Introducción
Utiliza esta guía para reemplazar el conector de audio de 3,5 mm y la placa del conector de audio como una unidad completa.
Para evitar daños en la placa lógica, cuando la reparación de tu MacBook esté completa pero antes de encenderla, conectarlo a una fuente de alimentación de bajo voltaje usando un cargador de iPhone de 5 vatios y un cable USB-C a USB-A. Estos accesorios no están incluidos con tu MacBook, así que asegúrate de tenerlos listos antes de comenzar.
Qué necesitas
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Quita los siguientes ocho tornillos que aseguran la carcasa inferior.
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Dos tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 1.8 mm
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Cuatro tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 2.9 mm
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Dos tornillos Pentalobe P5 de 6.1 mm
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Levante la carcasa superior y el display juntos desde el borde frontal y levántelos sobre un ángulo de 45º.
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Usa el lado plano de un spudger para presionar y sostener los pequeños botones dorados de ‘desconexión de batería’.
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Si el LED de poder sigue iluminado, continua sosteniendo el botón hasta que el LED se apague, y después suelta. Esto puede tardar hasta 10 segundos.
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Si el LED no se enciende, suelta el botón después de 5-10 segundos. Presiona y sostiene otra vez por 5-10 segundos, y suelta. Finalmente, presiona y sostiene una tercera vez por 5-10 segundo, y suelta.
Wow okay could someone explain why this is necessary? What happens if you skip this step and simply undo the screw to disconnect the power?
Removing the screw does not disconnect the power—power comes from the battery terminals contacting the underside of the logic board, and they’re tricky to separate reliably at this stage of disassembly. This step is the safest and easiest way to kill power; don’t skip it.
Hi what will happen if i skip this step, coz i did tried to power down the battery by pressing small gold button, but no avail. the LED light still there even after more than 5 times press (5-10secs or more) each press.
Did you learn the answer to your question? I'm having the same issue -- I keep pressing the gold button but the battery light stays on.
R McP -
Mi laptop doesn’t turn it on doing that ):
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Levantando desde el borde frontal, abre la carcasa inferior hasta un ángulo de unos 45º.
Before the IPD flex cable can be removed the battery disconnect button has be held down for up to 10 seconds. If the LED near the battery connector is switched on it shows that there is power going through the logic board from the battery, once the button is pressed and this light goes off the machine is safe to be worked on.
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Usa pinzas para pelar la cinta que cubre el conector ZIF del cable del trackpad.
Only peel back the first half of the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector—do not completely remove.
Gently - lift tape while wiggling cable side to side. Be sure tape is released, but do not remove completely
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Usa una spudger para levantar la solapa de retención del conector ZIF del cable del trackpad.
This is very tricky indeed - at least on my computer. I failed at this point - having skipped to it as sugested above so as not to stress the ribbons on the other side. The ZIF was not as I expected. They had opened when I pulled up the stick cover and I found I was working on the socket itself. The top edge came adrift after almost no pressure being put on it. The ribon did not come free with gentle pulling though. At that point I put the back on again… waited until the battery recharged a bit and found I had not nroken it after all. I doubt I shall try again. It is much harder to replace than the 15 inch - much…
I’ve just found that I have broken it after all. No keyboard. Bluetooth still works so I can use the machine.
All in all, an expensive mistake. BTW - I did NOT get the kit from IFIXIT - not sold here.
I found “Recognizing & Disconnecting Cable Connectors”
Reconocimiento y desconexión de conectores de cable
useful, esp. for someone who has not used ZIF connectors and retaining flaps before. There are several retaining flaps that need to be opened. The first time is tricky as you need a sense of how much force to apply. I used the flat end of the provided spudger. Apply progressively firmer upward pressure until the retaining flap pops open. The first time is tricky, but straightforward thereafter.
Mouse back and forth between the two right-side thumbnail photos and you will get a little animation feel showing how these ZIF connectors operate—it's very helpful. Apply light but consistent pressure to pop them up. Helps to go side to side if they're a little stubborn.
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Desconecta el cable de cinta del trackpad tirando suavemente de él a través de su ranura en el marco.
it would be nice to have a specific picture of the cable and contacts and how it is oriented in the ZIF connector. This isn't clear in any of these photos or text.
My trackpad cable snapped so had to replace it and none of the replacement cables have the tape which is on the smaller end to the trackpad. The other end is fairly easy to figure out but the trackpad end isn't as the cable makes a 180 degree turn inside the case (poor design).
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Cuidadosamente voltea el MacBook, para que la carcasa inferior se mantenga plana.
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Levanta el ensamble de la carcasa superior/pantalla en un ángulo de 90º, y asientalo en contra de algo fuerte para que no lo tengas que sostener.
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Agrega una pieza de cinta cerca del trackpad para asegurar la carcasa superior y prevenir movimientos accidentales.
You can open the laptop screen all the way open with it flat in the table (screen facing up) and the keyboard should stay up.
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Remueve el único tornillo Torx T5 de 2.9 mm asegurando el conector de la batería a la placa lógica.
the moment you opening macbook case and before any tinkering with connections, you MUST press little yellow button on logicboard, located on the right from battery connector - this will disable all power to the board. You can check by looking at the small led on left side of the battery connector - if there is very faint light, it means that power is still there. After pressing button light should go off. Removing screw is not necessary at all, and like I said - you MUST disable power before any touching to connections etc.
Where it says
“2015 models have a silver grounding clip with two foam pads directly under this screw“
I have a 2015 MacBook & the grounding clip is not there!
I’m using this guide to investigate why there are lines on screen or darker screen at certain angles of opening it. Also a background ghosting effect on screen too.
No obvious damage or loose connectors so wondered if the lack of grounding clip can cause these symptoms?
Anybody out there know?
Either buy the clip and check, or replace the screen (or LB), but the macbook would more likely not start if there is a missing grounded connection, depending on what is being grounded.
Sean -
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Como precaución añadida, puedes desconectar fisicamente la batería insertando una púa de insolación de batería entre la placa lógica y el conector de la batería.
I HAD TO DO THIS TWICE. After replacing the battery while following this guide to a 'T', the battery was not being recognized by the logic board. Strangely, with the power unplugged it would still light up the screen and tell me the battery was at a critical level, but it would not boot. Resetting the SMC had no effect. I thought I killed my computer or got a bad battery, so as a last ditch effort I re-opened the case, pressed the battery disconnect button, removed the screw and inserted the battery separation tool again to Physically Disconnect the battery from the mainboard. After about 5 minutes I then removed the tool and reassembled everything, plugged in via 5v iphone charger and USBA-C cable again and LO, the battery is now reporting correctly, charging correctly and allowing me to boot on its power .
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Quita los dos tornillos asegurando el retenedor del cable del puerto USB-C:
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Tornillo tripunta Y00 de 1.1 mm
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Tornillo Torx T5 de 3.5 mm
I should have read the comments before using the provided 1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 bit. I almost stripped the screw but was able to use a small flat head bit to open the screw.
Ifixit: you may want to update this part in the instructions. Not everyone reads the comment section, esp. when it comes to specification of bits which is basic and must be accurate. This is one of the more critical ones in the procedure that can easily go south. The rest of the instructions are excellent.
early 2015 model here. I’ve used a Y1.5 with cautiously applied down force.
My 2015 had a 2.5mm Y screw not a Y000.
Adding to the helpful comments above, on replacing the 1.1mm tripoint screw, I found the the magnetism of the nearby speaker coil overcame that of the driver and would draw the screw away or the combo of forces would fling it out of the work area! After fiddling with it for too long, I used some of the battery adhesive removed earlier to attached the screw to the driver. Wax would probably work better if I’d had some.
I used the PH00 head to unscrew what they call the “1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 screw”, NOT the Y00 head, and it unscrewed perfectly fine.
Agreed, my screw was a PH00.
I have an early 2015 MacBook and it was a PH00 head I needed to use.
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Usa el lado plano de un spudger para desconectar el retenedor del cable del puerto USB-C levantandola directamente de la placa lógica.
Emphasis on aligning the bracket correctly. What the pictures do not show is that underneath the flat part of the metal bracket (the area between the two screw holes) is a connector that needs to be accurately aligned. Aligning the two screw holes does not imply that the connector is seated correctly.
After I re-assembled my 2015 MacBook power would not come on. I thought I had damaged the logic board despite being careful and following instructions. Diagnosing the problem took a while. Retracing the steps and focusing on power supply I was able to determine that the metal flap which hides the connector underneath had not made proper contact.
What I did was to use a finger to get a tactile feel for the connector underneath the metal bracket aligning properly and then press down vertically when it seemed to be aligned. It’s a subtle tactile feel. After re-doing this step, I got power back. Be careful not to damage the connector as noted in the instructions.
Good tip. It’s so easy to damage these fragile connectors by forcing the plug in and reattaching the mounting plate screws
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Desconecta el cable plano de la placa del conector de audio jalándolo afuera del conector ZIF.
The audio jack cable is a bit of a pain to reinsert. I found if I turned the screen and the bottom on its side, like an open book, I had much better orientation and it was much easier to insert.
Excellent guide and all works like a sharm, but was one issue. After full assemble there wasn't sound. Then I open Macbook again and disconnect and connect audio cable. You must insert cable so, that white stripe will not visible. And sound reveal!
This helped me, thanks!
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Usa un spudger para abrir la solapa de retención del conector ZIF para el cable plano del ensamblaje del micrófono dual.
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Desconecta el cable plano del conjunto del micrófono tirando de él directamente para sacarlo de su conector.
Does anyone know were I can buy the “microphone assembly ribbon cable“? It is the most delicate cable and cant seem to find spare part.
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Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso. Para evitar daños en la placa lógica, cuando la reparación de tu MacBook esté completa pero antes de encenderla, conéctala a una fuente de alimentación de bajo voltaje usando un cargador de iPhone de 5 vatios y un cable USB-C a USB-A.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso. Para evitar daños en la placa lógica, cuando la reparación de tu MacBook esté completa pero antes de encenderla, conéctala a una fuente de alimentación de bajo voltaje usando un cargador de iPhone de 5 vatios y un cable USB-C a USB-A.
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Please Can Someone Tell me Where i Can Buy a Replacement Ribbon Like the One Shown in this Picture? i Damaged Mine And Now The Macbook is Dead.
If, like me, you didn’t have a P5 Pentalope screwdriver but did have one that fits an iPhone.
You can sand down the tip until it’s the right size.
Stuart - Contestar
Thank you Stuart! I would never have thought of this and it worked perfectly.
R McP -
Hello,
where do I plug the USB-C to USB-A cable on MacBook MacBook Pro (Retina, 15-inch, Mid 2015)
I can’t any port suitable for USB-c !??
sissi - Contestar
My MacBook had P4 pentalobe screws, notP5
Greg Lavardera - Contestar
Big thanks to Jeff for such thorough and detailed instructions. This is definitely a more advanced repair so if you're not comfortable with making such repairs, like having experience working on iPhones, computers, etc., you might think twice before attempting. It's very helpful to read all the instructions thoroughly before starting. Plan on 3 to 4 hours—the battery removal along with its adhesive is a real $@$*-show, but totally doable if you followed Jeff's recommendations.
I'll post a few tips in the comments on each step that I think is worth noting but I will mention here one of the trickier steps. ZIF connectors on the flat cables can be a little tricky, especially if you have never done these. Before attempting to do the first one (step 8) review the others in steps 16, 20, and 25. You'll get a better sense of how these little retaining flaps flip up and what they actually look like when you study each photo in each step—they are very tiny and fragile.
Steven Gibson - Contestar
Just finished replacing the battery. I followed the directions that came with the battery instead of this guide. In short, Steps 15 to 35 are not necessary. You don't have to completely disassemble the laptop to replace the battery.
Andrew Mohan - Contestar
Thanks. I skipped it too and it worked.. It was a painstaking to remove the two side batteries as the cables were connected. But a little patience gets the job done. I did however remove the audio jack connector but from the audio board. Removed the display connector and the usb-c bracket to get the bottom case free.
Paras Tolani -
READ EVERY STEP, AND EVERY COMMENT FOR THAT STEP BEFORE ATTEMPTING! Go slow. Think first. Be organized. No probs.
David Nagle - Contestar