Matt, Since the power button is connected to the keyboard, you may have not installed it correctly. It sounds like you may be shorting out the button, or its getting pressed down, but then not coming back to the up position. I would look at take the MBP apart and making sure the button is positioned and installed correctly.

Its not. It is a separate piece that gets transferred from the original to the new glass when replacing the digitizer. If you have lost the bracket, it would NORMALLY be attached to the OLD glass. It is a large black metal bracket, with 2 copper contact points. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-HOME-BUTTON-INNER-5-SET-SPRING-METAL-MOUNT-BRACKET-FOR-IPAD-2-H161-/160927683034?pt=Other_Tablet_eReader_Ac... This is an example of what you need to purchase in order to complete your ipad. Good luck

You need to check your internet connection, and your NAT value.

Most likely you are going to need to remove the glass in full. I say this because if you pulled on the top corner of the glass, you most likely removed a connection near the top center next to the camera. As for the glass sitting exactly the way it was before, good luck =(. Apple uses the silliest ways to keep their glass down, and this double sticky tape is no different. Once its been pulled up, the tape loses its stickiness and requires new adhesive. That being said you could try to Super Glue it, just be careful not to leak any inside the device. I recommend using a Gel based glue. Reemplazo de panel frontal de iPod Touch 4ta Generacion

Also, this site works EXTREMELY well for specs on all Macs and iDevices. http://everymac.com/ultimate-mac-lookup/?search_keywords= You can look up each Mac, down to serial number and then open a large list of specs. For your iMac EMC2133 http://everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/s...-core-2-duo-2.0-20-inch-aluminum-specs.html Scroll down a bit and you will find this info: RAM Type: PC2-5300 DDR2 Min. RAM Speed: 667 MHz Details: Supports 667 MHz PC2-5300 DDR2 SDRAM (200-pin SO-DIMM). Standard RAM: 1 GB Maximum RAM: 6 GB* Details: 1 GB of RAM is installed as a single SO-DIMM module. *Apple officially supports 4 GB of RAM, but third-parties have been able to upgrade the system to 6 GB of RAM using one 2 GB and one 4 GB memory module. In the US (and many other countries), site sponsor Other World Computing sells memory -- as well as other upgrades -- for this iMac. In Canada, site sponsor The Mac Market sells memory and other upgrades for this iMac. In Australia, site sponsor RamCity sells memory and other...

Do you have a Windows 7 Installation Disk? If you do not this is going to be a difficult fix. What you need to do: 1) Boot using a Windows 7 Installation Disk (If you need help with that, let me know) 2) Right after the BIOS Splash screen, start hitting "F8" repeatedly... like a lot. 3) You will be prompted to a menu, choose "Repair your Computer" 4) If it asks for which installation choose, Windows 7 5) After the automatic System Repair is finished, it will ask you what to do next. 6) Choose "View Advanced Diagnostic Tools" (Or something like that, I am doing this from memory lol) 7) In the next menu, choose Command Prompt. 8) Once there you need to type this exactly, without quotations, also each "_" represents a space. - "sfc_/scannow_/offbootdir=C:\_/offwindir=C:\windows" This scan may take quite awhile. What it does is scan all of your essential windows files and components, and will automatically repair them. You will get a message at the end telling you if it made a repair, or if it did not find...

There is a couple different things you can try from here. First lets do the easy one; Hold down the power button and the home button at the same time while the iPad is on. Allow it to reset and you will see an apple appear as though it has restarted. Release the buttons and hopefully this will fix your display problems. Second: Unfortunately you may have to open your iPad if the first fix did not work. Carefully re-open the ipad and ensure that all display cables are seated properly and are not being pinched or coming loose when reattaching the glass. Repeat fix one. I know this is a pain, but if the first and second fixes dont work, we will go on to fix 3. Third: If none of the above helps, its time to replace your display. =( Good luck! Nate

Probably overheating. Buy a can of compressed air, and give it a good dusting. Also ensure that it is an open area so that it may breathe, also ensure the power supply is able to breathe as well. I would also blow out the power supply as well. If you provide more detail I can help you further; What type of xbox? Are any lights active when it shuts down? (Power supply light, red ring, etc) How often does this happen? Good luck! Nate

http://esupport.sony.com/US/p/model-home.pl?mdl=DSCP10&template_id=1&region_... This SHOULD take you to the correct driver + software download page. Choose your operating system and download! Good luck!

I would pull the unit apart and look at the l/O board and check it for bad components. Most likely you fried the l/O board and not the motherboard. Buy a replacement l/O and use a different MagSafe!!