Sheldon Carpenter

I noticed on YouTube there is a video showing the replacement of the power supply, but no guide. I figure I'll use the HD...

It sounds like the MacBook is drawing power to run the Mac but not charge the battery at the same time. Depending on the update, the battery may have been marginally good but is now being specced as bad by the software. Here's a few ideas: - Check the battery condition on the Battery menu icon. - Check the Magsafe slot on the MacBook to see if there is any metallic debris. A magnet is there designed to hold the Magsafe plug, but it can pick up anything metal, as well, causing the plug to not seat well and even create a potential short. -Try another Magsafe charger to see if it will charge the battery. - If it doesn't then the battery may be at fault. - If a new battery does not fix the issue, then the problem may be with the MacBook itself. Take it to an Apple store to get it checked out.

This is regarding the small, grey plastic slotted mounts that fit onto the metal frame around the LCD screen. When you remove the bezel, they often come off with the bezel rather than stay in the mounting holes. I pop them off the bezel by placing my thumb over them then prying them off the bezel tab with a thin blade. To attach them back to the LCD frame, place one end in the hole, then gently press toward the inserted end so it arches upward slightly, allowing for the other end to snap down into the hole. I use a spudger or a chopstick to exert the backwards pressure and press down with my finger. Do not try to just mash them into the holes as this will merely bend the attachment tabs and potentially break them. I still use double-sided tape to hold the bezel in place.

Part 3: Reassembly

1) Reassemble the cyclonic unit the same way you disassembled it.

2) Insert the red cyclone fins into the clear cone. Rotate it until it slides into position

3) Place the cone on a table with the small end up and attach the extension tube with the three screws

4) Orient the collar with the concave side up. Press down on it with your palm until it snaps back into position. You may have to gently bump it to get it to seat.

That’s it! You now have a nicely clean, fully-functional cyclonic unit ready to go. Insert it back into the canister, attach it with the screws as shown in Step 5 and your vacuum should function like new.

Part 2: Disassembly of the cyclonic unit

1) An attached clear tube extends about 4 inches from the bottom of the cyclonic unit cone. It has a black gasket on the end where it inserts into the bottom of the “dirt cup” canister.

2) Where the tube joins the cone of the clear, outer cyclonic piece there is a clear, circular collar that surrounds the tube. If you grip the collar it should rotate in place.

3) If you look closely, you can see three black screws that join the extension tube to the cyclonic assembly. They are blocked by the collar.

4) Placing the cyclonic unit on a table with the extension tube on the surface, gently bump the collar with both hands downward. It should unsnap from the bottom of the cyclonic unit allowing you to slide it off the extension tube.

5) Unscrew the 3 screws that hold the unit together. The extension tube will detach and the red cyclonic fins part will slide out of the clear part.

6) Wash in hot, soapy water, using a plastic brush to clean.

The cyclonic dust filter is made up of two parts:

- The clear outer cone with holes

- The red inner part with the “cyclonic fins”

Hoover says if this part becomes clogged, to only brush it out and not wash it. If it gets really clogged Hoover suggests replacing the cyclonic with a new part. That’s really unnecessary. The cyclonic unit can be disassembled.

Different models vary so this is for the Windtunnel 2 specifically.

IMPORTANT: Do not remove the battery connector if you can avoid it. You can carefully pry up the battery and place it aside while it is still connected. During removal or replacement of the battery connector, if you inadvertently touch a very small, grey “fuse” right beside the connector with anything metallic, it can short out, resulting in the JoyCon’s battery becoming disconnected from the mainboard and no longer able to power it. The JoyCon will still work when docked but ONLY when docked.

The thermal sensor connection is more of a pain than it seems. It's a cramped area and it's not clear when it's properly plugged in during reassembly. It may *feel* like it's in, but then pops free at the slightest touch. I guarantee that if as soon as you start up, fans running max speed instantly is the indication this is the issue. If you're ok with that, then fine, but otherwise, you'll have to pull it apart again.

Note: SERIOUSLY:

- Disconnect the temp sensor from the iMac

- Lift up the screen from the RIGHT side (as if the iMac were standing up, facing you) to a vertical position

- Peel back the tape on the back of the LCD to expose the power supply connection

- Pull the connection from the LCD

- Attachment is the reverse

MUCH easier

Completed the repair in about an hour with the bare-bones iFixit screen replacement. It really helped to have a good tool set, good light and a magnifying hood and a great guide.

• I also used an old diaper-like cloth to work on. This has saved my bacon countless times as it keeps little screws and bits from bouncing off into oblivion, while making it really easy to spot them.

• The screen I had was utterly fractured. Several layers of packing tape were necessary, and even then the glass wanted to separate from the digitizer when pulling it up. It came up from the middle and I just used a spudger to work it up.

• I did not have the iOpener. I used a hair dryer and got the whole screen fairly warm. Everything detached easily.

• Be sure the frame where the screen fits is clean. I used a spudger holding the phone upside-down to scrape out the crud. I also smoothed out a big ding in the frame with a metal spudger, very carefully scraping and pushing it out. The new screen went in like butter.

When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

I gotta say, reassembling this assembly it very fiddly and painstaking. There are lots of little parts that need to fit into other little parts while engaging yet other little parts. Seriously, and exploded diagram of all these little parts would be helpful! I took my time, used a very bright light and a magnifying hood while disassembling and reassembling and it really helped.

When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.