Introducción
La extracción de la pantalla en un iMac Intel 27 "Retina 5K requiere cortar el adhesivo alrededor del perímetro de la pantalla. Una vez que se corta el adhesivo, no se puede utilizar para volver a sellar la pantalla en su lugar, por lo que deberá aplicar un nuevo juego de tiras adhesivas.
Qué necesitas
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Si estás reutilizando tu pantalla existente, también tienes que remover el adhesivo viejo de la parte trasera de la pantalla.
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Despega las tiras viejas de adhesivo utilizando pinzas o tus dedos. Comienza en la parte inferior y despegar para arriba hacia la parte superior del dispositivo.
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Luego de que se haya removido el adhesivo viejo, con cuidado limpia el área debajo del adhesivo con alcohol isopropílico de 90% (o más). Limpia en una dirección y no de atrás hacia adelante.
I've done this on several iMacs now, but today I noticed another layer of thin black plastic stuck to the back of the display.
It was really tough to remove and left a lot of clear, sticky goop under it.
It's really thin, but it was strong enough to hold the screen in place by itself - I reconnected the display cables and tested before pulling the backing off the new adhesive strips - and it stuck together!
I had to pry it apart again and it actually ripped my new glue strips in 2 or 3 places. I was able to still use them, but it did not go as smoothly as other iMacs I've upgraded. Everything was fine in the end, but I left some blue painters tape on the top of the screen overnight so the glue strips will set up without the screen falling off - just to be on the safe side.
Does anyone know if this last layer of black plastic on the screen should be removed or left in place when replacing the glue strips?
That Black layer of plastic should not be removed. I found that on some segments, upon peeling back old adhesive remnants, the thin black plastic layer would also begin to peel off. STOP and cut off what has been removed, separate the black plastic strip from the adhesive remnant you are peeling off. The continue removing remnants.
Are you sure that you’re not supposed to pull the black backing all the way off? I removed all the black strips before getting to this step.
IMHO: The rubbing alcohol is clutch for this step. There’s plenty of residue after pulling up the old adhesive and the 99% Isopropyl Alcohol really took the tacky remnants off.
To add on to the rubbing alcohol thing for removing residue, the alcohol doesn’t actually dissolve the adhesive residue, but softens it and makes it easier to get up. But you still have to actually remove it. I found that once you peel up the big pieces of adhesive, you’re still gonna have a some sticky residue. Here’s what worked for me:
1) You want to go section by section, using a clean piece of non-linty cloth wet with alcohol to get the glue residue nice and wet. As it says in the instructions, don’t wipe back and forth, but wipe the residue along in one direction instead of just spreading it around.
2) The plastic spudger that came with your repair kit (or the end of a credit card or something plastic that won’t cause damage) can be used as a little trowel to push the adhesive along and gather it up into a little booger-like hunk of goo.
3) At that point, you can wipe it off with a clean, dry piece of cloth. Why dry? Because it won’t really stick to the alcohol-soaked one but will stick to a dry cloth.
It still took me a solid half-hour easily to go along all the edges and get them as clean as possible. I had to go over some sections a few times. This might have been overkill, but I really really didn’t want to go through all this and then find that the new adhesive strips weren’t holding because there was old gunk I hadn’t removed.
The careful removal of the adhesive is very, very important. Take that from a guy who didn’t carefully remove the adhesive and was awakened in the middle of the night by the screen coming off of the iMac and crashing to the floor. That was a bad night.
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Con el spudger todavía asomando por el orificio de la tira adhesiva, empuja la punta del spudger en el orificio correspondiente en el marco de la iMac.
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Usando el orificio y el spudger para anclar la posición de la tira adhesiva, alinea la tira contra el borde derecho, suavemente jala hacia abajo contra el spudger para asegurar que la tira esté tensa, y pégala sobre el marco.
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Ábrete paso por el perímetro del iMac, añadiendo tres tiras adhesivas más de la misma manera.
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Trabajando en sentido antihorario desde la tira 13, coloque:
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la tira 12 en la parte superior derecha
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la tira 11 en la parte superior izquierda
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la tira 16 en la vertical izquierda.
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En la pantalla iMac Intel 27 "Retina 5K, las pestañas azules de la tira 12 no se alinearán con la antena superior de la misma forma que el modelo regular. Esto es perfectamente aceptable y no afectará el rendimiento de las tiras o la antena.
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Toma la lengüeta roja de film en la tira adhesiva 14 y tira para remover el respaldo de la tira.
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Alinea la tira en el borde inferior del gabinete trasero, directamente a la derecha del tornillo del medio en ese borde.
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Desliza tu dedo a lo largo del borde de la tira adhesiva para asegurarte de que esté derecha y desarrugada, presionando hacia abajo al deslizar la tira para adherirla a la iMac.
Using iFixIt’s adhesive strips, i cannot strip off the white backing. Pulling on the tab pulls the wrong backing off, the black backing. I can:t figure a way to do this correctly!
Same with mine, but carefully using a razor blade to separate the white side from the adhesive, leaving the clear side attached, then remove the white side and place accordingly.
Phill -
The video shows the correct method - attach these strips to the back of the screen rather than the iMac itself.
The Video can be found at macsales.com support site. Here’s the link:
https://eshop.macsales.com/installvideos...
got to 07:48
The instructions at this step need to be re-written. The Bullet point that says “Align the strip on the bottom edge of the rear enclosure” is misleading. Strips 14 and 15 are to be Placed on the Bottom Back Edge of the Display! Also note that the way these strips have been manufactured they are a bit funky. They will be placed with the DARK SIDE up, but the film covering the adhesive on these is tough to get properly separated, fortunately I had not cut my nails recently, so I was able to finally get it off after several minutes.
I did this step according to this written guide, and honestly the result was not good, plus it is much harder to put the display back on when the 14 and 15 strip adhesive is attached onto the computer.
The video (also from ifixit) shows the correct way, putting strip 14 and 15 on the LCD itself. Have done it like this on a previous iMac I had and the results were much more pleasing.
There is a problem with step 10 of this guide for 27” iMac 5K Display 2019! If you follow step 10 as it is, the iMac microphone port is blocked with adhesive. After following this guide I had to buy an extra set of adhesive strips and reopen my iMac to fix the muffled microphone problem! The correct application of the adhesives in step 10 is described in iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Adhesive Strips Replacement guide Reemplazo de las tiras adhesivas del iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017)
Please do update this guide accordingly!
LEARN FROM MY MISTAKE: Yes, the video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSChIAlX...) IS right on this step, but I did something stupid. I based the rest of my screen re-install based on the video, instead of using the rest of this guide (I know, I know, I should have read the whole thing first… I assumed this was the easy part after replacing my hard drive). All that to say, the video doesn’t include any of the helpful painters tape stuff, so I ended up eyeballing the screen with active adhesive, and it ended up slightly misaligned. When I saw the mistake, it was too late to change anything. It’s a very small error, but a noticeable one if you run your finger along the top of the glass, but I am still kicking myself for messing the final step up after an otherwise successful install.
Das Microphon befindet sich bei diesem Modell unten rechts über dem Apple Logo (3 Löcher): Nicht überkleben!
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Repita el paso previo para la tira adhesiva 15, colocándola a lo largo de la mitad izquierda del borde inferior de la iMac.
You've really got to pay particular attention to exactly where to stick these - especially the short right-angle part as it doesn't go on the back of the glass as you might expect but actually over part of the edge of the LCD. It's also really difficult to remove and reposition the stickers since they will stretch when pulling them off.
Das Microphon befindet sich bei diesem Modell unten rechts über dem Apple Logo (3 Löcher): Nicht überkleben!
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Suavemente coloca la pantalla en su lugar sobre la iMac y alinéala con cuidado.
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En este punto, es una buena idea probar tu reparación para asegurarte de que tu iMac funcione correctamente antes de volver a sellarla. Sigue los siguientes tres pasos para volver a conectar temporalmente los cables de la pantalla y reiniciar tu iMac antes de retirar la película protectora de las tiras adhesivas.
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Si ya has verificado que su iMac está funcionando correctamente y estás listo para sellarlo, ve al Paso 16.
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Inserta suavemente el conector de datos de la pantalla en su zócalo en la placa lógica. Asegúrate de presionarlo directamente en el zócalo e insertarlo completamente.
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Coloca el bloqueo del conector de datos de la pantalla en el zócalo.
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Insert el conector de alimentación de la pantalla en su zócalo en la placa lógica.
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Reconecta los cables de datos y de alimentación de la pantalla por última vez.
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Recuerda sujetar el soporte de retención de metal en el cable de datos de la pantalla.
Bonjour. Avez-vous des photos comment rebrancher le connecteur mâle - femelle côté écran ? De face ? Par le haut, par le bas ? Pas réussi à remettre. Merci
@pixelcabane Ce tutoriel n'est plus à jour. Veuillez consulter à la place https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem... et https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem... pour plus d'infos sur le remplacement de l'écran. Si cela ne vous aide pas, le mieux serait de poser votre question sur notre Forum (https://fr.ifixit.com/R%C3%A9ponses) prévu spécialement à cet effet. Là-bas, tous les membres de la communauté vous aideront à résoudre votre problème.
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Repite los pasos previos para remover las películas protectoras del resto de las tiras adhesivas restantes (etiquetadas 11, 12 y 13)
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Remueve la cinta que sujeta la pantalla al gabinete trasero.
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Para asegurar que se una bien, inclina la iMac con cuidado sobre su parte posterior (con la pantalla mirando hacia arriba) y presiona con cuidado pero firmemente alrededor de los cuatro bordes de la pantalla.
Cuidado en los iMac de 2017 y posteriores! Las dos entradas del micrófono están en la parte de abajo del marco (justo sobre la manzana). Si se dejan tapados por la cinta, los micros no funcionan! Hay que cortar la cinta justo por esos lugares, preferiblemente, solo sobre los pequeños orificios de entrada del sonido.
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24 comentarios
yes .it works
Does this work with iMac 27 2017?
Used these guides to replace the cpu and ssd’s in my 2015 iMac 27”. Super easy! And yes with a late 2015 model, the cpu is replaceable with a regular Skylake cpu. I bought a 3.2 i5 model and replaced with a 6700K ! And yes these also take 64GB of DDR3. For the PCIE SSD you can get an adapter off of ebay…look for m.2 to iMac adapter…since they’re cheap I recommend getting like 2-3 and figuring out which one works best with your m.2 ssd. So yeah, you can get a 1TB m.2 AND a 1TB 2.5” ssd in this and have a nice little box for peanuts.
Friends! This manual and accessories are compatible with the iMac 27 5K 2017?
Hi,
I done all of the above on my 2017 27inch iMac and now my microphone won’t work, when I tap the enclosure it reacts but it doesn’t hear my voice commands. Maybe the adhesive tape got stuck on the microphone somehow. where is the microphone located exactly? Help please……
Best regards, Henk
I have the same problem. Were you able to fix it?
I know this is an old question, but I wanted to post a followup so hopefully, no one else makes this mistake. The microphone is located on the lower edge. Here’s the thread that covers this better. Microphone very muffled after sealing up iMac
veenenen -
ottimo complimenti per i dettagli
guida superlativa e precisa grazie del vostro aiuto
I did it! Be very careful when you place the tape at the bottom of the screen. The screen can fall off! Also important to keep the imac standing and not laying on it’s back because it will make it hard to remove the bottom adhesives.
After following to the letter, the screen came off and went back on just fine. 5 days later (while setting in a cool environment) the screen just came unstuck and fell out sometime during the night, Of course it tore the two cables badly in addition to the antenna wires that must have gotten in the way somehow. Took most all day, but was able to the wifi and bluetooth wires back in place and the power cable (4 connector) plug back in. The hardest part was the ribbon cable. With high magnification hood on, was finally able to get it back in it’s socket. Had to tape it down to the rest of the board so it would stay. Used new sealant strips, then CLAMPED with spring clamps (around 12 of um) then laid it flat, screen up, then put it near a baseboard heater for two hours. Temp gun was around 100* all around it. Hopefully that won’t happen again!!
Excellent write up. Also, the detailed photos were super helpful in seeing the alignment.
The only hiccup I had was trying to remove the final tabs from strip 15 and 14 while the glass was blue taped down. I had to lift the weight of the glass panel off of the tab strips before they came off. Aside from that, a very smooth install, and very quality product. Thanks!
Make sure you totally clean both surfaces. The back of the display can be a real pain. I know someone who told me he replaced the PCI SSD and it all went smooth (same thing I did plus a SATA SSD and new thermal paste) but a few weeks later to his HORROR the 5k display was smashed on his office floor. Make sure to really clean and press on all sides. Keeping some painters tape on the top corners wouldn’t hurt either for a few weeks to make sure it seats well.
Thank you! Just completed this after an SSD upgrade to my 2015 iMac. Much appreciated Sam!
would be REALLY nice to have this linked on every single repair page. there was NO MENTION of replacing the adhesive strips at the end of the hard drive replacement guide, and i am now staring at a smashed LCD display that will set me back $600 to replace. very frustrating as I usually love ifixit guides. please consider adding a heavily red-flagged link to this guide and information to every guide that requires removing the display.
This was a super useful guide that formed the closing stage of repairing my old iMac 27” (late 2012). I replaced the power supply and upgraded to an SSD. Thank you so much for taking the time to prepare and improve these guides. They are invaluable and enabling.
Se me acaba de despegar a las 4 semanas de haberlo utilizado.
These instructions add a couple of steps that a well-known Mac accessory vendor's instructional video lacks: taping the screen closed to allow functional testing before you seal the adhesive, the upright positioning using the wedge, that makes it easier to set the bottom edge of the screen fully against the frame, and cleaning the backside of the camera opening before you close it up. All of these are valuable refinements.
I found that using a couple of paperbacks (one larger than the other) performed the same function - taller one placed to the rear of the stand and the other one in front accommodated the curvature perfectly.
robinsnaddon - Contestar
For point 10 of this guide: iMac 27” 2017 has a relocated microphone position, so if you follow this guide, the mic ist not working after applying the tape.
Make sure to let the microphone out, its located on the lower edge, right of the apple.
Also the tape Stips on the upper edge are 2mm too long, and on the upper right it does not fit to the antenna area, so they have to be shortened and cut in the right shape.
maccy - Contestar