Freezer is not cold enough to keep food frozen
Freezer is not cold enough to keep food frozen and ice maker is not making iced.
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Condenser Coils are Dirty
The condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat as refrigerant passes through them. If the condenser coils are dirty, they won’t dissipate the heat effectively. As debris builds up on the coils, the refrigerator becomes less efficient, causing the refrigerator to work harder to cool down. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will not be able to maintain the proper temperature. Check the condenser coils to determine if they are dirty—if the condenser coils are dirty, clean them.
Condenser Fan Motor
The condenser fan motor draws air though the condenser coils and over the compressor. If the condenser fan motor is not working properly, the refrigerator won’t cool properly. To determine if the fan motor is defective, first check the fan blade for obstructions. Next, try turning the fan motor blade by hand. If the blade does not spin freely, replace the condenser fan motor. If no obstructions are present and the fan blade spins freely, use a multimeter to test the fan motor for continuity. If the condenser fan motor does not have continuity, replace it..
Evaporator Fan Motor
The evaporator fan motor draws air over the evaporator (cooling) coils and circulates it throughout the refrigerator and freezer compartments. Some refrigerators have more than one evaporator fan motor. On refrigerators with only one evaporator, the evaporator is located in the freezer compartment. If the evaporator fan is not working, it will not circulate the cold air to the refrigerator compartment. If this occurs, the freezer may still get cold, while the refrigerator will not get cold. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.
The start relay works in conjunction with the start winding to start the compressor. If the start relay is defective, the compressor may sometimes fail to run or may not run at all. As a result, the may prevent the refrigerant system from running. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace it.
Temperature Control Thermostat
The temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor (if applicable). If the temperature control thermostat is not working properly, it may prevent the refrigerant system from running. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace it.
The start capacitor provides a boost of power to the compressor during start-up. If the start capacitor isn’t working, the compressor may not start. As a result, the refrigerator will not cool. To determine if the start capacitor is defective, test it with a multimeter. If the start capacitor is defective, replace it.
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in my experience, what you describe is often the result of an issue with evaporation. if evaporator coils (in freezer) get covered with ice, freezer temp will warm up. you can check the evaporator coils by removing the cover located in the back of the freezer (interior)compartment, (see a diagram for your model to locate the evaporator area). to do this, the freezer contents and shelves usually must be removed, first. commonly, ice buildup on evaporator coils is due to Defrost timer failure.
Initiate a Defrost Cycle
using owners manual or diagram of your model, locate your defrost timer and manually advance it by very slowly turning the small screw on the timer body until there’s a significant “click”. the compressor should then cut off and the frig will go through a defrost cycle (15-30 minutes). during defrost cycles the icy build up on evap coils is melted away using a defrost heater/element. at the end of the defrost cycle the compressor should restart for another cooling cycle (this cycle should repeat itself a couple of times per day).
if you find an icy buildup on the evaporator coils and you can’t locate the timer or otherwise manually initiate a defrost cycle, or if a completed defrost cycle does not remove the ice, you can manually defrost the coils using a hand-held electric hair dryer to melt the ice away. if you have to resort to this, you must first unplug the refrigerator, and make sure you hold the hair dryer above and well out of the way of any water or droplets forming during the process. place a towel in the bottom of the freezer compartment to catch and hold the melt water, and to make clean up easier. carefully direct the hair dryer’s hot air over the coils, from about 8-12 inches away, and using a side to side motion, starting above the top row of coils. work your way downward as the ice buildup melts away. once the ice is gone, remove the towel and wipe up any residual moisture. then plug the frig up.
the compressor should restart immediately upon plugging the frig back up. you should also be able to see the fan above the evaporator coils turning. close the freezer door and wait. check after a few minutes to see if the air moving inside the freezer is getting colder. recheck after another hour or so, expecting progress closer to normal freezer temperature. if so, reinstall the evaporator cover, then the shelves and your frozen goods. add an ice tray filled with water to check later, if you don’t have an ice-maker.
If you find an ice buildup on evaporator coils, then initiate a defrost cycle or perform a manual defrosting, and your freezer thereafter recovers to perform adequately, then that icy buildup was preventing your freezer from cooling properly. over the next few days ( or longer ) you may experience the same problem again. if so, you must determine why the unit is failing to perform the defrost.
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What is the full model number of the refrigerator?
Is the compressor running?
Can you hear if the evaporator fan inside the freezer compartment is running? The fan will stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the doors are both shut. It will run as long as the compressor is running.
Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the compressor and can run regardless of whether the doors are open or not or if the compressor is running or not
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Is the compressor motor running, you never said?
If not here's the service manual for the refrigerator that may help.
Go to p.99 to view the When Compressor does not run (Inverter COMP.) troubleshooting flowchart.
If the compressor is running, I realize that said that there are no error messages but try running the Self-diagnostic function during normal operation test for your model series as shown on p.70 and check if any fault codes are being displayed.
Worst case scenario is if there are no fault codes and the compressor is running then it is either a lack of refrigerant in the sealed system due to a leak or a faulty compressor.
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