Introducción
Usa esta guía para reemplazar la tarjeta AirPort/Bluetooth en un iMac 21.5" Retina 4K 2017.
Algunas imágenes en esta guía pertenecen a un iMac de 2015, que tiene diferencias estéticas mínimas. Estas diferencias no afectan el procedimiento de reparación.
Qué necesitas
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Antes de comenzar el trabajo en su iMac: Desenchufe la computadora y mantenga presionado el botón de encendido durante diez segundos para vaciar los condensadores de alimentación de energía.
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Comenzando a la izquierda de la pantalla, cerca del botón de encendido, inserte la herramienta de apertura iMac en el espacio entre el panel de vidrio y la carcasa trasera.
Don’t get too worried about starting exactly where the picture says. The glue is stronger in some parts so just start wherever is easier and then work slowly and patiently around in the direction shown.
As this guide doesn’t cover replacing the adhesive strips, I found referring to the following was useful (noting that it’s not for the same model of iMac, so the modification they mention wasn’t necessary): Reemplazo de tiras adhesivas de la pantalla de iMac Intel 21.5"
This part of the exercise should be done with extreme patience. I took my sweet time with the opening tool, rolling it through the entire panel and enclosure gap over and over again, until I was very sure no parts were sticking together anymore. And when I thought I was I done, I decided to do it over again.
You can "warm up" the adhesive before try to cut it with the tool using a hair dryer. Heat the edges for about a minute, keep moving it so you don't cause stress in the glass. Also the above note.. use the tool and then the cards. Do not use a guitar pick or other objects as the thickness will cause you to break the front glass, which is a bonded part of the display (expensive).
Merci pour ce conseil
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Use la herramienta parecido a un cortador de pizza: gírelo a lo largo de la abertura para cortar el adhesivo de espuma por el centro.
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Mueva la herramienta hacia arriba a lo largo del lado izquierdo de la pantalla.
If re-opening a screen that was opened and re-attached using iFixit’s adhesive strips, I would strongly recommend heating it first with an iOpener, heat gun or hair dryer. 20 minutes after attaching with the iFixit adhesive I tried to open it again with the pizza slicer to fix something and cracked the screen on the left-hand side.
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Continúa por la parte superior de la pantalla.
In this step can I cut along the display without make any damage to the front camera?
Hi! Actually - there is no need to cut the tape around the camera area - there is no tape to cut at all! And so, the way go is easy - just pass 10 mm to the left and to the right from camera and start cutting!
P.S. Just did the whole procedure to replace a RAM and to add SSD on PSIe an hour ago! Seems to be different reading the instructions... you know - 2/10 and so on. But it's really not that hard, trust me. I'll give it 5/10.
P.P.S. By the way there is one trick to pass the difficult steps. Any action which requires pulling smth (motherboard, speaker, power supply unit) from the narrow crack (or should i say - slit?) at the bottom of your Imac is really not so easy.
And the trick is to first remove a thin metal stripe with some kind of insulation on it which held by 5 small (very small!!) screws at the bottom of your Imac. After you done it - it's easy to pull everything! Pay attention to the fact that one of this 5 screws at the center are more shortly than others.
If you're changing cracked EMC 2638 display to new assembly, there's two more steps:
Step 24: Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.
Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the display assembly.
Step 25: Use the tip of a spudger to unplug bracket of the thermal sensor small cable near display data cable.
Carefully remove scotch tape covering thermal sensor. Using iSesamo or flat tip of the spudger carefully peel the thermal sensor away.
omg - forgot to switch the termal sensor from the old display...
now fan runs like crazy...
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Finalice empujando la herramienta de apertura hacia la parte inferior del lado derecho de la pantalla.
Yes, do it many times to loosen the adhesive.
Would be good data to show the 3 areas (wifi antennas where the "tape" is larger and covers them. The rest of the "tape" is 1.4" and easy. Also after removing the display, be sure to remove the old "tape" from both the display and the rubber parts of the case. Use the spudger to start an end and it should pull off easily. Careful on the baackside of the display as you can scratch off the black paint/covering.
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Comenzando desde la esquina superior derecha del iMac, coloque una tarjeta de plástico entre la pantalla y el marco.
this step is extremely important NOT to stick in the cards too far….. doing so, you risk a 600 euro replacement as I experienced………
I drew a 3/8” line on my cards with a marker first.
I’m reading this on the EU store, please change all measurements to cm/mm.
@ifixit The next batch of cards you create should have a line printed on the card 3/8” in from the edges. Would make a nice reference.
Better to remove stand wedge at this point? Can’t see from pics
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Gire suavemente la tarjeta de plástico hacia los lados para crear un espacio entre la pantalla y el marco.
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Muévase despacio y tenga cuidado de no estresar demasiado el cristal de la pantalla; solo necesita hacer un espacio de aproximadamente 1/4 ".
This part must be done very carefully or you can damage the flat cable from display, despite it was under a iron cover.
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Deslice la tarjeta hacia el centro de la pantalla para cortar el resto del adhesivo a lo largo de la esquina superior derecha del iMac.
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Sostén la pantalla con una mano, mientras usas la otra para desconectar el cable de energía de la pantalla.
Can this cable be replaced? I am worried mine is damaged. I have no display after the screen fell and stressed the display flex cables following an SSD upgrade.
This step should be done with extreme caution and care, as this step 19 is not described in great detail (sorry, author).
The first (most outward) cable will slide out by gently pulling it by its tabs. The second (inner) cable is more tricky, as the locking lever must be moved backward first, before gently pulling backward on the cable connector. The angled tweezers are useful here, to help lift that locking lever, because fingers are too big for this.
I found the best way to unplug this display power cable was to use my right hand, and the fingernails of my index finger and thumb to grab the ends of the tabs on either side of the connector, squeeze, and pull the connector out gently.
i think the cable nearest the case edge is held in by friction and can be gently pulled, maybe with fingernails or a spudger. The next cable is held by a wire lever clip as described above it unlocks so the cable can be removed. These cables are also fiddly to re-insert, I didn't get one of them home and had no display after power-up, so at the end, don't re-seal the screen until tested.
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Continúa sosteniendo la pantalla con una mano, mientras muevas hacia arriba el soporte de metal en el cable de datos de la pantalla.
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Con cuidado tira el cable de datos de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
Cannot seem to find a replacement cable for this, as I suspect mine is damaged. Can’t even find a part number. Anyone know what it might be?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TTL...
That's the part I ordered for mine and it seems to work ok. I did make a point of contacting the seller and advising them of my requirement and they ensured I got the right part and it matches the description of the link. Bear in mind I bear no responsibility if yours does not work since I am just sharing what I did and what I ordered. Thanks.
I also need that cable.
It's a little difficult to tell... but looking at the connection to the logic board on the video data cable, are the pins faced up or down?
On the display, same question since it appears you have to "twist" the cable during the reconnection step.
For this particular cable, take a good look before pulling on anything. Plug is locked on its socket with a bracket. You can lift this bracket by holding the small, flat black plastic handle that is attached to it. If you're struggling to grab it, use the end of the pizza roller handle to lift it, or the tweezers. Cable then comes off by pulling parallel to the main board.
How can I tell if either of this cable is bad? My iMac display won't turn on after reconnecting it. I'm using an external display and everything is working except for the iMac display. If I go to settings - display the built-in display is recognize. But again nothing shows up in the screen - not even the apple logo when turning it on.
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Levanta la pantalla en una posición casi vertical.
The best way to remove the chin adhesive is to use the tabs at either end (there are two strips that run from each outside corner to near the centre). Carefully pull the tabs up and the strips should peel off.
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Agarre la pequeña pestaña en el final de uno de las tiras adhesivas de la pantalla del abajo y tire el adhesivo hacia el tope de la iMac para quitarlo
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Repita este paso con la otra tira adhesiva y retirelo.
At step 21-22, releasing the adhesive strips from the bottom of the display, I noticed a tab on the outer end of each strip. Pull the tab to remove the whole strip, no need to mess around with the plastic cards!
Instead of the plastic cards, use the flat end of a spudger. Use it as scraper. Be careful as there are antennas mounted on the inside edge of the frame on the right side (facing you), and the top right (facing you). The original adhesive strips are on those as well. - ECJ
A little bit of hot air (eg. hair dryer) will help soften the adhesive. Use a piece of cardboard or equivalent if you want to avoid blowing hot air towards the electronics.
Be careful to remove absolutely everything - any remainder will create a bump and prevent your screen from sticking back to the frame when reassembling.
A little bit of hot air (eg. hair dryer) will help soften the adhesive. Use a piece of cardboard or equivalent if you want to avoid blowing hot air towards the electronics.
Be careful to remove absolutely everything - any remainder will create a bump and prevent your screen from sticking back to the frame when reassembling.
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Levanta la pantalla hacia arriba del marco y quítala del iMac.
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Podría ser necesario levantarla lentamente de un lado para pelar el adhesivo restante.
Après l'étape 23, j'ai suivi les instructions de la vidéo intitulée: Upgrade RAM in a mid-2017 21-inch iMac without complete disassembly.
Lien: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_k9I7N9B...
J'ai pu upgrader la RAM en enlevant juste le ventilateur.
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Remueve los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 4 mm que aseguran los cuatro conectores de la antena a la tarjeta AirPort/Bluetooth.
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Con las pinzas apuntando hacia abajo, inserta las puntas a través de los agujeros de los tornillos en la tarjeta, al lado de los conectores de la antena.
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Usando tu dedo, presiona hacia abajo en el borde de la tarjeta para colocarla en paralelo a la placa lógica.
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Alinea la tarjeta con su espacio en la placa lógica, y presiona la tarjeta en su espacio hasta que los agujeros de los tornillos se alineen con los de la placa lógica.
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Para reensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue las instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para reensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue las instrucciones en orden inverso.
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3 comentarios
Thanks for the guide Asam!
Yes, I would like to know as well the exact model number for iMac 21.5 4K 2017? The other iMac guides sugged another module that may not be compatible with this model? The only bits that are readable are BCM?
Oh, I saw it - step 29, I must be blind ;) It’s BCM943602CDP, thanks!
I may have damaged the sockets for the antenna connectors (#1 and #3 reading from L -R) in the process of reassembling my late 2017 iMac after replacing my 8 GB RAM DIMMs (REMBER testing after a kernel panic failed, and OWC sent me new DIMMs, which pass REMBER testing.
However, now I cannot pair my BT mouse, or unlock the iMac with my Apple Watch, or pair my AirPods Pro reliably. Curiously, my Magic keyboard works just fine. When the AirPods Pro seem to pair, the music playback to them is awful (stuttering). I know that I couldn’t pop those two antenna connectors onto the little pins on the BT/Airport board the way they were before, but I don’t seem to have any network issues (SPEEDTEST results are similar to previous testing). I don’t know where to get an Airport/BT card or whether that really is my issue, but it certainly corresponds to making the repair. I did reset NVRAM and delete the BT p-list files; neither of those seemed to make any difference.
The wedge is an extremely tight fit for this model. I was worried that the amount of force needed to use it as shown might damage the stand, so I used it with the long side down instead. It worked fine that way and didn’t need anywhere near as much force to insert.
roberttrevellyan - Contestar
Here’s a good YouTube vid on upgrading the RAM: Can a Normal Person Upgrade the RAM in the 2017 21.5" iMac?
Dan - Contestar
Here are a couple tips from me:
1) Expose the adhesive to extreme temperatures. I did this by transporting my iMac in my car, screen-down on a piece of cardboard on a cold February morning (in Chicago). When I went to pick up the iMac, the screen practically fell off the chassis. I would have been distraught by this if I hadn’t already planned this replacement. So it was a happy accident.
2) Remember to expell the residual power from the power supply by pushing the power button while the iMac is unplugged. This does NOT guarantee it’s safe to touch, but when I accidentally brushed the solder and exposed capacitors, I didn’t get shocked.
jerrid_foiles - Contestar
Instead of using the wedge, I placed the iMac faced up with the top side (web cam) facing me while I ran the pizza roller around. It worked out great!
Sam Fung - Contestar
“All iMacs also come with a traditional hard drive” mine doesn’t!! it’s HDD bay is completely empty, no SATA cable or anything. I guess I’ll have to upgrade the PCIe SSD instead.
Chris Hughes - Contestar
There is no replacement glass for this model, it is part of the LCD and impossible to remove or replace- the entire LCD has to be replaced unfortunately if the glass is cracked or damaged. You will have to Google search for a replacement. Also be careful with some of the lock tight tork screws as I broke one of my screw mounts taking one out.
Phil Tesone - Contestar
I used this service wedge but also found it a very tight fit. The same stabilization can be achieved by using a big rolled up towel.
Ernst - Contestar
While this is a good instruction guide, I recommend to also look at OWC’s instruction video about drive installation, before starting the exercise. Those install videos are very detailed and useful.
Ernst - Contestar
Main advice: TAKE YOUR TIME with the pizza roller.
Make several passes, until you really feel like there's no more sticker in the way. Stay away from the camera though (approx. 1inch / 2.5cm on both sides). This will reduce the work left with the plastic card. Adhesive is really on the edge of the screen so there is absolutely no need to go any further than the recommended 1cm / 3/8inch depth.
Where are the sensitive parts?
Facing your iMac, imagine you're looking at a watch. There are antennas on 1, 2 and 4 o'clock. Do not insert any metal piece there (nor anywhere else, btw). Other than that AND the screen cables underneath the camera, not much danger.
Froggy Manny - Contestar