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Use this guide to replace the dual microphone assembly in your Retina MacBook 2015.

To avoid logic board damage, when your MacBook repair is complete but before powering it on, connect it to low-voltage power using a 5-Watt iPhone charger and a USB-C to USB-A cable. These accessories are not included with your MacBook, so make sure you have them ready before you begin.

    • Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and flip it upside-down.

    • 2015 models only: To avoid logic board damage, when your MacBook repair is complete but before powering it on, connect it to low-voltage power using a 5-Watt iPhone charger and a USB-C to USB-A cable.

    • Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case:

    • Two 1.8 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Four 2.9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Two 6.1 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Note the orientation of the screws as you remove them—they need to be reinstalled at a slight angle.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    If, like me, you didn’t have a P5 Pentalope screwdriver but did have one that fits an iPhone.

    You can sand down the tip until it’s the right size.

    Stuart - Contestar

  1. Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case, starting from the rear of the MacBook between the hinges. Lift the lower case only slightly to avoid damaging the cables that connect the lower case to the upper case. Keeping a firm grip, lift steadily until the lower case separates slightly from the upper case.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case, starting from the rear of the MacBook between the hinges.

    • Lift the lower case only slightly to avoid damaging the cables that connect the lower case to the upper case.

    • Keeping a firm grip, lift steadily until the lower case separates slightly from the upper case.

    • You may experience a lot of resistance when lifting the lower case. If necessary, slide an opening pick or other ESD-safe pry tool down the side edges of the lower case to pop the two hidden retaining clips free.

    • During reassembly, to re-engage the clips, press firmly near both side edges of the lower case (near where the pick is inserted in the third image) until you hear the clips snap into place.

  2. While holding the lower case in place, carefully flip the MacBook over so the Apple logo faces up.
    • While holding the lower case in place, carefully flip the MacBook over so the Apple logo faces up.

  3. Lift the upper case and display together from the front edge and raise it to about a 45˚ angle. It may be helpful to prop the MacBook open in this position for the next step.
    • Lift the upper case and display together from the front edge and raise it to about a 45˚ angle.

    • It may be helpful to prop the MacBook open in this position for the next step.

    This step at the suggested height tears the ribbon cable. do step 7 first. carefully

    Kiernan - Contestar

  4. Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button. If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds. If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button.

    • If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds.

    • If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.

    • This step ensures the MacBook is fully powered down and safe to work on.

    Wow okay could someone explain why this is necessary? What happens if you skip this step and simply undo the screw to disconnect the power?

    EB Computers - Contestar

    Removing the screw does not disconnect the power—power comes from the battery terminals contacting the underside of the logic board, and they’re tricky to separate reliably at this stage of disassembly. This step is the safest and easiest way to kill power; don’t skip it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    What if I can’t get my LED to power on when reassembling the machine?

    greg2b - Contestar

    Update: Realized my USB-C connector (Step 14) wasn’t properly seated.

    greg2b -

  5. Close the MacBook and carefully flip it upside-down.
    • Close the MacBook and carefully flip it upside-down.

  6. Lifting from the front edge, open the lower case to an angle of about 45°.
    • Lifting from the front edge, open the lower case to an angle of about 45°.

    • Take care not to damage the ribbon cables that still attach the lower case to the MacBook.

    Before the IPD flex cable can be removed the battery disconnect button has be held down for up to 10 seconds. If the LED near the battery connector is switched on it shows that there is power going through the logic board from the battery, once the button is pressed and this light goes off the machine is safe to be worked on.

    Aaron Dalziel - Contestar

  7. Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector. Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
    • Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

  8. Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector. Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

    This is very tricky indeed - at least on my computer. I failed at this point - having skipped to it as sugested above so as not to stress the ribbons on the other side. The ZIF was not as I expected. They had opened when I pulled up the stick cover and I found I was working on the socket itself. The top edge came adrift after almost no pressure being put on it. The ribon did not come free with gentle pulling though. At that point I put the back on again… waited until the battery recharged a bit and found I had not nroken it after all. I doubt I shall try again. It is much harder to replace than the 15 inch - much…

    Simon Anthony - Contestar

    I’ve just found that I have broken it after all. No keyboard. Bluetooth still works so I can use the machine.

    All in all, an expensive mistake. BTW - I did NOT get the kit from IFIXIT - not sold here.

    Simon Anthony - Contestar

    I found “Recognizing & Disconnecting Cable Connectors”

    Reconocimiento y desconexión de conectores de cable

    useful, esp. for someone who has not used ZIF connectors and retaining flaps before. There are several retaining flaps that need to be opened. The first time is tricky as you need a sense of how much force to apply. I used the flat end of the provided spudger. Apply progressively firmer upward pressure until the retaining flap pops open. The first time is tricky, but straightforward thereafter.

    Ki Park - Contestar

  9. Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame. Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame.
    • Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame.

  10. Carefully turn the MacBook over, so that the lower case lays flat. Raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it.
    • Carefully turn the MacBook over, so that the lower case lays flat.

    • Raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it.

    • Add a piece of tape near the track pad to secure the upper case and prevent accidental movement.

    • It's possible to open the MacBook all the way and lay both sides down flat, but this may damage the flex cables and is not recommended.

    You can open the laptop screen all the way open with it flat in the table (screen facing up) and the keyboard should stay up.

    xavierviveros - Contestar

  11. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board. 2015 models have a silver grounding clip with two foam pads directly under this screw, which may come loose. Be sure to reinstall it during reassembly.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    • 2015 models have a silver grounding clip with two foam pads directly under this screw, which may come loose. Be sure to reinstall it during reassembly.

    the moment you opening macbook case and before any tinkering with connections, you MUST press little yellow button on logicboard, located on the right from battery connector - this will disable all power to the board. You can check by looking at the small led on left side of the battery connector - if there is very faint light, it means that power is still there. After pressing button light should go off. Removing screw is not necessary at all, and like I said - you MUST disable power before any touching to connections etc.

    DigiHead - Contestar

  12. As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector. As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector.
    • As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector.

  13. Remove the two screws securing the USB-C port cable bracket:
    • Remove the two screws securing the USB-C port cable bracket:

    • 1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 screw

    • 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    On the 2016 model the tri-point Y00 is actually a Phillips screw, so need of that special tool.

    Chavdar Christov - Contestar

    The 2015 model has the Phillips—PH000

    jay - Contestar

    This was oddly the hardest part. That Tri-Point screw just wouldn’t budge! I had to sand the end of the only Tri-point screwdriver I had in the end to get it to fit.

    Stuart - Contestar

    On my 2015 model, I needed PH000 for the screw marked in red, and T5 (as described) for the screw marked in orange

    lauren - Contestar

    The 2015 model has the Phillips—PH000

    -jay

    Confirmation as well, 2015 model does not have a tri-tip, but actually a Phillips head.

    Brandon Elliott - Contestar

    Be sure to get the metal plate under the chip near where the PT5 screw is before tightening

    abscate - Contestar

    I should have read the comments before using the provided 1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 bit. I almost stripped the screw but was able to use a small flat head bit to open the screw.

    Ifixit: you may want to update this part in the instructions. Not everyone reads the comment section, esp. when it comes to specification of bits which is basic and must be accurate. This is one of the more critical ones in the procedure that can easily go south. The rest of the instructions are excellent.

    Ki Park - Contestar

    early 2015 model here. I’ve used a Y1.5 with cautiously applied down force.

    beaudry.ian - Contestar

    My 2015 had a 2.5mm Y screw not a Y000.

    Michael Bonney - Contestar

  14. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable bracket by prying it straight up from the logic board. To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then press down on the middle of the bracket. Make sure it's aligned correctly, or you may damage the connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable bracket by prying it straight up from the logic board.

    • To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then press down on the middle of the bracket. Make sure it's aligned correctly, or you may damage the connector.

    Emphasis on aligning the bracket correctly. What the pictures do not show is that underneath the flat part of the metal bracket (the area between the two screw holes) is a connector that needs to be accurately aligned. Aligning the two screw holes does not imply that the connector is seated correctly.

    After I re-assembled my 2015 MacBook power would not come on. I thought I had damaged the logic board despite being careful and following instructions. Diagnosing the problem took a while. Retracing the steps and focusing on power supply I was able to determine that the metal flap which hides the connector underneath had not made proper contact.

    What I did was to use a finger to get a tactile feel for the connector underneath the metal bracket aligning properly and then press down vertically when it seemed to be aligned. It’s a subtle tactile feel. After re-doing this step, I got power back. Be careful not to damage the connector as noted in the instructions.

    Ki Park - Contestar

  15. Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector.

  16. Disconnect the audio jack board ribbon cable by pulling it straight back out of the ZIF connector.
    • Disconnect the audio jack board ribbon cable by pulling it straight back out of the ZIF connector.

    • During reassembly, orient the ribbon cable so that the side with the white stripe faces you, as shown.

    hey my macbook do not have sound after replacing the topcase, i did connect everything like here you did, also I did the reset of PR and NVRAM. What Can I check more? simply when I open the OS, there is no audio device at all

    dkflu - Contestar

  17. Use a spudger to flip open the ZIF connector retaining flap for the dual microphone assembly ribbon cable. Use a spudger to flip open the ZIF connector retaining flap for the dual microphone assembly ribbon cable.
    • Use a spudger to flip open the ZIF connector retaining flap for the dual microphone assembly ribbon cable.

  18. Disconnect the  microphone assembly ribbon cable by pulling it straight out of its connector. Disconnect the  microphone assembly ribbon cable by pulling it straight out of its connector.
    • Disconnect the microphone assembly ribbon cable by pulling it straight out of its connector.

    Does anyone know were I can buy the “microphone assembly ribbon cable“? It is the most delicate cable and cant seem to find spare part.

    Vernon Roth - Contestar

  19. Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the audio jack board to the case.
    • Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the audio jack board to the case.

  20. Remove the audio jack board.
    • Remove the audio jack board.

    After jack replacement my internal speakers stop working. Any solution?

    piotr2503 - Contestar

  21. Prepare an iOpener and apply heat to the upper case directly behind the microphone assembly.
    • Prepare an iOpener and apply heat to the upper case directly behind the microphone assembly.

    If you are replacing the case upper case check to see if your replacement case has a microphone assembly included. If it does you can skip 28-30

    Marco Romani - Contestar

  22. Use a fine-tip probe or pick to gently peel the dual microphone assembly away from the case. Use a fine-tip probe or pick to gently peel the dual microphone assembly away from the case. Use a fine-tip probe or pick to gently peel the dual microphone assembly away from the case.
    • Use a fine-tip probe or pick to gently peel the dual microphone assembly away from the case.

    very difficult to remove, even with heat. Can be purchased on eBay for ~ $10

    zimmerninja - Contestar

    The upper case sold by iFixit comes with the dual mic

    Tolu Fapohunda - Contestar

  23. Remove the dual microphone assembly.
    • Remove the dual microphone assembly.

    During reassembly, do you need to apply adhesive to the microphone assembly to glue it back to the case? What adhesive is the best to use?

    Andrei - Contestar

    Usually with a part like this, the replacement comes with adhesive pre-applied—just peel off the liner and stick it in place. If you’re re-using the old microphone, you might be able to get away with heating it up a little using a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the old adhesive, and then stick it down. Failing that, I’d add a little B7000 adhesive.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So this was very hard to take off. I probably didn’t allow enough time for the adhesive to heat up and loosen. But I noticed that my new upper case assembly already came with a new dual microphone assembly attached. I’m assuming that all new upper assemplies will come with a microphone preinstalled. If that’s the case this part is not necessary and can be skipped in my opinion.

    Eduardo Chavez - Contestar

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. To avoid logic board damage, when your MacBook repair is complete but before powering it on, connect it to low-voltage power using a 5-Watt iPhone charger and a USB-C to USB-A cable.

2 personas más completaron esta guía.

Geoff Wacker

Miembro Desde 30/09/13

83,734 Reputación

89 Guías creadas

Hi! Anyone would know where to find the MacBook 2015 Dual Microphone only? iFixIt seems to have it listed already assembled with the MacBook Upper Part with Keyboard. It does not seem to list this part separately. Thanks!

Neo_Hunt - Contestar

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