Introducción
ADVERTENCIA DE PITA: ESTA COMPUTADORA PORTÁTIL ES UNA GRAN PITA PARA TRABAJAR DEBIDO A LA CANTIDAD DE DESMONTAJE NECESARIO PARA ACCEDER AL DISCO DURO. Planea pasar mucho tiempo clasificando tornillos y quitando varias partes (lo que no habría sido un problema si la computadora portátil hubiera sido diseñada pensando en la reparación). Si rompes el reposamanos de una manera que requiere reemplazo, ¡será un error muy costoso! ¡Tómate tu tiempo y conoce tus habilidades antes de abrir este portátil!
NOTA DEL AUTOR (agregado para transparencia): Personalmente, no considero que esta sea una reparación difícil; sin embargo, sé cómo hacer que estas horribles máquinas sean más fáciles de abrir para principiantes.
Si el disco duro de tu sistema ha fallado o simplemente deseas reemplazar el disco existente en tu sistema con un SSD o una unidad giratoria más grande, esta guía te mostrará cómo acceder al disco duro para reemplazarlo.
Notas de guía
- 'La clasificación de los tornillos es primordial. Esta computadora portátil usa muchos tornillos y múltiples longitudes. Los tornillos no se pueden intercambiar.''
- Considera llevar esta serie de laptops a un taller de reparación si no puedes completar esta reparación debido a la cantidad que debe desprenderse para acceder a la unidad, o lee PRIMERO la guía completa.
- Este portátil acepta unidades de 7 mm y 9,5 mm. Ambas unidades utilizan los mismos topes.
- Prueba la computadora parcialmente desarmada ANTES de volver a armarla. Se requiere un desarmado completo para corregir cualquier problema.
Qué necesitas
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Apaga la computadora portátil hasta que hiberne o se apague. No cortes la energía hasta que ambas luces se apaguen.
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Una vez que la computadora esté apagada, retire la batería. Deslice la pestaña de bloqueo a la posición desbloqueada
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Retire la batería. Tire de la batería hacia adelante y extráigala de la computadora portátil.
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Quita el tornillo que sujeta la unidad óptica. Para hacer esto, usa un destornillador Phillips # 0. Desliza la unidad óptica hacia afuera una vez que se quita el tornillo
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Con los tornillos del reposa manos retirados, quita los tornillos debajo de la unidad óptica. Utiliza un destornillador Phillips # 000.
Mine has been worn out due to excessive use. What should I use to remove this screw?
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Una vez se retire la batería y la unidad óptica, retira los 11 tornillos que aseguran el reposamanos.
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Este tornillo está oculto con un sticker. Si se pierde/daña, es solo cosmético.
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No se encuentra en todos los modelos. En algunos modelos, hay tornillos en esta área. Si encuentras tornillos aquí, debes quitarlos.
Caution: There are two additional screws on some models in the battery pack area on the far left and right of single screw shown in the picture above. Make sure to remove those screws as they are also securing the back of the palm rest to the computer.
Good catch. I made the assumption all machines in the P series come apart the same way since multiple chassis in the same line are rare. What model machine do you have?
Now that I’ve looked at my picture, I think I know what you’re talking about. I think you’re taking about the square areas that were never used on my machine?
Nick -
I added a marker to account for this. I meant to do it sooner, but it slipped past me. Let me know if I put the markers in the wrong location. I have not seen one of these, so I don’t know with 100% certainty.
Nick -
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Retira las tapas de las bisagras. Para hacer esto, retira las almohadillas de goma. Utiliza un destornillador Phillips # 0.
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Quita los tornillos debajo de las tapas de las bisagras. Para hacer esto, usa un destornillador Phillips # 0.
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Pasa una herramienta de plástico alrededor de los 3 lados del reposamanos. Una vez que estén sueltos, desconecta el teclado y el trackpad. Levanta las lengüetas negras de plástico de los conectores y desconecta los cables.
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Una vez que se desconectan el teclado y el panel táctil, se puede levantar el reposamanos. En algunos casos, puede ser necesario hacer palanca adicional.
>Step 8 Remove the palmrest
>Do not remove the palmrest.
lolwut
Not sure if you’re being serious or sarcastic. If you’re serious, it says it in the line you quoted that from why it has to wait.
Nick -
This is very difficult to remove. I managed to get the hard drive removed without removing it completely. The corners would not come loose and I didn’t want to risk cracking the palmrest.
The trick I’ve used on this HP chaissis is I will go over the back tabs with more attention then the rest, and then go over it again just to be sure.
The alternative is to buy anything else that isn’t awful to service, but sadly if you own it you can’t do much about it.
Nick -
NOTE! The ONLY cloning tool that created bootable (HP Pavillion) clone was DiskGenius software's "OS Migrate" button. I spent tens of hours with other software only to experience BSOD's (Blue screen of death) during the boot-up. Windows 8.1 install DVD's standard Command line boot repair tools could not fix the issues that other cloning tools created. The cloning tools tried were Acronis, Clonezilla, Macrium Reflect but they produced unbootable laptop. DiskGenius is not the cutest software but I wish I had it in the beginning. My two cents..
- Teemu ParkkunenEDIT: On my previous comment I mentioned that DiskGenius was the the only working option for this Windows 8.1 Pavillion cloning. Now it turned out that the target SSD was faulty. There was bad sector on boot area. This may have contributed to the fact that cloning was a hit or miss process. So feel free to try any cloning sofware.
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Con el teclado y el trackpad desconectados, desconecte el botón de encendido. Gira la pestaña negra hacia arriba y retira el reposa manos.
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Desconectar el cable flexible plano sobre el disco duro. Para hacer esto, levanta la pestaña de bloqueo negra y retira el cable desde el zócalo ZIF.
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Para retirar el disco duro, inclinarla hacia delante empezando por la interfaz SATA. Una vez retirado, apartarlo como se muestra.
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Desconectar el cable de la unidad. Sacude el cable hasta que se libere. No retires el cable a la fuerza. Los sistemas no revisados pueden estar más ajustados que los revisados.
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Retira los parachoques de la unidad antigua. Transfiéralos al nuevo disco duro.
Personally I found this more of a pain in the ass than difficult. I would give it a moderate to moderately difficult. I only propped up the keyboard enough to remove the hard drive. Thus eliminating the need to fiddle with the ribbon cables for the keyboard. I replaced the drive with a SSD and used double sided foam sticky tape instead of replacing the rubber rails...pain in the ass, and who cares, the tape worked better anyway. Took me about 30 minutes.
The reason for the conservative rating is the user error issues I have run into with this guide. I tried lowering it to Moderate and it led to issues and a dispute about the guide. I'm not opposed to lowering it with a PITA warning, but that put me off to lowering it further.
Nick -
What kind of SSD can I install in this machine? It came with a regular HD.
Any SATA SSD is fair game.
Nick -
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Para reensamblar este equipo, siga las instrucciones en orden inverso
Una vez probado y reensamblado, deberás instalar un sistema operativo. Instala cualquier OS que quieras.
Para reensamblar este equipo, siga las instrucciones en orden inverso
Una vez probado y reensamblado, deberás instalar un sistema operativo. Instala cualquier OS que quieras.
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35 comentarios
Some hp pavilions you need to detach the keyboard first, then, and only then, can you access the screws that hold the palmrest!
This isn't the case on the P series. The keyboard is welded in with plastic so the top piece and keyboard is a singular component.
Nick -
Thanks, Nick. Great guide, took me about 20 mins to get this done.
That’s good to know. I said 2 hours to cover for users who will take a little longer to complete the repair. The difficulty also reflects on that.
Nick -
Dear Nick,
Thank you for the info. My Wife’s laptop is a slightly different version but I was able to install a SSD today. What a nightmare! I’ve never known a laptop to be so difficult to upgrade.
Cheers!
Andy
Most laptops aren't this horrible. HP is special in this regard.
You're the second person to mention variation between models. It seems like when it happens it's a minor change and it isn't an issue to adapt.
Nick -
This guide was perfect for my mothers laptop. There were small variations, but nothing that a little common sense couldn’t help out with.
Was it similar to the previous mentions of additional screws under the battery bay? I’m just trying to get these variations documented so there’s a known list to refer to.
Nick -
I am using HP pavilion 15-p laptop, I want to use caddy bay for my computer, but I don't know what is it the size of dvd.
And what SSD type I should buy if I want to change it with original HDD.
And thanks for the guide
Looks like a 9.5mm drive from eyesight and experience. Any SSD should work so that's not an issue.
I didn't get a notification for this comment. :(
Nick -
Great instructions. I'll let you know how mine turned out.
his guide was exact for the HP Pavilion 15-p051us model. I was able to access the HDD without completely removing the keyboard. Gently lift up on the front of the keyboard, and you shroud be able to remove the old HDD. I also think this should be rated a moderate job. I took less than 20 minutes to complete, and believe me I am not that good. Trickiest part for me as usual is the %#*@ ribbon cables. Sandisk SSD fits perfectly.
I set it to difficult to communicate to end users this repair is a pain to do.
That said, I'll consider it. I made this a few years ago when I was a bit looser about setting the difficulty.
Nick -
I &&^&@@ up with the last screw and i cant continue with the guide even tho it is quite straight-forward to follow. You require a bit of skill but not to much. This is a great guide tho.
That’s why I rated it difficult and was quite blunt about how difficult the job is. I’m assuming you’re talking about the optical drive screw(s). If you can safely drill it out with a very small bit (while being very careful!), you’ll recover but that area will always feel looser then the other parts of the chassis.
It’s not impossible, but yeah… This is not someone’s first DIY job.
Nick -
I patched this up as well as I can. I got away with a #00, but I added or #000 to avoid more documented problems similar to this. It may be possible yours was #000 and I used a #00 system for the guide.
Check Step 7.
Nick -
Thanks a lot, Nick.
HD => SDD done!
(snail => rocket done :-))
Greets from Vienna,
Peter
Good Job - THX!
Super Anleitung.
Suche auch eine für HP Pavilion 15 cs2535ng
zum RAM und SSD nachrüsten. Vielleicht haste da ja auch was im Programm.
Bestimmt reagards egon
Used this upgraded in 20 mins thanks
The middle screw of the three mentioned in step 7 is different from the rest on my mother’s laptop. It seems to have a raised cross instead of any sort of slot. Does anyone know the correct name for this sort of screw? I’m struggling to find a suitable tool for it.
Thanks,
Sean
It looks as if the raised cross was an issue with my eyesight! A small precision screwdriver from a decent set did the trick.
Drive is replaced and my mother is happy with her much faster laptop. Many thanks for the instructions.
Sean -
The screw seems to be #000 for most. #00 worked for me (15-p263nr) but I marked it as or #000 because it seems to vary.
Nick -
Thanks Nick’
Finding all the screws makes it easy.
Perfect guide.
Thanks.
Merci pour ce retour positif !
Just completed this guide. The laptop i have is slightly different from that depicted in the pictures but the screw guide etc was spot on. SSD now installed. Unnecessarily complicated drive replacement. Why do HP do this? ANyway - excellent work thank you!
Their commercial products are a fixers dream come true, yet the consumer stuff is hit and miss with more stinkers then winners :(.
HP is getting better on the consumer side, but yeah I love how easy my 840 G5 is to repair. That's the freaking benchmark - remove the bottom cover (screws are captive) and you have access to EVERYTHING - motherboard, WLAN/WWAN cards, SSD, RAM and battery*. HP needs to make everything that good.
*Battery uses T8 screws, but that’s the only deviation. If that’s it, still a home run design.
Nick -
Useless guide, a complete waste of time. The keyboard does not detach after removing all screws from the bottom case and there are no instructions about how to remove it. This guide is incomplete and left me frustrated with a half-disassembled computer.
Extremely disappointed in iFixit and this half-assed half-completed half-guide.
Does anyone know where I can find complete instructions how to actually upgrade this computer?
Sorry to hear that this guide did not work for you. It previously worked for others, so it might be helpful if you let us know what went wrong and where you got stuck. If you want to proceed with working on this laptop I suggest you download the HP Maintenance and Service guide from here That way you will have the instructions from the manufacturer. Best of luck to you.
I have made a few changes to Step 8, which is where I identified the most likely source of your error. Since I do not have any concrete information to know for sure what I need to correct, I cannot do much more then identify possible errors. As @oldturkey03 has said, my pry method has largely worked to get these HP laptops open. These days, this method is finally obsolete :-). The new HPs open from the bottom.
Sometimes you still need to run the pick towards one side of the laptop (varies per model), but as long as you got everything on one side, they come open a lot easier today. HP changed a lot of things and put these horrid designs behind them even on the consumer side when RtR took off so people who self-service don't call and complain.
I actually vetted this better than I usually do, just due to the sheer headache these laptops are for the average person to work on.
Nick -
