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If this is getting old, I’m trying to get it right so I don’t need to get another cable. This is the 2049-A, but you cannot see that since I covered the trouble area with removable double sided tape as an additional shielding step.
Where and how do I make the bends to avoid damaging the new cable? I have a pen cartridge for the job rather then bamboo skewers, as it’s the closest thing I have on hand.
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Bend where the dotted white lines are indicated on the first image. Using the original cable as a guide.
hope this helps
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4 comentarios
You do realize you got the 2011 version not the 2012 version
The 2012 version has a metal plate where the cable is screwed down.
- de Dan
I was told the 2049-A is the 2012... I didn't get the 1480-A.
I couldn't find the other SATA III cable and this is a 2012 as I was told.
- de Nick
The correct part number is 923-0104 the 2049-A is the makers ID not the cables. Compare yours with the iFixit part MacBook Pro 13" Unibody (Mid 2012) Hard Drive Cable
- de Dan
I'll probably keep the old cable around for a tester since it works but I did notice potential performance degredation. No reason to get the IR sensor if the one you have works to save a few bucks fixing the flaw.
The cables match up and I've already noticed a performance difference - not much with the original hard drive but you can tell the old cable was a bottleneck. It's still a little laggy but I have a 4GB/500GB SATA II machine - but it isn't doing it frequently anymore. Other then the cable flaw being on nearly 100% of these machines, it's not much worse then the 2012. Can't run Metal applications as I found out but I'm not too worried about that for the price of many of them.
- de Nick