Sound to me like one of two things, #1 what ULOCK JOCKS said witch is the flex cable could be causing you some issues due to either minor damage from the closing up process or just came unseated. #2 in that corner of no response there could be a very minor hairline crack in one of the digitizer panels which could also be causing this issue for you either way screen has to come back off in-order for any further trouble shooting to happen on your part. Good luck let us know.

Please if you're unsure of doing it with a hair dryer or heat gun DON'T DO IT! iFixit has an awesome tool that works great for this iOpener

Usually when this occurs I would start looking at the spark plugs. Reason being is if your spark plugs are fouled is when this starts to occur. The other things you could look at is a replacement air filter, fuel filter and a oil change. If it has high milage I would suggest the Castrol High Milage for the oil if you can get it. You could also add Bardahl high milage when you do the oil change which would also help with maintaining the engine and cleaning up any gunk and carbon build up. Good luck

A few things could be going on here with this, to be honest : 1) Have you tried reseting the PRAM /SMC while its booting? 2) have you made a backup of the unit recently just in case of # 3 3) Could be HDD failure that it is not picking up the boot drive hence the fans are going nuts. Personally id start with one and then go from there if you do end up opening up the unit make sure to reseat and double check all your internal connections before replacing parts ie.HDD. Also make sure that you give the fans and the heat sinks a good cleaning with compressed air. Also be vary careful when you do open the unit that you DON'T rip off the display cables only open it with about two or three inches of clearance just enough to disconnect the cables. Personal Safety: When you decide to open the unit unplug the unit from the wall and let it sit for about 20 mins so that any residual power still in the power supply has time to bleed off. Otherwise you will be receiving a nice jolt from it if you decide to stick your...

Hi Casey, I dont suggest the road you are thinking of taking when it comes to switching the onboard MLB chips, there are multiple issues that you are liable to run into due to the fact that if you start switching out ID /serial/IMEI chipsets you might as well just switch one MLB for Another?! IMEI will switch as soon as you switch the MLB. Personally your making more work for yourself with a higher problem than solution yield. Be careful is all i can say to that question.

There could be a few things that could be causing your issues 1) check for storage available on your phone? If your storage is full or over full it could cause all sorts of problems, its most common on the 8GB and 16GB units. 2) Check your iOS software version if it is out of date? If this is out of date then I suggest doing a Backup of the phone via iTunes ( make sure its up to date also) and then restore and update the phone. After done restore your iTunes backup to your phone. (You can check both your iOS and storage by following : Settings > General > About. If you scroll down you will find all of the info for your phone. Good luck

What OS are you using to install with , if i may ask? If you're using SIERRA you'll definitely be running into some issues. It's easier to boot up to disk utility and starting with Yosemite in this case because from the looks of it there seems to be some underlying software issues that is not getting addressed. I'd format and start from scratch. Reason being for the simple fact that if you installed linux via boot camp and just deleted the partition via disk utility without changing the boot permissions before you did, this could explain the issues your having. Yes i know this is a long way of doing it but if the boots sector for your unit is corrupted there is not much other choice.

Hi Cheryl, usually when there are visible white lines present it could be one of two things: 1 > The unit came in contact with some form of moisture or liquid and was most likely completely accidental and might have never even known that it happened. AND 2) The unit has more than likely a slight bend in the unit that is applying pressure on the display cables or is applying pressure to the actual backlight/ Digitizer, This is most likely the cause of the white line that you can see. P.S One of the main reasons the person and the Apple store informed you that replacement is the only option is due to the fact that fixing a bend in any unit back to a 100% true is nearly impossible and also for the fact that Apple only recycles the damaged iPads and will never repair them as per the troubleshooting/ Service procedures concerning iPad's

It could be your IAC (Intake Air Controller) that is stuck in the open position which could explain the RPM's jumping around. Try removing it and spray cleaning it and then reinstalling. Make sure however that it is moving freely after the cleaning otherwise the issue will still be present.

Form what you said it sounds like you have a corrupted boot image which is why it could be giving you the certificate issue.