Saltar al contenido principal

Introducción

Usa esta guía para reemplazar el botón de encendido.

  1. Antes de desmontar tu iPhone, descarga la batería por debajo del 25%. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede incendiarse y / o explotar si se pincha accidentalmente.
    • Antes de desmontar tu iPhone, descarga la batería por debajo del 25%. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede incendiarse y / o explotar si se pincha accidentalmente.

    • Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.

    • Retira los dos tornillos Pentalobe P2 de 3.6mm junto al conector Lightning.

    I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.

    estebanfallasf - Contestar

    I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.

    Margaret Patterson - Contestar

    Before you even start: get the iOpener or hairdryer out. You’ll need it

    GPZ - Contestar

    If a lightning connector won’t provide a charge or needs to be wiggled carefully to provide a charge, power off the device, then try using precision tweezers to scrape the innermost wall of the lightning jack in a pinching motion to check for lint buildup. Pocket lint or other debris can accumulate inside the jack, compacting each time a cable is inserted. This can prevent a lightning cable from seating fully. Clearing the lint may restore functionality without replacing the part.

    Andrew Dolan - Contestar

    A few hints:

    * heating up the phone works great. I used a heating pad that you put in the microwave to heat sports injuries.

    * also, I made a sheet to help you keep track of the screws as you remove them. Print out the page, then place double sided tape below each color-coded listing of screws, and stick the screws to the tape as you disassemble. This helps prevent losing the screws and keeps track of what screws are what for easier reassembly. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pLSvKvB...

    Paul Faulstich - Contestar

    Additional hints, for anyone who needs them:

    * stick the screws to the tape in the same positions as they are shown in the guide. This will make it easier to identify them during reassembly.

    * if the screws get mixed together, the ‘mm’ (millimetre, millimeter) measurements given in the guide can be used to identify them. Compare the lengths of the threaded shafts to each other to determine which screw is which.

    Friendly Advice -

  2. Los siguientes dos pasos demuestran el uso de iSclack, una gran herramienta para la segura apertura de el iPhone 6 Plus que recomendamos a cualquiera que haga mas de una reparación.  Si no estás usando el iSclack, salta dos pasos Si el medidor de profundidad de plástico está conectado en el centro del iSclack, sácalo ahora, no es necesario para teléfonos más grandes como el iPhone 6 Plus Cierra la manija en el iSclack, abriendo las mandíbulas de la ventosa.
    • Los siguientes dos pasos demuestran el uso de iSclack, una gran herramienta para la segura apertura de el iPhone 6 Plus que recomendamos a cualquiera que haga mas de una reparación. Si no estás usando el iSclack, salta dos pasos

    • Si el medidor de profundidad de plástico está conectado en el centro del iSclack, sácalo ahora, no es necesario para teléfonos más grandes como el iPhone 6 Plus

    • Cierra la manija en el iSclack, abriendo las mandíbulas de la ventosa.

    • Coloca la parte inferior de su iPhone entre las ventosas.

    • Coloca la copa de succión superior del iSclack contra la pantalla, cerca del botón de inicio.

    • Abre las asas para cerrar las mandíbulas del iSclack. Centrar las ventosas y presionarlas firmemente en la parte superior e inferior del iPhone.

    • Si tu pantalla o cristal trasero esta muy dañado, cubrirlo con una capa de cinta transparente pude que ayude que las ventosas se adhieran. El iSclack también incluye dos piezas de cinta para este propósito.

  3. Sostén tu iPhone firmemente y cierra el mango del iSclack para separar las ventosas, tirando del panel frontal hacia arriba desde la carcasa trasera. El iSclack está diseñado para abrir tu iPhone lo suficiente para separar las piezas con seguridad, pero no lo suficiente para dañar alguno de los cables de la pantalla.
    • Sostén tu iPhone firmemente y cierra el mango del iSclack para separar las ventosas, tirando del panel frontal hacia arriba desde la carcasa trasera.

    • El iSclack está diseñado para abrir tu iPhone lo suficiente para separar las piezas con seguridad, pero no lo suficiente para dañar alguno de los cables de la pantalla.

    • Despega las ventosas de tu iPhone.

    • Omite los siguientes tres pasos y continúa en el Paso 7.

    It's very difficult if you want to remove a cracked screen. The suction cup and Islack won't work. Does anybody know a better way?

    Herbert - Contestar

    I use Scotch Tape, shipping tape. Put a couple of layers over the crack screen. That seals it so you can use the suction cup to remove the front of phone.

    Michael Wallace -

    I used the plastic pry took and the spudger to open it up. I place the pry tool dead center below the home button and was able to put some pressure around the seam and the top popped up enough for me to get the spudger in there to hold it open and then work my way around with the plastic pry tool.

    johnoconna -

    Apply clear packaging tape to screen. Then suction cup to that.

    Tracey -

    Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen

    Abigail Cherry - Contestar

    I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

    Mike - Contestar

  4. Si no tienes un iSclack, usa una ventosa para separar el panel frontal:
    • Si no tienes un iSclack, usa una ventosa para separar el panel frontal:

    • Presiona la ventosa sobre la pantalla, justo arriba del botón de inicio.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa está presionada firmemente sobre la pantalla para tener un sellado hermético.

    • Si tu pantalla esta muy dañada, cubrirla con una capa de cinta transparente pueda que permita a la ventosa adherirse. Alternativamente, una cinta muy fuerte puede ser usada en lugar de la ventosa. Si todo lo demás falla, puedes pegar la ventosa a la pantalla rota.

    Avec la ventouse, l’ouverture est brutale, tout s’est déclipsé d’un seul coup. Faire attention.

    Paul Briffaut - Contestar

    English Please!

    tom mozeleski -

    With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)

    Steve Schlotter - Contestar

    May need to burp the sticker before it sticks. Need to let the air out. Once Idid that, no problem. Except it was still hard to get the cover to start up.

    Patricia Tucker - Contestar

    Don’t waste your time with the suction cup - it doesn’t work! insert the blade of a box cutter just below the lower screen edge below the home button and gently pry just enough to start cracking the seal.

    Stephen Smith - Contestar

  5. Mientras sostienes el iPhone hacia abajo con una mano, tire hacia arriba de la ventosa para separar ligeramente el conjunto del panel frontal de la caja trasera.
    • Mientras sostienes el iPhone hacia abajo con una mano, tire hacia arriba de la ventosa para separar ligeramente el conjunto del panel frontal de la caja trasera.

    • Tómate tu tiempo y aplica una fuerza firme y constante. El ensamblaje de la pantalla es mucho más ajustado que la mayoría de los dispositivos.

    • Con una herramienta de apertura de plástico, comienza a hacer palanca con cuidado hacia abajo la caja trasera, alejándola del conjunto de la pantalla, mientras continúas tirando hacia arriba con la ventosa.

    • Hay varios clips que unen el ensamblaje del panel frontal a la carcasa posterior, por lo que es posible que necesites usar una combinación de la ventosa y la herramienta de apertura de plástico para liberar el conjunto del panel frontal.

    Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

    Thomas - Contestar

    watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

    Aaron Fitzpatrick - Contestar

    Note: this comment is written for the iPhone 6 Plus, but may also apply to other models of iPhone.

    Disassembly:

    The clips in the rear case attach to small slotted shapes under the edges of the display assembly, and these attachment points alternate from one side to the other. Moving from bottom to top, gently pulling the rear case away at these points will help to separate the two halves without using too much force.

    Reassembly:

    Ensure that the plastic clips along the top edge of the front panel (shown in step 8) are fitted properly inside the rear case, then gently press the display assembly into the rear case at these points, moving from top to bottom. There may be a small click sound as the clips in the rear case engage with the slots on the display assembly, and the rear case should fit flush with the edges of the display assembly.

    Friendly Advice - Contestar

    This was challenging. For me, the suction cup could only create a tiny bit of motion and at first, no actual gap at all. You might have to pull the suction cup away from the base a few times just to loosen things up a tiny bit. Eventually, I got my fingernail in, and then after a few minutes got the plastic tool in.

    Also, use the plastic tool to gently pry along the sides of the phone once there’s light there. I was afraid of using too much leverage and breaking the screen as per the other comments, but starting at the bottom and then going around the sides slowly worked for me.

    FixingMyiPhone - Contestar

  6. Tira de la protuberancia de plástico para liberar el sello de vacío en la ventosa. Retira la ventosa del ensamblaje de la pantalla.
    • Tira de la protuberancia de plástico para liberar el sello de vacío en la ventosa.

    • Retira la ventosa del ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    There is an adhesive strip all along the edge between the top and bottom of the phone. Is that just adhesive or is it wire of some sort?

    Larry Ingerling - Contestar

    @lingerling The adhesive strip was introduced on the iPhone 6s and 6s Plus (one model year later than what’s shown on this page). Guides specific to each model can be found here—be sure to use the correct one for your particular phone. And yes, just adhesive, no wires. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

  7. Tira del extremo del botón de inicio del ensamblaje del panel frontal para separarlo de la caja posterior, utilizando la parte superior del teléfono como una bisagra. Abre la pantalla en un ángulo de aproximadamente 90º y apoyala contra algo para mantenerla levantada mientras está trabajando con el teléfono. Agrega una banda de goma para mantener la pantalla de forma segura en su lugar mientras trabaja. Esto evita una tensión excesiva en los cables de la pantalla.
    • Tira del extremo del botón de inicio del ensamblaje del panel frontal para separarlo de la caja posterior, utilizando la parte superior del teléfono como una bisagra.

    • Abre la pantalla en un ángulo de aproximadamente 90º y apoyala contra algo para mantenerla levantada mientras está trabajando con el teléfono.

    • Agrega una banda de goma para mantener la pantalla de forma segura en su lugar mientras trabaja. Esto evita una tensión excesiva en los cables de la pantalla.

    • También, puede usar una lata de bebida sin abrir para sostener la pantalla.

    Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.

    Español:

    Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.

    txaukos - Contestar

    At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

    If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English

    Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.

    Perdón por mi mal inglés

    txaukos - Contestar

    your English isn’t the issue, it’s the proposed 60 degree opening space that doesn’t allow for the removal of the screws of the mounting plate where the connectors connect to the main pcb…

    if can make a recommendation here; it helps if the can is full and not refrigerated, the weight helps in keeping the phone where it should stay without adding additional tension to the ‘flex’ ribbon cable. it’s called flex for a reason people, if your breaking these the phones already been overheated too much, the cables become brittle and should also be replaced. i replaced my battery without disconnecting the screen, at 90 degrees with a rubber band around an empty beer can. pierced the orig. battery and caused sparks. albeit, i wasn’t in a hurry and it took me a good 30+ minutes, removal of the battery and stickers is by far the most challenging, especially when NOT disconnecting the screen…

    it’s not a race, take your time. move slowly but precisely with forethought and persistent force…

    circuitbender 477 - Contestar

    Werkt dit ook voor iPhone 7(plus)?

    Christina Pegtel - Contestar

    Werkt dit hetzelfde voor iPhone 7 (plus)?

    Christina Pegtel - Contestar

  8. Varios clips a lo largo del borde superior del panel frontal forman una bisagra parcial, lo que permite que el conjunto del panel frontal se abra como un libro. Durante el montaje, alinee los clips justo debajo del borde superior de la carcasa trasera. A continuación, desliza el panel frontal hacia arriba hasta que su borde superior quede alineado con el de la carcasa posterior.
    • Varios clips a lo largo del borde superior del panel frontal forman una bisagra parcial, lo que permite que el conjunto del panel frontal se abra como un libro.

    • Durante el montaje, alinee los clips justo debajo del borde superior de la carcasa trasera. A continuación, desliza el panel frontal hacia arriba hasta que su borde superior quede alineado con el de la carcasa posterior.

    I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

    anthonyspampinato - Contestar

  9. Retira los siguientes tornillos Phillips del soporte del conector de la batería:
    • Retira los siguientes tornillos Phillips del soporte del conector de la batería:

    • Un tornillo de 2.3 mm

    • Un tornillo de 3.1 mm

    for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000

    Michael Adams - Contestar

    I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.

    Allen Matheson - Contestar

    stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove

    Matthew Gao - Contestar

    The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.

    David Davis - Contestar

    Same issue. Could not remove the screw. Dead in the water.

    Tiffany - Contestar

    Agree with above comments regarding the supplied Phillips bit. It is not the correct size.

    Use a Phillips #000.

    bobgottner - Contestar

    Phillips #000 is what’s included in the kit. As others mentioned above, firm downward pressure is key. The phone is not that delicate; just press hard and crank it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Is this step necessary ?\

    Asianay - Contestar

    @asianay0129 Yes, disconnecting the battery is necessary. You can sometimes get away with skipping it, at the risk of destroying something important and potentially bricking your phone. Not a wise gamble for the sake of skipping two screws.

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

  10. Retira el soporte del conector de la batería de metal del iPhone.
    • Retira el soporte del conector de la batería de metal del iPhone.

    Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.

    dwtan - Contestar

    That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.

    Evan Noronha -

    It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull

    Al Taylor - Contestar

  11. Uss una uña limpia o el borde de una herramienta de apertura para levantar suavemente el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica
    • Uss una uña limpia o el borde de una herramienta de apertura para levantar suavemente el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica

    • Ten cuidado de solo levantar el conector de la batería, y no el enchufe de la placa lógica. Si se levanta en el zócalo de la placa lógica, puedes romper el conector por completo.

    you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure

    Michael Adams - Contestar

    It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily

    Al Taylor - Contestar

    J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.

    Paul Briffaut - Contestar

    Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.

    Kenneth Gilbert - Contestar

    I couldn’t use the iFixit blue opening tool to pry that battery connector. I used the top of the black spudger near the hole where the 3.1mm screw was in step 9-10 to easily pry it open!

    Alyssa Sayuki - Contestar

    The blue plastic board breaker can easily cause damage here. Professionals would recommend using the human fingernail as the ideal tool for this job.

    Jessa Jones - Contestar

  12. Retira los siguientes tornillos Phillips que sujetan el soporte del cable del conjunto del panel frontal:
    • Retira los siguientes tornillos Phillips que sujetan el soporte del cable del conjunto del panel frontal:

    • Tres tornillos de 1.2 mm

    • Un tornillo de 1.5 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.9 mm

    • No intentes insertar tornillos más largos en los orificios de tornillo marcados en rojo. Hacerlo puede provocar daños irreparables en la placa lógica.

    There's an other panel with one screw in the middle.........

    Herbert - Contestar

    Sounds like you have an iPhone 6s Plus, rather than a 6 Plus. Be sure to use the correct guide! And make sure you’ve ordered the correct part, as they’re not cross-compatible.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.

    cscarlson47shop - Contestar

    I have done the exact same thing. Created a sheet where each screw goes.

    Chris Murphy -

    I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.

    hhandh - Contestar

    Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

    Dany Castillo - Contestar

    Since this guide is for DISPLAY replacement, I don’t see how you can skip the steps for disconnecting and removing the DISPLAY.

    Jim Bateman -

    That's what I was thinking.

    The Wizard - Contestar

    I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

    mark - Contestar

    I'm having trouble with one screw not wanting to come out. Any suggestions to keep from stripping the head and getting it?

    Patric - Contestar

    which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out

    MONsterHEIT - Contestar

    I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.

    whiteshephard - Contestar

    I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn’t and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.

    Steve Schlotter - Contestar

    I played around with different screwdrivers to get certain screws out. I made sure I wasn’t applying heavy pressure so I wouldn’t strip the head. Apple is crazy for doing this to us lol.

    Anyways invest in a magnetized mat to organize your screws. It was really difficult to keep things organized and still, especially with these tiny screws…

    Jeffrey Robinos - Contestar

    what happens if i forgot to put the ribbon cable shield back on? the phone is now working but i forgot to put the shield back on and i am missing 2 screws. can i leave the shield off?

    Fred ticoman. - Contestar

    @ticoman12 It’ll work without the shield, but the connectors may pop out unexpectedly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just be really careful remembering which screw is which. I drew a quick sketch of the bracket, then put the screws in the relevant places. There’s no way I would have been able to figure them out otherwise - my eyes can’t see the difference between a 1.2 and 1.5mm screw!

    Paul Johnson - Contestar

    The most fiddly part of the job.

    Much easier if you put the screwdriver head on the screw and then insert it into the opening. The slight magnetism will hold it in place. Don’t fully tighten a screw until all the screws are in place. Much like installing lug nuts on a car.

    GPZ - Contestar

    I also skipped steps 12-18 as Danny had suggested. It made this repair quite easy, so thank you and others for suggesting this. I was also very careful to allow the battery to discharge before starting the process.

    Bruce Platt - Contestar

    I question whether Steps 12-18 (separating the display from the case) is actually necessary? The battery can be removed/replaced with the display connected (but standing upright, as displayed in Step 7.

    Leaving the display attached obviates the most difficult steps (re-connecting the various control ribbons — 3/4 of ‘em!

    I followed this manual completely and the repair was successful. But if I had this to do over, I’d leave the display connected.

    Dana Smith - Contestar

    I skipped the steps 12-18 as well and thank goodness I did so I won’t have to worry about issues with any of the cables.

    my panel is different from what is pictured anyway ‘cause I have one screw in the middle like what Herbert said on the first comment.

    Maria Filamor-Robinson - Contestar

    I realized too late just how handy the magnetic mat is that they have in their shop. So I organized the screws with a piece of clear packing tape. On the smooth side, use a sharpie to draw spacious circles with “R” “O” and “Y” inside each circle to represent the color coded screws and then use the sticky side to keep the screws in place. I found that using the tweezers to take them off the screwdriver helps you stick them head first to the tape better.

    Selena Castillo - Contestar

  13. Retira el soporte del cable del conjunto del panel frontal de la placa lógica.
    • Retira el soporte del cable del conjunto del panel frontal de la placa lógica.

  14. En los próximos cuatro pasos, ten cuidado de hacer palanca solo en los conectores del cable, y no en sus enchufes en la placa lógica. Mientras sigues apoyando el panel frontal, uss una uña o el borde de una herramienta de apertura para desconectar la cámara frontal y el conector del cable del altavoz del auricular.
    • En los próximos cuatro pasos, ten cuidado de hacer palanca solo en los conectores del cable, y no en sus enchufes en la placa lógica.

    • Mientras sigues apoyando el panel frontal, uss una uña o el borde de una herramienta de apertura para desconectar la cámara frontal y el conector del cable del altavoz del auricular.

    Why does the screen need to come off?

    Sterling Coffey (N0SSC) - Contestar

    Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.

    Matthew Goheen - Contestar

    I don't know if anyone will see this but here it goes: for the life of me I can't get the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker connector to seat. Everything else went back together fine but this one connector will not go in. Sometimes it seems like it's in even though it doesn't really pop in and it'll kinda sit there for a sec and then it pops out.

    Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thank you

    Droopy Caledonia - Contestar

    Try starting at one end instead of in the middle. It's to easy to bend a connector and this way, I can get a safe start and go from there.

    Rongwey - Contestar

  15. Desconecta el conector del cable del botón de inicio. Desconecta el conector del cable del botón de inicio.
    • Desconecta el conector del cable del botón de inicio.

  16. Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o volver a conectar el cable en este paso. Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico para desconectar el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla. Al volver a armar su teléfono, el cable de datos de la pantalla puede salirse del conector.
    • Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o volver a conectar el cable en este paso.

    • Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico para desconectar el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla. Al volver a armar su teléfono, el cable de datos de la pantalla puede salirse del conector.

    • Esto puede ocasionar líneas blancas o una pantalla en blanco al volver a encender su teléfono. Si eso sucede, simplemente vuelve a conectar el cable y enciende su teléfono. La mejor manera de encender y apagar tu teléfono es desconectar y volver a conectar el conector de la batería.

    The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

    Gianni - Contestar

    how did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?

    Teresa Trevino - Contestar

    If you’ve been following the guide, you already disconnected it in this step. To reconnect it, just line up the connector and press it into place.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    After replacing the battery, the phone seems dead. I thought it just needed recharging so I left it charging all night. Still dead in the morning. Now I think it might be because the display data cable is off, and I should open the phone and check it. But the battery might be on full power in that case, and they don’t advice to open the phone when battery if full. What can I do?

    Ila Awasthi - Contestar

  17. Finalmente, desconects el conector del cable del digitalizador. Al volver a conectar el cable del digitalizador, no presiones el centro del conector. Presiona un extremo del conector, luego presiona el extremo opuesto. Presionar en el centro del conector puede doblar el componente y causar daños al digitalizador.
    • Finalmente, desconects el conector del cable del digitalizador.

    • Al volver a conectar el cable del digitalizador, no presiones el centro del conector. Presiona un extremo del conector, luego presiona el extremo opuesto. Presionar en el centro del conector puede doblar el componente y causar daños al digitalizador.

    some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

    cscarlson47shop - Contestar

    When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.

    cscarlson47shop - Contestar

    I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?

    mattmay002 -

    Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection

    Karen Jones - Contestar

    I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?

    Henry A -

    could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.

    Charles - Contestar

    To ++mattmay002++  Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.

    Robert Liles - Contestar

    I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine

    Albert Einstein - Contestar

    Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.

    richard - Contestar

    Reseating these connectors on reassembly is definitely the most difficult part of this repair. It took me several attempts before the lowermost connector would seat properly and I did accidentally bend it slightly in the process. Fortunately I was able to get it straight again and get it to click in. The other three went in fine though and no lasting damage seems to have been done.

    Andy Gibbons - Contestar

    Another thing - These cables can become overlapped in the wrong way and make you think they are in a different order than they should be. Eg. it’s easy to mix up the ones from step 15 and 17. You can actually unravel the cables and re-layer them on top of each other in any order, so remember this! They look like they’re one solid mass but they’re not.

    domarius - Contestar

    I never removed the last digitizer connctor. I removed the first three connectors, left the screen propped at 90 deg tied to a box and removed the battery, there is minimal movement. In fact when I reattached the connectors, only the first and maybe second connector feels taut, so it’s necessary to only remove the first connector if you can be gentle with it. Less headache. And my guess why so many people had issues is that micro dust gets into the connectors and cause connection loss. You be surprised how little dust can cause havoc.

    darrcc - Contestar

    And forgot one thing, keep a can of air duster woth you to remove as must dust as you can see. A camera air blower will also do nice.

    darrcc - Contestar

    I haven’t removed my screen in past battery replacements, I found it easier. However, this time I followed the instructions because my old battery was very stuck, and I needed the screen gone to get the battery out…

    When I replaced the screen, at first it wouldn’t even boot/start up. (Yes, I inserted my own testing step, as someone here suggested, before final reassembly).

    The screen would just show a fuzzy image, and the board that all the cables attach to would heat up, then it would turn itself off. I tried reconnecting them carefully 3 times, and even made sure to get a little “click”, all to no avail.

    The final try, I used my fingernail to really press down on the back side of the digitizer cable. I heard more clicking, though I thought I might be tearing the cable too. With nothing left to lose, I continued across the back, and heard several more clicking/tearing sounds.

    This worked, and it booted after that. It still had white lines, but those faded away overnight.

    Morgan Giddings - Contestar

    About the digitizer connector: its flat cable is so short that the when I attempted to seat the next connector, its flat cable pressed on the digitizer cable, which can pull on the connector and dislodge it. That happened several times for me before success.

    Robert Bernard 27 Nov 19

    Robert H Bernard - Contestar

    Nous n’apercevons pas bien les nappes et l’ordre dans lesquelles elles doivent être replacer

    Patrick AZOULAY - Contestar

  18. Retira el conjunto del panel frontal de la caja trasera.
    • Retira el conjunto del panel frontal de la caja trasera.

    Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)

    Marvin Ballard - Contestar

    How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?

    Shamil Bhatti -

    The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)

    jeffxtechs - Contestar

    I think you mean Step 8 :)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you disconnect the battery

    I tried it once and

    Brian - Contestar

    And what? I tried it once and here’s a million dollars?

    Oh I get it… they got him! :(

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlznqpBg...

    domarius -

    When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.

    GERARD SZAREK - Contestar

    Be really careful with the step after this. Do not commence until you have read all the comments. You need to get a good hold of the plastic strips preferably before they double over on themselves. You have to avoid puncturing the battery at all costs. Slowness and caution here will save you a lot of long term pain.

    Laura Houghton - Contestar

  19. Despega el primer adhesivo de la batería desde la esquina inferior derecha.
    • Despega el primer adhesivo de la batería desde la esquina inferior derecha.

    • Usa tus dedos o unas pinzas sin punta. Hay que tener mucho cuidado cuando se trabaja cerca de la batería; perforar los iones de litio puede liberar sustancias peligrosas y provocar fuego.

    Ça été pour moi la partie la plus difficile du démontage de l’iPhone, j’ai cassé les 2 bandes parce que je ne me suis pas bien appliqué pour les décoller avec la pince. Pour m’en sortir,. j’ai tordu la batterie avec les outils de manière à faire apparaître les bandes adhésives pour les enlever sans problème.

    Paul Briffaut - Contestar

    Translation from Google:

    It was for me the most difficult part of the disassembly of the iPhone, I broke the two bands because I did not apply well to take off with the clamp. To get out of it ,. I twisted the battery with the tools so that the adhesive strips appeared to remove them without any problem.

    Ken - Contestar

    Slowly roll the pulled-out adhesive onto itself as you progress, this makes it easier to gauge how much stretch you need to exert on the remaining adhesive, as well as to gain enough grip to hold the adhesive properly. I also nearly tore off the middle one, it’s not due to my rough but because the battery’s black tape (at the area where these adhesive tabs are) caught onto the white adhesive, this must be the reason why most people’s tore off. Mine nearly tore off, so i slow rolled the pulled-out adhesive to catch back the adhesive, and then it’s roll and pull as per normal. With that I took equal precaution for the last one on the left, and it also was caught by the black tape, but since i know it this time, i slowly pulled it free of the black tape first before continuing the roll snd pull. 100% works. Trust me. My battery is slightly warm as i deliberately let it run for a while before i started the disassembly. I doubt it contributes much to the removal but no harm.

    darrcc - Contestar

  20. Intenta mantener las tiras planas y sin arrugas durante este procedimiento. Las tiras arrugadas se pegarán y romperán en vez de salir fácilmente. Lentamente tira de la lengüeta adhesiva alejándote de la batería, hacia la base del iPhone.
    • Intenta mantener las tiras planas y sin arrugas durante este procedimiento. Las tiras arrugadas se pegarán y romperán en vez de salir fácilmente.

    • Lentamente tira de la lengüeta adhesiva alejándote de la batería, hacia la base del iPhone.

    • Permite que la tira se estire antes de jalar más fuerte. Si no la sientes estirar, suelta o se romperá.

    • Jala en ángulo bajo sin golpear la tira adhesivo o cualquier componente a lo largo del borde inferior del teléfono.

    • No presiones la batería al jalar de la tira.

    • La tira se estirará múltiples veces su largo original. Continúa jalando despacio hasta que se libere y salga por debajo de la batería.

    • Si las lengüetas adhesivas de la batería se rompieran durante el proceso de retirada, usa los dedos o unas pinzas romas para recuperar el restante del adhesivo, y continua tirando.

    • Si se rompiera cualquier parte de la tira adhesiva bajo la batería y no se pudiera recuperar, intenta retirar el resto de las tiras, y posteriormente proceder como se indica a continuación.

    I found this much easier than when I did it on a 5S. Not sure if the adhesive strips are different, but I also left the phone on a radiator for a few minutes to help warm the glue. All three then pulled straight out of the phone in one go.

    James - Contestar

    I set my phone on a microfiber cloth on a plate that I had warmed (warm to the touch and that I could hold with my bare hands) in the microwave prior to this step. All 3 strips came off from the bottom and without any trouble.

    armitagd - Contestar

    Excellent tip, thanks.

    vanshdx10 - Contestar

    absolutely impossible unless you heat it. Thank You armitagd, that did the trick.

    chris - Contestar

    All three of mine tore off immediately, I had warmed the phone up too. A bit of a struggle with the tweezers and card method, the battery bent and leaked. Came out okay.

    John Blanchard - Contestar

    I recommend preheating the case before trying to remove each adhesive tape. Also, try wrapping the tape around a pencil as you pull and stretch the tape. I think that such gives a more even pull across the tape than by using one’s fingers.

    GPZ - Contestar

    I even didn’t find an adhesive in my phone, I had to use hairdryer to heat the battery, then remove it gently using the blue plastic and couple of plastic cards

    Mohammed Jitarayah - Contestar

    I can’t stress enough how important it is to preheat the case as others have mentioned. GPZ’s recommendation using a pencil is also pure gold - get enough initial purchase on the adhesive strip so that you can pull it taut and then place your pencil. From there, roll and tag alternately, keeping tension on it so that the adhesive doesn’t wrinkle in the process of removal.

    Jesse Espe - Contestar

    Heating probably works but I slowly pulled out an inch or so and then started rolling it onto my screwdriver. Then I slowly rolled the screwdriver which gave me a good grip and I could go slowly. Took more than 5 min but it got easier and easier. Believe me, getting the battery out using the alternative is very hard, and dangerously easy to penetrate the battery and start a small flame thrower (voice of experience).

    Thomas Hayes - Contestar

  21. Despega la segunda pestaña adhesiva de la batería desde el borde inferior izquierdo de la batería. Nuevamente, jala y estira la lengüeta adhesiva para sacarla de entre la batería y la caja trasera.
    • Despega la segunda pestaña adhesiva de la batería desde el borde inferior izquierdo de la batería.

    • Nuevamente, jala y estira la lengüeta adhesiva para sacarla de entre la batería y la caja trasera.

    • Continúa jalando de la lengüeta adhesiva hasta que liberes completamente de la batería. Si se rompe, intenta de sacar el largo restante y continúa jalando, o procede como se indica abajo.

    This strip broke almost immediately with the first pull. I changed the battery on two iPhone 6 Plus’s. Impossible for me to retrieve broken ends. I moved on to the middle strip with no issue. I then used the blue opening tool to pry the battery up along the lower right edge of the battery (BE CAREFUL!). Once the battery is leveraged up enough to put the tip of the tweezers on the broken strip, grab a piece of the strip and pull it to a point where the removal process can continue as prescribed.

    whiteshephard - Contestar

    Pulling the strip around the corner did not work for me - it broke. I then pulled the middle strip straight out with no issues and the remaining left strip also straight without no problem. I don’t recommend pulling the side strips around the corner of the battery

    Swenja - Contestar

  22. Pela la ultima lengüeta adhesiva del borde inferior de la patria. Tira suavemente de la lengüeta adhesiva de la batería hacia arriba y lejos de la batería, permitiendo que la tira adhesiva se deslice lentamente entre la batería y la carcasa trasera. Coloca una mano sobre la batería mientras la tira final sale, o podría golpear y sacar la batería del iPhone. Continúa tirando hasta que la tira final salga libre del iPhone.
    • Pela la ultima lengüeta adhesiva del borde inferior de la patria. Tira suavemente de la lengüeta adhesiva de la batería hacia arriba y lejos de la batería, permitiendo que la tira adhesiva se deslice lentamente entre la batería y la carcasa trasera.

    • Coloca una mano sobre la batería mientras la tira final sale, o podría golpear y sacar la batería del iPhone.

    • Continúa tirando hasta que la tira final salga libre del iPhone.

    • Si removiste las tres tiras adhesivas con éxito, continua al paso 24. Por el contrario, si el adhesivo se rompe debajo de la batería y no puede ser recuperado, aplica unas gotas de alcohol isopropilico de alta concentración (mayor de 90%) debajo el borde de la batería en el area de las tiras adhesivas rotas.

    • Espera por alrededor de un minuto para que el alcohol debilite el adhesivo. Usa la punta plana de un spudger para levantar gentilmente la batería.

    • No trates de levantar forzosamente la batería. Si es necesario, aplica unas gotas mas de alcohol para debilitar mas el adhesivo. Nunca deformes o perfores la batería con tu herramienta.

    • No apalanques en contra de la placa lógica, o puede que dañes permanentemente tu iPhone. No apalanques debajo de la sección mas alta de la batería, cerca del botón de volumen arriba y el interruptor de silencio, o puede que dañes el cable del control de volumen, el cual esta adherido a la carcasa posterior debajo de la batería.

    • Para métodos alternativos en como despegar la batería, continua con el siguiente paso abajo

    I don’t know why the instructions didn’t mention this, but I pulled it to the left and back, like the previous strip, rather than straight back, to avoid snapping.

    domarius - Contestar

    Pull the adhesive strips at a 45° angle up away from the back or the strip will catch on the bottom board and will tear and break. If it starts to tear, , see if you can grab a spot after the ear and keep pulling. These things are super thin and fragile. Go sloooow when you pull the strips. You are going to pull them a long way, so be patient.

    Ok, so you broke one. Or two. Or all three. Forget the alcohol. Lay your phone face down on a towel and heat it with a hair dryer for two minutes. Flip it over carefully as it will be hot. Insert a plastic spudger under the bottom edge and carefully push/slide it under the battery toward to top of the phone along the strip(s) that are still stuck. DO NOT PRY. You may have to heat it again if it gets hard to push. BE CAREFUL. The battery will bend a bit, but don’t bend it excessively or poke it as it can catch fire when exposed to air. Eventually the battery will pop free. Remove the stuck adhesive and wipe it a bit with alcohol and let it dry.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Contestar

  23. Si la bateria se mantiene pegada a la carcasa trasera, prepara un iOpener o usa una secadora de pelo para calentar la carcasa trasera directamente atrás de la batería.
    • Si la bateria se mantiene pegada a la carcasa trasera, prepara un iOpener o usa una secadora de pelo para calentar la carcasa trasera directamente atrás de la batería.

    • Después, usa una herramienta de plástico para levantar gentilmente la batería.

    • Sobre calentar el iPhone puede incendiar la bateria.

    • Alternativamente, se puede usar un hilo dental para separar la batería de la caja trasera. Una alternativa más fuerte al hilo dental es una cuerda de guitarra desenrollada, como una cuerda 0.009 E de un conjunto de 12 cuerdas.

    • Pasa el hilo dental o la cuerda por debajo de un extremo de la batería y tira de un lado a otro en un movimiento de sierra para separar el adhesivo.

    Hat leider alles nicht geklappt! Musste mit einer Karte und einer Seite sehr lange fummeln und da sich die Folie vom Akku zu sehr mit dem gehäuse verbunden hat. Dadurch hat sie sich gelöst und durch das erwärmen leider auch nicht wirklich besser.

    Jess Sass - Contestar

    Translation from Google:

    Unfortunately, everything did not work out! Had to fumble with a card and a page for a long time and because the film from the battery has too much connected to the housing. As a result, she has solved and by warming unfortunately not really better.

    Ken -

    This step was very difficult as the adhesive strips snapped on me and I had to use a card to make the strips come out by siding the plastic card on the strips as thought I was trying to cut a very thin slice of cheese. (NOTE: DO NOT USE ANYTHING METAL when attempting this method) I actually tried using a metal spudger while trying to remove the adhesive strips and punctured the old battery slightly enough to cause smoke.

    Bryan - Contestar

    iBreak-it: caught the wifi antenna connector when using a guitar string to work the extremely stubborn battery adhesive strips off. Now I need a new wifi antenna. What next?

    Dale Williams - Contestar

    Lay your phone face down on a towel and heat it with a hair dryer for two minutes. Flip it over carefully as it will be hot. Insert a plastic spudger under the bottom edge and carefully push/slide it under the battery toward to top of the phone along the strip(s) that are still stuck. DO NOT PRY. You may have to heat it again if it gets hard to push. BE CAREFUL. The battery will bend a bit, but don’t bend it excessively or poke it as it can catch fire when exposed to air. Eventually the battery will pop free. Remove the stuck adhesive and wipe it a bit with alcohol and let it dry.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Contestar

  24. Retira la batería del iPhone.
    • Retira la batería del iPhone.

    • Si tu batería de reemplazo vino con una manga de plástico, remueve la manga antes de instalar tirando del cable plano.

    • Si hay algún resto de alcohol en el teléfono, limpialo cuidadosamente o deja que seque antes de instalar tu nueva batería.

    • Antes de adherir la batería de repuesto, vuelve a conectar temporalmente el conector de la batería al zócalo de la placa lógica. Esto asegura que la batería está correctamente alineada en su hueco.

    • Adhiere la batería, desconéctala y continúa montando su dispositivo.

    • Si tu batería nueva no tiene adhesivos, consulta esta guía para reemplazar las tiras adhesivas de batería.

    • Realiza un restablecimiento completo después del reensamblaje. Esto puede evitar varios problemas y simplificar la resolución de problemas.

    Once again, ifixit comes through! I bought the battery and the repair kit and the new battery installed and charging. My only hitch was that the three adhesive strips all broke when I pulled on them. I had to heat the bottom of the phone to separate the battery. It was a small moment of panic, but it just required a bit more patience. Thanks for all you do!

    jamesg - Contestar

    Awesome procedure! Thanks. iPhone 6plus working great. Make sure you have quality tools. Thanks again.

    Leo Lambert - Contestar

    Everything went well enough but, I replaced the battery last month and after a while the phone started going into an on-off cycle. It only happens intermittently. At first it would do it only once and stop. Now it does it, still intermittently, but when it happens it keeps cycling on and off. It even does it when it’s charging. If I let it sit, while charging, after several hours it stops doing it again.

    Larry Ingerling - Contestar

    The battery kit didn’t come with adhesives. It seems that I’m not the only one to mention it .

    Nat Turner - Contestar

    Hi there! The battery kit does come with replacement adhesive along with all the tools needed to complete the repair. The part-only battery does not include adhesive, it needs to be purchased separately!

    Sam Goldheart -

    Almost blew up the battery with alot of holes, im traumatized. In the end i did by force and trew it 10 meters away while i were outside.

    Milan - Contestar

    i turned on my phone and the screen is all stripes :(

    Emily M. Curran - Contestar

    Sounds like either the display cable isn't properly connected or it’s been damaged. If all else fails, send it to a professional.

    Rongwey -

    The Ifixit battery comes with new adhesive strips already attached to the battery. Suggest that it’s best to leave the protective acetate over the strips until AFTER the new battery is re-connected and the connector cover is reinstalled (2 screws). Then its easy to remove the acetate cover from the adhesive strips and locate the battery.

    If the battery is stuck in (with the adhesive strips BEFORE the connector is correctly installed it is impossible to adjust the position of the battery to align the connector.

    Dana Smith - Contestar

    My screen doesn’t even show up anything when charging but it makes the sound thought.

    Osvaldo G - Contestar

  25. Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el soporte de cámara trasera.
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el soporte de cámara trasera.

    • Un tornillo Phillips #00 de 1.7 mm

    • Un tornillo Phillips #00 de 2.3 mm

    need to remove the screws third one that's underneath the 2.3

    sirgednosiam - Contestar

  26. Levanta y remueve el soporte de cámara trasera del iPhone.
    • Levanta y remueve el soporte de cámara trasera del iPhone.

  27. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector de cámara trasera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector de cámara trasera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

  28. Con cuidado levanta y remueve la cámara trasera del iPhone.
    • Con cuidado levanta y remueve la cámara trasera del iPhone.

  29. Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el soporte de antena a la caja trasera:
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el soporte de antena a la caja trasera:

    • Un tornillo Phillips #00 de 1.5 mm

    • Un tornillo Phillips #00 de 2.8 mm

  30. Toma el soporte de antena con un par de pinzas y levántalo del iPhone.
    • Toma el soporte de antena con un par de pinzas y levántalo del iPhone.

  31. Con cuidado levanta el conector de antena de la placa lógica con una herramienta de apertura de plástico.
    • Con cuidado levanta el conector de antena de la placa lógica con una herramienta de apertura de plástico.

  32. Toma el conector de antena con un par de pinzas y levántalo con cuidado de su clip de retención en la placa lógica. Toma el conector de antena con un par de pinzas y levántalo con cuidado de su clip de retención en la placa lógica.
    • Toma el conector de antena con un par de pinzas y levántalo con cuidado de su clip de retención en la placa lógica.

  33. Los dos conectores podrían estar acoplados con una única lengüeta adhesiva. Si eso es el caso, entonces se pueden desprender como un par. Desconecta el cable de botón de encendido y los conectores de cable de control de audio de sus respectivos  zócalos en la placa lógica.
    • Los dos conectores podrían estar acoplados con una única lengüeta adhesiva. Si eso es el caso, entonces se pueden desprender como un par.

    • Desconecta el cable de botón de encendido y los conectores de cable de control de audio de sus respectivos zócalos en la placa lógica.

  34. Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan la antena celular superior a la caja trasera:
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan la antena celular superior a la caja trasera:

    • Un tornillo Phillips #00 de 2.8 mm

    • Dos tornillos Phillips #00 de 1. 6 mm

  35. Use un par de pinzas para tomar y remover la antena celular superior del iPhone. Durante el reensamblaje, asegúrate de colocar la pequeña arandela en la esquina superior izquierda  del ensamblaje de antena.
    • Use un par de pinzas para tomar y remover la antena celular superior del iPhone.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, asegúrate de colocar la pequeña arandela en la esquina superior izquierda del ensamblaje de antena.

  36. Levanta el cable del conector del vibrador de su zócalo en la placa lógica con el extremo plano de un spudger.
    • Levanta el cable del conector del vibrador de su zócalo en la placa lógica con el extremo plano de un spudger.

  37. Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el cable de la antena de interconexión de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el cable de la antena de interconexión de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el cable de la antena de interconexión de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

  38. Toma el cable de antena de interconexión con un par de pinzas y con cuidado, desvíalo de su canal en el ensamblaje de altavoz. Toma el cable de antena de interconexión con un par de pinzas y con cuidado, desvíalo de su canal en el ensamblaje de altavoz.
    • Toma el cable de antena de interconexión con un par de pinzas y con cuidado, desvíalo de su canal en el ensamblaje de altavoz.

  39. Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips #00 de 2.5 mm que sujeta el vibrador de la caja trasera.
    • Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips #00 de 2.5 mm que sujeta el vibrador de la caja trasera.

  40. Levanta y remueve el vibrador del iPhone.
    • Levanta y remueve el vibrador del iPhone.

  41. Inserta la herramienta de expulsión de tarjeta SIM o un clip de papel en el pequeño orificio en la bandeja de tarjeta SIM. Presiona para expulsar una bandeja.
    • Inserta la herramienta de expulsión de tarjeta SIM o un clip de papel en el pequeño orificio en la bandeja de tarjeta SIM.

    • Presiona para expulsar una bandeja.

    • Esto podría requerir una cantidad importante de fuerza.

  42. Remueve el ensamblaje de bandeja de tarjeta SIM del iPhone.
    • Remueve el ensamblaje de bandeja de tarjeta SIM del iPhone.

    • Cuando vuelvas a insertar la tarjeta SIM, asegúrate de que esté en la orientación correcta en relación a la bandeja.

  43. Remueve el único tornillo Phillips #00 de 2.8 mm que sujeta el clip de plástico a la placa lógica.
    • Remueve el único tornillo Phillips #00 de 2.8 mm que sujeta el clip de plástico a la placa lógica.

  44. Remueve el único tornillo Phillips #00 de 1.3 mm ubicado contra la parte superior de la caja trasera.
    • Remueve el único tornillo Phillips #00 de 1.3 mm ubicado contra la parte superior de la caja trasera.

  45. Usa un par de pinzas para tomar firmemente el clip de plástico y remuévelo del iPhone.
    • Usa un par de pinzas para tomar firmemente el clip de plástico y remuévelo del iPhone.

  46. Remueve el único tornillo Phillips #00 de 1.6 mm que sujeta el clip de antena a la caja trasera.
    • Remueve el único tornillo Phillips #00 de 1.6 mm que sujeta el clip de antena a la caja trasera.

  47. Con cuidado toma el clip de antena con un par de pinzas y remuévelo del iPhone.
    • Con cuidado toma el clip de antena con un par de pinzas y remuévelo del iPhone.

  48. Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan la placa lógica a la caja trasera.
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan la placa lógica a la caja trasera.

    • Dos tornillos separadores de 2.4 mm

    • Los tornillos separadores se remueven mejor utilizando una punta de destornillador de tornillo separadores de iPhone y una manga de destornillador.

    • Si no hay otra opción, un pequeño destornillados de cabeza plana podrá realizar el trabajo, pero usa precaución extrema para asegurarte que no se resbale y dañe los componentes circundantes.

    • Un tornillo Phillips #00 de 2.1 mm

  49. Con cuidado, levanta, pero no remuevas, la placa lógica desde el borde inferior más cercano al conector Lightning.
    • Con cuidado, levanta, pero no remuevas, la placa lógica desde el borde inferior más cercano al conector Lightning.

  50. No remuevas la placa lógica. En este punto, está todavía conectado a la caja trasera a través del conector de antena.
    • No remuevas la placa lógica. En este punto, está todavía conectado a la caja trasera a través del conector de antena.

    • Continúa con cuidado levantando el lado inferior de la placa lógica hasta que esté en posición vertical.

  51. Con cuidado, coloca la placa lógica dada vuelta con la porción superior descansando contra la caja trasera del iPhone. Usa el  extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector de antena de su zócalo en la parte trasera de la placa lógica.
    • Con cuidado, coloca la placa lógica dada vuelta con la porción superior descansando contra la caja trasera del iPhone.

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector de antena de su zócalo en la parte trasera de la placa lógica.

    An extra step needs to be added. the 1.3 millimeter Phillips head #00 screw retaining the antenna to the frame needs to be removed and then the antenna removed.

    Josh Ginsberg - Contestar

  52. Levanta y remueve la placa lógica del iPhone.
    • Levanta y remueve la placa lógica del iPhone.

  53. Usa un par de pinzas para despegar la única lengüeta adhesiva que reside sobre el botón de encendido y conectores de cable de interruptor rocker/ control de audio. Usa un par de pinzas para despegar la única lengüeta adhesiva que reside sobre el botón de encendido y conectores de cable de interruptor rocker/ control de audio.
    • Usa un par de pinzas para despegar la única lengüeta adhesiva que reside sobre el botón de encendido y conectores de cable de interruptor rocker/ control de audio.

  54. Remueve el único tornillo Phillips #00 de 1.3 mm  que sujeta el soporte del cable de botón de encendido a la caja trasera.
    • Remueve el único tornillo Phillips #00 de 1.3 mm que sujeta el soporte del cable de botón de encendido a la caja trasera.

  55. Con cuidado toma el soporte con un par de pinzas y remuévelo del iPhone.
    • Con cuidado toma el soporte con un par de pinzas y remuévelo del iPhone.

  56. Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el soporte de cable de botón encendido al borde interno a la caja trasera:
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan el soporte de cable de botón encendido al borde interno a la caja trasera:

    • Un tornillo Phillips #00 de 2.1 mm

    • Un tornillo Phillips #00 de 1.7 mm

  57. Toma el soporte de metal que cubre el interruptor del botón de encendido con un para de pinzas y remuévelo del iPhone.
    • Toma el soporte de metal que cubre el interruptor del botón de encendido con un para de pinzas y remuévelo del iPhone.

  58. Remueve el único tornillo de 2.1 mm Phillips #00 de 1.2 mm que sujeta el interruptor de botón de encendido a la caja trasera.
    • Remueve el único tornillo de 2.1 mm Phillips #00 de 1.2 mm que sujeta el interruptor de botón de encendido a la caja trasera.

  59. Saca el interruptor de botón de encendido de su zócalo en la caja trasera con un par de pinzas.
    • Saca el interruptor de botón de encendido de su zócalo en la caja trasera con un par de pinzas.

  60. Usa la punta de un spudger para empujar el botón de encendido de su zócalo en la caja trasera.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para empujar el botón de encendido de su zócalo en la caja trasera.

  61. Toma el botón de encendido con un par de pinzas y remuévelo del iPhone.
    • Toma el botón de encendido con un par de pinzas y remuévelo del iPhone.

    The handle moves up and down, YET nothing is mentioned to the position (up or down) the new one should be installed. No matter which way I seat the button it, it doesn't stick out like when a working buttoned phone

    Speaking of install- this is a FIX not a tear down.... What not show the new part being installed... new part has plastic piece... does this take off or leave it on!!!!???!!!

    Patrick Jones - Contestar

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

21 personas más completaron esta guía.

Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:

en es

100%

¡ Mariana Roca nos está ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›

3 comentarios

The handle moves up and down, YET nothing is mentioned to the position (up or down) the new one should be installed.

Speaking of install- this is a FIX not a tear down.... What not show the new part being installed... new part has plastic piece... does this take off or leave it on!!!!???!!!

Patrick Jones - Contestar

Had the same issue if its up its back plate bends but down and its still not fixed ???

Alexander Rossiter-Pocklington -

obviously the assembly is reverse of tear down, but some retards just cant add 1 and 1.

all motor (D1g1tal H1ppy) - Contestar

Agregar Comentario

Ver Estadísticas:

Ultimas 24 horas: 3

Ultimos 7 días: 20

Ultimos 30 días: 85

Todo El Tiempo: 30,814