Introducción

Utiliza esta guía para eliminar el botón de encendido / apagado de su iPhone 5s.

Esta guía requiere quitar la batería. Las tiras adhesivas que sujetan la batería no son reutilizables, por lo que debes tener a mano un suministro de tiras adhesivas de reemplazo antes de comenzar. Alternativamente, puedes asegurar la batería utilizando un trozo de cinta de doble cara. La batería está bastante bien asegurada en el dispositivo, pero la cinta evitará que suene.

  1. Si la pantalla de tu dispositivo está rota,  evita sufrir daños físicos utilizando celo.
    • Si la pantalla de tu dispositivo está rota, evita sufrir daños físicos utilizando celo.

    • Pon tiras de celo transparente sobre la pantalla rota hasta que la totalidad de la pantalla esté cubierta.

      • Esto hará que los cachitos de cristal se adhieran al celo, evitando daños a tu dispositivo cuando se levante la pantalla.

    • Utilizar gafas de seguridad para proteger tus ojos frente a los cristales que puedan saltar durante la reparación.

    This was the most stressful thing I have ever done. I can't get the chips to pop in the top right corner, still coming up with white lines at top of screen even after re-powering the battery. Very poor experience, will let apple or a professional handle this rather than a how to. &&^& this.

    steven krieger - Contestar

    This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

    TerryChang - Contestar

    An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

    TerryChang -

    I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

    Daylen -

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

    yaterbob - Contestar

    Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

    mark40 - Contestar

    Before embarking on this, remember to order some new replacement sticky adhesive strips, as these do not come with the replacement battery. I didn’t realise this until I had removed the battery. I just replaced it without and have crossed my fingers!

    debsmcd6 - Contestar

    As to my comment above, I had to order them and fit them to the battery as it was moving around inside!

    debsmcd6 - Contestar

    There is no need to over tape the screen; one strip is enough if wider to make a full cover. My screen was super fragmented and it worked beautifully with just one layer of tape.

    Andre Silva - Contestar

  2. Antes de continuar, descarga la batería del iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de litio-ion cargada puede incendiar y / o explotar si se pincha accidentalmente.
    • Antes de continuar, descarga la batería del iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de litio-ion cargada puede incendiar y / o explotar si se pincha accidentalmente.

    • Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.

    • Retira los dos tornillos Pentalobe de 3.9 mm de cada lado del conector Lightning.

    I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

    Magnus Dalen - Contestar

    For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

    Raymond Willems - Contestar

    This is a really helpful one! My battery caught fire but luckily it was only one cell and not the entire battery. So it was done after a few seconds and I could go on with the replacement.

    Matthias Blab -

    Directions should say “use the P2 screwdriver head.”

    William Kolb - Contestar

    ifixit supplied a set of replacement philips screws (marked “Liberate!”). Thanks but I’m sticking with the pentalobe since they fit more securely than philips which have a chance of stripping if not held with the right amount of pressure.

    Don Libes - Contestar

    What are you supposed to do if the screws are stripped or won’t come out. No luck with the tweezers either.

    ibrokeit - Contestar

    Yep i‘ve had the same problem. One screw out, one that won‘t budge!!!

    Stennett -

    “cheater” reading glasses are a big help. Carolyn

    Carolyn Green - Contestar

    In this step, it is the P02 screwdriver from the kit (see that the nib has five sides , exactly for ‘pentalobe’ screws). All the other steps involving screws it was the Philips 000 (there was a third screwdriver Y 000 in the kit which I did not use). Did not have any problems at all removing and readding screws back through the process.

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    • En los siguientes pasos vas a separar la pantalla del cuerpo del teléfono. La pantalla está formada por cristal y un bisel de plástico con clips metálicos en los laterales.

    • Da igual que herramienta utilices, pero debes estar seguro de que sacas toda la pantalla.

    • Si el cristal empieza a separarse del plástico, como se muestra en la primera imagen, desliza una herramienta de apertura entre el bisel de plástico y el cuerpo metálico del teléfono para que los clips metálicos de los laterales salgan del chasis.

    • Si estás montando el teléfono y tiene el bisel de plástico de la pantalla separado, deberías poner una fina tira de adhesivo entre el bisel y el cristal de la pantalla para mantener el teléfono cerrado.

    can this separation makes the screen stop working

    bassam_shallak92 - Contestar

    In my experience, dust particles have entered the screen, and partially ruins the wiewing experience, but this far the screen still works

    Iver søbakk -

    If the screen spilt and half is still stuck in the phone (clips broke and came out), how do I get the rest of the display panel up? It appears stuck, almost glued down.

    Shara Nelson - Contestar

    I was attempting to replace the battery on a phone that had been dropped once to create a dent in the top right corner, which pushed out the screen a tiny bit in that region, but not enough to break or render it non-functional. That all changed when I attempted to open my phone. I have a 5s and I had a friend’s broken SE that I was practicing on. I did not realize that either the construction of the screen is different, or that the dent in my phone would be that much of a problem. When I opened my phone, the top of the screen popped up almost immediately…. without the plastic bevel. It took a bit to get the bottom part open, but the plastic bevel in the top part was still stuck in the frame. I panicked and closed everything, but the screen was popped out from the frame even more and now when I turn on the phone, the screen has a green tint and won’t respond to touch :’(

    Zhian Kamvar - Contestar

    • Los siguientes dos pasos se demuestran utilizando iSlack, una buena herramienta para abrir de forma segura el iPhone, la cual recomendamos para cualquiera que vaya a realizar más de una reparación. Si no estás usando iSlack, ve al Paso 6.

    • Cierra el agarre en iSlack, abriendo las pinzas de las ventosas.

    • Sitúa la parte de abajo de tu iPhone entre las ventosas.

      • La ventosa superior debe estar justo sobre el botón de home.

    • Abre el agarre para cerrar las pinzas de iSlack. Centra las ventosas y presiónalas tanto en la parte superior como inferior del iPhone.

    DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

    Izaac Post - Contestar

    Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

    Thomas Hallberg -

    This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

    Magnus Dalen - Contestar

    I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

    Andrew - Contestar

    This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

    ldavis - Contestar

    • Sujeta tu iPhone de forma segura y cierra el agarre de iSlack para separar las ventosas, separando la pantalla del chasis.

    • iSlack está diseñado para abrir tu iPhone de forma segura lo suficiente para separar las piezas, pero sin dañar el cable del botón de home.

    • Suelta las dos ventosas de tu iPhone.

    • Salta los próximos tres pasos y sigue al Paso 9

    Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair(place zip-tie around home button area and hold in place while using the tool). Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Contestar

    The iSclack tool is a no brainer. I simply cleaned both areas were the suction cup secured to and pushed the ends of the iSclack together. Could not have been easier! The use of a zip tie did interest me, but I went the easiest way for no mistakes (iSclack). Be sure to hold the top of the phone securely, when open the bottom, which ever options you choose.

    iScott - Contestar

    This worked for me. Unfortunately I managed to pinch the fleshy bit of my index finger when closing shut the handles….ouch! So just be a bit careful!

    debsmcd6 - Contestar

    • Si no tienes iSlack, utiliza una ventosa para levantar el panel frontal de tu iPhone.

    • Presiona la ventosa contra la pantalla, justo por encima del botón de home.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa esté completamente unida a la pantalla para tener una buen sellado.

    My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

    cpwittenberg - Contestar

    Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

    Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

    Craig Matthews -

    I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

    Caroline Russell -

    Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

    Malcolm - Contestar

    I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

    paul -

    This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

    daveoline -

    Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

    Lukeapple1414 - Contestar

    First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

    iGuys -

    My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

    Nathan - Contestar

    @malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

    hari - Contestar

    In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

    also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

    Robert Colvin - Contestar

    The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

    I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

    johnsonjohnr - Contestar

    Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

    daveoline -

    I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

    I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

    matttaylor - Contestar

    If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

    Caroline Russell -

    i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

    sineglabs - Contestar

    1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

    2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

    3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

    4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

    Chris Twomey - Contestar

    I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

    Bill Pennock - Contestar

    Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

    Bill Pennock - Contestar

    Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Contestar

    I concur with Bryan’s post. The suction cup that was included with the toolkit that came with my battery wouldn’t hold to the screen when I pulled on it (the rubber was pretty soft, and the surface not smooth - not at all like the suction cup shown in the pictures of this guide). Fortunately I have a suction cup with a hook used typically for hanging things on the wall of a shower that held on quite tight that did the job - in fact, I had to use the point of the spudger to get under the edge of the suction cup to get it to release. I also used the zip tie trick someone else posted for making sure the screen didn’t open too far before disconnecting the home button cable, but it wasn’t necessary - I got the screen lifted with enough control that the cable was never in danger.

    stuart40plus - Contestar

    Suction cup supplied by ifixit worked for me. Of course I used all the tricks mentioned previously: Zip ties, work on one corner at a time, and work slowly - don’t expect it to pop out easily/quickly.

    Don Libes - Contestar

    Getting cocky after replacing a display screen and battery in a 6S i-Phone, I decided to open up my own -Phone SE and replace the old battery with a new one. I used one of the flip lever suction cup devices and it worked so well, that the display screen popped open so far that the Home Button Cable was torn off from the Home Button Assembly. I followed the instructions for re-assembly, but the damage was done. Lesson learned…read the Repair Guide before starting a repair!

    Peter Bovey - Contestar

    Suction cup for itself did not work for me. Then, I used a double face tape on it, and it worked nice (don’t try to remove the suction cup until you have fully unplugged the screen though). The suction cup should be used only to make a little gap for the other tools (spudger and that one which is blue). Sorry for the all caps, but ‘PULL THE SCREEN VERY SLOWLY’ (many people here commented there was a failure in this spet even being cautious).

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    • El panel frontal tiene una serie de clips en los laterales, y hay varios cables que conectan la pantalla al resto del teléfono. Tu misión aquí es separar los clips y abrir el teléfono solo lo suficiente como para desconectar los cables. Vete despacio y con cuidado para evitar daños.

    • Estate seguro de que la ventosa esté firmemente sujeta al panel frontal por encima del botón de home.

    • Mientras sujetas el iPhone con una mano, tira de la ventosa para arriba para separar la pantalla del chasis a la altura del botón de home.

    • Con una herramienta de apertura, deslízala por los bordes del chasis del teléfono, no por los de la pantalla, mientras tiras hacia arriba de la ventosa.

    • Tómate tu tiempo y aplica fuerza firme y constante. El panel frontal del 5s es mucho mas fino que la mayoría de dispositivos.

    Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

    llcoreyll - Contestar

    Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

    idmadj -

    Agreed, I really wish I had paid extra to buy the isclack. Didn’t because I thought that I could be careful—that iFixIt provided just the suction and it would take a few days to get the extra tool. Take the time. Its not worth it.

    Thought I was extremely careful—absolutely no movement or pull. Then pop. Pulled home button cord right out of its socket. Buying a new phone later today. The extra few days and additional cash would have totally been worth it.

    Timothy Fry -

    Found it very easy to do with a single suction cup, just wiggle and pry.

    emiserry -

    It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

    Rosemary McNaughton - Contestar

    Yes, I had problems initially (with the suction cup placed just above the home button) but placing it in the left corner did the trick.

    Brian Riess -

    Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

    Konrad Tlatlik - Contestar

    Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

    Chal Miller -

    Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

    Thor Lancaster - Contestar

    Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

    W Fleming -

    Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

    bartonh - Contestar

    Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

    Kyle Rogers - Contestar

    I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

    adrt - Contestar

    We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

    Chris Twomey - Contestar

    The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

    leeprobert - Contestar

    ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

    Scott Watson - Contestar

    ifixit's suction cup and blue opening tool worked well for me. Like the zip tie suggestion as a precaution.

    Erik Osborn - Contestar

    during reassembly, screen cracked worse than screen i was replacing!!

    Valerie Egan - Contestar

    Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

    Christopher Flynn -

    I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

    stopsurfing - Contestar

    This is a great idea! Works for me too!

    JC Alice -

    This comment definitely should be in the guide!! It is an awesome hint.

    Andre Silva -

    Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Contestar

    Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

    Michal Pawlowski - Contestar

    YES! I was just about to suggest this as I tore the home cable even though I was really careful opening it.

    Arthur Shi -

    The tape suggestion worked great! I used the suction cup, and the tape limited how far the display lifted once the snaps released. I’m sure I would have ripped the cable without this. No need to buy the iSlack to do this (if you have a suction cup)

    spyder13b -

    What worked extremely easy for me was I used a utility knife to score on the joint below the home button. The blade went in easy then lightly pried the screen up then followed up the rest of the way with the ifixit opening tool. I’m sure the ifixit Jimmy tool would work as well, instead of the utility knife.

    Scott Nacke - Contestar

    I wish I’d looked at the comments here before I tore the home button cable. I was trying to be careful and not to rip it but it just got away from me. Now I’ve ordered the replacement part…

    Graham Agnew - Contestar

    The glass of my screen went off at first and there was also a black plastic frame that I managed to peel off as well.

    At first I didn’t notice that the metal bracket didn’t come off. It was a bit of a struggle to lift the metal bracket.

    Wolfgang Bauer - Contestar

    Wish I’d read through these first.

    Used the suction cup but went too far when the display finally popped loose pulling the home button cable off the main board. Hope it was only the cable that was damaged - will try a replacement home button.

    Limiting the display’s travel with tape or a zip tie is an excellent idea !!!

    Leonard - Contestar

    I used the suction cup, but used a long screwdriver through the pull-ring help up with books either side piled to just lift the phone of the worksurface when I started to apple downward force on the phone. Meant that I could be more confident applying force as, if it did go suddenly, the phone would only travel the distance down to the surface. Had to add a few books as I hadn’t allowed for them compressing as I applied force.

    Peter Whitworth - Contestar

    We used the little suction cup the Ifixit supplies in the repair kit, NOT the iSclack. It took many attempts, patience, and two people working together, but ultimately we succeeded. Here are a few tips: soak the suction cup in very hot (just boiled) water for 5-10 minutes to get it really warm and pliable. As one person holds the phone and pulls up on the suction cup, the other should work the blue opening tool at the first sign of the display assembly starting to lift from the phone. Many times the suction cup would pop off but we kept heating the cup, resticking, and working it until we finally opened it. We used the cable tie suggestion above as well to be sure the phone would not open too far and this saved us when it finally popped free. Remember to work the clips on the side as well once you have a gap. Honestly, this took the most patience of all 62 steps! (Yes, there are 62 steps…only 54 more to go!)

    James M. Day - Contestar

    I could not exert enough force using the suction cup that came with iFixit battery replacement kit

    to pull the bottom of the screen away from the case. However, an X-acto knife inserted between the

    screen and the bottom edge of the case near the left corner allowed me to lift the screen sufficie

    ntly to insert a stiffer blade (a tiny screwdriver). Lifting further with the stiffer blade I was

    able to complete the separation by sliding the edge of a credit card along the bottom and sides of

    the screen. A plectrum would have worked as well. Using a knife blade eliminates the risk of dama

    ging the home-button cable.

    JPF - Contestar

    They really should include tips like a zip tie to prevent over opening and tearing the home button cable. Now I need to replace my home button.

    Lisa Jakubowsk - Contestar

    • Intenta no soltar la pantalla de golpe, ya que hay varios cables que conectan la pantalla al chasis.

    • Presiona el saliente de plástico de la ventosa para soltarla.

    • Suelta la ventosa de la pantalla.

    Cracked my screen using the supplied suction cup. Had to apply clear packing tape to screen to very patiently finish the job. However, now I need a new screen. How nice :-(

    Scott Stathis - Contestar

    I added a double face tape in the suction cup to make it work, and then, I did not try to remove it until I had unplugged the screen. It was inconvenient not being able to work with the screen in a horizontal position when removing the ‘home button’ but it wasn’t also the end of the world.

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    • Abre el telefono lo suficiente para revelar el soporte de metal cubriendo el cable de boton de inicio.

    • No abras el telefono demasiado o arriesgas dañar el cable de boton de inicio, o el enchufe al cual se conecta. Manten el cable flojo—si es estirado tenso, es demasiado.

      • Solo el ensamblaje original de boton de inicio del telefono sera capaz de utilizar la funcionalidad de Touch ID. Si rompes el cable, instalando un nuevo boton de inicio solo restaurara la funciones ordinarias de boton de inicio, no las funciones de Touch ID.

    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para empujar y liberar el soporte y quita lo con un par de pinzas.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, asegúrate de orientar el soporte para que el lado con el punto mire hacia el inferior del teléfono y el lado con las dos rajas mire hacia la batería.

    I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

    Nikunj - Contestar

    Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

    John Doe - Contestar

    mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

    Donna Godfrey -

    It's there to keep it firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    My bracket popped out when I opened the screen too far, so if you can’t see the bracket, look around inside your phone. it might be hiding out.

    lucy -

    Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

    Gabe - Contestar

    I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.

    Harry

    Harry Jones - Contestar

    Genius. Pure genius.

    Aiden Baker -

    I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

    andy - Contestar

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - Contestar

    You say you have to use the original home button. But what is the button "bound" to? The motherboard?

    Iver søbakk - Contestar

    Yep. Bound to the phone CPU.

    Michael Walker -

    When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

    Zac Imboden - Contestar

    I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

    Kris704 - Contestar

    I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

    When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

    Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

    Completely bummed at this point….

    Alun Williams - Contestar

    Sounds like you’ve got an iPhone 5. This guide is for the 5s. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Be forewarned: make sure you really really want that new battery or display replacement, because you are VERY likely to lose your Touch ID feature on your phone after taking this step. It is extremely sensitive. The front of the bracket is the point of tension that holds it in place. In my case, as I carefully used the spudger to release the bracket, the released tension shot the bracket out of the phone and the Touch ID cable popped out of its socket with it. This gave me a start but I inspected both parts and they appeared to be fine. I finished the battery replacement, and put the cable back in place only to discover: no Touch ID. Even after I re-opened the phone two more times and finally figured out how to properly reseat the bracket, Touch ID was gone. Judging by this experience the Touch ID cable/pins must be insanely sensitive – perhaps one pin was dislodged by a fraction of a millimeter? I can’t say for sure. But sadly after repeated and careful attempts to reseat it, my Touch ID is lost for good. :(

    N B - Contestar

    Same here. I thought I was being very careful but ended up damaging something even though everything looked fine. No more TouchID for this old iPhone 5S…

    Michael Walker -

    There’s an easy solution to this step: use hemostats (miniature vice grip). Took me about 10 seconds (after over an hour using various other tools).

    Robert Smith - Contestar

    Attention in this part!! I had to put more pressure than I should, then the bracket flew away and the cable also unplugged all together (probably placed the spudger beneath the cable instead of only beneath the bracket). I was lucky nothing bad happened, but I lost total control in this step (it was my only mistake).

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    Tape the screen to the case on the sides with some slack to keep the screen from opening too far.

    Nace - Contestar

    Just wedge the sharp end of the forceps between the bracket and the plug and push until the bracket pops open. That way there is no danger of tearing out the entire socket.

    Imre Treufeld - Contestar

    One way to easily access the bracket (for removal and for insertion) is to rotate the display around the cable connection horizontally, so that the screen is not above the bracket but rather to the side.

    When disassembling, note that the screen assembly is hinged to the bottom on the edge away from the home button. After first opening the screen to about 30 degrees as above, slide the screen in the direction where the home button was to disengage this hinge (this is the first bullet item in step 13 below). Then rotate to expose the bracket to eyes and tweezers.

    Yishai Sered - Contestar

    This metal bracket snaps over the plug, and there appears to be a snap detent on the front of the bracket (side facing the charging port). The first photo for this step show the spudger on the side closest to the battery (above the holes in the bracket). I would recommend pulling up on the side closest to the charging port. Also, as others mentioned, when this releases it will go flying - mine did too.

    Take note of how it’s oriented before you pop it loose - it only goes on one way (can’t be rotated 180 degrees)

    When re-installing the bracket later, I inserted the side closet to the battery first (like the 2nd photo in Step 10 below), then rotated it down (pressing it down). It snaps back in place

    spyder13b - Contestar

    • Durante el reensamblaje, necesitaras reinstalar el soporte del cable de Touch ID. La parte superior del soporte necesita ser deslizada entre la bateria y el conector de cable de Touch ID, en frente de la pestaña de metal, y la parte delantera debe de cerrar sobre el conector.

    • Desliza la parte superior del soporte sobre el conector de cable de Touch ID de la izquierda a la derecha.

    This is the hardest part lol

    Bob smith - Contestar

    I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

    FierDancr -

    1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

    2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

    3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    That was fun without tweezers :)

    Oscar - Contestar

    Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

    natzulf -

    It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

    copeconsultancy - Contestar

    I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

    Brent Hillyer - Contestar

    After reading the comments I was not looking forward to this step on re-assembly. I agree that the pictures and the instruction to “slide” the bracket into place may be worrisome. But I was able to orient the bracket directly over where it was supposed to go. Then inserted the 2 clips (top) in first and easily and gently snapped the bottom clip into place. Probably spent less than a minute on this part.

    Jere -

    After about 20 minutes I wonder if I could just snap it in place. I did it in about 15 seconds.

    The “slide part and accompanying images are really misleading.

    jpfranc -

    It took me 10 minutes to accomplish this step; 9’:55’’ I spent reading the comments and 0:05’’ plugging the bracket the way you describe. This step step should be edited in this guide. It is definitely misleading people.

    Andre Silva -

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - Contestar

    Not everyone should ditch the bracket just because you did. The bracket is there to keep everything firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

    Bill Pennock -

    I'm not so patient, so I finally gave up and ditched the bracket. No problem so far. Anyway, ditch it at your own risk!

    Daniel del Saz -

    On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

    Jeff Clayton - Contestar

    All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

    Kim Mace - Contestar

    I should NOT have had that cup of coffee before I attempted this!

    Cory Powell - Contestar

    This was definitely the fiddliest bit of the whole reassembly.

    After trying the slide in and then press method many times without success I ended up feeding it in directly with the tweezers, carefully angling it back up into position, then clipping it down. But the whole thing took at least 5 minutes. And my shaky hands didn’t help matters!

    Toby Moncaster - Contestar

    I was sweting gallons during this step!

    Timothy Owens - Contestar

    The replacement of the bracket was tricky. The bracket has to be put in under the two tiny tabs in the back (next to the battery) and then pushing down in the front. I knew I had it when I heard a little click from the one tab in the front seating.

    Ron Wagner - Contestar

    HI Ron, you are almost right. Or at least I did clip in the front part first and then just push the back while the back side was in between the home button connector and that two pins (the bracket on the “board”). As you said it just click in and you could hear. That was after I tried put the back first and then clip the front for 15 min.

    Martin Chudomel -

    This step needs to be explained better! The metal bracket needs to be slid in front of the metal connector near the battery and then clicked down. I've been stuck on this step as I kept trying to slide it between the metal connector and battery!!

    Whitney Hourigan - Contestar

    Updated the text a bit, while correct, it didn’t mention the metal tab in relation to the battery and cable connector. Hope this helps the next person!

    Sam Lionheart -

    And for this step felt like a life long career of tiddly winks had commenced

    Jake Baxter - Contestar

    It is confusing in reassembly, that the steps 10 and 11 are in the ascending order, because we follow the guide backwards (I suggest explaining the correct sequence: …, 12, 10, 11, and ??. ?? —> This is another point of confusion, the next step is to fit the screen back in, but because there are many (alternative) steps to open the phone, all the useful comments about closing it are spread among topics 3 to 9. There should have been a box (step) exclusively to the part of fitting the screen , so the explanation is more clear and comments are put all together. There are extremely useful comments here that should be edited in the guide (to make it even better).

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    I am having trouble connecting the home button connector to the phone cpu? Not sure why it's not staying connected but was wondering it there was any advice. I've tried for about 20 minutes just trying to line it up and press it down but no luck…

    Trayvon Banks - Contestar

    3 times I’ve had to repair my 5S & this was the most frustrating part each time. This time I cheated & just placed the cover back on top of the cable & closed the phone up. No clicking or sliding or fumbling with it. Look at it from the left side & it’s a bit easier to see where it winds up, but I didn’t fuss with it. Phone works fine now anyway.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    • Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger para levantar la parte delantera del soporte del cable de Touch ID sobre el conector del cable.

    • Si el soporte no esta alineado cuando al cerrar, necesitaras quitar el soporte y deslizarlo sobre el conector de cable otra vez para un encaje mejor.

    It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Contestar

    See the information line on Step 9 that says this exact thing?

    Elliot Fleming - Contestar

    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el conector de cable del boton de inicio.

    • Asegúrate de que estés separando el conector de cable de su enchufe y no estés haciendo palanca al enchufe. El enchufe esta en su propio cable que esta pegado y puede ser desconectado si no tienes cuidado.

    Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

    Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

    Keystone - Contestar

    Reassembly:

    The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

    That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

    The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    Also worth mentioning is that upon reassembly, make sure that the home button cable folds to the left (away from the side with the SIM card) as the front panel will not fit properly otherwise.

    Brian Riess - Contestar

    这个地方必须小心,我上次就把底部接口搞坏了,害我换个电池的同时还换了一个尾插

    Zhou Lin - Contestar

    • Una vez que el conector del botón home ha sido desconectado, tira de la pantalla con el cable del botón home fuera del chasis utilizando la parte superior del telefono como una bisagra.

    • Abre la pantalla en un angulo de 90º y asegúrala contra algo para mantenerla apoyada mientras trabajas en el telefono.

      • Agrega una bandita elastica para mantener la pantalla asegurada en su lugar mientras trabajas. Esto previene tension excesiva en los cables de pantalla.

      • Si no hay mas remedio, puedes utilizar una bebida enlatada sellada para detener la pantalla.

    maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

    Joop Roos - Contestar

    Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

    Kelly Ann - Contestar

    • Quita los tornillos Phillips #000 de 1.6 mm del conector metalico de la bateria a la placa logica.

    I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

    Luke Lin - Contestar

    See Jonathan Goldsmith's comment ;)

    Didier Daniel -

    Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

    Peter Pan - Contestar

    Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Contestar

    Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Contestar

    Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Contestar

    Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

    Vitaly Kirichenko - Contestar

    I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

    Bruce Peffley -

    Same problem here

    Mikkel Albrechtsen -

    The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

    Tom Gleason - Contestar

    The ifixit #000 works…if you put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the driver. Yikes. Use a larger bit if you’ve got it.

    Chris Wiley - Contestar

    i damaged the bottom screw with the phillips00 ifixit screwdriver :-(

    Pierre - Contestar

    • Saca el soporte del conector metálico de la batería fuera del iPhone.

    Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

    Daniel Goldschmidt - Contestar

    Using the iFixit tweezers to remove the bracket caused a spark. I used the plastic spudger instead.

    Bryan Remely - Contestar

    Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

    Someone Somewhere - Contestar

    After installing the New iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement I noticed there was no foam on top of the new plug, leaving bare metal exposed. I cut a small piece of electricians tape to be placed on top of the new plug to keep it from coming in contact with the metal battery connector bracket

    Scott Nacke - Contestar

    • Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger para cuidadosamente hacer palanca a el conector de batería hacia fuera de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Ten mucho cuidado de solo hacer palanca contra el conector de bateria y no en el enchufe en la placa logica. Si haces palanca contra en enchufe en la placa lógica o contra la placa lógica sí mismo, puedes dañar el conector o los componentes cercanos de forma permanente.

    pourquoi faire?

    Alexis Camper - Contestar

    Skip steps17-22. Just be extra careful and secure the screen. Less to go wrong the less you open.

    William Stein - Contestar

    Also order the headband magnifier. It really helps with the tiny components you are working with.

    William Stein - Contestar

    A way to skip step 17-22

    I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

    Rolf Enderes - Contestar

    I also skipped the step of removing the dispaly, instead using a rubber band to secure the display to the iPhone box. Worked great, and avoided the hassle of disconnecting the display.

    Daniel Melchior - Contestar

    I skipped this step and I also removed my display. I don’t know what will happen in the future but there’s no problems till now...

    Ran Mika (Tshukimi Elune) - Contestar

    I didn’t realize that each of the photos contained different steps until later on, (the photos look very similar to each other in the thumbnails), and so I don’t think I removed the 2nd part of the battery attachment as its in the 2nd photo. I figured it out later, but only after step 20, which requires that the battery is fully disconnected before doing. Oops!

    Everything else went well though, and I’ve since reinstalled the battery, drained it, and recharged, and it seems to be fine. Will cross my fingers and hope I didn’t damage anything.

    Nancy Zan - Contestar

    If you do remove the display, it is helpful before removing the four diffferently sized screws to tape down a piece of masking tape, sticky side up, and remove them in a defined order, sticking them to the tape as you go. Then there’s no chance of mixing them up when you re-assemble.

    john lawn - Contestar

    • Quita los siguientes tornillos que aseguran el soporte de los conectores del panel frontal a la placa lógica:

      • Un tornillo Phillips #000 de 1.7 mm

      • Un tornillo Phillips #000 de 1.2 mm

      • Un tornillo Phillips #000 de 1.3 mm

      • Un tornillo Phillips #000 mas de 1.7 mm

        • Este tornillo de 1.7 mm suele no ser atraído por un destornillador magnetizado. Ten cuidado de no perderlo cuando lo quites.

      • Es especialmente importante de mantener un registro de tus tornillos en este paso para el reensamblaje. El uso accidental de un tornillo de 1.3 mm o uno de 1.77 mm en el agujero inferior derecho puede provocar daños en la placa lógica causando que el teléfono no inicie correctamente.

        • Ten cuidado de no apretar demasiado los tornillos y de no forzarlos. Si no caben fácilmente cuando los estas apretando, pueden que no sea del tamaño correcto.

    Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

    CLAUDE - Contestar

    Hi Claude,

    Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

    So, I was wondering:

    1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

    2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

    3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

    Thanks in advance.

    Regards,

    Cornel.

    corneliumusat -

    Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

    Ariel Drotter -

    Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

    Ariel Drotter -

    @Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

    iGuys -

    Hi Everyone,

    Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

    The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

    Hope this helps.

    Regards,

    Cornel.

    corneliumusat - Contestar

    The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

    RayBob - Contestar

    Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

    W Fleming -

    i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

    William Boggs - Contestar

    The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

    If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

    Please change all the versions including this step.

    Louis Torres - Contestar

    I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

    lambdahindiii - Contestar

    I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

    I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

    wmlee1 -

    I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

    Some things to look out for:

    - Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

    - The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

    - To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

    Take your time and good luck all

    wilten -

    I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

    Matt Reier -

    On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

    I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

    woods81 - Contestar

    You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

    BJS -

    You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

    Drtofu -

    Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

    Jack -

    I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

    shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

    what is the correct way?

    alexaamo91 - Contestar

    i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

    Apple logo then blue screen

    kgale4 -

    I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

    Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

    fredhdx - Contestar

    The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

    mnoivad - Contestar

    Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

    Pete H - Contestar

    I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

    Daylen - Contestar

    Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

    bartonh - Contestar

    That is exactly how I did it; good hint. Thanks.

    Andre Silva -

    So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

    larserikkolden - Contestar

    If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

    Mehmet Hakan - Contestar

    I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

    Any suggestion?

    denis.g.94 - Contestar

    Hi Denis, could you be a bit more specific as to which metal bracket you are referring to please? also, where did you put the piece of plastic? Thank you.

    jamesmclachlan -

    Denis, could you be more specific please? Which metal bracket causes the problem and where did you put the piece of plastic?

    I have the same problem, (lost touch screen function).

    jamesmclachlan -

    Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

    James Lee - Contestar

    After aligning the bracket over the screw holes, I used the tweezers to pick the screw on its head and position it in the hole. Then, it was not difficult to use the screwdriver to fasten it.

    Andre Silva -

    If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

    Colm Noone - Contestar

    Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

    Sandy Trevor - Contestar

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

    yaterbob - Contestar

    The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

    Richard - Contestar

    Color coding the screw heads is an excellent idea. I used red for red - green for green - and black for orange - left the yellow one uncolored. Did a screen capture and labeled it to avoid confusion.

    Leonard - Contestar

    Also color a small area around the screws on the cable bracket. Makes it real easy to see which screw goes where.

    Leonard -

    I found out that you don’t need the 1.7mm screw. The shorter one will do and I don’t lose bluetooth.

    patjmccarthy - Contestar

    I used colored sharpies to keep track of the screws. I color coded the screw heads and around their holes. Worked like a charm.

    Brigham Okano - Contestar

    I managed to loose the socket of the green screw. Apparently, during my second disassembly of my iPhone the socket (which appears to be screwed in as well) came loose without me noticiing it and promptly vanished later on in the process, never to be seen again. The iPhone does seem to work without it, but still, I’d advise checking that they are still in place when you unmount the metal shield.

    Sven Siggelkow - Contestar

    Erroneamente ho sbagliato la combinazione delle viti e mi si è danneggiata l’iPhone.. che parte devo cambiare ?

    garino1990 - Contestar

    You do not actually have to remove the screen to replace the battery. Just tilt up the screen at a 60 degree angle from the phone and tape it open or have someone hold it up. That way you don’t have to flex the screen wires or inadvertently damage anything.

    Imre Treufeld - Contestar

    I also completed this repair successfully without removing the screen. I kept the screen at a 90 degree angle using the iPhone’s box and a rubber band as pictured in Step 13. I was nervous about bumping it while doing the rest of the steps and stretching the display cables too much, but it worked.

    garygrossman - Contestar

    • Saca el soporte de los conectores del panel frontal fuera de la placa lógica.

    At my iPhone 5s this part is missing!

    Michael Schöttner - Contestar

    • Usa un spudger o una uña para desconectar la cámara frontal y el cable del sensor.

    The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

    Magnus Dalen - Contestar

    I did not try the spudger (but I think I should have), because this cable was the most difficult to me. It kept flipping (not aligning with the socket) and with one hand holding the screen and the other trying to connect was very difficult .

    Andre Silva -

    • Mientras sostienes el panel frontal, desconecta el conector del cable del LCD.

    • Cuando vuelvas a armar tu teléfono, el cable LCD puede salirse del conector. Esto puede ocasionar líneas blancas o una pantalla en blanco al volver a encender su teléfono. Si eso sucede, simplemente vuelve a conectar el cable y enciende tu teléfono. La mejor forma de encender y apagar su teléfono es desconectar y volver a conectar la batería.

    When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Contestar

    After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

    Jules JUSTE - Contestar

    And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

    Jules JUSTE - Contestar

    Because Apple wants you to just buy a new phone instead of replacing parts.

    Bryan Remely -

    No doubt about that.

    Bryan Thompson - Contestar

    What can I do

    i tried to remove the LCD CABLE WITH A METAL SCISSOR.

    NOW IT IS NOT WORKING.

    HOW TO REPLACE IT. CAN ANYONE HELP IN THAT

    Faheem Sameer - Contestar

    At the bottom and top are some hardly noticeable white stripes and an after reconnecting the cables 3 times with no difference I connected the old screen again. There were no stripes there… The cables on the new screen don’t look damaged. I’ve repaired other phone screens and I think my display has an issue… what should I do now?

    fele felix - Contestar

    So what happens if you don’t disconnect the battery before dis/reconnecting the LCD connector? Can you damage something irreversibly? I have what looks like a bad display ertifacts, lines, overall bustedness…) and am not sure if because I didn’t disconnect the battery…. I was following the lady in the video instead of the guide like an idiot…. She didn’t disconnect the battery. :P

    Tom - Contestar

    What’s the problem with my phone? It shows the Apple Logo but it shows a black screen after. What happened?

    Marcus Liu - Contestar

  3. Reparte el espíritu de reparación esta Navidad
    Obtén $12 de descuento en tu compra de $50 o más con el código FIXMAS12
    Reparte el espíritu de reparación esta Navidad
    Obtén $12 de descuento en tu compra de $50 o más con el código FIXMAS12
    • Finalmente, desconecta el conector de cable del digitalizador.

    When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

    Pete H - Contestar

    I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

    ilsedorec - Contestar

    pure genius, this works

    Oliver Markl -

    Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

    hermosillaignacio - Contestar

    It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

    The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

    This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

    Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

    This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

    In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

    Mikereilly2009 - Contestar

    Using the tool from the opposite side from what is shown here was many times easier (considering I had the front panel attach to a box with the rubber band trick)

    David - Contestar

    Agree, did the same thing.

    Andre Silva -

    After completing the battery replacement, when I turned the phone back on everything worked right except, the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen. Does anyone know how I can fix this???

    Melissa - Contestar

    After I replaced my battery, I turned the phone back on and everything worked except the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen now. Does anyone know what I did wrong??? I do I fix this???

    Melissa - Contestar

    after battery replacing the Volume and Sleep buttons don’t work anymore. What I did wrong and what I can do to resolve the problem?

    Thanks

    Nicola - Contestar

    Step one is recheck your connections. If those are all solid, did you need to pry the battery up to remove it? It’s possible that the prying damaged the cables. If you have photos, share them on our Answers Forum, and you might get some better, more specific help!

    Sam Lionheart -

    • Quita el ensamblaje del panel frontal fuera de la caja trasera.

    I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

    I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

    For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

    As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

    IMG LINK:

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

    Oscar Vera - Contestar

    Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

    Bob smith -

    Dear Oscar,

    I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

    Thank you very much,

    Alex

    Alex -

    The link to your photo is still not available. I do not understand which screw is being referred to associated with the fingerprint sensor.

    Toby Parnell -

    To anybody wondering what the picture was, Internet Archive saved it. You can find it here: https://web.archive.org/web/201606120038...

    It’s also the same picture as the 2nd picture in Step 23.

    Bryan Remely -

    Bryan Remely thank you so much. It’s comment threads like this and contributors like you that make the internet such a valuable tool.

    WILL D -

    why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

    Cameron Shelley - Contestar

    When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Contestar

    thanks for that... I didn't even notice it until I saw your comment.

    Brian Hayes -

    I’m completely confused about removing the connectors to the screen. It looks to me as though the battery could come out with the screen still attached. How am I wrong?

    Lance - Contestar

    • Inserta una herramienta de expulsión de tarjeta SIM o clip para papel en la pequeña ranura en la bandeja de tarjeta SIM.

    • Presiona para expulsar la bandeja. Esto requiere una cantidad significativa de fuerza.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Remueve el ensamblaje de bandeja de tarjeta SIM del iPhone.

    • Al volver a insertar la tarjeta SIM, asegúrate de que este en la orientación correcta en relación con la bandeja.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Usa un spudger para levantar el cable del ensamblaje del botón de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Ten cuidado de solo hacer palanca en el conector y no en el zócalo en la placa lógica. Si haces palanca en el zócalo en la placa lógica, podrías romper el conector entero.

    What is this connector for?

    istylefix - Contestar

    After assembly back that connector won't stick to logic board. it's not broken and on logic board nothing damaged but that connector won't stick back. And beacause of that my power button doesn't work.

    Sergey Ivanov - Contestar

    This is the only connector I have struggled with, as it doesn't snap down that easily. Does anyone else have tips for an easier time reconnecting this connector? Thanks, it doesn't really want to snap back down.

    TheChicken - Contestar

    when having a hard time putting the button assembly cable back on, check to make sure the prongs on wither socket are not bent. i had 3 bent, prayed them up gently, and made them as straight in line as possible and reattached the cable to the socket. take extra care with this cable and socket as it is difficult to get back on and doesn't snap in like the others.

    williamsmr84 - Contestar

    ALTERNATIVE:

    As long as you're careful about removing the speaker so you don't damage the small plastic pegs on the top & left sides, you can skip Step 25 - 34 and save a lot of time.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    I'd agree with this. At I'd least give it a try.

    I didn't see this suggestion until after I had problems reattaching the back-facing camera and display assembly to the logic board. Actually damaged the camera connection and had to remove it so the display assembly connections were good.

    Bruce Peffley -

    As I look back over all the comments, I'd try skipping steps 17-25 and 28-34. They don't look to be necessary to replace the Lightning connector and just make for more potential problems reconnecting everthing

    Bruce Peffley -

    This picture is also wrong, it is from a iPhone 5S, not from iPhone SE (have a look on the serialnumber) and the area by the powerbutton

    holgerklingelhoefer - Contestar

    You would be surprised how much force is needed to put this cable back in. Just push a little more firm and it should click in. I played with this for 30 minutes LOL ( BUT CHECK THE CONNECTORS ARENT BENT BEFORE APPLYING MORE PRESSURE! )

    Dylan Collins - Contestar

    • Usa un spudger para levantar el cable del conector Lightning de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Dobla el cable del conector Lightning para alejarlo de la placa lógica.

    Connector ist auf Logic Board festgeklebt, sorgfältig Kleber lösen

    Fabian Kunz - Contestar

    • Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el cable de antena de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    Beim Zusammenbau muss man darauf achten, dass der goldene Kontakt des Antennenkabels NICHT die 2,8 mm Abstandsschraube (aus Schritt 27) berührt.

    During reassembly you have to ensure that the golden antenna connector does not touch the 2.8 mm standoff screw (from Step 27).

    johannesbrand - Contestar

    Reassembly: The left edge of the speaker has a thumbnail-width groove into which you can seat the antenna to ensure it's out of the way. You can use your thumbnail in this groove to slide the antenna wire back & forth until it's in the proper position to snap it onto the connector. Trying to reattach it connector-first was frustrating as the part is very small & difficult to maneuver that way.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    Found it VERY difficult to reattach the antenna cable!!

    William - Contestar

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el cable de la cámara trasera de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    This is a picture from a iPhone 5S, not from iPhone SE. There are little different pieces near the powerbutton

    holgerklingelhoefer - Contestar

    • Remueve cualquier cinta que cubra el soporte de flash de la cámara.

    This picture is also wrong, it is from a iPhoen 5S, not from iPhone SE

    holgerklingelhoefer - Contestar

    The same photos are used for many repairs for both phones. The procedures should be identical, despite a few minor visual differences.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos de la placa lógica:

      • Un tornillo Phillips #000 de 2.4 mm.

        • Este tornillo también sujeta un contacto de metal pequeño por debajo de la placa lógica. Se mantiene es su lugar por debajo del soporte plástico, pero si ves que se está saliendo, fíjate en este paso para removerlo.

      • Dos tornillos Phillips #000 de 2.3 mm

      • Cuatro tornillos separadores de 2.8 mm

    Pl note > Under the main board at (Red) 2.4 mm Phillips #000 screw, there is a small spacer plate with hole. It is at the bottom, below the main board and not visible when removing the main board. Remember to place it back before fitting the main board when reassembling.

    Bobby Patel - Contestar

    Bobby can you post the exact orientation of the ground part, thanks

    hrn1203 -

    Thanks Bobby patel

    Alma - Contestar

    Hi hrn1203, the orientation of the small spacer plate goes like this.... Align the longest edge of the spacer to the top edge of the housing, note also there are 3 pressed dots, these must face downwards against the bottom housing. Bobby's location of the spacer is 100% correct. This is an important part and so this guide should be updated to reflect this spacer. Hope this helps :-)

    Paul - Contestar

    One of the standoffs are not magnetic. I'm not sure which one, I assume it's the one on the top.

    Josh Ginsberg - Contestar

    As Josh mentioned, one of the 2.8 mm standoff screws is non-magnetic. It's one of the top two (i.e. two nearest the power switch). Can anyone confirm which one?

    kjmorley - Contestar

    The standoff in the upper left of the picture is not magnetic on the phone I repaired, so I used my tweezers to place it. It said in Step #7 that that screw was not magnetic. On my phone it was. So, either I have different parts or the magnetism note was accidentally swapped.

    mnoivad - Contestar

    i nid a help.. may i knw wat does the zone near the red circle works?is it for sim network?

    arjun22monster - Contestar

    The stand off screw at top left (as per the above picture) is also very slightly longer than the other 3 stand off screws.

    steve keeler - Contestar

    The non-magnetic standoff receives the non-magnetic phillips screw that holds the display plate. Those fasteners are non-magnetic because they're located near components related to telephony. I've seen reports that using ferromagnetic fasteners at this location can cause interference with the cell radio, but I've yet to personally confirm that. I try to use only non-magnetic fasteners at these points just to be on the safe side.

    E West - Contestar

    • Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico para levantar la placa lógica lo suficiente como para tomarla con tus dedos.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Aleja la placa lógica ligeramente de la cámara trasera.

    • No intentes remover la placa lógica todavía ya que está aun conectada por un cable de antena en la parte trasera.

    • Voltea la placa lógica hacia la batería como si estuvieras volteando la página de un libro.

    During reassembly, make sure you flip the small ribbon cable up (near top grouping of 5 sockets) so it isn't trapped under the logic board. It's easy to focus on slipping the logic board in and the ribbon cable stays under the logic board, and then you have to remove all the screws again :-/

    VWrider - Contestar

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el cable de antena en la parte trasera de la placa lógica.

    • Remueve la placa lógica del iPhone.

    Do i need a carrier specific logic/mother board? I have a verizon model

    carlo piccolo - Contestar

    Hi I would like to know one small iron plate with hole where it will be placed, I cannot fix it, I do not remember where I oppend it ? can you help me please ?

    I do not know how to fix it again kindly help me please ?

    skhalid2004 - Contestar

    Dove posso acquistarla che sia compatibile ?

    garino1990 - Contestar

    • En este momento, una pequeña placa de metal cerca de la cámara trasera está suelta y podría salir de su recoveco.

    • Debido a que es muy pequeña y fácil de perder, es mejor remover esta placa y dejarla a un lado mientras continúas trabajando en tu teléfono.

    • Usa una pinza para remover la placa desde abajo del soporte hacia la izquierda de la cámara trasera.

    • Cuando vuelvas a ensamblar, orienta la placa con la lengüeta pequeña a la derecha del borde plano más largo contra la parte superior del teléfono.

    The small metal plate step 31. If I remember correctly this loose metal plate lies below the logic board, another word logic board lies on top this loose metal plate, then there goes the bracket with a screw on top to hold both down. What is this loose metal plate for? What happen if I place the loose metal plate on top of logic board? Does it affect the rear mic, speaker and headphone jack? Thank you for yr times. N.

    eat646 - Contestar

    FYI - If you forget to replace the little plate, your Lock button won't work. At least that was my experience.

    easleyjs -

    I would call that a grounding plate as it looks like it provides grounding for the power button assembly to the board. Without ground the power button would not be able to send current pulses when you short the power button by pushing it from the power button itself > power button cable to logic board.

    Not sure why they did this because they could of just provided ground on the cable itself. That's my understanding because that put should not of been designed like that.

    Ben -

    This picture is also wrong, it is from a iPhone 5S, not from iPhone SE. There is a little different between 5S and SE in the near of the Powerbutton.

    holgerklingelhoefer - Contestar

    Can anyone post the correct picture or explain the correct position of the metal plate?

    Andreas Spannagel -

    Current title of this repair thread is iPhone 5S. Is title incorrect?

    zb7jpc -

    These same steps/images are used in iFixit guides for both the 5s and SE because the two designs are very nearly identical. But there shouldn’t be any difference that’s relevant to the instruction given here. That is, the plate and its position should be exactly the same regardless of which phone you are working on. (But if we got that wrong, please let us know.) If you’re sharp enough to spot a subtle visual difference in some other unrelated component in the background, give yourself a smile and a wink for being clever and then carry on with your repair ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thanks a lot for this one !

    Guillaume Blas - Contestar

    hi every body i want help my i phone 5s it also restart usually and i trying sofwear or very thing and it do it agine and agine

    secound problem my two camera front and back not working and a i replacment as not working

    Tefa osman - Contestar

    Hi, as this metal plate is under the logical GPS part , i think it is a connector between the GPS and the main body (as the GPS antenna), so if this piece get lost, the GPS signal will be Weak or inactive.

    mozafar - Contestar

    • Con unas pinzas, voltea la tapa de goma de la cámara y sácala de su clip hacia la parte externa de la caja trasera.

    • No intentes remover completamente esta tapa. Está sujeta a la caja trasera y necesita solo abrirse de un tirón no removerse.

    Que se passe t’il si le cache est complètement enlevée ?

    Ali Oukhrid - Contestar

    S'il est déchiré, vous pourriez éventuellement essayer de le recoller avec un ruban adhésif une fois que vous avez sorti la caméra et si vous arrivez à attraper le morceau. Mais ceci nécessite beaucoup de doigté. Si vous n’y arrivez pas, vous pourrez juste le remettre par dessus pour qu’il ramène au moins un peu de stabilité à la caméra.

    Sandra Hiller -

    • Remueve la cámara trasera de la caja trasera.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, el cable de la cámara debe doblarse en forma de U para colocarlo detrás de la placa lógica.

    • Si el protector de goma de la cámara ha cambiado, asegúrate de reemplazarlo antes de volver a montar tu iPhone.

    Can i juste skipped to this part before the sim tray part and all that ? Because there is dust on it i just want to wipe the dust and put all the pieces back together ?

    P.S: how can i know if somebody answer me ?

    rabekevin - Contestar

    • Remueve los dos tornillos de 1.6 mm #000 que sujetan el soporte de cámara trasera.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Remueve el soporte de cámara trasera de la caja trasera.

    It was not noted in this guide but be sure to place the tab on the LEFT UNDER when replacing the rear-facing camera bracket

    DAXimus - Contestar

    • Remueve el protector de cámara de goma de la caja.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Inserta la punta de un spudger en el orificio en la lengüeta adhesiva de la batería cerca de la toma de auriculares.

    • Levanta la lengüeta y usa el spudger para desplegar la lengüea de su zócalo.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Tira de la lengüeta adhesiva de la batería del teléfono.

    • Corta la lengüeta negra de la batería entre las dos tiras blancas adhesiva separándolas.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Trata de mantener las tiras planas y sin arrugas durante este procedimiento; las tiras arrugadas se pegarán y se romperán en lugar de sacarlas limpiamente.

    • Tira lentamente de una de las tiras adhesivas de la batería alejándola de la batería, hacia la parte inferior del iPhone.

    • Tira de manera constante, manteniendo una tensión constante en la tira a medida que se desliza hacia afuera entre la batería y la carcasa trasera. Para obtener mejores resultados, tira de la tira en un ángulo de 60º o menos.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Guía la tira con cuidado alrededor de la esquina y suba por el lado de la batería.

      • Ten cuidado de no engancharlo en la esquina de la batería o en cualquiera de los otros componentes internos del iPhone.

    • La tira se estirará muchas veces su longitud original. Continúa tirando, volviendo a agarrar la tira cerca de la batería si es necesario, hasta que toda la tira quede libre.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Repite para remover la segunda tira adhesiva.

    • Si has removido ambas tiras exitosamente, omite los siguientes dos pasos.

    • Si alguna de las tiras adhesivas se rompe debajo de la batería y no puede recuperarse, intenta retirar la tira restante y luego continúa con el siguiente paso.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Si alguna de las tiras adhesivas se rompe y la batería permanece pegada a la caja trasera, prepara un iOpener o usa un secador de pelo para calentar la caja trasera directamente detrás de la batería.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Voltea el iPhone e inserta una tarjeta de plástico entre el lado de la caja de la batería y la caja traje.

    • Tea cuidado de mantener la tarjeta lo más plana posible para evitar doblar la batería, ya que podría dañarla y liberar sustancias químicas peligrosas.

    • Presiona la tarjeta para romper el adhesivo detrás de la batería.

    The iphone 3 and 4 were so much easier to fix! :)

    gibitzga - Contestar

    • Remueve la batería de la caja trasera.

    • Al volver a instalar la batería, consulta esta guía para reemplazar la tiras adhesivas de la batería.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos Phillips #00 del soporte del vibrador:

      • Un tornillo de 1.7 mm

      • Un tornillo de 2.5 mm

    Agregar Comentario

    • Con un juego de pinzas, remueve el soporte del vibrador.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Remueve el tornillo Phillips #000 del 1.7 mm que sujeta el vibrador de la caja trasera.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Usa unas pinzas para remover el vibrador de la caja trasera.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retira el tornillo Phillips # 000 de 1.3 mm que sujeta el soporte de conexión a tierra de la placa lógica a la caja posterior.

    This guide isnt complete. The whole part of disassembling the vibrator, volume buttons and so on is missing. very confusing, thumbs down

    Angelo - Contestar

    The guide has been updated, thanks for helping correct this mistake!

    Sam Lionheart -

    • Retira el soporte de puesta a tierra de la placa lógica.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retira el tornillo Phillips # 000 de 2.1 mm que sujeta la pinza de contacto y el soporte del botón de encendido/apagado.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Remueve el clip de contacto del iPhone.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, asegúrate de que el soporte esté correctamente asentado entre el flash de la cámara orientada hacia atrás y el borde superior de la caja.

    Can you tell me what the contact clip is used for. I accidentally tour mine. I have both piece and was hoping to be able to pur both piece back on.

    Ronnie Landis - Contestar

    i have the same question,what the contact clip is use for ?

    Sheng Feng - Contestar

    • Desliza el extremo plano de un spudger debajo del cable del conjunto del componente superior para liberarlo de la caja posterior.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Usa la punta de un spudger para liberar la parte del micrófono del ensamblaje de la caja.

    Embaixo do microfone existe uma borracha adesiva com um furo no centro. Neste furo no centro da borracha existe uma tela para evitar a entrada de sujeiras no microfone.

    Celio Henrique O Machado - Contestar

    • Usa un juego de pinzas para sacar el soporte del botón de encendido/apagado de la caja.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Usa la punta de un spudger para presionar ligeramente el botón de encendido/apagado en el teléfono.

    • Usa un par de pinzas para remover el botón.

    • Vuelve a comprobar la orientación del botón para volver a montar. Las dos formas en "L" deben estar boca abajo y la barra de metal debe estar doblada en la parte superior del botón.

    If you are going to move metal bar from old power button to new one, make sure you put it right. It's not indifferent which way you insert it because metal bar is not symmetric. If you insert it wrong you can't push power button after assemble. Power button stuck after rear case replacement

    Asko Pesola - Contestar

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

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Sam Lionheart

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In this disassembly for the power button, did you guys figure out how to silence the button rattle that we hear when shooting video or just shaking the phone? It is believed to be coming from the power button.

Scott - Contestar

How do you re connect the new button to the Hinge part of the power button assembly?

finn - Contestar

Nice write up. Thanks!

Donovan M - Contestar

there are several screws and their size missing from this guide. the 3 on the left side once you remove the battery, the ones that hold the volume and vibrate brackets in place. what size are those? i've been working on this phone 8 hours straight and lost track of where some of the screws go and what size they should be. i was stuck with a power button that wouldnt fit properly and i was at it so long i dont know where some of the screws go. i would really like a detailed guide/chart with screw sizes on it. and using calipers, are the sizes listed referring to the length of these screws? thank you

rappleby - Contestar

Sounds like you might be looking for a different guide? Those three screws you reference are detailed here. To answer your question, yes, the measurements are the screw lengths in mm as measured with a caliper.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thanks for the guide. When replacing the power button, the old one has to be torn off it’s metal plate that now is heavily stuck to the power button bracket (the guide makes no reference to this). I have only once successfully removed this plate from the bracket after many hours of prying and heating it up. I also tried flat screw drivers, but they are still to thick. I cannot seem to get my fine tweezers in there and I am now stuck with my 2nd attempt. Any advice?! I have done 1000’s of repairs, but this one is stumping me :(

Stephen Deck - Contestar

Update: I found that bending the 2 plates back and forth finally caused them to separate. This is not ideal as I will have to make sure it is 100% straight before reassembly. I would still appreciate any better advice if out there… Thanks

Stephen Deck -

Great guide! Unfortunately, you are missing two entire assemblies that must be removed between steps 47 and 48. After the battery removal, the upper-left corner assembly (motor) must be removed with 3 different screws - the first 2 remove the grounding bracket, the last removes the motor assembly. And, you must remove 3 sets of screws holding the mute and volume button assemblies. Again, if you look closely at the photos in steps 47 and 48, the assemblies are all in place with screws and then they are all missing / removed in photo 48.

Paul Christensen - Contestar

The vibrator prereq was mysteriously missing! We added it and the power button cover replacement guide should now be complete. The volume button assemblies shouldn’t need to be removed in order to remove the button cover, if you’re looking to replace the mechanical button cable itself, you’ll want to follow our Upper Component Cable replacement guide.

Sam Lionheart -

Any chance anyone knows where I can order the spindle the power button clicks onto or if there is any way to take the existing spindle out.

I’m replacing the housing on my iPhone and the new housing has no spindle in it, I've been trying to slide the old one out with pliers but its not budging.

caseye92 - Contestar

Does anybody know if this guide will work on the iPhone SE. Thanks!

Genius Bar - Contestar

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