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Introducción

¿La cámara selfie de tu iPhone no saca bien fotos? Podría ser hora de reemplazar la cámara frontal. Usa esta guía para reemplazar el ensamblaje de sensor y cámara frontal, incluso el sensor de luz ambiente y micrófono en un iPhone 7.

Resumen del Video

  1. Antes de comenzar, descarga la batería de tu iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede incendiarse y / o explotar si se perfora accidentalmente.
    • Antes de comenzar, descarga la batería de tu iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede incendiarse y / o explotar si se perfora accidentalmente.

    • Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.

    • Remueve los dos tornillos pentalobe de 3.4 mm en el borde inferior del iPhone.

    • Abrir la pantalla del iPhone dañará sus sellos impermeables. Ten sellos de reemplazo listos antes de seguir con el próximo paso o ten cuidado de evitar la entrada de líquidos si vuelves a ensamblar tu iPhone sin reemplazar los sellos.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Contestar

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Contestar

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - Contestar

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - Contestar

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman - Contestar

    in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

    Jan-Tijn Oppermann -

    the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Contestar

    The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.

    Bram Driesen -

    Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.

    Jon Moylan - Contestar

    If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.

    Ryan Huebert - Contestar

    Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction

    Cynthia Lamb - Contestar

    I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?

    Richard - Contestar

    Do the screws come out in total?

    YVES THEUGELS - Contestar

    Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??

    YVES THEUGELS - Contestar

    I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.

    Anthony Scaminaci - Contestar

  2. Calentar el borde inferior del iPhone ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, facilitando su apertura.
    • Calentar el borde inferior del iPhone ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, facilitando su apertura.

    • Utiliza una pistola de calor o preparar un iOpener y aplicarlo en el borde inferior del iPhone durante un minuto para suavizar el adhesivo debajo.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - Contestar

    Sesenta segundos

    Krutav Shah -

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - Contestar

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - Contestar

    I totally Mr. Myagi’ed it, by rubbing my hands together until they burned, then held the phone un my hot hands. I did this 5-6 times over a couple of minutes. It was a good zen way to get started!

    Ark - Contestar

    Can a heat gun be used?

    Lee - Contestar

    Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?

    Marius Serban - Contestar

    Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Angel Hermida -

    Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?

    davidecongiu - Contestar

    Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?

    Eric Nance - Contestar

    Hairdryer worked for me but I needed to use a razor to pry it open at the bottom then used the spudger

    Gina Torres - Contestar

    Is there a reason why you wouldn’t put the iopener over the entire length of the phone, instead of just the bottom corner?

    BPX - Contestar

    The motherboard is extremely sensitive to heat.

    Neal Reasland -

    Hello can the head damage the id touch bottom?

    After heating opening it stoped working.

    Qrizmasex @ gmail . Com

    aratovski - Contestar

    It definitely can. That happened to me.

    Steve Naylor -

    mine didnt come with a heat pack do i use a hair dryer

    Shy Rose - Contestar

    I just threw a hand towel in hot water, and then stuck it into a plastic bag. Dryers work fine, too.

    hiroo yamagata -

    Thanks for this, the other instructions make it seem SOOOOO simple to open up the case with the suction cup! It actually is hellish. The instruction here about the pre-heating and the required patience really helped!

    hiroo yamagata - Contestar

    For those of you who don’t have an iOpener or a girlfriend, I used a ziplock bag with some instant mashed potato inside. It worked perfectly first time and you can fold the bag around the ID button in order to prevent damage to it.

    You also get to celebrate by eating the mash afterwards, HUZZAH!

    Adrian - Contestar

    I found this to be completely useless. It didn’t help at all. I had to use a heat gun instead. Waste of money.

    David Gordon - Contestar

    I’ll experiment with leaving the phone in the sun until the Temperature Warning comes up so the phone tells me when it’s too hot to be safe.

    Maybe it will be hot enough, maybe it won’t—

    edmk5000 - Contestar

    I use a rice pack in the microwave. White dry rice in a sock sown or tied, then microwave (1 minute +/-). The dry rice heats and retains heat for a long time. My kids loved them in in bed during cold winter nights.

    Todd Oeftger - Contestar

    I have changed now Iphone 5 Battery, IPhone 7 front camera & another iPhone 7 rear camera. The instructions along with the comments are really important. Be patient & read them several times. By using your heated gel pack 3-4 times for 2 mins or so on the bottom end near the touch button you will be able to pry with your razor & then you can use your spudger. Thanks for this great guide.

    Kala - Contestar

    I would DEFINITELY recommend to NOT use direct heat (hair drier, etc.) on the phone. I used a hair drier to help heat the phone and ended up damaging the home button (would not work after the replacement and I did not touch or take apart the home button). Note that a damaged home button cannot be replaced so I will end up using the alternative “screen” home button going forward with my phone. Instead I would recommend preheating something else (example - metal / coins / ceramic / beads / glass stones / cookware / etc..) to a warm-to hot (but not burning hot) touch and place the heated items on the IPHONE (or visa versa) to heat and soften the adhesive.

    Ed Scannell - Contestar

  3. Conecta una ventosa a la mitad inferior del conjunto de la pantalla, justo por encima del botón de inicio. Asegúrate de que la ventosa no se coloque sobre el botón de inicio, ya que esto evitará que se forme un sello entre la ventosa y el vidrio frontal.
    • Conecta una ventosa a la mitad inferior del conjunto de la pantalla, justo por encima del botón de inicio.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa no se coloque sobre el botón de inicio, ya que esto evitará que se forme un sello entre la ventosa y el vidrio frontal.

    • Si tu pantalla está seriamente partida, cubrirla con una capa de cinta de embalar transparente puede ayudar en el agarre de la ventosa de succión. Alternativamente, se puede usar una cinta muy fuerte en lugar de la ventosa. Si todo lo demás falla, puedes pegar la ventosa de succión con superglue a la pantalla rota.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - Contestar

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - Contestar

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - Contestar

    I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.

    Mary Knapp - Contestar

    Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!

    Stephan Lienhard - Contestar

    Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?

    Rexx Havok - Contestar

    The suction cup that is. supplied with the essentials kit doesn’t work that well.

    Laurence - Contestar

  4. Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa para crear un pequeño espacio entre el ensamblaje de pantalla y la caja trasera. Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger en el hueco. El adhesivo  que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar es muy fuerte, y la creación de esta separación inicial requiere una cantidad significativa de fuerza. Si te resulta difícil crear una abertura, oscila la pantalla hacia arriba y abajo para debilitar el pegamento hasta que puedas insertar el  spudger.
    • Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa para crear un pequeño espacio entre el ensamblaje de pantalla y la caja trasera.

    • Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger en el hueco.

    • El adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar es muy fuerte, y la creación de esta separación inicial requiere una cantidad significativa de fuerza. Si te resulta difícil crear una abertura, oscila la pantalla hacia arriba y abajo para debilitar el pegamento hasta que puedas insertar el spudger.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - Contestar

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)

    Cristef -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - Contestar

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - Contestar

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - Contestar

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - Contestar

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - Contestar

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - Contestar

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - Contestar

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - Contestar

    Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.

    ted - Contestar

    Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.

    Christian Groothuis -

    It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just a question. After this operation the impermeability function was compromitted?

    bentek86 - Contestar

    The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)

    Andrew Lansdowne - Contestar

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Contestar

    I used a hair drier while lifting up at the same time until I could get the too inside. The seal is pretty finicky. Just take your time and you should be fine. Work the hair drier and the tool all the way around before lifting the screen up and off. There will likely be sealant stuck between the screen and phone. You can just break it with the tool.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    This step was impossible for me despite using a blow dryer and having no cracks on the screen. I finally took it to a local repair place and had them do battery replacements for two iPhone 7’s. The girl let me watch her do it. She used a razor blade (just until she had a small opening that she could hold open with her fingernail) and confirmed that she too would have difficulty opening it with a plastic tool and suction cup. The plastic tool was great for prying the rest of it open once a crack was there, but she said she would never try to use that as the tool to initially open it. The tools provided for initially prying open the screen are inadequate.

    Chad Twedt - Contestar

    Hopeless - no chance to get the screen off without any damage. No matter what tools, heat etc.

    Anatole Beams - Contestar

    I second what others have said, definitely use a razor blade to break the seal! Heat helps some, but too much direct heat is bad for the screen. Would have been impossible if I hadn’t read the comments, thanks everybody!

    Kit - Contestar

    Use extreme caution on this step. I was just replacing my battery and now i’m buying a new screen. The screen was very stuck, I pulled to hard and it popped off suddenly, completely destroying the screen.

    moose - Contestar

    When the right heat is reached, the easiest way is to use a metal iFlex to create the initial gap, then insert the Jimmy or iSesamo next to it so the gap gets bigger, at this point you can get in with the flat edge of a plastic spudger and slowly slide it in the borders to cut the adhesive. You will still need to force a bit the upper end to separate the screen by pulling it down while keeping up the screen, and twist to the right. I hope this is clear enough. Never apply too much strength too quickly anyway.

    Stefano Restuccia - Contestar

    I used the short blade of my swiss knife to make an initial opening. Using the sharp edge, inserting about 1 mm straight down and twisting down into a 45° angle. Then I was able to insert the spudger.

    John van de Loo - Contestar

    This is a difficult step. Fortunately, I had another suction cup from an earlier repair available, so I applied one to each side of the phone. After warming with a hair dryer, I was able to pull the two suction cups far enough away that another person could easily insert the spudger.

    The third hand was essential.

    Mark - Contestar

    I found this tactic to be the best solution for us. I used two suction cups, one on each side of the phone, and another set of hands to get a pry tool under the display. We still had to take our time prior while heating the adhesive, but were able to pry the display fairly easily using the two suction cup method.

    Lucas -

    It was a really excruciating process of heating, lifting with the suction cup, trying to slide in the spudger/pick, and repeating the process for 20 times or so. But in the end, my patience paid off!

    hiroo yamagata - Contestar

    I used a hair dryer, then used a safety razor blade parallel to the bottom edge to push straight down (from the glass side, towards the back) while lifting with the suction cup. I wiggled the blade (top to bottom) while pressing down gently, until I saw a gap that would accept the spudger. It did not take much force on the blade or much wiggling, just patience.

    Gene Merritt - Contestar

    Followed Gene’s approach with heat and a razor blade. I was nervous, but went slow; it was very easy and effective. Great tip. Just be patient and don’t rush yourself.

    Michael J - Contestar

    I would skip right to using a single edge razor blade and a hair dryer to create the gap needed for the spudger.

    Logan Brown - Contestar

    Think plunging the toilet - it did not work for me for a long time. the suction cup would not stay held on a long pull. I found that tiny push-pull repeated motions, reseating the suction cup with each push slowly overcame the adhesive, and contributed heat :). I had it after about 50-70 cycles

    Andrew Balanda - Contestar

    seconding this comment from Ted ~~~ “the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).”

    natjpollard - Contestar

    I echo what everyone is saying here, the spudger just isn’t good enough for this and neither is a pick. The razor is the best way to go. I tried using a very sharp penknife blade and managed to damage my LCD (somehow!) and the bezel so I ended up having to buy a new screen display as well as a new battery. Think twice before doing this. Be prepared to shell out for a new screen just in case it goes wrong. You’ll also need the heat gun (the iopener was useless). If you do need to buy a new screen, make your life easier and get one with the speaker, forward-facing camera, home button, etc., already attached (you can then replace the home button) or you’ll end up having to transfer all these from your old display.

    David Gordon - Contestar

    I finally got the screen up but shattered it in the process. I was replacing it anyway but if the screen is not what you’re replacing, take EXTEME caution. The suction cup and spudger were not working for me to get it started. Thanks to the comments, I used a razor blade and a heating pad and went back and forth, back and forth, between heat and pressure from the blade. Once you get a gap, the spudger works great and the screen comes up easy.

    Nick Nave - Contestar

  5. Desliza el spudger a la izquierda a lo largo del borde inferior del iPhone. Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa trasera. Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa trasera.
    • Desliza el spudger a la izquierda a lo largo del borde inferior del iPhone.

    • Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa trasera.

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Contestar

    I used a hairdryer and a razor

    Gina Torres - Contestar

    The photos are a con. You cannot get a spudger in unless you can lift the screen. You cannot lift the screen because of the adhesive. Using a anything metal will damage the paintwork or the glass edge.

    Anatole Beams - Contestar

    I agree, these guides are half imaginary idealism it seems. A thin metal edge pushed vertically down just a fraction of a mm will cause the adhesive to weaken better than any amount of heat, but affects the final appearance sadly.

    Jesse de Vries - Contestar

  6. Desliza el spudger por el lado izquierdo del iPhone, comenzando en el borde inferior y deslizando hacia los botones de control de volumen y el interruptor de silencio. No hagas palanca en el borde superior del teléfono, corres el riesgo de dañar los clips de plástico que sujetan la pantalla. No hagas palanca en el borde superior del teléfono, corres el riesgo de dañar los clips de plástico que sujetan la pantalla.
    • Desliza el spudger por el lado izquierdo del iPhone, comenzando en el borde inferior y deslizando hacia los botones de control de volumen y el interruptor de silencio.

    • No hagas palanca en el borde superior del teléfono, corres el riesgo de dañar los clips de plástico que sujetan la pantalla.

    Be VERY careful on this next step going up the right side of the phone. There is a ribbon cable 1/3 of the way up from the bottom that is very close to the edge. Do NOT use the blue triangle!!!! Just lightly rotate the spudger to get separation on the edge.

    Timothy Varvais - Contestar

  7. Inserta el borde plano de un spudger en la esquina inferior derecha del dispositivo. Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre el ensamblaje de la pantalla y la caja trasera. Desliza el extremo plano del spudger por el lado derecho del teléfono para romper el adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar.
    • Inserta el borde plano de un spudger en la esquina inferior derecha del dispositivo.

    • Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre el ensamblaje de la pantalla y la caja trasera.

    • Desliza el extremo plano del spudger por el lado derecho del teléfono para romper el adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar.

    • No introduzcas el spudger más allá del adhesivo para evitar dañar los delicados cables de cinta a lo largo del borde derecho.

    Shoot. I broke the sensitive ribbon cable because I didn’t quite understand what the instructions meant with not to insert the spudger further than the adhesive. It means depth wise, not up the side. Sigh.

    Leo Hwang - Contestar

  8. Levanta la ventosa para levantar la pantalla y abra el iPhone. No levantar la pantalla más de 10º ya que hay cables planos  a lo largo del borde derecho del dispositivo que conecta la pantalla con la placa lógica.
    • Levanta la ventosa para levantar la pantalla y abra el iPhone.

    • No levantar la pantalla más de 10º ya que hay cables planos a lo largo del borde derecho del dispositivo que conecta la pantalla con la placa lógica.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - Contestar

    Made this mistake

    rachael.grime - Contestar

    Somehow my phone turned itself back on during the opening. Scared me a little, like a patient coming out of anesthesia during the operation. I was able to turn it back off. Gotta be more careful where you grab this thing.

    Bryant Larsen - Contestar

  9. Tira hacia arriba de la pequeña protuberancia en la ventosa para sacarla del panel frontal.
    • Tira hacia arriba de la pequeña protuberancia en la ventosa para sacarla del panel frontal.

    very nice

    iPhone 7 back cover

    http://WHITEWINGS.IN/

    Vikash Kumar - Contestar

  10. Desliza una púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPhone, entre la caja trasera y el panel frontal, para romper el adhesivo restante que sujeta la pantalla en su lugar. Ten cuidado de no dañar los clips de plástico en el borde superior del teléfono.
    • Desliza una púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPhone, entre la caja trasera y el panel frontal, para romper el adhesivo restante que sujeta la pantalla en su lugar.

    • Ten cuidado de no dañar los clips de plástico en el borde superior del teléfono.

    The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.

    Andrew Lansdowne - Contestar

    This is relevant for other guides than the display replacement guide.

    jvalaamo -

    プラスチックのクリップという

    表現に混乱しました。

    上部に食い込んでいる

    差し込みのことだったんですね。

    下に引っ張ったら抜けました。

    情報ありがとうございました。

    MARU - Contestar

  11. Tira del ensamblaje de la pantalla ligeramente hacia afuera desde el borde superior del teléfono para desenganchar los clips que lo sujetan a la caja posterior. Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la tapa posterior de un libro. No intentes separar por completo la pantalla todavía, ya que hay varios cables frágiles que aún la conectan a la placa lógica del iPhone.
    • Tira del ensamblaje de la pantalla ligeramente hacia afuera desde el borde superior del teléfono para desenganchar los clips que lo sujetan a la caja posterior.

    • Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la tapa posterior de un libro.

    • No intentes separar por completo la pantalla todavía, ya que hay varios cables frágiles que aún la conectan a la placa lógica del iPhone.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - Contestar

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - Contestar

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - Contestar

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - Contestar

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    Same, I only had one fall out and I had no idea if important, and didn’t re-add - because I wasn’t sure where it fell from - but it was definitely from the home screen button….watch it be important. -__-

    Nicole Crome -

    I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.

    Natan Haładyn - Contestar

    This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.

    neila - Contestar

    I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.

    Laurencio Gonzalez - Contestar

    Keep the suction cup on the display to keep it propped up while you disconnect the ribbon cables.

    minimalist - Contestar

    I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches underneath the lower connector bracket. Be SURE when you lift the display, you do it from left to right. I thought I had the phone oriented correctly in my hand, but I was mistaken.

    John Murray - Contestar

    Put the suction cup on the right side of the middle of the screen when you rotate it up and out. It serves as a nice stand to take the pressure off the connectors.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    no mention of what you do once u open the book. are the ribbons long enough to lie flat  or do we have to keep screen raised while removing screws,, like when we hold screen up 45 degrees while removing 5 screw plat when at top of phone. I only realised how fragile the ribbons are and how important it is to use suction  cup to rest screen on an angle so ribbons don't stretch or cut on frame.

    thanks for the above comments and probably the most important section. I just hope I closed t before I fdid any damage. its lke the fragility of iPhone 3’s all over again.

    scallyteacher - Contestar

    I just broke one of the cables… yeah, it is not nice… I’m lucky in the sense the screen is still working, but the button is not.

    Trying a cheap screen on Ebay (that contains the cable) do 20$, after that, it’s a new cellphone…

    Vincent Poirier - Contestar

    Be EXTREMELY careful when you lift up the screen. I broke 3D touch cable, and the home button stopped working. Had to replace the whole display.

    Sizun Cho - Contestar

    Attention ! J’ai cassé la nappe de la caméra avant !

    arnauldjouanny - Contestar

  12. Retira los siguientes tornillos triples Y000 del soporte del conector inferior:
    • Retira los siguientes tornillos triples Y000 del soporte del conector inferior:

    • Tres tornillos de 1.2 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.4 mm

    • Durante esta reparación, lleva cuenta de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que cada tornillo vuelva al lugar exacto de donde salió para evitar dañar tu iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Contestar

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Contestar

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Contestar

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Contestar

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Contestar

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Contestar

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Contestar

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Contestar

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Contestar

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Contestar

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Contestar

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Contestar

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Contestar

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony - Contestar

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - Contestar

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - Contestar

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - Contestar

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - Contestar

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - Contestar

    I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

    qwerty77x - Contestar

    Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

    Galen Wollenberg - Contestar

    The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

    All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

    Mark - Contestar

    To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws.  This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.

    Darren Thibodaux - Contestar

  13. Retira el soporte del conector inferior.
    • Retira el soporte del conector inferior.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Contestar

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Contestar

    So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

    Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

    Ian Fritz - Contestar

    Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

    Ian Fritz -

    Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.

    Cynthia Lamb - Contestar

  14. Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Dobla el cable del conector ligeramente hacia arriba para evitar que haga contacto con el zócalo y suministra energía al teléfono. Dobla el cable del conector ligeramente hacia arriba para evitar que haga contacto con el zócalo y suministra energía al teléfono.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Dobla el cable del conector ligeramente hacia arriba para evitar que haga contacto con el zócalo y suministra energía al teléfono.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - Contestar

    Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

    I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

    The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

    It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

    jason - Contestar

    In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.

    Dave Miller - Contestar

    Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.

    Tomoharu Eguchi - Contestar

  15. Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o reconectar los cables en este paso. Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger o tu uña  para desconectar los dos conectores inferiores de la pantalla haciendo palanca  hacia arriba de sus puertos de conexión en la placa lógica. Para reconectar estos cables, presiona un extremo hasta que encaje en su lugar, luego repite en el extremo opuesto. No presiones en el medio. Si el conector está ligeramente mal alineado, el conector se puede doblar y causar daño permanente.
    • Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o reconectar los cables en este paso.

    • Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger o tu uña para desconectar los dos conectores inferiores de la pantalla haciendo palanca hacia arriba de sus puertos de conexión en la placa lógica.

    • Para reconectar estos cables, presiona un extremo hasta que encaje en su lugar, luego repite en el extremo opuesto. No presiones en el medio. Si el conector está ligeramente mal alineado, el conector se puede doblar y causar daño permanente.

    • Si tienes un pantalla en blanco, líneas blancas en la pantalla, o no tienes respuesta táctil completa o parcial después de volver a ensamblar tu teléfono, intenta desconectar y reconectar con cuidado ambos cables y asegúrate de que estén encajados completamente.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    Reemplazo Adhesivo de Pantalla iPhone

    minimalist - Contestar

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - Contestar

    Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

    garrett peek - Contestar

    An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

    Mark - Contestar

    Hey – I broke one of these flex cables and I cant find them to purchase anywhere. Can somebody help me? It’s the LCD connector first and what is the second flex cable for? Thanks!

    Chan Ty - Contestar

    I broke the second (smaller) display connector flex cable.

    1) Is it replaceable or repairable?

    2) Where can I get the replacement?

    Ben Blom - Contestar

    I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?

    Thanks for advice!

    Bjorn - Contestar

    this point is the most important in the whole manual.

    Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking

    Jose Joaquín Sanz Iniesta - Contestar

    I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.

    My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.

    Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.

    I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.

    Stuart - Contestar

  16. Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips 1.3mm que aseguran el soporte sobre el conector del sensor del panel frontal. Algunos teléfonos podrían ser Y000. Apple comenzó a utilizar Y000 para estos en algún momento de la mitad del ciclo de vida del producto. Algunos teléfonos podrían ser Y000. Apple comenzó a utilizar Y000 para estos en algún momento de la mitad del ciclo de vida del producto.
    • Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips 1.3mm que aseguran el soporte sobre el conector del sensor del panel frontal.

    • Algunos teléfonos podrían ser Y000. Apple comenzó a utilizar Y000 para estos en algún momento de la mitad del ciclo de vida del producto.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Contestar

    If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

    the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

    If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

    If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

    If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

    there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

    Vegeta Barrett -

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Contestar

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Contestar

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Contestar

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Contestar

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Contestar

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Contestar

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Contestar

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - Contestar

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - Contestar

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - Contestar

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving - Contestar

    You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

    jack jones - Contestar

    Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

    Nicole Crome - Contestar

    What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

    Alex Vu - Contestar

    I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Contestar

    I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.

    Takumi Arai - Contestar

  17. Desconecta el conector del sensor del panel frontal de su puerto de conexión con la placa lógica. Este conector a presión  debe ser reconectado al finalizar en el mismo momento para minimizar el riesgo de que se doble.
    • Desconecta el conector del sensor del panel frontal de su puerto de conexión con la placa lógica.

    • Este conector a presión debe ser reconectado al finalizar en el mismo momento para minimizar el riesgo de que se doble.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Contestar

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Contestar

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the only connector that is quite easily possible to put back in the wrong way. If you do so, the phone will just get into a continuous loop where it shows the boot screen, goes blank and then shows the boot screen again and again. If this happens, do not despair-just put it back in the right way.

    Roy Mathew - Contestar

    After putting together, I had a continuous loop boot up (as noted above). I saw articles where this (front panel sensor connection) was the reason. I disconnected this connection and the boot up loop stopped. I tried reconnecting several times but had the same problem (boot up loop). However, it turns out that I needed to apply extra pressure when installing until a heard a (faint) second click when pressing down. Note - before I was using the spudger to press the connection together, which didn’t do the job. I ended up using my finger to press harder to get it to click in. Solved that issue.

    Ed Scannell - Contestar

  18. Retira el ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Contestar

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Contestar

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - Contestar

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

  19. Retira los tres tornillos Phillips que fijan el soporte del auricular al panel frontal:
    • Retira los tres tornillos Phillips que fijan el soporte del auricular al panel frontal:

    • Dos tornillos de 2.6 mm

    • Un tornillo de 1.7 mm

    I am measuring the screws; my digital caliper measures both the top at 1.88mm not 2.6

    Marco Cueva - Contestar

    I just checked the screw measurements and they match what’s shown in the guide. Are you sure you’re looking at the right screws?Are you sure your caliper is accurate? Was your iPhone serviced in the past and reassembled incorrectly? Something isn’t right. The measurements here are the screw lengths, by the way—just in case you were measuring something else.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    does anyone know the size of the srew on top left of the picture, next to the left red marked one? i know it’s for the earpiece in the display but i don’t know which screw has to be in there.

    butch coolidge - Contestar

    When reassembling the ear/speaker piece the plate and screws don’t seem to sit in snug and screws seem not to catch?? Any ideas what could be making this part hard to reassemble?

    ramsayapril - Contestar

    It sounds like something’s blocking the earpiece speaker bracket from sitting flat. It’s possible that any of the parts under the bracket aren’t fully seated and are sitting a little higher than they should be. There also could be bunched up adhesive or other debris stuck under any of those parts. I’d recommend double-checking that all the parts under the bracket are clean and are sitting correctly in their slots on the display.

    Adam O'Camb -

  20. Retira el soporte del auricular
    • Retira el soporte del auricular

  21. Levanta y separa la cámara frontal para poder acceder al auricular Levanta y separa la cámara frontal para poder acceder al auricular
    • Levanta y separa la cámara frontal para poder acceder al auricular

  22. Retira los otros dos tornillos Phillips que fijan el auricular al panel frontal:
    • Retira los otros dos tornillos Phillips que fijan el auricular al panel frontal:

    • Un tornillo de 1.9 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.5 mm

    Hi!What size is the third screw?

    Лёха Н - Contestar

    i have the same question. Does anyone know which size the third screw on the picture (not marked) has? would be great if someone can help me out with that. thanks a lot!

    butch coolidge -

    If I measured correctly, it’s a PH000 1,2 mm

    Bram Driesen -

    I noticed the the third screw is a Y000 on a replacement screen.

    Brandon Ferens -

    It is not necessary to remove the third blue screw in order to remove the ear piece.

    Brandon Ferens - Contestar

  23. Saca el altavoz auricular.
    • Saca el altavoz auricular.

  24. Calienta un iOpener y aplícalo al borde superior de la pantalla para ablandar el adhesivo que sujeta el ensamblaje de cámara frontal y sensor en su lugar.
    • Calienta un iOpener y aplícalo al borde superior de la pantalla para ablandar el adhesivo que sujeta el ensamblaje de cámara frontal y sensor en su lugar.

    • Espera alrededor de dos minutos antes de seguir con el siguiente paso para ablandar adecuadamente el adhesivo.

  25. Utiliza la punta de un spudger para levantar cuidadosamente el sensor de luz ambiental de su zócalo en el panel frontal. Trata de colocar tu herramienta totalmente debajo del sensor para levantarlo del plástico claro debajo. Si haces palanca solo contra el cable, el sensor podría separarse del ensamblaje de cable y necesitará reemplazarse. Si estás reemplazando el ensamblaje de cable/sensor de todas formas, entonces no importa.
    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para levantar cuidadosamente el sensor de luz ambiental de su zócalo en el panel frontal.

    • Trata de colocar tu herramienta totalmente debajo del sensor para levantarlo del plástico claro debajo. Si haces palanca solo contra el cable, el sensor podría separarse del ensamblaje de cable y necesitará reemplazarse. Si estás reemplazando el ensamblaje de cable/sensor de todas formas, entonces no importa.

    I’m sorry to comment but this step is wrong. The proximity sensor is sticked to the display. I was following this instruction and the sensor was unvelded from the flex cable. Now it’s workless. It’s a fortune that the only problem with the iPhone is that while calling and holding the phone to the ear, the display doesn’t turn off.

    I recommend to gently pushing against the transparent plastic enclosure near the sensor and once it’s unsticked, keep pushing against the sensor’s body. In this way the sensor welding doesn’t bear/support any extra load on it.

    At least, my iPhone 7G had the sensor sticked to the display. Maybe some day I will replace it (around 20€ - 25€ on ebay)

    I won't claim to iFixit nor stop using this website. Whenever I higly recommend to iFixt technitians to revise such kind of “errors”. At least for expensive devices like Apple products.

    Miguel Cretu - Contestar

    I editted this guide and added these two comments. I already know about this “trick”. It’s your own decision to follow my suggestion or not.

    Miguel Cretu - Contestar

    I have fixed 2 screens now on iPhone 7. The 1st time I didn’t have this problem, 2nd time I did. I would agree with Miguel Cretu and save yourself the hassle and remove the sensor and it’s surround altogether.

    Wayne Lyell - Contestar

    In the second picture, there is the splugger that’s on it’s right is near a little window square, white inside. I’ve checked my replacement display and it don’t have inside in WHITE in this little window . Anyone know why have this color (it is not a sticker) and what is the reason? Thanks

    fakirox - Contestar

    I also had to pop out the clear plastic surround of the front camera to put into my new screen. It’s just glued in, so heat and pop it out with a spudger. Best to do this step last so you don’t accidentally tear any ribbons.

    Grant Barker - Contestar

    I actually found that removing the assembly from the other side (like the step 35) is a bit easier. Also, heat is really useful! I took an hair dryer, and for at least 3 minutes I heated by interval the piece, and at the end, the glue was so soft, it was really easy to remove!

    Vincent Poirier - Contestar

    I forgot to read the comments for this step (unfortunately) and had the same issue like Miguel. I think the guide should write that “gently pry the ambient light sensor and its transparent plastic case from the front panel”. If you do not need the plastic case there is no problem, mine practically fell out from the rest of the sensor after turning it upside down.

    Kristóf - Contestar

  26. Desliza la púa hacia el recoveco de la cámara frontal separando el adhesivo que sujeta el cable al panel frontal. Deténte justo antes de los postes de tornillo. Desliza la púa hacia el recoveco de la cámara frontal separando el adhesivo que sujeta el cable al panel frontal. Deténte justo antes de los postes de tornillo. Desliza la púa hacia el recoveco de la cámara frontal separando el adhesivo que sujeta el cable al panel frontal. Deténte justo antes de los postes de tornillo.
    • Desliza la púa hacia el recoveco de la cámara frontal separando el adhesivo que sujeta el cable al panel frontal. Deténte justo antes de los postes de tornillo.

  27. Usa la púa para levantar el cable de la cámara de los dos postes de plástico en el panel frontal y separarlo del último resto del adhesivo. Usa la púa para levantar el cable de la cámara de los dos postes de plástico en el panel frontal y separarlo del último resto del adhesivo. Usa la púa para levantar el cable de la cámara de los dos postes de plástico en el panel frontal y separarlo del último resto del adhesivo.
    • Usa la púa para levantar el cable de la cámara de los dos postes de plástico en el panel frontal y separarlo del último resto del adhesivo.

    на рисунке №2 винт 3 отсутствует, на рисунке № 3 винт 3 присутствует. нет описание где он был вывинчен. последний винт с правой стороны, около камеры

    Vitaly Savin - Contestar

  28. Remueve la cámara frontal y el cable de sensor.
    • Remueve la cámara frontal y el cable de sensor.

    Look at the camera assembly closely. There are two cables soldered together. Do not separate the pieces by mistake . Get the pick all the way below both ,and they will come off together.

    turboduck2 - Contestar

    Good statement I made that mistake on my first iPhone 7 Plus !

    Jaye - Contestar

    Its not mentioned here but there is a small philips screw at the top left that you may have to transfer to your new lcd panel

    Steve - Contestar

    Hi Steve, what is the main work of this little strip with 2 small contact? Antenna? Shield?

    Thanks

    fakirox -

    do you know the measurements of that small philips screw?

    butch coolidge -

    I’ve separated the sensor and front facing camera, can I just press them back together or will I need a complete replacement

    Dominic Sore - Contestar

    About Steve comment, anyone know what is this small screw with two contact? It is an antenna ?? Shield??? Thanks

    fakirox - Contestar

    I’m also looking for info on the screw on the immediate left of the top left corner of the speaker. Did you find the info out?

    Cheers!

    Mike Grandbois - Contestar

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

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20 comentarios

Question ..... I have a clear square plastic piece (open in the center) with a tab on one side. What is that for?

Mike McCleery - Contestar

Holds the lens in place.

Edward L Johnson III -

No that is for the ambient light sensor. LCD replacements come with it already installed on em’, so you can toss it if you see it on the replacement already. The larger, circular plastic piece is for the lens.

Brandon Neves -

Does the iPhone 7 plus Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement has to do anything with the earpieces speaker? i have replace my iphone 7 plus screen and front camera and sensor cable replacement and speaker and it still doesn’t work. what could really be wrong with my iphone 7 plus?

Saleka Chang - Contestar

Awesome tutorial, thank you! I couldn’t have replaced my camera without this! Well I could have but not the right way!!

Cynthia Hollingsworth - Contestar

Hi so i was replacing my screen when this ribbon ripped. Until I can get the part in the mail is there anything else that having this ribbon ripped will do or effect?

herron.tara4 - Contestar

Hiya, I do not believe so. I damaged the ribbon, no obvious signs but must of as worked when the new one was plugged in and it did not appear to have any affect on anything else. Hope this helps.

Charleigh B -

I ripped the cable in half and was able to use my phone fine for two weeks until I had the part in hand and time to make the replacement. Calls had to be on speaker or in headphones, and I needed to manually adjust my screen brightness throughout the day. You also won't have a selfie cam.

rJ Jarecki -

I replaced my friends screen after he smashed it, must of damaged the cable as once put together the phone was on Apple logo and could not get it to turn on. Had a feeling it was the sensor and it was. Ordered a new one from Amazon and turned on straight away.

The phone would not turn on with the old one plugged in or not so couldn't be 100% but it worked and now have a happy friend. Luckily I didn't restore the phone too!

Charleigh B - Contestar

I bought the replacement from iFixit, and afterwards, the selfie camera didn’t work. and the reason for the replacement was to fix the speaker problem, because I count really understand anymore the phone calls and it also didn’t change the problem. Also the speaker was replaced with an ifixit part. and now the Touch ID is also not working.

Michael Blechinger - Contestar

the flex of iphone 7 plus are compatible with the iphone 7?

Rolando Queral - Contestar

I am looking at doing this replacement because I am having trouble with siri hearing me. I believe the earpiece microphone is in this cable but it is not listed on the part description. Can anyone verify this?

Nick P - Contestar

In this image, the microphone is the gold rectangle with the foam pad on top. You can see it being separated from the screen in Step 27.

Jeff Suovanen -

Replaced the camera, but now my microphone does not work. I can listen to voicemails from both the top and loud speaker, as well as sound over the lightning and Bluetooth connection. A pair of headphones (external mic?) Will not enable phone calls or voice recorder, but will let me listen to music.

Any thoughts on resolving this issue?

rJ Jarecki - Contestar

Double-check the connectors and re-seat them; check for damage to the cables; remove the part and make sure the microphone isn’t blocked by adhesive or other debris. If all else fails, try installing the old part (or replacing it a second time) in case you received a defective microphone. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Ho sostituito la fotocamera frontale del mio IPhone 7 Plus ma adesso se faccio una foto o un video dal app fotocamera funziona perfettamente mentre se provo a fare una video chiamata con whatsapp, messenger o altre app non funziona, come mai?

PakyScat - Contestar

I replaced the front camera of my IPhone 7 Plus but now if I take a photo or video from the camera app it works perfectly while if I try to make a video call with whatsapp, messenger or other apps it does not work, can you help?

PakyScat - Contestar

Is it possible to repurpose an iPhone 6 or iPhone 6s front camera, to install it in an iPhone7

Kwame S - Contestar

After reading the procedure several times including the comments I could successfully complete it. Thanks a lot for the clear step by step guidance & all the helpful comments.

Kala - Contestar

I am having a hard time putting the front facing camera into my iPhone7. Is there a video showing this process. The ribbon cable just does play in

F Scot Segesman - Contestar

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