Chris Stables

Making up some leads for the DCPS and would like to know does the MacBook determine what wattage magsafe it is using from...

I don’t know a lot about MacBook circuitry and I don’t advertise their repairs but there is one customer who does send...

Any idea where I could purchase a QFN8 to DIP8 Adapter that will fit a bios chip off the 820 00875 board. The only one I...

I got sent a mac which had the U5860 temp sensor torn off along with all the pads on the board. It would take ages to boot...

Would someone be able to tell me the orientation position of U5860 on the 820-00239 logic board. I can only make out a...

You have most likely nudged the component I have marked off the pads while replacing the battery. Unless you have the right tools and experience you will need to take it to a reputable repairer.

These symptoms usually lead into a rabbit hole. While it is searching/No service, input *#06# into the keypad and see if it brings up your IMEI number. If it doesn’t you have baseband problems. The other thing you can check is the bottom antenna it is located beside the charge port connector or is that the one you already replaced?

This is most likely a faulty Wi-Fi IC that is causing the problem. There are capacitors and other components in the IC that develop a partial short. It is a common problem on the iPhone 6s and is a fairly expensive repair compared to the cost of another phone. It might be time to upgrade.

You will need a programmer to remove the password from the bios chip. The easiest way for you would be to purchase a pre-programmed bios chip. You can purchase them for around $20 but you will need some soldering experience to replace it.

This is why I have stopped doing prior repair attempts. Assuming you know how to microsolder and the IC is going on correctly I would ·         Check R1103 and make sure it hasn’t been nudged off the back pad. The diode reading from C12 might seem okay even when R1103 has been nudged from the back pad but you will still have greyed out audio. This would be the most likely scenario. ·         Check the reset line at R3201 again check it hasn’t been nudged off the back pad. ·         Check the boost circuit. I usually give the IC a small nudge after it positions itself to make sure these pads are soldered correctly. I have also seen a faulty speaker amp to cause this but I would be looking at the prior repair attempt.

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If they are the blue pads you can leave them off as they are not connected to anything.  If they are other pads you will need to carefully scrape down to the trace and make a pad with some jumper wire.

You need to rule out faulty parts before going any further. ·         Battery. ·         Screen. ·         Dock connector. If it is still acting the same and no prior repair attempts have been carried out I would remove the shields and inspect all components under a microscope if you cannot see any liquid damage and all components look alright you will need to get Tristar changed and try an update or restore as this is most likely a data communication problem.

You have ruled out parts so this is most likely a board issue. You could try booting the phone with only the screen and dock connected and out of the housing just to make sure. If you wanted to continue with this repair you would need to know if it has a power problem or data problem. This will at least require a: ·         DCPS ·         Multimeter ·         Connection cables ·         Microscope ·         Rework station ·         Board view software and schematics ·         Preheater and stencils for disassembly and reassembly of the top and bottom board.

You should be able to build that pad up, if you cannot it looks like there is a veer beside it and you would just need to scrape the surface than run a jumper. I would put some leaded solder on the pad and use an iron or mini hot tweezers. Depending on what’s on the reverse side you might be able to put a bit of hot air as well as the iron if the solder will not flow.