If you are part of a student group and claim one of my Device pages or Wikis, please respect these guidelines:
- Only change content that needs to be revised. Leave working content alone.
- If the original content is mostly usable, it's best to do a revision with the original content and formatting preserved as much as possible.
- If any information is removed without replacement, verify it is inaccurate if known by others. If there is not enough time to verify it, please understand I did so personally before including it.
- If you find any content you can't verify but think it needs work (Ex: Information on how to use a certain game controller on PC), revise it in its current form.
- If such content is included, only replace the parts that need replacement - do not remove it or change everything. I've personally tested it and know it to work.
- Do not change the following:
- Non-patrol reputation (This is set high enough to prevent problems for me and established users who know what they are doing).
- TOC inclusion (Note: If removed for editing, add it back. This is fine if you need to remove it for the project term).
If these guidelines are respected, I do not have a problem with student edits. I know how I handle it is more unconventional then other pages since I will centralize common problems (and their workarounds if I know what to do) to make the information easier to find.
Regarding major changes beyond normal editing: If you are considering a major change, it's best to err on the side of caution and use the existing formatting and replace that section. In most cases, the content is (generally) laid out in such a way that the only requirements are a rewrite on the section that is being changed. In most cases, there is no need to completely rework how I wrote the original content.
PC Pro Certification
Marchman Technical School Certificate of Completion
- Sunlake High School (Dual enrollment)
- Graduation: 2014
- Marchman Technical Center
- Graduation: 2014
- Linux (I often have a second dedicated Linux computer)
- Intermediate board level repair and data recovery
- Gaming (Limited to older games without excess DLC and microtransactions; PC only since Xbox One and PS4 launch)
Teardowns en Que He Trabajado
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Guías En Que Yo He Contribuido
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Guías que ayudé a traducir
Mis Guías Favoritas
Testing an intermittent GPU problem?Photos of the problem: *Read me* I upgraded this notebook to solid state with an SSD using an M.2 128GB (SATA)->IDE adapter. ...
How long of a screwdriver do I need to open this calculator?This is a “new to me” calculator I just got. The reason I need to open it is there was a prior battery leak , as I have found...
How to enable TRIM in Windows XP?I have an HP nc6000 that never came with a hard drive, which forced me to get creative initially until I could order the corr...
Is this sound bad? *With video and photos*I think the unreadable string of text is from the ink running out but I am including an image just in case. This printer has ...
Is it possible to format a generic drive with Partition 2?I recently got one of these for some of the old games worth having (and original Xbox games). I got it cheap since it's the 4...
How can I test the GPU/motherboard?I have tried replacing the LCD LVDS cable and reinforced the connection to the display for good measure by using more tape th...
Is this LVDS cable look kinked?Photos of the questionable LVDS cable: This laptop was having ocassional LCD glitch issues for a while. Since it has persiste...
How read/write heavy is Windows XP?*If this is too software esque, feel free to delete it. I won’t hold any ill will against the party who does it.* I have an H...
How can I test the screen without disassembly?**NOTE: I have an S6 Active. This is the closest device I can find.** I got this phone fully knowing about this problem but I...
Can I reduce or eliminate the AMOLED burn?I just got a S6 Active I'm done with the SIM unlock on and it's ready to go :-). While the phone works and I have it setup I ...
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Responder a:Why are the ink and paper lights still flashing after changing my inkClassic symptom of the waste ink pad being saturated on the LCD-less Epson printers. This can be reset on many of them since you can usually purchase a reset key for most printers, but not all of them. The key can be purchased here, but can also be found from other places as well. While it can be reset, you MUST modify the printer with an external tank (requires fittings and Super Glue on the waste ink eject hole in this chassis) or buy a new pad. Cleaning it is generally not worth the mess it creates. I’m not worried about the warranty on this since this isn’t covered by Epson as it’s a wear item and this model is 8 years old.
Responder a:Testing an intermittent GPU problem?@jayeff I ended up finding a preexisting baked on fingerprint on the CPU I can't even get rid of with Articlean. I think it's ESD damage :(. Just not worth tracking down if I can replace the top board or I’m in for a nasty surprise because the base GPU/IO board is bad. ALL of my base boards came from bum machines with the same probable ESD evidence so I’m at the end with this one and it’s a full blown parts system. I have a second shot with a unit I vetted because no CPU fingerprints, but it needs a CMOS battery and 1 screw removed from the chassis to make the SSD adapter work since it causes clearance issues.
Responder a:Timing chain replacement, when?Timing chains are usually lifetime parts, but that’s never the case most of the time. MAYBE on a Toyota, but on most of the models that use them it’s usually done within ~100k miles, give or take. That doesn’t always happen, but that’s what commonly happens. Even on a Toyota I’d still check it at 100k to be sure it’s intact so if it has an issue, I can get to it before it breaks. That said, you can tell if it's an interference engine by the engine code. Nissan is usually interference. MR16DDT engines have known timing issues so if you own a 2011-13 Juke it may be a good idea to replace it to know for sure. The other common engine code is HR16DE. Unless you have a Nismo Juke, do not worry about the VR38DETT. Most timing chain engines are interference, so if the chain breaks it’s going to damage the block and pistons, destroying the engine. Unless you want a new motor, the chain needs to be replaced when it begins to fail. Some of them are still non-interference where it just disables the engine, but Nissans ar...
Responder a:Is it possible to have offline fm radio on Nexus 6p?It depends on how it’s implemented, your carrier and phone model if it can be re-enabled. Certain variants of FM Radio compatible phones are known to be software disabled, but keep the hardware (primarily AT&T phones). You can’t fix this on AT&T phones since they’re infamously not open to root and custom ROM installation and go out of their way to actively stop it. There’s a slim chance the AT&T Nexus series will be different, but don’t hold your breath. If you have one of these phones, you need an app like iHeartRadio. I ran into this on my LG G4 H810 (AT&T) since it’s one of those FM Radio phones with the feature disabled. If it’s available and isn’t blocked, these phones typically use headphones or the chassis for signal. Headphones work better for this job, as the chassis isn’t as good for radio use. The way the offline FM radio works creates this problem by design (that, or the carrier is kind of crappy and does it on purpose to get more data money) :(. It isn’t your fault that the actual hardware radio ...
Responder a:20D still worth it?For reference, I am going to refer to this camera in USD ($52.85). Any USD->Sterling Pound translations are done online, so bear in mind my numbers may be off. Since this camera is so old and has been superseded multiple times, they are generally worth very little as you have found out. It doesn’t make them “bad” cameras, but if something happens to the camera it’s generally cheaper to buy another one. If it breaks, do not be surprised if you find out that’s what you are told. The most common issue on Canon DSLRs is the shutter failing (noted by constant clicking with Error 99, if the CF card/adapter and lens contact cleaning/replacement fails) - many of the older entry level cameras are rated for 25k actuations while the newer ones are generally good for 50k before the shutter is *officially* EOL per Canon and you are considering one of the 25k ones. If you take care of the camera, it usually lasts much longer (Canon is conservative), but if it’s been abused it may not even make it to official rated lifetime...
Responder a:Why is my calculator screen disappearing?The cable that connects the display to the board has failed. Unlike the color versions of the TI-84, the display is held onto the calculator with a TAB (Tape automated bonding) connection that cannot be removed non-destructively. You will need a TAB machine, new display (the cable will be damaged upon removal) and a lot of experience to get this right. In addition, like the TI-84 Plus (also B&W), the board is held in with plastic - these need to be broken and fixed with screws in order to secure the board correctly again. Supposedly TI sells refurb calculators for $100 (they may want the bad one back), but it’s usually cheaper to get one from a high school/college student who only used it for 2-4 years (and took care of it and then forgot about it) or a bookstore who sells used TI calculators. The TI-84 Plus (the one I own), the SE (yours) and the CSE (discontinued quickly) are all equally as disposable.
Responder a:Can the modem but upgradedThere isn’t much that you can do with the VCR size Xbox One :-(. The main problem with these is the dedicated Kinect core that was locked out from anything else but a failed accessory. You’re stuck on this one, as it was done at the hardware level (but removed on the S because it’s a hardware revision). The S and X doesn’t have this problem with the CPU. You can usually find the S for $250, give or take. Go for the 1TB even if you don’t need it now. You’ll be thankful when a game comes out that tests the 500GB consoles, if they’re even still sold. I know this isn’t the best advice for this site, but sometimes you can’t avoid having to tell someone this. The WiFi card is non-upgradeable. The S/X cards are completely different. He can try using Ethernet, but it doesn’t free up the Kinect dedicated core on the processor - which is the most severe issue with the original.
Responder a:Blu-ray Disk drive every so slightly grindingIf the drive is grinding, it usually means the hard drive is close to failing. Backup your system to an external drive RIGHT NOW and stop using it until the drive is replaced! That being said, if it’s under warranty (which I highly doubt), you may want to send it to Sony or see if they will mail you a new hard drive. Because there is no specific guide on how to access the drive, refer to the teardown, but use some caution as a key step may not be found in the teardown. Update: Based on the new information provided, I’m not surprised by the failure mode. The Blu-Ray drives have been made unnecessarily complex since the Fat PS3 was released, so a dead one doesn’t surprise me at all at this point, even on the Slim. Follow this guide to open the system and replace the drive or drive cover. In this case, you probably just need the laser cover as the laser assembly still works. However, if you replace the entire drive, you MUST move the drive PCB to the new one or it will not work as the drive is paired. If you use...
Responder a:Trying To Restore Gateway solo 5350The hard drive is probably missing or long dead, along with the battery. These 90’s batteries can be opened easily and rebuilt, but you need a spot welder to do it properly. Unless you have this and need it, I would say leave the dead battery installed to balance the chassis and keep the appearance intact as well as you can. Unless it’s inhibiting the bootup process, leaking or trying to charge failed cells, it isn’t going to hurt anything. If you want to be sure the drive is dead before replacing it, what you can do is try installing an operating system on it; use a Win9X series operating system or Win2K if possible. XP will run like a slow dog on a machine this old, especially with SP3. If it came with XP and you don’t have a choice, just keep that in mind and look at a RAM upgrade of 1-2GB to help the notebook compensate. If it doesn’t support this, max it out as far as it can go. In terms of the hard drive if you have any problems or the drive doesn’t show up, it’s probably dead (if installed). If that’s ...
Responder a:How to enable TRIM in Windows XP?The notebook runs XP 32-bit (Pentium M doesn't support the x64 instruction set). Unlike the Core 2 Duo XP systems, you don't have a choice. Mine has a higher end configuration than most. 1.6GHz Pentium M (1.7 was the original top end processor before the 1.8-2GHz options came later; my 2005 production unit probably never seen it)/ ATI Radeon 9600 (32MB) (a little surprising since it came with such a good CPU)/512MB RAM (original)/Unknown original hard drive (Removed by the old owner)/CD-RW Combo drive. Most of them aren't anywhere near as nicely configured, so that's why I'm looking at retrofitting a SSD in and bypassing the problems that will come with using old hard drives.
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