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Hi, I have a dualshock 4 controller that works perfectly fine if I use it with Bluetooth only except for the fact that...
Leer másHi, I have a dualshock 4 controller that works perfectly fine if I use it with Bluetooth only except for the fact that...
Leer másHi, my tv was struck by lightning and has suffered some damage, It has lost backlight power which I believe is due to a...
Leer másHi, I have a Samsung UE40H5303AK television which has a subtle flicker in the backlight. The leds go up and down slightly...
Leer másHi, I’ve just finished removing my S7 edge’s battery. Due to the strong adhesive the underside of the battery comes out...
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Yep, unfortunately it's almost certain that the PCH is dead. It should not get anywhere near as hot as you described especially with the metal heatsink on! Unfortunately unless you have the tools and skills to replace a BGA chipset there's not much hope to fix your laptop without replacing the motherboard. If you want to definitively make sure that the PCH is bad, check for shorted coils around the motherboard close to 0 ohms, be careful as the CPU/GPU coils will by design read very low resistance (2-6ohms). I'm almost certain you will find one that shows close to a dead short, and that It will be the output of the power supply for the PCH. Inject low voltage at high current and check what heats up.
Leer másHi! for the second board (blue one) I'd start by checking that resistor down near the main input wires. Looks like it's a fusible resistor so it should show close to 0ohms if it's good, next up I'd go ahead and check the mosfet, it's underneath where you see the large solder pads, it has 3 distinct tracks the large ones are drain and source and the small one is gate, If you have a multimeter you can use continuity mode, there should be no shorts between any of the pins, if that checks out fine go ahead and check the bridge rectifier, it's the 4 pin IC on the edge of the board, should not be shorted in any way, go ahead and check any secondary side diodes also. If those all check out then that leaves the feedback circuitry or driver IC which unfortunately is where I usually draw the line, as they're a major pain to get hold of and most usually don't even have an identifiable part number. For the first board it's the same procedure, however I don't see any type of fuse as you mentioned, not even a fusible...
Leer másLooks like the rubber piece that goes between the mainboard and the front glass to seal the proximity and brightness sensor on the mainboard. Here it is in a teardown video I found. And the corresponding sensors on the main board, circled in red: I really don't think it's worth re-opening the phone to place it back in, unless you notice any issues with proximity sensor which I believe is used to know when the phone is up against your ear taking calls to black out the screen, or the brightness sensor used to adjust screen brightness automatically. But I doubt there will be any issues without it
Leer másFirstly, check if you have unknowingly set an automatic shutoff timer in the TV settings. If that's not the case usually this symptom is indicative of faulty capacitors on the mainboard or power board of the TV at least with Samsung TV's. I suspect similar symptoms could occur on Sony TV's as well, If you're comfortable with doing so, you can open up the TV and check for any bulging capacitors on both the mainboard and the power supply board.
Leer másIf you're using ubuntu terminal to image your bootable media I would try suggesting using RUFUS instead, unfortunately it is a windows only tool (you might be able to get it up and running using something like Wine on linux), but it is the only tool with which I've had success creating bootable media for windows. Check it out here Make sure you use MBR as the partition scheme and BIOS or UEFI as the target system.
Leer másYour screen is most likely broken unfortunately, given that the phone still rings and vibrates it's still likely working apart from the screen. You'll have to replace it or get it replaced. Check out this IFIXIT guide on doing so, keep in mind your phone is not exactly the same as you have the 5G version, but the replacement is very similar!
Leer másPort needs to be replaced, given that wiggling the cable sometimes gets it to work I'm pretty sure it's not an APU graphics issue so that's very good. I wouldn't try to fish the bent pin back in as it's likely to do the same thing again and this time it might bridge to some other pin and kill your HDMI encoder IC which you'll then have to replace too. If you have some experience soldering you could do this yourself, although you will need a hot air gun and replacing the port is somewhat challenging due to the the amount of heat that the board sucks up. If you're not comfortable doing this, any decent repair shop should easily be able to do the job!
Leer másWithout further information, I cannot give you a definitive answer as to why it is doing that, but it seems from what you say that it's a charging issue. On the A70 most common issues are either the FPC connector on the main board is failing or possibly the battery has gotten too low for the phone to accept a charge. Try this first: Start by pressing with quite some force on the back of the phone around 1-2cm above the Samsung logo, then plug the phone back in to see if it charges. this might reseat the FPC connector inside the phone and get it charging again enough to recover your data, keep in mind these are not proper fixes and the phone is prone to have the same issue. So you should not continue using it after data recovery. If that does not work, next step would be to open the phone and start by check the battery voltage to see if it is too low. Good luck!
Leer másIf this happened suddenly, your hard drive is most likely dead. Go into the BIOS to check if it is detected there. If not, replace it and re-install windows and you'll be up and running again!
Leer másFrom what you describe it might be a mainboard issue, more specifically something related to the logic of the TV like the CPU. Given that it takes around 20 minutes to hang, it could be related to thermal stress on the CPU, could be cold or cracked joint on one of the solder balls underneath the CPU, in that case a fix would either necessitate a reflow, reball of the CPU or replacement of the mainboard itself. Of course I cannot assure that without further information, but it would be a good place to start. From my experience, if a tv shows the standby light and refuses to power on it indicates this type of issue. You might have gotten it to start once or twice by pure luck when the solder joints where making slight contact. Check out this video of someone attempting a reflow using a hot air gun, keep in mind these are not the proper tools, but If you have nothing to loose and want to give this a shot before buying a new mainboard go ahead! Be careful when working with TV's as they could contain dangerous...
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