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Introducción

Follow this replacement guide to replace the left Joy-Con rail on a Nintendo Switch gaming console.

  1. Remove the four 6.3mm Tri-point Y00 screws from the rear panel.
    • Remove the four 6.3mm Tri-point Y00 screws from the rear panel.

  2. Remove the single 6.1mm JIS #000 screw from underneath the kickstand.
    • Remove the single 6.1mm JIS #000 screw from underneath the kickstand.

    Mine was no longer than about 1mm.

    Nani - Contestar

  3. Remove the two 2.7mm JIS #000 screws from the bottom of the device.
    • Remove the two 2.7mm JIS #000 screws from the bottom of the device.

  4. Remove the single 2.7mm JIS #000 screw from the top of the device.
    • Remove the single 2.7mm JIS #000 screw from the top of the device.

  5. Remove the single 3.8mm JIS #0 screw from the right Joy-Con rail. Remove the single 3.8mm JIS #0 screw from the left Joy-Con rail.
    • Remove the single 3.8mm JIS #0 screw from the right Joy-Con rail.

    • Remove the single 3.8mm JIS #0 screw from the left Joy-Con rail.

    Please do not use a JIS #0 bit on this kit. I ended up stripping the screw on my switch and now I won't be able to get inside. You are much more likely to remove this screw with a JIS #000 bit, like literally every other screw on this machine. Why I thought I should throughly read and follow the instructions is beyond me, because I guess this ifixit guy decided it would be a great meme to get people to ruin their switches.

    Jacob Klinkenberg - Contestar

    +1, JIS #0 seems way too large; I used a #00 and that worked. I agree that #000 might have worked even better, but I saw this comment too late.

    Nikolai Knopp -

    Mine was #000 too. #0 was definitely too large. Also there are signs of blue threadlock.

    Nani - Contestar

  6. Pull the rear panel up and off of the device. Pull the rear panel up and off of the device. Pull the rear panel up and off of the device.
    • Pull the rear panel up and off of the device.

  7. Remove the single 3.1mm JIS #000 screw from micro SD card board.
    • Remove the single 3.1mm JIS #000 screw from micro SD card board.

  8. Lift the micro SD card board up and pull towards you to disconnect it from the motherboard. Lift the micro SD card board up and pull towards you to disconnect it from the motherboard.
    • Lift the micro SD card board up and pull towards you to disconnect it from the motherboard.

    I cant get the card reader to stay connected to the motherboard when trying to reassemble it. Help needed.

    aNtHoNy R - Contestar

  9. Remove the six 3.1mm JIS #000 screws from the shield plate.
    • Remove the six 3.1mm JIS #000 screws from the shield plate.

    Between Step 6 and Step 7, there is a missing step of disconnecting and removing the SD Card reader.

    Theo Mat - Contestar

    @theomat Step 7 and 8 show the removal of the SD Card reader.

    Blake Klein - Contestar

    Step 7 and 8 do not show that. It is completely missing. You show the card reader as being absent, but now how it came to BE absent. A lot of people will try to pull the shield out, presuming the reader is meant to come out with it. Why not update the guide?

    Daniel Henderson - Contestar

    Are you seeing something different then what’s seen in this screenshot? https://jmp.sh/PdfdhSy

    Blake Klein -

    @blakeklein I am not seeing that part of the tutorial, no.

    Nico Robin - Contestar

  10. Remove the shield plate from the device. A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Use our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro. A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Use our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro.
    • Remove the shield plate from the device.

    • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Use our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro.

    How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

    Youji Hong - Contestar

    I’d recommend replacing the thermal compound to ensure that the cooling system works as intended.

    Blake Klein - Contestar

    When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

    Diego Soto - Contestar

    I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

    Adam Stillman - Contestar

  11. Insert the pointed end of a spudger underneath the white connector and pry upwards to disconnect the battery from the motherboard. Insert the pointed end of a spudger underneath the white connector and pry upwards to disconnect the battery from the motherboard.
    • Insert the pointed end of a spudger underneath the white connector and pry upwards to disconnect the battery from the motherboard.

  12. Remove the three 3.1mm JIS #000 screws from the heatsink.
    • Remove the three 3.1mm JIS #000 screws from the heatsink.

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  14. Pull the heatsink up 45 degrees and rotate it to the right to remove. Pull the heatsink up 45 degrees and rotate it to the right to remove. Pull the heatsink up 45 degrees and rotate it to the right to remove.
    • Pull the heatsink up 45 degrees and rotate it to the right to remove.

    What's on the heatsink?

    Raven.K - Contestar

  15. Remove the two 3.1mm JIS #000 screws from the headphone jack reinforcement plate.
    • Remove the two 3.1mm JIS #000 screws from the headphone jack reinforcement plate.

  16. Remove the reinforcement plate from the headphone jack. Remove the reinforcement plate from the headphone jack.
    • Remove the reinforcement plate from the headphone jack.

  17. Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the ZIF connector connecting the display to the motherboard. To reconnect ZIF connectors like this one, gently slide the cable back in place and press the locking flap back into place.
    • Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the ZIF connector connecting the display to the motherboard.

    • To reconnect ZIF connectors like this one, gently slide the cable back in place and press the locking flap back into place.

  18. Use the pointed end of a spudger to slide the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector. Use the pointed end of a spudger to slide the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to slide the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.

  19. Remove the single 3.1mm JIS #000 screw from the headphone jack and game card board.
    • Remove the single 3.1mm JIS #000 screw from the headphone jack and game card board.

  20. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the headphone jack press-fit connector from the motherboard. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the headphone jack press-fit connector from the motherboard.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the headphone jack press-fit connector from the motherboard.

  21. Remove the headphone jack and game card board. Remove the headphone jack and game card board.
    • Remove the headphone jack and game card board.

  22. Disconnect the right loudspeaker from the motherboard. Disconnect the right loudspeaker from the motherboard.
    • Disconnect the right loudspeaker from the motherboard.

  23. Disconnect the left speaker from the motherboard. Disconnect the left speaker from the motherboard.
    • Disconnect the left speaker from the motherboard.

  24. Use a spudger to flip up the small beige locking flap on the display ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the small beige locking flap on the display ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip up the small beige locking flap on the display ZIF connector.

  25. Use the pointed end of a spudger to slide the display ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector. Use the pointed end of a spudger to slide the display ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to slide the display ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.

  26. Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the power/volume button ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the power/volume button ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the power/volume button ZIF connector.

  27. Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the fan ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the fan ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the fan ZIF connector.

  28. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the white coaxial antenna cable from the motherboard. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the white coaxial antenna cable from the motherboard.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the white coaxial antenna cable from the motherboard.

  29. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the black coaxial antenna cable from the motherboard. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the black coaxial antenna cable from the motherboard.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the black coaxial antenna cable from the motherboard.

  30. Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the right Joy-Con rail ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the right Joy-Con rail ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the right Joy-Con rail ZIF connector.

  31. Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the ZIF connector.

  32. Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the left Joy-Con rail ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the left Joy-Con rail ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip up the small gray locking flap on the left Joy-Con rail ZIF connector.

  33. Remove the four 2.50 mm JIS #000 screws from the motherboard.
    • Remove the four 2.50 mm JIS #000 screws from the motherboard.

    • Remove the two 3.14 mm JIS #000 screws from the USB-C port.

  34. Gently lift and wiggle the motherboard to remove.
    • Gently lift and wiggle the motherboard to remove.

    It should go without saying but make sure all ribbon cables are released and out of the way so you can lift the board out.

    Josh Lukins - Contestar

  35. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the ribbon cable.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the ribbon cable.

  36. Remove the four 3.8mm JIS #0 screws from the left Joy-Con rail.
    • Remove the four 3.8mm JIS #0 screws from the left Joy-Con rail.

  37. Remove the left Joy-Con rail.
    • Remove the left Joy-Con rail.

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

7 personas más completaron esta guía.

Blake Klein

Miembro Desde 29/01/17

46,803 Reputación

48 Guías creadas

Okay you don’t once mention the %#*@ MicroSD slot or even how to remove it. The picture go it being present when you remove the back plate to it just dissapearing when you show the step to remove the shield plate with no explaintion of how?

Joseph Dillander - Contestar

Great catch! It looks like I forgot to import that prerequisite. The guide has been updated, thanks!!

Blake Klein -

No problem, also if you can update it to include how to remove the Game card slot too, that’d be great.

Joseph Dillander -

@jdillander91 Game card has been added, thanks!

Blake Klein - Contestar

If this was a neon Switch, this would be the rail that gets attached with the blue or the red joy con?

felipemanzur21 - Contestar

it would be the Blue joy con

Nick Heilman -

I just did this, after step 11 leave the battery in place just unplug it. Undo the screws holding the rail in. You can slide out the old ribbon and remove the old rail. Put the new one in and slide the new ribbon it into place as there’s a small gap that allows this on the of the circuit board. Clip it in, plug in the battery. Then put it back together. This saves step 12 to 36.

Duncan Nicholls - Contestar

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