Ben

Hi guys! Got another Nintendo Switch here, no liquid damage as far as I can tell under microscope, battery connector measures...

On a USB Ammeter it displays 0.46A and constantly stays there. Opened up device and found battery was pretty much flat. Charg...

I know that you can reset it on a Mac with command option P R but does it get reset when the battery is unplugged, OS reinsta...

I’ll explain the history of this device. The customer dropped it off at our shop to check and see if the phone can be fixed. ...

I'm currently doing board level repair on it, replaced the transceiver for cellular service, fixed no service / service provi...

This phone has been previously liquid damaged and cleaned very well on the logic board. Now the leftover issue is: Service Pr...

Problem description: The phone is stuck in an apple logo boot loop with Blue screen of death cutting it off. I can break the ...

So I replaced the battery on the same iPhone 4 3 times due to battery swelling, first time was just the battery draining fast...

So the phone powers on with a DC bench power supply and shows that charging symbol when charger plugged in. Won't charge a fl...

Replaced Tristar, still same issue, inspected charging port pins, all 8 pins are present and not missing. Could this be cause...

That comes from the proximity sensor on the front camera ribbon cable assembly. You should place it back on there as it’s like a cover that goes on top of the sensor.

Are the PCIE power connectors connected from the power supply to the graphics card? If yes, try another x16 PCI-E slot if the motherboard has one otherwise I would say graphics card is no good.

Not all pads necessarily need to be soldered to test points. Some can have shorter running jumpers from the pad you can see the circuitry traces. The ground pads aren't all required they can be skipped if needed.

Bad battery, I recommend getting it replaced and see if that fixes the problem.

Check the original screen and compare to the replacement screen. There are usually spots that are covered with tape those spots are covered usually to avoid contact with metal surfaces. If the replacement screen does not have those spots cover use kapton tape (yellow tape) to seal those spots and hopefully it fixes the problem.

The problem with the smart cover locking when the cover is folded back to behind the iPad is caused by the missing hall sensor which is located on the original screen: Most replacement screens do not have this but this can be transferred via soldering to a replacement screen. There will be black tape which you can re-use so make sure to peel that off carefully while holding the sensor so that it doesn’t rip when peeling it off. The other sensor is located on the board but you need both in order for the smart cover to work properly. Also another thing to note do also add tape (you can reuse from old screen) for the touch ID cable when it is plugged in as it can disconnect itself (had it happen before) months after screen replacement.

Is this the model where it uses your finger touch to eject and power on the PS4? If yes the chances are the metal spring used to contact the eject button to the eject board is probably bent the wrong way. If it’s not broken you can just bend it back to it’s original position:

Touch ID or various components that are connected to the touch ID chip on the home button flex are damaged causing a short circuit and heating up. Looks like it’s going to have to have a replacement home button with no touch ID to fix that. That is usually pry damage on the home button flex.

I see a VPN device driver installed. Uninstalling the vpn software should fix the problem.

I would take it to a reputable repair shop to get the screen fixed if you want to avoid the chance of buying a screen and finding out the screen isn't causing the problem.

If you have isopropyl alcohol on hand. You can use it to help weaken the adhesive temporarily when lifting up the adhered home button.

Yep, clean the old adhesive and apply some Tesa 4695 or 61395.

I honestly do not understand why the back cover is removed from the mid frame, you can remove the mid frame silver plastic with the back cover anyway.

They can’t be both PMI8994 Power Management IC’s I’ve looked at them under an microscope and one is PMI8994 and the other is PM8994.

Check step 3 of this guide: Microsoft Surface Pro 5 Screen Replacement

Unfortunately the connector plugs are different and the cables go in different areas.

No. Different connectors.

I would call that a grounding plate as it looks like it provides grounding for the power button assembly to the board. Without ground the power button would not be able to send current pulses when you short the power button by pushing it from the power button itself > power button cable to logic board.

Not sure why they did this because they could of just provided ground on the cable itself. That's my understanding because that put should not of been designed like that.

The thickness / coverage of the area available to put the adhesive is plentiful which allows you to use more adhesive than you need. Anyway what I use is red double sided tape as it's adhesive strength is very good and the thickness is good to use in this case. It's called 'PET red double sided transparent tape'.

I think iFixit sells rolls of them which aren't really expensive at all.

Yeah don't listen to this comment. I replace Macbook Pro glass regularly and this is one of the worst ways to do it. I never replace glass without taking the screen assembly from the MacBook first.

The reason why I always separate the screen assembly from the MacBook is because it's just going to increase the difficulty of taking off the glass so much to the point that you regret that you wasted your time trying this and you could of done it in less time if you took the screen off from the MacBook.