Oh WOW. So THAT's what you meant by cranking! That makes WAY more sense. Double thumbs up for the youtube vid. That was a stroke of genius. Sounds like one of your cylinders isn't firing. If it smells like gas I am amazed the car didn't throw a code. Alright, the car runs well enough after a bit, so timing doesn't seem like it'd be the issue. Fuel/air mix is determined by preset values in the ECU's memory, so that's probably out. If it smells like gas, then you're definitely getting fuel. HMMM. My first thought is fouled spark plugs. Take your plugs out and look at them. Here's a chart showing what you're looking for. "Reading" your plugs If any are fouled or damaged, replace them. A full set of NGK's shouldn't cost you more than $35. My second guess would be one of the sensors. OBD-II O2 sensors are self-testing, so it would throw a code if one of those were failing. The next culprit is the Mass Air Flow sensor. this sensor is usually mounted in a rigid tube just after the filter box and before the intake...

Make sure your e-brake is not on. That will tighten the grip the shoes have on the drum and make it next to impossible to remove. Assuming that wasn't the problem... A lot of brake drums have threaded holes on the face near the lugs. These holes are there to put in jacking screws for drum removal. Find one or two screws that fit the threaded holes and use them to push the drum off. If there's no such holes, well, get a deadblow hammer and start banging. Penetrating oil from your local auto parts store will also help.

Since the problem only happens once the truck is warm, I would check around the engine for any loose fittings or hoses that might have expanded and started to leak once they were warm. It would probably be a big leak to keep the engine from starting entirely, so open the hood with the engine running and listen for any hissing or sucking noises. Pay particular attention to the intake manifold. A vacuum leak can wreak major havok on an engine's ability to run. Another possibility is a faulty O2 sensor. It will be plugged into the exhaust on the engine side of the catalytic converter. It's possible that that is reading wrong once it heats up. From the parts you say you've replaced, the only thing left to check is whether or not your fuel line pressure and flow is adequate. It's a pricey thing to replace, so I would get a fuel system testing kit from your local auto parts store and check that your pump is delivering adequate pressure AND flow. (Though a good kit is also expensive. It may be cheaper to just...

Did you make sure you were getting an enclosure for a 2.5" IDE drive? The enclosures (and connectors) for 3.5" IDE drives and 2.5" IDE drives are different. Check out Newegg.com and use the guided search feature in the computer hardware section. Enclosures will be listed under computer cases.

Look at the toner cartridge itself or in the immediate vicinity of where it is installed. Sometimes there is a little slider that is there for periodic cleaning of what i think is called the corona wire. Don't quote me on the name. Sliding that slider all the way from one side to the other has produced good results for me in the past, though I am not familiar with your particular model of printer.

I've encountered this before on my old Jetta as well as some of my friends' cars. Both of these systems work using a signal from wheel speed sensors that are generally mounted on or near the brakes. They're usually about the size of a roll of pennies. If they're gooped up, bent out of alignment, unplugged or the wires are damaged they will send a "no-spin" signal to the computer, telling it to activate the ABS (that pulsing you're feeling in the brake pedal) as well as cause all sorts of errors in the traction control module. That seems to be the most likely source of failure. If you determine that one or more of the sensors are faulty, check your local auto parts store for replacements or rockauto.com. The dealer should be your last resort buying parts since they mark up their parts 100-500%. Fixing the sensor(s) may not make the lights go away. You'll have to take it to an authorized GM repair shop or dealer to have them reset the computer modules for the ABS and TC. OR, if you're feeling wealthy, you...

Make sure you're using the original PS1 controllers. Later controllers for the PS2 (and obviously, for the PS3) have other features that the PS1 may not recognize. (Been a LONG time since I pulled out my PS1 so I may be wrong about that.) Failing that, I would start by cleaning out the controller connections in the PS1 itself with some q-tips and rubbing alcohol. As a last resort, you can start taking the box apart and inspecting connections for corrosion and loose connections.

I would definitely check how the sensor is hooked up, as per pollytintop's instructions. It sounds as if the remotes are trying to sync to the unit. Try the remote/receive association procedure that should be outlined in the user manual.

Try blowing out the vents with some canned air. Dust acts like a blanket that holds in heat and makes everything work poorly. In extreme cases, too much heat and the computer will automatically shut down to keep from melting the processor. You can find canned air at any electronics or office supply store.

Generally I would look at drivers for this problem. http://us.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/driv... If by "rush the buffering" you mean that the movie or music plays, then lags, then plays, then lags, you may have too many programs open that are hogging CPU time and memory. Try closing any extra programs you're not using. Beyond those very general fixes, I'm with oldturkey03. Please provide more information.