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Introducción

¿Tienes una pantalla agrietada o ves lineas verticales raras? No temas! Usa esta guía para reemplazar la pantalla si algo terrible ha sucedido a tu hermosa pantalla Retina de tu MacBook Pro.

  1. Quitar los siguientes tornillos pentalobe P5 que sujetan la cubierta del  MacBook Pro:
    • Quitar los siguientes tornillos pentalobe P5 que sujetan la cubierta del MacBook Pro:

    • Ocho 3.1 mm

    • Dos 2.3 mm

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - Contestar

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - Contestar

    The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…

    br1ansk - Contestar

    Battery Recall for 15-inch MacBook Pro Retina mid-2015. Check Apple’s site for recalls, and put in your serial number. They replaced my swelling battery for free, regardless of warranty.

    Steve -

    As we are only replacing the battery, you can safely skip steps 6-26 and 28-48, no need to disassemble the computer to pull out the battery. Use nail polisher remover I was able to pull a super bloated battery out, without disassembling my MacBook.

    John Sikking -

    I’m having a problem trying to get the screws off. I have a set of pentalobe screwdriver set. I found one screwdriver that fits perfectly on one set of screws, but I am unable to unscrew it. I tried using some force pushing the screwdriver into the screw, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?

    henry_k_wong - Contestar

    All the screws on mine are the same length for some reason.

    ccfman2004 - Contestar

    I would recommend the first step is: Run the battery down to ZERO before doing any next step. This reduces risk to you, people nearby, to the MBP and greatly reduces the risk of fire. Step 2 should be: Double-check that the battery is at zero.

    I like others listed below and on YouTube, disagree with these full tear down 70+ steps being the only focus. I get that I have to be careful not to get the acetone solvent near the speakers. I skipped 25+ steps by: tilting the MBP away from the speakers and using very little acetone solvent. More pressure with the plastic cards and only a few drops of solvent. While giving the full set of instructions is fine it should be very clear that you can (at the user’s own risk) do this.

    Kenneth Schleede - Contestar

    As above—I consider full disassembly to be far riskier to fragile cables and connectors than the risk for solvent spillage. I did steps 1-5 and 46-74. No issues. I HIGHLY recommend the iFixit magnetic Project Mat. It’s a white marker board surface gridded into squares and invaluable for labeling part sizes/steps in disassembly.

    philtrit - Contestar

    As above too. I benefitted from the advice. From step 51 onwards, I found a easier way using tip from China battery seller. Use a 2” width plastic scraper/plastic paint scraper to poke under the battery. Use moderate strength to poke and avoid rough handling of the battery so as not to puncture it. There is no need to pry the battery to avoid stressing it, just use a firm poking action under the battery and the double sided tape adhesive will yield. After 5 min of such poking, the entire battery pack can be removed without the hassle of pouring the adhesive remover from step 51 onwards. Get a scraper with a stronger handle so that it is more comfortable to poke.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32889670...

    Emma Pn - Contestar

    Heads up as you go…we (husband/wife team) had a notebook that when screws/covers were removed, we marked the step # and actually taped the screws into the notebook noted by the step number. This was very helpful on reassembly and we knew we would be using the exact screw into the original screw hole.

    Ann Brainard - Contestar

    After replacing the batteries myself, I wouldn’t even consider doing it again. Not that it’s difficult to do—that’s not the issue. The issue is aftermarket batteries. I’ve been using notebooks for well over 30 years, and never had satisfaction with aftermarket batteries.

    Modern lithium batteries are an amazing technological feat, but a dangerous one. So even putting aside that I’ve never found any aftermarket batteries with quality anywhere near original, I learned “cheap” aftermarket lithium batteries are downright dangerous.

    After doing research into what’s involved with manufacturing lithium batteries, I know there are so many corners to cut, you’ll end up with junk regardless of what you pay.

    A week after replacing my batteries with those from iFixit, they showed clear signs of failure. Thank goodness iFixit refunded my money.

    After having Apple replace my batteries, everything is back to like-new. For my $199, I got not only excellent batteries, but a new keyboard and trackpad as well. That’s it’s done!!!

    AnnoniMoose - Contestar

  2. Levantando desde el borde más cercano a la articulación de la tapa, levanta la cubierta del Macbook Pro. Levantando desde el borde más cercano a la articulación de la tapa, levanta la cubierta del Macbook Pro.
    • Levantando desde el borde más cercano a la articulación de la tapa, levanta la cubierta del Macbook Pro.

    If you buy the entire kit, make sure you use the opening tool! I cut both of my index fingers trying to slide it off.

    Catherine Nath - Contestar

    Additionally, this is an “opportunity” to clean the cooling fans - and any other obvious dust magnets - with a can of compressed air. On the laptop I worked on, the cooling fans had sufficient dust to not “spin” freely - showing signs of “drag”. After blasting each cooling fan with compressed air (including from the exhaust vent side, as hitting the fins alone wasn’t adequate), they both spin freely now. No obvious signs of battery swelling on mine, but lack of adequate airflow could have been a factor with original battery aging/failure.

    J G - Contestar

    Good opportunity to give a good clean out. Air duster and small clean paint brush on plastic surfaces to clean up essential vents and fans. You can load fan monitor and control software to see what your your system is doing and how it improves with a clean up.

    Robin Razzell - Contestar

  3. La cubierta tiene dos clavijas de plástico (rojo) que entran en dos clips de plástico en la caja superior (naranja). Durante el reensamblaje, suavemente empuja hacia abajo, el centro de la cubierta para volver a fijar la caja a sus dos clips de plástico. Durante el reensamblaje, suavemente empuja hacia abajo, el centro de la cubierta para volver a fijar la caja a sus dos clips de plástico.
    • La cubierta tiene dos clavijas de plástico (rojo) que entran en dos clips de plástico en la caja superior (naranja).

    • Durante el reensamblaje, suavemente empuja hacia abajo, el centro de la cubierta para volver a fijar la caja a sus dos clips de plástico.

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - Contestar

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - Contestar

    Impossible to put those peds into the upper case clips! It just does not hold there, it fits but just does the ‘click’ sound and goes back. Is it possible to buy those clips as spare part? Thank you for help.

    Lopez Loku - Contestar

    Same for me. It just never clips, regardless of the precision and the amount of force I apply.

    Vadym Borodin - Contestar

    I also think I stripped the screws holding the clips in place. Does anyone know what screw characteristics should I look for as a replacement?

    Vadym Borodin - Contestar

  4. Retira la etiqueta de advertencia que cubre el conector de la batería
    • Retira la etiqueta de advertencia que cubre el conector de la batería

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus - Contestar

    +1 to above comment

    Andrew Saunders - Contestar

    Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

    Toby Thurston - Contestar

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Contestar

    It is just the top layer of tape that you want to lift, you need to seperate it from the bottom layer.

    Kelv - Contestar

    You don’t actually need to remove the tape or even peel it off at all. Just pull up the battery connector up with the tape still attached.

    AJ Lorenzo - Contestar

    pay attention that the macbook in this picture is presented the “wrong side”: if you accidentally remove the tape covering the trackpad cable and thereby also take the trackpad cable out of the zif-socket, your keyboard and trackpad won’t work anymore. putting the trackpad cable back into the (tiny) socket will fix the issue though.

    sam - Contestar

  5. Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, levanta suavemente el conector de la batería directamente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Dobla los cables de la batería hacia afuera y fuera del camino, asegurándose de que el conector de la batería no entre en contacto accidentalmente con la placa lógica. Dobla los cables de la batería hacia afuera y fuera del camino, asegurándose de que el conector de la batería no entre en contacto accidentalmente con la placa lógica.
    • Usando el extremo plano de un spudger, levanta suavemente el conector de la batería directamente fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Dobla los cables de la batería hacia afuera y fuera del camino, asegurándose de que el conector de la batería no entre en contacto accidentalmente con la placa lógica.

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay - Contestar

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - Contestar

    Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

    James Mitchell - Contestar

    Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

    paul - Contestar

    I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

    Joshua McFarland - Contestar

    There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.

    Ellie B -

    There is a battery cover with two T5 screws that must be removed before prying on the connector.

    Dennis Newton - Contestar

    Hi Dennis,

    Thanks for bringing this up! I’ll work on verifying this and adjust the guide as needed.

    Arthur Shi -

    My battery connector had another layer of plastic on it that I removed first

    Kelv - Contestar

    For an A1398, the screws on the adjacent cover were T6, not T5; one of the tips in the battery kit was suitable.

    J G - Contestar

    I need dis board hw much

    Ebuka Ofodile - Contestar

    After separating the battery connector, I took the addd precaution of placing a folded post-it between the connector bank and the socket.

    Matt Fisher - Contestar

    You can also use a plastic tool to hold back the battery connector. My connector was under the plastic tab and had no screws. You may need to check the build version as there are a number of A1398 versions.

    Robin Razzell - Contestar

  6. Usa una palanca Spudger antiestático o pinzas para desconectar los tres conectores de la antena Airport y doblarlos hacia arriba y quitarlos del camino. El punto de conexión del cable es muy frágil. Ten cuidado al levantar solo el conector, y no el cable. Para re-conectar, alinea cuidadosamente el conector en su posición sobre la antena Airport, y presionalo hacia abajo firmemente con la base de tu palanca spudger antiestático.
    • Usa una palanca Spudger antiestático o pinzas para desconectar los tres conectores de la antena Airport y doblarlos hacia arriba y quitarlos del camino.

    • El punto de conexión del cable es muy frágil. Ten cuidado al levantar solo el conector, y no el cable.

    • Para re-conectar, alinea cuidadosamente el conector en su posición sobre la antena Airport, y presionalo hacia abajo firmemente con la base de tu palanca spudger antiestático.

    I seriously hate this step - it is pretty much the only difficult part of the job. Reconnecting these microscopic stinkin connectors is a monumental PITA…

    T Rowe - Contestar

    Guys, be very carefull with these 3 cables.. If you are not going to replace the whole display, just be careful as much as possible.

    Adi - Contestar

    When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)

    If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.

    Aivar Kavshevich - Contestar

    I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.

    Abhishek Kathuria - Contestar

    ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…

    Antochny - Contestar

    AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?

    Marco Cappelli - Contestar

    Je confirme qu’il est plus simple de déconnecter la carte (enlever la vis, et tirer délicatement sur la carte) que d’enlever les trois cables / I confirm that it’s a lot easier to disconnect the Airport card (just remove the screw and pull gently) than removing those 3 wires.

    Maen J - Contestar

    Agreed with Abhishek - removing the wifi card first makes this much easier.

    Tammer Saleh - Contestar

    How do you know which is which when reassembling?

    Bryan Province - Contestar

    I highly suggest against disconnecting these wires. It's very likely that you will damage either sockets or wires. Do as others recommend, just remove the network card. Prying tool is not good for this step. I broke 1 out of 3 sockets. I wish I read all the comments before operating. Now I gotta get another card :(

    Adomas Aleknavičius - Contestar

    what size driver does this require? My pentalobe doesnt seem to be the right size.

    jack32878 -

    As many have mentioned, don’t disconnect the wires is reallly a pain in the a… to connect them, it wont be easy and will take a lot of patience….. Better disconnect the card and carefully leave the wires connected.

    ilukewitschalejandro - Contestar

    Just finished replacing both speakers using this guide. VERY good. I did not remove the individual wires - just removed the card with wires attached. Seemed to be the safer, easier way to go.

    Dwight Vaughn - Contestar

    How? can you explain the procedure?

    Cosimo Soderi -

    I’m attempting taking the card out but leaving the wires attached as mentioned. A Torx T5 worked for me on that screw. I then very slightly lifted up the end of the card where the wires are attached and pulled it straight out of the slot on the opposite side.

    Sean Gabel -

    Just finished replacing my display LVDS Cable with this guide and another one; awesome. I as well just removed the card and left the wires attached. Much easier.

    Alex DeLeon - Contestar

    This is one of those skills that you get experience right after you need it.

    I learned these connectors doing RF work. They require a deft touch. Put slight downward pressure while you work to align the pair. Once you get the hang of it, you will know when they are aligned, and they will go back together with a light push and make a slight snap.

    If they don’t immediately pop together with a light push, they’re not aligned quite right. Don’t force them, they have a very limited number of make/break cycles.

    The cables should retain their bent shape well enough to show where each goes. One it too short to go too far off, and one is too long to fit to the nearest connection.

    prreitz - Contestar

    I did not bother with the danger of removing cables or cards or logic board. I spent 30 mins removing my battery carefully, using string and CT1 multisolve which isn’t dangerous to plastic.

    i slid my string under the battery and see-saw underneath and sprayed Ct1 Multisolve underneath. I’ve now done both my macbooks. Didn’t destroy any cables or risk it. I put a few paper sheets over my logic board to cover any spray back. Simple see-saw and a palstic card, the blue spludger and the black long spluger.

    T Master. - Contestar

    Yes, I did the full board disassembly on my 2012 macbook last year and once I finished I kind of wondered why I didn’t just work on removing the battery. Is there any real obstacle to doing so here? Can I just spend an hour or so carefully removing the battery? What’s the risk of doing that? again, is there any actual obstacle to removing the battery without pulling out the whole board assembly?

    Brian Lamb -

    You can go straight for the battery if you’re confident enough to improvise a little. Removing the board makes sense if you’re trying to protect the speakers from getting chewed up by the solvent. Otherwise, it’s faster and easier to leave the board in place.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Agreed. Just replaced the battery on my 15” MacBook Pro 2015 and I skipped all instruction between step 6 and 46. I just unplugged the battery and removed the trackpad connection. Used some dental floss to cut through the adhesives and a card to help with carefully prying the batteries up. After the battery was removed I used some isopropanol to clean up from the old glue. Installed new battery, attached the trackpad connection ribbon and connected battery. All in all it took me less than one hour. I would not recommend removing the whole logic board just to replace the battery.

    Mackie72 -

    I’m one of those unfortunate ones that simply followed the iFixit instructions before reading the comments. On successfully reconnecting 2 of the cables and (miserably) failing with the 3rd, I realized the relevance of the comments. I decided to take a gamble and leave the 3rd connector unconnected and fired up my MacBook … strangely enough, everything works fine i.e from the comments, WiFi, Bluetooth, Camera (et al) should be affected but they are all still fully operational (maybe they’ll die with time - I hope not). I don’t like the thought of an unattached cable lying around in my Mac hence I agree with those advocating for alternatives to this step (unhinging the WiFi card as opposed to prying these cables).

    Otim Samuel - Contestar

    Diese drei winzigen Stecker wieder aufzusetzen war tatsächlich die größte Herausforderung der ganzen Reparatur! Wichtig ist dabei darauf zu achten, diese waagerecht und passgenau aufzusetzen. Ich habe dazu die Lupe meiner Lötvorrichtung genutzt und zum aufdrücken die flache Seite des Spudgers.

    Werner Hampl - Contestar

    These antenna connectors are the worst to reconnect. Depending on the model and what repair you are doing, you may not be able to avoid disconnecting them.

    ccfman2004 - Contestar

    We took the advice of leaving the wires attached to the card, and unhinging the wifi the card cable. Worked great for us.

    Ann Brainard - Contestar

    Ditto on just removing the card and leaving the antenna connected. Worked fabulously.

    Matt Fisher - Contestar

    If you do need to get the cables back on the the card, I have found good results using the tip of a T5 driver to gently push them down (of course while aligning carefully with other finger). It gives a firm, flat & precise surface to press with + we know you have a T5 around!

    Tech Medic - Contestar

    Why do these wires/sockets need to be removed at all? They seem like they are pretty faraway from the battery.

    John Sikking - Contestar

    As we are only replacing the battery, you can safely skip steps 6-26 and 28-48, no need to disassemble the computer to pull out the battery. Use nail polisher remover I was able to pull a super bloated battery out, without disassembling my MacBook.

    John Sikking - Contestar

  7. Desprende el cobertor de goma derecha hacia arriba y fuera del ventilador y dóblalo colocándolo hacia un lado. Desprende el cobertor de goma derecha hacia arriba y fuera del ventilador y dóblalo colocándolo hacia un lado.
    • Desprende el cobertor de goma derecha hacia arriba y fuera del ventilador y dóblalo colocándolo hacia un lado.

  8. Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector del cable de la cámara de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Asegúrate de empujar en paralelo al tablero, empujando primero en un lado y luego en el otro para "sacar" el conector de su zócalo.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector del cable de la cámara de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de empujar en paralelo al tablero, empujando primero en un lado y luego en el otro para "sacar" el conector de su zócalo.

    This connector is very fragile, the left edge of mine cracked off and ended up in the socket. And during figuring that out the cable or the socket appears to have got damaged because “no camera detected”.

    malhal - Contestar

    Yeah, same here.. Not sure what to do now

    Roman Kroupoderov -

    Have you found a solution to this problem ? I have the same issue

    Tim Rault -

    All connectors are incredibly fragile. I damaged the fan connector locking latch just by trying to lock it back in place. Fortunately the cable, by the way it inserts, it’s being pushed in rather than pulled on, however, I do have concerns with it not making a proper connection. Malcolm, I am wondering how you fixed your damaged connector?

    Robert Habib - Contestar

    The connector slides into the socket so using the flat end of the Splunger under the cable and gently lifting draws the connector apart.

    Dennis Newton - Contestar

    Don’t use the flat edge of the spudger. Instead, use the pointed end to gently slide off by the dog ears of the plug. If you look closely you’ll see a notch on each side.

    John Xeno -

    supplied tool does not have a fine enough point here - won’t move at all

    Paul Forgey - Contestar

  9. Usa los dedos para sacar los cables AirPort / Camera del ventilador. Los cables están adheridos al ventilador, por lo que debes pelarlos cuidadosamente para evitar dañarlos. Desengancha con cuidado los cables de la guía de cables de plástico
    • Usa los dedos para sacar los cables AirPort / Camera del ventilador.

    • Los cables están adheridos al ventilador, por lo que debes pelarlos cuidadosamente para evitar dañarlos.

    • Desengancha con cuidado los cables de la guía de cables de plástico

    • Al volver a ensamblar, deberá haber suficiente adhesivo aún en estos cables para pegarlos de nuevo en el ventilador.

    Leave them attached. Remove the single screw holding the board in place and gently wiggle the airport card out (see Airport card removal instructions). Fold the card up and towards the rear of the computer. Now follow the instructions for the camera cable removal. Lift the airport card with the three leads attached and the camera cable up and fold the, to the outside of the case.

    George R. O'Connor - Contestar

    This video shows how to do it safely: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AabLlHT5...

    Undo the 3 cables gently. remove the airport card. gently pry away the cables fro the fan plastic. then the camera cable will slide out easily.

    T Master. - Contestar

    I was afraid to just pull on any cables adhered, so I used a spudger edge to very gently “scrape” them up instead.

    Matt Fisher - Contestar

    It was much easier following the instructions on the YouTube video, thanks! Looks like the process starts around 4:11.

    Darnell Remy - Contestar

  10. Usa la punta de un spudger antiestático para levantar el seguro del cable de datos de la pantalla y gíralo hacia el puerto de alimentación MagSafe 2 del ordenador. Tira del cable de datos de la pantalla fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica. No levantes el cable de datos de la pantalla, ya que su zócalo es muy frágil. Tira del cable paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger antiestático para levantar el seguro del cable de datos de la pantalla y gíralo hacia el puerto de alimentación MagSafe 2 del ordenador.

    • Tira del cable de datos de la pantalla fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • No levantes el cable de datos de la pantalla, ya que su zócalo es muy frágil. Tira del cable paralelo a la cara de la placa lógica.

    • No toques los contactos del conector de datos o su zócalo con los dedos ni con ninguna herramienta, ya que puede depositar aceites o dañar los pines.

    Man! Your jumping out of order and you didn’t address the all the hinge screws removal.

    Ted Horodynsky - Contestar

  11. Quita los dos protectores de plástico encima de las bisagras. Quita los dos protectores de plástico encima de las bisagras.
    • Quita los dos protectores de plástico encima de las bisagras.

  12. Quita los dos tornillos T5 Torx de 3.2 mm que sujetan las cubiertas de las bisagras de aluminio a la carcasa superior. Quita los dos tornillos T5 Torx de 3.2 mm que sujetan las cubiertas de las bisagras de aluminio a la carcasa superior.
    • Quita los dos tornillos T5 Torx de 3.2 mm que sujetan las cubiertas de las bisagras de aluminio a la carcasa superior.

    Step 12 involves tiny T5 screws, often held in place by surprisingly strong thread lock compound. Very easy to strip the screw heads. Be absolutely sure you have the right driver for the screw, press firmly, and turn SLOWLY. The amount of force required to break the thread lock is nearly the same force that will strip the screw head. If you run into trouble, and you just happen to have a flat-blade screwdriver that fits exactly, that may work better than a T5 Torx driver. I stripped the screw head on my MBP and a flat-blade screwdriver saved the day.

    David Cavanaugh - Contestar

  13. Quita las dos cubiertas de las bisagras de aluminio del MacBook Pro. Quita las dos cubiertas de las bisagras de aluminio del MacBook Pro. Quita las dos cubiertas de las bisagras de aluminio del MacBook Pro.
    • Quita las dos cubiertas de las bisagras de aluminio del MacBook Pro.

  14. Quita cuatro de los seis tornillos T8 Torx de 5.3 mm que sujetan la pantalla a la carcasa superior. Deja el tornillo que está más hacia adentro (uno en cada bisagra) en su sitio.
    • Quita cuatro de los seis tornillos T8 Torx de 5.3 mm que sujetan la pantalla a la carcasa superior.

    • Deja el tornillo que está más hacia adentro (uno en cada bisagra) en su sitio.

    • Al reensamblar, asegúrate de que los dos tornillos que van en la bisagra de la izquierda, van a través del soporte del cable de la webcam/AirPort.

  15. Abre el MacBook Pro aproximadamente 110 grados, y colócalo de lado en la mesa, como se muestra.
    • Abre el MacBook Pro aproximadamente 110 grados, y colócalo de lado en la mesa, como se muestra.

  16. Mientras sujetas la pantalla y la carcasa superior juntas con tu mano izquierda, quita el tornillo T8 Torx restante del soporte inferior (más cerca de la mesa) de la pantalla.
    • Mientras sujetas la pantalla y la carcasa superior juntas con tu mano izquierda, quita el tornillo T8 Torx restante del soporte inferior (más cerca de la mesa) de la pantalla.

  17. Asegúarate de sujetar la pantalla y la crcasa superior con tu mano izquierda. De lo contrario, puede ocurrir que la pantalla suelta o la carcasa superior se caigan, dañando potencialmente cada componente.
    • Asegúarate de sujetar la pantalla y la crcasa superior con tu mano izquierda. De lo contrario, puede ocurrir que la pantalla suelta o la carcasa superior se caigan, dañando potencialmente cada componente.

    • Mientras sujetas la pantalla y la carcasa superior juntas con tu mano izquierda, quita el tornillo T8 Torx restante del soporte superior de la pantalla.

  18. Agarra ambas mitades del dispositivo, una con cada mano. Con suavidad empuja hacia adelante en la mitad inferior del dispositivo para liberarla del conjunto de la pantalla. Con cuidado separa cada componente, asegurándote de colocar la mitad inferior del lado del teclado hacia abajo para evitar dañar los componentes internos.
    • Agarra ambas mitades del dispositivo, una con cada mano.

    • Con suavidad empuja hacia adelante en la mitad inferior del dispositivo para liberarla del conjunto de la pantalla.

    • Con cuidado separa cada componente, asegurándote de colocar la mitad inferior del lado del teclado hacia abajo para evitar dañar los componentes internos.

    • Es posible que las pantallas de reemplazo no tengan sus bisagras ajustadas en el ángulo correcto. Usa unos alicates de punta fina para ajustarlos suavemente para que coincidan con las bisagras de la pantalla que se va a reemplazar.

    If you can't get your needle nose pliers under the hinges of the new display, use the blunt end of a 1/8" drill bit through one of the screw holes to leverage the hinge to the correct angle.

    Chris Shenk - Contestar

    Another solution is to use a hex key. I also forgot to get needle nose pliers and found a multi-hex key to do the trick of bending the new screen’s hinges into place.

    Aaron Freidus - Contestar

    Is this the entire top half of the computer or just the lcd assembly? It looks like your changing the whole thing?

    LyveMarketing - Contestar

    So my new screen isnt connecting ugh unsure as to whether I accidentally damaged something, or it just doesn’t work with my Macbook

    epicdino123 - Contestar

    Ok, help please, what did everyone’s screen look like BEFORE you did this repair? Mine had no display but you could see a slight blue lighted screen or backlight. No functionality though. I called Apple And they told me that it rarely happens, mine is only five years old and it would be probably between 600 and $800 to fix, and I could do something to hook it up to my TV the cable or just something else to hook it up to my iPad Pro. Put my son in Hawaii was to his trying to take over my screen couldn’t do that because I couldn’t except and he said he didn’t think I could take over my iPad because I would have to download an app and I had no wait to do that with a blank screen. ANY HELP?

    Marcy Wood - Contestar

Conclusión

Para reensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden regresivo.

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44 comentarios

Can the clutch be replaced in the 2015 15" Retina MacBook Pro?

Thomas Taggart - Contestar

Successfully replaced screen and everything is working great. One mechanical exception - the black clutch cover is loose on one side (the left side looking at the keyboard). i can "lift it" towards myself. it wasn't obvious while i was in there that there was a step to "hook it" into anything. what has it let go from and how do i go about ensuring that it's secure when it's flipped? Anyone know?

Thnaks!

J Allard - Contestar

It was a perfect job! Thanks!

Mike Mell - Contestar

Thank you! These instructions couldn't be better.

Devin Fredericks - Contestar

Do you have any intention of releasing a guide for the new A1707 2016 pro retina model with touch bar? Thanks for your help.

Michael Moore - Contestar

The Touch Bar models are definitely on our road map—it may be a while before we get to it, but we have every intention of writing and publishing those guides as soon as we can.

Jeff Suovanen -

Just bought my new 15 inch retina display replacement and after opening the cover I've noticed that the rubber on the bottom of the screen is off of the screen just like it isn't even attached on the screen and one of the hindges is loose.Is that normal or its faulty new display replacement screen?This is my first time dealing with this kind of replacement.Please help!

s.viktorijoski - Contestar

Any word on the A1707 2016 pro retina model with touch bar? Will the 2015 replacement display work with that? If not, will you be selling it?

Dennis Britton - Contestar

Any recommendations sources for a new screen? I'm in the UK and Apple won't sell them without fitting them. Any idea on what they cost? Thanks.

David - Contestar

Hey did anyone have problems with the screen is blank when the started the computer back up after the screen replacement?

Thanks.

Gregory Lyall - Contestar

Yes, I’ve having this problem. There’s no backlight, and I’m afraid to try my password again since I seem to have done something to it while working blind. To see if the computer is on, you can shine a flashlight to the plastic apple part on the back of the screen and see some of what’s on the screen.

But I don’t know how to fix this. I have noticed several comments about this in another iFixit instruction — mid-2014 — so it’s not an uncommon problem.

Lou Schiano -

Fantastic, just fantastic! Thank you yet again iFixit.

James - Contestar

Worked like a charm. Thank you Bert much for this manual!

Diederick Magré - Contestar

I saved myself ~$900 doing this myself instead of taking to Apple. Great tutorial! Worked perfectly!

Mel Dell - Contestar

Given that the most useful thing you’re likely to do once the screen is removed is to remove the clutch cover to tighten the hinge screws, it would be great to show that too. Thanks for the guide that got me as far as getting the screen off.

Steve Evans - Contestar

I followed the guide, and did not have any problems replacing the display! I bought the new display on ebay for around 250 EUR and the tools from ifixit for around 40 EUR(with shipping costs), so I kinda saved myself 600+ EUR at least. Thanks Ifixit :D

Adi - Contestar

Worked, took me about an hour! Be careful of step 15, the hinges are not interchangeable.

Having troubles at startup, though — the new display works, but shows me an empty battery with a lightning bolt underneath. I plugged it in to charge overnight, and it still shows the same thing. Did I mess up a battery step?

Rachel - Contestar

Followed the guide, took about an hour! The new display works, but one problem: it only shows an empty battery icon with a lightning bolt underneath. Is this a problem with reconnecting the battery?

Rachel - Contestar

Excellent directions, thanks! I replaced my display with a minimum of drama, works great.

John Bumgardner - Contestar

Great Instructions!!! Completed in 1.5 hours. We really appreciated the detailed photos. Saved us hundreds of $$$. Thank you.

jsmith_csi - Contestar

Great Instructions. Took me about 1.5 hours and worked great! Saved us hundreds $$$ of dollars in repair costs. Thank you!

jsmith_csi - Contestar

Also having the no backlight problem, and nothing shows up on the screen with flashlight in the Apple (white when on, black when off). Faulty display?

Samuel Keechler - Contestar

I also have the same problem. Just black display.

silver story -

This worked like a charm. Had an old MacBook pro 2011 15’ that the motherboard cracked but the screen was fine. Friend dropped her 15’ MacBook pro and broke her screen so I used these instructions to swap the screen out - I felt like a total hero. Great job guys and thanks.

Dom - Contestar

the macbook screen keeps going dark now any time that i leave it idle for more than 5 seconds. and it hasn’t went to sleep because the keyboard lights and the apple logo on the back are still lit up, even when i close the macbook lid shut. what could have possibly went wrong? how do i fix this ?

mr.solodolo175 - Contestar

I just completed a display replacement for a friends MacBook Pro. He got a flawless cheap display assembly from eBay, and the whole process took only 25 minutes. Here is a time-lapse video for those who are interested in it: https://youtu.be/ac4ALQC8C9Y

Jan - Contestar

Have to admit that I hesitated to spend $500 for the display because I doubted my ability to repair my MacBook Pro myself, but I took the plunge and purchased the display; followed the instructions to the letter along with the additional comments; and it worked like a charm.  Saved $1,000 in a repair bill at an Apple Service store.  Extend my appreciation to Andrew Optimus Goldberg for authoring this guide and the contributors for their additional follow-through comments.

Terri Mead - Contestar

Not a difficult repair at all. I didn’t even have any trouble with the dreaded antenna connectors. The screen I found was $400, so definitely worth doing, as opposed to buying a whole new machine!

jiclark - Contestar

Able to replace my broken display on MBP 15”. At first I thought something is wrong when I’ve attached the new display I’ve bought via Amazon. The problem is the model number. :)

After buying the correct model number for the display, it is not that super complicated. The guide really helped a lot.

silver story - Contestar

Very informative!

Before I go ahead and try this I wanted to confirm something. I have a bright spot in the middle left of the screen, particularly visible on white background, also the top left and right corners have a slightly blueish glow with a dark background

i can provide pics, before I go shock and awe, is there anything I can do about those?

AlexMorse - Contestar

Super Anleitung. Danke!

Thomas Karzelek - Contestar

HEllo!

unfortunately, I bought a “new” display in ebay but it had problems with one of its antennas.

after having serious wireless connectivity problems (when bluetooth is on there is almost no wifi connectivity) and trying everything on the software side, i realised one of the antenna connectors was clumsily repaired. the company assumed one of the cables “must be broken”.

I am unable to return the item so i have to find a way to solve it.

would the problem be most likely in that reparation? or somewhere else?

https://ibb.co/XFwgn2c

tips about how to go through this mess?

especulario - Contestar

It would be helpful to add the hinge adjustment as a step with a photo showing where the bend needs to be, how its done (where to grip it with pliers), and how to determine what the correct angle actually is.

I’m trying to repair one of these that was dropped from a distance on a carpet, face down while it was open. I was able to reattach the screen where it separated along the top with a heat gun, but the lid doesn’t close completely.

Richard Getter - Contestar

Thank you, purchased your Pro tools at Micro Center, this video also helped.

Lou - Contestar

I was trying to change the display cable

done thank you!

jacques

jacquessimard - Contestar

opération terminé tout fonctionne merci beaucoup

patrick schmidt - Contestar

One of the more straight forward display swaps. Compared to the Touch Bar displays these are cake. Takes 30-60 mins.

Ted Teske - Contestar

Does anyone know if a screen from a 2013 Retina MacBook Pro 15” can be used in a 2015 Retina MacBook Pro 15”? There are distinct guides, but the connectors all look the same.

Sean Suchter - Contestar

Where to find genuine screen (2015 mid 15” mac book pro)

Vijay Ila - Contestar

Great stuff! The warnings were worth their weight in gold too, 15 minutes well spent :)

AlexMorse - Contestar

Now the hard part is finding the actual display in stock at reasonable prices! :(

Juan Guzman - Contestar

can you use regular LCD replacement on mid 2015 Retina Display?

Maxwell Merzin - Contestar

Hi! Question: On this model, can the antenna be replaced here by disconnecting the display?

Raymahl Sutton - Contestar

Hi, I’m not sure if anyone have already ask this question; Is it possible to replace the front rubber bezel for this model? If so, what’s the level of difficulty.

Thank you!

Jason Quitazol - Contestar

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