Introducción

Utiliza esta guía para remover la batería pegada de tu MacBook Pro con la ayuda del kit de reemplazo de batería de iFixit. El removedor de adhesivo en tu kit disolverá el adhesivo que sujeta la batería, permitiéndote removerla con facilidad. La batería está constituida de seis celdas diferentes, cuatro de las cuales están adheridas a la caja superior.

El removedor de adhesivo de iFixit es altamente inflamable. Realiza este procedimiento en un área muy bien ventilada. No fumes o trabajes cerca de una flama al descubierto durante este procedimiento.

Para tu seguridad, descarga la batería de tu MacBook Pro antes de comenzar este procedimiento. Una batería cargada de ion de litio puede crear una incendio peligroso e incontrolable si se perfora accidentalmente. Si tu batería está hinchada, toma precauciones adicionales.

Nota: El solvente utilizado para disolver el adhesivo de batería puede dañar ciertos plásticos, como los recintos de plástico de los altavoces de la MacBook Pro. Ten cuidado al aplicar el solvente.

Si estás utilizando el removedor de adhesivo iFixit de estilo antiguo con una botella y una jeringa (no se vende más), [guía|110109|haz clic aquí para una guía de instrucciones ligeramente modificada].

    • Quita los 10 tornillos que aseguran la parte inferior de la carcasa a la parte superior:

    • Dos tornillos Pentalobe de 2.3 mm

    • Ocho tornillos Pentalobe de 3.0 mm

    • A lo largo de esta reparación, realiza un seguimiento de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que vuelva exactamente de donde proviene para evitar dañar tu dispositivo.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Contestar

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - Contestar

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

    Edison - Contestar

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Contestar

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - Contestar

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - Contestar

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Contestar

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Contestar

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Contestar

  1. Introduce tus dedos entre la parte superior y la parte inferior de la carcasa.
    • Introduce tus dedos entre la parte superior y la parte inferior de la carcasa.

    • Tira suavemente de la carcasa inferior para retirarla.

  2. La carcasa inferior está conectada a la carcasa superior con dos clips de plástico cerca de su centro. Durante el reensamblaje, empuja suavemente hacia abajo el centro de la carcasa inferior para volver a sujetar los dos clips de plástico.
    • La carcasa inferior está conectada a la carcasa superior con dos clips de plástico cerca de su centro.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, empuja suavemente hacia abajo el centro de la carcasa inferior para volver a sujetar los dos clips de plástico.

    There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

    wrbandllm - Contestar

    This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

    addvariety - Contestar

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - Contestar

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - Contestar

  3. Si es necesario, remueve la cubierta de plástico adherida a la placa de contacto de la batería.
    • Si es necesario, remueve la cubierta de plástico adherida a la placa de contacto de la batería.

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - Contestar

    There is no point on going near the battery or logic board. I cut out these steps with no issue. It is precautionary but unnecessary.

    Jaime Leonard - Contestar

  4. Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de batería directamente de su enchufe en la placa lógica. Asegúrate de levantar solo en el conector o puedes arriesgarte a dañar la placa lógica permanentemente.
    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de batería directamente de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de levantar solo en el conector o puedes arriesgarte a dañar la placa lógica permanentemente.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Contestar

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - Contestar

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Contestar

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - Contestar

  5. Pliega el conector de la batería hacía arriba y sácalo del medio para prevenir contacto accidental con su enchufe durante la reparación.
    • Pliega el conector de la batería hacía arriba y sácalo del medio para prevenir contacto accidental con su enchufe durante la reparación.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Contestar

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Contestar

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - Contestar

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - Contestar

  6. Remueve los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 2.1 mm que sujetan el extremo de la  placa lógica del soporte del cable de placa de E/S.
    • Remueve los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 2.1 mm que sujetan el extremo de la placa lógica del soporte del cable de placa de E/S.

    At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

    Martin Gray - Contestar

    This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

    barak - Contestar

    After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

    driesverfaillie - Contestar

    While it may not be necessary to remove the left and right speakers, doing so will make it much easier to get at (and under) the end batteries and their adhesive pads. Also, by removing the speakers, you also get them out of harm’s way while you wrestle with loosening the batteries’ adhesives.

    I recommend removing the speakers and their connectors as described in the iFixit instructions.

    doubleclutch - Contestar

  7. Agarra el soporte del cable de placa de E/S con un par de pincitas y remuévelo de tu MacBook.
    • Agarra el soporte del cable de placa de E/S con un par de pincitas y remuévelo de tu MacBook.

  8. Usa el extremo plano del spudger para sacar el conector de placa de E/S directamente de su enchufe en la placa lógica. Ten cuidado de sacarlo del cable de placa de E/S y no del enchufe porque corres el riesgo de dañar tu placa lógica.
    • Usa el extremo plano del spudger para sacar el conector de placa de E/S directamente de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Ten cuidado de sacarlo del cable de placa de E/S y no del enchufe porque corres el riesgo de dañar tu placa lógica.

  9. Levanta el extremo de la placa lógica del cable de placa de E/S para plegarlo y sacarlo del medio. Para evitar dañar el cable, dobla solo en el pliegue del extremo del cable de placa de E/S.
    • Levanta el extremo de la placa lógica del cable de placa de E/S para plegarlo y sacarlo del medio.

    • Para evitar dañar el cable, dobla solo en el pliegue del extremo del cable de placa de E/S.

    I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

    lamajr - Contestar

  10. Con cuidado coloca la punta del spudger bajo el cable del altavoz derecho cerca del conector y levántalo de su enchufe en la placa lógica. Con cuidado coloca la punta del spudger bajo el cable del altavoz derecho cerca del conector y levántalo de su enchufe en la placa lógica.
    • Con cuidado coloca la punta del spudger bajo el cable del altavoz derecho cerca del conector y levántalo de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

    barak - Contestar

    WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

    jiclark - Contestar

  11. ¡Envío gratuito para todos los pedidos de más de USD100 o que contengan un Pro Tech Toolkit!

    Visita Nuestra Tienda
  12. Con cuidado quita el cable del altavoz derecho de la caja superior. Con cuidado quita el cable del altavoz derecho de la caja superior. Con cuidado quita el cable del altavoz derecho de la caja superior.
    • Con cuidado quita el cable del altavoz derecho de la caja superior.

  13. Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el altavoz derecho de la caja superior:
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el altavoz derecho de la caja superior:

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5.7 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 6.5 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 3.8 mm

  14. Levanta el altavoz derecho del extremo de cable y sácalo de la caja. Levanta el altavoz derecho del extremo de cable y sácalo de la caja. Levanta el altavoz derecho del extremo de cable y sácalo de la caja.
    • Levanta el altavoz derecho del extremo de cable y sácalo de la caja.

  15. Con cuidado coloca la punta del spudger bajo el cable del altavoz izquierdo cerca del conector y levántalo de su enchufe en la placa lógica. Con cuidado coloca la punta del spudger bajo el cable del altavoz izquierdo cerca del conector y levántalo de su enchufe en la placa lógica.
    • Con cuidado coloca la punta del spudger bajo el cable del altavoz izquierdo cerca del conector y levántalo de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - Contestar

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - Contestar

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    lamajr - Contestar

  16. Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el altavoz izquierdo de la caja superior:
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el altavoz izquierdo de la caja superior:

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 5.7 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 6.5 mm

    • Un tornillo Torx T5 de 3.8 mm

  17. Levanta la esquina del altavoz izquierdo y deslízalo fuera de la batería para removerlo de la caja superior. Ten cuidado de no enganchar el cable del altavoz en el orificio del tornillo al lado de la caja. Ten cuidado de no enganchar el cable del altavoz en el orificio del tornillo al lado de la caja.
    • Levanta la esquina del altavoz izquierdo y deslízalo fuera de la batería para removerlo de la caja superior.

    • Ten cuidado de no enganchar el cable del altavoz en el orificio del tornillo al lado de la caja.

  18. Remueve los cinco tornillos Torx T5 de 3.7 mm que sujetan la batería a la caja superior.
    • Remueve los cinco tornillos Torx T5 de 3.7 mm que sujetan la batería a la caja superior.

    In my macbook pro retina, these are some kind of plastic screws. I cannot remove them.

    adriendavernas - Contestar

    The plastic screws just need to be pulled out with a spudger/finger and you're good to go. I have the same model, there's also a screw on the power board not mentioned in this guide, takes a T5 screwdriver/bit

    alex - Contestar

    Question - when putting the new battery back into the case, do we need to remove old glue/add new glue, use no glue at all, or place the battery in and then reheat to melt the old glue so that it will adhere to the new battery? Thanks!

    chal740 - Contestar

    What is the part number for this battery, or where can I find it?

    dfreeman110 -

    I wish to ask the same question.

    vbivanov -

    My adhesive didn't have enough tack to hold the battery in. I just reassembled without it and can't hear the batteries moving, but I have the rubber grommets and not screws as MarkB mentioned. Fo future repairers, I'd recommend buying some nonpermanent two sided tape just so you have the option to fasten it in.

    Vince Cipriani -

    I wish they would find another way of securing the battery, this is ridiculous.

    brian whittle - Contestar

    On each 'corner' of the frame that surrounds the two centre batteries, rather than 'plastic screws' mentioned by adriendavernas there are 'domed' rubber grommets. These presumably rest against the inside of the bottom cover when it is fitted thus supporting the batteries. As there were no screws underneath in these 4 positions, there is no need to remove these grommets. Agree with alex re: removing the extra T5 screw on the power board.

    MarkB - Contestar

    After destroying the adhesive which secures the batteries (bad technique or lack of patience in my effort) what is recommended to secure the batteries when reassembling?

    maxB - Contestar

    The iFixit Battery had adhesive pre-applied. plenty of 3M Tissue Tape

    Rhys Goode -

    I only had the single far right screw to remove.

    barak - Contestar

    My replacement A1582 battery actually had holes for the screws, though my original A1582 battery only had the 'domed' rubber grommets. Anyways, putting in the OEM A1582 battery without anything in the holes worked ok.

    Srini Seetharaman - Contestar

    I wanted to put the rubber grommets on the new battery, so I used tweezers to get them back through the holes on the new battery

    Dallin Christensen - Contestar

    Can somebody tell me what kind of screws I would need to secure the new battery? I would like to put screws into the screwholes left open by those rubber grommets.

    thekryz - Contestar

  19. El removedor líquido de adhesivo que viene en tu kit puede afectar la capa antireflectante en la pantalla de tu MacBook Pro.
    • El removedor líquido de adhesivo que viene en tu kit puede afectar la capa antireflectante en la pantalla de tu MacBook Pro.

    • Para proteger tu pantalla, coloca una hoja de folio de aluminio entre la pantalla y el teclado y déjalo ahí mientras trabajas.

  20. Si tienes un kit de batería iFixit con removedor líquido de adhesivo, es hora de prepararlo. Alternativamente, si estás utilizando el método iOpener caliente, salta los siguientes tres pasos.
    • Si tienes un kit de batería iFixit con removedor líquido de adhesivo, es hora de prepararlo.

    • Alternativamente, si estás utilizando el método iOpener caliente, salta los siguientes tres pasos.

    • El removedor de adhesivo de iFixit contiene acetona, un irritante leve de la piel y ojos.

    • Usa protección para ojos al manejar y aplicar el removedor de adhesivo. (La protección para ojos está incluida en tu kit)

    • No uses lentes de contacto sin protección de ojos.

    • Los guantes protectores están también incluidos en tu kit. Si te preocupa la irritación de la piel, ponte los guantes ahora.

  21. Saca el tapón de goma de tu botella de removedor de adhesivo. Tuerce para aflojar y remover la tapa antes de cortar la punta del aplicador. Esto quita el sello de la botella y permite que la presión se iguale antes de cortar la punta del aplicador. Si te saltas este paso, el removedor de adhesivo saldrá de forma inesperada cuando se corte la punta.
    • Saca el tapón de goma de tu botella de removedor de adhesivo.

    • Tuerce para aflojar y remover la tapa antes de cortar la punta del aplicador.

    • Esto quita el sello de la botella y permite que la presión se iguale antes de cortar la punta del aplicador. Si te saltas este paso, el removedor de adhesivo saldrá de forma inesperada cuando se corte la punta.

    • Utiliza una tijera para cortar la punta sellada del aplicador.

    • Cortar cerca de la punta angosta te dará control así puedes aplicar el removedor de adhesivo en pequeñas cantidades.

    • Tuerce y cierra la tapa de forma segura antes de proceder.

    Air can tilted upside down to freeze the adhesive works very well also. I just used this method today to pull a battery.

    aadeshina - Contestar

    @aadeshina - That’s an excellent suggestion. I took your advice, and tried it with a can of MG Chemicals “403C Super Cold Spray”, which I had on hand for other electronics work. It worked very well — it froze the adhesive to the point where it was quite easy to work the plastic iFixit cards under the batteries, and pry them loose.

    I like this freeze technique much better than the volatile, flammable, risky solvent approach for removing the batteries. I did however find the solvent useful for softening and removing the residual adhesive remaining in the case after the old batteries were removed.

    There are many brands of aerosol freeze sprays available on Amazon, DigiKey, Mouser, etc.

    doubleclutch - Contestar

  22. Aplica una pequeña cantidad de removedor de adhesivo de forma pareja bajo el borde de la celda de batería que se encuentra en el extremo derecho.
    • Aplica una pequeña cantidad de removedor de adhesivo de forma pareja bajo el borde de la celda de batería que se encuentra en el extremo derecho.

    • No necesitas usar mucho. La pequeña botella contiene más del doble de cantidad de solvente necesario para remover todas las celdas de batería.

    • Espera 2-3 minutos para que el removedor de líquido de adhesivo penetre por debajo de la celda de batería antes de proceder con el próximo paso.

    • No aplica más de 1 ml del removedor de adhesivo a la vez. Usar demasiado removedor puede hacer que el removedor llegue a la parte trasera de tu teclado y dañarlo potencialmente.

    I managed to remove the battery without the adhesive by using the thread technique. More info in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... . Just make sure you have someone to help you and hold the laptop in place for you.

    driesverfaillie - Contestar

    Thank you very much! This is an absolute win technique

    Денис Медведев -

    For easier removal I used a combination of heat from a hot water bottle and solvent.

    ip_leyland - Contestar

  23. Si no tienes removedor líquido de adhesivo, usarás un iOpener caliente y ablanda una sección del adhesivo que sujeta la batería a la caja trasera, y luego levanta en ese punto. Usa el iOpener caliente para cubrir la mitad de las dos celdas baterías en el extremo derecho.
    • Si no tienes removedor líquido de adhesivo, usarás un iOpener caliente y ablanda una sección del adhesivo que sujeta la batería a la caja trasera, y luego levanta en ese punto.

    • Usa el iOpener caliente para cubrir la mitad de las dos celdas baterías en el extremo derecho.

    • Luego de alrededor de un minuto, vuelve a calentar el iOpener y muévelo para que cubra la otra mitad de las dos celdas de baterías en el extremo derecho.

    I did not have an iOpener. I did not fancy using a heat gun on the batteries either so I used two flat metal spudgers to prise them off the body of the mac book. I hit the spudgers with a small hammer.

    Alex Birkett - Contestar

    I popped the freaking iopener in the microwave following this instruction. Said to heat for 30 secs put on for a minute then reheat after that minute. Then read on the iopener that I shouldn't heat more the once unless after two minutes. Just wonderful.

    Jennifer Myer - Contestar

    I used a sock filled with rice and it worked exactly the same. Microwaved it for 2 minutes (hot enough to barely hold) and set it on the batteries as above for 2 minutes.

    Then I reheated it for a minute and opened up the laptop, and slide my DYI iOpener under so it was directly under the batteries (across the trackpad portion of the laptop). This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. I ended up letting the screen hang over the edge of the table while I pried the batteries out.

    barak - Contestar

    This heating with the iOpener took me forever. I tried my fair share of heating followed by nudging slowly with a credit card 1 mm at a time. Finally pried it off after 30 mins.

    Srini Seetharaman - Contestar

  24. Empuja una tarjeta de plástico entre la celda de la batería del extremo derecho y la caja superior, cortando el adhesivo entre los dos. Durante este procedimiento, ten cuidado de no dañar cualquiera de las celdas de la batería con tus herramientas. Una batería de ion de litio podría perder sustancias químicas y/o prenderse fuego. Usa solamente herramientas de plástico para hacer palanca.
    • Empuja una tarjeta de plástico entre la celda de la batería del extremo derecho y la caja superior, cortando el adhesivo entre los dos.

    • Durante este procedimiento, ten cuidado de no dañar cualquiera de las celdas de la batería con tus herramientas. Una batería de ion de litio podría perder sustancias químicas y/o prenderse fuego. Usa solamente herramientas de plástico para hacer palanca.

    • Cuando utilices el método de iOpener caliente, si encuentras resistencia significativa para hacer palanca deténte y usa el iOpener para volver a calentar la sección en la que estás trabajando.

    In addition to using the wheat bag/iOpener to loosen the batteries, I found it useful each time I inserted the plastic card under the batteries to give the card a 'wipe' with isopropyl alcohol to ensure that it didn't stick to the adhesive holding the batteries down. it also presumably eases the glue away from the batteries somewhat.

    MarkB - Contestar

    Do the same tools and steps work on a MacBook Pro 15" late 2015 model?

    Sean - Contestar

    Heat can be dangerous to Li-Ion batteries, no???

    Alex - Contestar

    Excessive heat can be dangerous, but the iOpener is designed to never get hot enough to cause permanent damage. Using a heat gun or hot plate could be dangerous, but the iOpener method is the safest one we know of =)

    Sam Lionheart -

    I found it helpful to use some dental floss to help loosen each cell and then pry the rest off with the card

    Dallin Christensen - Contestar

  25. Usa la tarjeta de plástico para levantar la celda de batería del extremo derecho de la caja trasera. Usa la tarjeta de plástico para levantar la celda de batería del extremo derecho de la caja trasera.
    • Usa la tarjeta de plástico para levantar la celda de batería del extremo derecho de la caja trasera.

  26. Repite este procedimiento con la celda de batería adyacente: Aplica una cantidad pequeña (alrededor de 1 ml) de removedor líquido de adhesivo debajo de la celda de batería, y espera 2-3 minutos para que penetre y ablande el adhesivo. Alternativamente, vuelve a calentar esta sección con su iOpener si es necesario.
    • Repite este procedimiento con la celda de batería adyacente:

    • Aplica una cantidad pequeña (alrededor de 1 ml) de removedor líquido de adhesivo debajo de la celda de batería, y espera 2-3 minutos para que penetre y ablande el adhesivo.

    • Alternativamente, vuelve a calentar esta sección con su iOpener si es necesario.

    • Empuja una tarjeta de plástico alrededor de una pulgada entre la celda de batería y la caja superior y lentamente levanta la celda para separarla de todo el adhesivo.

  27. Deja temporalmente tu tarjeta de plástico debajo de las dos celdas de baterías del extremo derecho para prevenir que se vuelvan a adherir a la caja superior. Si estás utilizando un iOpener, vuelve a calentar y aplicarlo, esta vez en las celdas de baterías del extremo izquierdo. Nuevamente, deja el iOpener en cada posición durante un minuto, volviendo a calentar entremedio, para calentar cada mitad de las celdas de batería del extremo izquierdo.
    • Deja temporalmente tu tarjeta de plástico debajo de las dos celdas de baterías del extremo derecho para prevenir que se vuelvan a adherir a la caja superior.

    • Si estás utilizando un iOpener, vuelve a calentar y aplicarlo, esta vez en las celdas de baterías del extremo izquierdo.

    • Nuevamente, deja el iOpener en cada posición durante un minuto, volviendo a calentar entremedio, para calentar cada mitad de las celdas de batería del extremo izquierdo.

  28. Repite el procedimiento de arriba para separar las dos celdas de batería del extremo izquierdo de la caja superior. Recuerda de aplicar una pequeña cantidad de removedor líquido de adhesivo y espera 2-3 minutos para que penetre y ablande el adhesivo. Usa una segunda tarjeta de plástico para separar las dos celdas de batería del extremo izquierdo de la caja superior.
    • Repite el procedimiento de arriba para separar las dos celdas de batería del extremo izquierdo de la caja superior.

    • Recuerda de aplicar una pequeña cantidad de removedor líquido de adhesivo y espera 2-3 minutos para que penetre y ablande el adhesivo.

    • Usa una segunda tarjeta de plástico para separar las dos celdas de batería del extremo izquierdo de la caja superior.

  29. Deja la segunda tarjeta en la esquina entre las dos celdas de baterías izquierdas.
    • Deja la segunda tarjeta en la esquina entre las dos celdas de baterías izquierdas.

    • En los siguientes pasos, puedes usar una tercera tarjeta o la tarjeta de la esquina derecha. El adhesivo de la esquina derecha deberá estar suficientemente seco o frío para que las celdas puedan ser fácilmente levantadas otra vez cuando sea necesario.

  30. Para separar el adhesivo que sujeta la dos baterías finales del medio, aplica otro milímetro de removedor líquido de adhesivo (o tu iOpener) en cada celda. Aplica el removedor de adhesivo con moderación ya que el trackpad se encuentra debajo de este área de la batería.
    • Para separar el adhesivo que sujeta la dos baterías finales del medio, aplica otro milímetro de removedor líquido de adhesivo (o tu iOpener) en cada celda.

    • Aplica el removedor de adhesivo con moderación ya que el trackpad se encuentra debajo de este área de la batería.

    • Podría ayudar si elevas un lado de tu MacBook Pro unas pulgadas para que el removedor de adhesivo fluya en la dirección correcta, por debajo de las celdas de batería. Puedes usar un libro robusto o bloque de espuma para apoyar un lado de tu MacBook Pro mientras trabajas.

    • Introduce la tarjeta alrededor de una pulgada entre la celda de batería del centro izquierdo y la caja superior, separando el adhesivo entre la celda y la caja.

    My laptop had a strip over these center batteries. I had to remove that before getting the center batteries off.

    Srini Seetharaman - Contestar

    My plastic cards were hitting a black trackpad backing. I thought this was the adhesive not coming off. I also didn’t want to harm the battery and didn’t bring the card up enough.

    I found out by going through one of the side batteries, but could have just raised the tip of the card very slightly.

    Cameron Malek - Contestar

    I recommend you do not use the liquid adhesive remover for the middle battery pods. These do not rest nicely in their own “tray” like the two parts on the left and right. Consequently, it is very easy to apply too much liquid, allowing the excess to run into your trackpad and logic board. Even though the liquid dries quickly, it does leave behind a little residue. The result from my experience was a slightly faulty connection for my screen, causing random pixel flickers in dark spaces on my screen. Use the floss method found elsewhere online. It is much more difficult to get out but does not risk damaging your computer.

    Andrew Jensen - Contestar

  31. Retira la tarjeta y vuelve a introducirla una pulgada entre la celda de batería del centro derecho y la caja superior, separando el adhesivo entre la celda y la caja. Retira la tarjeta y vuelve a introducirla una pulgada entre la celda de batería del centro derecho y la caja superior, separando el adhesivo entre la celda y la caja.
    • Retira la tarjeta y vuelve a introducirla una pulgada entre la celda de batería del centro derecho y la caja superior, separando el adhesivo entre la celda y la caja.

  32. En este punto, las celdas externas deberían estar libres y podrías encontrar resistencia en las dos celdas del centro. Si esto no es el caso, vuelve hacia atrás y afloja completamente las cuatros celdas más externas de la caja superior. Levanta las dos celdas del centro para separar el último adhesivo y sacar la batería del dispositivo.
    • En este punto, las celdas externas deberían estar libres y podrías encontrar resistencia en las dos celdas del centro. Si esto no es el caso, vuelve hacia atrás y afloja completamente las cuatros celdas más externas de la caja superior.

    • Levanta las dos celdas del centro para separar el último adhesivo y sacar la batería del dispositivo.

    I found that gentle application from a heat gun works well enough to soften the adhesive. Use a plastic card to help as you go. Use caution not to over heat anything.

    John Lerefebvre - Contestar

  33. Remueve la batería. Antes de instalar una batería nueva, remueve todo el adhesivo viejo de la caja de la MacBook Pro.
    • Remueve la batería.

    • Antes de instalar una batería nueva, remueve todo el adhesivo viejo de la caja de la MacBook Pro.

    • Con un poco de suerte, puedes lentamente levantar cada tira de adhesivo con tus dedos.

    • De lo contrario, empapa cada sección de adhesivo con un poco de removedor de adhesivo durante 2-3 minutos y luego raspa y sácalo con un pico de apertura o cualquiera de las herramientas en tu kit. Esto podría ser mucho trabajo, así que ten paciencia.

    • Limpia cualquier resto de removedor de adhesivo y dale a tu MacBook Pro durante unos pocos minutos para que se seque al aire.

    • La batería de reemplazo incluida en tu kit de iFixit viene con un adhesivo pre-instalado. Prueba el ajuste y la alineación de la batería con cuidado antes de quitar la capa que cubre el adhesivo y luego presiona cada celda firmemente en su lugar. Si hay capas y recubrimientos adicionales que no estaban en la batería original, remuévelos ahora.

    • Cárgala hasta el 100% y luego sigue cargándola durante al menos 2 horas más. Luego, desenchúfala y úsala normalmente para drenar la batería. Cuando veas la advertencia de batería baja, guarda tu trabajo y mantén tu laptop encendida hasta que se duerma. Espera al menos 5 horas, luego cárgala de forma ininterrumpida hasta 100%.

    • Si notas alguna conducta o problema inusual luego de instalar tu batería nueva, podrías necesitar restablecer el SMC de tu MacBook Pro.

    RECOMMENDATION: The battery connector and associated screw are critical when considering battery alignment. Also don’t forget the left and right speaker assemblies when aligning the two small outer cells. I didn’t consider these and had issues.

    Also, keep the transparent top film on the battery to keep the cells aligned with respect to each other, and always support all the cells if handling upside down.

    Cameron Malek - Contestar

    I agree, if you don’t reinstall the speaker assemblies before installing the battery, they may be impossible to put back in after the battery has adhered

    Dallin Christensen -

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue las instrucciones en orden inverso.

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Sam Lionheart

Miembro Desde 18/10/12

363,121 Reputación

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Great thanks to the author for this flawless guide! I've just finished the replacement with this guide step by step, it's really useful and considerable! Now I'm so happy to see the battery health comes back to 100%! So relieving! Thanks again!

HU CHEN - Contestar

I'm having an issue with replacing the wifi antenna on a a1502 MacBook, because the socket for the wifi connector from the antenna came off and I am not sure how to reattach it properly because it gives me a "No Hardware Detected" issue. How do I take apart the screen to remove the antenna? Do I need to deal with heating glue to remove the screen cover?

Bobby Quinn - Contestar

I have a 13" Mac book pro that sustained water damage, the laptop continued towoork bit the battery never gained charge and slowly depleted even on mains power, once the battery reached 0% it no longer powers on regardless of mains power, I think it's an issue with the IC would a battery replacement fix this?

Rich searle - Contestar

I did this. Took me about 1 hour. The iopener required more than 30s for me to heat up, but I got it done. My macbook was damaged because of a wine spill. Not sure how the battery got damaged as a result, as there appeared to be no liquid there, but... That was it.

Also, a bunch of the steps are not necessary, if you are careful. You do need to get the speakers out, but you don't need to do some of the other stuff. I skipped 7-12 and 15, instead folding over the speakers carefully, without detaching them.

howieu - Contestar

The procedure worked perfect. Thanks. It wasn't very difficult really, the only challenge was to get the old batteries loose from the adhesive. Warming up the batteries and working with the card is the solution.

Ib Alstrup - Contestar

Thanks to the author for making a really excellent guide! To remove the glued batteries I used an ifixit putty knife and heated it with a miniature blowtorch. Then I placed the heated ifixit putty knife underneath the batteries which melted the glue and enabled me to lift the batteries out.

Philip Kapp - Contestar

Thanks for the guide. Very easy to follow and execute without missing any critical steps that could have caused damage for a first timer. It was a real bear getting through the adhesive, but patience persevered. Two (sore) thumbs up.

Aaron Lorton - Contestar

For the second time all is fine, delivery time and everything is working well. I replaced the battery and the display on my MacBook Pro a1502 following the tutorials. The most difficult part for me was removing the old the battery .

Thx

david - Contestar

What happens when you put the new battery in? Do you have to put more glue to get the new battery to stick or is it already pretty sticky? Do you even need to worry about putting more glue/adhesive stuff?

Pae Yung - Contestar

Quick delivery ;)

Very useful guide. Everything is working great again. The hardest part was removing the old battery.

Thanks

Jaeger - Contestar

Thank you very mutch, work`s perfect!

Stefan R - Contestar

Fantastic guide guys - well done ! I bought a new battery on eBay and would have been in a lot of trouble without this guide. For what it's worth -there seem to be a lot of questions about glue. I bought a genuine Apple battery, which came complete with glue strips ready to go. Once I removed the old battery and glue strips, I cleaned it up with isopropyl alcohol and stuck the new battery to the clean surface without a hitch.

Martin Gray - Contestar

Very useful guide. Thanks a lot. The mac works now perfect.

office - Contestar

Very useful guide.

office - Contestar

Thank you very mutch, work`s perfect

himdad - Contestar

First guide that I've used from your site. Very simple to follow making the process extremely stress free. Couldn't be more grateful! Thank you!!

Gavin Seamer - Contestar

A grand success! Thanks so much! This guide and the battery kit were perfect.

Sage Freter - Contestar

was your keyboard working after?

Herman -

I installed the battery no problems, but now my keyboard is nonresponsive. Please help!

Herman - Contestar

Take a close look at the keyboard cable ribbon and connector—is there any damage? Try re-seating the cable if you haven't already—flip up the small locking bar on the connector, gently pull the cable out, reinsert it and lock it down.

Jeff Suovanen -

I would add that approaching 2 central battery packs from side is easier (at least on my Mac). Otherwise, great directions for battery removal. Alignment of replacement battery pack, with adhesive covers removed, is somewhat challenging, but I'm back in business.

Dean Livelybrooks - Contestar

Great success with this guide. Some of the steps weren't necessary (i/o board cable removal and speaker cable removal) but all in all it's a fantastic guide. Saved me $$ and only took an hour instead of having it at the repair shop for 5 days!

barak - Contestar

MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement Chinese translation check now!If there is anything need to be improved or revise,welcome to contact me,thanks:)

笑得像个300斤的孩子 - Contestar

Fantastic guide!! Like others mentioned, I skipped steps 7-12 and 15. I used the liquid adhesive remover and was just careful with where I applied it and where it went.

It did take me longer than others, about 2.5 hours.

Thank you so much for this! A repair show wanted $400 for battery and labor, and wanted to keep the computer for a week!

Jonathon Haradon - Contestar

I’ve used a thin string to remove batteries. It went smooth and I was finished in about an 1hr. Also, I skipped some of the steps, just unscrewed speakers to the side without removing cables. Tools provided with battery are amazing, especially for this one and done situation. iFixit saved me some money. Guide is very easy to follow. Thanks guys!

Marinko Marinko - Contestar

With heat instead of solvents, Barak is correct in skipping the speaker removal. Be careful in fitting where the wires cross to the two side batteries under the front bumpers. Great fix kit from ifixit!!

tremm298 - Contestar

Thanks so much for putting this together, it worked like a charm and you’ve saved me a ton of money. I appreciate it!

Henry Briscoe - Contestar

Thanks, it worked but after I was done 2 keyboard keys came off because of the adhesive remover now idk what to do

abbas jassim - Contestar

This guide made everything easy peasy, lemon squeezy! Lol. Easy to follow and love the pic by pic. Thank you.

Alex Valenzuela - Contestar

Easy to follow. Glad I got the full toolkit and a quality battery.

jbell303 - Contestar

Just finished this. Thank you very much for this detailed guide. I used isopropyl alcohol (IPA) against the glue and it worked really well with some patience and lots of tactical tilting. I would still go with the iFixit package if it was shipped to my country, because it’s probably a bit easier and because iFixit is awesome and cool.

While this certainly isn’t a repair for a beginner I wouldn’t say it’s so hard. It’s really only hard because of the glue removal and the careful prying of the various connectors. The rest is just loosening screws and keeping them in order.

Karl Birkir Flosason - Contestar

Completed this tutorial step by step, I bought extra toolkit just to insure I had all tools - 150E for everything VS 210E from apple + 1 week or more without a computer. Took me about 40 minutes - 50 minutes to do everything, and it was fun. So totally worth it! Hope this battery lasts for a long time

Claude M - Contestar

This guide is definitely missing information. If you aren’t extremely careful, you will get acetone into your keyboard and completely ruin it. There is no warning whatsoever that this can happen.

jeremybillheimer - Contestar

This happened to me. The acetone somehow managed to get in contact with the underside of the keyboard and I ended up replacing my whole keyboard. What was initially an affordable way to change my battery ended up being expensive. Next time, I’ll just take it to Apple Genius.

Herman -

@Herman, yeah my feelings exactly. Supposedly Apple replaces the entire top case in the battery service, so I’m hoping it only costs $200. But that makes my $100 repair cost $300. Not worth it.

jeremybillheimer -

The keyboard is underneath the logic board, not the battery. I can see how this might happen if you aren’t careful about where you put the solvent and/or you use way too much, but I wouldn’t fault the guide for that.

Jeff Suovanen -

@Jeff, there is zero warning whatsoever that this can even happen, and its happened to a number of other customers. What is the point of the guide if it doesn’t warn you how to avoid the extremely expensive damage that can occur?

jeremybillheimer -

The debacle continues:

1. You can destroy your keyboard while doing this repair, and the guide does not adequately warn you of this possibility.

2. The keyboard is one of the most expensive and difficult components to replace on this model.

3. While iFixit advertises the replacement battery as OEM, Apple will not recognize it as such. If you then bring it to an Apple store to see if they will repair it, they will flat out refuse to repair your machine. Again, another negative outcome of this repair that it fails to warn about.

Considering the Apple replacement is $200, it is simply not worth the risk to your machine (and the future option to ever have it repaired by Apple again) to save $100. It is reckless, disingenuous, and actively harms the right to repair movement to fail to warn users of this kind of extreme risk.

jeremybillheimer -

There’s a warning in the introduction at the top of the guide to take care where you put the solvent. I know that’s zero consolation and it always sucks to have a repair go sideways on you; I’m just not sure what more can be done at this point. I’ve done a number of MBP batteries with this procedure and had no issues so far, following the procedure closely. If you haven’t already, you may want to reach out to the customer support folks to see about a refund on your kit, so you’re at least not out the cost of that.

Jeff Suovanen -

@Jeff, I’ve already reached out and indicated my frustration, and yeah, a refund is about the best I can hope for at this point to at least offset the additional repairs necessary. I was very careful with the solvent, but it is not at all obvious how it is even possible to get it into the keyboard (which you can’t even see without removing the logic board). I don’t think the guide is clear enough on how to avoid this particular damage, and judging by the comments here, a number of others have had similar problems. Keep in mind, the guide is for people who haven’t done this before and are probably only going to do it one time. They don’t have the specialized knowledge that comes from working on Macbooks frequently. It has to be as specific as possible to the point of hand holding and even warning that you are probably better off just paying the extra $100 to make sure it is done with no extra risk.

Additionally, the guide makes no mention that the replacement battery will result in your machine being banished from Apple’s repair depots. I think that is critical information that a potential buyer needs in order to make a fully informed purchase decision. You can’t claim a battery as OEM when that OEM will disavow it.

jeremybillheimer -

Hi Jeremy,

Sorry to hear of your situation. I have replied to the email you sent our Support team. Thank you for sharing your experience, and we hope this does not deter you from performing repairs in the future.

All the best,

Kadan Sharpe -

Bought the iFixit kit sold here, followed these instructions to the letter, everything went smooth. Used the acetone based solvent method, the only really fiddly bit was getting all the old adhesive dissolved and mopped out. Battery arrived with a 55% charge, now going to watch a movie on battery power to run it down…

impuse - Contestar

Completed the swap out with no problems. Only tedious bit is chiseling off the old adhesive from the case after removing the battery. But if you soak it in solvent (per the instructions) and then lift up at the edge you can use your fingers and pull all the goo up in one satisfying motion.

Thanks to iFixit for not having to give even more to Apple Inc.

Tim Goodsall - Contestar

Instructions were perfect. And thanks to barak as well for the ‘rice in a sock’ idea.

desturtz - Contestar

Hey all, i followed the instruction and it worked pretty well for me. I just have noticed, once my macbook started again, that it doesnt find any documents, applications or any other file via spotlight function and via the search function in the finder anymore. i tried already to reset the spotlight search by adding and deleting HD to the privacy of the spolight search, but that didnt work for me. does anybody know how to solve this problem. I try to avoid to set up my mac via recovery disc.

thanks, pete

peter.anton - Contestar

This worked for me!

Open Terminal

Show hidden files in finder with defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles YES

Hold the 'Option/alt' key, then right click on the Finder icon in the dock and click Relaunch

Navigate in finder to the root volume (Macintosh HD)

Delete .metadata_never_index

Delete immediately in Trash

In Terminal: sudo mdutil -i on /

peter.anton -

took me 45 minutes and I did not purchase any of the tools or fluid, just used lolly sticks and patience, Brough the battery from china for £30 with the special screwdrivers needed.

james essex - Contestar

Thank you Sam, again. I replaced this battery yesterday in my son’s computer. It was my “practice” before daring to touch my own computer. It went without a glitch. This is a clear and comprehensive guide. I am a 67 yo retired accountant and had never done anything like this before. Today I did my computer (early 2013) again with no problems. I feel empowered!

maria longo - Contestar

Thank you, just changed the battery using ifixit’s kit. Only problem i have is that i have tried to follow the instruction to calibrate the battery however, when my mac got to 15% it went to sleep and I had to connect the power cord. I tried to disconnect it again and it went again to sleep. So I can’t really follow the calibration guide since the computer doesn’t turn off because it runs out of battery, instead it goes to sleep.

Max Ime - Contestar

Reseted the smc seems to work fine now. Also, i’ve used a different method to replace the battery which seemed much easier to me. I have used a string as a saw instead of the provided cards. I was able to smoothly and quickly remove each cell

Max Ime -

It was pretty easy to follow the guide; everything went well.

Zsolt Safrany - Contestar

Hi all. I changed the battery, most difficult was remove battery. When I start the laptop I noticed the trackpad doesn’t work, fun is working quickly ( since first minute and even cold) and everything run slowly. Do you know what can I do?. many thanks

Niko Las - Contestar

Worked perfectly! However looking at the design of the laptop looks like it’s not necessary to remove all the components like the guide tell you to do, the battery can be disconnected at step 2!

is there a reason why everything must be removed before removing the battery? Is it the danger of acetone affecting the electronic components?

Amritaansh Verma - Contestar

I just replaced the battery, It was a &&^&^$^ anxiety driven process. The screws that came with the battery were the hardest to deal with but I kinda said &&^& it and left it alone. The acetone is terrifying but with paper towels and working very slowly it was possible to get the battery out, the glue out and not experience any issues. Keyboard is fine, I’m waiting now to charge then kill the replacement. Will update if I have any issues.

Diana Gutierrez - Contestar

Akkuwechsel ging mit der Anleitung und dem iFixit-Akku-Kit (MacBook Pro 13" Retina late 2013) sehr gut, habe zusätzlich zum Aceton “gewachste Zahnseide” zum Lösen der Akkusteile benutzt.

Battery change went very well with the manual and the iFixit battery kit (MacBook Pro 13 "Retina late 2013), in addition to the acetone "waxed dental floss" used to release the battery parts.

Markus Illian - Contestar

Hello, my battery is completely dead. It’s on 0% and unable to be charged. (Charger is working properly) According to battery health apps, it has 0 mAH. The status of the battery is replace now. When the status was on “service battery” the macbook was performing normally. But now it’s extremely slow. Should i do something before trying to install a new battery?

Kristian - Contestar

@alphaumi I’d replace that battery ASAP.

Jeff Suovanen -

I have just replaced my battery. It was way easier than i have expected, but one should follow the steps carefully. With the new battery the laptop is way faster as well!

Kristian -

Brilliant - done in 50 mins ‘con calma’ saved £450 on price quoted by apple.

Oliver Craig - Contestar

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