Introducción
Usa esta guía para remover y reemplazar las cámaras dobles traseras en el iPhone 8 Plus. El ensamblaje de la cámara trasera consiste de dos módulos individuales: una cámara con ángulo ancho y una cámara telefoto.
Nota: Esta guía te enseña a separar los cables de pantalla y remover el ensamblaje de pantalla para tener mejor acceso a las cámaras traseras—sin embargo, es posible remover y reemplazar las cámaras traseras con los cables de pantalla todavía conectados. Los lectores avanzados pueden saltear la desconexión de la pantalla para ahorrar tiempo, siempre y cuando la pantalla esté correctamente apoyada y los cables de pantalla no estén dañados.
Qué necesitas
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Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.
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Quita los dos tornillos pentalobe de 3.5 mm del borde inferior del iPhone.
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Mide 3 mm desde la punta, y marca dicha distancia sobre la púa de apertura usando un rotulador permanente.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.
No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?
Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.
For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you
Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!
Will the phone still work if the sensor assembly on the back of the screen is damaged?
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Coloca varias cintas sobrepuestas de cinta de embalaje transparente sobre la pantalla del iPhone hasta que toda la cara este cubierta.
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Si no puedes hacer que la ventosa de succión se pegue en los siguientes pasos, dobla una pieza fuerte de cinta (como cinta de aislar) en un pequeño maneral y levanta la pantalla con eso.
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Herramienta utilizada en este paso:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Los tres próximos pasos muestran el funcionamiento del Anti-Clamp, una herramienta que diseñamos para facilitar el procedimiento de apertura. Si no estás utilizando el Anti-Clamp, avanza tres pasos hacia abajo para seguir un método alternativo.
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Tira de la manija azul hacia atrás para desbloquear las abrazaderas del Anti-Clamp.
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Desliza los brazos sobre el borde izquierdo o derecho de tu iPhone.
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Coloca las ventosas justo encima del botón de inicio en la pantalla, una en el frente y otra en la parte posterior.
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Aprieta las ventosas para aplicar succión en la zona deseada.
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Empuja la manija azul hacia delante para fijar las abrazaderas.
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Gira la manija 360 grados en sentido horario o hasta que las ventosas comiencen a apretarse.
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Asegúrate de que las ventosas permanezcan alineadas entre si. Si comienzan a desalinearse, afloja ligeramente las ventosas y vuelve a alinear los brazos.
Bien, y a-t-il des boutiques spécialisées elle-même se charger de l’opération de changement de l’écran de l’iPhone 8 plus je suis un littéraire. Je renonce à le faire moi-même mais j’assume les frais le prix de l’écran. Merci de répondre dans un commentaire suivant Cordialement
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Calienta un iOpener y colócalo entre las abrazaderas del Anti-Clamp.
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Dobla el iOpener para que se apoye sobre el borde inferior del iPhone.
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Espera un minuto para que el adhesivo se suelte y se abra un hueco.
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Inserta una púa de apertura debajo de la pantalla cuando el Anti-Clamp cree un hueco lo suficientemente grande.
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Omite los siguientes dos pasos.
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Utiliza un secador de pelo o prepara un iOpener y aplícalo sobre el borde inferior del iPhone durante unos 90 segundos para ablandar el adhesivo que hay debajo.
6/14/23 I did this repair but used a heat gun on low for 60 seconds. This allowed me to open the case as the instructions say, but in the end the Home button failed. I probably over heated it. I used this "go around" for a virtual Home button. I don't care about touch ID:
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Aplica una ventosa a mitad inferior del panel frontal. justo por arriba del botón de inicio.
Using just the single suction cup that is included in the battery replacement kit probably wouldn’t open the device. An iOpener and an iSlack should be the recommended method. However, you can get it open with just the single suction cup and iOpener, but does take a lot of time.
Get an iOpener and iSlack with the battery replacement kit.
I used a flat x-acto (#18) blade knife tool to gently pry back the screen enough to allow me to insert the pick near the bottom corner. I then worked the pick under the screen as mentioned in steps 5 & 6 below then. This worked really well for me.
I used the suction cup without heating the phone - the adhesive came away quite easily without applying any heat. Maybe due to age of phone (nearly 4 years old). Worth trying.
My screen was very shattered, and was quite hard to get suction, as my tape was very low quality. However, after pulling it up a little bit, I was able to insert a regular razor blade into the very small gap and used that as a lever.
Oh my goodness! Don't do that again. You can definitely damage something in the phone if you use a sharp metal razor blade..
cytur -
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Jala hacia arriba la ventosa con presión constante y firme para crear un pequeña grieta entre el panel frontal y caja trasera.
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Introduce una púa de apertura u otra herramienta de apertura en la grieta unos pocos milímetros.
After multiple tries and using a very hot iOpener, it will not open.
In sheer frustration, I pulled out my trusty pocket knife and managed to lift the bottom of the screen slightly, but in the process, cracked the glass from the bottom to the home button. The case is open now.
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Desliza tu púa alrededor de la esquina y por arriba del borde izquierdo del teléfono, moviéndola hacia los botones de control de volumen e interruptor de silencio, rompiendo el adhesivo que sujeta la pantalla en su lugar.
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Deténte cerca de la esquina superior izquierda de la pantalla.
Do not go over the top otherwise you can crack the screen. Sadly happened to me :(
The instruction should be:
“Stop near BUT BEFORE REACHING the top left corner of the display”
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Vuelve a introducir tu herramienta en la esquina derecha inferior del teléfono y deslízala alrededor de la esquina y hacia arriba del lado derecho del teléfono para separar el adhesivo.
I had really good luck using a hairdryer on some of the more stubborn portions of adhesive.
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Desliza una púa de apertura por debajo de la pantalla a lo largo del borde superior del teléfono para soltar el último resto del adhesivo.
Be very careful at this step. The glass at the top will break very easy when the display is lifted too much.
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Abre el iPhone girando la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la contratapa de un libro.
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Apoya la pantalla contra algo para que se quede parada mientras trabajas en el teléfono.
Das “links” ist auf dem Foto rechts.
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Remueve los cuatro tornillos Phillips (JIS) que sujetan el soporte de cable de pantalla inferior a la placa lógica:
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Dos tornillos de 1.3 mm
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Un tornillo de 1.4 mm
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Un tornillo de 2.7 mm
The Phillips screwdriver bit is the PH000. The measurement refers to the screw length.
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Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector de batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
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Dobla el cable conector hacia arriba suavemente para prevenir que haga accidentalmente contacto con el zócalo y proporcione potencia al teléfono durante tu reparación.
When I reassembled the iPhone 8 Plus, I had to plug it into a Lightning cable to wake it up (just pushing power button wasn’t sufficient).
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Usa la punta de un spudge o la uña para desconectar el conector grande inferior de pantalla levantándolo directamente de su zócalo.
I got hold of a iPhone 8 Plus with cracked screen that I am planning to fix.
Here is my problem:
When I tried to take out the screen from my phone, (step 15-18) I was curious about the new screen, so I tried to connect it. It was completely dead! Then I tried the old cracked one, and suddenly that was dead to! This is a phone that some fool has been inside earlier and changed battery, but I suspect he has done some more really stupid things. The Taptic Engine is living its own life and vibrating every time I slightly touch the home button. (I have a new Taptic Engine) The phone is also full of dust and small particles that does not belong there. One tri-point Y000 screw (step 18) is even missing! Now the biggest problem is that both screens are black! I know the phone is on, because I hear voice command speak when I turn on the power. The screen worked before I tried to change it? And one last thing: My new LCD screen came with new flex cables. Is it possible to switch over, so I can use the old ones?
Hi,
Is your problem solved?
Be careful of damaging MOSFETs by the LH side of the large lower display cable. After replacing the battery and turning the device on, the phone showed low charge and didn't have a charging symbol even after plugging into multiple cables and chargers. Turns out I had damaged the logic board attempting to disconnect the connector.
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Desconectar el segundo conector inferior de cable de pantalla, directamente atrás del que has desconectado en el paso previo.
I used the other end of the spudger on this connector and it seemed to work a little better for me. I came in from underneath the top-right edge instead of the bottom right.
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Remueve los dos tornillos Y000 tri-point que sujetan el soporte encima del conector de ensamblaje del sensor de panel frontal:
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Un tornillo de 1.0 mm
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Un tornillo de 1.2 mm
una vite da 1mm e due viti da 1.2 mm???
Ciao Matteo! Grazie per l’osservazione. Ho appena modificato il testo :) La traduzione è aperta a tutti. Hai quindi la possibilità di fare le tue suggestione direttamente nel testo e sei il benvenuto se vuoi usare di questa possibilità nel futuro. Grazie ancora per la vigilanza! Saluti, Claire
The tool kit does include a 1.0 or1.2mm screwdriver! How am I supposed to remove those screws?
Bought the screwdriver that supposedly fits these screws and it still doesn’t work.
My bracket looks different. Can’t get these screws out.
kit came with wrong bit. i received 2x P02 (penta tips) and no tri point y000.
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Usa la punta de un spudger o uña para desconectar el conector del ensamblaje de sensor de panel frontal de su zócalo.
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Remueve el ensamblaje de pantalla.
Should there be a step somewhere in here to point out when to remove the blue plastic from the new iFixit screen?
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Remueve los dos tornillos Y000 que sujetan el soporte de la tapa del conector de la cámara trasera.
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Un tornillo de 1.4 mm.
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Un tornillo de 1.4 mm no ferroso
the standoff screw underneath the left screw came loose together and was impossible to detach from the screw. In a later step (49) it was possible to remove it together with the antenna flex cable
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Remueve los dos tornillos que sujetan la placa de la tapa del módulo de la cámara trasera.
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Un tornillo de 1.8 mm Phillips
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Un tornillo separados de 2.7 mm no ferroso.
Yeah, the flathead screw driver is not really a good option for the standoff screwdriver bit. I managed to remove the standoff screws easily enough, but replacing them with the flathead was laborious.
Does the second screw (nonferrous standoff 2.7mm) actually exist? My phone has not had any repairs before but did not have this screw, and the previous step says there's a Y000 screw (for the bracket) in what appears to be exactly the same location as this step says the standoff screw is.
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Remueve el ensamblaje de cámara trasera.
Using the small supplied none-conductive baggy you get in your parts repair kit, it is generally advised to put your camera sensor in said bag to protect it from dust or other debris as this will not come off the sensor and will mean another repair where one could have been avoided.
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Compara tu parte nueva de reemplazo con la parte original— quizá tengas que transferir componentes restantes o remover adhesivos de la parte trasera de la parte de nueva antes de instalar.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos mencionados arriba en orden inverso.
Lleva tus residuos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje electrónico.
¿La reparación no salió como planeabas? Fíjate en nuestra comunidad de Respuestas para ayuda de resolución de problemas.
Compara tu parte nueva de reemplazo con la parte original— quizá tengas que transferir componentes restantes o remover adhesivos de la parte trasera de la parte de nueva antes de instalar.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos mencionados arriba en orden inverso.
Lleva tus residuos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje electrónico.
¿La reparación no salió como planeabas? Fíjate en nuestra comunidad de Respuestas para ayuda de resolución de problemas.
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5 comentarios
Worked Amazing! I feel so accomplished doing this myself! Thanks for the Step By Step guide! I can’t wait to fix something else now!
I completed this repair on this iPhone 8 Plus after I damaged the cameras myself. I managed to succeed in chipping off all of the back glass panel of the phone successfully. Removing this shattered panel was the hardest iPhone repair job I have ever done. At the very end, I attempted to wiggle off the metal housing over the cameras that was originally part of the back glass. After removing this housing, I discovered that I had damaged both cameras. In retrospect I should have removed the cameras from the inside of the phone before prying off this housing.
The back glass removal is the most impossible task for this phone and should be attempted only by crazy people with an appetite for pain. I will document with a “repair story.” —CW
Any idea on what the cable running beside the camera to the right is for? Mine is broken and can’t seem to figure out what it is for.
I'm also wondering what that cable running beside the camera to the casing is used for. I can't find the correct screw to fix the cable to the casing as I have purchased a replacement cable and want to install it correctly. What screw dimensions and type of screw fits that cable to the casing?
ahjohl -
Does anyone know if you can 'extend' the camera connector cables? I'm trying to make a bespoke CCTV system from old iPhone I have lying around using manythings...
what do I do about super stripped screws?
Ean Palacios - Contestar
I’m sorry, your comment slipped past my radar earlier. For future fixers that might see this and ask the same question, you can check out our stripped screw guide for some detailed advice.
Adam O'Camb -
Do you need a toolkit like the essential toolkit
Adam Palmer - Contestar
Hi Adam. Having a tool kit with all of the listed parts above is best. The screw heads are very small and each set of screws needs a very specific type of driver to remove them without stripping any of them.
Kyle Luksa -