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Introducción

Usa esta guía para quitar o reemplazar una placa lógica defectuosa en tu iPhone 7 Plus.

Es importante tener en cuenta que la placa lógica en tu iPhone 7 Plus y el sensor de huella digital Touch ID se emparejan en fábrica, por lo que reemplazar la placa lógica desactivará Touch ID a menos que también instalará un botón de inicio de reemplazo que se haya emparejado correctamente con tu placa lógica nueva.

  1. Antes de comenzar, descarga la batería de tu iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de litio cargada puede prenderse fuego y/o explotar si se la pincha accidentalmente.
    • Antes de comenzar, descarga la batería de tu iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de litio cargada puede prenderse fuego y/o explotar si se la pincha accidentalmente.

    • Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.

    • Retira los dos tornillos pentalobe de 3,4 mm del borde inferior del Iphone.

    • Abrir la pantalla del iPhone pondrá en peligro sus sellos a prueba de agua. Ten especial cuidado de no exponer tu iPhone a daños por líquidos después de completar su reparación.

    The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

    pargoff - Contestar

    The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

    Ben Meinhart - Contestar

    Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

    Vanessa Pinter - Contestar

    How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

    adam - Contestar

    The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???

    lkollar - Contestar

    Instructions for replacing the seal are here: Reemplazo Adhesivo de Pantalla iPhone

    bester - Contestar

    I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.

    Charles Meitin - Contestar

    Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.

    My favourites are:

    Use a hot water bottle.

    Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.

    Test the lightning assembly at step 13

    There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.

    etc...

    Neil Eriksen - Contestar

  2. Calentar el borde inferior del iPhone ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, facilitando la apertura.
    • Calentar el borde inferior del iPhone ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, facilitando la apertura.

    • Usa un secador de pelo o prepare un iOpener y aplíquelo en el borde inferior del iPhone durante aproximadamente un minuto para suavizar el adhesivo que se encuentra debajo.

    How long should I use a hairdryer for?

    Warren Binder - Contestar

    I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.

    gczarny -

    Hey, I just took apart my first iPhone 7 plus today, and it was easier for me to use guitar picks and a magic glass tool. I did tear the home flex on the screen—now I know to be more careful of that on disassembly—-~Katrina of iPad Rehab Microsoldering

    jessabethany - Contestar

    First I tried to remove the screen with the hot iOpener, but it doesn’t worked, the day after I putted the Iphone in the sun for a while and then used the hot iOpener, then the screen was easy to remove :-)

    Marc Boon - Contestar

    Get a T-shirt add heat to a lil corner of it, with either a hair straighter or an Iron , touch the T-shirt if it’s seems hot but doesn’t burn u hold that lil hot piece of T-shirt against the edge ur trying to pry open , if it’s still not opening add a I’ll more heat,

    www.tertlegerl - Contestar

    I don’t think the iOpener was effective at softening the adhesive. Using a suction cup and the spudger is good enough.

    Mac - Contestar

    I took a hot water bottle and layed it on the display of the iPhone for a minute, because I did not have an iOpener. That worked for me perfect.

    Michael Maier - Contestar

  3. Aplica una ventosa en la mitad inferior del panel frontal, justo encima del botón de inicio. Asegúrate de que la ventosa no se superponga con el botón de inicio, ya que esto evitará que se forme un sello entre la ventosa y el vidrio frontal.
    • Aplica una ventosa en la mitad inferior del panel frontal, justo encima del botón de inicio.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa no se superponga con el botón de inicio, ya que esto evitará que se forme un sello entre la ventosa y el vidrio frontal.

    • Si tu pantalla está seriamente partida, cubrirla con una capa de cinta de embalar transparente puede ayudar en el agarre de la ventosa de succión. Alternativamente, se puede usar una cinta muy fuerte en lugar de la ventosa. Si todo lo demás falla, puedes pegar la ventosa de succión con superglue a la pantalla rota.

    Hi! My suction cup doesn’t work. It won’t strongly suck on my screen. Does anyone have any advice?

    kaiminliu119 - Contestar

    Heat it up just a little with a hair dryer make sure it’s flat , let it coo a bit now try it??

    robertread - Contestar

    The suction cup you provide sucks. In that it doesn’t hold. Luckily I had a set of heavy duty suction cups from when I worked on my iMac.

    Charles Meitin - Contestar

  4. Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa con una presión firme y constante para crear un pequeño espacio entre el panel frontal y la carcasa trasera. Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger en el espacio. El adhesivo hermético que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar es muy fuerte; crear esta brecha inicial requiere una gran cantidad de fuerza. Si te resulta difícil abrir un espacio, mueve la pantalla hacia arriba y hacia abajo para debilitar el adhesivo hasta que pueda colocar un spudger en su interior.
    • Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa con una presión firme y constante para crear un pequeño espacio entre el panel frontal y la carcasa trasera.

    • Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger en el espacio.

    • El adhesivo hermético que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar es muy fuerte; crear esta brecha inicial requiere una gran cantidad de fuerza. Si te resulta difícil abrir un espacio, mueve la pantalla hacia arriba y hacia abajo para debilitar el adhesivo hasta que pueda colocar un spudger en su interior.

    • Mientras tira de la ventosa, gira el spudger para ensanchar la abertura entre la pantalla y la carcasa trasera.

    Be very careful not to pull up with too much force. My screen just shattered while I was pulling up with my suction cup. (There were no previous cracks or chips or anything).

    Benjamin Pounds - Contestar

    I’m stuck on this part. I’ve heated the bottom up and attached the suction cup right above the home button, but I can’t pull it apart. I feel like I’m going to break the glass display. Tips?

    whtafrcn420 - Contestar

    Someone mentioned above, using strong tape helps .

    MajorCouillon - Contestar

    You won’t be able to put the spudger into the gap unless the phone is in a vertical position (speaker side up) in your hands.

    Mac - Contestar

    read steps 4-9 before attempting. I cracked my glass because I didn’t

    David Lei - Contestar

    My first 7 Plus opening. I pulled up the screen just enough to insert a thin guitar pick at the bottom of the phone to break the adhesive. I didn’t even create a gap as such. I then ran the pick along the sides to continue to detach the adhesive, just like iFixIt show in Step 10 for the top of the phone.

    My screen already had a crack at the bottom, near the home button, so I was nervous about pulling too hard on the screen. It had a screen protector fitted so maybe that helped keep it all together.

    iFixIt’s use of a spudger at the bottom of the phone looked hazardous to me, especially with my damaged screen.

    Big Ed - Contestar

    This must be a joke. I’ve been trying for days to pull open the iphone like this. Doesn’t work. I bent the ring on the suction cup trying to pull it off, but nothing happens, no gap, not remote possibility of a pick or spudger getting in there.

    James Osborne - Contestar

    Ended up using a blowdryer and a razor blade. Bottom got scratched up, but there was no way that fat plastic spudger was going to fit. I got the razor under the corner, from there worked to middle and twisted with repeatedly adding heat. Lots of heat.

    James Osborne - Contestar

  5. Inserta el extremo plano del spudger entre el panel frontal y la carcasa trasera en el borde inferior izquierdo del iPhone. Desliza el spudger por el borde izquierdo del teléfono comenzando en el borde inferior y moviéndose hacia los botones de control de volumen y el interruptor silencioso, rompiendo el adhesivo que mantiene la pantalla en su lugar. No intentes sacar el borde superior de la pantalla de la carcasa posterior, ya que se sujeta con clips de plástico que se pueden romper.
    • Inserta el extremo plano del spudger entre el panel frontal y la carcasa trasera en el borde inferior izquierdo del iPhone.

    • Desliza el spudger por el borde izquierdo del teléfono comenzando en el borde inferior y moviéndose hacia los botones de control de volumen y el interruptor silencioso, rompiendo el adhesivo que mantiene la pantalla en su lugar.

    • No intentes sacar el borde superior de la pantalla de la carcasa posterior, ya que se sujeta con clips de plástico que se pueden romper.

  6. Retira el spudger del lado izquierdo del teléfono e inserta el extremo plano en la esquina inferior derecha. Desliza el spudger por el borde derecho del teléfono hasta la esquina superior, rompiendo el adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar.
    • Retira el spudger del lado izquierdo del teléfono e inserta el extremo plano en la esquina inferior derecha.

    • Desliza el spudger por el borde derecho del teléfono hasta la esquina superior, rompiendo el adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar.

  7. Tira de la ventosa  para así levantar la pantalla y abrir el iPhone No levantes la pantalla mas de 10º, hay pequeños cables cinta a lo largo del borde derecho de la pantalla que conectan la pantalla a la placa lógica.
    • Tira de la ventosa para así levantar la pantalla y abrir el iPhone

    • No levantes la pantalla mas de 10º, hay pequeños cables cinta a lo largo del borde derecho de la pantalla que conectan la pantalla a la placa lógica.

    The ribbon cable part should be said earlier instead of halfway through

    I just broke one because of it

    BrenX1 - Contestar

  8. Tira hacia arriba de la pequeña protuberancia en la ventosa para sacarla del panel frontal. Tira hacia arriba de la pequeña protuberancia en la ventosa para sacarla del panel frontal.
    • Tira hacia arriba de la pequeña protuberancia en la ventosa para sacarla del panel frontal.

  9. Desliza una selección de apertura debajo de la pantalla a lo largo del borde superior del teléfono para aflojar el último adhesivo. Desliza una selección de apertura debajo de la pantalla a lo largo del borde superior del teléfono para aflojar el último adhesivo.
    • Desliza una selección de apertura debajo de la pantalla a lo largo del borde superior del teléfono para aflojar el último adhesivo.

  10. Tira del ensamblaje de la pantalla ligeramente hacia afuera desde el borde superior del teléfono para desenganchar los clips que lo sujetan a la caja posterior. Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la tapa posterior de un libro. No intentes separar por completo la pantalla todavía, ya que varios cables de cinta frágiles aún la conectan a la placa lógica del iPhone.
    • Tira del ensamblaje de la pantalla ligeramente hacia afuera desde el borde superior del teléfono para desenganchar los clips que lo sujetan a la caja posterior.

    • Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la tapa posterior de un libro.

    • No intentes separar por completo la pantalla todavía, ya que varios cables de cinta frágiles aún la conectan a la placa lógica del iPhone.

    So if I broke the cable that connects the display to the logic board. What replacement part would I need to order now?

    Robert Danson - Contestar

    Probably the screen

    Christian Sirolli -

  11. Retira los siguientes cuatro tornillos Y000 de tres puntos que sujetan el soporte del cable de la pantalla inferior a la placa lógica:
    • Retira los siguientes cuatro tornillos Y000 de tres puntos que sujetan el soporte del cable de la pantalla inferior a la placa lógica:

    • Tres tornillos de 1.2 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.6 mm

    Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

    u204863 - Contestar

    Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.

    Mark -

    The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

    shannon caldwell - Contestar

    At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

    LadyTech - Contestar

    I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

    Katherine Monday - Contestar

    @katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    my screwdriver will only remove the 2.6mm screw and not the others, what shall i do?

    AubreyG1 - Contestar

    A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!

    Trey Smith - Contestar

    STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.

    John Grant - Contestar

    i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.

    Tina Matthews - Contestar

  12. Retira el soporte del cable de la pantalla inferior. Retira el soporte del cable de la pantalla inferior.
    • Retira el soporte del cable de la pantalla inferior.

    I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    chris west - Contestar

    If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

    Scott Havard - Contestar

    Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol

    Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.

    jeffrey griffith - Contestar

    I had to use a fingernail to dislodge the bracket. As Jeffrey said, it was apparently stuck to the connector.

    lkollar - Contestar

  13. Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Dobla el cable del conector ligeramente hacia arriba para evitar que haga contacto con el zócalo y suministre energía al teléfono. Dobla el cable del conector ligeramente hacia arriba para evitar que haga contacto con el zócalo y suministre energía al teléfono.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Dobla el cable del conector ligeramente hacia arriba para evitar que haga contacto con el zócalo y suministre energía al teléfono.

    You could cover the battery socket with a small piece of tape to make sure that it doesn’t accidentally re-connect. It’s not likely to, but I liked the peace of mind.

    Mark - Contestar

    on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.

    Sarr Sheffer - Contestar

    I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.

    MajorCouillon - Contestar

    After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.

    Evan O - Contestar

  14. Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o volver a conectar los cables en este paso. Usa el extremo plano de un spudger o una uña para desconectar los dos conectores de pantalla inferior levantándolos de sus enchufes en la placa lógica. Para volver a colocar los conectores de prensa, presione hacia abajo en un extremo hasta que encaje en su lugar, luego repita en el otro extremo. No presione hacia abajo en el medio. Si el conector está ligeramente desalineado, el conector puede doblarse, causando daños permanentes.
    • Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o volver a conectar los cables en este paso.

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger o una uña para desconectar los dos conectores de pantalla inferior levantándolos de sus enchufes en la placa lógica.

    • Para volver a colocar los conectores de prensa, presione hacia abajo en un extremo hasta que encaje en su lugar, luego repita en el otro extremo. No presione hacia abajo en el medio. Si el conector está ligeramente desalineado, el conector puede doblarse, causando daños permanentes.

    • Si tienes una pantalla negra, líneas blancas en la pantalla o una falta total o parcial de respuesta táctil luego de reensamblar tu teléfono, trata de desconectar y con cuidado reconectar ambos cables y asegurarte de que estén bien encajados.

    The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

    Talon - Contestar

    What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?

    Alextay - Contestar

    Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….

    Darius Varanavičius -

    what are my options if the display connector broke? can it be replaced or do I need to get a whole new screen?

    matomach - Contestar

    When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.

    Grant Crawford - Contestar

    My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol

    Joshua Driscoll - Contestar

    have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…

    ibisiki -

    Bent the pins on the connector out of place, worked them very carefully back with fine nose tweezers. This was by far the crux of the repair for me.

    nicO - Contestar

  15. Retira los tres tornillos triples Y000 que aseguran el soporte sobre el conector del conjunto del sensor del panel frontal: Un tornillo de 1.3 mm Dos tornillos de 1.0 mm
    • Retira los tres tornillos triples Y000 que aseguran el soporte sobre el conector del conjunto del sensor del panel frontal:

    • Un tornillo de 1.3 mm

    • Dos tornillos de 1.0 mm

    • Retira el soporte.

    Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

    chris west - Contestar

    I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

    mcr4u2 - Contestar

    What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?

    assweeetasyou - Contestar

    Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!

    Wayne Lyell -

    Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +

    Jeremiah Kjensmo - Contestar

    I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction

    Kayla Tobin -

    Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?

    alicenine84 - Contestar

    Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.

    Benji - Contestar

    I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.

    Stephen Patterson -

    I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?

    I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.

    My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.

    Would appreciate any advice!

    jrosegoep - Contestar

    Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob

    Robert Schmidt - Contestar

  16. Desconecta el conector del conjunto del sensor del panel frontal de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Este conector de prensa también debe reconectarse de un extremo a la vez para minimizar el riesgo de flexión.
    • Desconecta el conector del conjunto del sensor del panel frontal de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Este conector de prensa también debe reconectarse de un extremo a la vez para minimizar el riesgo de flexión.

    Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!

    Kevin Reilly - Contestar

    Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.

    Lukas Watts -

    That's save my life!thanks god!

    neg -

    I also made this mistake! Thank goodness it didn’t break anything.

    That Guy - Contestar

  17. Retira el ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.

    Benji - Contestar

    Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!

    Robert O'Brien - Contestar

    is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.

    jacobra - Contestar

  18. Retire tres tornillos Phillips que sujetan el componente de la antena:
    • Retire tres tornillos Phillips que sujetan el componente de la antena:

    • Dos tornillos de 1.3 mm

    • Un tornillo de 1.2 mm

    It is not necessary to remove the logic board. remove the three standoff screws and the simcard holder and push back the sim ejector pin and you can lift the logic board up about 7mm. with isopropyl to loosen the adhesive, slide a spudger under the old charge port cable you can easily slide it out. Makes the job a lot easier and quicker.

    Jack - Contestar

    Thanks Jack,

    Followed your advice and saves a fair bit of work.

    Drew McCluskey - Contestar

    To each it’s own, but it was much better for me once I went through the steps and took the logic board off. It’s not hard. Without taking the board off, I found that the logic board is just too rigid to easily lift it up by 7mm. Plus the old Lightning Port assembly is stuck on the case pretty strong and putting the new one in with the adhesive and lining it up correctly would be impossible for me without the logic board clear out of the way. My personal recommendation is to stick to the script on this iFixit process.

    S C - Contestar

  19. Retire el tornillo Phillips de 1,3 mm que sujeta el componente de la antena al borde superior de la carcasa trasera.
    • Retire el tornillo Phillips de 1,3 mm que sujeta el componente de la antena al borde superior de la carcasa trasera.

    This screw is slightly larger than the other 1.3mm ones. Don't mix it up like me.

    vinicius.edson - Contestar

  20. El tornillo en la parte superior del componente de la antena está metido en un pequeño hueco en el borde superior del iPhone. . Inclina el componente de antena hacia la parte superior del teléfono. Deslice la cabeza del tornillo hacia abajo y fuera de su rebaje
    • El tornillo en la parte superior del componente de la antena está metido en un pequeño hueco en el borde superior del iPhone. .

    • Inclina el componente de antena hacia la parte superior del teléfono.

    • Deslice la cabeza del tornillo hacia abajo y fuera de su rebaje

  21. Retire el componente de la antena superior izquierda.
    • Retire el componente de la antena superior izquierda.

  22. Inserte una herramienta de expulsión de tarjeta SIM o un clip en el pequeño orificio de la bandeja de la tarjeta SIM. Presione firmemente para expulsar la bandeja.
    • Inserte una herramienta de expulsión de tarjeta SIM o un clip en el pequeño orificio de la bandeja de la tarjeta SIM.

    • Presione firmemente para expulsar la bandeja.

  23. Retire la bandeja de la tarjeta SIM del iPhone. La tarjeta SIM se caerá fácilmente de la bandeja. Cuando reinserte la tarjeta SIM, asegúrese de que esté en la orientación correcta con respecto a la bandeja.
    • Retire la bandeja de la tarjeta SIM del iPhone.

    • La tarjeta SIM se caerá fácilmente de la bandeja.

    • Cuando reinserte la tarjeta SIM, asegúrese de que esté en la orientación correcta con respecto a la bandeja.

    • Una junta de goma delgada alrededor de la bandeja SIM proporciona protección contra el agua y el polvo. Si esta junta está dañada o falta, reemplace la junta para proteger los componentes internos de su iPhone.

  24. Usa una herramienta de apertura iFixit o una uña para desconectar los conectores del cable de doble cámara levantándolos de sus enchufes. Usa una herramienta de apertura iFixit o una uña para desconectar los conectores del cable de doble cámara levantándolos de sus enchufes. Usa una herramienta de apertura iFixit o una uña para desconectar los conectores del cable de doble cámara levantándolos de sus enchufes.
    • Usa una herramienta de apertura iFixit o una uña para desconectar los conectores del cable de doble cámara levantándolos de sus enchufes.

    • Retira los dos tornillos que aseguran el soporte de la cámara orientado hacia atrás:

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 1,6 mm

    • Un tornillo de separación de 2,2 mm

    • Los tornillos de separación se eliminan mejor utilizando un Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones

    • En caso de apuro, un destornillador pequeño de cabeza plana hará el trabajo, pero tenga mucho cuidado para asegurarse de que no resbale y dañe los componentes circundantes.

    Why is there a standoff screw here? No other screw goes into it so why not have a Phillips?

    Trevor Smith - Contestar

    More to the point, why doesn’t the Ifixit tool kit for this job come with the bit required?

    John Tinsley - Contestar

    Second that, sitting here trying to figure out how to get it out.

    Jeffrey Wilhelm -

    iFixit kits do come with all the required bits, but sometimes specialty bits like this one are packed into a different part of the box. Unpack the entire kit and you should find it. In the unlikely event that it really is missing due to a packing error, contact customer support and they’ll send you the missing bit ASAP.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I strongly urge Ifixit to change this comment “In a pinch, a flathead screwdriver will do the job” - maybe ok for REMOVAL ONLY, but for REASSEMBLY - it is very dangerous - i used a flathead while fixing my daughters phone and they kept going crooked - easily causing me 1-2 hours of frustration and STRIPPING THE THREADS IN THE ALUMINUM BACK FRAME BODY !!!!

    I had to hot glue a couple spots and skip several screws on reassembly to do the jankiest, most embarrasing repair job - BUY THE RIGHT SPECIAL TOOL FOR THE STANDOFF SCREWS OR YOU’LL REGRET IT!!!

    treadmillfix - Contestar

    There is no tool for this special screw. What gives?

    Jacob DeShazo - Contestar

    My kit has the standoff bit, just wasn't in the tool tray, it was loose in the box with another bit.

    Neil Eriksen - Contestar

  25. Retira el soporte que cubre la cámara trasera.
    • Retira el soporte que cubre la cámara trasera.

  26. Retira los dos tornillos Phillips de 1.3 mm que sujetan el soporte superior del cable.
    • Retira los dos tornillos Phillips de 1.3 mm que sujetan el soporte superior del cable.

  27. Retira el soporte del cable superior.
    • Retira el soporte del cable superior.

  28. Retira los dos tornillos Phillips de 1.3 mm que sujetan el clip de conexión a tierra en el borde superior izquierdo de la placa lógica.
    • Retira los dos tornillos Phillips de 1.3 mm que sujetan el clip de conexión a tierra en el borde superior izquierdo de la placa lógica.

  29. Retira el clip de conexión a tierra.
    • Retira el clip de conexión a tierra.

  30. Retira el tornillo Phillips de 1.3 mm que sujeta el cable flexible de la antena al borde superior de la caja trasera del iPhone.
    • Retira el tornillo Phillips de 1.3 mm que sujeta el cable flexible de la antena al borde superior de la caja trasera del iPhone.

    This step is when you will also need to remove a second screw on the antenna flex cable, below and left of the circled screw.

    Evan O - Contestar

    Evan O is right! There is a 2.0 mm Standoff screw right below; and possibly slightly left, of the top 1.3 mm Phillips screw. It should actually show up in Step 15 as soon as the bracket is removed. Rob

    Robert Schmidt - Contestar

  31. Usa el extremo afilado de una herramienta de apertura iFixit para levantar y desconectar el conector del cable flexible de la antena de la placa lógica. Usa el extremo afilado de una herramienta de apertura iFixit para levantar y desconectar el conector del cable flexible de la antena de la placa lógica.
    • Usa el extremo afilado de una herramienta de apertura iFixit para levantar y desconectar el conector del cable flexible de la antena de la placa lógica.

  32. Desliza el borde plano de un spudger debajo del cable flexible de la antena para separar el adhesivo que lo sujeta en su lugar. Desliza el borde plano de un spudger debajo del cable flexible de la antena para separar el adhesivo que lo sujeta en su lugar.
    • Desliza el borde plano de un spudger debajo del cable flexible de la antena para separar el adhesivo que lo sujeta en su lugar.

  33. El tornillo en la parte superior del cable flexible de la antena está metido en un pequeño rebaje en el borde superior del iPhone. Inclina el cable flexible de la antena hacia la parte superior del iPhone. Desliza la cabeza del tornillo hacia abajo y fuera de su rebaje.
    • El tornillo en la parte superior del cable flexible de la antena está metido en un pequeño rebaje en el borde superior del iPhone.

    • Inclina el cable flexible de la antena hacia la parte superior del iPhone.

    • Desliza la cabeza del tornillo hacia abajo y fuera de su rebaje.

    • Retira el cable flexible de la antena.

    What is underneath the Antena flex Cable?

    Robert Schmidt - Contestar

    I’m still waiting for response. Someone had the nerve to ask me, ‘Which Antena flex Cable?’ with response.

    Robert Schmidt - Contestar

    IfixIt: I need You to clarify something I just descovered. I just received different iPhone 7 Plus and Antena flex cable came off and left Standoff screw still on logic board. Different iPhone 7 Plus actually has Standoff screw attached to cable in way it’s impossible to separate.

    Rob

    Robert Schmidt - Contestar

  34. Usa una herramienta de palanca delgada o pinzas para levantar y desconectar cuidadosamente los dos conectores del cable coaxial de la placa lógica. Durante el reensamblaje, pueden ser difíciles de reconectar. Uno a la vez, sostén cada conector en su lugar sobre su zócalo y presiona hacia abajo con la parte plana de su spudger. El conector debe encajar en su lugar. Durante el reensamblaje, pueden ser difíciles de reconectar. Uno a la vez, sostén cada conector en su lugar sobre su zócalo y presiona hacia abajo con la parte plana de su spudger. El conector debe encajar en su lugar.
    • Usa una herramienta de palanca delgada o pinzas para levantar y desconectar cuidadosamente los dos conectores del cable coaxial de la placa lógica.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, pueden ser difíciles de reconectar. Uno a la vez, sostén cada conector en su lugar sobre su zócalo y presiona hacia abajo con la parte plana de su spudger. El conector debe encajar en su lugar.

    What purpose do these coax cables have?

    Eddie Orantes - Contestar

    Note… the top coax (nearest the battery connector) leads to the WiFi Diversity Antenna on the speaker assembly. The other coax is for the secondary cell antenna, part of the lightning assembly. Be sure to reassemble them to the right sockets!

    Ronald Stamper - Contestar

    Thanks so much for this helpful comment! I have just spent a few hours trying to find that information and here it is.

    thalley -

    Thank you so much, same as Thalley, more than 30 minutes that I’m searching for this info everywhere !!

    Olivier Tardy -

    Any tips on remembering which coax goes to which socket?

    Alan Chen -

    Thanks, I was almost certain but the OEM part came with longer coax, your post saved me time, and reasured me ;)

    Martin Lambev -

    Ronald Stamper, is this the same for the 7?

    Keah Smith - Contestar

    put a dab of tippex on the top connector so you remember which is which

    Richard - Contestar

  35. Desconecta los dos cables planos restantes de la placa lógica: Desconecta el conector del cable superior haciendo palanca desde la parte superior Desconecta el conector del puerto Lightning haciendo palanca a lo largo del borde exterior
    • Desconecta los dos cables planos restantes de la placa lógica:

    • Desconecta el conector del cable superior haciendo palanca desde la parte superior

    • Desconecta el conector del puerto Lightning haciendo palanca a lo largo del borde exterior

  36. Retira los siete tornillos que aseguran la placa lógica:
    • Retira los siete tornillos que aseguran la placa lógica:

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 1.3 mm

    • Dos tornillos de separación de 2.1 mm

    • Dos tornillos de separación de 2.0 mm

    • Dos tornillos de separación de 2.2 mm

    • Los tornillos separadores se remueven mejor utilizando una punta de destornillador para tornillos separadores de iPhone y unmango de destornillador.

    • Si no hay otro remedio, un pequeño destornillador de cabeza plana funcionará, pero ten precaución extra para asegurarte de que no se resbale y daña los componentes circundantes.

    I did not have the 2.0mm standoff screw (closest to the edge of the phone by the power button). The bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector (Step 15) was screwed in to this spot.

    Simon Ragona III - Contestar

    I experienced the same.

    Michael Moreno - Contestar

  37. Usa a punta de un spudger para empujar el émbolo de expulsión de la tarjeta SIM fuera del camino de la placa lógica. Usa a punta de un spudger para empujar el émbolo de expulsión de la tarjeta SIM fuera del camino de la placa lógica.
    • Usa a punta de un spudger para empujar el émbolo de expulsión de la tarjeta SIM fuera del camino de la placa lógica.

  38. Usa la punta de un spudger para desviar cuidadosamente los dos cables coaxiales del pequeño clip metálico que los sujeta a la placa lógica.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para desviar cuidadosamente los dos cables coaxiales del pequeño clip metálico que los sujeta a la placa lógica.

    The cables need to be popped out of the clip by moving them up.

    Evan O - Contestar

    Remember to differentiate between the two coaxial cables, its hard to tell during reassembly which is which

    Alan Chen - Contestar

  39. Levanta la placa lógica de los bordes inferiores y deslízala hacia la parte inferior del iPhone para quitarla. Ten cuidado de no enganchar la placa lógica en ningún cable. Durante el reensamblaje, observa la posición del clip negro de conexión a tierra en el borde superior derecho de la placa lógica, cerca de las cámaras traseras. La placa lógica debe deslizarse debajo del clip.
    • Levanta la placa lógica de los bordes inferiores y deslízala hacia la parte inferior del iPhone para quitarla.

    • Ten cuidado de no enganchar la placa lógica en ningún cable.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, observa la posición del clip negro de conexión a tierra en el borde superior derecho de la placa lógica, cerca de las cámaras traseras. La placa lógica debe deslizarse debajo del clip.

    is very nice, I follow them and I really like them

    Juan Jose - Contestar

Conclusión

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Jeff Suovanen

Miembro Desde 06/08/13

385,923 Reputación

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20 comentarios

Helo! Where can I buy motherboard for iPhone 7+ that can be activated? Price?

Dario - Contestar

Can we use iphone 7+ 32gb board to a iphone 7+ 128 GB

Ali Mirsa -

You can purchase motherboard from this website.

https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-i...

Jose Palma -

It's really tough to install Board component but this guideline really helpful..

Flica Hussey - Contestar

how can you determine the different stand of screws

joe kelly - Contestar

organize your screws and look at the %#*@ guide

Tristan Haugh -

Is there a reason why I swapped the motherboard of a Verizon iPhone 7 plus onto a Sprint iPhone 7 plus but now boot ups take 5+ minutes and the phone displays “accessory may not be supported” when connected to a charger?

Pablo villacis - Contestar

The reason might be because you haven’t connect finger print (home button) into the motherboard.

kabore -

did you ever find a fix to your problem?

Francesco Digiorgio -

I am trying to find the correct motherboard for my iPhone 7 Plus (256GB) with finger print ID.  Does anyone know where to find the proper/correct motherboard?  Thank you!

Antoine - Contestar

I am trying to find the correct motherboard to purchase for my 256GB iPhone 7 Plus  (with finger print ID).  does anyone know where to get the correct one?  Thanks!

Antoine - Contestar

Hi, I need the board for the iPhone 7+ 256GB with the fingertouch (which are paired).

Where did you get yours? can you help me? Did you buy yours?

Can you write directly to raul@miodo.com.ar

Thanks,

R

Raul Miodownik -

and the touch id its work or not ?

D E V - Contestar

If the flash is not working on the iPhone 7 plus, from which I want to get the logic board out, will it work on the “new” iPhone where I want to put it in, or are these errors connected to the motherboard?

christophw88 - Contestar

I have the board, showing red (water damage); however, the battery warms up. If charge, noting else. If need to replace the motherboard, will i lose all the data inside? I’ve also order battery and digitizer, hoping that will do. The top part just above the white dot which turns red (motherboard) near antenna, looks burnt. Help

Levianathis - Contestar

Hi, I need the board for the iPhone 7+ 256GB with the fingertouch (which are paired).

Where did you get yours? can you help me?

Can you write directly to raul@miodo.com.ar

Thanks,

R

Raul Miodownik -

peut on mettre la carte mère d’un iphone 7 sur un 7 plus?

Fanny Caillaud - Contestar

Very Helpful, thanks!

Antonio Morataya - Contestar

My phone was completely black but home button vibrates when pressing on it and itunes could not recognise the device when plugged into it. Now i replaced the front screen and after charging 12hours the phone does not turn on. In this case, does anyone know what is causing the issue?

hin - Contestar

I found it is essential to have a magnetic board like the one iFixit sells in order to keep the screws all in order. If you mix them up, you’ll need an accurate digital caliper or a precise analog micrometer to measure the screws for length.

I found the instructions super helpful in completely drying out my iPhone 7Plus after it suffered from a dunking well along in its life. I had replaced the battery myself a year ago, and although I thought I had properly sealed it, it still leaked. I was able to get it dried out and back in order by following these instructions to remove the logic board and then do a heated dry with a blow dryer for five or so minutes on low while monitoring it carefully with my hand and an IR thermometer.

Paul - Contestar

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