Introducción
Use this guide to replace a broken trackpad.
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Remove the following ten screws:
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Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws
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Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws
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Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws
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Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.
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Remove the lower case.
Bonjour, alors cela va dépendre du modèle de MacBook Pro Retina concerné. Par exemple, si vous avez un 13 pouces, allez consulter cette page MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Repair et sélectionnez-y votre modèle. Les Retina 15 pouces se trouvent ici MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Repair. Sinon cet outil https://fr.ifixit.com/info/ID-your-Mac (pour l’instant seulement disponible en anglais) vous aide à identifier quel modèle vous avez et vous redirige vers la page de votre appareil, où vous trouverez le tutoriel correspondant à votre Retina. Bonne réparation !
Merhaba, trackpad değişimi ve ayarlaması için tornavidaya ihtiyacım var, bu konuda yardımcı olabilir misiniz acaba? Ne tür bir tornavidaya ihtiyacım var ve nereden bulabilirim acaba?
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Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.
yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on
khull -
Sooo the track pad is under the battery...you kind of have to remove it to get to the track pad.
This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.
My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!
Did you properly ground yourself to the case before putting the spudger to the connector/logic board? Did you use a spudger or something else that is non conductive...or did you use a flat blade metal screw driver instead and compound your error by not grounding yourself before touching the logic board? All kinds of variables here but the bottom line is iFixit provided you a guide to fix your computer. Lots of others have followed this guide without trouble. Your battery issues are not their fault. They did say this guide was moderate difficulty...maybe it's just a little beyond your skill level. We should all know our limits!
Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...
Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.
Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery cable....no issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX Yosemite....next I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.
Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.
Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector
DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!
Switch off your Mac and continue without disconnecting the battery. Don't know how it will switch on by itself.
This comment made me think that disconnecting the battery was no point at all, because really - how would the computer be able to switch on by it self. So... I had my mac flipped around and was fiddling with the last part of the guide when I all of a sudden hear the start up sound! Don't know how and why it did. I turned it around with it guts open and guts hanging out. Screen was on. I forced it to shut down by keeping the power button down. Turned it back and first thing removed the battery cord.
Luckily the computer started up just like normal. But hearing that sound was just too scary.
BTW I had been cautious to de static myself multiple times.
wassberg -
Definitely do this step. It's an easy disconnect anyway and also easy to reconnect later.
I removed the battery cable for the repair. When I plugged in the MagSafe adapter after the repair, the Mac turned on automatically without pressing the power button and I was a bit worried, but after a restart everything worked fine again. I did have to reset date and time in Preferences. The battery was recognized OK.
Okey, I skipped this battery disconnection part. Did not do anything like this before in my life, changing the cable was super easy!
The official Apple guide to replacing the RAM says nothing about disconnecting the battery but it does recommend touching metal inside to discharge static. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201165
I always do this when working on MacBooks (over ten years) and it never caused an issue. Don’t worry about this step as removal of the battery connector is simple. This particular connector is pretty much goof-proof as it won’t break. I’m fairly aggressive and just pop it off whenever I’m working on the Macbook Pro.
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Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.
What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore
The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).
The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.
One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.
Great guides. Thanks!
Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.
I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.
That's a good tip
Anrothan -
One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)
does the battery connection need to be removed? I only ask as other videos etc have not shown this step.
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Remove the following two screws:
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One 5.6 mm Tri-point screw
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One 13 mm Tri-point screw
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I assume that REPLACING a new battery is the same steps but in reverse? Nothing special we need to look out for?
Also, please add some comments about watching out for STATIC ELECTRICITY. Other videos and websites make it seem frighteningly dangerous and recommend other tools to prevent static electricity discharge. If you could address this issue, I would greatly appreciate it.
These screws do absolutely NOT have the TRI-WING® recess. I find, the LHSTIX 3ULR MicroStix size 3ULR-0 driver fits perfectly.
My battery (original to my late 2011 MBP) straight up does not have screws.
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Carefully peel the battery warning label off the upper case between the battery and the optical drive.
Probably to help you remove it? Not sure, but I used it along with the clear tab to pull the battery out. Worked pretty good.
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Use the attached plastic pull tab to remove the battery from the upper case.
Hey there !
i replaced my old battery with the one I purchased from ifixit following the guidance. Niw I have the problem, that my macbookpro 13” late 2011 doesn’t boot anymore and the led of my plug just blinks orange rapidly. What happened. Can anybody think of smth, or have had similar experiences?
My replacement battery came with a clear protective film that should be removed before installation. Be sure not to overlook the film on the bottom of the battery as it covers only a portion of that side and might be easy to overlook.
Do not over-tighten the bolts holding the battery in place. One of the tabs on the original battery was broken, presumably due to over-tightening.
Is it possible to use the trackpad from MacBook Unibody Model A1278 in this macbook pro?
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Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry the trackpad connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Open your MacBook Pro and set it on a table as shown.
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While holding the edge of the trackpad closest to the logic board with one hand, remove the four 1.2 mm Phillips screws highlighted in red.
I ordered some tools from iFixit for replacement of the trackpad but the Phillips #00 Screwdriver named above is still too big for the (tiny) screws of the trackpad. Shouldn't that be a Philips #000?
A word of caution if you are replacing your trackpad due to a bulging battery. This guide assumes that the original mounting tabs are not damaged and it does not look like the iFixit trackpad replacement kit comes with new tabs. My MBP had a bulging battery, which pushed up on the bottom of my trackpad, deforming one of these tabs. Now that I have removed the battery, the trackpad still works, but it is not flush with the case and the physical clicks are not as responsive as I would like. Does iFixit sell just the replacement tabs?
Same here luckily the trackpad still works but the taps have deformed. Anyone find a place to pick up just those tabs? Edit: found them MacBook Pro Unibody (Mid 2009-Mid 2012) Trackpad Mounting Screws
iAndrewC -
Be careful with this step. The very tiny screws are very hard to remove with a #00 screwdriver. I tried with mine and I mashed the srews heads, it was then very very hard to remove it. Better to use a #000 screwdriver. If the heads are mashed like me, I suggest you use a 0.1 flat screwdriver, it worked well in my case.
I couldn't even begin to use the #000 as the edges were not deep or narrow enough for the condition of the screws from factory install. The .1 flat screwdriver worked like a charm though and didn't mess up the screws further at all. I was getting nervous that I'd need to get another screwdriver beyond what's in the iFixit toolkit, but this worked as a better solution.
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If necessary, carefully dislodge the edge of the trackpad closest to the keyboard from its recess in the upper case by pushing it away from the brackets attached to the upper case.
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Carefully push the trackpad connector and cable down through the slot cut into the upper case.
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It may be necessary to use a spudger to help get the trackpad connector past the edge of the logic board.
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Once the cable has been completely pulled through its slot in the upper case, pull the trackpad away from the outer edge of the upper case and remove it from the machine.
This article seems to be about REPLACING a trackpad. Why does the summary claim that no parts are needed?
If your replacement trackpad comes with the cable separated and loose, the connection to the trackpad needs to have a tab pressed down which keeps the connection snug. It won't work without it. It's a tab on the trackpad part of the connection. Tab might be the wrong word; the connection has to be in all the way, then clamp it closed with the tab... oops! LOL
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Next, reinstall the four 1.2 mm Phillips screws along the inner edge of the trackpad.
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Check the alignment of the trackpad on the keyboard side of the upper case. Once you have centered the trackpad in the upper case, tighten the four Phillips screws all the way.
My trackpad was driving me up the wall, bouncing all over the place. Ifixit Trackpad comes with extra screws, hinge and adjuster. You won't believe how tiny these screws are! If one falls in the carpet-it's GONE! Bless you Ifixit! To center when re-installing adjust by sliding a thin piece of paper (scotch tape?), under bottom of trackpad, let Trackpad rest on it's own weight and then tighten one top and bottom screw a little bit, and eyeball it, just the tiniest crack of daylight on each side. I strongly suggest the highest quality magnetic screwdriver you can find. The little torx screw disc is an adjuster. If too tight, trackpad won't 'click.' On a Mac, click is not really essential as long as tap and slide are working right. Needs a small amount of clearance. When properly installed you can 'feel' the click if it's right. Probably won't need to mess with it at all. Now my trackpad works like it should, I am a happy camper!
I replaced the trackpad with a new one: the arrow moves but was not possible to click. I putted back the old trackpad and it works with. The solution: the eleventh picture shown a gray Torx type screw to the left of the connector where there is the recess in the back of the mouse. This screw is used to increase or decrease the depth of clicks. in my case it was too screwed and it was as if I held continually pressed the truckpad: therefore, it was enough to loosen it. At this point I ask myself since in the old truckpad I had problems with the physical click, I probably would have been enough to adjust the screw.
Vielen Dank, dies hat mir sehr beholfen :-)
ifitit is once again amazing. My trackpad just stopped working on my four year old machine. Bought a new trackpad from iFitit, followed the guide and now I have a functional laptop again. One thing to note. 1.2mm is small very, very small. The screws for the trackpad *will* get lost if they fall of the table. Make sure that doesn't happen.
I was having trackpad issue on my 2010 machine, did the replacement from ifixit which arrived broken (bummer) but they replaced it no problems. It worked great for just under a year but now I'm having the same issues again of poor finger tacking, jumping, and lack of sensitivity. I've tried cleaning the whole unit, rebooting in safe mode, refreshing code, and anything else the web has provided. I'm starting to wonder if it's something else on my machine or if the trackpads just don't hold up well enough. Overall I'm super frustrated to have a newer pad crap out this early.
I don't have a magnetic head driver so I had a terrible time trying to get the screws in. I found getting the screw on the table Phillips side up, I pushed my finger tip into the head til it stuck and placed the screw into the thread that way. The screw stayed in long enough for me to tighten with the driver ! Oh, what a relief! I only lost one screw; thank god for replacement screws! Order your trackpad with screws! They fall and get lost easy! Now I'm happy! :)
Next time rub the tip of the screwdriver against a magnet about 10-20 times in the SAME direction (A fridge magnet works)
I installed the trackpad, but it was not behaving correctly. Took it apart again and reinstalled, using the 2 new foils that go under the trackpad keeper screws (my old ones were kind of mangled, probably from all the force I had to use on the old trackpad). I also made extra sure the trackpad was precisely lined up this time. Voila! A nice, sensitive new trackpad.
Thanks, iFixit!
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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8 Comentarios
These are just the steps to remove the battery. For the trackpad itself see the Early 2011 Trackpad guide.
any tips on adjustment of the height screw?
don't turn the screw too much, or you'll destroy your trackpad
Is it possible to use Trackpad for Retina instead of Non-Retina Trackpad?
I had a lot of trouble getting the new trackpad to work. The left side of the track pad (about 2cm) was responsive. The rest of the track pad was dead. I played with the torx screw to adjust the click pressure and it had no effect. I cleaned all the gunk out from around the perimeter of the trackpad when it was removed. I tested without the battery in place to ensure that battery pressure was not the problem.
The actual hardware remove, reinstall took about 15 minutes at most and was very straight forward.
The trouble shooting has been the tough part.
I replaced the track pad successfully, but it did not fix the problem I was having. When I want to drag and drop a file, I really have to push down on the track pad hard to hold on. Its a little bit better with the new pad, but I still have a hard time with the lower left corner of the track pad grabbing stuff. Anyone have any ideas of what the issue could be?
I am assuming it was the battery. Put in a new one and now no issues.
Easy to change the trackpad, but internal screen and keyboard and trackpad then no longer worked and has to use an external display and mouse and external keyboard. It worked at first, but upon restart it stopped working. Resetting SMC doesn’t help as keyboard is no longer responsive. Disabling the trackpad makes the internal screen work again. Will see if I can return the trackpad … it was better without one.
Does void the warranty?
jfondeur - Contestar
No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically: http://eshop.macsales.com/Search/display...
oakdragon12 - Contestar
How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?
gunes314 - Contestar
You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.
Marshall WahlstromHelgren -
Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?
Carlos Duarte do Nascimento - Contestar
Apple has meticulously balanced the MacBook's weight from left to right, and removing the optical drive may off-balance the Mac.
Seji the veggie -
What so you think that a removing the optical drive which weighs less than a AA battery will unbalance a MBP making it unusable? LOL!
Unless you use the MBP on a high wire (an even then I have my doubts) you'd never notice the weight difference.
pmhparis -
The issue is not one of weight but an issue with the systems cooling and an opening which objects could enter. For a few grams of weight I don’t think its worth it! A better solution would be to swap out the heaver HD for a much lighter SSD, and getting all of the performance benefits of the faster drive as well!
While you might not think it the optical drive also acts as a stiffener so there is less twist in the case. This is because of the size of the hole for the DVD/CD’s so taking it out weakens the case design.
Dan -
I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.
John Adam Wickliffe - Contestar
Hey guys,
this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!
I posted some pictures on your facebook page..
renatumb - Contestar
Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.
Robert Wacker - Contestar
Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.
kschmesk - Contestar
I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?
Alex - Contestar
The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch
. Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard
I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one
brian whittle - Contestar
Hello MacWorld,
Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!
wer 10/5/15
tayseer999 - Contestar
I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.
GotMac - Contestar
Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?
taylornya - Contestar
iFixit sells a kit: Macbook Pro Unibody Lower Case Screw Set
Darrell Johnson -
on my device the #00 screwdriver was a bit too small. a #0 was the perfect one
Maximilian Klotz - Contestar
I found with mine that the shouldered and un-shouldered screws were reversed (the three un-shouldered screws going where the orange colour indicates). Also, I found that the front four screws went in at an angle.
gilded yak - Contestar
Are you sure the short screws are different? The set sold here just says “Seven 3 mm Phillips #00 screws.”
Jack - Contestar
I have the same question. What is the difference between shouldered and not? So hard to see any difference…
Michael Wilkens -
I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?
rodrigosady - Contestar
I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.
Michael Wilkens -
I used 3 eggcups to hold the screws ;>) They are very fiddly and easy to drop on floor so keep the MacBook away from the edge of the surface you are using to avoid accidentally dropping a screw off the edge of a table, etc.
Stephen Smith - Contestar
A screw does not come out, how can I get it out? Many thanks in advance for your help
Wilder Torres - Contestar
Since you’ll be removing many screws it’s best to plan ahead. I found it especially helpful to have a small plastic tray with about a dozen separate compartments to hold screws. As I removed screws I kept them in one compartment for each item removed. For example: The lower case removal involves the removal of ten screws. I kept them all in the first tray compartment and set the lid aside. Also, I put a post-it note identifying this compartment as “Lower case” and noted that the top right-most screws were the long ones. I continued with this methodology as a removed the next item, and the next, etc. Disassembly notes included for each compartment. This helped SIGNIFICANTLY as I was able to reassemble the Macbook easily by simply going from one compartment to the next (in reverse order). This guide is rated “Difficult” which it really isn’t when you plan ahead in this way. It saves time in the long run.
airshack - Contestar
when putting the macbook pro back together, the middle screw on the right side (if the computer is upside down and you have the hinge furthest away from you) requires a bracket that was not included with my new upper case. i had to remove it from my old case and transfer it over - if you don’t do this, that screw will have nothing to attach to.
this was one of the many additional parts i needed to transfer from my old case to the new one that aren’t mentioned in this guide…i’m adding comments on each step to try to help others…i wish i had thought to take pictures.
Matt - Contestar
It seems to me the yellow and orange screws are the same
Luca Giancarli - Contestar
If you look closely, the four front screws (with the yellow circles) have a short unthreaded section under the head. The orange keyed screws are threaded all the way up.
Raymond Ives -
The screws used on all Retina models, as well as about everything Apple has made since the iPhone 4, uses “PENTALOBULAR” not Phillips screws. These look like a TORX driver, but it has 5 concave sides. I believe the size you want is a P4 or T4. (1.2mm).
Don Cely - Contestar
Two screw types:
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Shouldered Unshouldered
xxxxxxx……….xxxxxxx
..xxxxx……..….…….x…….
…..x……..…...……….x…….
…..x…………....……..x…….
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El Crashitan - Contestar
If you are following this guide to upgrade to a better drive and want to keep your system and data intact I highly recommend first following the guide to Clone an Existing Drive using the recommended free SuperDuper!. That process was a breeze and gives you confidence that the new drive will come up looking exactly the way it did when you started.
Patrick Langvardt - Contestar