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Introducción

Utiliza esta guía para remover la batería pegada de tu MacBook Pro con la ayuda del kit de reemplazo de batería de iFixit. El removedor de adhesivo en tu kit disolverá el adhesivo que sujeta la batería, permitiéndote removerla con facilidad. La batería está constituida de seis celdas diferentes, cuatro de las cuales están adheridas a la caja superior.

El removedor de adhesivo de iFixit es altamente inflamable. Realiza este procedimiento en un área muy bien ventilada. No fumes o trabajes cerca de una flama al descubierto durante este procedimiento.

Para minimizar el riesgo de daño, enciende tu MacBook y deja que a la batería se descargue completamente antes de comenzar este procedimiento. Una batería cargada de ion de litio puede crear una incendio peligroso e incontrolable si se perfora accidentalmente. Si tu batería está hinchada, toma precauciones adicionales.

Nota: El solvente utilizado para disolver el adhesivo de batería puede dañar ciertos plásticos, como los recintos de plástico de los altavoces de la MacBook Pro. Ten cuidado al aplicar el solvente.

Si estás utilizando el removedor de adhesivo iFixit de estilo antiguo con una botella y una jeringa (no se vende más), [guía|110109|haz clic aquí para una guía de instrucciones ligeramente modificada].

  1. Quita los 10 tornillos que aseguran la parte inferior de la carcasa a la parte superior:
    • Quita los 10 tornillos que aseguran la parte inferior de la carcasa a la parte superior:

    • Dos tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 2.3 mm

    • Ocho tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 3.0 mm

    • A lo largo de esta reparación, realiza un seguimiento de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que vuelva exactamente de donde proviene para evitar dañar tu dispositivo.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Contestar

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Contestar

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Contestar

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Contestar

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Contestar

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - Contestar

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - Contestar

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - Contestar

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - Contestar

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - Contestar

  2. Introduce tus dedos entre la parte superior y la parte inferior de la carcasa.
    • Introduce tus dedos entre la parte superior y la parte inferior de la carcasa.

    • Tira suavemente de la carcasa inferior para retirarla.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Contestar

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - Contestar

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - Contestar

  3. La carcasa inferior está conectada a la carcasa superior con dos clips de plástico cerca de su centro. Durante el reensamblaje, empuja suavemente hacia abajo el centro de la carcasa inferior para volver a sujetar los dos clips de plástico.
    • La carcasa inferior está conectada a la carcasa superior con dos clips de plástico cerca de su centro.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, empuja suavemente hacia abajo el centro de la carcasa inferior para volver a sujetar los dos clips de plástico.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Contestar

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Contestar

  4. Si es necesario, remueve la cubierta de plástico adherida a la placa de contacto de la batería.
    • Si es necesario, remueve la cubierta de plástico adherida a la placa de contacto de la batería.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - Contestar

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - Contestar

  5. Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de batería directamente de su enchufe en la placa lógica. Asegúrate de levantar solo en el conector o puedes arriesgarte a dañar la placa lógica permanentemente.
    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de batería directamente de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de levantar solo en el conector o puedes arriesgarte a dañar la placa lógica permanentemente.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Contestar

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Contestar

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Contestar

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - Contestar

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - Contestar

  6. Pliega el conector de la batería hacía arriba y sácalo del medio para prevenir contacto accidental con su enchufe durante la reparación.
    • Pliega el conector de la batería hacía arriba y sácalo del medio para prevenir contacto accidental con su enchufe durante la reparación.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Contestar

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Contestar

  7. Remueve los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 2.1 mm que sujetan el extremo de la  placa lógica del soporte del cable de placa de E/S.
    • Remueve los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 2.1 mm que sujetan el extremo de la placa lógica del soporte del cable de placa de E/S.

    At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

    Martin Gray - Contestar

    This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

    barak - Contestar

    After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

    driesverfaillie - Contestar

    While it may not be necessary to remove the left and right speakers, doing so will make it much easier to get at (and under) the end batteries and their adhesive pads. Also, by removing the speakers, you also get them out of harm’s way while you wrestle with loosening the batteries’ adhesives.

    I recommend removing the speakers and their connectors as described in the iFixit instructions.

    doubleclutch - Contestar

    I did this step when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” so it would be easier to access the speaker connector

    Evan Shulman - Contestar

    I agree that moving the speakers out of the way makes battery removal easier but I didn’t disconnect the right speaker, just removed the screws and folded it back out of the way. I disconnected and removed the left speaker as instructed below.

    Jim Turney - Contestar

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - Contestar

    I am not sure why I was even bothering with touching the speakers at all. Since April I have done at least another dozen 13” battery replacements. You simply do not need to touch the speakers for any reason, and, in fact, touching introduces unnecessary risk.

    This whole procedure of replacing the battery may easily be done in about 20 minutes.

    davelarose - Contestar

  8. Agarra el soporte del cable de placa de E/S con un par de pincitas y remuévelo de tu MacBook.
    • Agarra el soporte del cable de placa de E/S con un par de pincitas y remuévelo de tu MacBook.

    Totally unnecessary step…

    davelarose - Contestar

  9. Usa el extremo plano del spudger para sacar el conector de placa de E/S directamente de su enchufe en la placa lógica. Ten cuidado de sacarlo del cable de placa de E/S y no del enchufe porque corres el riesgo de dañar tu placa lógica.
    • Usa el extremo plano del spudger para sacar el conector de placa de E/S directamente de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Ten cuidado de sacarlo del cable de placa de E/S y no del enchufe porque corres el riesgo de dañar tu placa lógica.

    This step is not required.

    davelarose - Contestar

  10. Levanta el extremo de la placa lógica del cable de placa de E/S para plegarlo y sacarlo del medio. Para evitar dañar el cable, dobla solo en el pliegue del extremo del cable de placa de E/S.
    • Levanta el extremo de la placa lógica del cable de placa de E/S para plegarlo y sacarlo del medio.

    • Para evitar dañar el cable, dobla solo en el pliegue del extremo del cable de placa de E/S.

    I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

    lamajr - Contestar

    What is the strip sticking out from behind the battery at the top right middle?? How do I reconnect that?? I think that's why my battery isn't working. I was going to get to the Trac pad until I realized how big a job it is. Just want to fix this connection and put it back the way it was :(

    numbers - Contestar

    Besser: Das Kabel kann leicht an beiden Enden gelöst und dann herausgenommen werden. Dann ist es nicht im Weg.

    Karsten Franke - Contestar

    Don’t perform this step. I have zero idea why it is in this guide…

    davelarose - Contestar

  11. Con cuidado coloca la punta del spudger bajo el cable del altavoz derecho cerca del conector y levántalo de su enchufe en la placa lógica. Con cuidado coloca la punta del spudger bajo el cable del altavoz derecho cerca del conector y levántalo de su enchufe en la placa lógica.
    • Con cuidado coloca la punta del spudger bajo el cable del altavoz derecho cerca del conector y levántalo de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

    barak - Contestar

    WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

    jiclark - Contestar

    Put the spudger under the very centre where you see the cutout and be gentle !! It does in fact pry upward the wire itself is very fragile.

    Mmm ttt - Contestar

    I used the flat end of the spudger and tried to match the width of the connector, while applying gentle upward pressure to pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - Contestar

    The key to accomplishing this step easily and without danger to the socket… is to follow the instruction (and the picture) PRECISELY by placing the spudger flat end under the CABLE (not the connector). Lifting the CABLE easily removes the connector from the socket without getting anywhere near the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - Contestar

    Seconding barak’s comment, no need to disconnect the speaker cables, keep them attached and just swing the brackets out of the way.

    Julio Garcia - Contestar

    Barak is absolutely correct.

    DO NOT DO THIS STEP…

    davelarose - Contestar

  12. Con cuidado quita el cable del altavoz derecho de la caja superior. Con cuidado quita el cable del altavoz derecho de la caja superior. Con cuidado quita el cable del altavoz derecho de la caja superior.
    • Con cuidado quita el cable del altavoz derecho de la caja superior.

    Why? Why does this step exist?

    Fiddling with these small cables is a poor idea if not required…

    davelarose - Contestar

  13. Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el altavoz derecho de la caja superior:
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el altavoz derecho de la caja superior:

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5.7 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 6.5 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 3.8 mm

    Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - Contestar

    No. Just no! Another unneeded step…

    davelarose - Contestar

  14. Levanta el altavoz derecho del extremo de cable y sácalo de la caja. Levanta el altavoz derecho del extremo de cable y sácalo de la caja. Levanta el altavoz derecho del extremo de cable y sácalo de la caja.
    • Levanta el altavoz derecho del extremo de cable y sácalo de la caja.

    There may be some adhesive securing the cable - work it loose with a spudger before removal.

    Bob Kemp - Contestar

    Very clear step by step tutorial as usual. I removed both of my MBP 2013 speakers and it was just fine. My laptop sounds like the first day now (with genuine used speakers) Thanks?

    pticrounchi@orange.fr - Contestar

    Unless you are replacing the speakers, DO NOT do this step, you are risking damage without reason…

    davelarose - Contestar

  15. Con cuidado coloca la punta del spudger bajo el cable del altavoz izquierdo cerca del conector y levántalo de su enchufe en la placa lógica. Con cuidado coloca la punta del spudger bajo el cable del altavoz izquierdo cerca del conector y levántalo de su enchufe en la placa lógica.
    • Con cuidado coloca la punta del spudger bajo el cable del altavoz izquierdo cerca del conector y levántalo de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - Contestar

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - Contestar

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    lamajr - Contestar

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - Contestar

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter - Contestar

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee - Contestar

    Ugh. I agree with Barak; why is touching the speakers in these guides? On both the 13” and 15” you can easily replace the batteries WITHOUT even vaguely touching the batteries…

    davelarose - Contestar

  16. Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el altavoz izquierdo de la caja superior:
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el altavoz izquierdo de la caja superior:

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5.7 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 6.5 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 3.8 mm

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - Contestar

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder - Contestar

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij - Contestar

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

    Where can I replace these screws?

    One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    kate Taverna - Contestar

    Once again.

    NO NEED NO NEED NO NEED

    davelarose - Contestar

  17. Levanta la esquina del altavoz izquierdo y deslízalo fuera de la batería para removerlo de la caja superior. Ten cuidado de no enganchar el cable del altavoz en el orificio del tornillo al lado de la caja. Ten cuidado de no enganchar el cable del altavoz en el orificio del tornillo al lado de la caja.
    • Levanta la esquina del altavoz izquierdo y deslízalo fuera de la batería para removerlo de la caja superior.

    • Ten cuidado de no enganchar el cable del altavoz en el orificio del tornillo al lado de la caja.

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G - Contestar

    If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - 44. So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something?

    Brett Levine - Contestar

    after step 9 what??? i cannot see the next steps….

    kotakidisoklp - Contestar

    Réparation faite en moins de 5 minutes chrono (j’avais lu et relu le tuto et l’avais répété autant de fois “dans ma tête” le temps de la réception du haut parleur endommagé). Réparation très facile, faite en moins de 10 minutes tout compris. Vraiment bravo et merci !

    Eric - Contestar

    Why does this step exist?

    Unneeded…

    davelarose - Contestar

  18. Remueve los cinco tornillos Torx T5 de 3.7 mm que sujetan la batería a la caja superior.
    • Remueve los cinco tornillos Torx T5 de 3.7 mm que sujetan la batería a la caja superior.

    • Tu propia unidad puede que solo tenga un tornillo sujetando la placa del circuito de la batería al marco.

    In my macbook pro retina, these are some kind of plastic screws. I cannot remove them.

    adriendavernas - Contestar

    The plastic screws just need to be pulled out with a spudger/finger and you're good to go. I have the same model, there's also a screw on the power board not mentioned in this guide, takes a T5 screwdriver/bit

    alex - Contestar

    Question - when putting the new battery back into the case, do we need to remove old glue/add new glue, use no glue at all, or place the battery in and then reheat to melt the old glue so that it will adhere to the new battery? Thanks!

    chal740 - Contestar

    My adhesive didn't have enough tack to hold the battery in. I just reassembled without it and can't hear the batteries moving, but I have the rubber grommets and not screws as MarkB mentioned. Fo future repairers, I'd recommend buying some nonpermanent two sided tape just so you have the option to fasten it in.

    Vince Cipriani -

    I wish they would find another way of securing the battery, this is ridiculous.

    brian whittle - Contestar

    On each 'corner' of the frame that surrounds the two centre batteries, rather than 'plastic screws' mentioned by adriendavernas there are 'domed' rubber grommets. These presumably rest against the inside of the bottom cover when it is fitted thus supporting the batteries. As there were no screws underneath in these 4 positions, there is no need to remove these grommets. Agree with alex re: removing the extra T5 screw on the power board.

    MarkB - Contestar

    After destroying the adhesive which secures the batteries (bad technique or lack of patience in my effort) what is recommended to secure the batteries when reassembling?

    maxB - Contestar

    The iFixit Battery had adhesive pre-applied. plenty of 3M Tissue Tape

    Rhys Goode -

    I only had the single far right screw to remove.

    barak - Contestar

    My replacement A1582 battery actually had holes for the screws, though my original A1582 battery only had the 'domed' rubber grommets. Anyways, putting in the OEM A1582 battery without anything in the holes worked ok.

    Srini Seetharaman - Contestar

    I wanted to put the rubber grommets on the new battery, so I used tweezers to get them back through the holes on the new battery

    Dallin Christensen - Contestar

    My battery replacement came with 4 rubber grommets pre-installed, so perhaps this is no longer necessary

    hamiltont -

    Can somebody tell me what kind of screws I would need to secure the new battery? I would like to put screws into the screwholes left open by those rubber grommets.

    thekryz - Contestar

    3,7 mm is the lengh I gues. How thick are they?

    Wanna know how I can search for replacement screws cause I lost the originales.

    Chris Shine - Contestar

    My model (late 2013 MacBook Pro Retina), did not have any screws in these locations. They were rubber “feet” in the same locations. They are not attached in any way to the computer. They simply lift up with the plastic battery frame. My replacement batter kit came with the plastic frame - and these rubber “feet” - already installed. No need to save the old ones.

    Ralph Begleiter - Contestar

    I echo the others who found that there was only one screw (on the upper right). The remainder were rubber-like “feet”. I removed them, but they don’t seem to fasten anything, so this wasn’t necessary. As Ralph pointed out, the ifixit replacement battery comes with new “feet” installed.

    ellamama - Contestar

    Mine only had the far right screw. Since the new battery came with another batch of ridiculous adhesive I didn’t bother fretting about not having the rest of the screws

    Tony Le - Contestar

    some models have one screw on the upper right corner of the battery cells (battery circuit board), the rest are rubber feet that doesn’t hold anything. no need to replace them if your replacement battery doesn’t come with them.

    Houmem ZAGHDOUDI - Contestar

  19. El removedor líquido de adhesivo que viene en tu kit puede afectar la capa antireflectante en la pantalla de tu MacBook Pro.
    • El removedor líquido de adhesivo que viene en tu kit puede afectar la capa antireflectante en la pantalla de tu MacBook Pro.

    • Para proteger tu pantalla, coloca una hoja de folio de aluminio entre la pantalla y el teclado y déjalo ahí mientras trabajas.

  20. Si tienes un kit de batería iFixit con removedor líquido de adhesivo, es hora de prepararlo. Alternativamente, si estás utilizando el método iOpener caliente, salta los siguientes tres pasos.
    • Si tienes un kit de batería iFixit con removedor líquido de adhesivo, es hora de prepararlo.

    • Alternativamente, si estás utilizando el método iOpener caliente, salta los siguientes tres pasos.

    • El removedor de adhesivo de iFixit contiene acetona, un irritante leve de la piel y ojos.

    • Usa protección para ojos al manejar y aplicar el removedor de adhesivo. (La protección para ojos está incluida en tu kit)

    • No uses lentes de contacto sin protección de ojos.

    • Los guantes protectores están también incluidos en tu kit. Si te preocupa la irritación de la piel, ponte los guantes ahora.

  21. Saca el tapón de goma de tu botella de removedor de adhesivo. Tuerce para aflojar y remover la tapa antes de cortar la punta del aplicador. Esto quita el sello de la botella y permite que la presión se iguale antes de cortar la punta del aplicador. Si te saltas este paso, el removedor de adhesivo saldrá de forma inesperada cuando se corte la punta.
    • Saca el tapón de goma de tu botella de removedor de adhesivo.

    • Tuerce para aflojar y remover la tapa antes de cortar la punta del aplicador.

    • Esto quita el sello de la botella y permite que la presión se iguale antes de cortar la punta del aplicador. Si te saltas este paso, el removedor de adhesivo saldrá de forma inesperada cuando se corte la punta.

    • Utiliza una tijera para cortar la punta sellada del aplicador.

    • Cortar cerca de la punta angosta te dará control así puedes aplicar el removedor de adhesivo en pequeñas cantidades.

    • Tuerce y cierra la tapa de forma segura antes de proceder.

    Air can tilted upside down to freeze the adhesive works very well also. I just used this method today to pull a battery.

    aadeshina - Contestar

    @aadeshina - That’s an excellent suggestion. I took your advice, and tried it with a can of MG Chemicals “403C Super Cold Spray”, which I had on hand for other electronics work. It worked very well — it froze the adhesive to the point where it was quite easy to work the plastic iFixit cards under the batteries, and pry them loose.

    I like this freeze technique much better than the volatile, flammable, risky solvent approach for removing the batteries. I did however find the solvent useful for softening and removing the residual adhesive remaining in the case after the old batteries were removed.

    There are many brands of aerosol freeze sprays available on Amazon, DigiKey, Mouser, etc.

    doubleclutch - Contestar

    As above, Another solution to remove the batteries, (Maybe not environmentally friendly): I removed the Logic board and related components to protect them and took a can of compressed air (the kind you buy at office stores for cleaning printers and such) Invert it and use the included straw to direct the propellant (which is extremely cold under the batteries. The adhesive holding the batteries in becomes brittle and u can just pop them out with medium force using a wide putty knife. Took me 3 min to do.

    JVerdonck - Contestar

    Before proceeding with the solvent, I suggest considering using dental floss to slice through the old adhesive. (See next step 22 below for more details.) Because the solvent is so dangerous (flammable and caustic), I felt the “dry” use of floss would be better. I assumed that I could revert to the solvent if necessary after trying the floss.

    Ralph Begleiter - Contestar

  22. Aplica una pequeña cantidad de removedor de adhesivo de forma pareja bajo el borde de la celda de batería que se encuentra en el extremo derecho.
    • Aplica una pequeña cantidad de removedor de adhesivo de forma pareja bajo el borde de la celda de batería que se encuentra en el extremo derecho.

    • No necesitas usar mucho. La pequeña botella contiene más del doble de cantidad de solvente necesario para remover todas las celdas de batería.

    • Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de líquido de adhesivo penetre por debajo de la celda de batería antes de proceder con el próximo paso.

    • No aplica más de 1 ml del removedor de adhesivo a la vez. Usar demasiado removedor puede hacer que el removedor llegue a la parte trasera de tu teclado y dañarlo potencialmente.

    I managed to remove the battery without the adhesive by using the thread technique. More info in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... . Just make sure you have someone to help you and hold the laptop in place for you.

    driesverfaillie - Contestar

    Thank you very much! This is an absolute win technique

    Денис Медведев -

    I agree that this worked much better. A few suggestions for others:

    - one type of thread that works very well is fishing line. While you can use monofilament (the clear plastic), if you can get the braided fishing line you will find it is extremely thin and super strong and works very well for this

    - string pulled tightly can cut more than just the adhesive, so be careful what you allow the string to rub against while you are pulling it. I can easily cut into another cable or the battery

    - I found that gloves (not latex, big gardening or construction gloves) helped me use string without needing to go “ow” every few seconds from your hand hurting. I have some gloves with nice grip and good hand protection, I would get the string positioned, put on the gloves, and start pulling. It worked fantastically

    I was able to remove the battery easily with the string method, and i did not remove the speakers to do so. However, when I went to seat the new battery I chose to remove the speakers to make it easier to place

    hamiltont -

    Thanks for the awesome suggestion!

    Tony Le -

    For easier removal I used a combination of heat from a hot water bottle and solvent.

    ip_leyland - Contestar

    I used waxed dental floss (not sure whether the ‘waxed’ is important), which worked like a charm. I cuts through the tape much easier than seen in the linked YouTube video linked above. Each battery cell was loosened within 5-10 seconds. It worked amazingly well, and taking out the old batteries proved to be no challenge at all.

    Gerd - Contestar

    +1 for dental floss - used it too and managed to cut without any effort.

    JX Low -

    Just finished a fix using floss to remove the battery. It works really well.

    pedroparracho -

    Because I preferred to avoid using the flammable adhesive remover, I tried using the dental floss method. I assumed I could always revert to adhesive remover if the floss didn’t work. The dental floss method worked beautifully. I used a slow, methodical “sawing” motion with the floss, rather than brute force. Although it took some strength, it worked well, and I didn’t need to use the remover.

    Rather than using the plastic cards (though I think they would have worked fine), I used a plastic putty knife (standard, available in any hardware or paint store); this gave me a sturdy handle with which to grip and maneuver the blade. This, too, worked well.

    Ralph Begleiter - Contestar

    I used the threading technique as well. I had a spool of pretty tough sewing thread. But it kept breaking, so I tripled it up. Still kept breaking but eventually got through it.

    For the 2 middle cells I had to thread the thread behind the plastic frame thing and both cells, but passed the thread in between the side of the frame and the cell. This was really tough and I broke the thread a few times.

    After I was finished I just cleaned everything up with acetone (aka. the adhesive remove/nail polish).

    Tony Le - Contestar

    This is the hardest part of the whole process, if you don’t have any of ifixit tools you can use a hair dryer. Apply heat on the cell (make sur you don’t apply too much heat), flip the laptop apply heat for 20 to 30s on the aluminum side just near the trackpad( depending on which cell you wanna pry open) and use a credit cart gently. this will do.

    Houmem ZAGHDOUDI - Contestar

    I used dental floss, but fishing line might be better. The floss kept breaking. I wound the floss around the special screwdrivers which helped with pulling it through. I used Goof Off to remove solvent AFTER I got the batteries out. It worked well. You can get Goof Off at any hardware type store.

    Thirtyeyes - Contestar

  23. Si no tienes removedor líquido de adhesivo, usarás un iOpener caliente y ablanda una sección del adhesivo que sujeta la batería a la caja trasera, y luego levanta en ese punto. Usa el iOpener caliente para cubrir la mitad de las dos celdas baterías en el extremo derecho.
    • Si no tienes removedor líquido de adhesivo, usarás un iOpener caliente y ablanda una sección del adhesivo que sujeta la batería a la caja trasera, y luego levanta en ese punto.

    • Usa el iOpener caliente para cubrir la mitad de las dos celdas baterías en el extremo derecho.

    • Luego de alrededor de un minuto, vuelve a calentar el iOpener y muévelo para que cubra la otra mitad de las dos celdas de baterías en el extremo derecho.

    I did not have an iOpener. I did not fancy using a heat gun on the batteries either so I used two flat metal spudgers to prise them off the body of the mac book. I hit the spudgers with a small hammer.

    Alex Birkett - Contestar

    I used a sock filled with rice and it worked exactly the same. Microwaved it for 2 minutes (hot enough to barely hold) and set it on the batteries as above for 2 minutes.

    Then I reheated it for a minute and opened up the laptop, and slide my DYI iOpener under so it was directly under the batteries (across the trackpad portion of the laptop). This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. I ended up letting the screen hang over the edge of the table while I pried the batteries out.

    barak - Contestar

    This heating with the iOpener took me forever. I tried my fair share of heating followed by nudging slowly with a credit card 1 mm at a time. Finally pried it off after 30 mins.

    Srini Seetharaman - Contestar

    I used a hot water bottle (for the body). Realized the one with the cloth cover was not doing anything, but had another plastic one. Poured boiling water in, sealed, and did 2-min at a time. A old airline loyalty card worked. Don’t use a credit card as it may deteriorate.

    Daniel - Contestar

  24. Empuja una tarjeta de plástico entre la celda de la batería del extremo derecho y la caja superior, cortando el adhesivo entre los dos. Durante este procedimiento, ten cuidado de no dañar cualquiera de las celdas de la batería con tus herramientas. Una batería de ion de litio podría perder sustancias químicas y/o prenderse fuego. Usa solamente herramientas de plástico para hacer palanca.
    • Empuja una tarjeta de plástico entre la celda de la batería del extremo derecho y la caja superior, cortando el adhesivo entre los dos.

    • Durante este procedimiento, ten cuidado de no dañar cualquiera de las celdas de la batería con tus herramientas. Una batería de ion de litio podría perder sustancias químicas y/o prenderse fuego. Usa solamente herramientas de plástico para hacer palanca.

    • Cuando utilices el método de iOpener caliente, si encuentras resistencia significativa para hacer palanca deténte y usa el iOpener para volver a calentar la sección en la que estás trabajando.

    In addition to using the wheat bag/iOpener to loosen the batteries, I found it useful each time I inserted the plastic card under the batteries to give the card a 'wipe' with isopropyl alcohol to ensure that it didn't stick to the adhesive holding the batteries down. it also presumably eases the glue away from the batteries somewhat.

    MarkB - Contestar

    Do the same tools and steps work on a MacBook Pro 15" late 2015 model?

    Sean - Contestar

    Heat can be dangerous to Li-Ion batteries, no???

    Alex - Contestar

    Excessive heat can be dangerous, but the iOpener is designed to never get hot enough to cause permanent damage. Using a heat gun or hot plate could be dangerous, but the iOpener method is the safest one we know of =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found it helpful to use some dental floss to help loosen each cell and then pry the rest off with the card

    Dallin Christensen - Contestar

    Is there a substitute for the plastic cards? have all the other supplies I need. Would like to avoid ordering the whole kit for those cards?

    martha - Contestar

    A couple old credit cards should work fine.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My successful alternative to the plastic cards was to use a plastic putty knife, an inexpensive purchase from any pint or hardware store. This tool gave me a strong, grippable handle with which to carefully “work” the plastic blade under the battery cells.

    Ralph Begleiter - Contestar

    I have found that different techniques are needed for different parts of the job. The outermost two batteries on both sides can be removed by softening the adhesive as shown with the fluid. The batteries are in a shallow dish so there is less chance of the fluid running everywhere. Just apply sparingly. As Christopher Girke suggested, the middle two are best removed by applying the solvent to the edge of the card. Multiple applications are necessary but this avoids the fluid getting where it should not go. Also it is easier to push in from the sides, not the front as shown in the photo to avoid a lip on the underside of the trackpad.

    johnponter - Contestar

  25. Usa la tarjeta de plástico para levantar la celda de batería del extremo derecho de la caja trasera. Usa la tarjeta de plástico para levantar la celda de batería del extremo derecho de la caja trasera.
    • Usa la tarjeta de plástico para levantar la celda de batería del extremo derecho de la caja trasera.

  26. Repite este procedimiento con la celda de batería adyacente: Aplica una cantidad pequeña (alrededor de 1 ml) de removedor líquido de adhesivo debajo de la celda de batería, y espera 2-3 minutos para que penetre y ablande el adhesivo. Alternativamente, vuelve a calentar esta sección con su iOpener si es necesario.
    • Repite este procedimiento con la celda de batería adyacente:

    • Aplica una cantidad pequeña (alrededor de 1 ml) de removedor líquido de adhesivo debajo de la celda de batería, y espera 2-3 minutos para que penetre y ablande el adhesivo.

    • Alternativamente, vuelve a calentar esta sección con su iOpener si es necesario.

    • Empuja una tarjeta de plástico alrededor de una pulgada entre la celda de batería y la caja superior y lentamente levanta la celda para separarla de todo el adhesivo.

  27. Deja temporalmente tu tarjeta de plástico debajo de las dos celdas de baterías del extremo derecho para prevenir que se vuelvan a adherir a la caja superior. Si estás utilizando un iOpener, vuelve a calentar y aplicarlo, esta vez en las celdas de baterías del extremo izquierdo. Nuevamente, deja el iOpener en cada posición durante un minuto, volviendo a calentar entremedio, para calentar cada mitad de las celdas de batería del extremo izquierdo.
    • Deja temporalmente tu tarjeta de plástico debajo de las dos celdas de baterías del extremo derecho para prevenir que se vuelvan a adherir a la caja superior.

    • Si estás utilizando un iOpener, vuelve a calentar y aplicarlo, esta vez en las celdas de baterías del extremo izquierdo.

    • Nuevamente, deja el iOpener en cada posición durante un minuto, volviendo a calentar entremedio, para calentar cada mitad de las celdas de batería del extremo izquierdo.

  28. Repite el procedimiento de arriba para separar las dos celdas de batería del extremo izquierdo de la caja superior. Recuerda de aplicar una pequeña cantidad de removedor líquido de adhesivo y espera 2-3 minutos para que penetre y ablande el adhesivo. Usa una segunda tarjeta de plástico para separar las dos celdas de batería del extremo izquierdo de la caja superior.
    • Repite el procedimiento de arriba para separar las dos celdas de batería del extremo izquierdo de la caja superior.

    • Recuerda de aplicar una pequeña cantidad de removedor líquido de adhesivo y espera 2-3 minutos para que penetre y ablande el adhesivo.

    • Usa una segunda tarjeta de plástico para separar las dos celdas de batería del extremo izquierdo de la caja superior.

  29. Deja la segunda tarjeta en la esquina entre las dos celdas de baterías izquierdas.
    • Deja la segunda tarjeta en la esquina entre las dos celdas de baterías izquierdas.

    • En los siguientes pasos, puedes usar una tercera tarjeta o la tarjeta de la esquina derecha. El adhesivo de la esquina derecha deberá estar suficientemente seco o frío para que las celdas puedan ser fácilmente levantadas otra vez cuando sea necesario.

  30. Para separar el adhesivo que sujeta la dos baterías finales del medio, aplica otro milímetro de removedor líquido de adhesivo (o tu iOpener) en cada celda. Aplica el removedor de adhesivo con moderación ya que el trackpad se encuentra debajo de este área de la batería.
    • Para separar el adhesivo que sujeta la dos baterías finales del medio, aplica otro milímetro de removedor líquido de adhesivo (o tu iOpener) en cada celda.

    • Aplica el removedor de adhesivo con moderación ya que el trackpad se encuentra debajo de este área de la batería.

    • Podría ayudar si elevas un lado de tu MacBook Pro unas pulgadas para que el removedor de adhesivo fluya en la dirección correcta, por debajo de las celdas de batería. Puedes usar un libro robusto o bloque de espuma para apoyar un lado de tu MacBook Pro mientras trabajas.

    • Introduce la tarjeta alrededor de una pulgada entre la celda de batería del centro izquierdo y la caja superior, separando el adhesivo entre la celda y la caja.

    My laptop had a strip over these center batteries. I had to remove that before getting the center batteries off.

    Srini Seetharaman - Contestar

    My plastic cards were hitting a black trackpad backing. I thought this was the adhesive not coming off. I also didn’t want to harm the battery and didn’t bring the card up enough.

    I found out by going through one of the side batteries, but could have just raised the tip of the card very slightly.

    Cameron Malek - Contestar

    I recommend you do not use the liquid adhesive remover for the middle battery pods. These do not rest nicely in their own “tray” like the two parts on the left and right. Consequently, it is very easy to apply too much liquid, allowing the excess to run into your trackpad and logic board. Even though the liquid dries quickly, it does leave behind a little residue. The result from my experience was a slightly faulty connection for my screen, causing random pixel flickers in dark spaces on my screen. Use the floss method found elsewhere online. It is much more difficult to get out but does not risk damaging your computer.

    Andrew Jensen - Contestar

    To remove the center batteries carefully, you can add some of the liquid on the tip of the remover card. Put the card at the adhesive and simply wait. It works fine and you wont use too much liquid!

    Christopher Girke - Contestar

    I bent the silver plate between the trackpad and the middle battery cells while removing the middle cells, resulting in a sunken trackpad when looking from top. Clicking the trackpad also does not work anymore.

    Tamás Kende - Contestar

    Be careful here when you slide any tool under the central cells to pry them open, you could slide it under a sliver plate covering the trackpad electronics, maker sure that your tool is really sliding between the cells and this silver plate, I almost torn this apart, luckily id did not damage the trackpad, dome people reported that it did really damage the trackpad.

    Houmem ZAGHDOUDI - Contestar

    1. flatten the battery before you begin the dismantling

    2. remove the 4 side cells completely by cutting the cables with sharp pliers

    3. Apply adhesive remover around the middle batteries, one side at a time

    4. Use the cards to cut the adhesive from around one side at a time , adding more adhesive remover . Do NOT lift the batteries

    5. profit

    Middle batteries have black glue strips strong as welding. lifting the batteries without dissolving these will damage the touch pad back plate it's a thin metal plate

    Charm Abeywardana - Contestar

    I used the floss method without solvent. It came apart relatively easily.

    Thirtyeyes - Contestar

  31. Retira la tarjeta y vuelve a introducirla una pulgada entre la celda de batería del centro derecho y la caja superior, separando el adhesivo entre la celda y la caja. Retira la tarjeta y vuelve a introducirla una pulgada entre la celda de batería del centro derecho y la caja superior, separando el adhesivo entre la celda y la caja.
    • Retira la tarjeta y vuelve a introducirla una pulgada entre la celda de batería del centro derecho y la caja superior, separando el adhesivo entre la celda y la caja.

  32. En este punto, las celdas externas deberían estar libres y podrías encontrar resistencia en las dos celdas del centro. Si esto no es el caso, vuelve hacia atrás y afloja completamente las cuatros celdas más externas de la caja superior. Levanta las dos celdas del centro para separar el último adhesivo y sacar la batería del dispositivo.
    • En este punto, las celdas externas deberían estar libres y podrías encontrar resistencia en las dos celdas del centro. Si esto no es el caso, vuelve hacia atrás y afloja completamente las cuatros celdas más externas de la caja superior.

    • Levanta las dos celdas del centro para separar el último adhesivo y sacar la batería del dispositivo.

    I found that gentle application from a heat gun works well enough to soften the adhesive. Use a plastic card to help as you go. Use caution not to over heat anything.

    John Lerefebvre - Contestar

    Just like the recommended adhesive remover method, the dental floss method also left some strips of dry adhesive inside the laptop. I used the flat spudger to peel it off. Have patience; it will peel.

    Ralph Begleiter - Contestar

    I used GooGone adhesive remover (non-flammable, non-toxic) to loosen remaining adhesive. It worked well, applied with a paper towel. It took several applications to thoroughly clean the computer case. Allow it to dry thoroughly before adhering the replacement battery.

    Ralph Begleiter - Contestar

  33. Remueve la batería. Antes de instalar una batería nueva, remueve todo el adhesivo viejo de la caja de la MacBook Pro.
    • Remueve la batería.

    • Antes de instalar una batería nueva, remueve todo el adhesivo viejo de la caja de la MacBook Pro.

    • Con un poco de suerte, puedes lentamente levantar cada tira de adhesivo con tus dedos.

    • De lo contrario, empapa cada sección de adhesivo con un poco de removedor de adhesivo durante 2-3 minutos y luego raspa y sácalo con un pico de apertura o cualquiera de las herramientas en tu kit. Esto podría ser mucho trabajo, así que ten paciencia.

    • Limpia cualquier resto de removedor de adhesivo y dale a tu MacBook Pro durante unos pocos minutos para que se seque al aire.

    • La batería de reemplazo incluida en tu kit de iFixit viene con un adhesivo pre-instalado. Prueba el ajuste y la alineación de la batería con cuidado antes de quitar la capa que cubre el adhesivo y luego presiona cada celda firmemente en su lugar. Si hay capas y recubrimientos adicionales que no estaban en la batería original, remuévelos ahora.

    • Calibra tu batería nueva. Cárgala hasta 100% y luego sigue cargándola durante al menos 2 horas más. Luego, desenchúfala y úsala normalmente para drenar la batería. Cuando veas la advertencia de batería baja, guarda tu trabajo y mantén tu laptop encendida hasta que se duerma. Espera al menos 5 horas, luego cárgala de forma ininterrumpida hasta 100%.

    • Si notas alguna conducta o problema inusual luego de instalar tu batería nueva, podrías necesitar restablecer el SMC de tu MacBook Pro.

    RECOMMENDATION: The battery connector and associated screw are critical when considering battery alignment. Also don’t forget the left and right speaker assemblies when aligning the two small outer cells. I didn’t consider these and had issues.

    Also, keep the transparent top film on the battery to keep the cells aligned with respect to each other, and always support all the cells if handling upside down.

    Cameron Malek - Contestar

    I agree, if you don’t reinstall the speaker assemblies before installing the battery, they may be impossible to put back in after the battery has adhered

    Dallin Christensen -

    Anyone reconcile the different instructions for batter calibration? Inside battery package is a business card that says drain below 10% then charge uninterrupted to 100%. That is completely different then above: “Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.”

    ryan - Contestar

    The longer calibration method detailed in the guide is correct. I believe the printed cards are due for an update.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My replacement battery came with a clear plastic protective cover stuck across the top. This protective cover helps keep the four battery cells and their frame aligned properly for fitting into the space. Remove the protective cover (it peels off easily), however, before closing up your computer.

    I agree that test-mounting the new battery, including re-attaching both speakers, BEFORE removing the adhesive covers, is essential for perfect alignment of the batteries… and especially important for alignment of the battery connector and its solo screw.

    Ralph Begleiter - Contestar

    Pay attention to how the new battery sits in place before removing the adhesive strips. Although I did this, I didn’t notice that the rubber “feet” on the plastic frame around the middle batteries were very slightly out of alignment. The result was that the case could not be closed tight enough for the screws to fasten properly seal the case. It took a lot of poking around and attention to minor detail in order to get the case to fasten back in place.

    ellamama - Contestar

    I followed the tutorial and everything went pretty smooth, started the calibration and got to the step of recharging after waiting 5 hours and my mac wont turn on. the magsafe charger is glowing red/orange but the mac itself is showing no signs of power or charging. Any tips? thanks in advance

    Ronald Francis - Contestar

    Removing the adhesive strips of the original battery was relatively easy - compared to removing the strips of the iFixit battery… what took me 1.5 hours. All because the first battery delivered was defective so I had to repeat the replacement. Thanks for the free and quick replacement battery - fair attitude, but that did not saved my time…

    Andras - Contestar

    Always amazing when it all works at the end. Combined the battery repair with the fan replacement. Looks like the battery I got from the Bay is an OEM from SMC. All went well. Now I just need to remove the display gate anti-glare with some Listerine or the W5 towelettes from LIDL (if in Europe) and the machine is like new. ;-) Thanks fixit and everyone who contributed and shared their comments.

    Daniel - Contestar

    If you have only 1 screw and the 4 rubber grommets, be care about the plastic trim piece on the battery be sure it can be seated properly before removing the adhesive. When you do permanently seat the battery be sure the two bottom holes (where the grommets or screws should be) are properly within the case or you won’t be able to seal the back. I had a bit of an issue but it was easily solved by forcing the plastic opening piece into the case with a screw driver tip. I left the battery without the 4 rubber grommets as they seemed impossible to seat into the holes on the plastic piece of the battery. So far, so good.

    Thirtyeyes - Contestar

Conclusión

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Sam Goldheart

Miembro Desde 18/10/12

439,863 Reputación

547 Guías creadas

Equipo

iFixit Miembro de iFixit

Community

138 Miembros

16,474 Guías creadas

Great thanks to the author for this flawless guide! I've just finished the replacement with this guide step by step, it's really useful and considerable! Now I'm so happy to see the battery health comes back to 100%! So relieving! Thanks again!

HU CHEN - Contestar

I'm having an issue with replacing the wifi antenna on a a1502 MacBook, because the socket for the wifi connector from the antenna came off and I am not sure how to reattach it properly because it gives me a "No Hardware Detected" issue. How do I take apart the screen to remove the antenna? Do I need to deal with heating glue to remove the screen cover?

Bobby Quinn - Contestar

I have a 13" Mac book pro that sustained water damage, the laptop continued towoork bit the battery never gained charge and slowly depleted even on mains power, once the battery reached 0% it no longer powers on regardless of mains power, I think it's an issue with the IC would a battery replacement fix this?

Rich searle - Contestar

I did this. Took me about 1 hour. The iopener required more than 30s for me to heat up, but I got it done. My macbook was damaged because of a wine spill. Not sure how the battery got damaged as a result, as there appeared to be no liquid there, but... That was it.

Also, a bunch of the steps are not necessary, if you are careful. You do need to get the speakers out, but you don't need to do some of the other stuff. I skipped 7-12 and 15, instead folding over the speakers carefully, without detaching them.

howieu - Contestar

The procedure worked perfect. Thanks. It wasn't very difficult really, the only challenge was to get the old batteries loose from the adhesive. Warming up the batteries and working with the card is the solution.

Ib Alstrup - Contestar

Thanks to the author for making a really excellent guide! To remove the glued batteries I used an ifixit putty knife and heated it with a miniature blowtorch. Then I placed the heated ifixit putty knife underneath the batteries which melted the glue and enabled me to lift the batteries out.

Philip Kapp - Contestar

Thanks for the guide. Very easy to follow and execute without missing any critical steps that could have caused damage for a first timer. It was a real bear getting through the adhesive, but patience persevered. Two (sore) thumbs up.

Aaron Lorton - Contestar

For the second time all is fine, delivery time and everything is working well. I replaced the battery and the display on my MacBook Pro a1502 following the tutorials. The most difficult part for me was removing the old the battery .

Thx

david - Contestar

What happens when you put the new battery in? Do you have to put more glue to get the new battery to stick or is it already pretty sticky? Do you even need to worry about putting more glue/adhesive stuff?

Pae Yung - Contestar

Quick delivery ;)

Very useful guide. Everything is working great again. The hardest part was removing the old battery.

Thanks

Jaeger - Contestar

Thank you very mutch, work`s perfect!

Stefan R - Contestar

Fantastic guide guys - well done ! I bought a new battery on eBay and would have been in a lot of trouble without this guide. For what it's worth -there seem to be a lot of questions about glue. I bought a genuine Apple battery, which came complete with glue strips ready to go. Once I removed the old battery and glue strips, I cleaned it up with isopropyl alcohol and stuck the new battery to the clean surface without a hitch.

Martin Gray - Contestar

Very useful guide. Thanks a lot. The mac works now perfect.

office - Contestar

Very useful guide.

office - Contestar

Thank you very mutch, work`s perfect

himdad - Contestar

First guide that I've used from your site. Very simple to follow making the process extremely stress free. Couldn't be more grateful! Thank you!!

Gavin Seamer - Contestar

A grand success! Thanks so much! This guide and the battery kit were perfect.

Sage Freter - Contestar

was your keyboard working after?

Herman -

I installed the battery no problems, but now my keyboard is nonresponsive. Please help!

Herman - Contestar

Take a close look at the keyboard cable ribbon and connector—is there any damage? Try re-seating the cable if you haven't already—flip up the small locking bar on the connector, gently pull the cable out, reinsert it and lock it down.

Jeff Suovanen -

I would add that approaching 2 central battery packs from side is easier (at least on my Mac). Otherwise, great directions for battery removal. Alignment of replacement battery pack, with adhesive covers removed, is somewhat challenging, but I'm back in business.

Dean Livelybrooks - Contestar

Great success with this guide. Some of the steps weren't necessary (i/o board cable removal and speaker cable removal) but all in all it's a fantastic guide. Saved me $$ and only took an hour instead of having it at the repair shop for 5 days!

barak - Contestar

MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement Chinese translation check now!If there is anything need to be improved or revise,welcome to contact me,thanks:)

笑得像个300斤的孩子 - Contestar

Fantastic guide!! Like others mentioned, I skipped steps 7-12 and 15. I used the liquid adhesive remover and was just careful with where I applied it and where it went.

It did take me longer than others, about 2.5 hours.

Thank you so much for this! A repair show wanted $400 for battery and labor, and wanted to keep the computer for a week!

Jonathon Haradon - Contestar

I’ve used a thin string to remove batteries. It went smooth and I was finished in about an 1hr. Also, I skipped some of the steps, just unscrewed speakers to the side without removing cables. Tools provided with battery are amazing, especially for this one and done situation. iFixit saved me some money. Guide is very easy to follow. Thanks guys!

Marinko Marinko - Contestar

With heat instead of solvents, Barak is correct in skipping the speaker removal. Be careful in fitting where the wires cross to the two side batteries under the front bumpers. Great fix kit from ifixit!!

tremm298 - Contestar

Thanks so much for putting this together, it worked like a charm and you’ve saved me a ton of money. I appreciate it!

Henry Briscoe - Contestar

Thanks, it worked but after I was done 2 keyboard keys came off because of the adhesive remover now idk what to do

abbas jassim - Contestar

This guide made everything easy peasy, lemon squeezy! Lol. Easy to follow and love the pic by pic. Thank you.

Alex Valenzuela - Contestar

Easy to follow. Glad I got the full toolkit and a quality battery.

jbell303 - Contestar

Just finished this. Thank you very much for this detailed guide. I used isopropyl alcohol (IPA) against the glue and it worked really well with some patience and lots of tactical tilting. I would still go with the iFixit package if it was shipped to my country, because it’s probably a bit easier and because iFixit is awesome and cool.

While this certainly isn’t a repair for a beginner I wouldn’t say it’s so hard. It’s really only hard because of the glue removal and the careful prying of the various connectors. The rest is just loosening screws and keeping them in order.

Karl Birkir Flosason - Contestar

Completed this tutorial step by step, I bought extra toolkit just to insure I had all tools - 150E for everything VS 210E from apple + 1 week or more without a computer. Took me about 40 minutes - 50 minutes to do everything, and it was fun. So totally worth it! Hope this battery lasts for a long time

Claude M - Contestar

This guide is definitely missing information. If you aren’t extremely careful, you will get acetone into your keyboard and completely ruin it. There is no warning whatsoever that this can happen.

jeremybillheimer - Contestar

This happened to me. The acetone somehow managed to get in contact with the underside of the keyboard and I ended up replacing my whole keyboard. What was initially an affordable way to change my battery ended up being expensive. Next time, I’ll just take it to Apple Genius.

Herman -

@Herman, yeah my feelings exactly. Supposedly Apple replaces the entire top case in the battery service, so I’m hoping it only costs $200. But that makes my $100 repair cost $300. Not worth it.

jeremybillheimer -

The keyboard is underneath the logic board, not the battery. I can see how this might happen if you aren’t careful about where you put the solvent and/or you use way too much, but I wouldn’t fault the guide for that.

Jeff Suovanen -

@Jeff, there is zero warning whatsoever that this can even happen, and its happened to a number of other customers. What is the point of the guide if it doesn’t warn you how to avoid the extremely expensive damage that can occur?

jeremybillheimer -

The debacle continues:

1. You can destroy your keyboard while doing this repair, and the guide does not adequately warn you of this possibility.

2. The keyboard is one of the most expensive and difficult components to replace on this model.

3. While iFixit advertises the replacement battery as OEM, Apple will not recognize it as such. If you then bring it to an Apple store to see if they will repair it, they will flat out refuse to repair your machine. Again, another negative outcome of this repair that it fails to warn about.

Considering the Apple replacement is $200, it is simply not worth the risk to your machine (and the future option to ever have it repaired by Apple again) to save $100. It is reckless, disingenuous, and actively harms the right to repair movement to fail to warn users of this kind of extreme risk.

jeremybillheimer -

There’s a warning in the introduction at the top of the guide to take care where you put the solvent. I know that’s zero consolation and it always sucks to have a repair go sideways on you; I’m just not sure what more can be done at this point. I’ve done a number of MBP batteries with this procedure and had no issues so far, following the procedure closely. If you haven’t already, you may want to reach out to the customer support folks to see about a refund on your kit, so you’re at least not out the cost of that.

Jeff Suovanen -

@Jeff, I’ve already reached out and indicated my frustration, and yeah, a refund is about the best I can hope for at this point to at least offset the additional repairs necessary. I was very careful with the solvent, but it is not at all obvious how it is even possible to get it into the keyboard (which you can’t even see without removing the logic board). I don’t think the guide is clear enough on how to avoid this particular damage, and judging by the comments here, a number of others have had similar problems. Keep in mind, the guide is for people who haven’t done this before and are probably only going to do it one time. They don’t have the specialized knowledge that comes from working on Macbooks frequently. It has to be as specific as possible to the point of hand holding and even warning that you are probably better off just paying the extra $100 to make sure it is done with no extra risk.

Additionally, the guide makes no mention that the replacement battery will result in your machine being banished from Apple’s repair depots. I think that is critical information that a potential buyer needs in order to make a fully informed purchase decision. You can’t claim a battery as OEM when that OEM will disavow it.

jeremybillheimer -

Hi Jeremy,

Sorry to hear of your situation. I have replied to the email you sent our Support team. Thank you for sharing your experience, and we hope this does not deter you from performing repairs in the future.

All the best,

Kadan Sharpe -

Bought the iFixit kit sold here, followed these instructions to the letter, everything went smooth. Used the acetone based solvent method, the only really fiddly bit was getting all the old adhesive dissolved and mopped out. Battery arrived with a 55% charge, now going to watch a movie on battery power to run it down…

impuse - Contestar

Completed the swap out with no problems. Only tedious bit is chiseling off the old adhesive from the case after removing the battery. But if you soak it in solvent (per the instructions) and then lift up at the edge you can use your fingers and pull all the goo up in one satisfying motion.

Thanks to iFixit for not having to give even more to Apple Inc.

Tim Goodsall - Contestar

Instructions were perfect. And thanks to barak as well for the ‘rice in a sock’ idea.

desturtz - Contestar

Hey all, i followed the instruction and it worked pretty well for me. I just have noticed, once my macbook started again, that it doesnt find any documents, applications or any other file via spotlight function and via the search function in the finder anymore. i tried already to reset the spotlight search by adding and deleting HD to the privacy of the spolight search, but that didnt work for me. does anybody know how to solve this problem. I try to avoid to set up my mac via recovery disc.

thanks, pete

peter.anton - Contestar

This worked for me!

Open Terminal

Show hidden files in finder with defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles YES

Hold the 'Option/alt' key, then right click on the Finder icon in the dock and click Relaunch

Navigate in finder to the root volume (Macintosh HD)

Delete .metadata_never_index

Delete immediately in Trash

In Terminal: sudo mdutil -i on /

peter.anton -

took me 45 minutes and I did not purchase any of the tools or fluid, just used lolly sticks and patience, Brough the battery from china for £30 with the special screwdrivers needed.

james essex - Contestar

Thank you Sam, again. I replaced this battery yesterday in my son’s computer. It was my “practice” before daring to touch my own computer. It went without a glitch. This is a clear and comprehensive guide. I am a 67 yo retired accountant and had never done anything like this before. Today I did my computer (early 2013) again with no problems. I feel empowered!

maria longo - Contestar

Thank you, just changed the battery using ifixit’s kit. Only problem i have is that i have tried to follow the instruction to calibrate the battery however, when my mac got to 15% it went to sleep and I had to connect the power cord. I tried to disconnect it again and it went again to sleep. So I can’t really follow the calibration guide since the computer doesn’t turn off because it runs out of battery, instead it goes to sleep.

Max Ime - Contestar

Reseted the smc seems to work fine now. Also, i’ve used a different method to replace the battery which seemed much easier to me. I have used a string as a saw instead of the provided cards. I was able to smoothly and quickly remove each cell

Max Ime -

It was pretty easy to follow the guide; everything went well.

Zsolt Safrany - Contestar

Hi all. I changed the battery, most difficult was remove battery. When I start the laptop I noticed the trackpad doesn’t work, fun is working quickly ( since first minute and even cold) and everything run slowly. Do you know what can I do?. many thanks

Niko Las - Contestar

Worked perfectly! However looking at the design of the laptop looks like it’s not necessary to remove all the components like the guide tell you to do, the battery can be disconnected at step 2!

is there a reason why everything must be removed before removing the battery? Is it the danger of acetone affecting the electronic components?

Amritaansh Verma - Contestar

I just replaced the battery, It was a &&^&^$^ anxiety driven process. The screws that came with the battery were the hardest to deal with but I kinda said &&^& it and left it alone. The acetone is terrifying but with paper towels and working very slowly it was possible to get the battery out, the glue out and not experience any issues. Keyboard is fine, I’m waiting now to charge then kill the replacement. Will update if I have any issues.

Diana Gutierrez - Contestar

Akkuwechsel ging mit der Anleitung und dem iFixit-Akku-Kit (MacBook Pro 13" Retina late 2013) sehr gut, habe zusätzlich zum Aceton “gewachste Zahnseide” zum Lösen der Akkusteile benutzt.

Battery change went very well with the manual and the iFixit battery kit (MacBook Pro 13 "Retina late 2013), in addition to the acetone "waxed dental floss" used to release the battery parts.

Markus Illian - Contestar

Hello, my battery is completely dead. It’s on 0% and unable to be charged. (Charger is working properly) According to battery health apps, it has 0 mAH. The status of the battery is replace now. When the status was on “service battery” the macbook was performing normally. But now it’s extremely slow. Should i do something before trying to install a new battery?

Kristian - Contestar

@alphaumi I’d replace that battery ASAP.

Jeff Suovanen -

I have just replaced my battery. It was way easier than i have expected, but one should follow the steps carefully. With the new battery the laptop is way faster as well!

Kristian -

Brilliant - done in 50 mins ‘con calma’ saved £450 on price quoted by apple.

Oliver Craig - Contestar

Thank you for this excellent replacement kit and superb guide. I followed the steps without any problems and they match the procedure without mistakes. I recovered the battery capacity.

Great job!

Ricardo Cortes - Contestar

I used a hairdryer and credit cards to get the adhesive loose. Not saying you should use a hairdryer, just saying it worked for me just fine.

Pentalobe + torx + hairdryer + credit cards (or nylon string) is all you need.

For some reason my battery didn’t have any screws except for the one near the connector which was strange but whatevs. The adhesive seems to be holding well enough.

Moe Poe - Contestar

Replaced it in about 2 hours. Getting the old batteries out was by far the hardest part, especially since they were already swollen and I wanted to be extra careful.

New battery reports 0 cycles and 100% health as expected. Tools were perfect. I did use the string method for the 2 center batteries. Although it would’ve worked with the solvent too.

iFixit is the best. I hope this site exists forever and will continue supporting them.

Thank you!

Joni Van Roost - Contestar

Awesome guide! I am so happy that my computer now works at full capacity. And so easy with the step-by-step :)

Kayla Fuller - Contestar

MUCH appreciation to the author of this guide, and to those who have posted very helpful comments along the way. The instructions - and especially the photos - are outstanding. This repair is definitely not “easy,” but it is certainly do-able. It’s important to follow the instructions very carefully, without jumping around, to assure no damage to delicate connectors. This repair should breathe new life into one of the very best laptop models ever made by Apple. My old battery lasted six years. If the replacement lasts half as long, I’ll be happy.

Ralph Begleiter - Contestar

Excellent instructions! Very detailed and thorough.

Harsha S - Contestar

I bought a new battery couple of months ago. It worked fine till now. The battery is not charging. Stays at 1%. Tried removing the battery, and putting it back in (as advised), but it didnt help. Tried with other charger, didnt help, tried charging other macbook with my charger and it worked. Any Ideas what can I do?

Kristian - Contestar

@alphaumi You might want to try a simple SMC reset first, but from your description my guess would be it’s a defective battery. :(

Jeff Suovanen -

Removing the old battery is the most time-consuming part of this repair. Patience is ESSENTIAL.

Meanwhile, I used this repair as an opportunity to do some “dusting”. I’d thought I’d been pretty responsible about keeping my PB clean, transporting it safely, etc. I was flabbergasted how much dust and debris had accumulated in 5 yrs. of use! I used a bulb blower to dust some areas. I used a small vacuum with tiny attachments (great for cleaning sewing machines, electronics, etc.) to suck out addition loose crud.

ellamama - Contestar

Well done instructions, even if a little over-kill. I didn’t use adhesive remover or heat to remove my battery. An old credit card wiggled around under the battery with a little force, but nothing more than anyone can do, was enough to cut thru the adhesive of each section in about 1 or 2 minutes of wiggling under each section. It’s easier to start at the corner of each battery section where the adhesive comes to a point since it follows the edge of the original battery.

Jim Turney - Contestar

Wouldn’t it be more effective to apply heat below the batteries? You’d have to unfold the laptop and prop it up somehow, but still…

mcbohdo - Contestar

My ifixit batteries were so bloated that it took nothing but a hair dryer to get them out.

little - Contestar

Easy to replace and works excellent! I did forget to wait 5 hours after depleting the battery.. Is it really a big issue? Its charging now..

erik - Contestar

Worked very well. Took about 1:30h while working very carefully. MBP works again like a charm - thanks so much :)

Sebastian Will - Contestar

I have been using this laptop for 6 years until the battery completely died and it became super slow. I was considering to get a new laptop but thanks to this guide i got the courage to replace the battery myself and now it works like a charm again. Thousand thanks for the guide.

Ümit Orhan - Contestar

I managed to remove battery with dental floss and using rubber gloves for electricians, not the ones that came with the kit. Using dental floss was super easy and quick (around 20 minutes to get the battery out), just do it slowly and pull gently to each side once you get it under. Dental floss does break often, two or three times for each battery component. I suppose this was so easy because my laptop is now 6,5 years old and old battery has swollen a bit, so I don’t know if this advice would help with newer batteries. Also, I didn’t disconnect speaker cables from mainboard and just moved them to each side a bit so that a battery can come out. For me longest process was cleaning with adhesive after the battery was out, so I’m glad that I ordered the full kit with adhesive remover.

johnnyzg - Contestar

Just finished this replacement thanks to this guide. Super excited to see my MacBook brought back to life. It’s still good despite being 7 years old.

I used the threading technique to break out the adhesive behind the battery. A lot less messy and risky than using the acetone I reckon. I only used acetone to clean up the old glue before putting in the new battery.

However, when I went to start it up again I noticed my MacBook was super slow. I then tried pulling the power plug to see what would happened. The whole computer complete shutdown.

Turns out the battery wasn’t being detected by the MacBook. I tried resetting the SMC to no avail.

So I opened it up again and noticed that the battery connected was only on half way and tilted to the side. I pressed it down firmly and it convincingly clicked into place.

Almost had a heart attack but thankfully everything is all good. Battery is reading 1 cycle and 6783mAh capacity.. super sweet! The MacBook feels like new again. Will calibrate to get the most from it

Cheers!

Tony Le - Contestar

I followed the guide very carefully but now when I turn on the laptop the fan is very loud and then I tried to turn on my WiFi but it doesn't turn in. Can you tell me if there is a known reason for this please

Vimal chavda - Contestar

I managed to stop the fan, but still my WiFi doesn't turn on. It DOESNT say that it can't do it, just when I click it, doesn't do anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Other than that, the guide is spot on, thanks so much

Vimal chavda -

i dont use the solvent , i use cord like in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBr_EdoB...

Return - Contestar

Straightforward and easy to follow guide. I would normally freak out doing anything so fiddly, but the guide is great and helped me lots. Took about 45 minutes. Get a bunch of empty containers and post its to write the step and part name and keep everything organised and separate. Very happy to have finished this in one go and without any issues.

markdebono - Contestar

Excellent tutorial I followed it as recommended & it is very good. The extra comments are very helpful. This is the first time I have replaced batteries in a MacBook Pro. I felt confident all the way through, even my 75 year old brain understood all instructions. Thank you for the information.

terryharte - Contestar

Alles hat SUPER funktioniert. Die Schrauben habe ich auf der Klebeseite von einem PostIt aufgereiht und die Bits habe ich vorher auf einen (Kühlschrank)magneten gelegt. Somit waren die kleinen Schrauben kein Problem. Nochmal Danke für alles. Der Apple-Support hatte die Reparatur altersbedingt abgelehnt. Ohne iFixit wäre das Macbook jetzt Schrott.

Mathias Fingerhut - Contestar

Thanks for this tutorial! Easy to follow and replaced the battery in 90 mins.

Niels Guijt - Contestar

I replaced my battery, everything was working fine, but after the first full charge, I was running on battery, suddenly my screen went black. It seems something is wrong with the backlight (external screen is fine, and if I shine a light through the Apple logo I can see the image on the LCD, so that seems to be working fine). I’m wondering is this coincidence or did something go wrong? Did someone have a similar issue? Any help would be welcome…

wannes22 - Contestar

Okay, it seems to be solved. Opened my laptop again and unplugged / plugged the screen connector (after disconnecting the battery) and now it’s working again. A bit strange since I didn’t touch that connector when replacing the battery, but I won’t complain it’s working again :)

wannes22 -

Hallo an das iFixit Team,

Die Anleitung ist perfekt, die Lieferung des Akku Packs von iFixit ging rasend schnell, im Notebook sah es präzise genau so aus wie in der Anleitung. Das Notebook ist repariert und läuft wieder. Herzlichen Dank!

Siegfried Schrotz - Contestar

This worked like a charm! One thing I would like to mention is that there are probably a few steps that can be skipped to save time. For example, you don’t need to do steps 7-12. Just remove the screws holding the left speaker (left one, as you’re looking at the laptop, right one when the laptop is right side up), and gently pull the speaker up and away, so you can work on the battery. The right speaker (again, as you’re looking at the laptop) was a different story, and that one I did remove entirely. Also, it was the easier one to remove (just the 3 screws holding it in place, and the connector).

Other than that, the operation was successful, and the most annoying and time consuming part was not actually removing the battery. It was cleaning up the mess left by the adhesive residue.

All in all I’m very happy with the result. :)

Thank you, iFixit!

arsradu - Contestar

I installed the battery many months ago using the (wonderful) guide and everything works perfect. I only have one question: is this battery slightly smaller than the original one? I used the strips to glue it down, but I feel like it’s moving around in the casing. I opened it again and put extra strips, but the problem is still there… Any advice?

info - Contestar

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