Introducción

Follow this guide to replace a broken front panel assembly on an iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi. The front panel or display assembly consists of the glass digitizer on top and the fused LCD underneath. In the iPad Air 2, these two parts are not separable and must be replaced as one piece.

Note that the fingerprint scanner in the home button is paired to the iPad's logic board. In order to maintain Touch ID functionality, you must transfer your original home button to the new display assembly.

This process can fix issues like a cracked glass digitizer, a non-responsive touchscreen, or a broken LCD screen.

Image 1/2: Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave. Image 2/2: For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.
  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Contestar

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

hello -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Contestar

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Contestar

Image 1/1: Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Contestar

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Contestar

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Contestar

Image 1/1: The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.
  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

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Image 1/3: Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. Image 2/3: This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display. Image 3/3: Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

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Image 1/1: Handling it by the tabs on either end, place a heated iOpener over the top edge of the iPad.
  • The following steps involve using an iOpener to soften the adhesive holding the front panel assembly in place. When using the iOpener, be sure to heat it in the microwave for no more than 30 seconds.

  • Handling it by the tabs on either end, place a heated iOpener over the top edge of the iPad.

  • Let the iOpener sit on the iPad for two minutes to soften the adhesive securing the front panel to the rest of the iPad.

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Image 1/3: As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas: Image 2/3: Home Button Image 3/3: Front Facing Camera
  • While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under certain portions of the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step.

  • As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:

    • Home Button

    • Front Facing Camera

    • Main Camera

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Image 1/2: To get the most leverage, place the suction cup as close to the edge as possible without going past the edge of the display. Image 2/2: To get the most leverage, place the suction cup as close to the edge as possible without going past the edge of the display.
  • Place a suction cup over the iPad's front-facing camera and press down to create a seal.

    • To get the most leverage, place the suction cup as close to the edge as possible without going past the edge of the display.

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Image 1/3: Do not pull too hard or you may shatter the glass. Image 2/3: Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap to prevent the adhesive from resealing. Image 3/3: Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
  • Firmly pull up on the suction cup to to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case.

    • Do not pull too hard or you may shatter the glass.

  • Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

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Image 1/3: If there is still a considerable amount of resistance when sliding the opening pick, repeat the iOpener heating procedure and apply additional heat. Image 2/3: Be careful not to let the opening pick slide between the fused LCD and front panel, as doing so can permanently damage the display. Image 3/3: A good rule of thumb is to never insert the opening pick more than a quarter inch into the iPad.
  • Slide the pick along the edge of the display, towards the headphone jack.

    • If there is still a considerable amount of resistance when sliding the opening pick, repeat the iOpener heating procedure and apply additional heat.

  • Be careful not to let the opening pick slide between the fused LCD and front panel, as doing so can permanently damage the display.

    • A good rule of thumb is to never insert the opening pick more than a quarter inch into the iPad.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Insert a second opening pick by the front-facing camera.

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  • Slide the second pick along the top edge of the iPad, towards the Sleep/Wake Button.

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  • Insert a third pick by the front-facing camera.

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  • Bring the right opening pick down and around the top right corner of the iPad.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Bring the left opening pick around the top left corner of the tablet.

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Image 1/1:
  • Reheat the iOpener and lay it over the right edge of the display to loosen the adhesive underneath.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Slide the right opening pick roughly halfway down the display.

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Image 1/1:
  • Reheat the iOpener and apply heat to the left side of the iPad.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Slide the left-hand opening pick about halfway down the edge of the display.

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Image 1/3: If necessary, reheat the adhesive on the right edge to loosen the display assembly. Image 2/3: If necessary, reheat the adhesive on the right edge to loosen the display assembly. Image 3/3: If necessary, reheat the adhesive on the right edge to loosen the display assembly.
  • Slide the opposite opening pick down to the bottom right corner of the iPad.

  • If necessary, reheat the adhesive on the right edge to loosen the display assembly.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Slide the left-hand opening pick down the edge of the display until you reach the corner.

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Image 1/1:
  • Use the iOpener to apply heat to the bottom edge of the iPad.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Bring the right-hand opening pick around the bottom corner of the iPad.

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Image 1/3: Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed. Always wait at least 2 minutes between heating sessions. Image 2/3: Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed. Always wait at least 2 minutes between heating sessions. Image 3/3: Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed. Always wait at least 2 minutes between heating sessions.
  • Repeat for the left-hand pick.

  • Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed. Always wait at least 2 minutes between heating sessions.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the right-hand opening pick at the bottom of the iPad.

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Image 1/3: Be very careful to not insert the pick more than a quarter inch into the display to avoid damaging the Home Button and display cables underneath. Image 2/3: Be very careful to not insert the pick more than a quarter inch into the display to avoid damaging the Home Button and display cables underneath. Image 3/3: Be very careful to not insert the pick more than a quarter inch into the display to avoid damaging the Home Button and display cables underneath.
  • Slide the left-hand opening pick along the bottom edge of the display, then remove it from the bottom right corner of the iPad.

  • Be very careful to not insert the pick more than a quarter inch into the display to avoid damaging the Home Button and display cables underneath.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Twist the remaining pick by the front-facing camera to separate the top edge of the display assembly from the rear case.

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Image 1/3: Pull the display slightly away from the bottom edge to completely separate it from the rear case. Image 2/3: Keep lifting until the display assembly is roughly perpendicular to the body of the iPad. Image 3/3: Do '''not''' attempt to remove the display yet—it is still attached to the rear case by three delicate ribbon cables.
  • Continue lifting the display assembly from the front-facing camera side.

  • Pull the display slightly away from the bottom edge to completely separate it from the rear case.

  • Keep lifting until the display assembly is roughly perpendicular to the body of the iPad.

    • Do not attempt to remove the display yet—it is still attached to the rear case by three delicate ribbon cables.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the single 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the battery terminals to their contacts on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Insert a battery isolation pick between the battery terminals and the contacts on the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Remove the bracket. Image 2/3: Remove the bracket. Image 3/3: Remove the bracket.
  • Remove the three 1.3mm Phillips screws from the display cable bracket.

  • Remove the bracket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board.

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  • Disconnect the two remaining digitizer cables underneath the display data cable.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

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Image 1/3: Use a plastic opening tool to pry the  bracket off the back of the Home Button. Image 2/3: When transferring the bracket to your new display assembly, use a dab of adhesive to secure the bracket to the display. Image 3/3: When transferring the bracket to your new display assembly, use a dab of adhesive to secure the bracket to the display.
  • Lay the display assembly facedown.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the bracket off the back of the Home Button.

  • When transferring the bracket to your new display assembly, use a dab of adhesive to secure the bracket to the display.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Remove the Home Button bracket and peel up the tape connected to it.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Peel up the tape covering the Home Button ZIF connector.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the Home Button cable socket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Disconnect the Home Button ribbon cable.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel up the Home Button ribbon cable and Touch ID control chip.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Peel up the remaining corner of the Home Button ribbon cable.

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Image 1/1: Wait about two minutes for the adhesive to soften before moving on to the next step.
  • Reheat your iOpener and lay it over the bottom edge of the display to loosen the adhesive on the Home Button gasket.

    • Wait about two minutes for the adhesive to soften before moving on to the next step.

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Image 1/3: Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently pry the Home Button assembly up from the display. Image 2/3: Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently pry the Home Button assembly up from the display. Image 3/3: Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently pry the Home Button assembly up from the display.
  • In the following steps, you will be separating the home button gasket from the iPad's front panel. This gasket is extremely delicate and can tear easily. If the gasket does not separate easily from the front panel, reapply heat using the iOpener before continuing.

  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently pry the Home Button assembly up from the display.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Continue working the tip of the spudger around the edge of the gasket until the gasket is fully separated from the front panel.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the home button assembly.

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Image 1/1:
  • Display assembly remains.

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Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

38 personas más completaron esta guía.

Evan Noronha

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What about the part soldered to the display to the left of the home button? It's showcased in step 43 but hidden with black tape then missing in step 44? What is the significants of this component or flex cable...

jmcdonough - Contestar

Where is the transfer of the sleep/wake sensor? its a 4 point solder connection.

Anthony W - Contestar

Be careful if you replace the home button bracket, many of the replacements do not have the small silver disc that sits in the recess on the inside of the bracket. If you do not transfer this from the old one, the home button will not work as there will be nothing for the home button to press against

waynechamberlain - Contestar

can you describe how to transfer the sensor flex cable assembly (four small solder points left to home button on step 45)?

No use to buy your spare part without this step!

kaspar - Contestar

Having the same problem as Kaspar. Cannot re-install sleep/wake sensor.

Christopher Williams - Contestar

Looking for the display cable bracket, but it is impossible to find. Anyone?

Stefan L - Contestar

I´ve replace LCD Display for newer one because crash it before, but the actual problem is that I don´t have any image. If I press the power button, just display gray color. What can I do?

David Reva - Contestar

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