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Repair information for the Samsung RSG257AA, a 2008 side-by-side refrigerator with ice through the door and automatic defrosting capabilities. This page covers information for model numbers matching the pattern RSG257AA**.

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Freezer is not cold enough to keep food frozen

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Freezer is not cold enough to keep food frozen and ice maker is not making iced.

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I have not seen any build up on the coils. I did do a defrost using the front panal buttons. The temp in my freezer feels the close to my frig. Right now I’m manually defrosting and currently there is nothing in the refrigerator. I’m making sure everything is dry.

I think i found found a problem. On the top of the freezer I believe it’s the temp gauge. It has a cut in the wire. I don’t know how to post picture but I do have

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Hi @ Frank Torres,

Here's how.

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What is the model number of the fridge?

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RSG257AARS is my model number and I posted the picture of the cut wire

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hey Frank.

looked into your model number & found more common issue here is likely low on freon. also found a great video showing you exactly how to correct the problem. look for a video posted by "The Crazy Romanian", called "How to add freon to your refrigerator 134A". Bet this will fix you up. Good luck.

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From the picture that you posted the cut in the insulation does not mean that the wire is broken.

You would need to get access to the sensor, disconnect it and then test it with an Ohmmeter to check if it is faulty or not.

If the sensor is faulty it is not an expensive part.

Here's a link to just one supplier Click on the freezer parts diagram on the left of the page and then locate part #1-1 in the diagram.

I do not believe that a lack of freon is the problem as the unit has 2 evaporator units, one in the fridge and one in the freezer. If there wasn't enough freon the fridge temps would be affected as well as there is only the one compressor.

Can you hear or prove that the freezer evaporator fan is working?

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4 Respuestas

Respuesta Más Útil

Solution 1:

Condenser Coils are Dirty

The condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat as refrigerant passes through them. If the condenser coils are dirty, they won’t dissipate the heat effectively. As debris builds up on the coils, the refrigerator becomes less efficient, causing the refrigerator to work harder to cool down. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will not be able to maintain the proper temperature. Check the condenser coils to determine if they are dirty—if the condenser coils are dirty, clean them.

Solution 2:

Condenser Fan Motor

The condenser fan motor draws air though the condenser coils and over the compressor. If the condenser fan motor is not working properly, the refrigerator won’t cool properly. To determine if the fan motor is defective, first check the fan blade for obstructions. Next, try turning the fan motor blade by hand. If the blade does not spin freely, replace the condenser fan motor. If no obstructions are present and the fan blade spins freely, use a multimeter to test the fan motor for continuity. If the condenser fan motor does not have continuity, replace it..

Solution 3:

Evaporator Fan Motor

The evaporator fan motor draws air over the evaporator (cooling) coils and circulates it throughout the refrigerator and freezer compartments. Some refrigerators have more than one evaporator fan motor. On refrigerators with only one evaporator, the evaporator is located in the freezer compartment. If the evaporator fan is not working, it will not circulate the cold air to the refrigerator compartment. If this occurs, the freezer may still get cold, while the refrigerator will not get cold. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.

Solution 4:

Start Relay

The start relay works in conjunction with the start winding to start the compressor. If the start relay is defective, the compressor may sometimes fail to run or may not run at all. As a result, the may prevent the refrigerant system from running. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace it.

Solution 5:

Temperature Control Thermostat

The temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor (if applicable). If the temperature control thermostat is not working properly, it may prevent the refrigerant system from running. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace it.

Solution 6:

Start Capacitor

The start capacitor provides a boost of power to the compressor during start-up. If the start capacitor isn’t working, the compressor may not start. As a result, the refrigerator will not cool. To determine if the start capacitor is defective, test it with a multimeter. If the start capacitor is defective, replace it.

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I clean the coils and that didn’t fix it. Also I found that in the back of refrigerator there is a panal held in my 2 screws. I took them off and there is a circuit board. The circuit board has a solid red light.

Also my refrigerator is working like normal. I’m not having any issue with my food stay cold

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What is your make and model number?

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RSG257AARS is the model

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in my experience, what you describe is often the result of an issue with evaporation. if evaporator coils (in freezer) get covered with ice, freezer temp will warm up. you can check the evaporator coils by removing the cover located in the back of the freezer (interior)compartment, (see a diagram for your model to locate the evaporator area). to do this, the freezer contents and shelves usually must be removed, first. commonly, ice buildup on evaporator coils is due to Defrost timer failure.

Initiate a Defrost Cycle

using owners manual or diagram of your model, locate your defrost timer and manually advance it by very slowly turning the small screw on the timer body until there’s a significant “click”. the compressor should then cut off and the frig will go through a defrost cycle (15-30 minutes). during defrost cycles the icy build up on evap coils is melted away using a defrost heater/element. at the end of the defrost cycle the compressor should restart for another cooling cycle (this cycle should repeat itself a couple of times per day).

Defrost Manually

if you find an icy buildup on the evaporator coils and you can’t locate the timer or otherwise manually initiate a defrost cycle, or if a completed defrost cycle does not remove the ice, you can manually defrost the coils using a hand-held electric hair dryer to melt the ice away. if you have to resort to this, you must first unplug the refrigerator, and make sure you hold the hair dryer above and well out of the way of any water or droplets forming during the process. place a towel in the bottom of the freezer compartment to catch and hold the melt water, and to make clean up easier. carefully direct the hair dryer’s hot air over the coils, from about 8-12 inches away, and using a side to side motion, starting above the top row of coils. work your way downward as the ice buildup melts away. once the ice is gone, remove the towel and wipe up any residual moisture. then plug the frig up.

After Defrosting

the compressor should restart immediately upon plugging the frig back up. you should also be able to see the fan above the evaporator coils turning. close the freezer door and wait. check after a few minutes to see if the air moving inside the freezer is getting colder. recheck after another hour or so, expecting progress closer to normal freezer temperature. if so, reinstall the evaporator cover, then the shelves and your frozen goods. add an ice tray filled with water to check later, if you don’t have an ice-maker.

If you find an ice buildup on evaporator coils, then initiate a defrost cycle or perform a manual defrosting, and your freezer thereafter recovers to perform adequately, then that icy buildup was preventing your freezer from cooling properly. over the next few days ( or longer ) you may experience the same problem again. if so, you must determine why the unit is failing to perform the defrost.

  1. it could be the defrost timer is no longer working reliably, and the defrost cycles simply are not occurring as designed, and the timer needs to be replaced.
  2. or, it could be that the defrost timer is ok, the cycles are occurring, but the defrost heater element is defective, and it’s failing to melt the icy buildup from the coils.
  3. or, it could be that the evaporator fan blades are not turning, are damaged or broken, or the fan motor itself is defective, thus not circulating the cold air sufficiently. if this is the case, you should be able to identify it quickly, as you can see damaged or broken blades, and you can feel resistance when trying to spin the blades manually, or you will see that the fan is not turning once the system restarts.


  1. in either case, these are relatively simple repairs for anyone with basic mechanical tools and aptitude, and the cost of these parts is not usually too crazy, either. if you find you do need replacement parts I’d advise to shop around on line, using your manufacturer and model number to perform the search. Sometimes I find quite a variation in these prices from one vendor to the next.
  2. Hope this helps.

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I completely took all the shelves and cover off in the freezer. Nothing was frozen over, nor was there any excess water anywhere. Freezer is still not working. Any thoughts?

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Same here, and I checked the temp sensor, defrost elements, evaporator fan, all seem ok. I also cleaned the condenser coil and checked the condenser fan. The freezer was working but stopped quickly. The evaporator coils don't even seem to be getting cold. Yet the fridge (top) is working. I thought if refrigerant is flowing in the top it must also flow in the bottom. Now I am wondering if it is the compressor or refrigerant level in general.

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Hi @ bob

What is the model number of the refrigerator?

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Same here. It makes ice still and refrigerator side is ok but freezer side is not cold enough to freeze the meat. I opened and check the condenser and there is no ice build up. I check the fan as and it appears to be working properly. It blew an air when I put magnet on its magnetic switch. The model is, Samsung RF31FMESBSR

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The odd is, the panel display reading says -7 degrees fahrenheit for the freezer but that's not true. I wonder where's that temperature reading came from.

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@Chris Johnson

What is the full model number of the refrigerator?

Is the compressor running?

Can you hear if the evaporator fan inside the freezer compartment is running? The fan will stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the doors are both shut. It will run as long as the compressor is running.

Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the compressor and can run regardless of whether the doors are open or not or if the compressor is running or not

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Hi @tonyk2829

Is the compressor motor running, you never said?

If not here's the service manual for the refrigerator that may help.

Go to p.99 to view the When Compressor does not run (Inverter COMP.) troubleshooting flowchart.

If the compressor is running, I realize that said that there are no error messages but try running the Self-diagnostic function during normal operation test for your model series as shown on p.70 and check if any fault codes are being displayed.

Worst case scenario is if there are no fault codes and the compressor is running then it is either a lack of refrigerant in the sealed system due to a leak or a faulty compressor.

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@jayeff hi- The symptom is Freezer evap coil is room temp- Not cold at all so not dealing with a coil freeze up.

-Fridge temps "ok" (set at 34 degrees actual 44 degrees), it is still producing ice.

-I replaced freezer temp sensor and defrost sensor to try something.

-All fans are working, condenser coil is clean.

I think its coolant level issue but I wanted to double check it couldn't be the control board. Thanks for the manual, i bought one last week but actually had a hard time following it (i've fairly technical too). I think i was hoping for simpler action charts to follow for everything.

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Bit of a loss to understand how it makes ice when the temp is 44°F in the refrigerator and the freezer is at room temp.

Ice only begins to form at 32°F.

Did you try running the diagnostics anyway?

Looking at a parts suppliers website for the model there doesn't seem to be a 3 way valve in the sealed system which is used in some models that controls the flow of the refrigerant between the refrigerator evaporator unit and the freezer evaporator unit depending on what the temp is in each compartment so it seems that with your model it flows through both in a series flow.

If that's the case to me it's looking like a lack of refrigerant or it could still be a compressor problem i.e. not enough pressure created.

If it is a refrigerant problem, depending on your location you may need a licensed repairer to check this out due to the environmental regulations regarding the handling of refrigerant gases.

besides which they have the correct equipment to tap into the sealed system to check the high and suction pressures in the system.

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I did try the self diag, no error code appeared there, nor was there one on red light on the rear system board (solid light there). Must be low coolant. :/ I appreciate your help and time! Thank you.

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