It will require a technician to open it up and diagnose the problem. There is no simple fix for this.

Contact Logitech support for your country, they may simply replace the mouse for you free of charge. They will want the old one returned. I've done this for two mice.

In an effort to send you something of helpful value: http://www.britishexplorers.com/Kenwood%...

OKAY. FIRST : Let's describe what we see Image 1, you have highlighted in red a component marked on the board at position CR14. This looks like a diode. CR is an unusual label for a diode. I'm not 100% sure what it is. I have discovered that not all controllers have a component at CR14. Looking at board images, it appears to have one leg go through to the reverse sides GND plane. The other side.. maybe the top GND plane. Maybe it's ConnectoR14, a short. Either way I am not at all convinced that this is a SMD Capacitor, and that it's the source of your issue. So Q1.1 for you is, why do you think this is a cap, and why do you think it's broked? SECOND. The second image is not the same component. I cannot make out what you have captured here. It is clearly not CR14, or I am blind and/or stupid. So Q1.2 is: what is this? again, why do you think it's broked? THIRD: you have water damage on that controller. When ever someone doesn't mention water damage I become less keen to help. So my final Q to you, 1.3 is a...

Typically, the joy mech needs to be replaced. Here: Recambio de la tapa del joystick del DualSense Controller v2 This is the mech: https://i.imgur.com/oZltcrW.jpg The part can be obtained from here, ***here***, and possibly from ***https://www.ifixit.com/Retail***

I would presume: increased signal to noise ratio (bad), and a significant lack of over current protection (which could damage input gates) These devices are amplifying tiny signals, so they don't have much protection. 10 ohm in the leads at 1v is a max of 100mA, Microcontrollers (which are not ECG machines) don't like to see more than circa 60mA at sensor inputs. Replacing these leads with the correct type will run a cost around $50-$100. If you are using these in any type of health capacity, and you have a liability insurance policy in place, you might want to check if using incorrect leads will alter your insurance coverage.

Reemplazo de los altavoces de la consola Steam Deck You need to take more care with the cable plug. Try again. Submit a photo if you believe that you have damaged something during the repair.

these clicky, micro buttons can often do well after applying a drop of lubricant. You can remove the top case of the mouse, exposing the guts. Disassembly often requires removing screws which are hidden beneath the low friction Teflon stickers. Remove these with the edge of a blade. Try hard to pull them off without bending or curling them. Try hard to not touch the glue surface. "Sometimes the glue is ruined and you will need to re-glue them seeing that they fall off sometimes. Which is annoying. Don't be tempted to use superglue. Choose something flexible which sets rubbery, so we might be able to pull them off again one day." You will see clearly the micro button mechanisms for left/right, perhaps others. Take some WD40 and apply a single drop onto each micro switch. Leave the mouse be for a about an hour. Occasionally press the buttons a few times. We're giving time for the oil to seep inside and coat the teeny tiny mechanism. It will get inside, it just takes some time. Do not apply more oil....

provided that the leg damage is minimal, a good technician could try to bake the chip back onto the circuit. Problems are going to include: all plastic needs to be removed (it will melt). that battery needs to come out (it will burn). Is this something you could do yourself? No. It requires SMD soldering and the skill to perform it. Is this something which would be simple? No. What might it cost to pay someone to do it? Maybe $50. What is the likelihood of positive repair: Low. What other options do you have? wty replacement. You could find someone at Nintendo, petition them for merci, send to them the chip and plead a case for a freebie. (a new replacement)

I hope this explains a what/why on what may have occurred. My recommendation is, if it's no longer playing up, leave it. A rare occurrence with breville coffee machines is having the water pump flow when it shouldn't. The worst scenario I have heard about (from a tech, but not me) was one that would turn itself on, run the pump until all the water was gone. It's very uncommon, I only know about it affecting Breville. Breville is also marketed as Kambrook, Ronson, and in the UK 'SAGE'. What you're describing sounds like this, but impossible to say for sure. For the record, I love breville coffee machines, i've owned 4. The issue is with a leaky electrolytic capacitor in the power supply board, combined with the soft-start standby mode. Replacing that caps corrects the issue. That was 11 years ago for me, wow. Here is a post I added to about it. https://siber-sonic.com/appliance/800Electrical.html#n...