Introducción
Usa esta guía para reemplazar el cable flexible pequeño que va desde el cable flexible del conector Lightning a la placa lógica en el iPhone 8 Plus. Al reemplazarlo, se podría resolver un gran número de problemas de conectividad.
Qué necesitas
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Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.
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Quita los dos tornillos pentalobe de 3.5 mm del borde inferior del iPhone.
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Coloca varias cintas sobrepuestas de cinta de embalaje transparente sobre la pantalla del iPhone hasta que toda la cara este cubierta.
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Si no puedes hacer que la ventosa de succión se pegue en los siguientes pasos, dobla una pieza fuerte de cinta (como cinta de aislar) en un pequeño maneral y levanta la pantalla con eso.
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Los tres próximos pasos muestran el funcionamiento del Anti-Clamp, una herramienta que diseñamos para facilitar el procedimiento de apertura. Si no estás utilizando el Anti-Clamp, avanza tres pasos hacia abajo para seguir un método alternativo.
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Tira de la manija azul hacia atrás para desbloquear las abrazaderas del Anti-Clamp.
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Desliza los brazos sobre el borde izquierdo o derecho de tu iPhone.
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Coloca las ventosas justo encima del botón de inicio en la pantalla, una en el frente y otra en la parte posterior.
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Aprieta las ventosas para aplicar succión en la zona deseada.
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Empuja la manija azul hacia delante para fijar las abrazaderas.
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Gira la manija 360 grados en sentido horario o hasta que las ventosas comiencen a apretarse.
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Asegúrate de que las ventosas permanezcan alineadas entre si. Si comienzan a desalinearse, afloja ligeramente las ventosas y vuelve a alinear los brazos.
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Calienta un iOpener y colócalo entre las abrazaderas del Anti-Clamp.
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Dobla el iOpener para que se apoye sobre el borde inferior del iPhone.
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Espera un minuto para que el adhesivo se suelte y se abra un hueco.
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Inserta una púa de apertura debajo de la pantalla cuando el Anti-Clamp cree un hueco lo suficientemente grande.
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Omite los siguientes dos pasos.
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Utiliza un secador de pelo o prepara un iOpener y aplícalo sobre el borde inferior del iPhone durante unos 90 segundos para ablandar el adhesivo que hay debajo.
6/14/23 I did this repair but used a heat gun on low for 60 seconds. This allowed me to open the case as the instructions say, but in the end the Home button failed. I probably over heated it. I used this "go around" for a virtual Home button. I don't care about touch ID:
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Aplica una ventosa a mitad inferior del panel frontal. justo por arriba del botón de inicio.
Using just the single suction cup that is included in the battery replacement kit probably wouldn’t open the device. An iOpener and an iSlack should be the recommended method. However, you can get it open with just the single suction cup and iOpener, but does take a lot of time.
Get an iOpener and iSlack with the battery replacement kit.
I used a flat x-acto (#18) blade knife tool to gently pry back the screen enough to allow me to insert the pick near the bottom corner. I then worked the pick under the screen as mentioned in steps 5 & 6 below then. This worked really well for me.
I used the suction cup without heating the phone - the adhesive came away quite easily without applying any heat. Maybe due to age of phone (nearly 4 years old). Worth trying.
My screen was very shattered, and was quite hard to get suction, as my tape was very low quality. However, after pulling it up a little bit, I was able to insert a regular razor blade into the very small gap and used that as a lever.
Oh my goodness! Don't do that again. You can definitely damage something in the phone if you use a sharp metal razor blade..
cytur -
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Jala hacia arriba la ventosa con presión constante y firme para crear un pequeña grieta entre el panel frontal y caja trasera.
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Introduce una púa de apertura u otra herramienta de apertura en la grieta unos pocos milímetros.
After multiple tries and using a very hot iOpener, it will not open.
In sheer frustration, I pulled out my trusty pocket knife and managed to lift the bottom of the screen slightly, but in the process, cracked the glass from the bottom to the home button. The case is open now.
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Desliza tu púa alrededor de la esquina y por arriba del borde izquierdo del teléfono, moviéndola hacia los botones de control de volumen e interruptor de silencio, rompiendo el adhesivo que sujeta la pantalla en su lugar.
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Deténte cerca de la esquina superior izquierda de la pantalla.
Do not go over the top otherwise you can crack the screen. Sadly happened to me :(
The instruction should be:
“Stop near BUT BEFORE REACHING the top left corner of the display”
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Vuelve a introducir tu herramienta en la esquina derecha inferior del teléfono y deslízala alrededor de la esquina y hacia arriba del lado derecho del teléfono para separar el adhesivo.
I had really good luck using a hairdryer on some of the more stubborn portions of adhesive.
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Desliza una púa de apertura por debajo de la pantalla a lo largo del borde superior del teléfono para soltar el último resto del adhesivo.
Be very careful at this step. The glass at the top will break very easy when the display is lifted too much.
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Abre el iPhone girando la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la contratapa de un libro.
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Apoya la pantalla contra algo para que se quede parada mientras trabajas en el teléfono.
Das “links” ist auf dem Foto rechts.
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Remueve los cuatro tornillos Phillips (JIS) que sujetan el soporte de cable de pantalla inferior a la placa lógica:
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Dos tornillos de 1.3 mm
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Un tornillo de 1.4 mm
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Un tornillo de 2.7 mm
The Phillips screwdriver bit is the PH000. The measurement refers to the screw length.
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Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector de batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
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Dobla el cable conector hacia arriba suavemente para prevenir que haga accidentalmente contacto con el zócalo y proporcione potencia al teléfono durante tu reparación.
When I reassembled the iPhone 8 Plus, I had to plug it into a Lightning cable to wake it up (just pushing power button wasn’t sufficient).
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Usa la punta de un spudge o la uña para desconectar el conector grande inferior de pantalla levantándolo directamente de su zócalo.
I got hold of a iPhone 8 Plus with cracked screen that I am planning to fix.
Here is my problem:
When I tried to take out the screen from my phone, (step 15-18) I was curious about the new screen, so I tried to connect it. It was completely dead! Then I tried the old cracked one, and suddenly that was dead to! This is a phone that some fool has been inside earlier and changed battery, but I suspect he has done some more really stupid things. The Taptic Engine is living its own life and vibrating every time I slightly touch the home button. (I have a new Taptic Engine) The phone is also full of dust and small particles that does not belong there. One tri-point Y000 screw (step 18) is even missing! Now the biggest problem is that both screens are black! I know the phone is on, because I hear voice command speak when I turn on the power. The screen worked before I tried to change it? And one last thing: My new LCD screen came with new flex cables. Is it possible to switch over, so I can use the old ones?
Hi,
Is your problem solved?
Be careful of damaging MOSFETs by the LH side of the large lower display cable. After replacing the battery and turning the device on, the phone showed low charge and didn't have a charging symbol even after plugging into multiple cables and chargers. Turns out I had damaged the logic board attempting to disconnect the connector.
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Desconectar el segundo conector inferior de cable de pantalla, directamente atrás del que has desconectado en el paso previo.
I used the other end of the spudger on this connector and it seemed to work a little better for me. I came in from underneath the top-right edge instead of the bottom right.
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Remueve los dos tornillos Y000 tri-point que sujetan el soporte encima del conector de ensamblaje del sensor de panel frontal:
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Un tornillo de 1.0 mm
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Un tornillo de 1.2 mm
una vite da 1mm e due viti da 1.2 mm???
Ciao Matteo! Grazie per l’osservazione. Ho appena modificato il testo :) La traduzione è aperta a tutti. Hai quindi la possibilità di fare le tue suggestione direttamente nel testo e sei il benvenuto se vuoi usare di questa possibilità nel futuro. Grazie ancora per la vigilanza! Saluti, Claire
The tool kit does include a 1.0 or1.2mm screwdriver! How am I supposed to remove those screws?
Bought the screwdriver that supposedly fits these screws and it still doesn’t work.
My bracket looks different. Can’t get these screws out.
kit came with wrong bit. i received 2x P02 (penta tips) and no tri point y000.
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Usa la punta de un spudger o uña para desconectar el conector del ensamblaje de sensor de panel frontal de su zócalo.
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Remueve el ensamblaje de pantalla.
Should there be a step somewhere in here to point out when to remove the blue plastic from the new iFixit screen?
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Remueve los tres tornillos que sujetan el soporte en forma de L al lado del motor táptico:
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Un tornillo Y000 de 1.3 mm
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Un tornillo Phillips de 2.6 mm
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Un tornillo Phillips de 3.5 mm
De Y000 schroef nam meteen ook de 2.4 mm standoff-schroef aan de achterzijde mee. Wat lastig om die uit elkaar te halen.
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Utiliza una púa de apertura para separar con cuidado la porción adherida del cable flexible de la antena desde la superficie superior del altavoz.
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Usa la punta de tu spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el otro extremo del cable flexible de la antena de su zócalo, al lado del puerto Lightning.
I was unable to plug this back in when re-assembling. My home button doesn’t work anymore. The connector it was supposed to plug into seems to spin around.
I had a similar experience during this repair. My problem was that the nib on the ribbon that actually connects in to the socket came off the ribbon cable when I initially detached the cable. I didn’t realize this until after the repair, but I also had to replace the Wifi Diversity cable entirely. A tell-tale sign is that you don’t receive good cell reception.
Lucas -
I did not notice until reassembly, but the antenna socket pulled off the board. I have no micro-soldering tools. The friction of the connector was greater than the solder holding it in place.
The little connector in the first picture ripped the component off the circuit board when trying to pry it up so be careful. I’m guessing it’s like a previous poster said and the socket is stronger than the glue/material that holds the component to the PCB. This was on a new board during disassembly trying to locate a potential problem. Phone still workings with WiFi and cellular normally but the cellular signal is down about 1/3 on average wherever I am.
Mine broke too and wifi still works fine
Does this have anything to donwith upper speaker connection?
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Remueve la antena de diversidad inalámbrica.
This had a little adhesive on the metal band. Couldn’t just pluck it out as shown. What I did worked but what I should’ve done is run my blue puck up and down the length.
I followed these steps to this point and maybe applied force in the wrong spot or too much force and it appears that when I loosened the wifi diversity antenna from the socket below the Taptic Engine module, it came up with the socket detached from the logic board. Did I just really screw up my iPhones WiFi capability?
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Compara tu parte nueva de reemplazo con la parte original— quizá tengas que transferir componentes restantes o remover adhesivos de la parte trasera de la parte de nueva antes de instalar.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos mencionados arriba en orden inverso.
Lleva tus residuos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje electrónico.
¿La reparación no salió como planeabas? Fíjate en nuestra comunidad de Respuestas para ayuda de resolución de problemas.
Compara tu parte nueva de reemplazo con la parte original— quizá tengas que transferir componentes restantes o remover adhesivos de la parte trasera de la parte de nueva antes de instalar.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos mencionados arriba en orden inverso.
Lleva tus residuos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje electrónico.
¿La reparación no salió como planeabas? Fíjate en nuestra comunidad de Respuestas para ayuda de resolución de problemas.
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4 comentarios
My Cellular data connection keeps connecting and disconnecting consistently. I received a message “Could not activate cellular data network”'.
WiFi and Bluetooth work fine. Could this possibly fix my issue or is it more of motherboard issue?
Thank you if anyone can help. My phone is out of warranty
Same problem. Any solutions? Thank you.
So I broke the plug in on the logic board where you plug in for WiFi, is that fixable . Oh I broke the plug in for the LED light also
This is cellular antenna btw.
what do I do about super stripped screws?
Ean Palacios - Contestar
I’m sorry, your comment slipped past my radar earlier. For future fixers that might see this and ask the same question, you can check out our stripped screw guide for some detailed advice.
Adam O'Camb -
Do you need a toolkit like the essential toolkit
Adam Palmer - Contestar
Hi Adam. Having a tool kit with all of the listed parts above is best. The screw heads are very small and each set of screws needs a very specific type of driver to remove them without stripping any of them.
Kyle Luksa -