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	The four basic safety rules:

-	*The iron is hot.
-
-	*The fumes are not fun. Work in a well ventilated area.
-
-	*Always wear safety goggles. Flying molten lead hurts.
-
-	*Wash those lead-y hands after soldering before touching your face or eating.
+	# The iron is hot.
+	# The fumes are not fun. Work in a well ventilated area, or use a fume extractor.
+	# Always wear safety goggles. Flying molten lead hurts.
+	# Wash those lead-y hands after soldering before touching your face or eating.

	== Equipment ==

-	Soldering only takes a little bit of basic equipment. You need a soldering iron to heat the solder, an iron stand to put the iron on so it doesn't burn the table, and solder.
+	Soldering only takes a little bit of basic equipment. You need a soldering iron to heat the solder, an iron stand to put the iron on so it doesn't burn the table, and solder. You can add [product\|IF317-053\|desoldering braid] to this to help if you blow it. A good light will also help you with your work.

	=== Soldering Iron ===

-	A soldering iron is a pen shaped tool with a fine tip that heats up. One of the ways soldering irons are measured by is wattage. For most basic soldering, a 25 to 50 Watt soldering iron will work without any problems. Most irons are simple single temperature models, but it is also possible to buy advanced solder stations where you can directly set the tip temperature with a dial or knob.
+	A soldering iron is a pen shaped tool with a fine tip that heats up. One of the ways soldering irons are measured by is wattage. For most basic soldering, a 25 to 50 Watt soldering iron will work without any problems. Most irons are simple single temperature models, but it is also possible to buy advanced solder stations where you can directly set the tip temperature with a dial or knob. If you have this feature set your temperature to 300°C for leaded solder, and 375°C for lead free solder.

	=== Iron Stand ===

-	A soldering iron stand is used to keep the hot tip of the soldering iron from burning the table or work surface when you set the iron down. They are often included with higher end soldering irons, but must be purchased separately with most budget models.
+	[image\|3417408\|align=center]
+
+	A soldering iron stand is used to keep the hot tip of the soldering iron from burning the table or work surface when you set the iron down. They are often included with higher end soldering irons, but must be purchased separately with most budget models. The one in the photo also incorporates a place to hold a damp sponge as well as a spot for brass wool for cleaning.

	=== Solder ===

-	There are many different kinds of solder. ~~The simplest~~ type of solder ~~is 60/40 flux cored solder~~. ~~This solder is made~~ of ~~60% tin and 40%~~ lead. This kind of solder is ~~inexpensive~~ and ~~easy to work with, however it does contain lead, which can be dangerous to work with if you don't follow proper safety procedures~~.
+	There are many [[Soldering Materials 101#Section_Solder\|different kinds of solder\|new_window=true]]. All solder for electrical/electronic use is [[Soldering Glossary of Terms#Section_Flux\|flux]] cored. Lead-free solder has become the go-to type as the toxicity of lead has been further recognized. It is harder to use than solder containing lead, and has a higher melting point. There are a number of alloys that are lead-free. This kind of solder is better for the environment and your health.

-	~~An alternative to~~ leaded solder is lead ~~free solder~~. This kind of solder is ~~more difficult~~ to work with ~~but is better~~ for ~~the environment~~.
+	A couple of common types of leaded solder are 63/37 and 60/40. This solder is made of tin and lead and both have a flux core. In the case of 63/37 it is 63%. tin and 37% lead. This kind of solder is inexpensive and easy to work with, however it does contain lead, which can be dangerous to work with if you don't follow proper safety procedures. Many professionals use it for repairs.

-	For someone just starting out and learning how to solder, using leaded solder ~~will~~ be ~~much easier~~.
+	For someone just starting out and learning how to solder, using leaded solder may be easier, but lead-free solders and fluxes have come a long way.

	== Soldering ==

-	Now we get to the fun part, actually soldering. The first thing to do is to place the part on the printed circuit board. Make sure that the board and part are clean. Any dirt or debris on the board or the lead will prevent the solder from sticking to everything properly. It can also be helpful to use a small piece of either masking tape or electrical tape to secure the part to the board. You don't need to do this all the time, but if you have trouble with any particular part staying in place, it can help quite a bit. Finally, double check that the part you are soldering is in the right place on your circuit board, and that it is in the right orientation. Some parts, like capacitors, diodes, transistors and integrated circuits will either not work, or be damaged if they aren't put in properly.
+	Now we get to the fun part, actually soldering. The first thing to do is to place the part on the printed circuit board. Make sure that the board and part are clean. Any dirt or debris on the board or the lead will prevent the solder from sticking to everything properly. It can also be helpful to use a small piece of either masking tape or electrical tape to secure the part to the board. You don't need to do this all the time, but if you have trouble with any particular part staying in place, it can help quite a bit. Finally, double check that the part you are soldering is in the right place on your circuit board, and that it is in the right orientation. Some parts, like capacitors, diodes, transistors and integrated circuits will either not work, or be damaged if they aren't put in properly. If you are just joining wire, you may find it helpful to have something to hold the joint. A device called a [product\|IF145-532\|soldering splint] is helpful for this.

-	Take the iron in one hand, and the solder in the other. When I solder, I hold the iron in my dominant hand, but you should try each way to see what feels best for you. Add a little bit of solder to the tip of the soldering iron. This is called 'tinning' the iron, and it helps protect the tip of the iron, as well as making it transfer heat better. Touch the iron to the joint that you're soldering, making sure to touch both the copper pad on the board as well as the lead on the part. The idea is to heat up every part of the connection to the same temperature so that the solder flows evenly into all the tiny spaces. After a one or two seconds, slowly poke the solder into the joint. If the joint is hot enough, the solder should melt and flow into the joint. You only want to add a few millimeters worth of solder, so don't go crazy. Once you add the solder, slowly pull the iron away from the joint, wipe the tip on a damp sponge, and place the soldering iron into its holder.
+	Take the iron in one hand, and the solder in the other. When I solder, I hold the iron in my dominant hand, but you should try each way to see what feels best for you. Add a little bit of solder to the tip of the soldering iron. This is called 'tinning' the iron, and it helps protect the tip of the iron, as well as making it transfer heat better. [br]
+	[br]
+	Touch the iron to the joint that you're soldering, making sure to touch both the copper pad on the board as well as the lead on the part. The idea is to heat up every part of the connection to the same temperature so that the solder flows evenly into all the tiny spaces. [br]
+	[br]
+	After a one or two seconds, slowly poke the solder into the joint. If the joint is hot enough, the solder should melt and flow into the joint. You only want to add a few millimeters worth of solder, so don't go crazy. Once you add the solder, pull it away, then slowly pull the iron away from the joint. You can then wipe the tip on a damp sponge or in some brass wool to clean it, add another bit of fresh solder and place the soldering iron into its holder.

-	A properly done solder joint should look like a cone, with the sides of the solder straight. If they curve in, then there isn't enough solder on the joint, and you should add a little bit more. If it bulges out there's a little too much solder. If this happens, the best thing to do is desolder the joint with desoldering braid and try again. The joint should also be shiny. If it isn't, then the joint didn't get hot enough when it was melted. The way to fix this problem is to reheat the joint and try again.
+	A properly made solder joint should look like a cone, with the sides of the solder straight. If they curve in a little, that's okay.
+
+	[image\|3417386\|align=center\|caption=Red Box is leaded solder, Orange Box lead-free]
+
+	If they are more flat to the board than a cone shape or you might have a cone, but there are craters then there isn't enough solder on the joint, and you should add a little bit more. If it bulges out there's a little too much solder. If this happens, the best thing to do is desolder the joint with desoldering braid and try again.
+
+	With leaded solder, the joint should also be shiny. If it isn't, then the joint didn't get hot enough when it was melted. The way to fix this problem is to reheat the joint and try again. You might want to add a little flux too if you have to do it again. With lead-free solder it might not be shiny.

	Once you have a joint that looks good, that's it! Keep on soldering all of the other parts onto the board and you're on your way to having a working electronics project.
+
+	== Additional Information ==
+
+	[[Soldering Glossary of Terms\|Soldering Glossary of Terms]]
+
+	[guide\|750\|How to Solder and Desolder Connections]
+
+	[[Soldering Iron Not Melting Solder\|Soldering Iron Not Melting Solder]]
+
+	[[Soldering Iron Not Heating\|Soldering Iron Not Heating]]
+
+	[[Soldering Materials 101\|Soldering Materials 101]]
+
+	[[Soldering Iron Tips\|Soldering Iron Tips]]
+
+	[[Soldering Best Practices\|Soldering Best Practices]]

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Resumen

Información Adicional

== Summary ==

Soldering is a method of connecting two pieces of metal together by melting another filler metal in between them. There are many kinds of soldering, but this article is designed to teach you the basics of electrical soldering.

== Safety Procedures ==

Soldering can be dangerous if you don't follow a few basic safety procedures. You are working with tools that are hot, and melted metals. You want to make sure you don't burn yourself. It's a good idea not to wear loose fitting clothing that could get in the way when you are working, as well as tie your hair back if it is long. It is also important to wash your hands after you do any soldering. Some solder contains lead, and you don't want to be eating that.

The four basic safety rules:

# The iron is hot.
# The fumes are not fun. Work in a well ventilated area, or use a fume extractor.
# Always wear safety goggles. Flying molten lead hurts.
# Wash those lead-y hands after soldering before touching your face or eating.

== Equipment ==

Soldering only takes a little bit of basic equipment. You need a soldering iron to heat the solder, an iron stand to put the iron on so it doesn't burn the table, and solder. You can add [product|IF317-053|desoldering braid] to this to help if you blow it. A good light will also help you with your work.

=== Soldering Iron ===

A soldering iron is a pen shaped tool with a fine tip that heats up. One of the ways soldering irons are measured by is wattage. For most basic soldering, a 25 to 50 Watt soldering iron will work without any problems. Most irons are simple single temperature models, but it is also possible to buy advanced solder stations where you can directly set the tip temperature with a dial or knob. If you have this feature set your temperature to 300°C for leaded solder, and 375°C for lead free solder.

=== Iron Stand ===

[image|3417408|align=center]

A soldering iron stand is used to keep the hot tip of the soldering iron from burning the table or work surface when you set the iron down. They are often included with higher end soldering irons, but must be purchased separately with most budget models. The one in the photo also incorporates a place to hold a damp sponge as well as a spot for brass wool for cleaning.

=== Solder ===

There are many [[Soldering Materials 101#Section_Solder|different kinds of solder|new_window=true]]. All solder for electrical/electronic use is [[Soldering Glossary of Terms#Section_Flux|flux]] cored.  Lead-free solder has become the go-to type as the toxicity of lead has been further recognized. It is harder to use than solder containing lead, and has a higher melting point. There are a number of alloys that are lead-free. This kind of solder is better for the environment and your health.

A couple of common types of leaded solder are 63/37 and 60/40. This solder is made of tin and lead and both have a flux core. In the case of 63/37 it is 63%. tin and 37% lead. This kind of solder is inexpensive and easy to work with, however it does contain lead, which can be dangerous to work with if you don't follow proper safety procedures. Many professionals use it for repairs.

For someone just starting out and learning how to solder, using leaded solder may be easier, but lead-free solders and fluxes have come a long way.

== Soldering ==

Now we get to the fun part, actually soldering. The first thing to do is to place the part on the printed circuit board. Make sure that the board and part are clean. Any dirt or debris on the board or the lead will prevent the solder from sticking to everything properly. It can also be helpful to use a small piece of either masking tape or electrical tape to secure the part to the board. You don't need to do this all the time, but if you have trouble with any particular part staying in place, it can help quite a bit. Finally, double check that the part you are soldering is in the right place on your circuit board, and that it is in the right orientation. Some parts, like capacitors, diodes, transistors and integrated circuits will either not work, or be damaged if they aren't put in properly. If you are just joining wire, you may find it helpful to have something to hold the joint. A device called a [product|IF145-532|soldering splint] is helpful for this.

Take the iron in one hand, and the solder in the other. When I solder, I hold the iron in my dominant hand, but you should try each way to see what feels best for you. Add a little bit of solder to the tip of the soldering iron. This is called 'tinning' the iron, and it helps protect the tip of the iron, as well as making it transfer heat better. [br]
[br]
Touch the iron to the joint that you're soldering, making sure to touch both the copper pad on the board as well as the lead on the part. The idea is to heat up every part of the connection to the same temperature so that the solder flows evenly into all the tiny spaces. [br]
[br]
After a one or two seconds, slowly poke the solder into the joint. If the joint is hot enough, the solder should melt and flow into the joint. You only want to add a few millimeters worth of solder, so don't go crazy. Once you add the solder, pull it away, then slowly pull the iron away from the joint. You can then wipe the tip on a damp sponge or in some brass wool to clean it, add another bit of fresh solder and place the soldering iron into its holder.

A properly made solder joint should look like a cone, with the sides of the solder straight. If they curve in a little, that's okay.

[image|3417386|align=center|caption=Red Box is leaded solder, Orange Box lead-free]

If they are more flat to the board than a cone shape or you might have a cone, but there are craters then there isn't enough solder on the joint, and you should add a little bit more. If it bulges out there's a little too much solder. If this happens, the best thing to do is desolder the joint with desoldering braid and try again.

With leaded solder, the joint should also be shiny. If it isn't, then the joint didn't get hot enough when it was melted. The way to fix this problem is to reheat the joint and try again. You might want to add a little flux too if you have to do it again. With lead-free solder it might not be shiny.

Once you have a joint that looks good, that's it! Keep on soldering all of the other parts onto the board and you're on your way to having a working electronics project.

== Additional Information ==

[[Soldering Glossary of Terms|Soldering Glossary of Terms]]

[guide|750|How to Solder and Desolder Connections]

[[Soldering Iron Not Melting Solder|Soldering Iron Not Melting Solder]]

[[Soldering Iron Not Heating|Soldering Iron Not Heating]]

[[Soldering Materials 101|Soldering Materials 101]]

[[Soldering Iron Tips|Soldering Iron Tips]]

[[Soldering Best Practices|Soldering Best Practices]]

Español

[title|Soldadura]

[summary][/summary]

== Resumen ==

La soldadura blanda es un método para conectar dos piezas de metal mediante la fusión de otro metal de aporte entre ellas. Hay muchos tipos de soldadura, pero este artículo está diseñado para enseñarte los conceptos básicos de la soldadura eléctrica.

== Procedimientos de seguridad ==

La soldadura puede ser peligrosa si no sigues algunos procedimientos básicos de seguridad. Estás trabajando con herramientas que están calientes y metales fundidos. Quieres asegurarte de no quemarte. Es una buena idea no usar ropa holgada que pueda estorbar cuando estás trabajando, así como atarte el cabello hacia atrás si es largo. También es importante lavarse las manos después de soldar. Algunas soldaduras contienen plomo, y no querrás comer eso.

Las cuatro reglas básicas de seguridad:

*La plancha está caliente.

* Los vapores no son divertidos. Trabaja en un área bien ventilada.

*Usa siempre gafas de seguridad. El plomo fundido que vuela duele.

*Lávate las manos con plomo después de soldar antes de tocarte la cara o comer.

== Equipo ==

Soldar solo requiere un poco de equipo básico. Necesitas un soldador para calentar la soldadura, un soporte de hierro para poner el hierro para que no queme la mesa y soldadura.

=== Soldador ===

Un soldador es una herramienta en forma de bolígrafo con una punta fina que se calienta. Una de las formas en que se miden los soldadores es la potencia. Para la mayoría de las soldaduras básicas, un soldador de 25 a 50 vatios funcionará sin problemas. La mayoría de las planchas son modelos simples de una sola temperatura, pero también es posible comprar estaciones de soldadura avanzadas donde puedes establecer directamente la temperatura de la punta con un dial o una perilla.

=== Soporte de hierro ===

Se usa un soporte para soldador para evitar que la punta caliente del soldador queme la mesa o la superficie de trabajo cuando colocas el soldador. A menudo se incluyen con los soldadores de gama alta, pero deben comprarse por separado con la mayoría de los modelos económicos.

=== Soldar ===

Hay muchos tipos diferentes de soldadura. El tipo más simple de soldadura es la soldadura con núcleo fundente 60/40. Esta soldadura está hecha de 60% de estaño y 40% de plomo. Este tipo de soldadura es económica y fácil de trabajar, sin embargo, contiene plomo, que puede ser peligroso si no sigues los procedimientos de seguridad adecuados.

Una alternativa a la soldadura con plomo es la soldadura sin plomo. Este tipo de soldadura es más difícil de trabajar pero es mejor para el medio ambiente.

Para alguien que acaba de empezar y aprender a soldar, usar soldadura con plomo será mucho más fácil.

== Soldadura ==

Ahora llegamos a la parte divertida, en realidad soldar. Lo primero que debe hacer es colocar la pieza en la placa de circuito impreso. Asegúrate de que la placa y la pieza estén limpias. Cualquier suciedad o residuos en la placa o en el cable impedirá que la soldadura se adhiera correctamente a todo. También puede ser útil usar un pequeño trozo de cinta adhesiva o cinta aislante para asegurar la pieza a la placa. No es necesario que hagas esto todo el tiempo, pero si tienes problemas para que una parte en particular permanezca en su lugar, puede ser de gran ayuda. Finalmente, verifica dos veces que la parte que estás soldando esté en el lugar correcto en tu placa de circuito y que esté en la orientación correcta. Algunas piezas, como condensadores, diodos, transistores y circuitos integrados, no funcionarán o se dañarán si no se colocan correctamente.

Toma el hierro en una mano y la soldadura en la otra. Cuando sueldo, sostengo el hierro en mi mano dominante, pero debes probar cada manera para ver qué te parece mejor. Agrega un poco de soldadura a la punta del soldador. Esto se llama "estañar" la plancha y ayuda a proteger la punta de la plancha, además de hacer que transfiera mejor el calor. Toca la unión que estás soldando con la plancha, asegurándote de tocar tanto la almohadilla de cobre de la placa como el plomo de la pieza. La idea es calentar cada parte de la conexión a la misma temperatura para que la soldadura fluya de manera uniforme en todos los espacios pequeños. Después de uno o dos segundos, introduzca lentamente la soldadura en la unión. Si la unión está lo suficientemente caliente, la soldadura debe derretirse y fluir hacia la unión. Solo deseas agregar unos pocos milímetros de soldadura, así que no te vuelvas loco. Una vez que agregues la soldadura, retira lentamente el soldador de la unión, limpia la punta con una esponja húmeda y coloca el soldador en su soporte.

Una junta de soldadura hecha correctamente debe verse como un cono, con los lados de la soldadura rectos. Si se curvan hacia adentro, entonces no hay suficiente soldadura en la unión y debes agregar un poco más. Si sobresale, hay demasiada soldadura. Si esto ocurre, lo mejor es desoldar la unión con trenza desoldadora y volver a intentarlo. La junta también debe ser brillante. Si no es así, entonces la unión no se calentó lo suficiente cuando se derritió. La forma de solucionar este problema es recalentar la articulación e intentarlo de nuevo.

Una vez que tengas una unión que se vea bien, ¡eso es todo! Sigue soldando todas las demás partes en la placa y estarás en camino de tener un proyecto de electrónica que funcione.