Qué necesitas
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Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar cada uno de los cuatro conectores de antena de la tarjeta AirPort / Bluetooth.
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Lo más a la izquierda
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Arriba
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Arriba a la derecha
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Abajo a la derecha
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Voltea hacia arriba el soporte de retención de metal en el cable de la cámara iSight.
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Tira del conector del cable de la cámara hacia fuera de su zócalo, hacia la parte superior del iMac.
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Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector del cable del conector de auriculares de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
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Aparta suavemente el cable fuera del camino.
On my 2017 iMac there is a tiny little cable and connector on the motherboard that is approximately half way along the motherboard and is connected down towards the base of the case. It came free easily when I removed my motherboard but just wanted to remind people to reconnect!
It’s the microphone cable!
Lift upwards with the spudger/fingernail, rocking it up back and forth.
(For those who have not seen this style of connector.)
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Quita los siguientes tornillos de la parte frontal de la placa lógica:
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Dos tornillos T10 de 23.7 mm
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Cuatro tornillos T10 de 7.4 mm
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Un tornillo T25 de 20.8 mm
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Un tornillo cautivo T10
The central screw is very difficult to reach! Use a long and very thin T10 screw driver
On my late 2015 there is another T10 (approx 16 mm long) on the lower edge slightly left of the hole in the logic board giving a total of 4 screws along the bottom edge.
My 2017 has small flat cable and connector on logic board. And all screws are changed to T 9
My 2017 had all T8’s, including the captive screw beneath the motherboard
Late 2015 iMac - mine had all T8 screws and 4 along the bottom row
On 2019 iMac
Red = T8
Orange = T8
Green = T8
Yellow = T25
In 2017 too.
2017 here.
IMPORTANT - note Tanya’s comment. The narrow flat cable in the middle - it’s the mic cable on a *tiny* ZIF. See Reemplazo de Placa Lógica del iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017)
Also has the extra bolt middle lower edge.
All T8 except the yellow T25.
In my iMac 27” retina 2015 all screws are T8.
There is also an another T8 screw between the left and central “orange” on bottom of the CPU board
Just completed and removed logic board. All my screws were T6. The screw beneath is a captive screw, stays retained in the fixture after unscrewing.
There is a 25T stand off that is not listed. It is not on the board but beside or underneath the yellow/red on power supply side.
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Tira del cable y el conector a través del soporte derecho del disco duro. Mueve el cable al lado derecho del iMac, fuera del puerto de escape.
Anyone know if models that shipped with only a bladed SSD have the SATA cable still inside? I’m guessing probably not, but haven’t been able to confirm anywhere.
The cable was so stiff, I didn’t try to pull it through the bracket. Instead I removed the upper screw holding the right HDD bracket in place. Then I rotated it counter clockwise enough to just move the cable behind it and out of the way. Once I did that, I screwed the bracket back into place. I reversed the process when I put the machine back together. It’s a Torx-10 BTW.
Excellent tip, Kenneth! I did the same, made things easier.
Jesse, no SATA cable inside. My iMac came only with the blade SSD and an empty HDD bay, so I have to buy the SATA cable separately.
the card drive cable is affixed to the heat sink with some sort of adhesive. If it is not placed back similarly, the system cannot sense the heat sink temperature, and the fan will run at full speed continuously. I used double sided tape and pushed it back in adhered position after re-attaching logic board.
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Quita los dos tornillos T10 de 5,7 mm de la parte superior del conducto de escape del disipador de calor.
My model (2015) had another screw holding the heatsink duct and a stand-off holding the whole thing attached to the back. Even gently moving the logic board almost got the duct damaged till I realised what was going on so I’d suggest to be careful and DO NOT pull the logic board if it looks like it’s still attached - most likely it is!
Carlos,
I am at a bit of a loss. I have a 2015 as well and removed everything else, but the motherboard is still not moving. I found the two, as shown in the picture, but can't find a third one anywhere on or around the heatsink duct. Any help is sincerely appreciated.
Marc
MarcW58 -
Ditto for the 2013 27”. One extra screw
My model 2546 late 2012 has 2 screws on heat sink shroud. First is on left side. The right can only be accessed with board tilted out a bit.
I just finished disassembling a late 2017 27” Retina and for the life of me I couldn’t get the logic board to come out. What. I discovered was that there is a part of the heat sink shroud that is held in place by a stand off boss for the power supply. You will need to remove the stand off boss using a T25. Remove carefully and save for reassembly…
Same here for late 2014.
Yes, there is a screw holding down the fan shroud it is an angled black part where the guy's left hand index finger is located in Step 56
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Inclina la placa lógica ligeramente hacia adelante.
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Levanta la placa lógica hacia arriba y hacia afuera del iMac. Ten cuidado de no enganchar en ninguno de los postes de tornillo unidos al interior de la carcasa trasera.
The 2017 iMac has a small cable with a ZIF connector coming from the bottom of the machine that needs to be detached from the logic board before it can be removed.
I can confirm this. As i recognized the cable after i removed the logic board i had some trouble to find the spot where to plug it in.
If you are having a hard time removing it, you might have forgot to remove the spacer rod when you removed all the motherboard screws. In my case, it was a T20. This is in my late 2015 the case. Just like Eric said 11-01-2020.
Same for late 2012. For those curious the spacer is just to the left and appears to attach to the heat sink.
The iMac 27” didn’t come with the PCIe SSD card so of course there wasn’t the necessary screw to mount one.
Here is the screw to order;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283482947478?ch...
What I did was find a screw that fit. Happened to be the case screw from the iFixit external 2.5” case but since that was a countersunk screw, I fabricated a washer for it.
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Cuando reensambles tu iMac, ten mucho cuidado de alinear los puertos de E / S exteriores correctamente. La placa lógica puede quedar torcida incluso cuando está asegurada con todos sus tornillos.
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Puede usar una unidad flash USB o un cable de Ethernet para asegurarte de que la placa lógica esté asentada correctamente mientras la atornilla.
To help me line up the IO ports, I filled all the USB ports on the back with thumb drives before I screwed the Logic board back down. Worked like a charm!
Thanks Alex :)
iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, 2017) の場合、Thunderbolt 3（USB-C）ポートの位置がシビアです。
Ethernet、USB 3ポート、Thunderbolt 3（USB-C）へ最低でも各１本（合計３本）を差し込んだままの状態でロジックボードのネジを閉めるようにすることを強くおすすめします。
EthernetケーブルとUSBメモリの２本を挿して調整し組み上げましたが、最終的にThunderbolt 3（USB-C）が刺さらないことが後で判明し、結果組み直しをしなくてはいけませんでした。
For iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, 2017), the location of the Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) port is severe.
It is highly recommended to close the logic board screws with at least one cable each (total of three) plugged into the Ethernet, USB 3 port, and Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C).
I plugged in two Ethernet cables and a USB memory stick, adjusted and assembled the board, but in the end I found out later that the Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) would not stick, so I had to reassemble the board.
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
貴重な情報ありがとうございました！
I do this job fairly frequently and I have a small box in my iMac tool kit containing a headphone jack, four USB drives, a short two-ended Thunderbolt cable and the end of a red moulded Ethernet cable to keep things aligned from the back when screwing the logic board back into place.
I loosely screw all the screws in, then tighten them gradually, going round the board several times to make sure it lands in exactly the right position.
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Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue las instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue las instrucciones en orden inverso.
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My iMac has a slightly different assembly. There are 2 - T5 torx screws holding little clamps for each cable (2 clamps per screw). Certainly more secure but another size screw to deal with…
Greg Freeman - Contestar
My iMac also same with Greg mentioned. need to T5 torx driver. A1419. Late 2015, Korean Version.
Joseph Yang - Contestar
My 2017 has long WI-Fi card, It’s It’s a M.2, cuz no remove antenna. Undo WI-Fi card fix screws and pull out card. Easy one.
Tanya Chachanova - Contestar
Before I disconnect the cables, I use different color sharpies and draw a different color on each one’s head & then I take a picture of the cables connected to the board. Pic is my reference of which cable goes to what connector.
Macrepair SF - Contestar
I have a 2017 and I agree with Tanya. There are 2 T4 screws fastening the airport card to the motherboard. It’s easier to remove these and gently pull the airport card straight up out of the motherboard while leaving the 4 antenna wires fastened. You can’t see the connector or the airport card as it’s on the back side of the motherboard but just wiggle it side to side while pulling straight up and you’ll have no problem. I’ve broken off those tiny airport connectors in the past and it’s no fun replacing them.
Mike Jones - Contestar
same as Greg, did with the torx t5
Alejandro Piris Nino - Contestar
I have a 2019 iMac and we needed to use a T4 screw
Mike Manasewitsch - Contestar
My late 2015 has a Airport/Bluetooth card secured with two T5 screws. After removing them you can just wiggle and unplug it from the logic board, without needing to fiddle with the antenna connectors.
Robin Gottschalk - Contestar
Same as the other comments, in my iMac 27” retina 2015, the WiFi/Bluetooth board is a bit longer and the 4 coax cables are fixed by 2 T5 screws…
SURIN Dominique - Contestar
When reassembling a removed WiFi card keep 4 antenna leads attached as mentioned by poster (tanya et al) when reassembling as you replace logic board keeping it tilted forward helps in aligning the notch on card for easy reassembly and T3 screws replacingonce card is firmly seated.
robert - Contestar
When reassembling a removed WiFi card keep 4 antenna leads attached as mentioned by poster (tanya et al) when reassembling as you replace logic board keeping it tilted forward helps in aligning the notch on card for easy reassembly and T3 screws replacingonce card is firmly seated.
robert - Contestar
Can also confirm it for a Late 2015 iMac, there’s just 2 T3 screws to remove, simple move out the WiFi/Bluetooth board and let cable on place.
tomax - Contestar