Introducción
This guide will help you replace the logic board.
Herramientas
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Remove the following ten screws:
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Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws
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Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws
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Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws
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Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.
Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.
Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.
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Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.
I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.
That's a good tip
Anrothan -
One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)
Wouldn't it make life easier to fully remove the battery for this whole process? I mean, compared to the next steps it's a piece of cake and create a bit more space
On my MacBook Pro, the connector seems to be an integral part of the battery.
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Use the edge of a spudger to gently pry the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
Can the socket be soldered back if broken? Or am I screwed? Can I use the laptop without the fan?
I have the same question, looks like instead of "unplugging" these micro connections, I accidentally pried it off the Board instead. Harumph. Can these be fixed?
I successfully soldered the fan connector back on for a friend. I used a small soldering iron (maybe 6-10 watts) and ground the tip down to a very fine point. Also used a magnifying light and very fine rosin core solder. I took my time and lined everything up and was careful not to heat any other junction unnecessarily.
Yup. Be careful on this one. I was trying to gently pry up and popped it off the socket. Computer working fine after replacing magsafe board, but no fan for cooling…
This one is really delicate, as pointed out. Be careful if using the pointed end of a spudger NOT to dig down and under ….there’s a layer of plastic-y insulation that can be torn. I accidentally gored it with the pointy end of a spudger and it was slightly ripped. Fortunately, I was able to press it down and there was no problem when the cable was reinserted.
For less than $16 I ordered a new fan from amazon. Fans eventually start making noise. If they fail, your system could expire from heat. Consider simply replacing your fan since this model is now about five years old. Here’s link:
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Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the logic board:
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One 7.2 mm T6 Torx screw
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Two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws
I think so too, (maybe on a certain batch?) tried a T6 and its too big
Nope just tried a T6 and its too big, don't have a T5 but it's gotta be one
It would be helpful to have recommendations about how to clean the dust from inside. What places to direct the compressed air,
Forget the dust inside: replace the fan for about $15! Here’s what I ordered and it worked perfectly:
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Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case.
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Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.
Reminder: When replacing the cable the connector should be placed in from above. This fooled me and I damaged the seat a bit, but not enough to prevent proper connection.
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Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.
Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.
IIRC the official service manual suggests putting the blunt or wide edge of a black-stick/spudger underneath the cable and then pressing down on said cable to provide better gripping force while pulling the cable out/away from the connector. It’s my tried-and-true method of choice.
Just broke this cable by pulling to hard. Definitely use a spudger to pry out the connector instead of pulling the cable.
Same, any suggestion about its replacement?
Really grip those little bumps on the head with a pair of pliers and gently wiggle!
In case you need replacement parts for the broken cable : http://www.powerbookmedic.com/MacBook-Pr...
To find out how to replace the cable, you can have a look at this tutorial : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...
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Disconnect the following four cables:
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AirPort/Bluetooth cable
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Optical drive cable
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Hard drive cable
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Trackpad cable
On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.
Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.
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Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks
No, You'll need to replace the logic board. I'd probably just use a wired or bluetooth keyboard and put the money towards a new machine.
I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.
Buy that man a pint! I've been working on computers professionally for a decade and I've never thought of that trick. Brilliant!
Gryyphyn -
Amazing this saved me!
You've saved me countless hours of crying trying to simply push it in
Tunipguy -
Thanks! This saved me hours!
i dont know what yall be talkin bout i just ripped the top part off and then i put some back tape voerit
works great!
After I put it all back together, the keyboard didn’t work; I traced it to this cable not being plugged in all the way. I used the tape trick to coax it all the way in to seat well and it works like a charm.
I had a hard time to reattach the keyboard cables, the tape trick just saved my life.
Just a random thing to add. My Mac would not boot without the keyboard ribbon being plugged in correctly.
It’s worth pointing out that the lever to lift this is at the back of the connector and that you’re pulling it towards yourself - this then releases the plastic on top of the cable that’s holding it in place.
The tape trick was the only way it could go in for me.
PLEASE post the tape trick for reinsertion into the MAIN instructions for this repair. I managed to destroy the cable traces requiring me to replace the whole keyboard before I found the tape trick info. Please, please, please keep anyone else from &&^&^$^ up this way.
tape tip! genius! first go!
The most difficult part. It is hard to get it out and put it back. It seems there are a lot of suggests how to do it easier. I spent on this about a half an hour :( Pitty that I didn't see that suggestions before.
For me the most difficult part as well. Tape trick is great .
Foto’s of the tape trick to insert the keyboard ribbon into the ZIF socket: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5xSbqsMBbQzUqu...
This was super helpful! I started with a rolled up piece of tape, and that didn’t let me pull with enough force to get the cable inserted. Thank you!
20thme -
The tape tirck saved my bacon!! Thank YOU!
Hi, I’m not quite sure how to use the tape to get the connector back in. Any help / images would be extremely helpful
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If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.
This is the most difficult ribbon cable to reinsert. As noted in the comments for the keyboard ribbon cable above I’d recommend also using a a small piece of tape to help reinsert.
I used Blu-Tac on the end of my spudger to provide a gentle grip to get it to slide in.
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Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
The first time I reassembled the system I left this tiny ribbon connector under the logic board by accident. If your keyboard backlight no longer works after reassembly it’s because you forgot to reattach this small connector. Fortunately, I caught my mistake before securing the logic board screws. It’s an easy to miss item.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.
the sleep sensor/battery indicator were not included with my new case, i had to transfer them over from my old case. once the battery is out (step 22), you can see the three screws you need to remove in order to take it out. it’s also secured by adhesive. the button for the battery indicator will likely fall out (at least it did on mine) when you remove the board, so be careful not to lose it…my new case did come with the button for the battery indicator (even though it didn’t come with the board or cable), but i just re-used the old one.
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Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.
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Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
On my mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the display data cable was square with the motherboard, rather than at an angle. I'm not experienced with working on computer connections, but if I were going to describe this procedure, it would be more like:
"Grasp the plastic tab on the end of the display data cable connection, and pull it gently back over the cable, toward the DC-in board. The tab is connected to a flat rectangular 'ring' that locks the cable to its connection, and when you pull the tab, the rectangular lock will flip back over the cable, allowing the cable to be removed by pulling the same direction, parallel to the surface of the motherboard."
Exactly the same as on the Mid2010 Model - never pull up, always parallel to the board, using the spudger to keep the cable down might helpfull while pulling with fingers the cable towards DC-In at the right side.
Hans -
Well i found the part at amazon. how to repair it is another thing. I have to ask for help from one on this one. because its booting to a whiet screen.
My display is not working after reassemble the mac.
Any reason?
I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back!
I choose not to remove this, just laid the board over. Worked just fine.
I second this. It’s quite easy to leave this connection in place. The board flips over nicely, and everything is still accessible.
when reattaching the display cable, i used the spudger to tuck the spongy top flap underneath the cable lock, so that i could then get the cable lock down the entire way. i couldn’t get it under there (and get the lock closed) without it, the top part of the display cable blocked it.
Matt Did the internal display then turn on? Mine is still dark…
When replaced the logic board when reassembled lap top screens not working. Saw others similar issues plugged in my monitor it’s working great must have messed up any ideas how to fix?
Any update on this issue?
what did you change to fix it?
Hi Wayne, and Michael! I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back! —Shannon
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Remove the following nine screws:
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Five 3.6 mm T6 Torx screws
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Two 4.3 mm T6 Torx screws
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Two 7.2 mm T6 Torx screws
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Five 3.0 mm T6 screws
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Two 3.6 mm T6 screws
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Two 6.7 mm T6 screws
2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.
I'm just noticing this too... I've put the longer screws as the two on the far left of the picture because they seemed to be the two holes I couldn't see the bottom to.
Just took one apart and paid attention this time. On this Mac, the screws colored orange should be red, and the 2 screws on the left side of the board should be orange (they’re a bit longer).
2 of the 7 (the two red ones on the right side in the image) seem really hard to remove. Is there something I'm missing, or do I just need to try harder?
lol @ eye widening frustration. i disabled the keyboard and track pad some how after trying discon my mic. i think its cuz i DID REMOVE BATTERY AND STICKER. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.
Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.
There is only 2 4.3mm T6 on the left part of the logic board and 2 7.2mm T6 on the magsafe board. The 5 T6 left are 3.6mm
for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described
on something like this (like in iphones) i print the picture and place the screws on the picture. saves some problems and guessing.
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Remove the following two screws:
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One 8.6 mm Phillips screw
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One 5.5 mm Phillips screw
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Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.
Not necessary to remove the small screw holding the silver colored retaining clip on the data cable retainer. (pictured still attached in the guide) Cost me 45 minutes trying to get it back on which included looking for, and fishing it out of, the places where it tried to hide because it’s so ding dang small it was tough to reattach and seemed to have a guided navigation system sending it everywhere but where it was supposed to go. Additionally, the middle hole on the retainer is empty in this step for reassembly as that is where one of the long rear cover screws goes when you put the case back together.
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Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
I finally got that mic out by gripping it between two spudgers like a pair of chopsticks and gently pulling it out at an angle. The rubber shroud on it makes the thing hard to grip, and when I finally pulled it free, part of the adhesive ring tore off and stayed stuck to the chassis. When reassembling the machine, I had to kind of squish it back into place. It doesn’t hold quite as well as it did before, but it seems fine.
when reseating the logic board, first install the DC board in position and loosely seat the screws. then try to align the logic board to the 3.6mm screw housing closest to the firewire/ thunderbolt port and align the board to the ports and gently drop it into position. watch out for the cables that can get snagged under the board while seating it.
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Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.
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Without flexing the board, maneuver it out of the upper case, minding the flexible connection to the DC-In board that may get caught in the upper case.
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Remove the logic board.
Same experience here. I used a longish spudger slipped under the logic board to carefully separate the black backlight shield from the underside of the logic board. I suspect the processor and/or the GPU sticks the two together. Be careful and patient separating the backlight shiled...it is delicate..go slow and use minimal force...
I did all this, and worked! .but Im wondering, has anybody unscrewed what seems to be a mini heatsink (black 1 inch square housing) on the integrated GPU? Could I re apply paste on that?
I did make the change yesterday. inside it has a thermal pad, that appears to be 3mm or less. i try to clean on my best. I make a making a very tick pea size and added again. but i have no idea if it works or not. still having temps on 56c on idle. there is no much info on that. i use MX-4 from arctic. but i still, in my option, a little to for my use. if someone have more info on that part on the late 2011 i7 macbook pro 13inch please send the info.
I did and applied Arctic Silver 5 underneath instead of the crap tape they put under there. This alone stopped the random freezing and rebooting problem I was having with this macbook pro. I recommend if you're already that deep into it, you might as well do it. I'm glad I did.
ej257lgt -
Need help. After I put everything back together, everything works fine but my macbook just wont charge. Any diagnosis on this? Anyone who can explain to me how the battery and the charging work in a Mac?
Hi - did you figure out what the problem was? Everything working great - but not charging =/
If this happened to me, I would first suspect I hadn't completely connected the DC-in board cable. If I hadn't just replaced the battery, I would wonder if the battery was good. MagSafe power cable connect connections fail too, especially if they've been attached for a long time to a red hot DC-in board.
If those failed, I'd head to the genius bar!
I had this problem. I accidentally cut the a cable from the DC-in board and I had to buy this component and replace it. You have to be very careful when mounting back the logic board in its position to not get a cable from the DC-in board cut by the screws.
The magnetic MagSafe connector pins have a grey plastic frame which can be seen as you look at it from the outside, looking inwards at the port. This plastic frame eventually starts to crack and break-up over the years. It’s not a necessary part so if your MagSafe connector has broken grey plastic on the external end of the connector, remove the pieces as they’re there only for cosmetic reasons.
The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.
Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.
The mainboard got stuck with the speaker and I can't lift it up. So I removed the first speaker screw (Wich is nearest to the mainboard) then I was able to remove the mainboard
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De-route the microphone cable from its slot molded into the left speaker enclosure.
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Pull the MagSafe DC-In board cable toward the heat sink to disconnect it from the logic board.
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Remove the DC-in board.
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Pull the two RAM retaining arms away from the center of the RAM chip.
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Pull the RAM stick out of its socket.
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Logic board remains.
Reassembly is much easier if you take photos at each step prior to removing components. These extra photos augment the pictures you’ll find here. It’s always nice to see exactly how your system looked before you started messing with it! The top (edge by the screen) left and right corners get tricky unless you have close-ups of these areas for reference.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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21 comentarios
I decided to take out the logic board because I had a water problem. As you can problably guess all the componentes from both sides of the board, near the ventilation, were dirty with some green and white stuff so I cleand it all up with isopropilic alcohol. I assembeled it buck up and it turns on but it doesnt run the osx, screen doesnt turn on, you cant hear the welcome sound every time you turn on a mac and the only thing you can hear is the fan spinning faster and faster until it reaches its top speed and it stays like that. what can I do to fix it??
Three years later, the answer is that you need to reset your SMC.
ROBOLOBO -
is it possible to assemble the laptop completely without the unibody enclosure?
Yes you can, but it would be unsafe for the macbook
Ryan -
My macbook is not suspended when under the screen... help me
Does anyone know where can I buy the logic board?
Hi- Grateful if someone could please help me locate the SMC chip (U4900) and, if possible, the Thermal Sensor (T29) A1278 (2012) logic-board. My fan is constantly running flat-out (>6000RPM). Many thanks and a Merry xMas.
-Peter
Thanks for this!
Yesterday I embarked upon replacing the keyboard in mine for the 2nd time, and ripped out one of the connectors! After pouring over schematics, the board layout, etc. this guide told me exactly what connector it was; the webcam! This means I won’t be replacing it, since I run Linux the webcam drivers would not work anyway. This saves me a massive headache, microsoldering (Louise Rossman style) and probably breaking more things.
I think this is logic board of MacBook Pro 2011? or am I mistaken? or it is the same?? please help answer
wer repariert das ????? — wasserschaden
A friend of mine gave it to a dead macbook pro 13. So i don't know which model so try to look at back and it says A1247 and also i check the model number though apple and it says Mac book pro 13 inch mod 2012. So may question is the laptop not powering on but when i plugged the charger it's charging. How do i power using (power pads). Please help me…
Reassembled mac won’t power up. Please help. I had a lot of trouble with keyboard ribbon cable….might still not be in. Battery indicator lights showing battery power.
Hey guys,
Upgrading Early 2011 Macbook with this logicboard. Seen some comments and videos it should work.
From what I can see there is no heat sink included, so I will have to buy it separately.
But are there other componenets that need to be bought for this replacement? New speaker/microphone?
Or will I be able to reuse the other components?
I have previously upgraded with new HDD and the SSD/Dual Hard drive componenets.
Will the dual hard drive still work with this new board?
(The 2011 and the 2012 are both on the same “Compatible list” so I guess its already answered, but double checking)
BR
Odlmag
thank you! i was able to use this as a guide to getting all the way to replacing the keyboard. (which is worth a guide in and of itself). and if anyone has tips on removing stripped screws (heads stripped) iʻd love to learn them. iʻve run into that problem on at least two MBPʻs (battery, and keyboard).
Hello, wondering if I could take the next step to replace the RAM slot component? Do I need to remove the logic board for this? I can see the 4 screws that are easily visible (2 on either side of the ram slots). However, I don’t understand how it makes its electrical connection. Is this a soder job? or a snap connection? Thank you!
Hy guys,
My macbook pro mid 2012 unibody not turning on. No sign of power. Last night it was ok but in the morning next day its not turned on. I reset smc and do all things available on youtube and google. Dim green light blinking in magsafe. Without open it Authorised technician told me that your logic board is dead and its cost about $550. Please help me what could be probable cause of it. Battery was 80% charge when its working last night. What could be the fault battery or logic board or any other.
Changement fini. Passage du core i5 au core i7. Malheureusement, je n’ai pas acheté la carte mère chez ifixit (i7) parce qu’ils n’en avaient plus. Je l’ai payé 600 dollars au lieu des 300. Ifixit est un très bon site complet, et d’une grande aide.
How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?
gunes314 - Contestar
You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.
Marshall WahlstromHelgren -
Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.
Robert Wacker - Contestar
Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.
kschmesk - Contestar
Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?
taylornya - Contestar
iFixit sells a kit: MacBook Pro Unibody Lower Case Screw Set
Darrell Johnson -
I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?
rodrigosady - Contestar
I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.
Michael Wilkens -
My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.
jeremyyoung - Contestar
A good Phillips 00 is your friend here. Also, when reinserting the screws, gently start anticlockwise and you wil feel a click at the start of the thread. This tells you you’re in the right place and less likely to cross-thread through force in the wrong place.
Iain Boyd - Contestar