Danno

Is it possible to swap the guts of an M1 Mini with the cool-colored case/body of a 2018 MacMini?

Is there a BlueTooth module available here for this model MBPro?

Am wondering if anyone has REPAIRED a crack in an iPT glass? There are repair products for windshields etc. and am wonderi...

Hi, can case parts for the G5 towers be replaced?? My optical drive door sticks/jams going down because the "cheese grater...

I have an HD pulled from a broken up MacBookAir. It uses a special ribbon cable to connect to the LB (?). What can i use...

Hi Guys, I know iFixit sells nice tools for this—and i have used them!— but i have had a real problem opening some of...

By examining the underside of the key cap—assuming it is not damaged*— you should be able to tell which side would be inserted into the space first, then the last movement is just to press down to “snap’ into place. Usually one end slides in place first “down and to the left”. If it looks damaged on underside, you may need a replacement. *If you can’t tell if it’s damaged, pop off another one and check it for structure.

If you have popped off the key cap and cleaned in there., and then tried to simply press on the silicone bump and you still get no response, there is no fix…the circuit has most likely “died”.

Spencer, What was the alcohol percentage of the kind you used? Some is mostly water. Did you removed the LB completely, or just washed/dried what you could see with the bottom off?? Liquid damage is most often immediate and progressive. You should get you laptop to a full service shop that can provide full testing and diagnostics. Troubleshooting this type of issue from liquid damage—on your own —will be expensive and time consuming, at best. That said, try the least expensive part first.

This may been a power issue. The fall might have damaged the DC-IN board/connection. Battery could be dead. Unit may not be getting power. Try another known-good AC adapter and see if it will then boot. (it should boot up even without a battery in/connected). If no boot then, you have to see if you can get another charged battery to test the main board. Unless you test as described above, you will not know if it is just a power issue.

Have you checked this: https://support.apple.com/keyboard-service-program-for-mac-notebooks

MBAir or MBPro 15…either one should work when connected to power via AC adapter even WITHOUT a battery installed! If you cannot boot the laptop without the battery in place, you need to try another known-good AC adapter…to be sure of that. If still no start up, then—assuming the main/logic board (MLB) is OK—you may not be getting power to the MLB.

Jessica, Have seen this behaviour on an iMac with a Mojave installation twice on same machine…it simply would not run under 10.14!! It would upgrade/install just fine but just hang on restart/boot as you describe. You might try to install High Sierra and see how that runs. Good luck.

Any updates or changes to the advice or the "can't do-s" here in May of 2018? (Am looking to swap out the HDD part of 2014 MacMini, so am seeking info.)

What do you see when you start-up while holding DOWN the "option" key? Update (05/01/2017): Sounds like you have an "open firmware" password. Read this... http://osxdaily.com/2015/01/28/forgot-mac-firmware-password-what-now/ ....it may help.

Had 24" iMac that exhibited the same symptoms. Diagnosed with bad logic board by respectable shop.

I absolutely “ditto” this! I simply removed the upper 2 screws securing the logic board and carefully wedged something underneath its edge to make a bit more room. I, too, was able to remove and replace RAM by removing only those screws and the fan. Getting the RAM out is fairly easy. Replacing the module closet to the board—-the first one—-is really easy. It’s the 2nd module that will try your patience. My fingers are blunt and “fat, so I actually taped the RAM chip to my fingertip and then used a bent wire (not bare metal wire) to maneuver the chip into its slot. To do all that took less time and anxiety than removing all required with the full-step operation.

Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out

Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out.

Mine has these cables exactly opposite what is shown here. (?)

Step #16 is kinda confusing on the last paragraph. Can anyone clarify.? Thanks.