Introducción
Utiliza esta guía para retirar de forma segura la batería pegada de tu MacBook Pro de 16" con la ayuda de un kit iFixit con removedor de adhesivos. El removedor de adhesivos está diseñado para debilitar el pegamento que sujeta la batería, permitiéndote retirarla con facilidad.
El removedor de adhesivo iFixit es inflamable. Sigue este procedimiento en un área bien ventilada. No fumes ni trabajes cerca de una llama abierta.
Para minimizar el riesgo de daños, enciende tu MacBook y deja que la batería se descargue completamente antes de iniciar este procedimiento. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede crear un fuego peligroso e incontrolable si se perfora accidentalmente. [Si tu batería se ve hinchada o hinchada, toma precauciones adicionales.
Nota: El disolvente utilizado para disolver el adhesivo de la batería puede dañar ciertos plásticos. Siga todas las instrucciones y tenga cuidado donde aplica el removedor de adhesivo.
Qué necesitas
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Enciende tu Mac y ejecuta Terminal.
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Copia y pega el siguiente comando (o escríbelo exactamente) en la Terminal:
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Presiona [return]. Si se te solicita, introduce tu contraseña de administrador y vuelve a pulsar [return]. Nota: La tecla de retorno también puede estar etiquetada como ⏎ o "enter".
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Usa un destornillador P5 Pentalobe para quitar seis tornillos que aseguran la caja inferior:
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Cuatro tornillos de 3.7 mm
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Dos tornillos de 7.3 mm
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Presiona una ventosa cerca del borde frontal de la caja inferior, entre los agujeros de los tornillos.
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Tire de la ventosa lo suficiente para abrir un pequeño hueco debajo de la caja inferior.
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Desliza la esquina de una púa de apertura en el hueco que acabas de crear debajo de la caja inferior.
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Desliza la esquina de una púa de apertura en el hueco que acabas de crear debajo de la caja inferior.
I recommend being careful while sliding as you can scratch the speaker. The actual clip is about halfway up the side, whereas the speaker is closer to the front (further from the hinge). So stay very shallow with just the tip of the pick until you get halfway up the side.
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Repite el paso anterior en el otro lado, usando una púa de apertura para liberar el segundo clip.
Same advice that I gave for the other side — be careful not to scratch the speaker which is close to the bottom. Keep the pick shallow until you get halfway up the side.
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Tira con firmeza para deslizar la caja inferior hacia el borde delantero del MacBook (lejos del área de la bisagra) para separar el último de los clips que aseguran la caja inferior.
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Tira primero en una esquina, luego en la otra.
This was made a lot easier by using a lever in the hinge area in combination with pulling. The amount of force required was more than the grip I could get on the metal allowed for my macbook.
Thank you for this comment! 🙏
For me it was the same way, wasn't able to get enough grip to pull sufficiently - but gently levering near the hinge with a spudger to "push" the bottom panel away worked well!There is no pulling required. Use an opening pick or a spudger at the hinge area to gently and easily nudge the bottom panel off the clips. It should be effortless.
If you do pull on the bottom case be careful of where you place the hand supporting the Mac, otherwise you'll make a blood sacrifice to the Mac gods! I placed my other hand too close to the feet on the bottom case and while removing it, the sharp edge of the bottom case sliced into my thumb.
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Remueve la caja inferior.
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Colócalo en su lugar y alinea los clips deslizantes cerca de la bisagra de la pantalla. Presiona hacia abajo y desliza la cubierta hacia la bisagra. Debería dejar de deslizarse cuando los clips se enganchen.
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Cuando los clips deslizantes estén totalmente encajados y la caja inferior parezca estar correctamente alineada, presiona firmemente sobre la caja inferior para que encajen los cuatro clips ocultos que hay debajo. Debería sentir y oír cómo se encajan en su lugar
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Despega y remueve la etiqueta adhesiva aislante de la placa de la batería en el borde de la placa lógica más cerca de la batería.
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Si la tapa no se despega fácilmente, aplica un poco de calor con un iOpener, secador de pelo o pistola de calor para ablandar el adhesivo e intenta nuevamente.
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Usa un spudger para levantar suavemente la tapa de bloqueo del conector ZIF para el cable de datos de la placa de la batería.
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Desconecta el cable de datos de la placa de la batería deslizándolo fuera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
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Despega la cinta que cubre el conector de cable de datos de la placa de la batería.
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Levanta y desconecta la tapa de bloqueo en el conector en el extremo opuesto del cable de datos de la placa de la batería.
I’ve seen versions of this battery board that the cable goes around and to the back of the board, so this step is not always necesary.
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Desliza el cable de datos de la placa de la batería de su zócalo en la placa de la batería y remuévelo completamente.
I’ve seen versions of this battery board that the cable goes around and to the back of the board, so this step is not always necesary.
Putting a mark on the cable will be helpful when reinstalling so you don't put it backwards or upside down.
This isn't necessary for many repairs, such as the Screen Replacement. I just lift the cable out of the way enough to do the next few steps and leave it attached.
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Usa un destornillador T5 Torx para remover el tornillo panqueque de 6.7 mm que sujeta el conector de alimentación de la batería.
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Utiliza un desarmador T3 Torx para extraer los dos tornillos de 1.8 mm que aseguran el soporte de la cubierta de los conectores de los cables del teclado y el panel táctil.
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Quita el soporte.
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Utiliza un spundger para desconectar el cable del panel táctil directamente hacia arriba de la tarjeta lógica.
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Utiliza un desarmador T5 Torx para retirar los 13 tornillos que aseguran el ensamblaje del panel táctil.
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Nueve tornillos de 8.5 mm
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Cuatro tornillos de 4.9 mm
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Gire la pantalla ligeramente, pero mantén la MacBook boca abajo. El conjunto del trackpad deberá separarse y colocarse de manera recta en el display.
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Con cuidado pase el cable plano del trackpad a través de su abertura en el chasis.
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Mientras retiras el ensamblaje del panel táctil, se muy cuidadoso de no perder las nueve pequeñas rondanas de metal descansando sobre los postes de los tornillos. (Van a volar y perderse a la menos provocación).
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Retira el ensamblaje del panel táctil.
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Usa un destornillador T3 Torx para remover los dos tornillos de 3.5 mm que sujetan la tapa del cable flexible de la placa de la pantalla.
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Remueve la tapa del cable flexible de la placa de la pantalla.
If you're familiar with repairing, you do not need to do a complete tear down, you can skip from here to step 63 and just loosen (or you can remove) the Three 3.3 mm T3 Torx screws (red) and the T5 screw (Yellow)below the left fan and slightly lift the logic board enough to slide out the battery board cable from under the logic board.
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Utiliza un destornillador T3 Torx para quitar los cuatro tornillos de 2.0 mm de las tapas de las bisagras (dos tornillos en cada lado).
Bonjour @amaury29177 Merci de remarque. Vous avez l'œil ! J'ai corrigé l'erreur. iFixit étant un wiki, je vous invite à faire la correction de votre côté s'il vous arrive de trouver une autre erreur :) Excellente journée et merci encore !
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Usa un destornillador Torx T3 para retirar los dos tornillos de 2.4 mm que fijan el soporte de la tapa para los conectores del cable del Touch ID y de la toma de los auriculares.
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Remueve el soporte.
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Utilizando un controlador Torx T3, retire los dos tornillos de 1.5 mm que aseguran el soporte de la tapa para el digitalizador de la Barra de Tacto y los conectores del sensor de ángulo de apertura.
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Con tus pinzas, desliza el soporte hacia el borde lateral del MacBook Pro hasta que se despeje la pestaña de retención de la placa lógica.
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Remueve el soporte.
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Utiliza un destornillador Torx T3 para retirar los dos tornillos de 1.9 mm que fijan el soporte para el conector del cable de la pantalla de la Touch Bar.
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Remueve el soporte.
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Utilizando el destornillador T3 Torx:
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Quita los dos tornillos de 1.3 mm que aseguran la cubierta del cable flexible de Thunderbolt a la izquierda.
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Quita los dos tornillos de 1.3 mm más de la cubierta del cable de Thunderbolt a la derecha.
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Usa un spudger para desconectar el cable flexible de Thunderbolt del lado izquierdo, sacándolo directamente de la placa lógica.
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Haz una palanca desde el borde interior, más cerca del ventilador.
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Empuja suavemente el conector del cable flexible hacia un lado para que no interfiera con la extracción de la placa lógica.
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Despega la cinta que cubre elconector del cable del teclado.
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Utiliza una palanca para levantar suavemente la larga tapa de bloqueo del conector ZIF del cable del teclado.
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Despega cualquier cinta que tapa el conector del cable del altavoz izquierdo.
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Quita la cinta que cubre el conector del cable del altavoz derecho.
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Quita la cinta que cubre el primer conector del cable de retroiluminación del teclado.
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Abre la tapa de bloqueo del conector ZIF de la retroiluminación del teclado haciendo palanca directamente desde la placa lógica.
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Desconecta la retroiluminación del teclado tirando de su cable lejos de la placa lógica hasta que se suelte de su zócalo.
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Si es posible, tira de la cinta adjunta al cable, en lugar del propio cable, para reducir el riesgo de daños.
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Aleja el cable de su conector para que pueda despejar más fácilmente la placa lógica durante la extracción.
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Despega cualquier cinta del conector del ventilador derecho.
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Abra la tapa de bloqueo en el conector ZIF del ventilador derecho haciendo palanca directamente desde la placa lógica.
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Desconecta el ventilador derecho tirando de su cable lejos de la placa lógica hasta que se suelte de su zócalo.
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Si es posible, tira de la cinta que está pegada al cable, en lugar del propio cable, para reducir el riesgo de daños.
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Quita la cinta que cubre el conector del ventilador izquierdo.
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Abra la tapa de cierre del conector ZIF del ventilador izquierdo haciendo palanca desde la placa lógica.
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Desconecta el ventilador izquierdo tirando de su cable fuera de la placa lógica hasta que se libere de su zócalo.
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Si es posible, tira de la cinta que está pegada al cable, en lugar del propio cable, para reducir el riesgo de daños.
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Quita la cinta que cubre el otro conector de retroiluminación del teclado.
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Abra la tapa de bloqueo del conector ZIF de la retroiluminación del teclado haciendo palanca directamente desde la placa lógica.
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Desconecta la retroiluminación del teclado separando su cable de la placa lógica hasta que se suelte de su zócalo.
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Si es posible, tira de la cinta que está adherida al cable, en lugar del propio cable, para reducir el riesgo de daños.
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Quita la cinta que cubre el conector del micrófono.
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Abre la tapa de bloqueo del conector ZIF del conjunto de micrófonos, haciendo palanca directamente desde la placa lógica.
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Desconecta el conjunto de micrófonos tirando de su cable lejos de la placa lógica hasta que se suelte de su enchufe.
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Si es posible, tira de la cinta que está conectada al cable, en lugar del propio cable, para reducir el riesgo de daños.
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Usa un destornillador Torx T5 para quitar el único tornillo de 2.9 mm que asegura el conjunto de cables de antenas.
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Desconecta los tres cables de antena haciendo palanca en cada uno de ellos y levantándolos de su zócalo.
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Desliza tus pinzas o el extremo plano de tu spudger debajo de cada cable hasta que esté cerca del zócalo, y luego suavemente gíralo o haz una palanca para desconectarlo.
One tip to make logic board removal and replacement easier, is to carefully tape all the flexes back out of the way. This makes it a lot easier, trust me. Paul Daniels of FlexBV fame taught me this https://pldaniels.com/flexbv/ See photo of taped back flexes here https://i.imgur.com/eriX0KV.jpg
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Retira los once tornillos que aseguran el ensamblaje de la placa lógica:
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Tres tornillos T3 Torx de 3.3 mm
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Dos tornillos T5 Torx de 3.3 mm
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Cuatro tornillos T5 Torx de 2.9 mm
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Un tornillo T8 Torx de 4.00 mm
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Un tornillo T8 Torx de 4.0 mm (cabeza grande)
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Despega (pero no quites) la tira de goma de amortiguación de vibración del adhesivo que lo sujeta al ventilador.
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Si es necesario, aplica un calor suave con un iOpener, un secador de pelo o una pistola de calor para suavizar el adhesivo y hacer que los amortiguadores sean más fáciles de separar.
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Repite el proceso con la otra tira adhesiva del ventilador opuesto.
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Pasa el conjunto de cables de la antena por el espacio entre la placa lógica y el disipador de calor, y asegúrate de que se alinea correctamente al bajar la placa a su lugar.
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Verifica que ningún cable quede atrapado debajo de la placa al instalarla. Revisa cada una de las quince ubicaciones marcadas cuidadosamente.
One tip to make logic board removal and replacement easier, is to carefully tape all the flexes back out of the way. This makes it a lot easier, trust me. Paul Daniels of FlexBV fame taught me this https://pldaniels.com/flexbv/ See photo of taped back flexes here https://i.imgur.com/eriX0KV.jpg
So easy to refit the logic board with all the flexes taped back out of the way. The only way to go IMO https://i.imgur.com/1fiRGhe.jpg
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Usa un destornillador T5 Torx para remover el tornillo de 5.1 mm que sujeta la placa de la batería.
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Para proteger tu pantalla, coloca una hoja de papel de aluminio entre la pantalla y el teclado y déjala allí mientras trabajas.
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Además, utiliza cinta de pintor para sellar el área bajo el trackpad lo mejor posible. Opcionalmente, también puedes colocar una toalla absorbente directamente debajo del área del trackpad para absorber cualquier exceso de removedor de adhesivo.
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Ahora que tu MacBook Pro está completamente preparado, es hora de prepararte.
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Usa protección para los ojos cuando manipules y apliques el removedor de adhesivo. (La protección ocular está incluida en tu kit).
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No utilices lentes de contacto sin protección ocular.
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Los guantes protectores también se incluyen en el kit. Si le preocupa una posible irritación de la piel, póngase los guantes ahora.
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Añade unas gotas más de removedor de adhesivo entre las dos celdas de la batería de la derecha, para que fluya hacia abajo por debajo de la celda inferior de la batería.
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Espera unos dos minutos para que el removedor de adhesivo líquido penetre y debilite el adhesivo de la batería antes de proceder al siguiente paso.
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Después de un par de minutos, inserta una esquina de una tarjeta de plástico debajo de la batería, empezando por el borde inferior del fondo, la celda de la derecha.
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Mueve la tarjeta de un lado a otro y deslízala por debajo de las dos celdas de la batería.
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Levanta las celdas para separar completamente el adhesivo, pero no trates de quitarlas de tu MacBook todavía.
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Deja la tarjeta de plástico temporalmente debajo de las celdas para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a pegar al pasar al siguiente paso.
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Levanta y retira la batería.
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Retira cualquier tira grande de adhesivo con pinzas o con los dedos enguantados.
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Saca los trozos de adhesivo que quedan con una herramienta de plástico y limpia las zonas subyacentes con un removedor de adhesivos o alcohol isopropílico. Limpia en una dirección (no de adelante hacia atrás) hasta que el chasis esté limpio y listo para tu nueva batería.
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Esto puede llevar bastante trabajo, así que ten paciencia.
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Si tu batería viene con el adhesivo preinstalado en la parte inferior, déle la vuelta y retire con cuidado el revestimiento para exponer el adhesivo. Si su batería no venía con adhesivo, aplique una cinta adhesiva fina de doble cara como la Tesa 61395 para mantener su batería en su lugar.
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Coloca la batería con cuidado y colócala en su lugar.
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Presiona y sostén cada celda con firmeza durante 5-10 segundos para asegurar la caja inferior.
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Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos arriba en orden inverso.
Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje certificado.
¿La reparación no salió como planeaste? Consulta nuestra comunidad de respuestas para ayuda en la resolución de problemas.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos arriba en orden inverso.
Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje certificado.
¿La reparación no salió como planeaste? Consulta nuestra comunidad de respuestas para ayuda en la resolución de problemas.
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33 comentarios
Amazing. This is truly thorough, and as soon as this battery starts to fail, will come back here. Nice work documenting a whole assembly line.
If I want to replace my fans, it looks like I can follow this guide to step 66 and then just figure it out from there? Is there a guide somewhere on this? Thanks!
You can do as you wrote for replacing only the fan. Ther’s nothing more to know about it.
I see that the MacBook Pro 13 logic board remains in place in iFixit battery replacement guide. Is there any reason why in the MacBook Pro 16 the logic board cannot remain in place while removing and reinstalling the battery?
Yes, there are two battery cables running under the logic board, clearly visible at step 68. No way to put the battery back with the logic board in place.
I recently did the 15” 2017 Macbook Pro battery replacement and that seemed more difficult than this one due to the speaker connectors. In my opinion, this 16” replacement can be marked as Moderate.
Because the battery connector is underneath the logic board here.
Peter H -
Great guide! Wow! Definitely not for the faint of heart! Thanks Carsten!
This is definitely a difficulty repair. I caused some damage to the speaker, likely while trying to get the battery out. (Luckily, that will be a very simple repair)
I definitely recommend double checking that you have all right screwdrivers, scrapers/spudgers, adhesive dissolvers, screw locker and a tray with lots of compartments to keep everything organized. I have done multiple complex repairs of mac laptops in the past including screen replacements, logic board replaceements and other battery replacements and this was the most difficult. I am very glad future generations included pull tabs for the adhesive.
Thanks for the guide!
FWIW I skipped about half the steps, and used spudgers to angle the motherboard up, in order to remove the battery. I'll list the steps I followed below:
1-21
27-29
35-36
41-49
53-54
61
63
68
I use 99% isopropyl alcohol, and an ifixit plastic card to cut through the battery adhesive. TBH that was the most time-consuming part, because I like to let the alcohol melt the adhesive a bit before cutting, in order to minimize the amount of pressure I have to apply.
The reason I skipped a lot of steps is to minimize risk, and also to save time. Thankfully the battery ribbons were easy to slide underneath the board, once the board was angled up a bit.
What a nightmare... There's no way this wasn't done in purpose.
2 years in and the battery's already dead. That's insane.
This took longer than expected due to the logic board removal, but wasn’t too difficult and everything went to plan.
Note that you need to be REALLY careful with the ZIF connector latches like on the battery board and logic board, they are very fragile and I had to re-attach the latch for one of them.
OMG!! I did not know that the process to change out the battery on the 2019 MBP was so intense. My old 2009 MBP was "cake walk" compared to this. Thanks for the HOW TO
For Step 16:
What does "damage" mean in this case? I have one of these that I was attempting to clean, so I lifted the battery power connector up, but I can't swear it didn't make contact. When I was trying to lay it down flat I thought it would stay flat until I put the screw in, but it popped back up a short way. I then held it down & put the screw it - now my MBP isn't powering on. Did this damage the logic board?
Nevermind my prior; took it to a local shop & they said it has liquid damage on logic board. Sending back to seller.
Woo hoo! Just finished. I don’t know who could do this battery repair on the quicker side of that range—mine took over 5 hours. Granted, I also redid the thermal paste on my CPU and my GPU. In addition, the old battery was really stuck in there, so that took extra time. Nonetheless, now I have more experience and, no need to buy a new computer ! Thanks, iFixIt !
Carsten did an excellent job in providing the correct information to do the job. But let us ALL NOT FORGET, this convoluted way of replacing a battery (something that would be considered a common and ordinary everyday routine need) is Apple's good faith attempt at preventing the everyday consumer from replacing their own battery in their own device. Take for example myself when it takes 80+ steps to change a battery, and provided I were wealthy, I'd have someone replace the battery for me. Not everyone is wealthy or similarly situated. Make sure you don't forget to encourage your elected officials in the U.S. Congress to vote to allow us Americans our right to repair our devices ourselves without long, drawn out, encumbering, and convoluted ways of doing it. Can you imagine how blinded in the night we would be if we had to go through all this just to change the batteries in our flashlights? We're no longer in the dark ages. I for one, am not prepared to go back even if Apple likes it or not.
Is there a way to replace the battery without removing everything? I can just slide the big battery out of my Dell Latitude E6500 and pop another one in. However, can I replace the battery in my 2019 MBP 16" without having to remove everything?
The repair guide is awesome. Unfortunately, replacing the battery didn't bring the machine back to life. Sadness!
But the repair guide was great. I felt very confident throughout.
Same with me. Did you figure out what was wrong with your machine? Replacing the battery was my best guess at what was wrong with my machine and now I'm stuck. Hopefully you had some luck diagnosing your issue?
Josef A -
Excellent guide
If I replace the battery, why coconut tool said that the manufacture date is 2013-03-18, is that normal?
So I just completed the whole sequence and everything went fine, really really well done Carsten! Only thing that went wrong is minor but still annoying: it seems I broke the left keyboard backlight cable. What to do in such a case?
Little extra onfo: I can't seem to find that part anywhere, and I can see the ribbon is slightly ripped in its angle, which must have happened when I put the logic board back in place. I can live without it, but it is strange having a keyboard lit only on one side... so any hint will be appreciated.
Yann,
Thank you for the kind words! Unfortunately, the keyboard, keyboard backlight, and their cables are integral to the laptop's upper case.
So thankful for this guide. Was able to resurrect an old unit that was collecting dust. Knew issue had to be the battery. Yes, a lot of steps; though, followed closely, you will succeed!!
3hours, with precaution and coffee time. All step are not so complicate. The unique attention is for the batterie removal. And cleaning step. So thanks for this tutorial.
Really thank you Carsten for this majestic guide, but shame on Apple for doing this job. I spent like 8 hours for doing everything (I know, I'm quite slow) and I even punctured the old battery while using the plastic card. I was a nightmare.
Hopefully, we will have easy-to-replace batteries by 2027 thanks to the European Union.
Special thanks to the Italian translators too, Grazie!
Do you seriously have to disconnect everything from power before removing the battery or can you just disconnect the battery and replace it with a new one? That just seems excessive.
But if their is a reason, I’d love to know
Is there any way to test if I'm having a battery issue? Can I boot the computer if I disconnect the battery? Currently the computer is completely dead and gives no sign of life what ever I do.
As everyone else commented - excellent guide. I got through everything, powered it up, and everything seemed great. At this point it was late and I went to bed. The next morning, after logging in, the screen went black - never to power up again. The battery data cable showed some signs of overheating. Everything looked aligned, oriented correctly, etc. I must have had the cable slightly rotated in the socket or something. Not sure it is worth retrying with another battery data cable. Anyone else have a similar issue?
Tedious tedious tedious. The screws are smaller than a strand of hair, so take extra care.
This guide also didn't exactly match my mac, it might've been a different model year, since I was missing various cables and screws to remove. Still very helpful nonetheless, and yeah it takes a long time.
Battery ribbon cable = extremely fragile
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - Contestar
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Contestar
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Contestar
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Contestar
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Contestar
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Contestar
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Contestar
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Contestar
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Contestar
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - Contestar
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - Contestar
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - Contestar
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - Contestar
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - Contestar
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - Contestar
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - Contestar
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - Contestar
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - Contestar
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - Contestar
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - Contestar
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - Contestar
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - Contestar
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - Contestar
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - Contestar
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - Contestar
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -
Read the comments section at the bottom of the article before proceeding with the repair. It is unnecessary to remove the logic board. I actually removed the 45mm plastic bar to enable the cables to slip out then in. It is only there to frustrate repairers!
Jack - Contestar