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Introducción

Utilice esta guía para reemplazar el monitor Retina, vidrio del monitor y la montura de la cámara iSight.

    • Quita los 10 tornillos que aseguran la parte inferior de la carcasa a la parte superior:

    • Dos tornillos Pentalobe de 2.3 mm

    • Ocho tornillos Pentalobe de 3.0 mm

    • A lo largo de esta reparación, realiza un seguimiento de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que vuelva exactamente de donde proviene para evitar dañar tu dispositivo.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Contestar

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - Contestar

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

    Edison - Contestar

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Contestar

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - Contestar

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - Contestar

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Contestar

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Contestar

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Contestar

  1. Introduce tus dedos entre la parte superior y la parte inferior de la carcasa.
    • Introduce tus dedos entre la parte superior y la parte inferior de la carcasa.

    • Tira suavemente de la carcasa inferior para retirarla.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Contestar

  2. La carcasa inferior está conectada a la carcasa superior con dos clips de plástico cerca de su centro. Durante el reensamblaje, empuja suavemente hacia abajo el centro de la carcasa inferior para volver a sujetar los dos clips de plástico.
    • La carcasa inferior está conectada a la carcasa superior con dos clips de plástico cerca de su centro.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, empuja suavemente hacia abajo el centro de la carcasa inferior para volver a sujetar los dos clips de plástico.

    There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

    wrbandllm - Contestar

    This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

    addvariety - Contestar

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - Contestar

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - Contestar

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Contestar

  3. Si es necesario, remueve la cubierta de plástico adherida a la placa de contacto de la batería.
    • Si es necesario, remueve la cubierta de plástico adherida a la placa de contacto de la batería.

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - Contestar

    There is no point on going near the battery or logic board. I cut out these steps with no issue. It is precautionary but unnecessary.

    Jaime Leonard - Contestar

  4. Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de batería directamente de su enchufe en la placa lógica. Asegúrate de levantar solo en el conector o puedes arriesgarte a dañar la placa lógica permanentemente.
    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de batería directamente de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de levantar solo en el conector o puedes arriesgarte a dañar la placa lógica permanentemente.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Contestar

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - Contestar

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Contestar

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - Contestar

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Contestar

  5. Pliega el conector de la batería hacía arriba y sácalo del medio para prevenir contacto accidental con su enchufe durante la reparación.
    • Pliega el conector de la batería hacía arriba y sácalo del medio para prevenir contacto accidental con su enchufe durante la reparación.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Contestar

    Not sure I understand: did leaving the battery plugged in permanently broke the I/O board (or anything else)?

    Adrien Izzet -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Contestar

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - Contestar

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - Contestar

  6. Baterías para ordenadores portátiles

    Un pequeño arreglo para un gran resultado.

    Comprar Ahora

    Baterías para ordenadores portátiles

    Un pequeño arreglo para un gran resultado.

    Comprar Ahora
  7. Cuidadosamente remueva el hule absorvente de impactos del ventilador desde el borde de el disipador de calor. El hule absorvente de impactos se envuelve alrededor del disipador de calor y encaja en las ranuras del ducto del ventilador. Durante el reensamblaje, asegúrese de colocar las lengüetas en las muescas del conducto del ventilador. El hule absorvente de impactos se envuelve alrededor del disipador de calor y encaja en las ranuras del ducto del ventilador. Durante el reensamblaje, asegúrese de colocar las lengüetas en las muescas del conducto del ventilador.
    • Cuidadosamente remueva el hule absorvente de impactos del ventilador desde el borde de el disipador de calor.

    • El hule absorvente de impactos se envuelve alrededor del disipador de calor y encaja en las ranuras del ducto del ventilador. Durante el reensamblaje, asegúrese de colocar las lengüetas en las muescas del conducto del ventilador.

  8. Inserte la punta de un palanca plástica debajo de cada uno de los cables de antena cerca de sus conectores y levante para desconectarlos de la tarjeta AirPort. Los tres cables están codificados con mangas negras de diferentes longitudes. Durante el reensamblaje: Conecte el cable de manga larga a la toma central.
    • Inserte la punta de un palanca plástica debajo de cada uno de los cables de antena cerca de sus conectores y levante para desconectarlos de la tarjeta AirPort.

    • Los tres cables están codificados con mangas negras de diferentes longitudes. Durante el reensamblaje:

    • Conecte el cable de manga larga a la toma central.

    • El cable de manga corta se conecta al lado del tornillo.

    • El cable restante no tiene manga, y se conecta en el último zócalo vacío, al lado del ventilador.

    I struggled with reconnecting these, and in the process accidentally ripped the connector away from the wire. Is there anything I can do to reattached it?

    Vanessa schroll - Contestar

    This is most difficult and time consuming portion of this entire procedure. Make sure to lift the connectors straight up - not to damage them. The reconnection of the contacts may take several tries. USE CARE AND BE PATIENT! You will eventually get them to connect.

    Darius - Contestar

    does anyone have advice on what is the best tool to use for reconnecting? this is definitely the hardest step to reassembly

    M N - Contestar

    When reassembling, I used tweezers to line them up and the spudger to push them down.

    Joshua Johnson - Contestar

    thank you Joshua, this helped me get them. they do take a bit of patience but it’s worth taking your time.

    Kevin Lynch -

    everything else was easy... I still haven't managed to figure this step out... good luck in your repair

    M N - Contestar

    I got it! line the wire up; push the top part of the metal and give it firm pressure; they should snap in and connect

    M N - Contestar

    You'll get 'em in. Work gently. Make sure they're exactly over top the bottom pins. Press down with a flat smudger. It took me a lot of gentle work to get them in.

    Kent - Contestar

    I saw the sleeves on these.. and when looking at the replacement display saw they matched exactly and took the chance it was intentional. The only thing that got me.. was the bottom panel screws.. didn't know there were 3 types.. (should have known though, I mean right?! LOL Apple (rolls eyes) They could do like Samsung and use one screw for everything.. but oh no.. there is some OCD engineer that just likes SCREWING with people!

    Tim - Contestar

    Pro Tip: When reassembling, do not screw on the metal tab attached to these connectors (part of step 15) until after you have all 3 connected. This gives you uninhibited range of motion for the 3 wires. Go slow as other commenters have said. Start with the shortest wire first. Once all 3 are connected, screw on the metal tab with those 2 screws. Finally double check that all 3 are still connected.

    D B - Contestar

  9. Use la punta de la palanca plástica para empujar a ambos lados del conector del cable de la cámara iSight para sacarlo de su toma en la placa lógica. Use la punta de la palanca plástica para empujar a ambos lados del conector del cable de la cámara iSight para sacarlo de su toma en la placa lógica.
    • Use la punta de la palanca plástica para empujar a ambos lados del conector del cable de la cámara iSight para sacarlo de su toma en la placa lógica.

    First, lift the flat cable just off the board as it is normally “stuck” to the board. This will help the connector to release from the socket.

    John Lopinto - Contestar

  10. Retire el cable de la cámara iSight de la carcasa del ventilador. Retire el cable de la cámara iSight de la carcasa del ventilador.
    • Retire el cable de la cámara iSight de la carcasa del ventilador.

  11. Agarre la lengüeta de plástico negro para abrir el conector del cable de la pantalla y tire de él directamente de su toma de corriente en la placa lógica. Durante la reinstalación, asegúrese de volver a colocar completamente la lengüeta del conector de la pantalla. Durante la reinstalación, asegúrese de volver a colocar completamente la lengüeta del conector de la pantalla.
    • Agarre la lengüeta de plástico negro para abrir el conector del cable de la pantalla y tire de él directamente de su toma de corriente en la placa lógica.

    • Durante la reinstalación, asegúrese de volver a colocar completamente la lengüeta del conector de la pantalla.

    This is pulled straight out to the side of the Macbook, not up.

    nmackaron - Contestar

    Thanks for adding this comment !

    jrbhome - Contestar

    Please use a nylon black stick to lift the lock bar up and push the connection apart reason being is the lock bar should not be pulled on and by pulling on it like shown may cause damage to the MLB/DISPLAY connection and then you’re into not just a display repair but a MLB on top of it!!!

    Dutchie - Contestar

    hello, im trying to do this because im experiencing a blackscreen problem. Id like to do this but my macbook looks so different than this one. Could anyone help me?

    Karla Díaz - Contestar

    If it doesn’t look like this, you’re looking at the wrong guide.

    maccentric -

  12. Retire las cubiertas de bisagra de goma de las bisagras de la pantalla derecha e izquierda. Retire las cubiertas de bisagra de goma de las bisagras de la pantalla derecha e izquierda. Retire las cubiertas de bisagra de goma de las bisagras de la pantalla derecha e izquierda.
    • Retire las cubiertas de bisagra de goma de las bisagras de la pantalla derecha e izquierda.

  13. Retire los dos tornillos T5 Torx de 4,2 mm que sujetan los soportes de bisagra de aluminio a cada lado de la Macbook. Retire los dos tornillos T5 Torx de 4,2 mm que sujetan los soportes de bisagra de aluminio a cada lado de la Macbook.
    • Retire los dos tornillos T5 Torx de 4,2 mm que sujetan los soportes de bisagra de aluminio a cada lado de la Macbook.

    I found these to be very tight and wasnt able to move them with the ifixt screwdriver kit, i had to get a t-handle torx 9 bit to move them

    harveyhalfpint - Contestar

    Yes they were tight but I managed to shift them with the iFixit screwdriver set

    Steven Fillingham - Contestar

    This is 1 screw on each side (not 2 on each side). They are circled in red.

    nmackaron - Contestar

    The T5 in the set I bought from LaptopScreen.com was too big and started to strip these screws. Got an Ace Hardware brand one instead and it worked great.

    Brian Hultin - Contestar

    Be careful at reassembling. This screw tends to brake if you tighten it too much.

    Mertensa Hens - Contestar

    These were T4 not T5 size for me

    Praj Basnet - Contestar

  14. Utilice un par de pinzas para levantar los soportes de bisagra de aluminio de las bisagras de la pantalla derecha e izquierda. Durante el reensamblaje, la parte vertical del soporte debe estar en línea con el carril de aluminio en el centro del Macbook. Durante el reensamblaje, la parte vertical del soporte debe estar en línea con el carril de aluminio en el centro del Macbook.
    • Utilice un par de pinzas para levantar los soportes de bisagra de aluminio de las bisagras de la pantalla derecha e izquierda.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, la parte vertical del soporte debe estar en línea con el carril de aluminio en el centro del Macbook.

    Vorsicht beim Wiederzusammenbau! Diese Schraube ist bei mir am Kopf abgebrochen, als ich sie etwas zu fest hineingedreht habe. Musste das Teil dann notdürftig mit Klebeband fixieren.

    ——-

    Be careful at reassembling. This screw tends to brake if you tighten it too much.

    Mertensa Hens - Contestar

  15. Retire los cuatro 5,3 mm tornillos exteriores T8 Torx (dos en cada lado) que fijan la pantalla de la caja superior. Algunos modelos pueden utilizar tornillos T9 Torx en lugar de T8.
    • Retire los cuatro 5,3 mm tornillos exteriores T8 Torx (dos en cada lado) que fijan la pantalla de la caja superior.

    • Algunos modelos pueden utilizar tornillos T9 Torx en lugar de T8.

    Does these three screws are the same size? Can i mix use these screws during the installing process?

    Michael Kwok - Contestar

    On my model, there was a thin piece of translucent plastic covering the left-side outer screws. It peeled off easily. It must be replaced upon reassembly. When removing these two (left-side) screws, a metal assembly securing the antenna wires was released below the screws. It must be replaced before reassembling these two screws.

    Ralph Begleiter - Contestar

  16. Abra el MacBook Pro un poco más de 90 grados, y colóquelo en el extremo de la mesa, como se muestra. Mientras sostiene la pantalla con la mano izquierda, retire el tornillo T8 Torx restante del soporte superior de la pantalla.
    • Abra el MacBook Pro un poco más de 90 grados, y colóquelo en el extremo de la mesa, como se muestra.

    • Mientras sostiene la pantalla con la mano izquierda, retire el tornillo T8 Torx restante del soporte superior de la pantalla.

    • Asegúrese de que la pantalla y la carcasa superior están equilibrados y no se caerán, dañando potencialmente cada componente.

    • Retire el último tornillo Torx T8 que mantiene la pantalla en la parte superior.

  17. Sostenga la carcasa superior con la mano derecha y gire ligeramente hacia la derecha, hacia la parte superior de la pantalla, para que los soportes de la pantalla liberen el borde de la carcasa superior. Gire la pantalla ligeramente lejos de la parte superior. Tire de la pantalla lejos de la parte superior de la caja, teniendo en cuenta los soportes o cables que pueden quedar atrapados.
    • Sostenga la carcasa superior con la mano derecha y gire ligeramente hacia la derecha, hacia la parte superior de la pantalla, para que los soportes de la pantalla liberen el borde de la carcasa superior.

    • Gire la pantalla ligeramente lejos de la parte superior.

    • Tire de la pantalla lejos de la parte superior de la caja, teniendo en cuenta los soportes o cables que pueden quedar atrapados.

    When replacing the display assembly with a new one, the new hinges may be very hard to move into the 90 degree position. We found it helpful to loop a paperclip into the screw hole of the hinge to facilitate pulling open the hinge.

    Eric - Contestar

    Yes also found the hinges to be extremely tight, could not move them with from their initial position with fingers, ended up using a pair of pliers to rotate them enough to get fingers under them

    Steven Fillingham - Contestar

    Are there any cheaper replacement screens? If so I need to know. My parents still haven't found out and I don't make a ton of money...

    Haley Hildreth - Contestar

    The paper clip is a great tip. I also used the spudger flat end under the hinge and the metal side of the case as leverage to push it up.

    D B - Contestar

    Excellent guide, Andrew! I am an ACMT and when disconnecting the eDP cable, I like to use the pointed ends of two spudgers (Apple calls them ‘black sticks’) to push the connector straight back out of the socket by pushing on its edges. This prevents any stress to the locking bar and also helps to ensure that the connector is disconnected evenly. For reassembly, I line up the connector carefully and once the pins are all lined up and the cable connector partially inserted, I push on the back edges on either side of the connector with the pointed ends of two spudgers, ‘walking’ the connector back into place so that it is even on both sides.

    Also, when disconnecting the camera cable connector from the logic board, I use the same method as above, situating the points of the sticks into the notches on each side of the connector and pushing straight back vs walking it back. I do the same thing when reconnecting the cable, but I ‘walk’ it back as mentioned above with the eDP cable connector.

    Ez Bless - Contestar

    Also, once I have removed the clutch covers, I remove the two screws holding the metal antenna grounding loop in place (first picture in Step 15 of your guide). I move the loop out of the way and reinstall the two screws just until the heads of the screws make contact with the metal surface of the hinge. I loosen all of the rest of the screws and then tighten them back down just until the screws stop turning (without torquing them). I thoroughly brush off the surface area of the ESD mat where I am going to situate the MacBook for the next step, and then flip it over and open the display 90 degrees. I flip the machine back over and rotate it 90 degrees so that the ‘Apple’ logo on the back of the display lid is facing me, inverted, and the display hinges are much closer to me. After carefully scooting the machine back just until the display makes contact with the edge of the table, I pull the display up toward me to open it fully. I then carefully remove the hinge screws.

    Ez Bless - Contestar

    For removal, you simply need to lift up slightly on the top edge of the display (possible once the 6 hinge screws have been fully removed) until it has cleared the recesses of the top case. It can then be lifted out without any hassle and you should not need to use any paper clips as mentioned in previous comments. I hope this helps someone; it is knowledge I have gained from following Apple’s Service Guides and experience from having replaced hundreds of displays in a short amount of time. We are an AASP on a university campus, so display repairs are VERY common (from mostly student customers).

    Ez Bless - Contestar

    Hello everyone! I have problem after display changing. The brightness adjustment doesn’t work anymore. As I fine out its standard situation when you change displays for MacBook. Did anyone know how to fix this issue ?

    Bezromval - Contestar

    I'm having the exact same issue! Did you find a solution?

    Victor Bui -

    Excellent guide. My IT guys were scared to touch my mac but I did it myself. Thanks to ifixit

    Soul Reaver - Contestar

    This is an excellent guide. I replaced the screen on my macbook pro 13” retina early 2015. However, I am having some odd behavior from my fixed computer.

    With the lid open, the computer does not seem to boot. However, if I close the lid (after booting or re-booting) the apple logo lights up and when I open the lid fully, the computer operates normally. Any idea what is wrong? I bought the screen replacement second hand on ebay.

    Vivek Chivukula - Contestar

Conclusión

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Sam Goldheart

Miembro Desde 18/10/12

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I've been browsing guides to this model and I don't get how in this one on Youtube the laptop looks completely different, although it also claims to be A1502. Either one of them is a different model or I'm really missing something?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lL4gpfcb...

Marina Gorobevskaya - Contestar

Unfortunately the A1502 number isn't an exclusive model number, several devices share it, the internal differences between them vary. The more telling number is the EMC number, which tends to me more exclusive to unique devices.

Sam Goldheart -

After a closer look they actually seem to be the same, I just got confused by the video being a lot less detailed than this walkthrough. I just replaced the screen of my macbook following this guide (yay!) without any previous experience of fixing macbooks, though I must admit I assembled a few desktops at the dawn of the millennium. The only slight problem I encountered was that the main display cable wouldn't lie flat enough in that corner, it kept sticking out, and even after screwing the lid on the gap at that corner seems to be a tiny bit wider. But the laptop is working anyway.

Thank you Sam for posting this guide! It saved me a lot of time and money. Being in China I bought the display assembly on Taobao for $250US whereas the shop repair estimate that I got was around $400.

If anyone is still having doubts - you can do it!

Marina Gorobevskaya -

The guide is very helpful. I managed to replace my screen within 1 hour. I bought my screen from ifixit too! the product is genuine and in good condition although it says that it has been used before! Highly recommended!

henrycwc - Contestar

Can you replace just the LCD without the clamshell bezel and cables?

rickcostel - Contestar

Kind of. In most laptops the lcd assembly is a separate unit that can be replaced. In these the top case serves as the lcd assembly.

But you can replace just the lcd polarizer. It is much more difficult than replacing the whole display assembly, as the diffuser panel which is directly behind the polarizer is very fragile.

This video provides a guide on how you can do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOS-rjvn...

elec1cele -

I managed to replace the display assembly pretty smoothly and got a cool video out of it! For anyone interested in watching a 2-minute time-lapse version, you can watch it here: (https://youtu.be/BHhpoG-0_oI)

bexoro - Contestar

Great guide. I was able to complete this in 45 mins with a 4 year old running around the table I was working on. Thanks for a thorough guide. Also bought the screen from ifixit and it looks great.

searnold - Contestar

Excellent guide! Completed it in about 20 minutes and everything works now!

Vsevolod Kamnev - Contestar

Great guide, easy to follow.

Replacement display from iFixit had the brackets folded down towards the screen, had to unfold them carefully with pliers.

Take note - the black hinge cover (the bulge on the display assembly) shifts left and right. Make sure to adjust it dead center when assembling. Also make sure to align display with bottom case perfectly before tightening down the bracket screws.

Leonid - Contestar

good guide replaced my screen no major issues, reattaching the three small cables was the trickiest bit and definitely needed care.

nikolas hodges - Contestar

To reinstall the new display, do you just follow the instructions backwards?

Tee - Contestar

A great guide, I spent around an hour to complete removal and install of new display (from iFixit), its cheaper than getting Apple repaired and results in a great quality fix, my daughter is over the moon. I chose the B grade screen and its great, not sure what scratches they are referring to :)

Steven Fillingham - Contestar

Followed this guide and mine turned out AMAZING. So happy I didn't spend the $500-$600 to have someone else fix it. Literally spent less than an hour to do it all. I would highly recommend buying the needed tools for it .

Shane Hennessy - Contestar

Am I wrong or it is not possible to replace the front-glass only (without the LCD), on the A1502 Model ? (late 2013) ?

I cannot find the front-glass for this model on the internet... any idea where I can find it ?

Clement Bouchardeau - Contestar

I need to replace the hinge connected to the display assembly, would that be possible?

Sokar599 - Contestar

Brilliant guide as usual all done in half an hour. Worth noting that I could not adjust the brightness at first but a PRAM reset sorted that out nicely.

Thank you.

MattOckendon - Contestar

Just did the same repair.. I am also having display brightness issues but already tried PRAM and SMC resets. Brightness works under Bootcamp but not macOS... any ideas? A third party utility I downloaded allows me to control brightness but I really should be able to use the brightness adjustment keys. Lastly, the 1440x900 display resolution option is gone as well. Stuck with 1024x600 or 1280x800 (default but highest resolution option I have).

Santiago Moreno -

Step 15, Does these three screws are the same size? Can i mix use these screws during the installing process?

Michael Kwok - Contestar

Thanks for the very detailed guide. Replacing the screen worked like a charm! But I have a problem: My screen does not turn on. I can hear the start-up sound but the display only shows a black light. By connecting an external screen via HDMI and closing the lid I can boot normally. I tried PRAM and SMC reset, but neither helped. I switched back to the old/half broken screen and it turned on normally. Any idea what I could do next?

Sonopha - Contestar

Hi, it’s me again. I managed to make it work. It seems that one of the connectors were not connected in the right way. I did not do anything different but switched once back to the old screen and then to the new one again, and it is working. I suspect the one from step 11. I read in other forums that the display connector can be a problem. Thanks for this wonderful guide!

Sonopha -

Super Anleitung. Ich hab es auf den ersten Anlauf geschafft. Danke

Theater Salz und Pfeffer - Contestar

My display is fine but my cable appear to be broken. It only works at certain angles. Is there any way I can avoid replacing the whole screen?

Jerry G. - Contestar

Excellent, thought I’d killed my screen by dropping the ‘book, but all I needed to do was reseat the main cable. THANKS!!

Benspamm - Contestar

This is a great guide! Managed to complete removing the display assembly in less than 20 minutes. Any leads on how to fix/replace a broken lcd? Can that be done? or does one need to replace the entire display assembly?

Mitalee Parikh - Contestar

How can I know if my laptop would need a t9 or t8 for step 15??

Ali Asadian - Contestar

Many thanks for the detailed, careful instructions - and especially the clear, useful photos. Saved me a lot of money, and a lot of headache. Repair was clear and straightforward.

Ralph Begleiter - Contestar

Hi,

can I replace an damaged display of a MacBook Pro 13” late 2013 with a display from the early 2013 version?

I compared the high-def pictures of each cable connection and they seem to be identical, or am I wrong?

Thanks for the help.

Cheers

L

Hans Wurst - Contestar

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