Timothy McEvoy

On my MacBook, the power button was broken and I couldn't turn it on so I tried to jumpstart it by connecting the power...

The battery may no longer be secured to the logic board, before replacing the battery try to open the device and fasten the power connector first. If its loose light movement, or just sitting over time could cause it to power off. BTW coconut battery is usually correct, apps on iPad usually get it wrong.

If you did it yourself then probably not as the adhesive is probably not as strong as it was at release. DO NOT trust it in the water. Its still risky even if apple did the repair as they will not replace any device for water damage even if it is within warranty and you kept the phone with in the water resistance limits. Also its water resistant not waterproof.

It could just be an alignment issue, is the metal part of the home button bracket (which is the contact for the button) aligned with the center receiver of the home button?

Its most likely that the connector is incorrectly attached. There is a 99% chance of that being the issue. 1% chance that you have a bad part. It is most likely that you incorrectly plugged something in on the inside.

They are not interchangeable. The u is for T-Mobile only while the u1 is unlocked for all carriers. Changing them would not work on a non T-Mobile network. To get even more specific it will only work on T-Mobile within the US. Changing the u to the u1 should work fine however

It may be that you forgot to plug back in a component such as a separate GPU so the system is running off of a weaker GPU that comes standard soldered to the motherboard. You may have also forgotten to plug in a fan so the CPU is throttling itself to be slower since its not getting the cooling it got before. Look at all components again and make sure that everything that should be attached, is attached/plugged in.

Review this and see if you can solve it with what they talk about: https://www.macworld.co.uk/how-to/iphone/fix-frozen-iphone-screen-3626629/ Otherwise try taking the display off and cleaning the glass on the inside. If that does nothing then yes the digitizer is the part that does that, so that would need to be replaced.

Here you go: https://www.walmart.com/ip/USB-3-0-to-SATA-Adapter-Cable-for-2-5-SSD-HDD-Drives-External-Converter-Cable/172562027?wmlspartner=wlpa&selecte...-4578984901755857&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&%20wl10=...

I am pretty sure the software wouldn’t work with it as there are specific drivers for computers built to work in certain hardware. There are always differences in different pieces of hardware that cause it to run differently. You could try it though I doubt it would work. It definitely will not look as good as it did before.

You need to get a new logic board. That’s not safe for you or the phone, the thermal paste that was there is now exposed and the processor can no longer connecting to any cooling device. The device is going to overheat and break itself or worse.

The heat sink, is secured with copious amounts of extremely sticky glue.

They used the iOpener to heat up the screen first and placed it directly on the device for those who did not pick up on it.

The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.