I understand this is an older thread, but I just had one of these in my shop for no power and no light on the magsafe charger. My customer to it to a local Mac retailer (no Apple store in immediate area) and they wanted $450 to send it to Apple just for diagnosis!!! I was able to determine that the mainboard has some slight liquid damage to it. Toward the rear of the laptop an unused pop connector had slight corrosion on a couple of the leads. A few shots of QD Electronic Cleaner and slight scrubbing with a toothbrush to remove the corrosion was all it took to return the laptop to a working state.

I just took one apart today. Getting the back off was the standard affair for Samsung tablets- run a spudger or plectrum all around the edges. However, the model I am repairing, the SM-P550, has a bit of a problem. The digitizer is sealed to the LCD in the same manner as a phone screen. Got the screen out intact, but now will have the arduous task of trying to separate the layers without ruining the LCD. So, if you are looking to repair one of these, don't! The cost to get a whole assembly is $200 and not worth the price.

Wires are wires are wires.... if you nicked the insulation, cover it to stop a short. If you severed the wire, splice it and cover it. Liquid electrical tape or shrink tube is perfect.

Not sure if this applies, but if any of the ribbon cables were damaged, or if not fully seated, you will see the DS power up and shut down immediately, or power on with backlight and sound but no images. If you get power and the battery charging light comes on when you plug the unit in, then you probably have this issue.

I don't have a detailed guide with images, but I can give a bit of advice for removing the top screen. After removing the circuit board, you'll need to remove the back cover for the top screen or the hinge-pin won't move. On the hinge side (not the side with the ribbon cables and wifi antenna) you will see the white part of the hinge pin. Please note, the top screen has to be fully open for the hinge pin to move Using a small flat blade, you can slide the hinge pin so that the retaining plastic clip is now free. After that you can close the lid and slide the hinge pin the rest of the way out. Be gentle with the ribbon cable as you slide them through the slot in the base. You have to roll the ribbon cables into a tube to get them to slide through the hinge area. Pay particular attention to how the 3 ribbon cables are layered as it is very important that they go back in the same order!!! You can use scotch tape to hold them when you roll them up. When putting it back together, the lid has to be in the fully...

I was just looking for this answer myself and couldn't find anything helpful. So I decided to just forge ahead and fix it or break it. I'll call the side without the ribbon cables the hinge side. If you look at the hinge side from the bottom, you'll see where the power indicator plastic is. Look very close, and you'll see the hinge peeking out very small ways. You need to gently pry that hinge with a small flat-blade screwdriver. Once you've moved the hinge far enough, the plastic insert for the power indicator will be dislodged and come out with no effort. Now you can push the hinge the rest of the way out, gently maneuver the ribbon cables into the slot, and remove the top assembly.