Oven Not Turning On

Autor/a: nicO (y otro participante)

Is there power to the oven?

Your oven will not work if its power has gone out. Make sure the interior lights or exterior control lights are lit. Perhaps the oven lights are on, but you can't reach the correct temperature.

Note: Most of these fixes involve knowing how to use a multimeter, an important electrical troubleshooting tool. You can find one on the iFixit store with this guide for instructions.

If you seem to have no power, check the electrical breaker. Reset the breaker in the event of a trip.
- Electric ovens need 240V AC and will have a 2-pole breaker with either two handles tied together or one handle. In either case, the breaker takes up two spaces in the panel.
- Gas ovens need 120V AC voltage supplied. A gas oven may be connected to a GFCI outlet, but this would be unusual.
Still no power? Run an extension to another outlet and test again. This will generally not be possible with electric ranges as there is normally only one 240V outlet in the home that can feed the range. This may be impossible if the appliance is hardwired.
- If another outlet works, then there's an issue with your house's electrical. Consider calling an electrician.
- Still no power in another outlet? Your oven likely has an electrical issue. Call an appliance technician, or continue troubleshooting.

After the control sends current to your igniter, current will begin to flow. As the current flow increases making the igniter increasingly hot the current will be enough to open the safety valve. At this point, the igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas. Over time, the igniter can weaken and fail to open the safety valve correctly. This is the most common failure for a gas oven.

Remove the covers and shields at the bottom of the oven, then turn on a bake setting. Observe the igniter to see if it begins glowing.
If the igniter glows, but the gas hasn't been lit after 90 seconds, there's reason to believe the ignitor has weakened. Replace the igniter. You can also check current flow in the igniter circuit, but you will need a service tech sheet or manual to verify how much current is needed to open the gas valve.
If the igniter isn't glowing, remove and test the igniter for continuity (Ω) with a digital multimeter (DMM). Continuity shows whether a continuous electrical path is present.
- if it tests open (OL) replace the igniter.
- Here are some oven igniters

Whirlpool Spark Igniter

In other ovens, you may have a ceramic spark ignitor similar to the spark plug on a car. The information below is most useful on Whirlpool oves that use spark ignition.
- Operate the bake control and see if the spark igniter operates. On Whirlpool Direct Spark Ignition (DSI) units there will be a 40 second delay before sparking starts so wait for a minute or so. This delay is to allow previously unignited gas to dissipate. The spark module also checks the gas valve solenoids to make sure they are properly connected. If it thinks they aren't, there will be no sparks and the system will be in "lockout."
- On Whirlpool DSI ovens, there will be with two sparks (1 pair of sparks) for 4 tries (about 3.5-4 seconds total time) and then the 40 second pause.
- The Whirlpool system also has a flame sensor which will detect if the gas ignites.
- If it fails after three attempts, with the pauses in between, the system goes into "lockout."
- A manual for the Whirlpool DSI system is attached 8177893 Direct Spark Ignition Range DSI Manual
Remove and inspect the spark ignitor tube for cracks in the housing or damage to the tip. This might indicate damage to the component and need replacing. There are also other types of spark igniters that are more like a metal rod with a pointed tip.

An igniter or element power supply wire will commonly burn out close to the heat source and appear blackened. This will prevent ignition.

If your oven won't start after running a self-cleaning cycle, then it's likely that your thermal switch has tripped. This switch protects your oven from overheating in normal operation. Sometimes, after a self-clean cycle (they can reach over 800°F) the switch will have tripped, mistaking the self-clean for overheating. Some ovens will have a thermal fuse rather than a thermal switch.

Turn off the breaker to your oven, and then check the anti-tip brackets holding it in place. These are normally on the front, near the door, and may require a special tool to remove.
With your oven pulled out, remove the rear panel and locate the thermal switch.
Press reset on the switch. If your switch doesn't have a reset button, then use a multimeter to test for continuity. If the switch reads above 1Ω, replace it.
If it tests good, go on to the next item.

A thermal fuse blows if it gets too hot as a way to protect the oven. The self-clean setting on ovens may blow this fuse due to the high temperatures.

Locate and test the fuse for continuity (Ω) with a digital multimeter.
Replace the fuse if it's blown and has no continuity.

The broil and bake elements are separate components and may have failed.

Turn on the oven and test each component, feeling for heat.
Remove the heating element that didn't produce heat, and test for continuity with a multimeter. Replace the element if it fails.

The control knob that sets your temperature may have failed. This part is best tested using a voltmeter and is much more model-specific.

The thermostat triggers the igniter to turn off when the set temperature is reached. A faulty thermostat may not allow the igniter to turn on. It is also involved in controlling the heating elements in an electric stove.

Remove the thermostat, and test with a multimeter for continuity (Ω)
No continuity means that the thermostat has failed.

Temperature sensors on ovens are made to have a very precise resistance usually between 1050 and 1100Ω at room temperature. They are also called an RTD and their resistance varies with heat, but much less than a typical thermistor. They don't fail very often.

The safety valve kicks on after the igniter has heated up fully. This is less likely to fail, but worth checking.

Remove the wires from the valve, and use a multimeter to check for continuity. The valve should have a non-zero value (Ω).

This board is the brain of your oven. After testing other components first, locate the relay board or electronic control board. There isn't much you can do for testing the board, so it's important to try the other fixes first.