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Introducción

Si tienes que utilizar el altavoz para obtener el audio durante una llamada telefónica , es posible que tengas que cambiar el altavoz del auricular. Sigue los pasos de esta guía para sustituir el altavoz del auricular en un iPhone 6s.

  1. Antes de desarmar su iPhone, descarga la batería por debajo del 25%. Una batería de litio-ion cargada puede generar fuego o explotar si es perforada accidentalmente.
    • Antes de desarmar su iPhone, descarga la batería por debajo del 25%. Una batería de litio-ion cargada puede generar fuego o explotar si es perforada accidentalmente.

    • Apaga tu iPhone antes de empezar a desarmar.

    • Remueve los dos tornillos Pentalobe P2 de 3.4 mm que se encuentran cerca del conector Lightning en el borde inferior de su iPhone.

    Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

    Janet Monaghen - Contestar

    @beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

    alexanderbrix1987 - Contestar

    Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

    Keith Hockenbeck - Contestar

    Is it ok to replace the battery if the phone screen is broken?

    Reem - Contestar

    Of course! As long as the screen and battery are disconnected from the motherboard, you can replace anything!

    Charles Bejarano -

    is it possible to change my battery on my iphone 6s and use a battery that has been already used in another 6s

    morgan durnford - Contestar

    Yeah it would work, but if the battery heath on the 2nd battery is bad, just get a new one.

    Charles Bejarano -

    @moe6802 Removing the battery can damage it, and it shouldn’t be used afterward. It may seem fine, but even minor battery damage can lead to a fire hazard. Not worth it for such a cheap part. If you need a battery, just get a new one.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you discharge a battery? Do you just let the battery drain or is there something less time consuming that you can do?

    Matthew Petts - Contestar

    There is no easy way to discharge the battery in “less time”. Perhaps the fastest way is to play a visually-complex modern game or otherwise make your phone do a lot of work.

    Lance J -

    So my phone screen is completely black causing me to see nothing that is on my screen. And the battery is above 25%, near 100%. What do I do??

    Jessica I - Contestar

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li -

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li - Contestar

  2. Insertar traducción aquí
    • Insertar traducción aquí

    • Opcionalmente, aplique calor suave en el borde inferior del iPhone usando un iOpener o un secador de pelo durante aproximadamente un minuto. El calor suaviza el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, lo que facilita su apertura.

    What about specifying the hot air temperature?

    Nicola Centrone - Contestar

    The glue softens pretty easily, so the exact temperature isn’t critical. Get it slightly too hot to touch. If you have trouble, heat it a little more and try again.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    What temperature on the screen separator lcd machine and for how long?

    Manraj Gulati - Contestar

  3. La apertura de la pantalla en los 6s separa una tira delgada de adhesivo alrededor del perímetro de la pantalla . Es posible completar la reparación sin tener que reemplazar el adhesivo  y probablemente no notarás  ninguna diferencia en la funcionalidad .
    • La apertura de la pantalla en los 6s separa una tira delgada de adhesivo alrededor del perímetro de la pantalla . Es posible completar la reparación sin tener que reemplazar el adhesivo y probablemente no notarás ninguna diferencia en la funcionalidad .

    • Aplica una ventosa en la esquina inferior izquierda del ensamblaje de la pantalla .

    • Ten cuidado de no colocar la ventosa sobre el botón de inicio .

    Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

    Pablo Reyes - Contestar

    The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

    johnmurphyjr - Contestar

    Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

    Nick Stine -

    Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

    Peter Bovey - Contestar

    For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

    Frank Terence - Contestar

    Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

    Joe Koffee - Contestar

    The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

    Mandy Ng - Contestar

    Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

    Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

    Any info would be appreciated.

    https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

    Michael Magor - Contestar

    I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

    jeffreyleung2002 - Contestar

    I can only suggest to use a hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive underneath the display. Mine was stuck so hard it wouldn't barely move. After warming ist up I could softly pull ist up with way less power

    olonetzky - Contestar

    A question, has anyone had success removing a cracked (not shattered) screen? My phone has a single diagonal crack from the top right corner down to the left side. Will the suction cup still work?

    goblazers - Contestar

  4. Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa con una presión firme y constante para crear un pequeño espacio entre el panel frontal y la caja trasera. Toma tu  tiempo y aplica fuerza firme y constante. El ensamblaje de la pantalla tiene un ajuste más ceñido que la mayoría de los dispositivos y se mantiene presionado con adhesivo.
    • Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa con una presión firme y constante para crear un pequeño espacio entre el panel frontal y la caja trasera.

    • Toma tu tiempo y aplica fuerza firme y constante. El ensamblaje de la pantalla tiene un ajuste más ceñido que la mayoría de los dispositivos y se mantiene presionado con adhesivo.

    • Tirar demasiado fuerte puede dañar el ensamblaje de la pantalla . Aplica suficiente presión para crear un pequeño espacio entre el ensamblaje de la pantalla y la caja trasera.

    • Si tienes algún problema, calienta la parte frontal de iPhone utilizando un iOpener, secador de pelo, o una pistola de aire caliente hasta que esté ligeramente demasiado caliente para tocar. Esto ayudará a ablandar el adhesivo que sujeta los bordes de la pantalla.

    No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

    chuymatt - Contestar

    Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

    plisi - Contestar

    If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

    Bryan - Contestar

    I got a fingernail on the metal edge and that did the trick.

    David Heinbach -

    On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

    scentaur - Contestar

    My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

    Heidi Moser - Contestar

    Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

    amylofton - Contestar

    What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

    Jaredrett - Contestar

    hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

    David Althaus - Contestar

    Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

    Goodluck!!

    -J

    Jaredrett - Contestar

    The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

    Jeff - Contestar

    Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

    Todd Leach - Contestar

    Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

    Mary Blocher - Contestar

    Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

    Tyler Brady - Contestar

    The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

    greghabiby - Contestar

    Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

    Carolann Parran - Contestar

    Me too! Be gentle!

    Matthew Simoenau -

    Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

    Eric Olson - Contestar

    Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

    emaneht - Contestar

    Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

    Steve Esson - Contestar

    Yes, I used the tip of a sharp knife as a pry tool to get me started. Since the screen was cracked anyway I figured I had nothing to lose. It went fine.

    David Heinbach -

    Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)

    Christian Woelk - Contestar

  5. Hay una pequeña muesca en la parte inferior de la pantalla, justo por encima de la toma de auriculares. Este es el lugar más seguro para comenzar a hacer palanca para abrir el teléfono. Coloca el borde plano de la herramienta spudger en el espacio entre la pantalla y la caja trasera, justo encima de la toma de auriculares.
    • Hay una pequeña muesca en la parte inferior de la pantalla, justo por encima de la toma de auriculares. Este es el lugar más seguro para comenzar a hacer palanca para abrir el teléfono.

    • Coloca el borde plano de la herramienta spudger en el espacio entre la pantalla y la caja trasera, justo encima de la toma de auriculares.

    WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

    As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

    Jason - Contestar

    If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had a badly cracked screen. Packing tape helped the suction cup stick. Heating the phone helped soften the adhesive, and in the end I pried the screen up at the headphone jack with a sharp pointy knife. That helped me get the spudger underneath. Not recommended if the screen is ok, like for a battery replacement, but mine was cracked so I figured I had nothing to lose. Great guide.

    David Heinbach - Contestar

    There are two relatively delicate brackets that the two P2 Pentalobe screws screw into. They can be easily bent during this prying open process. I ruined one on my phone and I’m hoping the phone will function with just one bracket.

    dougdalglish - Contestar

  6. Tuerce el spudger para ensanchar la brecha entre el panel frontal y el resto del teléfono. Tuerce el spudger para ensanchar la brecha entre el panel frontal y el resto del teléfono.
    • Tuerce el spudger para ensanchar la brecha entre el panel frontal y el resto del teléfono.

    No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

    Martin Born - Contestar

  7. Inserta el extremo plano del spudger en el lado izquierdo del teléfono , entre la pantalla y la caja trasera. Desliza el spudger por el costado del teléfono para separar el adhesivo y hacer saltar los clips.
    • Inserta el extremo plano del spudger en el lado izquierdo del teléfono , entre la pantalla y la caja trasera.

    • Desliza el spudger por el costado del teléfono para separar el adhesivo y hacer saltar los clips.

    I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

    Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

    Martin Born - Contestar

    Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

    Bryan Solo -

    Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

    Kevin - Contestar

  8. Retira el spudger y vuelve a introducirlo en el borde inferior, en  donde esta ya el teléfono abierto. Desliza el spudger hacia la derecha, a lo largo del borde inferior del teléfono.
    • Retira el spudger y vuelve a introducirlo en el borde inferior, en donde esta ya el teléfono abierto.

    • Desliza el spudger hacia la derecha, a lo largo del borde inferior del teléfono.

  9. Desliza el spudger por todo el lado derecho para seguir separando el adhesivo y hacer saltar los clips de la pantalla del teléfono . Desliza el spudger por todo el lado derecho para seguir separando el adhesivo y hacer saltar los clips de la pantalla del teléfono .
    • Desliza el spudger por todo el lado derecho para seguir separando el adhesivo y hacer saltar los clips de la pantalla del teléfono .

  10. Kits de Reparación de Android

    A new screen or battery is one kit away.

    Comprar Ahora

    Kits de Reparación de Android

    A new screen or battery is one kit away.

    Comprar Ahora
  11. Utiliza la ventosa para abrir la pantalla y separar todo el adhesivo. No abras la pantalla más de 90º , ya que todavía está conectada por dentro, en la parte superior, por tres cables que se podrían romper si se tira demasiado.
    • Utiliza la ventosa para abrir la pantalla y separar todo el adhesivo.

    • No abras la pantalla más de 90º , ya que todavía está conectada por dentro, en la parte superior, por tres cables que se podrían romper si se tira demasiado.

    Prop it up on something

    Nick Stine - Contestar

    an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

    Christa - Contestar

  12. Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa  para sacar el panel frontal. Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa  para sacar el panel frontal.
    • Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa para sacar el panel frontal.

  13. Agarra suavemente el ensamblaje de la pantalla y tira de él hacia arriba para abrir el teléfono , utilizando los clips en la parte superior del panel frontal como una bisagra. Abre la pantalla en un ángulo de 90º , e inclínala  contra algo para mantenerla apoyada mientras se está trabajando en el teléfono. Añadir una banda de goma para mantener la pantalla en su lugar mientras se trabaja . Esto evita la tensión indebida en los cables de la pantalla .
    • Agarra suavemente el ensamblaje de la pantalla y tira de él hacia arriba para abrir el teléfono , utilizando los clips en la parte superior del panel frontal como una bisagra.

    • Abre la pantalla en un ángulo de 90º , e inclínala contra algo para mantenerla apoyada mientras se está trabajando en el teléfono.

    • Añadir una banda de goma para mantener la pantalla en su lugar mientras se trabaja . Esto evita la tensión indebida en los cables de la pantalla .

    • En caso de necesidad , se puede utilizar una bebida en lata sin abrir para mantener la pantalla.

    Smart idea :)

    x226 - Contestar

    on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

    Mirza Zohaib - Contestar

    It said about 90 degrees

    Nick Stine -

    In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

    jonl - Contestar

  14. Retira los dos tornillos Phillips 000 que fijan el soporte de conector de la batería:
    • Retira los dos tornillos Phillips 000 que fijan el soporte de conector de la batería:

    • Un tornillo de 2.9 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.2 mm

    • Durante esta reparación, mantén un registro de cada tornillo y asegúrate que vuelvan exactamente de donde vinieron para evitar dañar tu iPhone.

    In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

    lionno1 - Contestar

    Please! Please! Please! Invest in a Magnetic Project Mat or its equivalent from fixit. It will assist you with completing your repair.

    Ian Baldwin - Contestar

    I just taped down a 8.5 x 11 white piece of paper on my desk and drew a rough image of it, then ‘taped’ the screw I removed to the “image” on paper. It worked just fine. (My first time ever opening an iphone, so give it a shot!)

    italianchick99 - Contestar

    If you missed it from the beginning (like I did) it’s the #000 Philips for all screws except the Pentalobes.

    Max Cox - Contestar

    if you get a plastic ice cube tray, and a fine marker pen, text the sizes on each cube compartment as you follow the guide, also stops the screws getting lost

    Brendan Cranny - Contestar

  15. Retira el soporte del conector de la batería del iPhone. Retira el soporte del conector de la batería del iPhone.
    • Retira el soporte del conector de la batería del iPhone.

  16. Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el conector de la batería haciendo palanca hacia arriba de la placa lógica . Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el conector de la batería haciendo palanca hacia arriba de la placa lógica . Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el conector de la batería haciendo palanca hacia arriba de la placa lógica .
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el conector de la batería haciendo palanca hacia arriba de la placa lógica .

    Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

    Andrew spoelstra - Contestar

    Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

    William Turner -

    It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

    Frank - Contestar

    Thanks for the tip, Frank.

    William Turner -

    SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

    enoughstatic - Contestar

    It sounds like several people, including myself, had trouble charging the new replacement battery past about 10%. This ended up being due to the new battery not having a non-conductive insulator. The way to solve this is by adding a small piece of electrical tape to cover the battery connector before screwing in the battery connector bracket over it. You may want to do this on the first go-around.

    If you do experience that problem, I found the answer here and it worked perfectly: iPhone battery not charging after DIY battery replacement. Why?

    Heather Pastushok - Contestar

  17. Empuja el conector de la batería lejos de la placa base hasta que se quede separada de su zócalo , a fin de evitar cualquier conexión accidental a la batería mientras trabaja. Empuja el conector de la batería lejos de la placa base hasta que se quede separada de su zócalo , a fin de evitar cualquier conexión accidental a la batería mientras trabaja.
    • Empuja el conector de la batería lejos de la placa base hasta que se quede separada de su zócalo , a fin de evitar cualquier conexión accidental a la batería mientras trabaja.

    If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

    If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

    Edward Dziuk - Contestar

    Amazing tip Edward, I followed your tip exactly and agree to definitely remove the “TAPTIC”

    italianchick99 -

    Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

    Rajendra - Contestar

  18. Retira los cuatro tornillos Phillips que fijan el soporte de cable de la pantalla
    • Retira los cuatro tornillos Phillips que fijan el soporte de cable de la pantalla

    • Tres tornillos de 1.2 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2,8 mm

    Thank you for this great guide!

    I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

    So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

    scentaur - Contestar

    The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

    Harry Allinson - Contestar

    I’m also having this issue now, what did you do to get the screw out?

    Belmin Husanovic -

    why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

    robertdjclark - Contestar

    Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

    David Shaddock - Contestar

    The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

    anujfolsom - Contestar

    I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

    GiovanniB - Contestar

    I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

    Anyone have the same issue?

    Evander Lorenz - Contestar

    A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

    Peter Bovey - Contestar

    what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

    mshary alzhrany - Contestar

    The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

    Matthias Wagner - Contestar

    I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

    Scott Young - Contestar

    @scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

    Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

    Thomas Kintigh - Contestar

    I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

    Peter Bovey -

    The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

    laffinbuz - Contestar

    I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

    Alex Mufatti - Contestar

    @alexmufatti I had the same exact issue and luckily came across the same solution by trial and error. However a few weeks later Touch ID suddenly stopped working again and I think it’s the same issue. I was hoping somebody came across a more permanent solution.

    Michel Chemas -

    I was nervous not following this guide step-by-step, but as others mentioned I did not have the correct ‘bit’ size to remove the 3 screws circled in ‘red’ in the above diagram. I skipped steps 17, 18, 19 BUT used the ‘tip’ in step 11 to prop the front screen without removing the front display completely and I was still able to replace battery.

    italianchick99 - Contestar

    how to measure the screw? from the head or from under the head?

    Balieltello - Contestar

  19. Retira el soporte del cable de la pantalla. Retira el soporte del cable de la pantalla.
    • Retira el soporte del cable de la pantalla.

  20. Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger , o una uña , para desconectar el cable de la cámara de flexión delantera haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde la base correspondiente en la placa lógica. Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger , o una uña , para desconectar el cable de la cámara de flexión delantera haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde la base correspondiente en la placa lógica.
    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger , o una uña , para desconectar el cable de la cámara de flexión delantera haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde la base correspondiente en la placa lógica.

    Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

    David Rogers - Contestar

    I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

    Kenneth Hilstan - Contestar

    pad under earspeaker is lost, where to buy?

    Balieltello - Contestar

  21. Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger, o una uña , para desconectar el cable digitalizador haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde la base correspondiente en la placa lógica. Cuando vuelvas a conectar el cable del digitalizador, no presiones el centro del conector. Presiona un extremo del conector y después presiona el extremo opuesto. Al presionar el centro del conector puede doblar el componente y causar daños al digitalizador.
    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger, o una uña , para desconectar el cable digitalizador haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde la base correspondiente en la placa lógica.

    • Cuando vuelvas a conectar el cable del digitalizador, no presiones el centro del conector. Presiona un extremo del conector y después presiona el extremo opuesto. Al presionar el centro del conector puede doblar el componente y causar daños al digitalizador.

    I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

    gbmazur - Contestar

    Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

    David Shaddock - Contestar

    Patience. I had trouble but after some time got it back in. Didn’t have to rearrange anything like above ^. Maybe the design was changed.

    Cbirdsey - Contestar

    I have no audio through the earpiece after completing the process. I have removed and reseated all cables several times. What’s wrong?

    Tobin Antpusat - Contestar

  22. Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o reconectar el cable es este paso. Desconectar el cable de pantalla haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o reconectar el cable es este paso.

    • Desconectar el cable de pantalla haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

    Bailey Duncan - Contestar

    There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

    Scott Young - Contestar

    I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

    Amanda Cooper (Doula) - Contestar

    Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

    Alex Tanner -

    I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

    Dennis Gagomiros - Contestar

    You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?

    goesprotocall -

    My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

    cellabella1 - Contestar

    The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  23. Retira el ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

    cdinger - Contestar

    There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

    Ira Goldman - Contestar

    Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

    Ira Goldman - Contestar

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

    Bryan Solo - Contestar

    My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

    Ben - Contestar

    When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

    Joep Willemsen - Contestar

    be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

    Christa - Contestar

  24. Retira los tres tornillos Phillips que fijan el soporte del altavoz del auricular:
    • Retira los tres tornillos Phillips que fijan el soporte del altavoz del auricular:

    • Dos tornillos de 2.3 mm

    • Un tornillo de 1.3 mm

    are you sure it's long, short, long. From what it looks like, it's long, long, short.

    garegin - Contestar

    Yup, you're right! We've updated the guide accordingly. Thanks for the heads up.

    Evan Noronha -

  25. Levanta y retira el soporte del altavoz del auricular, despegando la junta de soporte a medida que avanzas. Pelar la junta con cuidado, ya que es delgada y se puede cortar con facilidad . Pelar la junta con cuidado, ya que es delgada y se puede cortar con facilidad .
    • Levanta y retira el soporte del altavoz del auricular, despegando la junta de soporte a medida que avanzas.

    • Pelar la junta con cuidado, ya que es delgada y se puede cortar con facilidad .

    I temoved the gasket while changing screen. What does the gasket actually do? Is it necessary?

    Atte Veijola - Contestar

    Also removed gasket while replacing screen. The phone is now in a startup loop. It won't turn on while unplugged- when plugged to wall outlet, it starts to point of displaying Apple logo then restarts. Could this be a cause?

    foibuls - Contestar

    Gasket thing literally does nothing. Couldn't get it back on properly so I peeled the flimsy thing off. No issues with my phone at all.

    Jaspal Goshal - Contestar

    Gasket does not seem to have any connection or logic. I just let it be when I could not fit it. Worked fine.

    Niklas Magnusson - Contestar

    Isn't the gasket some sort of water resistant seal?

    Nick Stine - Contestar

    Gasket always breaks during reinstalling but so far no negative effects.

    Steve - Contestar

    I couldn’t fit the gasket back around the metallic piece it surrounds. It run short and I couldn’t reach the bracket screw hole with the gasket screw hole so I left it loose. Everything seems to work fine. But I guess it is there for some reason so I am a bit uneasy….

    Homero - Contestar

    I’ve never gotten this rubber piece on without it ripping . I’ve never had a problem with the operation of the phone upon reassembly. I wouldn’t worry about it.

    mcr4u2 - Contestar

  26. Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para empujar la cámara de frente de su alojamiento. Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para empujar la cámara de frente de su alojamiento.
    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para empujar la cámara de frente de su alojamiento.

    It took me a while to realize this while reassembling, but my replacement screen didn’t have a “housing” for the front-facing camera. I finally spotted a clear plastic piece in the broken screen, which provided a circular collar that was the camera housing. I was able to take it out and snap it into the equivalent spot on the replacement screen.

    Richard - Contestar

  27. Tira hacia atrás de la cámara frontal para acceder al altavoz del auricular. Remueve el altavoz del auricular.
    • Tira hacia atrás de la cámara frontal para acceder al altavoz del auricular.

    • Remueve el altavoz del auricular.

    Can I replace the iPhone 6s earpiece speaker with my phone iphone 6? The newer earpiece speaker seems more advanced.

    Yaser 777 - Contestar

    I have the same question. They look like the same speaker. Are they compatible?

    The Wizard - Contestar

    The problem might not be the earpiece speaker! I replaced mine and had no improvement in quality. After reviewing forums, I suspected the earpiece screen was dirty/plugged. I disassembled the phone again, removed the earpiece speaker, carefully scraped and poked at the earpiece screen until a flashlight revealed the holes were clear. After a quick reassembly, playback of a voicemail verified full volume has been restored. Since you’re in there anyway, whether the problem is the screen or the speaker, clean the screen and replace the speaker.

    toddniehaus - Contestar

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar el dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

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Evan Noronha

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Very rarely do you have to replace these guys. If your earphone piece ever seems to go quiet on you then most likely it is just dirt that is clogging the grill between the ear piece and your ear. To fix this you need to remove the ear piece and clean out the grill from the ear piece side with a toothbrush and alcohol. Dont attempt this while the screen is on because you can either destroy the ear piece or also just clog it.

Gadget Tech - PDX - Contestar

i broke the bracket gasket when trying to wrap it back around when putting it back together, is it necessary for the overall function of the phone?

Michelle Kuhn - Contestar

I did the same thing last night and I am also wondering if it is vital to keep intact?

takethesplit -

Nice work. Thank you very much.

sarklinmusthaq - Contestar

Worked like a charm! Thanks!!!!

J Sharp - Contestar

Please add that suggestion to clean the gasket into the instructions… I closed the phone before I saw that comment. Good comment!

Christa - Contestar

is an iphone 6 speaker compatible with an iphone 6s speaker ?

enzodj2001 - Contestar

Is this same part whit iPhone 6

hkim hkimxhkim - Contestar

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