Lentamente y con cuidado, tire de la esquina del cristal de la pantalla hacia arriba del conjunto de la pantalla.

    • Si sólo se eleva el borde superior del cristal (como se ve en la tercera imagen), repita los pasos uno y dos hasta que pueda levantar la esquina del panel.

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    • Levante suavemente la esquina del cristal de la pantalla lo suficiente para insertar un spudger entre el mismo y el conjunto de la pantalla.

    • Utilice el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar suavemente el adhesivo que sujeta el cristal frontal a la pantalla.

    • Levante el panel de vidrio a unos centímetros de la esquina superior derecha a lo largo de los bordes superior e inferior de la pantalla.

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    • Utilice una pistola de calor para ablandar el adhesivo debajo de la franja negra a lo largo del lado derecho del panel de vidrio delantero.

    • Sujete una ventosa a lo largo del lado derecho del panel de vidrio delantero.

    • Tire hacia arriba en el panel de vidrio mientras utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para separarlo del resto del conjunto de la pantalla.

    • Continúe trabajando a lo largo del borde derecho del cristal de pantalla frontal hasta que se separe de la pantalla.

    • Puede ser útil usar una pua de guitarra u otro objeto de plástico delgado para mantener la esquina superior derecha del panel de vidrio delantero para evitar que se pegue de nuevo al ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    I ended up breaking my glass panel due to using the spudger. I think if you use something more like a small putty knife you will do better. The spudger puts a lot of pressure in a small spot while the putty knife would put a little pressure over a larger area. Also, if you do break the glass, be sure to get ALL of the broken bits off before putting the new one on. Also, watch out for those broken bits as they tend to penetrate skin quite easily, and stay there for days!

    mastover - Contestar

    • Utilice su pistola de calor para suavizar el adhesivo debajo de la franja negra a lo largo del borde superior del panel de visualización de cristal.

    • Coloque una ventosa cerca del borde superior del panel de cristal y utilícela para extraer el panel de vidrio de la pantalla.

    • Trabajar a lo largo del borde superior del panel de vidrio, con cuidado utilizando el extremo plano de un spudger para separar el adhesivo si es necesario.

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    • Utilice una pistola de calor para ablandar el adhesivo debajo de la tira negra cerca de la esquina superior izquierda del panel de visualización de cristal.

    • Coloque una ventosa cerca de la esquina superior izquierda del panel de cristal.

    • Tire hacia arriba de la ventosa y use el extremo plano de un spudger para sacar cuidadosamente el panel de visualización de cristal fuera del conjunto de la pantalla.

    • Una vez que la esquina superior izquierda ha sido separada de la pantalla, puede ser útil usar una pua de guitarra u otro objeto de plástico fino para evitar que el vidrio se pegue de nuevo al ensamblaje de la pantalla.

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    • Utilice una pistola de calor o secador de pelo para suavizar el adhesivo debajo de la franja negra a lo largo del lado izquierdo del panel de vidrio frontal.

    • Conecte una ventosa a lo largo del lado izquierdo del panel de vidrio delantero.

    • Tire hacia arriba en el panel de vidrio mientras utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para separarlo del resto del conjunto de la pantalla.

    • Continúe trabajando a lo largo del borde izquierdo del cristal de pantalla frontal hasta que se separe de la pantalla.

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    • Ahora que los bordes superior, izquierdo y derecho del cristal están libres de la pantalla, levante lentamente el borde superior del panel de vidrio y gírelo suavemente fuera de la pantalla.

    • Si es necesario, utilice el extremo plano de un spudger para liberar el borde inferior del panel de visualización de cristal del conjunto de visualización.

    • Antes de volver a montar, asegúrese de limpiar tanto el interior de la pantalla de cristal como la pantalla LCD, ya que cualquier polvo o huellas dactilares atrapadas en el interior serán irritantemente visibles cuando la máquina esté encendida.

    How do you clean the LCD without damaging it? I have some glass dust and other things including a fingerprint resting on the screen, though I have yet to damage the LCD and would like to keep it that way.

    Erin - Contestar

    • Omita este paso si está reutilizando el cristal original.

    • Inserte el borde de una herramienta de apertura de plástico entre el cristal de la pantalla y el soporte de la cámara y colóquelo alrededor del soporte de la cámara para separarlo del cristal de la pantalla.

    • No olvide pegar el soporte de la cámara hasta el nuevo cristal de la pantalla frontal antes de volver a montar.

    I had issues getting the panel back on till I got rid of the little camera bracket. I just made sure the glass aligned properly then removed the bracket. The bracket didn't stick worth beans anyway.

    mastover - Contestar

    • Durante el proceso de extracción del vidrio, el cable de la cámara puede pegarse al adhesivo en el panel de vidrio, desconectándolo de la placa de la cámara a medida que el panel se levanta. Si el cable de la cámara todavía está conectado a la tarjeta de la cámara, omita este paso.

    • Para volver a conectar el cable, primero use la punta de un spudger para quitar el pedazo de cinta de espuma sobre el zócalo ZIF del cable de la cámara.

    • Utilice la punta de un spudger para levantar el retenedor del cable ZIF en el zócalo del cable de la cámara.

    • Inserte el cable de la cámara en su toma en la placa de la cámara y utilice la punta de un spudger para encajar el retén del cable ZIF, bloqueando el cable en su lugar.

    • Vuelva a aplicar el trozo de cinta que cubre el conector del cable de la cámara.

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Will the suction cup still work on a heavily cracked screen?

alexf - Contestar

Mine was not all that cracked, but still the suction cups were useless because if you have one crack through the "suction area", it won't work.

namnamkha -

I just replace the glass on my 13" MacBook Pro with badly broken glass screen.

The suction cup did not work because a) my screen was cracked badly and the cup would not hold suction, and b) the glue is too tenacious (even with heating) and over a large surface area to simply pull it away from the frame, especially if the glass is cracked.

I found a hairdryer on hottest setting, but lowest speed works best. It softens the glue enough to pry the glass away from the frame. I had to work around the perimeter using the Spudger tool and a small, flat-blade screw driver. I started prying at a cracked opening in my glass (it was really badly cracked - someone stepped on the computer when my daughter left it on the floor!). Need to be very carefull with using the screw driver - only pry along and parallel to the edge of the frame like using an ice scraper on a sidewalk. Don't pry on the rubber seal on the edge and stay away from the LCD.

I left the cracked glass in place until I cleared all of the glass along the perimeter- this allowed me to rest my hand on the screen without damaging/scratching the LCD underneath.

Be aware that the camera cable runs in a channel from the lens on top to the right corner, then down the right edge of the screen. The channel is in the center of the border, so it is ok to pry under the glass as close as you can get to the rubber seal on the edge, and also on the inside edge of the border, but take care not to pry into the LCD. The camera cable is wider and has connectors within 2 inches of the lens, so you really need to be careful with prying in this area. I saved the lens area for last. Started to the left of the lens and worked counterclockwise around the perimeter.

If you take your time, heat a small area, pry the glass away and continue around the perimeter, it will come out. Need to be patient and not get in a hurry.

When the glass is removed, take care to clean out the glass fragments, especially down between the edge of the LCD and the frame. I used a business card to slide in the gap and pull out pieces of glass. Then used small piece of packaging tape, tacky side out, to dab out the small pieces (don't put the tape on the LCD, just the frame border area). Overall, the instructions on this site are excellent - I had no trouble removing the screen from the base of the computer, and re-assembling with the pictures and the instructions.

One improvement would be to show better detail how to remove the screen power cable - the locking mechanism has to be rotated from flat position to about 90 degrees before pulling the connector. It was not obvious how to do this in the instructions - it is a U-shaped bar that connects on each side of the connector and runs around the stationary part of the socket. Simply lift it up before pulling the connector out. I pulled the connector without lifting this U-shaped arm first, and it fell off when I pulled the plug. I was able to put it back on to the connector without much trouble.

The connecters all went back in to place very well. The machine worked when I started it up after re-assembly. It works and looks great.

Thanks for the instructions!

Joe - Contestar

Looking for tape just in case I need some to affix the glass. Do you carry this, if so which on would best to use?

Raymond Rylander - Contestar

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