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Had several power interruptions. When power came back on, system would dimly light up for 5-10 seconds, then go off. Can not turn it on using remote or button. Have tried unplugging, waiting 60 seconds, then trying again. No luck. It is a series 1 model. Bose says it no longer supports this model.
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@grunt11 LOL you see if it would have been an old Army guy (specially a retired Bundeswehr guy) he would have had the schematics :>) Steve, connect with your go-to guy and see if this will help. Page 22 should be of interest. Bose 321 Test proceduresBose 321 Schematics
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Will take this to him. This may do the trick. Thanks!
I did see when this 1st happened to my system and I looked it up and a man had said when you open the back of the subwoofer there’s the power board and his had stopped working same as mine and everyone is saying that theirs has stopped working as well and it has a fuse 2.5 amp fuse that fuse on his was shattered and broken and he just put a little piece of aluminum foil in the middle where the glass was or would have been and that his started working again and from everything that I have read or looked at or anyone I have talked to can’t find that actual fuse to replace it and talking to Bose is a waste of time and they just want you to buy a new system and the price is set up high enough and Bose brags enough that you would think that from what they say about their product and how much they cost that a surround system would last a young man his entire lifetime and his kids or grandkids could laugh at it 80 to 100 years later but like them ol record players they would still work and nice to
looking at the schematics it shows that it is a T2.5A fuse for USA (120V), Japan (100V) and dual 115/230V supplies and a 1.0A fuse for Europe (230V) Click on the schematics link above then go to p.14 top left side of schematic.
Just search for a T2.5A or 1.0A fuse with the voltage supply in your location which will fit into however the fuse is mounted e.g. if fuse soldered then get an 'axial' type fuse i.e. T2.5A 120V (or 250V) axial fuse or if fitted in a holder, T2.5A 120V glass fuse but you need to measure the distance between the connectors to get one that is the correct length.
The "T" is important as it indicates that it is a "slow blow" or "timed" fuse. These types of fuses are used when there is an initial high inrush current to the device when it is first connected to power. They will hold until the current has subsided whereas a standard (aka fast acting) fuse having the same rating would blow immediately. We're talking about only 1-2mS (milliseconds) before the current subsides.
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After similar experience, I disassembled my base unit and discovered a melt down of a capacitor on the main PC board. This is the message I sent to Bose:
Hi, Prior requests for support have not let me to a fix. Spare time has led me to try to repair my BOSE Unit myself. Disassembly reveals that I have a failed Nichicon capacitor, labelled 15000 µF, 25V, 22mm dia, 45 mm height & marked VZ(M) 105°C, in the main PC board. Photos are attached. It leaked a white sticky, pasty goo, apparently from the end opposite the pins, and appears melted to an amber colored resinous solid at the base. A 2nd similarly labeled capacitor in the unit, in the sub-board that attaches to the power, speaker & control unit, shows no similar leakage of white goo or resinous colored solid/ deformation at the base.
Using the finder at https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Component... which lead me to https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nic... , I think it is Mfr. #: UKT1E153MRD, Mfr.:Nichicon. I hope you will confirm the specification so I can order a new one and install it. I can solder, and it appears to be a straightforward replacement of a $6.23 part- what do I have to loose?
In exchange for your assistance, I free and release Bose from all liability.
The unit is a BOSE 321 series base module 321 GS Series II, bought at the Bose store in Manchester VT 12/28/2005, Customer serial # 03566695715622AZ, S/N 034200950062395AY.
Thanks
So far, no help from Bose. I'm searching for the replacement capacitor, will install it and see what happens…
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Hi,
There are no images attached with your answer. here's how to do this on Ifixit
It is the same procedure to add to answers as to add to questions Agregar imágenes a una pregunta existente.
Looking at the specifications for your listed replacement the only difference between it and the original seems to be the height of the capacitor, 50mm versus the 45mm you stated and possibly the lead spacing (not stated by you, but that can be more easily overcome) so hopefully that won't be a problem.
You could always try a similar value capacitor i.e. 15,000uF but with a ≥voltage rating and same °C rating if you have difficulty finding an exact value replacement. It is the capacitance value that is important and as long as the voltage rating is the same or greater it won't affect it.
I think that Bose's liability may have ended with the expiry of their warranty :-)
for some reason you have this wire disconnected.
Remove 6 screws from the bottom, take off top panel and connect the wire again. Picture included.
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Hi
I had similar problem. I can’t power it on.
I checked continuity on cables and power to unit. Everything is ok. I’ll check fusible, soon. This is something that I learned from previous questions. Let me know if you have solved your problem.
- de Walter Martin
Took my unit to my "go to" electronic expert. He had difficulty finding any Bose manuals to assist him. Said some stuff Bose does/did, was different from his training/experience (old Navy guy with decades of experience). He told me everything he tested was good - so problem is something he can't find without diagrams. I've tried holding various combinations of buttons in an effort to re-boot/reset, etc. Still comes on with a pale green light (no lettering), then fades out after about five minutes. Very disappointed with Bose.
- de Steve
I'm having the exact same problem. Did you guys ever have any luck finding a way to diagnose or repair?
- de Brittany German