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Introducción

Para una reparación más fácil, use nuestro [producto | IF332-049 | fix kit | new_window = true] y siga [guía | 67489 | esta guía más corta | new_window = true] para reemplazar toda la pantalla de su iPhone.

Para reparadores más avanzados, esta guía los ayudará a reemplazar "solo" el LCD del iPhone 7 + el ensamblaje del digitalizador (es decir, el "panel frontal"). Esto requiere que transfieras varios componentes de tu pantalla original a la nueva antes de instalarla, incluida la [guía | 75241 | ensamblaje de la cámara frontal | new_window = true], [guía | 75238 | altavoz del auricular | new_window = true], [guía | 75483 | Placa protectora LCD | new_window = true], y [guía | 88860 | home / Touch ID sensor | stepid = 143016].

Para todas las reparaciones de pantalla / pantalla, es importante transferir cuidadosamente el sensor de ID de inicio / táctil original a la nueva pantalla para que funcione. '' 'El botón de estado sólido de inicio está emparejado con su placa lógica original de Apple , por lo que reemplazarlo lo dejará inutilizable.

  1. Antes de comenzar, descarga la batería de tu iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede incendiarse y / o explotar si se perfora accidentalmente.
    • Antes de comenzar, descarga la batería de tu iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede incendiarse y / o explotar si se perfora accidentalmente.

    • Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.

    • Remueve los dos tornillos pentalobe de 3.4 mm en el borde inferior del iPhone.

    • Abrir la pantalla del iPhone dañará sus sellos impermeables. Ten sellos de reemplazo listos antes de seguir con el próximo paso o ten cuidado de evitar la entrada de líquidos si vuelves a ensamblar tu iPhone sin reemplazar los sellos.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Contestar

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Contestar

  2. Si el vidrio de la pantalla está agrietado, mantén las roturas contenidas y evita lesiones corporales durante la reparación con cinta adhesiva sobre el vidrio. Coloca cintas  superpuestas sobre la pantalla del iPhone hasta cubrir toda la cara. Esto mantendrá los fragmentos de vidrio contenidos y proporcionará integridad estructural al hacer palanca y levantar la pantalla.
    • Si el vidrio de la pantalla está agrietado, mantén las roturas contenidas y evita lesiones corporales durante la reparación con cinta adhesiva sobre el vidrio.

    • Coloca cintas superpuestas sobre la pantalla del iPhone hasta cubrir toda la cara.

    • Esto mantendrá los fragmentos de vidrio contenidos y proporcionará integridad estructural al hacer palanca y levantar la pantalla.

    • Usa gafas de seguridad para proteger sus ojos de cualquier vidrio que pueda saltar durante la reparación.

    • Si el vidrio roto dificulta la colocación de una ventosa en los siguientes pasos, intenta doblar un trozo fuerte de cinta (como cinta adhesiva para ducto)en una esquina y levanta la pantalla con eso.

    In case of broken glass you can make the suction cup much more effective by covering the glass with a broad piece of translucent tape which eliminate air leakage through cracks in the glass.

    lionno1 - Contestar

    Il n’est pas nécessaire de mettre beaucoup de scotch.

    Au contraire plus vous mettez de scotch, plus il y aura de défauts et la ventouse ne collera pas.

    Une bande bien positionnée suffit.

    Chloé Bossuette - Contestar

    I’ve used hot glue on low setting to remove all types of crystals. The hot glue will release with a little iso alcohol. No damage to glass or plastic faced crystals or screens. Use a narrow piece of wood as a prying handle.

    Emilio Gonzalez - Contestar

    I recently had issues with removing the glass with the suction cup. I have done this many times with older generation iPhones but this time the glass seemed sealed on quite solidly. I told myself that the last option would be to use the screwdriver tip. After all my attempts, I transitioned to the option of using the screwdriver tip. Surprisingly, it was the easiest thing ever. I placed the 1mm flathead screwdriver at the interface between the glass and the cover (normal start location) and pried up very gently. Voila, the glass came up and I can’t even notice any dents or scratches. It felt much easier than the suction cup technique. If the suction cup is giving you a hard time consider using that 1mm flathead.

    forhereyesonly - Contestar

  3. Calentar el borde inferior del iPhone ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, facilitando su apertura.
    • Calentar el borde inferior del iPhone ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, facilitando su apertura.

    • Utiliza una pistola de calor o preparar un iOpener y aplicarlo en el borde inferior del iPhone durante un minuto para suavizar el adhesivo debajo.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - Contestar

    Sesenta segundos

    Krutav Shah -

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - Contestar

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - Contestar

    I totally Mr. Myagi’ed it, by rubbing my hands together until they burned, then held the phone un my hot hands. I did this 5-6 times over a couple of minutes. It was a good zen way to get started!

    Ark - Contestar

    Can a heat gun be used?

    Lee - Contestar

    Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?

    Marius Serban - Contestar

    Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Angel Hermida -

    Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?

    davidecongiu - Contestar

    Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?

    Eric Nance - Contestar

  4. Conecta una ventosa a la mitad inferior del conjunto de la pantalla, justo por encima del botón de inicio. Asegúrate de que la ventosa no se coloque sobre el botón de inicio, ya que esto evitará que se forme un sello entre la ventosa y el vidrio frontal.
    • Conecta una ventosa a la mitad inferior del conjunto de la pantalla, justo por encima del botón de inicio.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa no se coloque sobre el botón de inicio, ya que esto evitará que se forme un sello entre la ventosa y el vidrio frontal.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - Contestar

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - Contestar

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - Contestar

    I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.

    Mary Knapp - Contestar

    Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!

    Stephan Lienhard - Contestar

    Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?

    Rexx Havok - Contestar

  5. Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa para crear un pequeño espacio entre el ensamblaje de pantalla y la caja trasera. Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger en el hueco. El adhesivo  que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar es muy fuerte, y la creación de esta separación inicial requiere una cantidad significativa de fuerza. Si te resulta difícil crear una abertura, oscila la pantalla hacia arriba y abajo para debilitar el pegamento hasta que puedas insertar el  spudger.
    • Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa para crear un pequeño espacio entre el ensamblaje de pantalla y la caja trasera.

    • Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger en el hueco.

    • El adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar es muy fuerte, y la creación de esta separación inicial requiere una cantidad significativa de fuerza. Si te resulta difícil crear una abertura, oscila la pantalla hacia arriba y abajo para debilitar el pegamento hasta que puedas insertar el spudger.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - Contestar

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)

    Cristef -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - Contestar

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - Contestar

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - Contestar

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - Contestar

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - Contestar

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - Contestar

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - Contestar

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - Contestar

    Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.

    ted - Contestar

    Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.

    Christian Groothuis -

    It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just a question. After this operation the impermeability function was compromitted?

    bentek86 - Contestar

    The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)

    Andrew Lansdowne - Contestar

  6. Desliza el spudger a la izquierda a lo largo del borde inferior del iPhone. Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa trasera. Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa trasera.
    • Desliza el spudger a la izquierda a lo largo del borde inferior del iPhone.

    • Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa trasera.

  7. Desliza el spudger por el lado izquierdo del iPhone, comenzando en el borde inferior y deslizando hacia los botones de control de volumen y el interruptor de silencio. No hagas palanca en el borde superior del teléfono, corres el riesgo de dañar los clips de plástico que sujetan la pantalla. No hagas palanca en el borde superior del teléfono, corres el riesgo de dañar los clips de plástico que sujetan la pantalla.
    • Desliza el spudger por el lado izquierdo del iPhone, comenzando en el borde inferior y deslizando hacia los botones de control de volumen y el interruptor de silencio.

    • No hagas palanca en el borde superior del teléfono, corres el riesgo de dañar los clips de plástico que sujetan la pantalla.

  8. Inserta el borde plano de un spudger en la esquina inferior derecha del dispositivo. Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre el ensamblaje de la pantalla y la caja trasera. Desliza el extremo plano del spudger por el lado derecho del teléfono para romper el adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar.
    • Inserta el borde plano de un spudger en la esquina inferior derecha del dispositivo.

    • Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre el ensamblaje de la pantalla y la caja trasera.

    • Desliza el extremo plano del spudger por el lado derecho del teléfono para romper el adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar.

  9. Levanta la ventosa para levantar la pantalla y abra el iPhone. No levantar la pantalla más de 10º ya que hay cables planos  a lo largo del borde derecho del dispositivo que conecta la pantalla con la placa lógica.
    • Levanta la ventosa para levantar la pantalla y abra el iPhone.

    • No levantar la pantalla más de 10º ya que hay cables planos a lo largo del borde derecho del dispositivo que conecta la pantalla con la placa lógica.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - Contestar

    Made this mistake

    rachael.grime - Contestar

  10. Tira hacia arriba de la pequeña protuberancia en la ventosa para sacarla del panel frontal.
    • Tira hacia arriba de la pequeña protuberancia en la ventosa para sacarla del panel frontal.

  11. Desliza una púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPhone, entre la caja trasera y el panel frontal, para romper el adhesivo restante que sujeta la pantalla en su lugar. Tenga cuidado de no dañar los clips de plástico en el borde superior del teléfono.
    • Desliza una púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPhone, entre la caja trasera y el panel frontal, para romper el adhesivo restante que sujeta la pantalla en su lugar.

    • Tenga cuidado de no dañar los clips de plástico en el borde superior del teléfono.

    The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.

    Andrew Lansdowne - Contestar

  12. Tira del ensamblaje de la pantalla ligeramente hacia afuera desde el borde superior del teléfono para desenganchar los clips que lo sujetan a la caja posterior. Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la tapa posterior de un libro. No intentes separar por completo la pantalla todavía, ya que hay varios cables frágiles que aún la conectan a la placa lógica del iPhone.
    • Tira del ensamblaje de la pantalla ligeramente hacia afuera desde el borde superior del teléfono para desenganchar los clips que lo sujetan a la caja posterior.

    • Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la tapa posterior de un libro.

    • No intentes separar por completo la pantalla todavía, ya que hay varios cables frágiles que aún la conectan a la placa lógica del iPhone.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - Contestar

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - Contestar

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - Contestar

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - Contestar

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.

    Natan Haładyn - Contestar

    This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.

    neila - Contestar

    I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.

    Laurencio Gonzalez - Contestar

  13. Retira los siguientes tornillos triples Y000 del soporte del conector inferior:
    • Retira los siguientes tornillos triples Y000 del soporte del conector inferior:

    • Tres tornillos de 1.2 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.4 mm

    • Durante esta reparación, lleva cuenta de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que cada tornillo vuelva al lugar exacto de donde salió para evitar dañar tu iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Contestar

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Contestar

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Contestar

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Contestar

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Contestar

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Contestar

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Contestar

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Contestar

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Contestar

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Contestar

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Contestar

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Contestar

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Contestar

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony Vine - Contestar

  14. Retira el soporte del conector inferior.
    • Retira el soporte del conector inferior.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Contestar

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Contestar

  15. Baterías para ordenadores portátiles

    Un pequeño arreglo para un gran resultado.

    Comprar Ahora

    Baterías para ordenadores portátiles

    Un pequeño arreglo para un gran resultado.

    Comprar Ahora
  16. Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Dobla el cable del conector ligeramente hacia arriba para evitar que haga contacto con el zócalo y suministra energía al teléfono. Dobla el cable del conector ligeramente hacia arriba para evitar que haga contacto con el zócalo y suministra energía al teléfono.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Dobla el cable del conector ligeramente hacia arriba para evitar que haga contacto con el zócalo y suministra energía al teléfono.

  17. Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o reconectar los cables en este paso. Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger o tu uña  para desconectar los dos conectores inferiores de la pantalla haciendo palanca  hacia arriba de sus puertos de conexión en la placa lógica. Para reconectar estos cables, presiona un extremo hasta que encaje en su lugar, luego repite en el extremo opuesto. No presiones en el medio. Si el conector está ligeramente mal alineado, el conector se puede doblar y causar daño permanente.
    • Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o reconectar los cables en este paso.

    • Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger o tu uña para desconectar los dos conectores inferiores de la pantalla haciendo palanca hacia arriba de sus puertos de conexión en la placa lógica.

    • Para reconectar estos cables, presiona un extremo hasta que encaje en su lugar, luego repite en el extremo opuesto. No presiones en el medio. Si el conector está ligeramente mal alineado, el conector se puede doblar y causar daño permanente.

    • Si tienes un pantalla en blanco, líneas blancas en la pantalla, o no tienes respuesta táctil completa o parcial después de volver a ensamblar tu teléfono, intenta desconectar y reconectar con cuidado ambos cables y asegúrate de que estén encajados completamente.

  18. Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips 1.3mm que aseguran el soporte sobre el conector del sensor del panel frontal. Retira el soporte. Retira el soporte.
    • Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips 1.3mm que aseguran el soporte sobre el conector del sensor del panel frontal.

    • Retira el soporte.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Contestar

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Contestar

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Contestar

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Contestar

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Contestar

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Contestar

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Contestar

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Contestar

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - Contestar

  19. Desconecta el conector del sensor del panel frontal de su puerto de conexión con la placa lógica. Este conector a presión  debe ser reconectado al finalizar en el mismo momento para minimizar el riesgo de que se doble.
    • Desconecta el conector del sensor del panel frontal de su puerto de conexión con la placa lógica.

    • Este conector a presión debe ser reconectado al finalizar en el mismo momento para minimizar el riesgo de que se doble.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Contestar

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Contestar

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  20. Retira el ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Contestar

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Contestar

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - Contestar

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

  21. Retira los cuatro tornillos Y000 que sujetan el soporte sobre el sensor de inicio / ID  Táctil:
    • Retira los cuatro tornillos Y000 que sujetan el soporte sobre el sensor de inicio / ID Táctil:

    • Un tornillo de 1.1 mm

    • Tres tornillos de 1.3 mm

    • Durante el reensamblaje, ten cuidado de no apretar demasiado estos tornillos, o el botón de inicio podría no funcionar

    Why is the screw over top of the home button so difficult to get out… has anyone else experienced this..? This is twice now I've struggled to get that screw

    Brandon - Contestar

    The screw to the left holding the heatshield is never mentioned in this guide

    Beerbo - Contestar

    No reason to touch that screw unless you’re removing the shield—in which case, this step instructs you to remove it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So I stripped the screw furthest to the left, how can i possibly remove it now? Can I just buy a new LCD shield and home bracket button and screw and will that work just fine on the new screen replacement? this stripped screw of mine is not coming out

    Bryan Ferrer - Contestar

    That should work, as long as you can still get the home button/sensor out without damage. For removing a stripped screw this size, I’d probably try supergluing it to the driver—or else just drill the top of the screw off and then remove the bracket, leaving the screw shaft embedded in the old display. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I used the same driver for all of these screws. Had to apply a lot of pressure before trying to unscrew it and it was fine.

    jessica harlow - Contestar

    This is wrong, the size you need is Y00 for the 1.1mm screws and Y000 for the 1.3mm one.

    Robert Clark - Contestar

    The heads on those screws are identical. I’ve never had any trouble using a Y000 for all of them. Use whatever works for you I guess.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I’ve managed to strip the screw on the right hand side - not the far right, just right of the home button. Any ideas on how to get it out without glue (I don’t have any)

    Christie Ellen - Contestar

    My screwdriver is too big to get out the screws

    Coolinee Kerman - Contestar

    My eyesight isn’t what it used to be. That said, the replacement screen that arrived already had screws in the two outside positions. It took me a minute to figure this out when I was trying to install the home button. I couldn’t figure out why the screws weren’t going in. I thought the holes were filled or something… Nope. screws. Took them out and used them.. all good.

    Critter - Contestar

    My 7 had quite a bit of loctite holding these bad boys on. I stripped the one to the right of the home button and after using many “sentence enhancers” I was able to remove it using good tweezers and quite a bit of hand strength. I think that heating up the screws here is not an option because the cables lie underneath the plate and would probably get damaged from the amount of heat needed to loosen the loctite. Be patient here, and maybe have spare Y000 drivers because you may damage your driver getting these screws out.

    P Park - Contestar

    If your having trouble. I recommend you guys to buy the Y00o driver at amazon. It look golden. It works very will .

    Jonathan curz - Contestar

    Read instead of: “Remove the four Y000 screws”. “Remove the four Philips 00 screws”. Thats the case what occurs to me.

    Henk - Contestar

    Hi all, I’m really hoping someone will be able to give me a hand here, so the 1.1mm screw on top of the home button is stripped, and absolutely refuses to get out. I have tried the superglue technique mentioned and am worried it may have even glued the screw to the bracket. The only solution I can think of is to bend the home button bracket on either side of the middle screw, and use the bracket itself to remove the screw from the home button. I have ordered a new home button bracket either way, does anybody have any other ideas? Should I even attempt what I am proposing?

    Thanks in Advance.

    llamalulu42 - Contestar

    Does the ground strap go over or under bracket?

    Marcos Polos - Contestar

  22. Retira el soporte que asegura el sensor de inicio / ID Táctil.
    • Retira el soporte que asegura el sensor de inicio / ID Táctil.

  23. Haz palanca debajo del borde izquierdo del conector del cable del botón de inicio para desconectarlo de su zócalo. Si todo el conector comienza a levantarse sin separarse,   presiona hacia abajo el cable en el borde superior del conector con la parte plana de su spudger, mientras al mismo tiempo levantas el borde izquierdo del conector. Ten mucho cuidado de no dañar el cable o el conector, o desactivarás permanentemente el sensor. Si todo el conector comienza a levantarse sin separarse,   presiona hacia abajo el cable en el borde superior del conector con la parte plana de su spudger, mientras al mismo tiempo levantas el borde izquierdo del conector. Ten mucho cuidado de no dañar el cable o el conector, o desactivarás permanentemente el sensor.

    Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 31. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this home button?

    LadyTech - Contestar

    I think you can not do it because your phone is not identify for new cable.

    Ali Alsaed - Contestar

    Best thing to do here is to NOT pry up on the connector, but to insert the pry tool on the left side until the connector is dislodged.

    Oscar Moreno - Contestar

    Good tip. Worked perfectly. Thx.

    Klaus M -

    That worked perfectly, thank you!

    Emily Kretschmer -

    use one pry tool to hold down, another to pull up.

    Christa - Contestar

    I did it. :-( i broke it

    Peter Keller - Contestar

    Anyone having difficulty reconnecting the two ? I’ve been trying for ages with no luck.

    Patrick McKenna - Contestar

    Same problem here - can reconnect them once the new LCD is being installed. Not sure what the trick is.

    edcraigslistaccount -

    my Homebutton don´t work after I reconnect all, I checked all flex cables but it still dont work. what can I do?

    Dr. Dieter - Contestar

    so, i’m working on an iPhone 7. I was very careful not to break anything, I even bought an iOpener heat pack and applied it, and everything went off without a hitch, but when I tested the button, It does not work, would it help to reconnect it or something?

    Thanks a lot!

    Peter Keller - Contestar

    iPhone 7 home “buttons” can be really fussy. You’ll find some good troubleshooting tips here and here. Hope this helps!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Broke my cable. The picture is not clear but you have to separate the thin silver end of cable from what looks like a black piece of rubber. I pulled up on it from under the black rubber like the picture shows and broke mine.

    bart.hutchings - Contestar

  24. Con cuidado levanta el conector subyacente y aléjelo del cable de inicio / ID Táctil. Es muy fácil dañar tu iPhone durante este paso. Trabaja despacio y ten cuidado cuando haces palanca con tu herramienta. Si dañas el hardware Touch ID, solo puede ser reemplazado por Apple.
    • Con cuidado levanta el conector subyacente y aléjelo del cable de inicio / ID Táctil.

    • Es muy fácil dañar tu iPhone durante este paso. Trabaja despacio y ten cuidado cuando haces palanca con tu herramienta. Si dañas el hardware Touch ID, solo puede ser reemplazado por Apple.

    • Si el conector no se levanta fácilmente, usa un secador de pelo o iOpener para calentar y ablandar el adhesivo que asegura el conector, y luego intente de nuevo.

    • No intentes desconectar el conector por completo; simplemente gíralo ligeramente para que el cable del sensor de inicio / ID Táctil subyacente se pueda extraer.

    Make sure that you fold this cable out when fitting your replacement before you fasten the shield back down. I didn’t but managed to loosen 2 screws on the shield to get the cable out.

    chris_sawyer - Contestar

    If you have isopropyl alcohol on hand. You can use it to help weaken the adhesive temporarily when lifting up the adhered home button.

    Ben - Contestar

  25. Al calentar el área alrededor del sensor de inicio / ID Táctil ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que sostiene su cable delicado en su lugar, lo que facilita la extracción segura.
    • Al calentar el área alrededor del sensor de inicio / ID Táctil ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que sostiene su cable delicado en su lugar, lo que facilita la extracción segura.

    • Da la vuelta al ensamblaje de la pantalla. Usa un secador de pelo o prepara un iOpener y aplícalo al borde inferior de la pantalla durante aproximadamente 90 segundos para suavizar el adhesivo que se encuentra debajo.

  26. Utilice un pico de apertura para separar suavemente el adhesivo que sujeta el cable del sensor de inicio / ID Táctil en la parte posterior del panel de visualización. Utilice un pico de apertura para separar suavemente el adhesivo que sujeta el cable del sensor de inicio / ID Táctil en la parte posterior del panel de visualización. Utilice un pico de apertura para separar suavemente el adhesivo que sujeta el cable del sensor de inicio / ID Táctil en la parte posterior del panel de visualización.
    • Utilice un pico de apertura para separar suavemente el adhesivo que sujeta el cable del sensor de inicio / ID Táctil en la parte posterior del panel de visualización.

    It cannot be stressed enough that this is the one part of this repair that you can’t screw up. Anything else you’ll deal with during this repair can be easily replaced (The screen, and the sensor/microphone/camera assembly). Tearing this cable means an expensive trip to the apple store. or a very unhappy customer if you’re doing this for someone. Heat is your friend. I don’t even use a spudger or a guitar pick for this one, I use a new playing card to pull this up. Even with the card, you have to be careful. The edge of the playing card can nick the cable if you’re not careful to get it under the ribbon cable. If the adhesive isn’t soft enough for the card to get it up, apply more heat. Again, you can’t screw this step up. It’s all or nothing.

    Spartan99 - Contestar

    Well, no visible damage but the home button won’t work. I contacted a local Apple Authorized Service Center to check options. Since I had personally replaced the screen assembly, they wouldn’t even look at it per Apple policy. They said they would jeopardize their Apple Authorization if they even looked at it. Seems like more of the “Right to Repair” problem to me. Frustrated, but at least I have the accesibility home button working.

    bandman - Contestar

    Make sure the home button screws aren’t overtightened; that often causes issues. If there’s any damage to the button cable, a repair shop with a skilled microsolderer can patch a new cable on and restore functionality. iPhone 7 home button not working after screen replacement? Worst case scenario, you can also buy a screen repair from Apple, and they’ll include a new home button. I am not a lawyer, but the response you’re describing from the AASP sounds way out of bounds. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just keep in mind that this is a very delicate step that requires a lot of patience. the part is attached to the body of the phone so firmly and there is no gap to put the opening pick under. So the way I did it was applying a good amount of heat onto the part and not from behind. I did it constantly for 5 minutes, a few minutes at a time, then I pulled the connected up slightly (a little too much pressure on the pull and you will break the wire). Pull it constantly and If the heat has been enough to melt the adhesive, it should come off easily and slowly.

    ashkan eslami fard - Contestar

    Hi, a little thing to help : i heatened up and then insert a cutter blade to start. Work better

    Crasset Renaud - Contestar

  27. Retira el conjunto de sensor de inicio / ID Táctil levantándolo por la parte frontal de la pantalla.
    • Retira el conjunto de sensor de inicio / ID Táctil levantándolo por la parte frontal de la pantalla.

    • Para reinstalar, primero introduce el cable a través del orificio en la parte frontal de la pantalla.

    • Tu parte de reemplazo puede venir con un tornillo extra Y000 ya instalado en el Botón de Inicio. Remueve el tornillo innecesario así puedes reinstalar el soporte de botón de inicio.

    True to this picture, the home button can only be removed (and put back in place) through the front of the LCD assembly.

    Talon - Contestar

    Very good comment Talon. That was the first thing I was looking for here. There should be a bullet point in step 24 - Carefully remove home button from front of display being careful not to damage cable.

    Tracey - Contestar

    Had an issue when putting the screen back on, the side where the cables attach would not sit flush. At first I thought the cables were pushing the screen up. Turned out to be the battery cable shield was just a fraction too far down toward home button. After loosening screws, nudging it up slightly and screwing back in, the screen sat flush as it should. In case anyone else has same issue.

    jbarry - Contestar

    Is there anything special about reassembling the "home" button ?

    I tried several times with several buttons but none works.

    Lambiel - Contestar

    must use original button

    Christa -

    My phone is no more turning on after I replace the screen, no reaction if I press home button or power button

    cheryl.iseli - Contestar

    Why doesn’t this tutorial also cover the earpiece assembly?

    James - Contestar

    This guide is missing the camera transfer and the stupid little black sticker on the earpiece assembly that causes the earpiece not to work if that sticker is not transferred. This guide is wholly incomplete

    Mason Schild - Contestar

    James and @computermason—You’ll want to look up the correct guide for your repair, especially if you’re not using one of the kits for which this guide is designed. The guide for transferring all the smaller components is here.

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

    No home button functionality? I just watched a video on YouTube from two years ago saying that the iPhone 7 and 7+ have to be taken to an Apple repair center for the home button to work. Is this still the case? If so why didn’t you tell me this before I ordered this! Please confirm before I start warning everyone not to purchase from you!

    Gregory Haycock - Contestar

    @ghaycock If you’re replacing a screen, the home button will work fine as long as you carefully remove it from the old screen and transfer it to the new one, exactly as explained in the guide. The button itself can’t be replaced without help from Apple (which is why iFixit doesn’t sell home buttons for this model).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    One thing I don’t see mentioned is the replacement of the rubber gaskets that are on the pentalobe holes. The replacement screen did not come with these on it. I was able to remove them from the OEM screen, but there was no easy way to get them to adhere to the new screen. If they move just a little, you might not be able to properly thread the pentalobe screws. Worst case is that they fall into the body of the phone during this last step of re-assembly. At that point, you’ve already started to have the screen stuck to the adhesive, so you would need to redo the entire adhesive gasket.

    You can see the gaskets in this picture: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

    Here they are near the new screen: https://drive.google.com/open?id=14FwpSB...

    Andre LeBlanc - Contestar

  28. Retira los tres tornillos Phillips que fijan el soporte del auricular al panel frontal:
    • Retira los tres tornillos Phillips que fijan el soporte del auricular al panel frontal:

    • Dos tornillos de 2.6 mm

    • Un tornillo de 1.7 mm

    I am measuring the screws; my digital caliper measures both the top at 1.88mm not 2.6

    Marco Cueva - Contestar

    I just checked the screw measurements and they match what’s shown in the guide. Are you sure you’re looking at the right screws?Are you sure your caliper is accurate? Was your iPhone serviced in the past and reassembled incorrectly? Something isn’t right. The measurements here are the screw lengths, by the way—just in case you were measuring something else.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  29. Retira el soporte del auricular
    • Retira el soporte del auricular

  30. Levanta y separa la cámara frontal para poder acceder al auricular Levanta y separa la cámara frontal para poder acceder al auricular
    • Levanta y separa la cámara frontal para poder acceder al auricular

  31. Retira los otros dos tornillos Phillips que fijan el auricular al panel frontal:
    • Retira los otros dos tornillos Phillips que fijan el auricular al panel frontal:

    • Un tornillo de 1.9 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.5 mm

    Hi!What size is the third screw?

    Лёха Н - Contestar

  32. Saca el altavoz auricular.
    • Saca el altavoz auricular.

  33. Calienta un iOpener y aplícalo al borde superior de la pantalla para ablandar el adhesivo que sujeta el ensamblaje de cámara frontal y sensor en su lugar.
    • Calienta un iOpener y aplícalo al borde superior de la pantalla para ablandar el adhesivo que sujeta el ensamblaje de cámara frontal y sensor en su lugar.

    • Espera alrededor de dos minutos antes de seguir con el siguiente paso para ablandar adecuadamente el adhesivo.

  34. Utiliza la punta de un spudger para levantar cuidadosamente el sensor de luz ambiental de su zócalo en el panel frontal. Trata de colocar tu herramienta totalmente debajo del sensor para levantarlo del plástico claro debajo. Si haces palanca solo contra el cable, el sensor podría separarse del ensamblaje de cable y necesitará reemplazarse. Si estás reemplazando el ensamblaje de cable/sensor de todas formas, entonces no importa.
    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para levantar cuidadosamente el sensor de luz ambiental de su zócalo en el panel frontal.

    • Trata de colocar tu herramienta totalmente debajo del sensor para levantarlo del plástico claro debajo. Si haces palanca solo contra el cable, el sensor podría separarse del ensamblaje de cable y necesitará reemplazarse. Si estás reemplazando el ensamblaje de cable/sensor de todas formas, entonces no importa.

    I’m sorry to comment but this step is wrong. The proximity sensor is sticked to the display. I was following this instruction and the sensor was unvelded from the flex cable. Now it’s workless. It’s a fortune that the only problem with the iPhone is that while calling and holding the phone to the ear, the display doesn’t turn off.

    I recommend to gently pushing against the transparent plastic enclosure near the sensor and once it’s unsticked, keep pushing against the sensor’s body. In this way the sensor welding doesn’t bear/support any extra load on it.

    At least, my iPhone 7G had the sensor sticked to the display. Maybe some day I will replace it (around 20€ - 25€ on ebay)

    I won't claim to iFixit nor stop using this website. Whenever I higly recommend to iFixt technitians to revise such kind of “errors”. At least for expensive devices like Apple products.

    Miguel Cretu - Contestar

    I editted this guide and added these two comments. I already know about this “trick”. It’s your own decision to follow my suggestion or not.

    Miguel Cretu - Contestar

    I have fixed 2 screens now on iPhone 7. The 1st time I didn’t have this problem, 2nd time I did. I would agree with Miguel Cretu and save yourself the hassle and remove the sensor and it’s surround altogether.

    Wayne Lyell - Contestar

    In the second picture, there is the splugger that’s on it’s right is near a little window square, white inside. I’ve checked my replacement display and it don’t have inside in WHITE in this little window . Anyone know why have this color (it is not a sticker) and what is the reason? Thanks

    fakirox - Contestar

  35. Desliza la púa hacia el recoveco de la cámara frontal separando el adhesivo que sujeta el cable al panel frontal. Deténte justo antes de los postes de tornillo. Desliza la púa hacia el recoveco de la cámara frontal separando el adhesivo que sujeta el cable al panel frontal. Deténte justo antes de los postes de tornillo. Desliza la púa hacia el recoveco de la cámara frontal separando el adhesivo que sujeta el cable al panel frontal. Deténte justo antes de los postes de tornillo.
    • Desliza la púa hacia el recoveco de la cámara frontal separando el adhesivo que sujeta el cable al panel frontal. Deténte justo antes de los postes de tornillo.

  36. Usa la púa para levantar el cable de la cámara de los dos postes de plástico en el panel frontal y separarlo del último resto del adhesivo. Usa la púa para levantar el cable de la cámara de los dos postes de plástico en el panel frontal y separarlo del último resto del adhesivo. Usa la púa para levantar el cable de la cámara de los dos postes de plástico en el panel frontal y separarlo del último resto del adhesivo.
    • Usa la púa para levantar el cable de la cámara de los dos postes de plástico en el panel frontal y separarlo del último resto del adhesivo.

    на рисунке №2 винт 3 отсутствует, на рисунке № 3 винт 3 присутствует. нет описание где он был вывинчен. последний винт с правой стороны, около камеры

    Vitaly Savin - Contestar

  37. Remueve la cámara frontal y el cable de sensor.
    • Remueve la cámara frontal y el cable de sensor.

    Look at the camera assembly closely. There are two cables soldered together. Do not separate the pieces by mistake . Get the pick all the way below both ,and they will come off together.

    turboduck2 - Contestar

    Good statement I made that mistake on my first iPhone 7 Plus !

    Jaye - Contestar

    Its not mentioned here but there is a small philips screw at the top left that you may have to transfer to your new lcd panel

    Steve - Contestar

    Hi Steve, what is the main work of this little strip with 2 small contact? Antenna? Shield?

    Thanks

    fakirox -

    I’ve separated the sensor and front facing camera, can I just press them back together or will I need a complete replacement

    Dominic Sore - Contestar

    About Steve comment, anyone know what is this small screw with two contact? It is an antenna ?? Shield??? Thanks

    fakirox - Contestar

    I’m also looking for info on the screw on the immediate left of the top left corner of the speaker. Did you find the info out?

    Cheers!

    Mike Grandbois - Contestar

  38. Remueve los tres tornillos tri-point Y000 de 1.2 mm de ambos lados del ensamblaje de pantalla, un total de seis tornillos. Remueve los tres tornillos tri-point Y000 de 1.2 mm de ambos lados del ensamblaje de pantalla, un total de seis tornillos.
    • Remueve los tres tornillos tri-point Y000 de 1.2 mm de ambos lados del ensamblaje de pantalla, un total de seis tornillos.

    i miss the screw size here

    Beerbo - Contestar

    I think it's 1.2mm Y000

    STRAP -

    I d’ont think the screw size is correct, because i had to order a new heat shield plate, because my original broke during the replacement.

    Marco Burkhalter - Contestar

    I found if I held the flat end of a spudger behind the screw while I unscrewed, it worked well. Otherwise there was too much flex to get a good grip on the screw.

    Travis Hogg - Contestar

    good tip! Yes, there is indeed too much flex when removing the screws.

    amberron -

    My screws are too tight that I can't unscrew it. What should I do?

    Charles Bejarano - Contestar

    I have had this problem so far on all the red tri point screws. The first screw, the home button, and 4/6 of these. I have noticed little to no advice on each one or for stripped screws. I have been able to manage so far but not sure about this one.

    kimberly klassy -

    Here, I was able to use a soldering iron on the back side of the screw to get it quite hot to release the INSANE amount of loctite that was applied to my 7. Be patient and let the screw get hot. If you try to move the screw with the Y000 and it doesn’t move, WAIT. Don’t strip the screw or your driver.

    P Park - Contestar

    Good tip using the soldering iron. I’ve just ordered a quality Y driver as the cheap one that came with the screen can’t remove these screws. Why the the Loctite? Had to reassemble what I’ve pulled apart to await the new driver.

    Tony Binstead -

    I understand home button , but why do i need to replace the shield and camera/speaker?

    Ēriks Jaunzems - Contestar

  39. Calienta un iOpener y colócalo sobre el borde de la placa más cerca al botón de inicio para ablandar el adhesivo que la sujeta en su lugar.
    • Calienta un iOpener y colócalo sobre el borde de la placa más cerca al botón de inicio para ablandar el adhesivo que la sujeta en su lugar.

  40. Usa una púa de apertura para romper el adhesivo cerca del botón de inicio que sujeta la placa de escudo de LCD al ensamblaje de pantalla. Usa una púa de apertura para romper el adhesivo cerca del botón de inicio que sujeta la placa de escudo de LCD al ensamblaje de pantalla. Usa una púa de apertura para romper el adhesivo cerca del botón de inicio que sujeta la placa de escudo de LCD al ensamblaje de pantalla.
    • Usa una púa de apertura para romper el adhesivo cerca del botón de inicio que sujeta la placa de escudo de LCD al ensamblaje de pantalla.

    applying 1 minute of hair dryer heat in this step really helps the separation in this step

    amberron - Contestar

    definitely use heat and work slowly!

    Catharine - Contestar

  41. Con cuidado levanta la placa de escudo LCD del ensamblaje de pantalla. Ten cuidado de no enganchar los cables de datos de pantalla al remover la placa de escudo LCD.
    • Con cuidado levanta la placa de escudo LCD del ensamblaje de pantalla.

    • Ten cuidado de no enganchar los cables de datos de pantalla al remover la placa de escudo LCD.

  42. Sólo queda la pantalla y el digitalizador.
    • Sólo queda la pantalla y el digitalizador.

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

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When I took off the home button, a small black square rubber piece fell out. while prying off the cable.

Can anyone tell me where this is supposed to go when I put the home button back on.

Joe in PA - Contestar

The small black square that fell off is originally located on the bottom pentalobe screw bracket on the screen. It can slide back over it if you place it right.

Primus -

Thank you!!!

Punxohn Khut -

useless guide without a guide how to mount it all back on.

The home button wont fit back in its whole

iffbas - Contestar

You have to put the flex through the hole from the front, and set the button against the front of the screen. Just like you got it out, in reverse.

Eric Davies -

The home button is a very delicate assembly. Once you have the home button's cable off the back of the display, and the screws off, push it lightly out from the back of the display. It should fall out.

michelle mcdonald - Contestar

Would be nice to show the process of making it watertight again.

Justin - Contestar

I have tried to fit 2 different lcd’s to an iphone 7 and the phone keeps going to apple logo and then black but when I disconnect the home button the phone load up

jamesreid1958 - Contestar

There was an apple update that fixed that issue, it was update that caused the crash

CPR Fredericksburg -

I have completed the screen repair, although now the iPhone takes minutes to boot up and then keeps freezing when trying to use it. I have connected the old screen just in case it’s the new screen that’s the issue although it still appears to be the same. Also now when I connect the camera flex at the top the iPhone just boot loops. I have also tried a new Camera flex with the same result. Can anyone help with either of these problems?

Donald - Contestar

When reassembling the home sensor and the front camera without using any adhesive, how will that affect the end result? Or is it implicit that you should use adhevise of some sort when reassembling?

Per Helm - Contestar

How do i get adhesive to make the phone waterproof again and where can I get a good lcd to replace my damaged one

Iyinoluwa Ayedegbe - Contestar

Hi, you can find a new LCD here, and new adhesive here. Replacing the adhesive won’t guarantee that the phone is waterproof again, but it certainly helps.

Adam O'Camb -

It has been mentioned here through virtue of the fact that Joe in PA queried what the rubber grommets were for after prying off the home button ribbon cable, if this is for a replacement LCD it might be worth adding a step advising that these need to be removed carefully by sliding them up and off the pentalobe screw brackets with tweezers as they’ll need to be moved across to the replacement screen, 3rd party replacements don’t come with them fitted.

Brendon Gould - Contestar

With a little time and patience, I switched out the lcd screen. My only issues are that even though i used the same home button, the finger print feature no longer works and the screen is way to sensitive that it has to be put on speaker phone for calls because my cheek touches the phone. i’ve been trying to find out if there is an adhesive that is supposed to be on the back of the lcd screen when i reassembled it or anything else i can do to remedy this frustrating issues.

Stacy Mails - Contestar

Is your screen illuminated while you talk? If so, the proximity sensor may not be seated properly, or broken. Trying to understand what you mean by the screen being too sensitive.

daimodess -

If I am harvesting another iPhone 7 for parts, do I need to remove everything from the screen? I know I need to move the home button for touch ID, but can I just leave other things like the front facing camera alone, or are those tied to the logic board too?

d0rk4l - Contestar

The home button’s Touch ID is the only thing that’s tied to the logic board. All the other small parts on the screen can be freely replaced or moved to another iPhone 7 and will retain functionality.

Adam O'Camb -

HELP strange situation. Bought an iPhone 7 stuck in a boot loop and cracked screen. Home button working fine. Fixed boot loop, restored- but after swapping the home button across to the new screen I’m finding the home button has stopped working. The home button still works fine from the old cracked screen... I thought the home button was married to the logic board? Any advice??

titcharoony123 - Contestar

Help please.

have changed it all out and it will not power on at all what is wrong with it

William Feltner - Contestar

I changed an iPhone 7 screen and I Get no display coming up. All connectors are plugged in properly. Help

Jerry Ramirez - Contestar

Installing the adhesive gasket was easy to figure out, however, the instructions on re-assembly should say something about it instead of ignoring it. C’mon, man!

jlauve - Contestar

There are extensive instructions linked in Step 19.

Jeff Suovanen -

I just want to comment that I LOATHE Apple for adding these Y000 screws.

Make sure you get a good Y000 screwdriver, because the crappy one that came with the replacement screen (purchased from Amazon. Sorry iFixit, the person didn’t want to spend the extra money to go with your screen) started to strip when I tried to remove the first few Y000 screws.

I had to keep filing down the screwdriver in order to use it.

Joe - Contestar

Hi. Any solution to fix Toich ID not working.

Deniss Ko - Contestar

So I work at a phone repair shop and went to replace the screen on my iPhone 7 today, and i accidentally grabbed an iPhone 8 screen. To my surprise it works, i don’t see any difference but i’m going to switch it out just to be safe. True tone doesn’t work either ;(

Zachary Larkin - Contestar

I have just recently changed my lcd screen on my phone and it would turn on but then when it gets to the home screen it would turn black while still on. I know its on because I could have siri call people up and it would work but I just cant see anything. Help pls!

maria noy - Contestar

Home button is going to work or not? you guys got me all confused saying is tied to the logic board, but that i need to change it to make touch id to work on the new screen, so what a !&&*? :(

carloscaste - Contestar

You need to keep your original home button and transfer it carefully to the new display, exactly as stated in the guide. If you do that correctly, everything will work fine. You can safely ignore any commenters claiming otherwise; this is how it has worked ever since Touch ID first came out on the iPhone 5s.

Jeff Suovanen -

I used this screen to repair an iPhone 7 and the home button stopped working completely a week after the repair.

Casey Mills -

Hi,

Who had problems with four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor and three 1.2mm tri-point Y000 screws from either side of the display assembly ? They do not get out and break.

andreyshtepa888 - Contestar

Hello, i repaired the phone and after it would turn on but after awhile it would just start turning off randomly and wont charge past %16 what happened?

Parker Wruck - Contestar

Back camera not working after screen replacement. The front camera and sensor are ok. What could have happened?

Ida W - Contestar

Just completed the replacement and my phone won’t seem to power back on. Double checked the battery connection and the other connections without any results. Any idea where I may have gone wrong? Not sure if it matters but when the screen broke it pressed buttons non stop and locked itself out until connected to iTunes.

Thanks in advnce!

Eric Davis - Contestar

I installed a new display on an iPhone 7 because the original display was horribly cracked. The new display was functioning perfectly but after a few days, the digitizer stopped responding to any touch. I installed a second display and the problem went away, until a couple days later; when the digitizer stopped recognizing any touch again. Any thoughts as to why this is happening?

Nacho Camacho - Contestar

I’ve ordered 2 replacement kits from different companies and both came with an orange translucent sticker on the back of the screen. What is this for? Do I just remove it and toss it?

Also there's a little blue translucent plastic thing near the camera and sensors. Is this also just temporary for shipping?

Thirdly the screen ribbon cables cause the lcd shield to bulge up. This made it difficult to press the phone back together.

Do I squish it into submission?

Darren Jones - Contestar

@oldman_winter Those plastic stickers/liners are for temporary protection during stocking and shipping and should be removed. As for the cables, if manufactured and installed correctly, they shouldn’t be causing any bulges. Compare carefully with the original part and make extra sure you have the correct part for your specific model.

Jeff Suovanen -

After change display NFC doesn’t work. Can anybody help with this situation?

Антон Шорин - Contestar

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